Thanks for all the work you put into this video!! I so appreciate your attention to detail and professionalism!! Interestingly another YT video measured the runout on a dunlap/ craftsman press which had bronze bearings and almost 0 runout! Have you experienced this with the dunlap drill presses ???
Really informative video Jeff... I appreciate your explanation of the different bearing shieldings and the tolerance classification... Very enlightening...
Thanks for the clear, concise explanation. I, in fact, was measuring run-out on the chuck and I had the dial indicator at an angle. This was the first time ever using a dial indicator for me. Looks like I'll get some more practice in after I remove the chuck, which will be after i figure out how to remove the chuck.
Thank you and I have a video that covers removing the chuck and almost everything you could ever need to know about the Jacob’s Chuck. Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/0_ccoDNwGio/v-deo.htmlsi=FqdSw4xezEAkPATF
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. so I saw another one out in the wild for an excellent price. I need another project like i need...I hate the thought of these items landing in a dump. Would you jump? They do not make em like this anymore.
Thank you for watching. Absolutely, I purchase Classic Craftsman Drill Presses anytime I find them and the condition and price are right. Of all the tools I rebuild, the drill press is what I enjoy working on the most.
Jeff, excellent work on creating this video series. By far, you have the best information. I believe in one of your final videos you have a light installed. It appears to be very bright. Do you have any pictures of how you mounted it and what brand of light you used. Thanks again my friend.
Thank you Jim. I responded to your question from the private mail on Garage Journal Forum. I heavily modify the head and fabricate a light to work in the 100/150 series. Its not smoothing that most people could do. In the future I may do a short series on how to fabricate a more universal light for my viewers. For now I recommend a magnetic tool light similar to this one: www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lumens-Machine-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B0B3VV3V1K/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=27I75V3S9OHRV&keywords=drill%2Bpress%2Blight&qid=1697990827&sprefix=drill%2Bpress%2Bligh%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
I appreciate all the information here, this channel is a amazing resource for vintage tool owners! I isolated the run out to my spindle. But I don’t have a lathe hold the spindle to wack it back into alignment. Any suggestions on how I can fix this problem? Background: spindle has no run out where bottom barring would be. Run out starts where the bottom collar is, where the bottom bearing sits.
@@Jayspiesaresquared applying heat is ok but dont get carried away. I have never used heat to bend a spindle, only to remove a stuck chuck or remove the blind taper pin holding the thrust collar. Assuming the bend is minor, heat should not be needed.
Nice description of bearings and diagnosis of runout, and where it tends to come from on these guys- thanks for this video! Very helpful. Love the deadblow correction method! I hope I'm not nitpicking here, just clarifying- All of your measurements for the runout are really in thousandths of an inch (.001") and not hundred thousandths (.00001"), correct? There were a few measurements called out in hundred thousandths
Thank you, and you are correct the measurements were all in thousandths or an inch .001 and I probably did slip up and say hundred thousandths a few times. I get tongue tied when using those terms at times.
I was wondering wouldn’t it have made more sense for Vintage Craftsman machines to have used the 1623 (Outer Diameter x Bore x Width 1-3/8”x 5/8” x 7/16”) Bearing instead of the 6202 with a specially oversized 5/8” bore for the Bearings or is this one of those things that original manufacturing just designed around parts that were readily in abundance?
Outstanding Question! Unfortunately, we will never get a definitive answer; however, I believe you are correct that the bearings (6205 special bore 5/8”) were widely available. They are used on several other Craftsman power tools made by King Seeley and inside some motors. I believe a similar situation also include the use of water pump/ shaft bearings used in the 6” x 42” belt sander and the 12” band saws (Both 2-sheel and 3-wheel).
I have not done a video on it yet. My vise is a vintage AMC Float Lock Vise; however, Wahlstrom has the patent now and they are sold by the Penn Tool Company. They are not cheap, like $349.95 or more. If you get one for a drill press you want model number M1-89-18-9.
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for all the work you put into this video!! I so appreciate your attention to detail and professionalism!! Interestingly another YT video measured the runout on a dunlap/ craftsman press which had bronze bearings and almost 0 runout! Have you experienced this with the dunlap drill presses ???
Great job of explaining the subject and how to fix runout!
Thanks Flash.
Really informative video Jeff...
I appreciate your explanation of the different bearing shieldings and the tolerance classification...
