Excellent video. Loved the detailed explanation and visual explaining only screwing on one side of the board. Most other videos don't have as clear instructions. Thank you!
My husband and I loved watching your video. Thank you so much. We are going to do the pseudo board and bat on an addition to our little pump house. But now we know how to do the traditional one as well. Thank you so very much. Excellent video and excellent quality.
Batten, bat, baton? In French, bâton means a narrow and long stick, usually with a square cross section. Collins confirms that origin while Merriam -Webster has another origin for batten. I'm a French speaker and board and "baton" make a lot of sense to me :-)
FOR ADDED STRENGTH I'M GOING TO PUT HOUSE WRAP, HORIZONTAL 2×4'S @18-24"O/C 1.5" INSULATION BOARD BETWEEN THE 2×4 THEN INSTALL THE B&B SIDING W/SCREW'S. LIVING IN LOWER N.MICHIGAN THE ADDED INSULATION BOARD WILL HELP REDUCE THE HEATING COST FOR WINTERS.
THANK YOU FOR THE INFORMATION MY LITTLE PLACE WAS BUILT FROM PLANS IN THE OLD "MOTHER EARTH NEWS" IN 1963 SWISS STYLE. IT'S BEEN NEGLECTED OVER THE YEARS. WILL DO SOME BEFORE AND AFTERS INSIDE AND OUT. I'VE GOT MY WORK CUT OUT FOR ME FOR SURE MY DAUGHTER SAMANTHA CALL'S IT "DAD'S S_-T SHACK" SHE'S THE ONE THAT'S GONNA CRAP WHEN I'M DONE 😉👍😁
Thanks.. I'm thinking white cedar B&B over plywood here in Iowa, but the most common width is only 8" from wisconsin.. That would look dumb, wouldn't it?
Trying to figure out if boards and bats should be installed over a plywood siding that is already on the house. Or should we taken it off? The carpenter wants to install it over the plywood. I'm thinking the plywood (installed in the early 80s, it's a fake board and batten-type siding) should be removed first. Any advice?
@@crossroadsreport9675 does the existing plywood give any sheer strength that will prevent wall from shifting side to side. Many walls require this. If it adds strength I would leave it. Obviously I have not seen your product and know all the details.
If you dont have plywood (or the like) over the girts, wouldnt you then have a rat hole at the bottom, under every batten? Would you have to use some kind of rat guard flashing metal or something else to block it?
Thank you for doing this. The Internet is littered with conflicting information in regard to the correct method of attaching the boards and bats. This method makes sense and looks good. Attaching the boards and bats in this manner could even be done with green wood. I'll listen to an actual teacher. :) Subscribed.
Wow. Great video. So informative. I was wondering if you would put any caulking between the batten and board. You don't have any concerns of sideways rain getting into the walls and developing mold? I guess this may also interfere with expansion/contraction of the boards. (Initially, I was disappointed by the batten being on plywood, but in waiting a minute, I was very glad I continued watching.)
Thanks! Informative and helpful. Question: I’m building a small storage, basically a broom closet that will be on my covered deck. I’m using 6” wide rough cut cedar fence pickets for the verticals. Also I plan to stain and apply polyurethane. So my question is, will the fence pickets swell and contract enough to require attaching only on one side, as you demonstrate? Thanks again!
That narrow of a width, if the boards are very dry now, I wouldn’t expect as much shrinkage or expansion. If it were me I would still fasten on one side.
I want to do this as siding on our house. It currently has old wooden clapboard siding. Do we need to remove the clapboard and put plywood to the studs, then wrap that with tyvex and then do the board and batton? If we were to do the plywood and batton instead of the true board and batton would we still need to do the plywood to the studs then wrap it with tyvex and then more plywood ontop of the tyvex for the battons to go on?
You could put it over clapboard, but it might create some problems. One would be it would push the final siding further out and trimming windows and doors would be difficult. If doing plywood and batten you can put the tyvek on the studs, then plywood then batten.
@@taurareynolds5049 in most situations 1/2 inch plywood has enough sheer strength for houses. All homes here except for specialty homes are sheeted with 1/2 inch including my house.
No mine is not kiln dried but it was stacked with spacers for several months. Mostly dry, but that is the Beaty of board and bat, it allows for shrinkage during curing.
@FlanaganHomestead nice.I also have a mill but haven't used it yet, a new woodland 130max, I'm going to mill a bunch of standing Austrian Pines and make B&B
Ok, yes, there’s almost always a better way to a lot of things… do you have an instruction video or other instructional material available for how to do it for less time and money… or can you describe what to do differently… thanks.
@waynegreen4972 thanks for watching. Can you explain your comment. Are you referring to putting up rough faced plywood and putting bats on that. Yes that would be faster and cheaper. Some want actual board and batten. I have done it both ways.
I have vertcle framing. Not good for board and bat. Also b&b does not give sheer strength like plywood does. I needed this for the design of the structure.
