THE BEST SIDING FOR YOUR BARN,CABIN AND WORKSHOP, BOARD AND BATTEN
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- First video on how I install Board/Batten Siding.
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I will release a second video on this construction process detailing the process.
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What kind of wood are you using? Is it cedar?
You need to stagger the screws you are driving into the 1x3 purlins or runners. The reason why is because the thickness of the screws themselves act as a wedge that will crack that 1x3 into two separate pieces if you don't stagger them. When they nail decks into 2x4 or 2x6s they stagger the nailing to prevent the possibility of turning the nails into wedges creating a stress fracture in the 2x4 pr 2x6.
put one fastener down the middle of the board, crown out. then put one fastener in the middle of the batten, also crown out. batten fastener goes between the edges of the board. this allows the board to shrink/expand without splitting the board
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. Thanks for watching 👍👍
I agree with Paul Griffin. Thing about green lumber is it will shrink. Another touch is to put one fastener where the batten will cover it. Then nail on the batten between boards. Still curious why you used screws. They must be ten times as expensive as nails. I also don't understand the exclusive use of cordless tools.
Man I’ve lived and built barns and buildings in northern Kentucky most my live and I’ve never heard of Ancorseal. Thanks for the advice!
👍
I never heard of Anchor Seal until I starting researching, why my wooden shed timbers are rotting from the concrete base up. Any suggestions?
Peter Mortimer that a pretty broad question. It depends on how it’s framed, if the lumber is treated or not, if you have good drainage around the building o and so on. Wood acts as a sponge that expands and contracts with the seasons. That’s y you benefit from sealing it, especially end grain.
My Granddad always cut the bottom of siding boards at a 10 deg angle from the front to the back (higher in the back). He said it helped with boards rotting from rain. He said it gave an edge for the rain to drip off instead of just sitting on the end grain and soaking up the board. Worked great, as I have some barn boards from him that were put up in the 1930s with very little end rot. Just one person's perspective. Thanks for the vid....
Good idea, never heard of that one before, thanks for sharing!
Granddad was right!
Good to know.
Heps to keep the water from the sill plate and prevents your sill from rotting out.
I’ll Remember that for Life and pass it on For Sure !
Thx’s
Morchure. I love it.
great video! Thanks for sharing,
Thanks for watching
I thought the "battons" were going to be like 1x3s over each verticle gap between the boards.
great advise here...thanks
Noway in the world would I ever get that draw knife so close to my package
what was the purpose of nailing a horizonal strip over the aiding. looks to me like a great place for water to lay
They're purlins when they are on the roof. They're girts when they are on the walls.
Splitting at the ends can be reduced by drilling a hole for every nail (just through the siding). A pain in the ass, yes.
It's good to see the woodprix has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
Best plans ever. Good tip Denis
Would you recommend the air gap on a cabin? Enjoyed the video!
Thanks. Not sure on a cabin. Never been around much cabin construction. Thanks for watching 👍
It keeps the wood from suckling up moisture and start to rot. And seals the end.
Good stuff! I have a stack of air dried red cedar I'd like to use for siding my workshop next spring. I find I always pick up a few tips or ideas from every video I watch. Cheers! Kent
thanks Kent, appreciate you watching,
I would seal the ends too. Yes, some would consider steps like this as overkill, but that's what separates great work from just good work.
Thanks Gary. Appreciate that
What?! Battens go vertically to cover the spaces between the boards. ?!?
I thought you were doing a Marty Feldman impersonation! 😉
haha, good one,
Milling up some board and batten today buddy! Thanks for the video!
Nice good luck!!!
Nice good luck!!!
We love board n batten siding. Same method u used except we use T1-11 strips for runners, the grooves in the T1-11 allows air to pass up and down. Great video my friend. . . and by the way, great music. 👍
I am in San Diego, CA. We call the horizontal strips furring or I guess runners. Purlins hold the rafters up at about mid-point to prevent sagging or crowning.
I am from Alberta Canada and would give my eye teeth to get my hands on Some of your abundance of Oak and other hardwoods. Send an email with some in it ..Maybe modern technology will achieve that..Not. I enjoy your channel,accent and hardwood knowledge.
Thank you. What is sad that most people here could care less about the forest diversity we have.
Thanks for watching ‘n
What kind of wood are you using for your board and batten siding?
southern Red Oak,
Anchorseal! The second best thing Buffalo NY has given the world.
Enjoyed the video, great tips on when to use the AnchorSeal.
Nice look the board and batten siding!!
