THIS Is What Can Happen If You Use a Drill Press as a Router
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- Ever wonder if a drill press can be used as a router, in a pinch? Same here. Today we're finding out what might happen if you try use a router bit in a drill press.
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For setting the height to remove, you could have set the quill stop to the current height of the insert then put an extra piece of the plastic underneath to raise it by exactly the thickness required with no eyeball work
This video just came up in my YT feed, just 2 hours after I had damaged (not fully ruined) a workpiece by using an end mill in my Mini Mill mounted in a Jakobs chuck instead of correctly holding it in a collet chuck. Even mounted firmly in the Jakobs chuck after some passes side milling (lateral forces!) the end mil became loose and damaged the recess I was milling as well as part of a machine vise jaw! Lesson learnt: Jakobs chucks are not designed for lateral forces!
The chuck / morse taper isn't the only thing that isn't designed for lateral movement. Depending on the type of bearings on the spindle, those might be exposed to unintended stress, wearing them out prematurely.
actually it is a Jacobs taper that the chuck has, a Morse taper is much longer and would possibly be the taper going into the spindle, depending on the drill press.
@@ypaulbrown
Neither a Morse Taper or a Jacobs Taper is meant for lateral forces. On milling machines that use Morse Taper collets the collets are held in with a draw bar through the spindle. Also the bearings in a drill press are designed to take an axial load. Not a radial one.
@@mpetersen6 I know, I only stated what the tapers were, please read my comment below this one. Paul
the bearings will be just fine, they hold 10k hrs with correct load and 9k with incorrect, neither of wich a home owned machine will ever see and even if, those bearings are dirt cheap to repace.
He was face cutting, taking thickness off the plate; so the lateral force is very little in this example; comparable to drilling. But for side cutting, yeah, probably not the best depending on your brand of drill press.
Good cautionary advice you gave! A few years back, I had the chuck fall out (B16 taper) when attempting a similar stunt with my drill press. Only a minor scratch on a finger, but the work was completely ruined. It's amazing how easily chucks fall off with lateral force, when they are so hard to come out when you want them to.
Jose, I had the same thing happen while trying to cut a groove for a fence gate latch. Using the wrong tool for a job is never a good option. Lesson learned.
@@christopherpavlicas Yep. Seems we only learn the hard way - I knew it was wrong and why it was wrong, but I still had to try it 🙂
I did not know that they could fall off that way. It's good to know. When I put the chuck on my drill press I sort of figured it would be impossible to ever get off again.
Now here is a real work horse! It can be used as a drill press ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE for fine work; use a jig, set it in the horizontal position and cut-off steel wire (or pipe if you need to) at precise measurements. I used it on my Radio Control Boat building to shorten the motor drive shaft (stainless steel) by 1 5/8" then soften the cut edge.While jigs are necessary for a lot of work and the workstation must be fastened down for safety, the right jig and your imagination are the only limits I can think of. I'm going to try some routing by building a base with a 90 degree fence and router bit slot and make some fancy cuts using the Dremel router bits (just watch direction of feed, just like a big router)!
I was going to try this myself a few years ago. I had the drill press set at high speed and had the bit in the chuck. But, I "chickened out". Visions of flying, razor sharp, carbide-tipped router bit fragments freaked me out. Haha. I still use your jig-less spline miter technique for picture frames. I use my table saw tenoning jig to hold everything in position. Works everytime. Thanks.
Yep….improvised claymore mine.
38 yrs of woodworking and never worried about router bits shattering.
Exactly the right way to get chewed up with a high speed router bit, Jamie. I'm glad that you didn't have a problem. But the taper inside that Jacobs chuck won't take much side loading like that to show you just how much meat it could take off of you...
.
Nice work, Jamie.
Stay with the "Right Tool" for the job and always be safe! thanks
As a Shopsmith owner. this is one area it really excels. The bearings can take axial and radial loads, unlike a drill press. As can the chuck mounting. And it has router chucks to hold the bit, which unlike a Jacob's chuck have no problem with side load.
My question is, is it possible to use a router as a drill press?
I'm new to woodworking, and i need to do some prototypes for which I'll need a router, but i also need to punch a couple of straight holes in it, and i wonder if i can save some money and space using the router as a drill.
@@giacomoneri1782 How will you center it over the exact place you want to drill?
Good video. I have not thought about the chuck coming loose. Glad you had that insight from sanding before attempting this experiment.
