Very helpful to we two novices trying to build a very, very small board and batten shed. My grandfather built a board and batten addition to our cabin in the woods in the 1940's all with only hand tools. Board and batten has always been a favorite style for me.
Great video. Love your attitude ... my father-in-law and I have been working on my barn here in Western, NY and have repeatedly joked ..when we starting getting too uptight & serious .. "Remember, it's just a barn." Getting after the windows, thanks to your video, tomorrow! Warm regards.
I am building a B&B sided shed with reclaimed leaded glass windows and doors...I was scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to trim....your video was exactly what I needed for the rectangular windows. Now, I have to figure out how to trim the round topped door I am also installing. Thanks for sharing
Man I am at this point in building my workshop and this is exactly what I am looking for, man thanks so very much, very helpful, have a good one bud. Put a smile on my face. Thanks.
I used this technique on my mini pole barn and Man! did they come out fantastic. Thanks so much for the easy explanation and detailed video. I have installed my double sliding doors but need advise on how the guide them. Can you help with that?
I have watched this now about four times,I wish I could work with ease that you do.you must really know your trade.By the way I copied your windows for the shed I made.Thanks for taking the time to show how to do this,made my life easier :-)
TOP AND BOTTOM DRIPEDGE AND SILL NEED TO GO BEHIND SIDING OR WATER WILL RUN INTO BUILDING CAUSING ROT. FLASHING IS BEST. CAULKING DOESN'T LAST. I DON'T CARE WHAT YOU USE. LOOKS GOOD. NICE JOB!
You are absolutely correct. ..I see this way too often. If wood does not have a properly installed mechanical flashing it then becomes subject to costly repairs down the road...
Looks good. Here (in New Zealand) we would add metal flashings under the timber trim. Maybe your rainfall is lower where you are. Thanks for the video.
I'm sure he wasnt QUITE finished at point of video. One of those things you notice as it starts to rain like "Doooh! Eavestroughing is last even for a shed. Though what he had was adequate since that was what board&Batton are for : slough off the water from heavy rains.
Yeah for us Kiwis to get resource consent it would have to be treated, caulked up, paper underneath, and basically built the same as a house :/ pity cause I really like the simplicity of this method!
Great video! Doing a DIY board and batten project in the Rockies and appreciate this content. Question @BigJoe, what do you use for nails on siding and window trim?
I appreciate the kind words thanks for watching. we used ring shank siding nails for both. in some cases we would use a hot dipped galvanized finish hand nail.
In other words you mount the window on the inside instead of the outside of the house, interesting method, i would imagen it easy to replace the window if its on the inside if the house is 2 stories, only issues with this is you would lose the sill on the interior if you wantes a nice big sill on the i side and possibly birds making a nice nest . Other than that its a cool idea and i really like the top trim with the angle so the water slopes, even if the window is mounted on the outside with the sill inside that ripped trim on the top would add a nice touch
correct the windows would be installed on the inside of the barn. this a crude build not meant for houses. not saying it cant be used in a house but other steps should be taken for further weather proofing if this is used for a house. nothing is "airtight" on this build keep in mind.
+Jason Williams Thank You! We used 2" ring shank nails. Depending on the wood and location the wood will shrink slightly and once that happens sealing/painting is recommended.
we used window sashes. it's a wooden frame with 1,2,4 to 8 plates of glass divided by thin strips of wood. attached with small hinges and a swivel lock from the inside to keep them closed, against the "window stops" shown in the video.
the design in the video did not have windows with casing or a sill. the barn framing and outside trim acted as the windows inside, jamb frame/casing, and sill.