Thanks, Glad you got something out of it, I am going to do another video showing the battens going up and the finished wall,
Thanks for watching,
Look at those HUGE cookies!!! Lol
lol yeah I moved the tin off that day for the video, the wind hitting the tin made for some bad background noise, lol
Your videos are good, maybe just to good. Whatever subject you're talking about you way overdo it. Yes, I have been in the business for forty years and yes I am aware but please limit your explanation to a reasonable length. On the issue of the board an batten, siding that is one of the reasons for the battons is to hide or take up the shrink. These buildings are the Taj Mahal. So cracks check only add to the beauty of the structure. Yes, my opinion.
Thanks Ronald for watching my videos and the feedback, I struggle with how much to explain etc, seems when I try to minimize it people want more and the opposite, Maybe I will find a happy medium one day, Thanks for watching, have a great rest of your day,
Mabey just to good huh?
Looks rustic and nice. But isn't tongue and groove even better ? That is what they use in my country(Norway).
yes but more expensive, hello to Norway!
Do you worry about water pooling above the runner since it runs horizontally?
nah been 2 years, doing just fine,
@@OutoftheWoods0623 that's standard procedure here in Scotland. If you think about it that's exactly what's going to happen..🙈🙈👍
Now I've got it. Listening to you is like listening to Billy Bob Thornton, which suits me just fine!
Those clamping saw horses are great! We use one to clamp branches for draw knifing the bark off. I also use it with a C clamp in the jaws to hold my chainsaw bar so I can sharpen it on the sawhorse. I have the Triton version. Timber framers typically seal the end grain as they are cutting joinery.
Yeah I wish I would have purchased one years ago. Interesting that the timber farmers do that and makes perfect sense. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Liked and subscribed to your channel. As others here have pointed out, the runners are called strapping or furring strips. They give you something to nail to and provide a gap between the boards and the building. This gap is called a rain screen and prevents moisture from accumulating behind the boards. Installing some wire mesh along the bottom prevents pests getting up behind the boards. A rain screen is always required, regardless of the building’s function. I would also recommend that the gap between your boards be a little bit larger in order to accommodate shrinkage and expansion but also to allow you to drive a single nail through the batten through the gap and into the furring strip behind it. This, along with a single nail in the middle of each board allows the entire assembly to move without splitting. As for the video, I was very impressed with your editing skills. I loved the quote at the beginning. I loved the aerial shots. And I even liked the outtake at the end. Keep up the great work... you’ve got yourself a new subscriber today.
Does horizontal strapping, like he's doing, act as a rain screen? Isn't that going to keep water from falling down the side of the building? Asking because I'm about to do the same thing.
@@jh-lp7cg All the more reason to leave a bit of a gap between your boards under the battens so that bulk water will have a place to go if it gets behind the siding. What we don't want is having the boards pressing right up against the sheathing/house wrap, with no space for air flow behind the board/batten siding If we did, then any water that does get in will just sit there and not dry out. It's more about airflow than water flow.
I watched an old timer who said to just use one screw in the middle of the green boards so that you reduce cracks from shrinkage. what has been your experience?
I use home made creosote to seal the ends of boards and fence posts, there is a formula on the internet for making creosote - creosote lasts forever plus a 100 yrs
Gotta get me a set of those sawhorses. They are pretty slick.
Rockwell makes them, they have those at Lowes, it's like having an extra set of hands,
I was told you're suppose to nail only one side of the boards so they don't crack when the shrink from drying. Am I missing something?
I was just going to suggest one nail in middle of board and one in middle of batten, but someone beat me to it. As shown boards will have a tendency to split especially if green wood like I intend to use on new winery barn.
I was told to only put 1 screw in the center so as the wood shrinks it won't crack and can move. Then in a year or 2 go back and put screws on each side of the boards. What do you think? I know with my ocd I wouldn't be able to stand looking at cracks lol.
I'll bet that small pocket of dead air behind the siding provides a bit of insulation value as well. Had to chuckle when you talked about the sunglasses. I thought you did pretty well the last time that you spoke into the camera. I am a work in progress as well......
Yeah I hope one day to have a camera for a forward facing screen, really hard to tell what you filming without one, and they eyes just seem to wonder,
Thanks for watching! Still cold in your neck of the woods>?
It was up near 50 a week ago and then it was minus 5 this morning.
in the low 40s here today, suppose to be 60 tomorrow!
The air gap also allow wind driven moisture to escape or run out the bottom. I call the horizontal strips strapping there are also girts in walls and purlins in roofs when timber framing. the old guy Bert
👍👍thanks for watching!
