I appreciate that! I do this as a side project so I'm just pleased if people find this stuff useful or informative. Hopefully the video quality is improving with each upload I do. Thanks for the support, it's tough being a small guy out there with so many big channels around.
@torquecars Smaller channels have more genuine content, I believe. Video quality is good. Maybe more Subaru,Ford, and turbo info and performance content? Keep it up. Canada 🇨🇦 here. I was a mechanic/machinist for 35 years.
Civic 2.2 iCTDi. 2006 model. Ran it from 2011 to 2023, bought with 76k on clock, sold with 227k miles. Changed the oil and serviced the car every 12.5k miles, 12 months. Never let me down and it's still running today. Fantastic cars if serviced regularly. Rust was the biggest issue on it.
I recently got a 2013/14 model and it's brilliant. Only issue is as you say rust but a bit of Vactan + a lanolin based undercoat and even that isn't a problem.
"Value of the car" is overrated. "Cost of replacement" is more important. Many cars need substantial part replacement at 150K miles that would be "more than the value of the car." By then the car has been paid off and the insurance rates have gone down. If the car has been decently maintained and is otherwise in good shape (such as no rust, as in many places where salt is not used on the roads), spending $5,000 on that car "buys" you a car that can take you another 50-100K...which is far more economical than buying a new car. That's particularly true if you can do a lot of the maintenance itself.
I go by the "severe service" intervals and I am rewarded with engines that last. I do not buy the long oil change intervals at all and I am happy to change my oil more often. My Veloster N has a "normal" OCI of 7500 miles. The "severe service" interval is 3000 miles. So 3k it is. I just did an oil change a few hours ago. A few days ago I ran intake valve cleaner because this is a GDI engine. At 30k she gets new plugs and new coolant.
Rust is probably the biggest issue. You can do everything right and rust can still kill your vehicle. I think it is fine. Nothing is meant to last forever. I think if we give our cars a good run and get lucky enough to get 20+ years out of a car from new, we are winners. After 20 years, a new vehicle is warranted for reasons such as parts availability/repair costs, increased safety, efficiency and lower emissions anyway. If you are dedicated to making a vehicle last even longer, all the power to you!
Can't believe there's no law forcing car makers to glavanise vehicles to the level the conditions are in the country they sell them to. A car sold here gets the same level of rust protection as a car sold in South Africa. Farce
I was surprised when you said "in the UK there is still 70% of standard cars" I would have never guessed that. Here in the US. tha'ts considered a theft deterrent device. LOL
It always amazes me how many people seem to never check oil or change it regularly it's a simple task but a lot of people really cant afford to service their cars so skip the odd service there in lies the problem. 😮
Great advice by this bloke! Right, I don’t live in a cold climate but I do the following. Oil and filter every 5,000 km. Diff oil and fuel filter every 15,000 km Auto box and coolant drain and fill every two years …. Coolant is very important to longevity. I lubricate the door locks, gentle on opening and closing glovebox, doors etc, learn how to be gentle on your seat mechanisms and getting in and out of the car, don’t slap the seat belts. Protect the car from the sun with a screen and wax the paint occasionally. Check tyre pressures and don’t dry turn the steering - so you don’t hurt tie rods, ball joints and power steering pumps and seals. What he did not mention about oil is that the thin oils and regular changes are essential for vvt mechanisms and hydraulic timing chain tensioner to work properly, they have very small screens and galleries that get easily clogged with old oil. I have one car on 0w20 and 2 on 5w30, synthetic always, Dexos rated or C3 rated. What he also didn’t mention is that old oil turns acidic and it munches into bearings and metal, the high mileage oils all have heaps of neutralising compounds and viscosity improvers to go the distance, I’d rather change the oil more often. Enjoy your cars!
Agree fully with your advice, would also advice to switch off the start/stop system. It stops the built up oilpressure, your crankshaftbearings especially will thank you. Ofcourse avoid cold starts, avoid
Landshark, I have a petrol engine Toyota hybrid and they have now been making the hybrid models for over 20 years. The engines shut off and restart many many more times than a bog standard 'stop/start' engine system and there is no problem. The engine shuts off even if you lift off the throttle when driving at speed. This continuous stopping and restarting does in no way wear out the engine. The oil pressure is immediately resumed when the engine restarts. Also how do you propose an owner avoid cold starts other than pre-heating the engine.
@@Landshark928 Thanks dude - like your style. For info I have a RAV4 hybrid and change oil every 6 months - once by the dealer at annual service and then 6 months later by me as an interim. 0w16 oil is like water but is well proven to work ok if the car is serviced regularly.
Exactly! I'd say 5,000m MAX. Because in 10yrs time it's sound & run sweet as a nut with good mpg compared to 10,000m, as a lot of owners do. I spray WD40 or even GT85 everywhere 2x a year....i mean incl all around the engine,underneath it incl the back....plus brake pipes, hand brake cables & rear beam incl subframe. I looked after my 2002 Yaris for 13yrs like that,sold it on as the road tax was getting real silly! New owner has it now for 3 yrs with it passing it's MOT every time! Only failed ONCE i had it....bl**dy wiper blade. Very,very minor rust on inner rear wheel arch but i put this semi-hard plastic edge runners on it with spray grease in the gap to ease the rust, still looks great today as it hasn't spread. I still talk to the new owner today as he loves it. My new 2015 Yaris i got is £35 road tax with 58mpg a few times (60mpg on paper) & old Yaris is £255! But with 49mpg just the once i got at BEST! Makes sense to get a newer car!
i change my oil and filter every December 5w/30 synthetic and keep the rpm at 2000 or above most of the time.. fuel economy is pretty good and drive it hard before mot's and give it a long run every month..1500 dci 🇬🇧
first thing I do when I get in my car now is hit the stop start button and disable it, I hate it , I do a lot of stop driving due to traffic I have found on my last three cars that the Batteries don't last very long and I can only deduce that all that stop starting from the engine is wearing out the starter motor too with it cycling on and off all the time, that cannot be good for the car and surely must speed up wear with lack of lubrication inside the engine too I am prepared to take the hit on reduced MPG over the price of a new Battery and starter which for current car is very expensive . I have also found that Halfords recommendations for oils suitable for my car are way off the mark , my car has a Turbo charged GDI engine yet Halfords predominantly suggest SN grade oils which is bad info, all Petrol GDI with Turbos need SP grade oils, so I don't trust Halfords one bit nor should you and their staff cannot even fit windscreen wiper blades correctly which I found out after having Halfords replaced mine only to lose one on the motorway home as it flew off the arm as I trundled down the motorway at 65 mph, also avoid Kwik fit their Tyre monkeys replaced my tyres last year and stripped two of the threads on my Lug nuts because they had there air gun wrench set too high, I had fight with them to get them to replace the stripped out wheel nut spindles that they stripped, I just don't trust these drop in service centres any longer.