Can I do post and beam framing on top of a concrete pad? The posts will not be sunk into the concrete so I'm concerned they won't have enough sheer strength? @@FlanaganHomestead
@@JerryXM991 that would go against the design purpose. If there is already a slab on the ground you wish to cover traditional vertical studs with plywood sheeting and sill plate anchored to the floor would be structurally more sound.
Really good video. Detailed, well edited, technically advanced topics.
Thanks for kind words
Excellent video. Loved the detailed explanation and visual explaining only screwing on one side of the board. Most other videos don't have as clear instructions. Thank you!
My husband and I loved watching your video. Thank you so much. We are going to do the pseudo board and bat on an addition to our little pump house. But now we know how to do the traditional one as well. Thank you so very much. Excellent video and excellent quality.
@@EllenVesterdal thanks for the kind words. Enjoy your build.
Great video on differences, love the tradition b&b barn.
Great video. People like you whom post how-tos like this immeasurably help so many.
Thanks for the kind words. Glad I could help
Great tip about nailing only one edge, thanks for sharing.
Great explanation of different scenarios for board and batten. Thanks!
About to do my Tiny house with board I cut form my saw mill. Your video was a big help!
Other videos I watched on B&B nailed it in the center of the board to allow shrinkage both ways, but, of course, you see the fasteners
Beautiful video. I love the board and batten look...can't wait to do this to my cabin build.
It is a beautiful rustic look. Good luck on your install
@@FlanaganHomestead Thanks, friend.
Such a thorough video. Looking to do this on a summer house here in UK..!! Thank you..🙌🤩
So informative! I’m ready to do my board and batten siding now
Excellent video, thanks!
Thank you! This is awesome information.
Thanks for watching. Happy building.
Batten, bat, baton? In French, bâton means a narrow and long stick, usually with a square cross section. Collins confirms that origin while Merriam -Webster has another origin for batten. I'm a French speaker and board and "baton" make a lot of sense to me :-)
FOR ADDED STRENGTH I'M GOING TO PUT HOUSE WRAP,
HORIZONTAL 2×4'S @18-24"O/C
1.5" INSULATION BOARD BETWEEN THE 2×4 THEN INSTALL THE B&B SIDING W/SCREW'S.
LIVING IN LOWER N.MICHIGAN THE ADDED INSULATION BOARD WILL HELP REDUCE THE HEATING COST FOR WINTERS.
Excellent
Great explanation, thanks.
Great tutorial thanks
Great video! Thank you!
Great job
Thanks for this.
THANK YOU FOR THE INFORMATION MY LITTLE PLACE WAS BUILT FROM PLANS IN THE OLD
"MOTHER EARTH NEWS"
IN 1963 SWISS STYLE.
IT'S BEEN NEGLECTED OVER THE YEARS.
WILL DO SOME BEFORE AND AFTERS INSIDE AND OUT.
I'VE GOT MY WORK CUT OUT FOR ME FOR SURE
MY DAUGHTER SAMANTHA CALL'S IT
"DAD'S S_-T SHACK"
SHE'S THE ONE THAT'S GONNA CRAP WHEN I'M DONE 😉👍😁
Enjoy your project. I am sure it will look great when done.
Good post thank you..
Great video. What type of wood did you use for your board and batten
and also what size/type of nails did you use in your nail gun? Thank you.
Thanks, I cut a large Doug Fir on my property for the boards. 1x12 boards 1x3 bats. I have been using a 2 3/8 ring shank nail in my gun.
Thanks.. I'm thinking white cedar B&B over plywood here in Iowa, but the most common width is only 8" from wisconsin.. That would look dumb, wouldn't it?
@@MrRerod on a full size structure I like 12 inches. I have some smaller walls I will put 8 on
@@FlanaganHomestead Guess I'd have to use white cedar shingles if I want that look.. But that would also look dumb on a barn
Trying to figure out if boards and bats should be installed over a plywood siding that is already on the house. Or should we taken it off? The carpenter wants to install it over the plywood. I'm thinking the plywood (installed in the early 80s, it's a fake board and batten-type siding) should be removed first. Any advice?
@@crossroadsreport9675 does the existing plywood give any sheer strength that will prevent wall from shifting side to side. Many walls require this. If it adds strength I would leave it. Obviously I have not seen your product and know all the details.
@@FlanaganHomestead Hard to say. I'll ask the contractor what he thinks.
What’s your take on using horizontal furring strips to create an air gap between the siding and house wrap for water drainage / ventilation?
@@MrIsakdim it seems to be an unnecessary move for those reasons. If the strips were horizontal it would not help with drainage.
@@FlanaganHomestead
Good point. There are perforated strips allowing for water to go through.
If you dont have plywood (or the like) over the girts, wouldnt you then have a rat hole at the bottom, under every batten? Would you have to use some kind of rat guard flashing metal or something else to block it?
great video thank you so much ! What do you do on the corners of the building?
I take similar rough sawn lumber anywhere from 3 inch thick(which is the width of my bats). To 5 inch. Create a corner and mail it on.
Thank you for doing this. The Internet is littered with conflicting information in regard to the correct method of attaching the boards and bats.
This method makes sense and looks good. Attaching the boards and bats in this manner could even be done with green wood.