Another reason not to use the drill press is the amount of exposure of the router bit. One could make a guard for it, but again, if the chuck comes loose, the guard will do little help.
Straight cut router bits, worked great in a drill press for me in the past. My application was to mill out a round spring pocket in aluminum, I used a drill press vise, and cut was just vertical. I've also used V cut router bits as 90 degree countersinks in aluminum. This worked better than a few countersink bits I've used.
7:30 really glad you touched on how the quillion that holds the chuck in place is a tapered cone fitment & how side load can loosen that connection.
I’m glad this worked for you. It could have gone badly. Drill chucks are designed for downward (inward) pressure. I have had them loosen to the point of having drill bits fall out of hand drills while running because I often withdraw the bit from a hole while the bit is running to clear chips. I re-tighten the chuck every few holes when I do this because the bit will unscrew from the chuck due to the outward force of withdrawal (away from the drill). I noticed comments about the chuck coming off. Not surprising. The treading is all made to tighten with downward pressure. It loosens with upward pressure..
Having done this before *ahem* professionally....... A couple notes.
1 moving the table up instead of the quill down frees your other hand for holding the work and increases stability of the tool head.
2 helical cutters reduce cutting load, and thus vibration and unintentional damage, but upcutting works against the Morse taper, so down cutting with good chip extraction, no slots
3 fully supported cuts only, no coping.
4 if you plan to do it more than a little, which I don't recommend, reducing the vibration of the body by bolting it to a wall is really helpful as well.
There are usually work arounds for most of what we do. Deciding on whether or not they are practical or safe can lead to interesting things happening in the shop.
after some spilled blood , { minor } I try not to do that anymore.
This is very interesting to see. Over here in Europe people are buying the "Wabeco Drilling Milling" stand. And because the stand uses the Euro 43mm mount you can mount drills and milling motors. Thus Drilling and Milling stand. I have one and for drilling purposes I use the Bosch GSB 21-2 RCT, this drill is very powerful and can spin very slow. Also the button layout is great for the stand. Wabeco also have great attachments you can even make a small wood turning setup with it.
I’m a firm believer in the right tool for the right job. Glad you didn’t get hurt but I was nervous the entire 5pm you were doing that.
As a H&S Officer I think you are defeating the object, Showing people something that can cause real harm is off the scale no matter how many times you say in your video I don't recommend it. I'm shocked at you....
Robbie from Huyton Liverpool UK..
Thank God you ended with saying you don't recommend this, LOL. I was thinking the whole time, someone is going to destroy their drill press, glad you explained that.
Back in the early 80's I had a very small shop space and I ended up buying a Shopsmith. One of the basic functions was a drill press. One of the accessories was an adapter for 1/2" shank router bits. You took off the drill chuck and replaced it with the adapter and bit. The mechanical operation of the Shopsmith appeared to be the same as a regular drill press but I had it apart and my memory is that my regular drill press was far more robust than the Shopsmith so I believe that, as you found, the drill press did fine. Chuck retention might be another issue. Funny enough the Shopsmith has been gone for almost 30 years but sitting in my router bit case is that very same adapter and the bits; unused since then. Have to pull them out and give them a try. Thanks for some very good videos!
Most drill presses do not have any strength lateraly so you are putting a heavy load on parts of the drill press it wasn't designed for. It will work for a while but it is a good way to ruin a good drill press.
He literally says that in the last minute of the video.
Interesting stuff and it works , I had too use an SDS drill bit n a normal chuck it didn’t fit, after cutting off the SDS parts it worked fine , it’s good to know these tool cross over tips ……thank you
Do as I say but not as I do! Great lesson honestly
I agree the right tool for the job is best but light weight router work with floor mount drill press can be safe with correct setup. Suggest you pick up a shopsmith router chuck which you can attach to a Morris taper. Grind an angled ramp faced down and away from the end on the Morris taper adapter so that the chuck set screws lock in safely. Use a bit Shield and full face shield for safety against flying bits. Now with the use of a CNC bit you can do all kinds of free hand carving. Love your tips. Keep them coming.
Knew this but now I am wondering about the shop fox oscillating drill press. It is designed to be used as a sander that has a mechanism to auto shift the drill head up and down.
There a several YT vids where pillar drills are fitted with a home made spool sander drum…it works of course, but the same risk of breaking the morse taper lock and damaging the the thrust bearings is always there. Don’t do any side loading of a drill’s quill unless you don’t care about your tools or the risk of a heavy rotating chuck flying out….