Very enlightening...
thank you
Thanks for the clear, concise explanation. I, in fact, was measuring run-out on the chuck and I had the dial indicator at an angle. This was the first time ever using a dial indicator for me. Looks like I'll get some more practice in after I remove the chuck, which will be after i figure out how to remove the chuck.
Thank you and I have a video that covers removing the chuck and almost everything you could ever need to know about the Jacob’s Chuck. Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/0_ccoDNwGio/v-deo.htmlsi=FqdSw4xezEAkPATF
I appreciate this Jeff, great insight.
You are welcome and thank you for watching.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. so I saw another one out in the wild for an excellent price. I need another project like i need...I hate the thought of these items landing in a dump. Would you jump? They do not make em like this anymore.
Thank you for watching. Absolutely, I purchase Classic Craftsman Drill Presses anytime I find them and the condition and price are right. Of all the tools I rebuild, the drill press is what I enjoy working on the most.
Jeff, excellent work on creating this video series.
By far, you have the best information.
I believe in one of your final videos you have a light installed. It appears to be very bright. Do you have any pictures of how you mounted it and what brand of light you used.
Thanks again my friend.
Thank you Jim. I responded to your question from the private mail on Garage Journal Forum. I heavily modify the head and fabricate a light to work in the 100/150 series. Its not smoothing that most people could do. In the future I may do a short series on how to fabricate a more universal light for my viewers. For now I recommend a magnetic tool light similar to this one: www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lumens-Machine-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B0B3VV3V1K/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=27I75V3S9OHRV&keywords=drill%2Bpress%2Blight&qid=1697990827&sprefix=drill%2Bpress%2Bligh%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
I appreciate all the information here, this channel is a amazing resource for vintage tool owners!
I isolated the run out to my spindle. But I don’t have a lathe hold the spindle to wack it back into alignment. Any suggestions on how I can fix this problem?
Background: spindle has no run out where bottom barring would be. Run out starts where the bottom collar is, where the bottom bearing sits.
You will need to secure the spindle, you can place it in a vise or clamp it to a flat surface.
Thanks Jeff, would applying heat to the taper be okay or would that deform the part too much?
@@Jayspiesaresquared applying heat is ok but dont get carried away. I have never used heat to bend a spindle, only to remove a stuck chuck or remove the blind taper pin holding the thrust collar. Assuming the bend is minor, heat should not be needed.
Nice description of bearings and diagnosis of runout, and where it tends to come from on these guys- thanks for this video! Very helpful. Love the deadblow correction method!
I hope I'm not nitpicking here, just clarifying- All of your measurements for the runout are really in thousandths of an inch (.001") and not hundred thousandths (.00001"), correct? There were a few measurements called out in hundred thousandths
Thank you, and you are correct the measurements were all in thousandths or an inch .001 and I probably did slip up and say hundred thousandths a few times. I get tongue tied when using those terms at times.
I was wondering wouldn’t it have made more sense for Vintage Craftsman machines to have used the 1623 (Outer Diameter x Bore x Width 1-3/8”x 5/8” x 7/16”) Bearing instead of the 6202 with a specially oversized 5/8” bore for the Bearings or is this one of those things that original manufacturing just designed around parts that were readily in abundance?
Outstanding Question! Unfortunately, we will never get a definitive answer; however, I believe you are correct that the bearings (6205 special bore 5/8”) were widely available. They are used on several other Craftsman power tools made by King Seeley and inside some motors. I believe a similar situation also include the use of water pump/ shaft bearings used in the 6” x 42” belt sander and the 12” band saws (Both 2-sheel and 3-wheel).
@jeffshop do you cover the vise you are @15:07 in any of your videos ? What type of a vise setup is that ? Thanks!
I have not done a video on it yet. My vise is a vintage AMC Float Lock Vise; however, Wahlstrom has the patent now and they are sold by the Penn Tool Company. They are not cheap, like $349.95 or more. If you get one for a drill press you want model number M1-89-18-9.
DO YOU REBUILD CRAFTSMAN DRILL PRESS
I do. I am in Georgia.
How do I get hold of you
@@JackMattson-ts3mt go to my UA-cam Channel page then click on the links section at the top then view email.
Thats a tap,not a "milling bit".Jesus
Yes it is a tap and yes I called it a mill bit.