@@grantfryer407 Never used halfrauds but kwikshit nearly fecked a clio that my missus put in for an oil change. They didn't replace the oil filler cap after the oil change and it chucked half a sump full of oil out the filler cap hole all over the engine. Discovered it after she said the car smelled funny after 4 days driving it. The filler cap was still on the inner wing covered in oil. The manager refused to take responsibility and said we must have left it off. Don't trust your pride and joy to these clowns.
Indeed, start stop and stupidly long service intervals is the true killer of the turbo engines. I even taught my kid after turning on his car, to hit start/stop button. You do not really want your ultra hot turbo bearings to cook the oil when engine shuts off at a crossroad, instead of a constant oil flow over it, helping them to cool down and keep them lubricated permanently
SN+ or SP or A7. There's also a device available for some models which will remember the last setting on the Start - Stop button, meaning if you turn it off it stays off between manual starts. And of course you can still turn it back on for your M.O.T.
Good points. Most manufacturers have severe service schedules. Most people should use this schedule. Severe service schedules usually have oil change 1/2 the mileage and monthly oil and other fluid exchanges.
@@geriatricprogrammer4364 if the rust isn't near structural parts, then it'll only be an advisory. I got a 24 yrold seicento and it's got 2 big rust holes in the boot but those are just advisories.
I have a 6 year old 1 litre DSG Skoda Karoq. 22000 miles so far. Turbo went after 15000 miles. Diagnosis, too low a mileage for age of the car and too many short journeys. Skoda replaced the turbo FOC but I had to pay the labour as it was out of warranty. There was me thinking that a small engine was more ideal for my circumstances. Agree that stop start is overated. I turn mine off as soon as I start the engine. Nice car though. You can shove your EV's!
Some of the tips in this video will help ua-cam.com/video/YeG5-oWehcY/v-deo.html but few cars like short journeys, they really need to warm up. Sorry to hear about your bad experience though but glad you've got it sorted now.
All the cars I've ever owned have ended up in the scrap yard due to rust and not engine wear. I am talking of 15+ years of use, but such a waste of a good engine.
Most cars have their foibles had a 1.6 cvh engine fiesta for 60k miles from new after 6 months the engine would get clattery at start up like the hydraulic engine tappets werent initially getting enough lubrication do a half way oil chsnge problem went away. Probably best preventative maintenace ever halving oil change intervals unless the oil is mega expensive. Other top tip i suppose is avoid the absolute dog engines like the wet belt ones no good can come of running a glorified rubber belt in hot oil contaminated with combustion products.
Be gentle, but rev a bit after up to temp. 3000 miles on synthetic is good for me at damp coastal hilly driving. My fluids are changed regularly! A good purolator one quality oil filter is smart.
Not every manufacturer specifies a service interval. Nowhere in my 2012 Toyota scheduled maintenance log book, that Toyota handed out to new owners, is there a recommendation for coolant or transmission service. The scheduled maintenance log book goes out to 120K miles.
The car care nut recommends coolant every 5 years - transmission depends on the type - eg standard or hybrid eCVT - check him out - over a million subscribers.
I've had the same car since 1989, Mazda 323. Now after swapping out alot of parts I can do the repairs my self. Any thoughts on making a Mazda B series carburetor engine a bit more peak? I feel like rebuilding the SOHC engine with stronger internal parts but not sure what parts? Thanks man
I have 2.0 TDI don’t rev hard until temp gets up to 90c , when I finish a trip I always wait till the oil temp drops about 5 c before turning off as it protects the lid t if the turbo ect
I have the same (DFEA VW Touran). and I do the same (oil temp at 93 degrees or less before shutoff). I service it myself using genuine filters and long life 507 approved oil every 7500 miles - which feels safe but not wasteful to me as most journeys are longer ones as we live in a rural location but near faster trunk route roads. It’s just rolled over 100k miles and I’ll be pleased if it gets to 250k miles.
great channel came too late for live sorry..... I Have 2 cars with the 1.8 tsi engine and on the chain cover label one says RR4 the other BZB do you know the difference ?
@torquecars i own a 1.6 tdi in india. VW recommend changing diesel filter after 15k kms/year. My car runs less than 5k kms in a year. Should i change after 15k kms or every year irrespective of kms? I use premium diesel.
@@Indranil2050 ive same engine, 200k now, 8k new oil and all filters. 8k or 1 year is best interval for recommended quality of oil regarding VW/Škoda approves. If you will use better oils like Valvoline or Millers, you should do 10k intervals, but I can not recommend it. My POV is 0W30 and change every 5k km, best for this engine, in case of temperature cycles. Thinner oil more effectively cool the pistons anf the rest of the engine. Turn oil temperature on your display and use it as info. If oil will not drop temperature in few minutes to 85-88 from approx 100, it is ready to change it. Temperature "pump" is the main reason to use thinner oils. I also used Liqui Moly Ceratec whole lifetime of my car, no issue. Ride like maniac, most of my friends can not velice u have a stock car.
It would be interesting to hear your opinion about products that ceramic coat the inside of your engine or products like Slick50. I'm considering one of these treatments as many taxi drivers swear by it but is it ok for the latest Euro6 engines? Critics say it could flake with time and clog passageways.
I had no idea that we should cool the engine before turn it off. Although I don't think that's very realistic specially in hill areas because when you're going up hill the engine will heat significantly and when you reach the destination on the top of the hill you can't do shit to cool it down. Also another case is staying in traffic. When you reach your destination the engine is very hot from staying a lot of time in traffic and you have no choice but to turn the engine off.
Just letting it idle for a few minutes before turning it of is enough. And in traffic it shouldn't matter as there will be one or two fans at the front of the engine and not that much heat generated thanks to the low rev's.
@@loc4725 The fan in the car I drive only turns on at 92ºC so the engine will stay very hot in traffic and if I leave it idling for a few minutes it will heat significantly.
@HeavenlyWarrior 92°C is a bit hot although not terrible; engine coolant systems are designed to run above normal atmospheric boiling point without actually boiling as a way of more efficiently rejecting heat. That the temperature rises that high when idling does suggest a problem though, perhaps a faulty thermostat? In any case the fans should come on and keep it under control and if this isn't happening I'd get it looked at.
@@loc4725 For that car seems to be normal, I've seen in several internet forums. Fan only turns on at 92ºC which seems to me like too much. It's incredibly rare, even in summer, that the fan turns on because it takes a lot to reach that temperature although the oil pressure drops a lot when idling much before reaching that temperature and that seems normal although I still worry.