I've had that question in my thoughts for sometime too. Thanks.
The Morse taper is what found in many drill presses. Yep they are not designed for side loads as you discovered! 🤣🛫
Get a Shopsmith, you can pick them up cheap used. They do an awesome job being a drill press, router, table saw, lathe, etc.
A delightful feature of modern push-fit taper mounts instead of a proper solid mount with key chuck.
Using a Safe-T-Planer bit is probably the best way to do this. They've been around for many years and are purposely designed to be used laterally on your drill press.
I knew a luthier would mention the Safe-T-Planer.
The well-known luthier supply company that I work for sells the Safe-T-Planer; it is a popular product and would be my first choice if I were to attempt milling with my drill press. Personally, I'll stick to using my router table for this kind of work.
For light cuts, there's not much difference between a router bit and an end mill you would use in a milling machine. I've heard of machinists using roundover bits on aluminum, and I've made light cuts in aluminum with a router. But, as you said, drill presses don't have the chuck (actually collet) and bearings of a milling machine. I've also cut mortises in wood in the milling machine, though very slow due to max RPM of 2000. Router table would be the right tool for this job. Maybe even a belt sander? Somebody's going to try this with less care and find out how much flesh a sharp bit can remove as the chuck comes loose...
Yup, I’m a professional and ticketed machinist. I can confirm that router bits and even circular blades can cut aluminum when done carefully
There are too many better ways to do this. Drum sander, router table, table saw, hand router plane to name a few. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Thanks for the video on what can be done in a pinch, but not recommended. I think I'd have set the drill press table at the right height, to use two hands on the material. Of course, in my case I think I'll stick to the (less scary) router table.
When Adam Savage rebuilt his drill press, he pointed out that his chuck has a threaded collar matching the threads at the base of the spindle's taper, and that it is specifically for retaining the chuck under lateral forces when using a sanding drum. Without the threaded coupling the chuck won't stay on the taper when side-loaded.
I use a router bit in the drill press when I want to cut a slot in extruded aluminum material. I mount the aluminum piece in a dual axis drill press vise and move the bit through the work with the screws on the vise like a milling machine.
i was nervous with you, but i'm glad it worked out for you. stay safe buddy
One of my early tools was a shopsmith mark 5 one of the setups was an overhead router using the drill press
You should look for a collet attachment for your drill press that way you can put things like router bits in it safely and sand in it safely, maybe this old Tony or diresta can make something for your drill press?
Honestly good to get that curiousity scratching scratched haha.
I did that 50 years ago in high school. The teacher was impressed!
Just put two strips side by side on top of your throat plate so the entire surface is covered , then cut the bottom for a flush fit.
No raised middle section from a single strip of tape that way .
Thanks. You sated my curiosity as well, as this was something I wanted to try as well!
It worked because the diameter of the router bit was far narrower than the diameter of the chuck and because you were working with a grain less engineered product. Make the but wider or use a hardwood and your creating a hazardous situation. Although there used to be a product called a Safety Planer that was designed to work on the drill press and could be used to plane a workpiece flat. It was supposedly very safe even though it was wide and to be used on all varieties of wood . I never saw it in action, but it's always safest to use the right tool for the right job.
Thank you for curbing my curiosity as well! Now I don’t feel like I have to try it out myself lol
I appreciate the experimentation, and the very appropriate warnings. Note that the final product came out too short by the thickness of the backing paper, as you would expect.
I cut a nautilus spiral in a wooden snail shell by drawing the spiral and following the pencil line with a 7/64" drill bit in the drill press like a groove bit. It had effect. Very light passes.
I’ve used my drill bit as a pattern following router for years. It’s the safest way to do precise small work. Just take a drill bit blank 1/8”and grind the end at a 45 degree angle. Chuck up the bit. Turn up the speed to 3000rpm. You can put your hand on the bit no problems, luthiers have been doing this for years. I raise my table in increments to get the depth I need.
Woops “drill press”
Should’ve began with “Hey Y’all watch this”. 😀
*NEWS FLASH:* From the engineering and metal working fraternity.
DON'T PUT LATERAL TOOLING (as in tools you cut sideways with) in standard drill chucks *ITS DANGEROUS.*
1) The Jacobs arbors and screw threaded arbors they are attached with are NOT designed for side (lateral) machining like Morse tapers and "N" tapers are.
