I rebuilt a 1920’s Canedy-Otto drill press. It was a blast. I love the old machine tools. The castings are a work of art. Made to rebuild so you can get another hundred years out of them. I enjoyed this one too
I do love your drill press. Glad you were able to improve the run out. Things normally come apart easier the second time. The machine is good for many more years. Always nice to see a machine restored and given a new life. Dave.
I totally understand the "fanatical" thing.. I have been scratching my head the whole time I have owned the cochrane bly mill about where and how I was going to mount the motor. It's very important to me to not take away from the unique design of this odd ball mill. And a lot of the motors I have seen on them just look like a sore thumb..lol.. great job on the runout. Certainly not a job I would want to have to do . But I know I would definitely try to fix it too..lol
Nice job, on the repair Winky. In my experience all drill chucks will have runout to some degree. Considering the age of that machine and unknown abuse l would be very happy with the results you attained. Thanks for the post.
Nothing is perfect - just some are more perfect than others. The game is tolerance - mine has a run-out that vibrates the piece more than yours does (never measured it), "but for the women I go out with" (TM AvE) it works fine...it shits me, but really it works just fine. Great video Winky - always look forward to them and this one was one of the better ones for me. Thanks.
I enjoy your videos and since I am in process of reconditioning a 1938 Walker Turner 13" drill press myself, the runout issue is one I am paying very much attention to. Mine is a 13" and high rpm and I hope to get better than 3thou TIR . Might be a tall order but I'm going through some pains to achieve the best I can. Thank you from North Carolina!
I could have spend many hours on my drill press and never gained much. My spindle has seen a lot of abuse over the years. I suspect it is bend in a few difference areas. A shorter spindle would be easier to deal with. Good luck
Comes apart easily. Almost like someone restored it! We've all been there, needing that video record. Advantages of UA-cam, you have a video record of pulling it apart! Glad it is working out. I would be curious what the runout is of other drill presses. I have actually never looked
I suspect the others might be just as bad. My mill might might be bad too. It sounds funny sometimes. I'd say most drill presses have a fair amount of run out.
Hey! I wonder if rebuilding the chuck would help. I've run into chucks that have 1 or more of the jaws damaged, causing run out problems. They are easy to rebuild, and not that expensive to do. Could make a big difference.
I think your strategy to eliminate the metal hammer damage was a good one. I have a feeling the real problem is a bent spindle. Who knows if some apprentice knocked that unit over or winched something pulling on it some time in the past. The cracked base you fixed is a possible clue here. I would like to put it across your milling machine table on V blocks and and rotate the shaft under a quill mounted dial indicator to discover any section with a hump. I may be biased here because I have in my possession a drill press with a known bent spindle that I've been putting off fixing. Not nearly as long a spindle as yours. I've straightened shafts using a milling machine as my indicator holder and surface plate. Going back and forth to the press slowly tweaking out the bend. Constantly remeasuring with the indicator in different places to keep track of the high spot. A spindle is the most delicate and important part of a drill press and you know that one has seen many different qualities of mechanics over the century.
I 100% agree about the bent spindle and the V blacks are a good idea. I also have a feeling it would have been a very long day getting the shaft straight. I don't think it is bent a lot but from what I was seeing I think its bend in different areas in different direction (wavy). Apparently I made the bend a little better. Before I did this I could feel the bend as I moved the quill up and down. .007" is fairly good if you ask me. I suspect most drill presses have at least that much or more. In fact I'd say my mill also has that much. I'm not going to check them! Ha, I don't want to deal with it. The .035"+ on the old drill press was just too much.
One hardly sees such a drill press - - except in my shop as well. I have a Canedy press with a #E-3 Procunier tap head on it 90% of the time. Not sure how to attach picture for you if even possible, and I think mine is older . Also, a 4-Jaw chuck would have allowed you to set dead on, and your 2MT reamer is worth gold as well!!
I don't think this was much better than doing the same thing in the drillpress with a dead center clamped in the vice. In the drillpress at least the shaft would've run in it's own bearings, which is the only surface that counts. With that much stickout the reamer would probably follow the hole anyway, even if you had chucked it solid. But hey, it turned out good enough, and we gotta make do with the tools we have on hand, at least until we buy bigger and better tools, right? I assume you checked the morse taper chuck arbor?