@@HeavenlyWarrior I wouldn't worry too much. Once driven for a bit my car tends to reach and then stay at ~90°C and won't really go above this unless it's at least warm outside and being thrashed (6k RPM+). As for the oil pressure dropping during idling, this is normal and if your model normally reaches 92° then that must be the design. I've owned an older car which heated up rather quickly; it used W40 oil, presumably because of the old design of the engine and they were probably trying to make it more efficient by getting it hot. The fans on that would often come on when idle and waiting for that was actually part of the coolant replacement process.
2015 EA288 Passat currently has 86,400 Miles. I am hoping for 500,000 miles. I'll accept 300,000. 2021 Ram 3500 6.7l HO 4x4 has 93,900. I expect 750,000 miles. I'll accept 500,000 miles
@hisownman This has been my experience on many Honda 4 cylinder engines I've owned/own. My 2004 Honda CR-V has 239,xxx miles on it. I've had every generation of 4Runner. While I prefer the 22rfe, the 3400 V6 was also a great engine. The 5.7l in my Tundra, the 4.0l in my Tacoma, and the 6cyl in my last Avalon was an absolute pleasure. I was only disappointed by the engine braking in my Tacoma. As soon as I let the accelerator up, even a tiny bit, it seemed like the brakes were applied. This killed the fuel economy and made the ride so jerky. I purchased my Tundra because of that. I ended up selling the Tundra back to Toyota for more than I paid a couple of years later, when they kept making me offers! Edit: My Rav4 has 129,xxx miles on it. I forgot about it. 4cyl, 2010.
You dont mention oil filters? Would you use original stuff only? How often do you change oil filter? How important is the temp of the engine when you drain the oil?
I would always change the filter with the oil, I kind of assumed this was normal practice. The oil filter can contain 10% of the old oil in some cases, and as the filter does it job it makes flowing oil through it harder. Draining oil on warm engine is best, but we need to bear in mind that modern cars with stop start are designed to flow oil very slowly back to the sump, probably why so many garages overfill the oil. I think I'll need to do a video on oil changes, there seems to be a need for a "best practice" guide.
Love the vids! Are you a mechanic? If so i was wondering what could a sulphur smell mean from exhaust especially higher concentration when been revving engine higher and then sitting at idle the smell appears more ? Also i own a honda civic 1.8 r18 z4 2012 but seem to be the worst car i have ever owned as since i purchased the car i had to put a new catalytic converter on all new sensors due to rich issue which seems to been sensor one bank one and burns a lot of oil about 300-400 miles per litre. Thanks 🙏
At a guess I would say the smell is coming from the catalyst as it runs too hot trying to burn off stuff that shouldn't be in there, fuel is typical but it could be oil particles. Did you change the o2 sensors? Are the injectors in good condition? Does it happen if you run it on VPower or similar? It could also be the oil used which is leaving deposits in the catalyst? It is burning oil so have you done a compression test?
@@torquecars my car was running rich due to bad primary 02 sensor the one that does fuel trims. Honda had to replace the sensor with original as doesnt like aftermarket ones as kept throwing up codes. Injectors seem ok but had a really rich condition as when i back off the throttle the fuel spiked to 29.4% unfortunately. Had a new catalyst put on the car and changed all spark plugs etc. trying to look after the car but something seemed to have gone wrong before me owning the car which has cost me like 2k in total plus the cost of the car. Also done gearbox fluid change and new coolant basically changed alot of things and the pcv valve but still burning oil. The compression is c1 - 190 psi c2- 197psi c3- 185psi c4- 206psi
Definitely rust. Especially in UK where local Councils dump thousands of tons of salt onto the roads every winter, even when we only have very slight frosts.
Do not abide by long life services, brought in to appease the skimping fleet companies, yes use the right oil, a lot of people do not. Don’t skimp it’s cheap compared to a new engine, I chained at 6k .
Step 1- Avoid anything German. Step 2- Naturally aspirated costs less to own. Step 3- Use proper oil & change it appropriately. Step 4- Use proper coolant and replace it as needed. In all cases don't believe the OEM. 100K mile coolant does not last 100K. "Lifetime" transmission fluid will provide a short lifetime. I have a 21 year old Toyota with 270K miles that runs like it did when I bought it new.
@@Saida561 M54 only because everything is more mechanical, physical dipstick. Hydraulic steering system, easy to fix when things go wrong, cheaper to maintain, M54 runs cooler too I think. N52 other hand has more plastics, water pump is electronic, dipstick electronic, but I’ll say they can handle more abuse driven hard than an M54 only because of oil pump nut backing out.
Manufactures service interval is dictated by the Euro norms and the anount of used oil collected from regular maintenance - at least in Europe - and they pretend that an engine should be OK even with 2 years or 12k miles service interval. Yeah, it is OK up to 3rd oil change, then you simply scrap the engine. C'mon, people, THINK !!! Given the huge stress an oil engine takes inside your car, it denotes sheer stupidity if you don't change your oil around 6k miles, 12 months max. And that if you use the vehicle less in the city, more on the medium to long journeys. Halve this value (3k miles and 6 months) if you are a heavy city driver. There is an exception though, if your name is Rockefeller, Musk, Bill Gates... when you don't care for such trivial matters as common cars maintenance.
Thanks for the laugh. My new 2020 Toyota (built late 2019 in Japan) was my most problematic vehicle experience in 40+ years over 11 different new Honda, Acura, & Toyota vehicles during that time. Toyota quality is a thing of the past. Prompted me to buy my first Mazda in 2022 & very happy still with that purchase.