2) The 3 jaws in drill chucks are NOT designed for side (lateral) machining. This is why things like *collet chucks* were invented.
3) The spindles in drill presses are NOT designed for side (lateral) machining. This is why equivalent sized milling machines are 3 to 10x the cost. The spindle bearings in a drill or drill press are substantially less than those in routers, die grinders and mills which are designed for side (lateral) machining loads.
4) Using tools in chucks not designed for them can snap tools or the tools can simply fly out of the chuck. Either way you can have shrapnel flying around.
Occasionally you will see some professional machinists use a milling cutter in a standard drill chuck on a lathe or mill. Listen to what they warn about the practice and *note they only plunge cut* (like cut a counterbore for a cap head screw) with it - *they don't machine sideways.*
*DON'T DO THIS* Safety is always about tomorrow. -> Is it better to finish the job tomorrow or be in hospital tomorrow?
I've done more machining than wood working and the moment I saw the title of this video I cringed for all of the reasons you listed above. I can not up vote you enough. He should remove this video or edit this video with a follow up with all of the dangers you listed.
@@TheDavemarz I'm an engineer who has worked on mine site construction for most of the last 20 years and was in manufacturing for about 16 years before that.
This is the sort of behavior that would get you kicked out/off of MOST of the sites I have worked.
Everyone knows about the medical costs, repairs costs & legal costs, but few people have ever costed the lost production and when they have its been staggering. Those production costs go straight to the bonus system for managers. *You can get away with just about anything these days EXCEPT threatening a managers bonuses.*
Glad to see you using the GRR-RIPPER to keep your fingers safe during your experiment! Instead of having the GRR-RIPPER Tilted, you could have used the Balance Support that came with it to keep the pushblock level which will GREATLY improve the holding power of the legs since they will be flat. We can get you any parts you may be missing.
Most drill presses simply do not run a high enough RPM to safely use a router bit. 10,000 RPM would be the bare minimum, and a 1/2" bit like yours is recommended to run at 12-14,000. You were removing very little so it worked, but this is a very risky cut.
Hey, thanks for the feedback, guys! I've been using the GRR-RIPPER for years. It's one of my most recommended safety items. I do have the support, but in this situation it would have put my hand too close to the chuck, and I needed more clearance. And honestly, the tape was quick and easy. But thank you for the recommendation.
Agreed, it is a risky cut, which is why I said several times that I don't recommend anyone else trying it. But at only .021" removal of what is essentially MDF, there was very little side load and no grain to pull or push one way or another. Still sketchy either way! And definitely something I wouldn't suggest others to do.
@@InspireWoodcraft Keeping your hand away from things that want to bite you is why the GRR-RIPPER exists!
Next time try moving the handle of the GRR-RIPPER to the side. So the Balance Support would put the legs flat on your workpiece, and the handle could be moved toward you, away from the chuck.
so i want to see you try a round over bit in a hand drill, lol but i dont want you to get hurt, but this is entertaining.. thanks for video taping yourself doing something stupid lol, those are my favorite genre
Dead on commentary! You covered all of my thoughts of warnings.
I think I’ll give that a go thanks
There are many things wrong with this approach: bearings not meant for lateral loads is the obvious one, but rpms WAY too low is the next issue. If you can't increase the rpms, you need to use a "sharper" bit - a HSS downcut bit would improve safety and surface quality a lot.
I wondered the same thing. StewMac has a planer bit for a drill press, but given the much higher side torque with it, since it’s quite large, that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Thanks for posting, new subscriber here!
Been there, done that.... If you think using at as a router is bad, don't try milling metal... The chuck occassionally get's thrown when the jacobs taper breaks free.
Yep, something I have pondered over. Ta for showing me instead 👍
I have a Shopsmith, made to be a router and drum sander as well as a drill press. A used older Mark 5 can be only a few hundred bucks. I gave $200 for mine and also have the bandsaw and jigsaw attachments. Jacob chucks are terrible for holding router bits, you need a collet chuck.
Thanks for doing this. Very informative.
I used a router bit in the drill press before but I just did a plunge cut with a round nose bit to make a round bottomed hole in a peice of wood that was small so I had to use a drill press vice to hold it any how so using the drill press made sure the bit went straight down and had no chance of hitting the vice jaws.
Wen Products, who makes the drill press I own, recommended to me against using my press as a router/mill because the bearings are not designed for lateral stresses. Cool video!