Ive got an old Champion camel back that needs the taper straightened out as well. Its got about .030 or better runout in it too, maybe more. Im thinking about just clamping a reamer in the vise and running the quill down onto it, letting it find its own center. I dont suppose I could ruin things very bad at 10 rpm with the backgears engaged.
Reamers tend to follow the wrong path but if the taper has some high spots it will help. I made a huge difference with a wrench just turning the reamer by hand.
Winky, Well worth the extra effort, you will probably find that your 0.007" runout on a 100 Year old drill, is less than a New Chinese Drill. Anything else lined up for the Winter Season, or is it twiddly your thumbs time ? Stay Safe and Don't forget to VOTE. Regards from Australia.
Hello Dave. Lets see.... I was thinking about building a tool grinder with a CBN grinding wheel and maybe a redesigned X Y table for both drill presses. I'd like to find a couple lower speed motors (1100 rpm) for both my drill presses or maybe 3 ph motors with VFDs. Both my drill presses turn to fast when drilling over about 3/8" in steel. Oh and maybe another car. That thing was fun to build!
@@WinkysWorkshop If you are thinking of a diamond tool grinder, have a look at this link. If you like it I have just built 2 with more options,1 I sent to England and should be showing on UA-cam in about 3 weeks. When that video is live I will send you a link. If you would like to make one like mine, give me a direct email address and I will send you pictures etc. or contact me dave90@adam.com.au ua-cam.com/video/GOBtH4m2TYo/v-deo.html
Winky I just noticed that you almost have 24 thousand subscribers. Your channel is really growing. .007 isn't bad for evan a new drill press, half of it could be in the chuck or arbor. If you tried a couple different clockings with the chuck or and arbor you might get it a little better. Before I started machining I would get my tools running well and all was fine, then I bought a dail indicator. Ever since then everything is barely good enough.
@@WinkysWorkshopSo alot of people came across your channel with the Buckboard Flyer series. It definitely was a interesting subject.That makes sense now, I was surprised when I noticed the amount of subscribers that you have now. Good for you Winky you certainly put out interesting comment. Talk with you later Andy
Wink one thing I had on a press of mine was the spindle was slightly bent. It happened when a piece wasn't secured and came loose. The take is the spindle was out a few inches. Not the best idea but i extended the spindle to the area of bend, a light whack of a three pound on the chuck. I used a piece of rubber belting as a cushion. Surprise is that it don't take much. Problem solved. I alway check the runout with a bit in the chuck. .002/.003 now. Might want to clean up the taper on the chuck too.
I probably didn't address the runout in the best way it worked. Thanks! This video was made a few years ago... still have the drill press. I make an associating spindel sander out of it. Of course I did it in a way that can be undone. I don't use it a lot but it's handy when I need it.
@@WinkysWorkshop I too only use the corrected press for rough or not so close work. I have another antique one that runs super true for the fine stuff. Thanks. Your video is real and that is a pleasure.
Nice to find these videos. I just acquired the same drill press and I've always admired your videos. My machine seems to vary a little bit in a few places. Did you ever figure out what model these are?
True... but in the end I'm okay with the results. I also should have borrowed the use of a lathe with a larger bore. Bored the taper?... like with a boring bar? I understand the logic but the results may not have been any better. I mean every OD I measured was significantly different. I supposed removing the bearing and holding the shaft where the bearing was would have been ideal but it the shaft at the upper bearing isn't concentric it would throw things off again.
@@WinkysWorkshop use a tool with the proper morse taper to set the compound at the correct angle and then bore your part. a reamer tends to follow an existing hole. there are videos online about it
@@ronalddavis - Yeah, I thought that's what you meant. I agree, it would have been better. Yes the reamer tends to follow the existing hole. I really would have needed a larger bore or steady rest which I do not have. In hindsight I should have chucked my reamer in the tail stock chuck. It might have made is less likely to follow the wrong path. I have cut tapers like this before. I set the tail stock angle with an existing taper and dial indicator. I need to put the steady rest on my list to make... I doubt I'll be getting a larger lathe . Ultimately, I'm okay with the results I got.