Buy a,Toyota. Avoid VW crap like a,plague. That's what you do. Change oil yourself since most of the dealers are crooks and use cheap shit. If they do anything at all. Or find a decent mechanic. Not a dealer that's for sure. Try avoid short trips,and avoid towing a,trailer
Which idiot will doing service on 3 months on diesel. I doing 35-40k a year. For what i buy diesel then. Official vw service said they make this longtime engines now
Every engine has a compromised design. Pressure in most parts does not remain uniform throughout service life. Even Toyota VVTI components and time chains have a higher rate of wear and tear
A great way to keep a car for simply start of with a make of vehicle that has a rock solid reputation for reliability and that is Toyota or Lexus and in a petrol engine every 6000 miles which l do on my 1997 Toyota Hilux and buy a vehicle with a reliable engine as my Hilux has the 22R engine although in the UK they are few and far between but in Australia there a plenty of them still driving around as for longevity my Hilux will still be going in 27 years time that's 54 years without reconditioning the engine now that Audi you drive are for starters is not the most reliable car ever built so are all European vehicles but buy a Toyota or Lexus last longer than any European or British car and in Australia the most reliable car make is Lexus followed by Toyota and the biggest selling brand in Australia for the past 25 years is Toyota hence there are more Toyota's on Australian roads than any other brand in Australia because they are so good and today l saw 20 30 and 40 year old Toyota's driving along because they don't break down and l saw on a video and there was a 1998 Toyota Camery in very good condition and he checked how many were left on the road and it was 19 well l see them every day and l probably saw 19 today they are very common l don't get the UK with Toyota's and l am shore once you realise how much better they are than European and British cars except for Lotus who got smart and put Toyota engines in there cars why more reliable of course but compared the other makes Toyota is so far ahead of them than any European makes and the best VW made was the VW Taro if you don't know what a VW Taro is look it up l dare you but getting back to reliable cars there is also Honda zMazfa except for there diesels maybe any diesels also Suzuki's that's the only brands you should buy want a luxury car buy a Lexus and another thing try and avoid turbo charged vehicles the turbo charger shortens the life of any engine even the Honda's and Toyota's simply buy a Toyota Camery or Corolla and another thing to avoid is CVTs especially in the Nissan's and Mitsubishis they are designed to break and that's a fact and remember there have been many examples of Toyota's Honda's and Lexuses that have done over a million miles on there original engine and original transmission
Good onya Les! The oldie Toyotas are from a different era - well designed, well made and simple. Also your car not in a rust area so that won't kill it. My current car a RAV4 hybrid current shape used in winter salty scotland will not last 27 years - just too complex and too much obsolescence - parts will not be available in 10 years. 10 to 15 years for scrapping will be the norm.
@@jimb7406 unfortunately the bug problem in the UK Europe and North America is snow and salty roads will kill vehicles but in sunny Australia most 1990s vehicles don't rust so in Australia we have the best of both worlds were there is very little snow and 1990s Toyota's we have it so good in Australia and you do realise that Toyota spent billions of dollars on replacing the chassis on boxed steel chassis on Toyota utes in the rust belt of the USA and in Australia the chassis don't rust on all utes but ealier Japanese vehicles and British and now newer Chinese did rust and in the case of Modern Chinese built vehicles they rust especially LDVs and in some cases LDV write there vehicles off yes a two year old vehicle is written of because of rust were my 27 year old Toyota Hilux doesn't rust and in N.S.W for any light vehicle over five years need a yearly registration inspection and they do check for rust so a lot of these Chinese built vehicles will not pass there registration inspections and that does include BYDs they have rust problems but l don't know how they will go in the UK with there MOTs they will fail but you do realise that the British LDVs are far better built than the Chinese built LDVs and the same goes for the MGs built in the UK because they are still some 60 years they were built in 60 years time will there be any Chinese built wannabe MGs around but the British built MGs will be still around
I half the factory recommended intervals on most fluids and run 3K mile oil change intervals(OCI) on the engine oil on my 2019 Nissan 370Z 6MT with the sport pkg. The car is hitting 65K miles and shows no oil consumption on the dipstick at the end of the 3K mile OCI and the inside surfaces of my exhaust tips show hardly any soot or oil residue. I'm currently awaiting the results of a used oil sample that I sent off to a testing lab to judge the suitability of the oil that I'm using(Redline 5W-30) with my engine and the operating conditions. I run a continuous dose of a good complete fuel system cleaner in the gas, which also has synthetic high temperature upper cylinder lubricants to minimize ring and piston wear. When I do a cold start, I idle the engine until the oil temperature gets to 140℉ before I drive off. After that I keep the revs below 2500 rpm with no hard acceleration until the oil has warmed up to at least 180℉. The engine runs quietly and smoothly with good response and good power. One other factor that may have contributed to the engine's apparently good state of health is that I broke the engine in very gently and over a prolonged period, about 15k miles. I also did numerous early oil changes in the first 3K miles to flush out all of the wear metals I could that were in suspension in the oil.
Mate you are a car owner hero to baby that one. Waiting to heat the engine when idling will not help as the fuel wash when cold does not help the oil lubrication at the ring / bore interface. Better to drive it up to temp as quickly as poss whilst keeping revs moderate until the oil temp is up to normal. But love your car and enjoy it while you can. Electric cars are so sterile.
Your channel has great content. Keep it up
I appreciate that! I do this as a side project so I'm just pleased if people find this stuff useful or informative. Hopefully the video quality is improving with each upload I do. Thanks for the support, it's tough being a small guy out there with so many big channels around.
@torquecars Smaller channels have more genuine content, I believe. Video quality is good. Maybe more Subaru,Ford, and turbo info and performance content? Keep it up. Canada 🇨🇦 here. I was a mechanic/machinist for 35 years.
Civic 2.2 iCTDi. 2006 model. Ran it from 2011 to 2023, bought with 76k on clock, sold with 227k miles. Changed the oil and serviced the car every 12.5k miles, 12 months. Never let me down and it's still running today. Fantastic cars if serviced regularly.
Rust was the biggest issue on it.
I recently got a 2013/14 model and it's brilliant. Only issue is as you say rust but a bit of Vactan + a lanolin based undercoat and even that isn't a problem.
Every 5,000 miles OR 6-month intervals, whichever happens first! Quality full synthetic oil! Oil filter with every oil change!
Hi buddy. Philip, my autistic brother subscribed to give support. He's not a driver but will help.
Thanks for another great vid.
Thanks 🤝
Wow thanks for the recommendation. I appreciate the support my friend.
@@torquecars
Appreciated. That meant a lot to both of us.😊
What has finished off our cars has been required repairs which cost near or more than the value of the car.
@@Xenon777_ so your car was finished off by other people laziness and greed.
DIY
"Value of the car" is overrated. "Cost of replacement" is more important. Many cars need substantial part replacement at 150K miles that would be "more than the value of the car." By then the car has been paid off and the insurance rates have gone down. If the car has been decently maintained and is otherwise in good shape (such as no rust, as in many places where salt is not used on the roads), spending $5,000 on that car "buys" you a car that can take you another 50-100K...which is far more economical than buying a new car. That's particularly true if you can do a lot of the maintenance itself.
Or interiors falling apart. Literally never met anyone who gets a new car because their engine died...
The enormous purchase and repair cost of new cars should make people want to repair old cars even if the repair costs exceed the "nominal" value.
I go by the "severe service" intervals and I am rewarded with engines that last. I do not buy the long oil change intervals at all and I am happy to change my oil more often. My Veloster N has a "normal" OCI of 7500 miles. The "severe service" interval is 3000 miles. So 3k it is. I just did an oil change a few hours ago. A few days ago I ran intake valve cleaner because this is a GDI engine. At 30k she gets new plugs and new coolant.
If it's a manual, do your gear oil while you're at it!
@@troynilson I already have. MT-LV. It improved the shifting.