I use a cross-vise to hold my stock on a drill press and I then I find it safe to use with router bits. I run the drill press at top speed when I do this - a few thousand RPM at least. I go slow and use the cross vise to move the stock around. It works very well with very hard woods because they are kind of brittle. But, it doesn't work well with softer woods because they flex and don't cut cleanly. That leads to chattering which is made worse because the drill press doesn't have great side-load strength. I use router bits to machine wood. I've made sliding dovetails and I've flattened the tops of my bandsaw guide blocks.
prepreration is key
i had to do this in my work a couple of times with aluminium and a milling bit
set the pressdrill to highest speed, set the height of the table and the workpiece, drive the workpiece throught against the rotation
works fine, if you know how and for a few millimeters
but i would suggest that to anyone else without the knowledge
Excellent. Curiosity leads to a lot of great things.... great explanation.
Nice. Feather boards for extra safety wouldn’t be a bad idea.
FYI. A router bit with a 2mm (1/12") diameter head at 18,000 RPM would have any point on it's circumference with a velocity of 113m/s.
BUT my dovetail bit with diameter of 12.7mm (1/2") would only need 2,835 RPM to achieve the same tip velocity.
SOOOOOO the pillar drill at max revs (+-1,500) is definitely in the ballpark re RPM for router bits with greater diameters. Also it has the benefit of you having a better top view of what you are doing.
Hold my Beer, watch this... You have a nice router table. why not put the same bit in the router, raise it just above the table, set the fence and route it?
My thoughts exactly!!!
ROFL really! Hold my beer, watch this ...
It is a perfect sollution for having the same material left over no matter your piece thickness. Just like a radial arm saw.
Because he wouldn't be able to make a video about it
Video: explicitly states that he knows there are better ways to do this but always wanted to try it
This guy: hurr Durr could have used the router table hurr durr
Cool experiment, and glad it worked for you. Curious if putting a strip of the yellow tape material on the miter saw table parallel to the cutting slot, a few inches either side would have worked so the entire surface of the saw table was built up to level....but I'm always looking for the easy way out. And it wouldn't be good material for a video....
probably would work in a way but then again you wouldn't be safe for all cases if you wouldn't plaster the whole table with that tape
You have the ability to clamp down the chuck in it's lowered position using that blue knob set screw. And instead of making a mark on the side of the throat plate you could have just lowered the chuck to zero out out against the plate, then set your chuck lock... Then temporarily place another piece of that plastic under the plate and ran it through.
Before I had a collection of routers, I used the accessory end of my radial arm saw to rout. Worked, but didn’t give a finished surface.
Good take. That will keep me from trying this. I probably would have started with something similar to the work you did.
seems like it would have been easier and safer to mount the insert to the plywood and slide the plywood. I have seen too many try and use a drill chuck for milling metal in a milling machine instead of using a collet or end mill holder,,,,,,,it is always fun to see that chuck fall off after telling them it will not work.......you can use an end mill holder or collet to drill though.......nice experiment......stay safe.....and thanks for sharing.....
Routing with a drill press was not uncommon decades ago. But there many drill presses that did not use Morse taper quills & chucks. Still, it's not a good idea to route on a DP.
THANKS
I loved this video. Problem solving at its finest. Glad you got footage.
What he is doing is actually very dangerous and damages his tools.
Uh no, it isn’t problem solving.. it’s stupid clickbait.
I have always wonder if a router bit would work in a drill press too....thanks for sharing. That being said, I would just cut an new insert and run my saw blade through it to give me a zero clearance. Not a fan of that tape....I have a half dozen or so wooden inserts for most of my common cuts.
I think you just invented the overarm router! To me, this is one of the big arguments for a (small) milling machine in the wood shop. It's awesome for this, much safer, easier to dial in dimensions, and is super rigid. I do this kind of thing all the time on mine... plus it serves double-duty as a drill press
Jeff I worked 40 years as a toolmaker and do woodwork in my retirement, but I belong to my local Menz Shed where we have a small milling machine and metal lathe. The mill can be useful for wood work, and allows extreme accuracy. I even prefer to use the metal lathe for wood in a lot of applications. You are ensured perfect parallel where needed, and it is much easier to work to a set size. Dust is a problem, but much easier to clean off than metal swarf.