Wouldn't the strapping stop any moisture from making it to the bottom?
ooooh Dick Proenneke. Great documentary
Can you use cdx sheathing for the siding? Will it stand up to the weather if it was caulked and painted?
girts on the wall, purlins on the roof. same thing, different place.
Thanks. Appreciate the terminology!
Thanks for watching
good stuff. I'm still at the chainmill stage and getting real tired of humping this ol 084 around. I Enjoy learning from your videos, thank you for spending the time.
Good deal. What size bar are you running? Thanks for watching!
out of the woods, is that strpping 4 feet a part that you are screwing the board an bat to? never seen it that way, I know you talk about this in this video but at that far spacing will that geen board not twist up an down like when you put dry wall on 24 inch center studs
They are 3 feet. Apart. Quarter sawn boards no worries in it moving a lot. Thanks for watching
music at 11:00 is somewhat beatlesque... nice
Sir your videos are the perfect cross between Texas country reporter and the woodwrights shop....you should be broadcasted on PBS
thanks, maybe one day, appreciate it,
You should cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of the boards for water drop formations to fall. Less chance of rot from the bottom
I am actually going to cover the entire bottom with a 2x5 white oak plant to act as a sill,
Thanks for watching,
that anchor seal is great, you can go one better and trim the bottom on a 30 degree, place the long face out, and the water will drip off instead of running back under.
I like the look of board and batten, but as the boards dry, a decent sized gap can open up and let bugs in. It's a lot of work, but I have been running my boards over the dado, making a 3/4 inch lap, instead of battens, a crack still opens up, but it's 3/8 instead of 3/4.
looks good, gl.
Thanks and I appreciate the feedback
New subscriber here. Excellent videos! You could have your own TV show. But, hey this is UA-cam, better than TV. Look forward to more.
Agreed.TV would be going backwards. Thanks for watching 👍👍
Dude!!! I work in construction. I have been doing it for over 10 years now, And I have never seen anyone do that sweet little trick using the speed square as a guide bar... Thank you Nate!!,🙏 I am going to use that all the time! Today in fact!! 😉🤟
I have found it easier to buy the small wood stock, 1 x 2, even 2 x 4's. I have not gotten very good results cutting my own and the small stock I cut warps so badly when it dries, it's not really useable.
Agreed. Thanks for the feedback
Never seen a draw knife with straight handles like that, almost looks like a hide scrapper.
john neeman model, good stuff,
So, would you recommend sealing up the ends of those boards? JK, my friend. Definitely will pay in the long haul. Nice little shed you got going there.
Thanks! Appreciate you watching!
The kiln is looking awesome! I'm thinking about building one out of a shipping container once I get my shop built this spring. Another great video!
Thanks, a shipping container would be a good way to build one,
Thanks for watching!
Your videos are getting better man.....Keep at it...
Thank you
I do it slows down on the drying but I use titebond glue seems for me it's done more than others. To make a piece of lumber or log perfect. Great job you're person who makes it a quality job done right......🤗👍
Thanks 👍
Great video.
Do the girts, perlins, horizontal strapping have any slits in them on the side that goes against the shed for drainage or is that not needed ? Thanks and very nice looking shed !
No slits. Solid wood
Thanks for watching
Neat place, good work. I see asphalt on the drive. You're rich, oil wells, won the lottery?
I’m a model
Klingspor's Green wood Sealer
Around 16.95 as I recall.
Anchor-Seal discontinued it's affordable recipe of waxy goo but sells nowadays expensive muck for around 32.00
So, use any old latex paint setting back on your shelf in your shop, or affordable 16.95$ waxy goo, because for me, that waxy muck is too costly.
This guy is cracked. I dried my boards, sticker them for a month with a fan on them, then I stained them. Hung 10.5 in church boards and 6 inch buttons 2 inches apart. Beautiful.
noticed you nailed both sides of the boards.... I was told to only nail one side because when it shrinks it will split board
Nope wood shrinks around the nails. No issues
The "best" siding ( or anything else labeled "the best") is the one that works for you. Personally, I like horizontal lap siding a WHOLE lot better than board/batten......which leaves a gap between the boards, covered with the batten EXCEPT at the bottom which leaves a great entry space for insects. Been there, done it, got tired of harboring dirt daubers and wasps, not going back.
Tapered lap siding is easily made on a bandmill by simply shimming a cant ( I make mine 8" wide x however tall I can get out of a log) with a couple plywood shims. No expensive or complicated jig is required. I use a 2"x2"x5/8" plywood shim, gives me a 3/8" to 7/8" taper in an 8" wide siding.