Rust is probably the biggest issue. You can do everything right and rust can still kill your vehicle. I think it is fine. Nothing is meant to last forever. I think if we give our cars a good run and get lucky enough to get 20+ years out of a car from new, we are winners. After 20 years, a new vehicle is warranted for reasons such as parts availability/repair costs, increased safety, efficiency and lower emissions anyway. If you are dedicated to making a vehicle last even longer, all the power to you!
Learned a new term today - mechanical sympathy. Seems really needed in today's time.
Rust is the biggest problem in the uk 🇬🇧
Exactly. Everyone is so worried about their engine lasting forever when cars junked over rust and interiors falling apart long before the engine dies.
Can't believe there's no law forcing car makers to glavanise vehicles to the level the conditions are in the country they sell them to. A car sold here gets the same level of rust protection as a car sold in South Africa. Farce
Especially when you live near the coast. The worst bits are usually hidden behind plastic trims and covers.
@torquecars agree or in Scotland etc, lots of rain!
Also in the North of the USA. Rust NEVER sleeps.
I was surprised when you said "in the UK there is still 70% of standard cars" I would have never guessed that. Here in the US. tha'ts considered a theft deterrent device. LOL
It always amazes me how many people seem to never check oil or change it regularly it's a simple task but a lot of people really cant afford to service their cars so skip the odd service there in lies the problem. 😮
I've owned quite a few cars and the engine was the least of my worries, usually there's a long list of other things that go bad first...
Great advice by this bloke!
Right,
I don’t live in a cold climate but I do the following.
Oil and filter every 5,000 km.
Diff oil and fuel filter every 15,000 km
Auto box and coolant drain and fill every two years …. Coolant is very important to longevity.
I lubricate the door locks, gentle on opening and closing glovebox, doors etc, learn how to be gentle on your seat mechanisms and getting in and out of the car, don’t slap the seat belts.
Protect the car from the sun with a screen and wax the paint occasionally.
Check tyre pressures and don’t dry turn the steering - so you don’t hurt tie rods, ball joints and power steering pumps and seals.
What he did not mention about oil is that the thin oils and regular changes are essential for vvt mechanisms and hydraulic timing chain tensioner to work properly, they have very small screens and galleries that get easily clogged with old oil. I have one car on 0w20 and 2 on 5w30, synthetic always, Dexos rated or C3 rated. What he also didn’t mention is that old oil turns acidic and it munches into bearings and metal, the high mileage oils all have heaps of neutralising compounds and viscosity improvers to go the distance, I’d rather change the oil more often.
Enjoy your cars!
Good advice what lubricant do you use for the door locks and hinges?
Agree fully with your advice, would also advice to switch off the start/stop system. It stops the built up oilpressure, your crankshaftbearings especially will thank you. Ofcourse avoid cold starts, avoid
Landshark, I have a petrol engine Toyota hybrid and they have now been making the hybrid models for over 20 years. The engines shut off and restart many many more times than a bog standard 'stop/start' engine system and there is no problem. The engine shuts off even if you lift off the throttle when driving at speed. This continuous stopping and restarting does in no way wear out the engine. The oil pressure is immediately resumed when the engine restarts. Also how do you propose an owner avoid cold starts other than pre-heating the engine.
@@jimb7406 execeptions are always there. Kudos for Toyota✌️
@@Landshark928 Thanks dude - like your style. For info I have a RAV4 hybrid and change oil every 6 months - once by the dealer at annual service and then 6 months later by me as an interim. 0w16 oil is like water but is well proven to work ok if the car is serviced regularly.
Save some time. Half the manufacturers time for oil changes, drive steadily with a cold engine.
Exactly! I'd say 5,000m MAX. Because in 10yrs time it's sound & run sweet as a nut with good mpg compared to 10,000m, as a lot of owners do. I spray WD40 or even GT85 everywhere 2x a year....i mean incl all around the engine,underneath it incl the back....plus brake pipes, hand brake cables & rear beam incl subframe. I looked after my 2002 Yaris for 13yrs like that,sold it on as the road tax was getting real silly! New owner has it now for 3 yrs with it passing it's MOT every time! Only failed ONCE i had it....bl**dy wiper blade. Very,very minor rust on inner rear wheel arch but i put this semi-hard plastic edge runners on it with spray grease in the gap to ease the rust, still looks great today as it hasn't spread. I still talk to the new owner today as he loves it. My new 2015 Yaris i got is £35 road tax with 58mpg a few times (60mpg on paper) & old Yaris is £255! But with 49mpg just the once i got at BEST! Makes sense to get a newer car!
i change my oil and filter every December 5w/30 synthetic and keep the rpm at 2000 or above most of the time.. fuel economy is pretty good and drive it hard before mot's and give it a long run every month..1500 dci 🇬🇧
first thing I do when I get in my car now is hit the stop start button and disable it, I hate it , I do a lot of stop driving due to traffic I have found on my last three cars that the Batteries don't last very long and I can only deduce that all that stop starting from the engine is wearing out the starter motor too with it cycling on and off all the time, that cannot be good for the car and surely must speed up wear with lack of lubrication inside the engine too I am prepared to take the hit on reduced MPG over the price of a new Battery and starter which for current car is very expensive . I have also found that Halfords recommendations for oils suitable for my car are way off the mark , my car has a Turbo charged GDI engine yet Halfords predominantly suggest SN grade oils which is bad info, all Petrol GDI with Turbos need SP grade oils, so I don't trust Halfords one bit nor should you and their staff cannot even fit windscreen wiper blades correctly which I found out after having Halfords replaced mine only to lose one on the motorway home as it flew off the arm as I trundled down the motorway at 65 mph, also avoid Kwik fit their Tyre monkeys replaced my tyres last year and stripped two of the threads on my Lug nuts because they had there air gun wrench set too high, I had fight with them to get them to replace the stripped out wheel nut spindles that they stripped, I just don't trust these drop in service centres any longer.
@@Azureecosse i have also had problems with halfords et qwik fit costing me money for their bodge jobs.. wouldn't take my wheel barrow to them now 😬
@@grantfryer407 Never used halfrauds but kwikshit nearly fecked a clio that my missus put in for an oil change. They didn't replace the oil filler cap after the oil change and it chucked half a sump full of oil out the filler cap hole all over the engine. Discovered it after she said the car smelled funny after 4 days driving it. The filler cap was still on the inner wing covered in oil. The manager refused to take responsibility and said we must have left it off. Don't trust your pride and joy to these clowns.
Indeed, start stop and stupidly long service intervals is the true killer of the turbo engines. I even taught my kid after turning on his car, to hit start/stop button. You do not really want your ultra hot turbo bearings to cook the oil when engine shuts off at a crossroad, instead of a constant oil flow over it, helping them to cool down and keep them lubricated permanently
SN+ or SP or A7.