Is it possible to use the drill press as a vertical lathe to fix taper in situ? Gingery uses a the tailstock of his homemade lathe to bore the headstock main bearing seats. Thanks cool vid! sub'd.
Thanks! Really I should have done it a little different but I didn't have the right tools. I probably should have used a steady rest on my lathe and cut the taper instead of reaming it. Still the results were acceptable.
I can appreciate your efforts to tame the run out, but that drill press isn't what I would call a precision built model to start with. Any time you extend the length of the drive shaft, like this drill press has, you are inviting runout. If you are looking for very precise drillings, you need to get a well built milling setup. JMHO
I totally agree. I understand the logic of the length above the bearing but the 6+ inches below is not ideal. I love the quill travel however or I should say the dovetail slide on the quill. On the upper table you basically have 12-inches of quill travel and the lower table makes that number more like 2 feet. This is a logical design for doing drilling and reaming. Everything stay aligned. Modern drill presses with round columns are crude machines. Even if the run out is perfect their is wasted potential due to the round column.
Ha... a constant effort! As for my shop... the same. If it's not fairly clean I start loosing stuff. Quite often I stop everything and clean for 30 minutes just to find my 9/16 wrench or tape measure that I laid down in some random location.
Brass hammer? No.. Get yourself a Cook lead hammer.. You can beat the crap out of a shaft with that and it won't hurt it....I have the hammerhead mold for the cook 2# hammer so when the head gets too beat up, I just re pour it. Cheers from Louisiana.. Mike
@@WinkysWorkshop I like the idea of being able to use the type of lead you want for your lead hammer... I cast bullets from linotype lead and sometimes use that but it tends to splinter so softer lead is probably a bit better.. Cheers; Mike
@@WinkysWorkshop Kind of like ignoRAmus and IGnoramus. Feel free to pronounce proper nouns however you like. I kind of think you are beyond the point of thinking it matters.
I rebuilt a 1920’s Canedy-Otto drill press. It was a blast.
I love the old machine tools. The castings are a work of art. Made to rebuild so you can get another hundred years out of them.
I enjoyed this one too
Very cool! I agree about them being a work of art.
That is a nice old machine, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great repair Winky. That is probably as accurate as it has ever been.
I totally agree. I'm guessing many drill presses are about as bad
I do love your drill press. Glad you were able to improve the run out. Things normally come apart easier the second time.
The machine is good for many more years. Always nice to see a machine restored and given a new life.
Dave.
Thanks... Yeah, I love these old machines!
Thanks Mark. I love these old drill presses.
Your welcome. I love old machines. I didn't really need this drill press but I got it cheap. I'll probably dedicate it to woodworking.
Always improving on your machines. I totally like and enjoy watching!!! Thanks Winky!!!
Thanks Danny. This would have worked better if I had a larger bore on my lathe but the end results were plenty good for me.
@@WinkysWorkshop I would offer my lathe but it might be a fair piece to drive. I don't know where you live but Houston is where I am...
@@dannywilsher4165 Yeah... KY is a long ways from TX. But thanks for the offer.
I totally understand the "fanatical" thing.. I have been scratching my head the whole time I have owned the cochrane bly mill about where and how I was going to mount the motor. It's very important to me to not take away from the unique design of this odd ball mill. And a lot of the motors I have seen on them just look like a sore thumb..lol.. great job on the runout. Certainly not a job I would want to have to do . But I know I would definitely try to fix it too..lol
Thanks... I felt the same way about the motor on my 1931 south bend. I found a huge old repulsion induction. It's only 1/2 HP but must way 60 lbs!
Great job Winky, that is a lovely old drill press, they don't make them like that any more. Cheers!
Thanks 👍 Yeah, in some ways it's not as good (casting quality) but the overall design is much better than current drill presses.
The old ones are always the best ones.
I love the older stuff.
@@WinkysWorkshop I truly enjoy watching vintage machine rebuilds.
Nice job, on the repair Winky. In my experience all drill chucks will have runout to some degree. Considering the age of that machine and unknown abuse l would be very happy with the results you attained. Thanks for the post.
