Is this a metal on metal connection? It seems like fuel is bypassing into the return because there is no rubber on my system. Any ideas on how to fix that?
Sorry. I didn't see your question until now. I don't envy you with your broken screw. The bolt is M3.5/.6 pitch x 12mm long. You can order them from a hobby store (they come in 20mm length, so you have to cut it to 12mm). www.hobbyworks.com/index.cfm?action=products&SKU=470814& Local hardware stores do not stock. I got lucky and I have a local shop that repairs old C4 Corvettes, so they have extra TPI parts. I was able to get an extra screw from them...but mine was only missing a bolt. If you can't remove the broken bolt, you can get a machine shop to remove it...or it might be cheaper to just get a new regulator body off of eBay and start fresh. I would say that you might get by without using that bolt (5 of the 6 bolts), but a friend had his car burn to the ground due to fuel spray from a fuel rail leak...so I'll caution against living without the broken bolt. Good luck Chad.
What chemicals do you use to clean the fuel rails and spray them out internally? Throttle body cleaner, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol???
@@colt5189 Good to note. It's probably tough to get something good enough to clean the insides without hurting the paint. Keeping control of the spray with those problematic red straws is necessary. ;)
I’m not sure. They are different sizes. I can’t find the ACDelco O-Ring kit anymore, so I put details on getting a different brand kit…they are in the UPDATE section in the video description. 👍
The pressure regulator wouldn’t lay flat when all the screws were in place. It was pulling on half of them. Can I take my hole punch & open them up a tiny bit so the seal will lay flat or will that mess up the pressure it’s supposed to have?
Did you start with the 2 on opposite sides...like I did in the video? Leave an 1/8" gap between the seal and the regulator cap and loosely install the other 4 screws before torqueing them all down. I wouldn't suggest opening the diaphragm holes.
@@CamaroFamily I definitely did the across insert of bolts as well as during tightening. I’m going to guess my replacement FPR wasn’t cut precisely. I measured how much I took with the leather punch & it was approximately 0.025” in the outside direction. Looking at the functionality of the FPR, I believe pressure will be ok. This is because I’m haven’t changed the strength of the spring, which determines the pressure. Nor have I changed the strength of the rubber where fuel contacts it. My old FPR is stretched in the area that fuel makes contact. Yet I was still giving the proper pressure. If by chance I have more slack on the inside similar to the old one, once the volume is filled with fuel it will still force the spring up when too much pressure is present. 🤞🏻 One other thing I’ve had an issue with on my 89 Corvette is the two O-rings that are used on the ends of the supply & return lines (at the front) that connect to the fuel rail lines. The problem is the kit of o-rings for my Corvette comes with one 3/8” & one 1/4” o-rings. My stock Corvette needs both of the o-rings to be 3/8”. I’ve wasted a day on this alone but I’m positive they are both 3/8”. Both of the lines which connect to the fuel rail are 3/8” o.d., additionally the diameter of the line where the o-rings seats is 0.314”. The internal dimension of the female ends that these lines go into both measure 0.365” & finally when the two old o-rings are laying next to the new 3/8” o-ring I bought, one can see they are all exactly the same size. Thus to get two 3/8” o-rings I bought item # 730-4912 at NAPA which has two 3/8” & two 5/16” o-rings for $7 today. Hope all of that makes sense….
@@1HotRodHudson Wow! Good info. You spent some time with that. I had considered doing that work when I couldn’t get the ACDelco kit was discontinued. 👍👍
@@CamaroFamily I should stated this in my original statement; you did a very thorough & detailed explanation in the 4 videos. I thank you for that! I’d seen other’s UA-cam videos that were very lacking in their knowledge & ability to do a very thorough job like you did. The only thing I did differently was use a super tiny bit of Dielectric grease (silicone) between my fingers to then rub on the o-rings before installing them. If anyone does this please know one is just “wetting” the surface & not having any extra visible silicone grease on the O-rings. One does not want to cause any issues with too much silicone on the o-rings! Thanks again, Great videos!!
So microfiber wont breakdown, but paper will breakdown in oil? That explains why oil filters use a paper element. SMH. Dude. Stop give bad advice man!!! Clean your parts in an ultrasonic cleaner man.
Good to know
Super helpful! Glad to see a tutorial on it!
Awesome! Thanks for watching and for taking a moment to add a comment. 👍👍
Is this a metal on metal connection? It seems like fuel is bypassing into the return because there is no rubber on my system. Any ideas on how to fix that?