Joe..I'm over in saranac getting ready for the same..I've been a carpenter for 30yr and have done redwood and cedar work..but never rough pine and batten. I have a few questions perhaps you could answer.. 1) fasteners? I would assume that a 2 1/4" ring or screw shank galvanized plastic collated coil nails would be perfect..or screws.. What do you use?. 2) fastener pattern? How is board and batten siding properly fasten so it can move and not crack so much (What I have seen is nailing in the center of the 1x12 only. 1nail every 16-24" in the center of a 1x12..this supposed to let the boards expand and contract cup and lay back down all with seasonal change. The 1x2 has about a 1/4" gap between boards. The battens are fastened right bown the center only and the fasteners go through the batten into the 1x12 gap and into the framing or wall sheathing.. All board are cut with a reverse 45° bevel (back cut) at the foundation to promote water shed..this I'm not so sure about..in fact I'm not sure about any of what I said..that is why I'm asking..it all makes perfect sense in the faster placement as I described above..but following the above method what will it look like in years to come..like the peeling bark of a tree..or like a solid tight siding job.. I love to learn new carpentry techniques hell that's the only fun left in it for me..and I like to constantly tighten up my carpentry game..that's what makes me better then the next guy..right..carpenter ego..gotta love it..hahaha.... Ok..it appears to me you have installed miles of this siding and I'm looking for a video of how to properly nail this shit.. Thanks brother I look forward to any tips you may be (willing) to share..
We used a 2-1/4 - 2-1/2 ring shank coated siding nail nailed where there was framing to nail to since its a barn we don't have conventional framing. we would put in blocking where needed and nail as shown on some of the video 1/2 - 3/4 from the edge where needed then the batten is nailed the same way 1/2 - 3/4 from the edge with an even pattern that is pleasing to the eye and that's about it we don't put much thought into it when doing it we just do it. I hope that helps and Good luck on your adventures.
Do you have a video on the siding installation? Or a suggested video? My wife wants a reverse board and batten siding on the little wood shop I'm building. I, of course, would rather do the simplest of the two. I just want to know the correct way to trim it out for the best weather protection.
+John Bergstrom It's always tricky getting the old look but still have a good weather tight finish. If you already have the windows I would frame install and trim them out first possibly?? and then side to them.
very cool, very informative. Thanks for sharing!! I'm going to be finishing an existing post/beam shed that is in pretty sorry shape and this video will definitely help! do you have any experience or suggestions with board on board roofing? (similar to board and batten siding..but on the roof) (I'm in Estonia, in the middle of nowhere)
Thanks! Hope all goes well.. If you can find cedar shakes id try and do that first. but if not I do what I have to do to get it done. I'd be worried about water seeping in on the sides of the boards in a roof application. If the top board locks into a groove on the two bottom boards then maybe it would be safe to say it could work effectively. with a little bit of thought and some ingenuity, anything is possible.
I'm in Estonia and they use this roof style a lot. heart wood up they say here. We found am alternative material so we're thinking we'll salvage the good pieces from the old roof for the siding. thanks again!!
we installed repurposed window sashes on the inside with hinges that allowed the window to open into the building for air circulation. it was a very simple design to help keep water out but still allow some light. since the barn was not being heated at the time.
Nothing... since none of the barn is sealed and this is a rough cut barn simply nothing is stopping the water from seeping in many places since it's not sealed there is plenty of air space to dry out. if this barn was in a rain forest a much wetter setting maybe we would use different practices. since this is not a house with heat then lots of different ways to do things. It's just a barn. barns have stood for hundreds of years and built in the same way.
How many barns have you built? How many barns are still standing that have never seen caulk that don't leak? That's why we don't do it, It's not needed.
Sandra Nelson $30,000-$100,000?? The barn in the video is over 150 years old. The Restoration of the barn was $10's of thousands including but not limited to, new roof framing as needed, New roofing on whole barn and entire new roof on back part, New wall framing as needed along with the new board & batten rough cut siding. A good rule of thumb if you are planing a build. Price the materials then x (times) that by 2 for labor that equals the total cost of the job give or take a few. So if materials cost $15,000 expect the job in total to cost $30,000. That's how I would do quick rough estimate.
I've been in and rebuilt a few barns that stood and still stand for over 200 years... Barns don't have caulking. It's still a dirt floor barn. Barns and a lot of old structures of the kind need to breathe. That structure is far from air tight.
So on a house you would have tackled this in a whole different way, flashed the boards onto the top piece of trim. Board and bat is tricky to seal on a house, barns are a completely different animal.