There's also a device available for some models which will remember the last setting on the Start - Stop button, meaning if you turn it off it stays off between manual starts. And of course you can still turn it back on for your M.O.T.
Good points. Most manufacturers have severe service schedules. Most people should use this schedule. Severe service schedules usually have oil change 1/2 the mileage and monthly oil and other fluid exchanges.
I think reducing OCI by 20-25% is a good place to start. For example, a 5k becomes a 4k OCI (20% reduction).
I put a water hose in my intake and rev to redline. It really cleans out all the carbon
@@natas12rm Paint stripper works for me!
Thumbzdown for dummeezz lol
@@lorenray9479 lmfao at least I can spell thumbs… omg wish I could see your amazing comments on other people’s sarcasm. Omg lmfao
One word rust. You can power wash the wheel arches and the underside but that just buys you a few more years at most.
The engine will be fine especially if it's an Toyota or Honda but good luck trying to pass an MOT.
Not so much on my Audi as the whole underneath is covered in plastic
Under trays
@@geriatricprogrammer4364 if the rust isn't near structural parts, then it'll only be an advisory. I got a 24 yrold seicento and it's got 2 big rust holes in the boot but those are just advisories.
I have a 6 year old 1 litre DSG Skoda Karoq. 22000 miles so far. Turbo went after 15000 miles. Diagnosis, too low a mileage for age of the car and too many short journeys. Skoda replaced the turbo FOC but I had to pay the labour as it was out of warranty. There was me thinking that a small engine was more ideal for my circumstances. Agree that stop start is overated. I turn mine off as soon as I start the engine. Nice car though. You can shove your EV's!
Some of the tips in this video will help ua-cam.com/video/YeG5-oWehcY/v-deo.html but few cars like short journeys, they really need to warm up. Sorry to hear about your bad experience though but glad you've got it sorted now.
All the cars I've ever owned have ended up in the scrap yard due to rust and not engine wear. I am talking of 15+ years of use, but such a waste of a good engine.
Most cars have their foibles had a 1.6 cvh engine fiesta for 60k miles from new after 6 months the engine would get clattery at start up like the hydraulic engine tappets werent initially getting enough lubrication do a half way oil chsnge problem went away.
Probably best preventative maintenace ever halving oil change intervals unless the oil is mega expensive.
Other top tip i suppose is avoid the absolute dog engines like the wet belt ones no good can come of running a glorified rubber belt in hot oil contaminated with combustion products.
Good information.
Be gentle, but rev a bit after up to temp. 3000 miles on synthetic is good for me at damp coastal hilly driving. My fluids are changed regularly! A good purolator one quality oil filter is smart.
If your in a warm country and use it for long distances it’s ok to service at manufacturers recommendations !
Not every manufacturer specifies a service interval. Nowhere in my 2012 Toyota scheduled maintenance log book, that Toyota handed out to new owners, is there a recommendation for coolant or transmission service. The scheduled maintenance log book goes out to 120K miles.
The car care nut recommends coolant every 5 years - transmission depends on the type - eg standard or hybrid eCVT - check him out - over a million subscribers.
I've had the same car since 1989, Mazda 323. Now after swapping out alot of parts I can do the repairs my self. Any thoughts on making a Mazda B series carburetor engine a bit more peak? I feel like rebuilding the SOHC engine with stronger internal parts but not sure what parts? Thanks man
Like the 2.0 L in a 1980 Courier? Mine blew oil out the front from the head gasket which was a common problem. So get the best quality gasket, etc.
New Old Stock , would be best . Can’t trust any aftermarket name brand anymore.
I have 2.0 TDI don’t rev hard until temp gets up to 90c , when I finish a trip I always wait till the oil temp drops about 5 c before turning off as it protects the lid t if the turbo ect
It’s oil temperature that you need look at don’t thrash it until 90•c!
I have the same (DFEA VW Touran). and I do the same (oil temp at 93 degrees or less before shutoff). I service it myself using genuine filters and long life 507 approved oil every 7500 miles - which feels safe but not wasteful to me as most journeys are longer ones as we live in a rural location but near faster trunk route roads.
It’s just rolled over 100k miles and I’ll be pleased if it gets to 250k miles.
great channel came too late for live sorry..... I Have 2 cars with the 1.8 tsi engine and on the chain cover label one says RR4 the other BZB do you know the difference ?
RR4 is not a VW engine code but may indicate a remanufactured unit.
I believe it's a serial number for the long block. Info available online.
@torquecars i own a 1.6 tdi in india. VW recommend changing diesel filter after 15k kms/year. My car runs less than 5k kms in a year. Should i change after 15k kms or every year irrespective of kms? I use premium diesel.
@@Indranil2050 ive same engine, 200k now, 8k new oil and all filters. 8k or 1 year is best interval for recommended quality of oil regarding VW/Škoda approves. If you will use better oils like Valvoline or Millers, you should do 10k intervals, but I can not recommend it. My POV is 0W30 and change every 5k km, best for this engine, in case of temperature cycles. Thinner oil more effectively cool the pistons anf the rest of the engine. Turn oil temperature on your display and use it as info. If oil will not drop temperature in few minutes to 85-88 from approx 100, it is ready to change it. Temperature "pump" is the main reason to use thinner oils. I also used Liqui Moly Ceratec whole lifetime of my car, no issue. Ride like maniac, most of my friends can not velice u have a stock car.
Is the cooldown not a big deal for natural aspirated engines?
I drive a 24 year old car and I never did everything that was suggested here, oh wait, I drive a Honda.
I made 22k for 6 months. I have interval on 30k or 2 years. Golf 8 2024 2.0
Do a ecu about Renault Megan engines 2010 dci
It would be interesting to hear your opinion about products that ceramic coat the inside of your engine or products like Slick50. I'm considering one of these treatments as many taxi drivers swear by it but is it ok for the latest Euro6 engines? Critics say it could flake with time and clog passageways.
I had no idea that we should cool the engine before turn it off. Although I don't think that's very realistic specially in hill areas because when you're going up hill the engine will heat significantly and when you reach the destination on the top of the hill you can't do shit to cool it down. Also another case is staying in traffic. When you reach your destination the engine is very hot from staying a lot of time in traffic and you have no choice but to turn the engine off.
Just letting it idle for a few minutes before turning it of is enough. And in traffic it shouldn't matter as there will be one or two fans at the front of the engine and not that much heat generated thanks to the low rev's.
@@loc4725 The fan in the car I drive only turns on at 92ºC so the engine will stay very hot in traffic and if I leave it idling for a few minutes it will heat significantly.