I broke off one of the small screws in the rugulator assembly how do i get it out and what size are they?
Sorry. I didn't see your question until now. I don't envy you with your broken screw. The bolt is M3.5/.6 pitch x 12mm long. You can order them from a hobby store (they come in 20mm length, so you have to cut it to 12mm).
www.hobbyworks.com/index.cfm?action=products&SKU=470814&
Local hardware stores do not stock.
I got lucky and I have a local shop that repairs old C4 Corvettes, so they have extra TPI parts. I was able to get an extra screw from them...but mine was only missing a bolt. If you can't remove the broken bolt, you can get a machine shop to remove it...or it might be cheaper to just get a new regulator body off of eBay and start fresh.
I would say that you might get by without using that bolt (5 of the 6 bolts), but a friend had his car burn to the ground due to fuel spray from a fuel rail leak...so I'll caution against living without the broken bolt. Good luck Chad.
What chemicals do you use to clean the fuel rails and spray them out internally? Throttle body cleaner, carb cleaner, brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol???
I used carb cleaner to spray out the insides of the fuel rails and parts. The insides were not caked with old fuel, so I was thankful.
@@CamaroFamily Carb cleaner is what I used last time. Though it did cause some of the paint to come off the tubes.
@@colt5189 Good to note. It's probably tough to get something good enough to clean the insides without hurting the paint. Keeping control of the spray with those problematic red straws is necessary. ;)
What size are those o rings
I’m not sure. They are different sizes. I can’t find the ACDelco O-Ring kit anymore, so I put details on getting a different brand kit…they are in the UPDATE section in the video description. 👍
The pressure regulator wouldn’t lay flat when all the screws were in place. It was pulling on half of them. Can I take my hole punch & open them up a tiny bit so the seal will lay flat or will that mess up the pressure it’s supposed to have?
Did you start with the 2 on opposite sides...like I did in the video? Leave an 1/8" gap between the seal and the regulator cap and loosely install the other 4 screws before torqueing them all down. I wouldn't suggest opening the diaphragm holes.
@@CamaroFamily I definitely did the across insert of bolts as well as during tightening. I’m going to guess my replacement FPR wasn’t cut precisely. I measured how much I took with the leather punch & it was approximately 0.025” in the outside direction.
Looking at the functionality of the FPR, I believe pressure will be ok. This is because I’m haven’t changed the strength of the spring, which determines the pressure. Nor have I changed the strength of the rubber where fuel contacts it. My old FPR is stretched in the area that fuel makes contact. Yet I was still giving the proper pressure. If by chance I have more slack on the inside similar to the old one, once the volume is filled with fuel it will still force the spring up when too much pressure is present. 🤞🏻
One other thing I’ve had an issue with on my 89 Corvette is the two O-rings that are used on the ends of the supply & return lines (at the front) that connect to the fuel rail lines. The problem is the kit of o-rings for my Corvette comes with one 3/8” & one 1/4” o-rings. My stock Corvette needs both of the o-rings to be 3/8”. I’ve wasted a day on this alone but I’m positive they are both 3/8”. Both of the lines which connect to the fuel rail are 3/8” o.d., additionally the diameter of the line where the o-rings seats is 0.314”. The internal dimension of the female ends that these lines go into both measure 0.365” & finally when the two old o-rings are laying next to the new 3/8” o-ring I bought, one can see they are all exactly the same size. Thus to get two 3/8” o-rings I bought item # 730-4912 at NAPA which has two 3/8” & two 5/16” o-rings for $7 today. Hope all of that makes sense….
@@1HotRodHudson Wow! Good info. You spent some time with that. I had considered doing that work when I couldn’t get the ACDelco kit was discontinued. 👍👍
@@CamaroFamily I should stated this in my original statement; you did a very thorough & detailed explanation in the 4 videos. I thank you for that! I’d seen other’s UA-cam videos that were very lacking in their knowledge & ability to do a very thorough job like you did. The only thing I did differently was use a super tiny bit of Dielectric grease (silicone) between my fingers to then rub on the o-rings before installing them. If anyone does this please know one is just “wetting” the surface & not having any extra visible silicone grease on the O-rings. One does not want to cause any issues with too much silicone on the o-rings! Thanks again, Great videos!!
👍
So microfiber wont breakdown, but paper will breakdown in oil? That explains why oil filters use a paper element. SMH. Dude. Stop give bad advice man!!! Clean your parts in an ultrasonic cleaner man.