SmokedOutTutorials ?? Not sure?? Some parts are slowed down or even sped up. Most of the video is normal speed as far as I can see, bud. Possibly check your settings on the bottom of the video?
Great video, thanks!
Very helpful to we two novices trying to build a very, very small board and batten shed. My grandfather built a board and batten addition to our cabin in the woods in the 1940's all with only hand tools. Board and batten has always been a favorite style for me.
Great work! Great craftsmanship! Thank you for sharing!
Perfect example of a great how to video!! No muss no fuss and not a lot of needless talking. Thanks so much!!
Yes, excessive yapping and annoying musical background are the worst and most common video-killers.
OUTSTANDING work young man!!! Thanks for showing us how to get it done right!!! Cheers
You have some mad skills. Very impressive workmanship.
Great video. Love your attitude ... my father-in-law and I have been working on my barn here in Western, NY and have repeatedly joked ..when we starting getting too uptight & serious .. "Remember, it's just a barn." Getting after the windows, thanks to your video, tomorrow! Warm regards.
I am building a B&B sided shed with reclaimed leaded glass windows and doors...I was scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to trim....your video was exactly what I needed for the rectangular windows. Now, I have to figure out how to trim the round topped door I am also installing. Thanks for sharing
Man I am at this point in building my workshop and this is exactly what I am looking for, man thanks so very much, very helpful, have a good one bud. Put a smile on my face. Thanks.
This is a great example of what I'm looking to do. I've watched many videos and this one is my favourite. Thanks so much
You had me at handsaw dude! Thank you.
I used this technique on my mini pole barn and Man! did they come out fantastic. Thanks so much for the easy explanation and detailed video. I have installed my double sliding doors but need advise on how the guide them. Can you help with that?
This is great!
Formidable !
I have watched this now about four times,I wish I could work with ease that you do.you must really know your trade.By the way I copied your windows for the shed I made.Thanks for taking the time to show how to do this,made my life easier :-)
Happy to share. It's nice to see once finished for sure but lots of work to get to that point. Thanks for the kind words.
This is very useful stuff. Thank you very much for sharing.
Great video man! Thanks 🙏
that's awesome workmanship Big Joe looks great
+niterbum Thank You niterbum Much appreciated.
Looks great, Joe. Pretty cool ! Thumbs up !
EhlersTV Cheers!
Nice! Thanks for posting!
Great work...thanks for taking your time out to share this us.
Thank You! Happy to share when able.
looks great
TOP AND BOTTOM DRIPEDGE AND SILL NEED TO GO BEHIND SIDING OR WATER WILL RUN INTO BUILDING CAUSING ROT. FLASHING IS BEST. CAULKING DOESN'T LAST. I DON'T CARE WHAT YOU USE. LOOKS GOOD. NICE JOB!
You are absolutely correct. ..I see this way too often. If wood does not have a properly installed mechanical flashing it then becomes subject to costly repairs down the road...
It’s a barn... notice there isn’t even windows?
Looks good. Here (in New Zealand) we would add metal flashings under the timber trim. Maybe your rainfall is lower where you are. Thanks for the video.
I'm sure he wasnt QUITE finished at point of video. One of those things you notice as it starts to rain like "Doooh! Eavestroughing is last even for a shed. Though what he had was adequate since that was what board&Batton are for : slough off the water from heavy rains.
Yeah for us Kiwis to get resource consent it would have to be treated, caulked up, paper underneath, and basically built the same as a house :/ pity cause I really like the simplicity of this method!
joe: thank you. doing this on my stamford vt barn this summer. well done
Thanks Joe, very well done and I will use on my next project... Subscribed!!!
Right on! Happy to Share and hope it helps. Cheers!
Looks great!
Great job
This is exactly what I was looking for. At the end you should have wrote "Clad to share" lol.
Have written!
just subscribed. I bought a bundle of cull lumber from my saw mill. love this idea. I am going to do this for sure!
Thank you!
Great video. Annnnnd....great beard!!!!!!
hey tanx for the tips .
Is it ok to use cdx sheathing for board and batten siding if you caulk and paint it?
Great video! Doing a DIY board and batten project in the Rockies and appreciate this content. Question @BigJoe, what do you use for nails on siding and window trim?