Square up the log into a cant, cock to one side by sticking a shim between the bottom of the cant and the bed rail, make a pass with the saw head. Remove the shims for the next pass, the taper switches sides. Re-shim for the 3rd pass, and so on until you run out of cant.
Grade F - on pencil marks.
I may be gambling here, but I'm going to try this with, Sweetgum. I know Sweetgum has a tendency to warp and twist as it dries, but I've heard of people using it for barns in the past and I'm not worried about the shed being perfectly sealed. I'm going to use ring-shanked nails and definitely seal the ends during installation. Any pieces that warp real bad I'll replace later. I'm thinking I'll cut them 1" thick and about 6" wide and put them on as I drop and mill them. I have several large Sweetgum trees that have to come down so I may as well use it. Any thoughts or concerns with Sweetgum siding? The shed is just for misc storage of garden pots, hoses, and misc stuff. Great vid and thanks for the knowledge!
My friend/what I also call the guy who taught me a lot of about timber would agree with you in this venture. I would nail it up within days of being sawed and you should be find. Leave a few inches off the ground and it should last a good while. The only way to saw sweetgum for furniture/kiln drying is to quarter saw due to it's spiral interlocking grain. I say go for it, if I had some on hand I would be using it here,
Red 6Romeo a twist ads character
Great video . Excellent presentation . Now where do I get those sawhorses in the UK. ! Thanks for sharing .
thanks ,i got mine at the local Lowes store, Thanks for watching!!
Great job bud! Keep the videos coming. I just finished up board and batten siding on my workshop I'm building. Used SYP since I didn't have a free source of oak logs to mill. I also used house wrap behind mine the way you did. Really you have to or over time you're going to get a little wind blown rain behind there and if you don't have a vapor barrier your OSB will turn to mush and mildew. I do have one question though. What's with the horizontal board you are nailing across the middle at the end of the video. I have a board like that across the top of my boards at the gable ends but that's just to cover the gap between those boards.
Thanks Clint, I am filming a follow up video today, I will address your questions,
What's that interesting building in the background? Nice proportions.
thanks for explaining that,, I was wondering what it was then you start telling us. really odd that some 1 can read my mind
Thanks for watching!👍👍
I kinda lost on the anchor seal you never told why you use it , at all. You said that it drives you crazy seeing cracks after it is been on their a while but then their is gonna be checks in our anyway. We always square up our lumber if we can cutting the cracks out of the board then we keep the nails or screwed 3 inches away from the end and predrill with a small pilot hole then we go ahead and about 3 months later add Q8 log oil and it does an amazing job so far so good , it usually lasts about 3 years the first time then go back and coat it again at 3 years and you can get by with every 3 to 5 years after that. We always add in the mold and mildew preventer and the all natural boring bees and all boring insects repellent and man it is awesome and looks beautiful. Have you ever tried that just staying away from the end and pre drilling the holes at the end of the board work a pilot hole to make it not bust.
A little OCD re: lining up the screws, but looks great! I will be doing that from now on too! :)
Lol yeah. I like stuff to match. 👍
I have done siding and put up, but never sealed the ends. 10 years now and no issues, but, would have been a great idea!!! wish I would have!
yeah not sure if it is necessary either, thanks for watching,
@@OutoftheWoods0623 hey, I think it is a great idea! only takes a second, and then you know for sure she will last. I like it brother! Will for sure steal your idea on my next build from my boards :-) Keep up your great channel! Love it!
how thick are you boards? 3/4 or 1 inch?
1in
ok, that is sufficient for house siding as well, right?
Yes 👍👍
Thanks for the video. With the wood siding exposed to the elements, how do you keep it from rotting?
its covered by the over hang of the building and several inches from ground contact, It would be just fine as is for 50 years but I will also paint it once it has air dried a few months.
Thanks for watching!
You went to all that trouble of giving yourself that air gap great idea but your troubles are for not, you just trapped all that moisture against the OSB when you put that house wrap on, all the trapped moisture will run out the bottom now. House wrap does a great job doing what it was designed for keeping moisture out, but it does a equally good job at trapping moisture in.
In green wood board and batten siding, you should fasten the boards and battens down the center. Fastening along the edges can result in splits as the fasteners don't move while the green board does. The boards should be oriented so that any cupping will be up (away from the wall) while the battens should be oriented so that they cup down (towards the wall). This will help to "lock" the boards and battens together.
They are quartersawn so doesn’t matter how o orientate the lumber also. Being quarter sawn the width will move little if any and they were also air dried a few months before installing. They are 1x6 if they were wide boards then yes I would have done what you suggested.