My comment is on a different tack. By removing material on the underside of your insert you now have a gap between the end of the table and the insert. In my humble opinion, it would be better if you were to route out the top of the insert where the tape is going to go. This way you don't have to readjust your insert and you wouldn't have the gap between the table and the insert.
some drill presses have a threaded collar and are designed for lateral loads like routing and shaping. What was your RPM you failed to tell us that. Kinda important dont you think?
Well done. Well thought through and approached relatively safely!
relativey safe any real woodworker wouldn"t think about using a "relativlevely" safe way to do something. We like to work with all our fingers. Those who will try these relatvely safe techniques are the ones placed in danger and lose a finger or worse. Are there any 100 % sure power tools for even the best woodworker.?
Nice experiment but I can’t help but wonder why you would need a zero clearance on a mitre saw because of the nature of how it cuts you don’t get Tero on the bottom anyway if it’s going to happen anywhere it will be on top but use properly that’s easily avoided. And if anyone says it stops bits of wood falling down inside I can’t see that’s really a problem easy enough to clear out
I actually made a video on this exact topic.
ua-cam.com/video/fTs3ngQMxT8/v-deo.html
Well, I actually have been doing this for 20 years, and you are correct, in that a chuck does tend to have more "play" in it. I first set the desired height, then LOWER the rabbiting bit into the preset depth done on the drill press stop. I NEVER have used it to mill down the length of stock like you just tried! But it is a really handy technique when you have, say, a hole that is too long or deep in the stock for say, a toggle switch, or a connector in an electronic or shop tooling fixture, where you all of a sudden need to put a head of a larger bolt or screw flush or below material surface.. when that wasn't originally your plan 😡.
Pretty interesting indeed, dude! Great results! 😮
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
A drill press will work in a pinch, but the bearings in the drill press are set up for straight down pressure, drilling, which doesn't support the router bit or drill shank. Also a drill press does not have nearly as high a rpm range. A router has bearings set up for side pressure, for routing and higher rpm's.
I appreciate there's a lot of pedantic jobsworths who say absolutely not to what something isn't designed for, which goes against science and engineering and what not. But this proves even if one does it, it shows what can and shouldn't be done or what's not recommended.
I see this is safe and everything calculated, depth adjusted tools keeping body and fingers/hands away, a sacrificial fence etc etc. It's surely not recommended but if one doesn't have. Router and is pushed, I can't blame them-and you-for doing this :) I see risks are removed where possible and unless clothes caught, I don't see this being dangerous the way you were being careful. Everything's dangerous, the damn table saw is more common and dangerous for lots of reasons. So thanks for sharing :)
The opening line had me laughing out loud. 😆 Cool video tho!
when the chuck falls off you got a high speed gut cutter comin at ya.
I wonder if I could use a trim router as a drill press motor, with a drill bit inserted. Would that work?
cool stuff, but wouldn't it be better to reduce the height on a tablesaw?
Glad you made it through this ok, but the problems and most of the comments are all of the thing you find out when you try to use a drill press to mill. Even with people doing stuff like press fitting or epoxy to keep that taper in, you really need a draw bar
i have used my drill press as an overhead router a few times. my 1946 beaver 3700 drill press is much more suited for it than most modern drill presses for two major reasons.
first of all the jacobs taper that hold the chuck onto the spindle is not a secure fastening system nor is it suitable for a side load. the chuck on my beaver is held on by a jt33 jacobs taper plus the chuck has a locking collar that threads onto the spindle above the taper. the chuck cannot come off without loosening that collar
second issue is the bearings in the quill. most drill presses have sealed ball bearings in there, not suitable for side loads. the beaver has tapered roller bearings(like the wheels on a trailer) these are much more suitable for the side loads
a third issue is cutter speed. a drill press is much too slow for router bits. a router spins at 20,000 plus rpm, a drill press might reach 8000
I've been using my string trimmer for routing, milling, and joinery work (cutting dovetails, mostly) up until now, but it seemed kinda risky so I think I'll start using the drill press from now on. Thanks for the safety advice!
I see a new name for your channel coming. Something like "The Adventures of...". Great video.
This can work. In terms of dangerous, there is a huge difference between 20,000 RPM ad approx 500 RPM
To be honest….I was feeling nervous too. Great vid.
Don’t try this at home???? Sounds like a challenge 😎😎😋😋
If that makes you nervous maybe you should take up needle point. Lmao
I like the idea. Thanks!
Why not mill a dado in the throat plate to a depth of .021"? That would put the tape flush with the wood surrounding it, and it's a much simpler operation.