I appreciate the kind words thanks for watching. we used ring shank siding nails for both. in some cases we would use a hot dipped galvanized finish hand nail.
Sweeeet beard man!
very good info! What type of wood is this? Thanks
In other words you mount the window on the inside instead of the outside of the house, interesting method, i would imagen it easy to replace the window if its on the inside if the house is 2 stories, only issues with this is you would lose the sill on the interior if you wantes a nice big sill on the i side and possibly birds making a nice nest . Other than that its a cool idea and i really like the top trim with the angle so the water slopes, even if the window is mounted on the outside with the sill inside that ripped trim on the top would add a nice touch
correct the windows would be installed on the inside of the barn. this a crude build not meant for houses. not saying it cant be used in a house but other steps should be taken for further weather proofing if this is used for a house. nothing is "airtight" on this build keep in mind.
Shaw festival
I want to see the cured product, good work - straight cuts.
I love you man!
Thanks Big Joe, very helpful. What kind of nail are you using in your nailgun? Will the joints be caulked or is it necessary? Nice video.
+Jason Williams Thank You! We used 2" ring shank nails. Depending on the wood and location the wood will shrink slightly and once that happens sealing/painting is recommended.
Wondering how inserting a window without a frame would go on green board and batten?
I think I mean just a storm window.
we used window sashes. it's a wooden frame with 1,2,4 to 8 plates of glass divided by thin strips of wood. attached with small hinges and a swivel lock from the inside to keep them closed, against the "window stops" shown in the video.
the design in the video did not have windows with casing or a sill. the barn framing and outside trim acted as the windows inside, jamb frame/casing, and sill.
@@BigJoeKasulischannel I don't understand what this means exactly but I'm going to Google some things and look into it.
Joe..I'm over in saranac getting ready for the same..I've been a carpenter for 30yr and have done redwood and cedar work..but never rough pine and batten.
I have a few questions perhaps you could answer..
1) fasteners? I would assume that a 2 1/4" ring or screw shank galvanized plastic collated coil nails would be perfect..or screws..
What do you use?.
2) fastener pattern? How is board and batten siding properly fasten so it can move and not crack so much
(What I have seen is nailing in the center of the 1x12 only. 1nail every 16-24" in the center of a 1x12..this supposed to let the boards expand and contract cup and lay back down all with seasonal change.
The 1x2 has about a 1/4" gap between boards. The battens are fastened right bown the center only and the fasteners go through the batten into the 1x12 gap and into the framing or wall sheathing..
All board are cut with a reverse 45° bevel (back cut) at the foundation to promote water shed..this I'm not so sure about..in fact I'm not sure about any of what I said..that is why I'm asking..it all makes perfect sense in the faster placement as I described above..but following the above method what will it look like in years to come..like the peeling bark of a tree..or like a solid tight siding job..
I love to learn new carpentry techniques hell that's the only fun left in it for me..and I like to constantly tighten up my carpentry game..that's what makes me better then the next guy..right..carpenter ego..gotta love it..hahaha....
Ok..it appears to me you have installed miles of this siding and I'm looking for a video of how to properly nail this shit..
Thanks brother I look forward to any tips you may be (willing) to share..
We used a 2-1/4 - 2-1/2 ring shank coated siding nail nailed where there was framing to nail to since its a barn we don't have conventional framing. we would put in blocking where needed and nail as shown on some of the video 1/2 - 3/4 from the edge where needed then the batten is nailed the same way 1/2 - 3/4 from the edge with an even pattern that is pleasing to the eye and that's about it we don't put much thought into it when doing it we just do it. I hope that helps and Good luck on your adventures.
@@BigJoeKasulischannel so the 1x12 edge nail 1x12 fasteners are covered by the batten corret..thanks you for your reply
@@bobcat9314 yup in most cases you shouldn't see the nails in the 1x12 when finished
Do you have a video on the siding installation? Or a suggested video? My wife wants a reverse board and batten siding on the little wood shop I'm building. I, of course, would rather do the simplest of the two. I just want to know the correct way to trim it out for the best weather protection.