It helps to be able to make your own lumber :). I'm working towards that, making my own lumber. Wife and I have a 60 acre timber lot in East Texas. Hopefully, if it's not sold, I'm off on Saturday to look at a used sawmill. Maybe I'll be milling on Sunday!
Good deal. Good luck!!
In 1980 I put shortleaf pine siding on my house.It is 8”boards with 2” batten strips,all vertical.It still looks good today.The batten strips cover all nail heads,the bottoms are angled for drip and there is no checking.One thing never mentioned that I’m so glad an old carpenter told me; turn the heart side out so if there is any cupping the center rises instead of the edge.Same for a floor,turn the heart up.I have never had a problem but have seen others who did.The batten strips are only nailed on one side away from prevailing wind.
You can't buy green wood any where around here. It's all kiln.. dried.
Anchor seal is expensive and generally not needed if you are using Eastern White Pine, even if it is fairly green it does not tend to check or move much.
I would be inclined to agree about the runners allowing moisture to escape IF the wrap was not installed on the OSB. The moisture will not
The moisture will be trapped by the wrap, so I hope the OSB doesn’t deteriorate.
@@stevensublett7589 it shouldn't as the wrap allows vapour out and prevents water getting in . This fellow had done it correctly
Way too much verbiage, professor!!
Thanks! I appreciate the compliment. Have a good one Rob.
i have always called them furring strips
yes same thing,
I love your attention to details. your craftsmanship shows in everything you've done. I just found your video. This is the first I've seen, and look forward to seeing all the rest..
thanks, appreciate you watching,
Like the drone shots a lot, thanks for adding them. And also that green wood will dry and the space will let it dry better as well. Great video...
Thanks Robert, appreciate you watching,
Who did the music in the end credits?
nicely done ... I've sided my sheds in a similar way and found it to be very solid and tight
Thanks, i ran out of time on this footage, I am going to make an additional video showing the completed wall and installing the batten strips.
Thanks for watching!
can't wait to see it
Perlins are 2x4s used on pole barns n post style construction. Used in a horizontal direction like you did.
a little too much waffle, not enough action...
However if your runners are set horizontal won’t they trap any moisture from running down and out?
hello. what do you think about installing the batten direclty on plywood, instead of using board ? It will be ok ?
Bring God into your videos and all will go great. Loved the into and the ending. God will always give you choice and favor.
You cant' go wrong with God on your your side.
he is already there, no invite needed,
Thump, thump, thump.
Looks great! Are you using rust resistant nails? It always drives me crazy when I see buildings with rust streaks running down the side from the nails.
Thanks James, Yes I am using galvanized nails for the batten strips, and coated screws for the boards, I hate that rust look also and it will also make the wood turn black around the nail hole, especially in oak,
Thanks for watching James!
That'll last a very long time, nicely done!
Thanks James, hope to be adding some batten strips today and the white oak 2x6 for the bottom sill,
That'll look great!
I kinda like the rust, makes it look RUSTic !!
That gap also becomes a great home for the bees or maybe a yellow jacket or wasp nest.
Yes thought that also. 👎👎
Up here we call them furring strips. Look it up.
yeah different names for all places it seems,
thanks for watching,
Hummm I have watched a fue of your vids now. With the siding on your kiln i do have some concerns. As you have mentioned you expect the siding boards to move 5/16", as I would also expect. BUT you have put a screw in each side of each board, this will either crack each board or break the screw off. I have seen this before. I do believe it should be put up with only one screw in the center of each board and also only one screw in the center of each batton. In doing this the boards can and will move with out pulling on any screws or cracking the siding boards.
Thanks for the feedback Jim, you misheard me in the video, I stated about 1/16 on the movement due to the wood be quarter sawn. I will explain my method and expectations on the next video. I appreciate your thoughts on this,
Out of the Woods I install my board and Batton the same way and I never have an issue with it at all and some of it has been up almost 30 years. The siding jobs I have seen where board and Batton went wrong was when it was held up by a single nail in the center and it will cup so bad that it pushes your batton strips off because there’s nothing to hold it flat against the building, in my old ass opinion he has done it the proper way for a proper, long lasting siding job
I think you are right with one nail or screw in the center of the board and one in the batten thru the crack between the boards.
There is the cupping issue too. But minimal with Quarter-sawn. This cut down on shrinkage/movement. Galvanized nails will hold better than other nails, to eliminate thw battens pulling off.
what part of the country is your accent from?
Tennessee
Lots of fluff.