I totally agree. I'm good with the results. Thanks for watching!
Nothing is perfect - just some are more perfect than others.
The game is tolerance - mine has a run-out that vibrates the piece more than yours does (never measured it), "but for the women I go out with" (TM AvE) it works fine...it shits me, but really it works just fine.
Great video Winky - always look forward to them and this one was one of the better ones for me. Thanks.
Thanks Benny!
Hi Winky,
After watching this I may run a MT2 reamer on the headstock bore on my Myford... Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
Go slow... its super easy to take too much. I did that on a tale stock
I enjoy your videos and since I am in process of reconditioning a 1938 Walker Turner 13" drill press myself, the runout issue is one I am paying very much attention to. Mine is a 13" and high rpm and I hope to get better than 3thou TIR . Might be a tall order but I'm going through some pains to achieve the best I can. Thank you from North Carolina!
I could have spend many hours on my drill press and never gained much. My spindle has seen a lot of abuse over the years. I suspect it is bend in a few difference areas. A shorter spindle would be easier to deal with. Good luck
Comes apart easily. Almost like someone restored it!
We've all been there, needing that video record. Advantages of UA-cam, you have a video record of pulling it apart!
Glad it is working out. I would be curious what the runout is of other drill presses. I have actually never looked
I suspect the others might be just as bad. My mill might might be bad too. It sounds funny sometimes. I'd say most drill presses have a fair amount of run out.
Hey! I wonder if rebuilding the chuck would help. I've run into chucks that have 1 or more of the jaws damaged, causing run out problems. They are easy to rebuild, and not that expensive to do. Could make a big difference.
I have a couple of chucks but they were the same. The lathe chuck might be a backplate problem. I need to look into that
I think your strategy to eliminate the metal hammer damage was a good one. I have a feeling the real problem is a bent spindle. Who knows if some apprentice knocked that unit over or winched something pulling on it some time in the past. The cracked base you fixed is a possible clue here. I would like to put it across your milling machine table on V blocks and and rotate the shaft under a quill mounted dial indicator to discover any section with a hump. I may be biased here because I have in my possession a drill press with a known bent spindle that I've been putting off fixing. Not nearly as long a spindle as yours. I've straightened shafts using a milling machine as my indicator holder and surface plate. Going back and forth to the press slowly tweaking out the bend. Constantly remeasuring with the indicator in different places to keep track of the high spot. A spindle is the most delicate and important part of a drill press and you know that one has seen many different qualities of mechanics over the century.
I 100% agree about the bent spindle and the V blacks are a good idea. I also have a feeling it would have been a very long day getting the shaft straight. I don't think it is bent a lot but from what I was seeing I think its bend in different areas in different direction (wavy). Apparently I made the bend a little better. Before I did this I could feel the bend as I moved the quill up and down. .007" is fairly good if you ask me. I suspect most drill presses have at least that much or more. In fact I'd say my mill also has that much. I'm not going to check them! Ha, I don't want to deal with it. The .035"+ on the old drill press was just too much.
Glad to see that my suggestion help to some extent.
Thanks for the idea!
Great job wink, I love my buffalo drill it's a oldie but a goodie. Great video.
I love these old designs.
Great job man , Some of that 7 could be in the chuck to .. I say 7 is fine ! ENJOYED..
Thanks 👍 I agree!
Thanks for the update - looks good enough 👍👍😎👍👍
I agree, thanks!
Nice vídeo. I now have to check my drill press too.Greetings from São Paulo.
Don't do it. Then you have to fix it. Ha
Some of that run out could be in the chuck itself , nice repair .
Yeah... I'm okay with it anyway but you could be right.
One hardly sees such a drill press - - except in my shop as well. I have a Canedy press with a #E-3 Procunier tap head on it 90% of the time. Not sure how to attach picture for you if even possible, and I think mine is older . Also, a 4-Jaw chuck would have allowed you to set dead on, and your 2MT reamer is worth gold as well!!
Very cool drill press but I sold mine maybe 4 month ago. I now have a 1917 Avey.