+John Bergstrom It's always tricky getting the old look but still have a good weather tight finish. If you already have the windows I would frame install and trim them out first possibly?? and then side to them.
very cool, very informative.
Thanks for sharing!!
I'm going to be finishing an existing post/beam shed that is in pretty sorry shape and this video will definitely help!
do you have any experience or suggestions with board on board roofing? (similar to board and batten siding..but on the roof)
(I'm in Estonia, in the middle of nowhere)
Thanks! Hope all goes well..
If you can find cedar shakes id try and do that first. but if not I do what I have to do to get it done. I'd be worried about water seeping in on the sides of the boards in a roof application. If the top board locks into a groove on the two bottom boards then maybe it would be safe to say it could work effectively. with a little bit of thought and some ingenuity, anything is possible.
I'm in Estonia and they use this roof style a lot. heart wood up they say here. We found am alternative material so we're thinking we'll salvage the good pieces from the old roof for the siding.
thanks again!!
Big Joe ... did you install actual windows. If so do you have and videos or pictures. I'm currently building a barn and looking for window ideas
we installed repurposed window sashes on the inside with hinges that allowed the window to open into the building for air circulation. it was a very simple design to help keep water out but still allow some light. since the barn was not being heated at the time.
Do you caulk around the exterior of the window ?
you could, but we didn't. the window sash was installed to open from the inside.
what stops the rain hitting the wall above the window running down and going behind the sloping timber over the head its only nailed on not sealed .
Nothing... since none of the barn is sealed and this is a rough cut barn simply nothing is stopping the water from seeping in many places since it's not sealed there is plenty of air space to dry out. if this barn was in a rain forest a much wetter setting maybe we would use different practices. since this is not a house with heat then lots of different ways to do things. It's just a barn. barns have stood for hundreds of years and built in the same way.
Fantastic. Wow. Are you using ss nails? Also, how do you seal (waterproof) the seams?
+doobysnacks Thank you. Galvanized siding nails. We use a z channel on the buttseams to help divert the water. Otherwise I'm not sure what you mean.
Is that pine?
thank you
What kind of wood is that?
Joe, what species of wood was used and was it rough down on all 4 edges or S1S2E (surfaced 1 side and 2 edges). Thanks, very informative.
Thank you! All rough cut hemlock rough on all sides. besides the ripped edges were smooth cut with circular saw. that barn was a fun project.
imo they shoulda went with black or brown roll up doors.
Why don't you add some clear caulk between the trim joints before nailing? Water going to collect in the gaps and eventually rot out the wood.
How many barns have you built? How many barns are still standing that have never seen caulk that don't leak? That's why we don't do it, It's not needed.
@@BigJoeKasulischannel Got it. Probably better to have good size cracks that can allow things to dry out easily.
The tiny house movement is in, what would a building like that cost?
Sandra Nelson $30,000-$100,000?? The barn in the video is over 150 years old. The Restoration of the barn was $10's of thousands including but not limited to, new roof framing as needed, New roofing on whole barn and entire new roof on back part, New wall framing as needed along with the new board & batten rough cut siding. A good rule of thumb if you are planing a build. Price the materials then x (times) that by 2 for labor that equals the total cost of the job give or take a few. So if materials cost $15,000 expect the job in total to cost $30,000. That's how I would do quick rough estimate.
Sandra Nelson Thanks for watching and commenting!
...Am wondering why no caulking was used anywhere?
I've been in and rebuilt a few barns that stood and still stand for over 200 years... Barns don't have caulking. It's still a dirt floor barn. Barns and a lot of old structures of the kind need to breathe. That structure is far from air tight.
So on a house you would have tackled this in a whole different way, flashed the boards onto the top piece of trim. Board and bat is tricky to seal on a house, barns are a completely different animal.
idk why but the videos in slow mo
SmokedOutTutorials ?? Not sure?? Some parts are slowed down or even sped up. Most of the video is normal speed as far as I can see, bud. Possibly check your settings on the bottom of the video?
I fixed it ...just had to refresh. keep posting bro.much love
SmokedOutTutorials Thank You! The love is much appreciated... Cheers!!!