@HeavenlyWarrior 92°C is a bit hot although not terrible; engine coolant systems are designed to run above normal atmospheric boiling point without actually boiling as a way of more efficiently rejecting heat.
That the temperature rises that high when idling does suggest a problem though, perhaps a faulty thermostat? In any case the fans should come on and keep it under control and if this isn't happening I'd get it looked at.
@@loc4725 For that car seems to be normal, I've seen in several internet forums. Fan only turns on at 92ºC which seems to me like too much. It's incredibly rare, even in summer, that the fan turns on because it takes a lot to reach that temperature although the oil pressure drops a lot when idling much before reaching that temperature and that seems normal although I still worry.
@@HeavenlyWarrior I wouldn't worry too much. Once driven for a bit my car tends to reach and then stay at ~90°C and won't really go above this unless it's at least warm outside and being thrashed (6k RPM+).
As for the oil pressure dropping during idling, this is normal and if your model normally reaches 92° then that must be the design. I've owned an older car which heated up rather quickly; it used W40 oil, presumably because of the old design of the engine and they were probably trying to make it more efficient by getting it hot. The fans on that would often come on when idle and waiting for that was actually part of the coolant replacement process.
How long do you expect your engine to last? What is your current mileage?
2015 EA288 Passat currently has 86,400 Miles. I am hoping for 500,000 miles. I'll accept 300,000.
2021 Ram 3500 6.7l HO 4x4 has 93,900. I expect 750,000 miles. I'll accept 500,000 miles
I think on an average Honda/Toyota, the engine should last over 250,000km.
@hisownman This has been my experience on many Honda 4 cylinder engines I've owned/own. My 2004 Honda CR-V has 239,xxx miles on it. I've had every generation of 4Runner. While I prefer the 22rfe, the 3400 V6 was also a great engine. The 5.7l in my Tundra, the 4.0l in my Tacoma, and the 6cyl in my last Avalon was an absolute pleasure. I was only disappointed by the engine braking in my Tacoma. As soon as I let the accelerator up, even a tiny bit, it seemed like the brakes were applied. This killed the fuel economy and made the ride so jerky. I purchased my Tundra because of that. I ended up selling the Tundra back to Toyota for more than I paid a couple of years later, when they kept making me offers!
Edit: My Rav4 has 129,xxx miles on it. I forgot about it. 4cyl, 2010.
Easily with routine maintenance. The body and frame is another story without proper rust proofing periodically.
My TDI has not had oil over 6000 miles in it from new runs like a swiss watch 👌
You dont mention oil filters? Would you use original stuff only? How often do you change oil filter? How important is the temp of the engine when you drain the oil?
I would always change the filter with the oil, I kind of assumed this was normal practice. The oil filter can contain 10% of the old oil in some cases, and as the filter does it job it makes flowing oil through it harder. Draining oil on warm engine is best, but we need to bear in mind that modern cars with stop start are designed to flow oil very slowly back to the sump, probably why so many garages overfill the oil.
I think I'll need to do a video on oil changes, there seems to be a need for a "best practice" guide.
@@torquecars I would be interested in this video
One of the best things you can do is fit a bypass filter.
Love the vids! Are you a mechanic? If so i was wondering what could a sulphur smell mean from exhaust especially higher concentration when been revving engine higher and then sitting at idle the smell appears more ? Also i own a honda civic 1.8 r18 z4 2012 but seem to be the worst car i have ever owned as since i purchased the car i had to put a new catalytic converter on all new sensors due to rich issue which seems to been sensor one bank one and burns a lot of oil about 300-400 miles per litre. Thanks 🙏
At a guess I would say the smell is coming from the catalyst as it runs too hot trying to burn off stuff that shouldn't be in there, fuel is typical but it could be oil particles. Did you change the o2 sensors? Are the injectors in good condition? Does it happen if you run it on VPower or similar? It could also be the oil used which is leaving deposits in the catalyst? It is burning oil so have you done a compression test?
@@torquecars my car was running rich due to bad primary 02 sensor the one that does fuel trims. Honda had to replace the sensor with original as doesnt like aftermarket ones as kept throwing up codes. Injectors seem ok but had a really rich condition as when i back off the throttle the fuel spiked to 29.4% unfortunately. Had a new catalyst put on the car and changed all spark plugs etc. trying to look after the car but something seemed to have gone wrong before me owning the car which has cost me like 2k in total plus the cost of the car. Also done gearbox fluid change and new coolant basically changed alot of things and the pcv valve but still burning oil. The compression is c1 - 190 psi c2- 197psi c3- 185psi c4- 206psi
What does this mean? @torquecars
Peugeot 308 blue hdi. Oil 0-30c1 ...in Greece. No thanks! 5-30 c3 and change intervals every 10k km
Awesome.
i wouldn't take my wheelbarrow to halfords or quick fit tbh too many bad experiences.. Aberystwyth
Definitely rust. Especially in UK where local Councils dump thousands of tons of salt onto the roads every winter, even when we only have very slight frosts.
Why is low rpm bad? As i run without any filters, and i can’t see why it would be bad other than soot build up
The problem comes from lugging especially on turbo engines see this video for more insights into that ua-cam.com/video/ndtG6zxK_BM/v-deo.html
Changing oil ~$30.
People use cheap oil, wrong grade and wrong spec, a major cause of reliability.
Do not abide by long life services, brought in to appease the skimping fleet companies, yes use the right oil, a lot of people do not. Don’t skimp it’s cheap compared to a new engine, I chained at 6k .
If you doing something on its own the warranty going off
Step 1- Avoid anything German. Step 2- Naturally aspirated costs less to own. Step 3- Use proper oil & change it appropriately. Step 4- Use proper coolant and replace it as needed. In all cases don't believe the OEM. 100K mile coolant does not last 100K. "Lifetime" transmission fluid will provide a short lifetime. I have a 21 year old Toyota with 270K miles that runs like it did when I bought it new.
VW golf pd130 tdi would beg to differ
BMW N52 Engine 1:00 one of the most reliable engines.
lol
No
@@Saida561 M54 only because everything is more mechanical, physical dipstick. Hydraulic steering system, easy to fix when things go wrong, cheaper to maintain, M54 runs cooler too I think. N52 other hand has more plastics, water pump is electronic, dipstick electronic, but I’ll say they can handle more abuse driven hard than an M54 only because of oil pump nut backing out.
Rav4, 20000 k miles ,hope to get another 100k miles from it,but id say someone crash into me before then ,i live in Ireland, all shit drivers😅
Buy a 1998 vw tdi and treat it right.