Hi another great video on how to thank you, cheers mate
No problem 👍 Glad you liked it
I don't think this was much better than doing the same thing in the drillpress with a dead center clamped in the vice. In the drillpress at least the shaft would've run in it's own bearings, which is the only surface that counts. With that much stickout the reamer would probably follow the hole anyway, even if you had chucked it solid.
But hey, it turned out good enough, and we gotta make do with the tools we have on hand, at least until we buy bigger and better tools, right?
I assume you checked the morse taper chuck arbor?
I agree. Most the damage was at the end where somebody hit it with a hammer. I looked at the arbor and it looked good and another chuck did the same.
Ive got an old Champion camel back that needs the taper straightened out as well. Its got about .030 or better runout in it too, maybe more. Im thinking about just clamping a reamer in the vise and running the quill down onto it, letting it find its own center. I dont suppose I could ruin things very bad at 10 rpm with the backgears engaged.
Reamers tend to follow the wrong path but if the taper has some high spots it will help. I made a huge difference with a wrench just turning the reamer by hand.
Winky, Well worth the extra effort, you will probably find that your 0.007" runout on a 100 Year old drill, is less than a New Chinese Drill. Anything else lined up for the Winter Season, or is it twiddly your thumbs time ? Stay Safe and Don't forget to VOTE. Regards from Australia.
Hello Dave. Lets see.... I was thinking about building a tool grinder with a CBN grinding wheel and maybe a redesigned X Y table for both drill presses. I'd like to find a couple lower speed motors (1100 rpm) for both my drill presses or maybe 3 ph motors with VFDs. Both my drill presses turn to fast when drilling over about 3/8" in steel. Oh and maybe another car. That thing was fun to build!
@@WinkysWorkshop If you are thinking of a diamond tool grinder, have a look at this link. If you like it I have just built 2 with more options,1 I sent to England and should be showing on UA-cam in about 3 weeks. When that video is live I will send you a link. If you would like to make one like mine, give me a direct email address and I will send you pictures etc. or contact me dave90@adam.com.au ua-cam.com/video/GOBtH4m2TYo/v-deo.html
Winky I just noticed that you almost have 24 thousand subscribers. Your channel is really growing. .007 isn't bad for evan a new drill press, half of it could be in the chuck or arbor. If you tried a couple different clockings with the chuck or and arbor you might get it a little better. Before I started machining I would get my tools running well and all was fine, then I bought a dail indicator. Ever since then everything is barely good enough.
Those darn dial indicators ruin everything! Ha Yeah, I picked up a bunch of subscribers with my Buckboard Flyer videos People loved the car!
@@WinkysWorkshopSo alot of people came across your channel with the Buckboard Flyer series. It definitely was a interesting subject.That makes sense now, I was surprised when I noticed the amount of subscribers that you have now. Good for you Winky you certainly put out interesting comment. Talk with you later Andy
Wink one thing I had on a press of mine was the spindle was slightly bent. It happened when a piece wasn't secured and came loose. The take is the spindle was out a few inches. Not the best idea but i extended the spindle to the area of bend, a light whack of a three pound on the chuck. I used a piece of rubber belting as a cushion. Surprise is that it don't take much. Problem solved. I alway check the runout with a bit in the chuck. .002/.003 now.
Might want to clean up the taper on the chuck too.
I probably didn't address the runout in the best way it worked. Thanks! This video was made a few years ago... still have the drill press. I make an associating spindel sander out of it. Of course I did it in a way that can be undone. I don't use it a lot but it's handy when I need it.
@@WinkysWorkshop I too only use the corrected press for rough or not so close work. I have another antique one that runs super true for the fine stuff. Thanks. Your video is real and that is a pleasure.
@@MrOiluj52 Thanks you sir!
Nice to find these videos. I just acquired the same drill press and I've always admired your videos. My machine seems to vary a little bit in a few places. Did you ever figure out what model these are?
Thanks! No I never found the model or even a picture that is exactly the same. Apparently they made a lot of variation.
I thought the disassembly tool was a steel hammer? Probably could use a better center but we all use what we have.