I'll listen to an actual teacher. :)
Subscribed.
Wow. Great video. So informative. I was wondering if you would put any caulking between the batten and board. You don't have any concerns of sideways rain getting into the walls and developing mold? I guess this may also interfere with expansion/contraction of the boards. (Initially, I was disappointed by the batten being on plywood, but in waiting a minute, I was very glad I continued watching.)
Great video. May I ask what timber is being used for the vertical siding? Thanks
Being in the pacific Northwest I am using douglas fir.
Thanks
Thanks! Informative and helpful. Question: I’m building a small storage, basically a broom closet that will be on my covered deck. I’m using 6” wide rough cut cedar fence pickets for the verticals. Also I plan to stain and apply polyurethane. So my question is, will the fence pickets swell and contract enough to require attaching only on one side, as you demonstrate? Thanks again!
That narrow of a width, if the boards are very dry now, I wouldn’t expect as much shrinkage or expansion. If it were me I would still fasten on one side.
Did you install any flashing above the doors and windows?
Can you describe this please.
I want to do this as siding on our house. It currently has old wooden clapboard siding. Do we need to remove the clapboard and put plywood to the studs, then wrap that with tyvex and then do the board and batton? If we were to do the plywood and batton instead of the true board and batton would we still need to do the plywood to the studs then wrap it with tyvex and then more plywood ontop of the tyvex for the battons to go on?
You could put it over clapboard, but it might create some problems. One would be it would push the final siding further out and trimming windows and doors would be difficult. If doing plywood and batten you can put the tyvek on the studs, then plywood then batten.
What size plywood would you need on a house? 3/4 or 1/2 inch
@@taurareynolds5049 in most situations 1/2 inch plywood has enough sheer strength for houses. All homes here except for specialty homes are sheeted with 1/2 inch including my house.
How do you prevent mice and critters from entering the gaps under the batton strips with this style of siding?
One bottle of spray foam can do your entire perimeter and your pipe entrances.
Hi...Can you apply board and bat over vinyl siding? Or plywood and bat?
How wide is the gap in between boards? 3/4
yes 3/4 is a good spacing, although you can do wider if your bats are wide.
@@FlanaganHomestead
Thank you, my boards are 9 3/4 and battens are 3 feet wide.
Is that Swedish falun red?
It’s Doug fir
Sure looks like it, doesn't it? It's a pretty shade of red.
What size board do you use for board and bat siding? Is the batten a 1 x 3?
The structure you see in the video is 1x12 board and 1x3 batten.
@@FlanaganHomestead Thank you
What size nail do you use?
Galvanized 8’s work for the boards. Need a little longer for the bats
Are you worried about the screws splitting the boards? Would it be better to use like a roofing screw that lays flat on the board?
Not when they are a long ways from the end of the board. The screws at either end depending on the proximity to the end you need to be careful.
Great video! Curious, what thickness is your plywood?
1/2 inch
How would I get hold of you have a few questions want to do this to my house. Older house made of cement.
Coachflanny@yahoo.com
what type of wood would you recommend i find ? thankyou kindly
In my area of the country we are all using Doug fir. There are other types that work well in different areas. It tends to come from conifers
@@FlanaganHomestead ok awesome thankyou sir
How thick are the strips 3 inches ?
Are you using kiln dried lumber?
No mine is not kiln dried but it was stacked with spacers for several months. Mostly dry, but that is the Beaty of board and bat, it allows for shrinkage during curing.
@FlanaganHomestead nice.I also have a mill but haven't used it yet, a new woodland 130max, I'm going to mill a bunch of standing Austrian Pines and make B&B
What kind of wood are you using? I have an old garage with water rot on the siding. I am thinking of restoring it.
Great information.... everyone i have seen Installing board and batten ..... It looks like they are nailing incorrectly.
Are the boards just rough cut 1 x 10 rough cut Western cedar from Lowes or Home Depot?
You can do it this guy's way if you want to spend 5x's the amount in materials and 3x's the labour to achieve the same end results
Ok, yes, there’s almost always a better way to a lot of things… do you have an instruction video or other instructional material available for how to do it for less time and money… or can you describe what to do differently… thanks.
@waynegreen4972 thanks for watching. Can you explain your comment. Are you referring to putting up rough faced plywood and putting bats on that. Yes that would be faster and cheaper. Some want actual board and batten. I have done it both ways.
What kind of wood did you use?
I milled up a Doug fir I cut on my property
B&B on top of plywood...? Perhaps unnecessarily expensive with no real benefit other than visual...
I have vertcle framing. Not good for board and bat. Also b&b does not give sheer strength like plywood does. I needed this for the design of the structure.
Can I do post and beam framing on top of a concrete pad? The posts will not be sunk into the concrete so I'm concerned they won't have enough sheer strength?
@@FlanaganHomestead
@@JerryXM991 that would go against the design purpose. If there is already a slab on the ground you wish to cover traditional vertical studs with plywood sheeting and sill plate anchored to the floor would be structurally more sound.
What type of wood did you use?
Looks like hemlock to me.