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Excellent job ;-)
Thanks
shold have lined up the taisltock after finding a working fourjaw and then BORED the taper
True... but in the end I'm okay with the results. I also should have borrowed the use of a lathe with a larger bore. Bored the taper?... like with a boring bar? I understand the logic but the results may not have been any better. I mean every OD I measured was significantly different. I supposed removing the bearing and holding the shaft where the bearing was would have been ideal but it the shaft at the upper bearing isn't concentric it would throw things off again.
@@WinkysWorkshop use a tool with the proper morse taper to set the compound at the correct angle and then bore your part. a reamer tends to follow an existing hole. there are videos online about it
@@ronalddavis - Yeah, I thought that's what you meant. I agree, it would have been better. Yes the reamer tends to follow the existing hole. I really would have needed a larger bore or steady rest which I do not have. In hindsight I should have chucked my reamer in the tail stock chuck. It might have made is less likely to follow the wrong path. I have cut tapers like this before. I set the tail stock angle with an existing taper and dial indicator. I need to put the steady rest on my list to make... I doubt I'll be getting a larger lathe . Ultimately, I'm okay with the results I got.
Is it possible to use the drill press as a vertical lathe to fix taper in situ? Gingery uses a the tailstock of his homemade lathe to bore the headstock main bearing seats. Thanks cool vid! sub'd.
Not a bad idea but alignment would be the hard part. The bearing fit was easy with the locktite.
Good job
Thanks, I should have had a larger lathe but it worked out.
Made it 4 or 5 times better!! Good fix!!
Thanks, I'm good with it.
Sweet! I was wondering how you where going to repair it
Thanks! Really I should have done it a little different but I didn't have the right tools. I probably should have used a steady rest on my lathe and cut the taper instead of reaming it. Still the results were acceptable.
@@WinkysWorkshop i think you did just fine with what you are working with. I would be surprised if it was that close from the factory
I can appreciate your efforts to tame the run out, but that drill press isn't what I would call a precision built model to start with. Any time you extend the length of the drive shaft, like this drill press has, you are inviting runout. If you are looking for very precise drillings, you need to get a well built milling setup. JMHO
I totally agree. I understand the logic of the length above the bearing but the 6+ inches below is not ideal. I love the quill travel however or I should say the dovetail slide on the quill. On the upper table you basically have 12-inches of quill travel and the lower table makes that number more like 2 feet. This is a logical design for doing drilling and reaming. Everything stay aligned. Modern drill presses with round columns are crude machines. Even if the run out is perfect their is wasted potential due to the round column.
Quite nice indeed.
Thanks!
what i want to no is how do stay so clean
Ha... a constant effort! As for my shop... the same. If it's not fairly clean I start loosing stuff. Quite often I stop everything and clean for 30 minutes just to find my 9/16 wrench or tape measure that I laid down in some random location.
FIRST Hi Winky 👍
Thanks FIRST!
Make yourself a brass or copper hammer
Yep... I need to
What Harold said!!
Thanks... I think, now I can't find Harold's comment!
A little OCD on that runout lol.. its all good I do the same thing. Try to make everything. 0001 or less. Then I remember it was not that good new
So true.
@@WinkysWorkshop still like what your doing keep up the good work. Maybe someday I will get everything together and start a Chanel my self
@@josephlovell6951 - I enjoy the youtube channel I have. Go for it!
I'm from Vietnam
Thanks for watching!
👍👍👍
Thanks
Brass hammer? No.. Get yourself a Cook lead hammer.. You can beat the crap out of a shaft with that and it won't hurt it....I have the hammerhead mold for the cook 2# hammer so when the head gets too beat up, I just re pour it. Cheers from Louisiana.. Mike
Good idea!
@@WinkysWorkshop I like the idea of being able to use the type of lead you want for your lead hammer... I cast bullets from linotype lead and sometimes use that but it tends to splinter so softer lead is probably a bit better.. Cheers; Mike
CANedy not caNEdy
TOmato or toMATO
@@WinkysWorkshop Kind of like ignoRAmus and IGnoramus. Feel free to pronounce proper nouns however you like. I kind of think you are beyond the point of thinking it matters.
@@samshublom8761 Yeah... I thought it was funny, Thanks