Done
They wont to make service before intervals
Manufactures service interval is dictated by the Euro norms and the anount of used oil collected from regular maintenance - at least in Europe - and they pretend that an engine should be OK even with 2 years or 12k miles service interval. Yeah, it is OK up to 3rd oil change, then you simply scrap the engine. C'mon, people, THINK !!! Given the huge stress an oil engine takes inside your car, it denotes sheer stupidity if you don't change your oil around 6k miles, 12 months max. And that if you use the vehicle less in the city, more on the medium to long journeys. Halve this value (3k miles and 6 months) if you are a heavy city driver.
There is an exception though, if your name is Rockefeller, Musk, Bill Gates... when you don't care for such trivial matters as common cars maintenance.
Secret
Buy a Toyota
@@ibrahimqari9189 😂😂 great advice , simple but affective
Maybe not their diesel offerings.
Don’t buy a nissan
Thanks for the laugh. My new 2020 Toyota (built late 2019 in Japan) was my most problematic vehicle experience in 40+ years over 11 different new Honda, Acura, & Toyota vehicles during that time. Toyota quality is a thing of the past. Prompted me to buy my first Mazda in 2022 & very happy still with that purchase.
what about nissan patrol i 4rt you guys loved them?🇬🇧
Toyota
want your engine to last forever....dont buy an Audi....hehe
Electronics are going to be the biggest issue.
Mechanical sympathy: not going to help the electrics if you're driving a Chitröen or Poo'geot!
Buy a,Toyota. Avoid VW crap like a,plague.
That's what you do. Change oil yourself since most of the dealers are crooks and use cheap shit. If they do anything at all. Or find a decent mechanic. Not a dealer that's for sure.
Try avoid short trips,and avoid towing a,trailer
Which idiot will doing service on 3 months on diesel. I doing 35-40k a year. For what i buy diesel then. Official vw service said they make this longtime engines now
If you want your engine to last a long time, don't buy a car from the VW group. The TFSI engine shown is probably the worst one you can get.
@@wolfschindler8921 my 1.4tfsi lasted 160k miles... Untill the timing chain slipped. Changed oil as recommended and it still slipped.
@@stevenm8970 put a new timing chain on it and maybe it’s still good
@@itswais77 it slipped just before it was scheduled to be replaced.
Maybe that’s you?
Every engine has a compromised design. Pressure in most parts does not remain uniform throughout service life. Even Toyota VVTI components and time chains have a higher rate of wear and tear
A great way to keep a car for simply start of with a make of vehicle that has a rock solid reputation for reliability and that is Toyota or Lexus and in a petrol engine every 6000 miles which l do on my 1997 Toyota Hilux and buy a vehicle with a reliable engine as my Hilux has the 22R engine although in the UK they are few and far between but in Australia there a plenty of them still driving around as for longevity my Hilux will still be going in 27 years time that's 54 years without reconditioning the engine now that Audi you drive are for starters is not the most reliable car ever built so are all European vehicles but buy a Toyota or Lexus last longer than any European or British car and in Australia the most reliable car make is Lexus followed by Toyota and the biggest selling brand in Australia for the past 25 years is Toyota hence there are more Toyota's on Australian roads than any other brand in Australia because they are so good and today l saw 20 30 and 40 year old Toyota's driving along because they don't break down and l saw on a video and there was a 1998 Toyota Camery in very good condition and he checked how many were left on the road and it was 19 well l see them every day and l probably saw 19 today they are very common l don't get the UK with Toyota's and l am shore once you realise how much better they are than European and British cars except for Lotus who got smart and put Toyota engines in there cars why more reliable of course but compared the other makes Toyota is so far ahead of them than any European makes and the best VW made was the VW Taro if you don't know what a VW Taro is look it up l dare you but getting back to reliable cars there is also Honda zMazfa except for there diesels maybe any diesels also Suzuki's that's the only brands you should buy want a luxury car buy a Lexus and another thing try and avoid turbo charged vehicles the turbo charger shortens the life of any engine even the Honda's and Toyota's simply buy a Toyota Camery or Corolla and another thing to avoid is CVTs especially in the Nissan's and Mitsubishis they are designed to break and that's a fact and remember there have been many examples of Toyota's Honda's and Lexuses that have done over a million miles on there original engine and original transmission
Good onya Les! The oldie Toyotas are from a different era - well designed, well made and simple. Also your car not in a rust area so that won't kill it. My current car a RAV4 hybrid current shape used in winter salty scotland will not last 27 years - just too complex and too much obsolescence - parts will not be available in 10 years. 10 to 15 years for scrapping will be the norm.
@@jimb7406 unfortunately the bug problem in the UK Europe and North America is snow and salty roads will kill vehicles but in sunny Australia most 1990s vehicles don't rust so in Australia we have the best of both worlds were there is very little snow and 1990s Toyota's we have it so good in Australia and you do realise that Toyota spent billions of dollars on replacing the chassis on boxed steel chassis on Toyota utes in the rust belt of the USA and in Australia the chassis don't rust on all utes but ealier Japanese vehicles and British and now newer Chinese did rust and in the case of Modern Chinese built vehicles they rust especially LDVs and in some cases LDV write there vehicles off yes a two year old vehicle is written of because of rust were my 27 year old Toyota Hilux doesn't rust and in N.S.W for any light vehicle over five years need a yearly registration inspection and they do check for rust so a lot of these Chinese built vehicles will not pass there registration inspections and that does include BYDs they have rust problems but l don't know how they will go in the UK with there MOTs they will fail but you do realise that the British LDVs are far better built than the Chinese built LDVs and the same goes for the MGs built in the UK because they are still some 60 years they were built in 60 years time will there be any Chinese built wannabe MGs around but the British built MGs will be still around
Who cares if your engine will last forever. Your interior will fall apart and drive you to get a new car long before your engine dies.
I half the factory recommended intervals on most fluids and run 3K mile oil change intervals(OCI) on the engine oil on my 2019 Nissan 370Z 6MT with the sport pkg. The car is hitting 65K miles and shows no oil consumption on the dipstick at the end of the 3K mile OCI and the inside surfaces of my exhaust tips show hardly any soot or oil residue. I'm currently awaiting the results of a used oil sample that I sent off to a testing lab to judge the suitability of the oil that I'm using(Redline 5W-30) with my engine and the operating conditions.
I run a continuous dose of a good complete fuel system cleaner in the gas, which also has synthetic high temperature upper cylinder lubricants to minimize ring and piston wear. When I do a cold start, I idle the engine until the oil temperature gets to 140℉ before I drive off. After that I keep the revs below 2500 rpm with no hard acceleration until the oil has warmed up to at least 180℉. The engine runs quietly and smoothly with good response and good power. One other factor that may have contributed to the engine's apparently good state of health is that I broke the engine in very gently and over a prolonged period, about 15k miles. I also did numerous early oil changes in the first 3K miles to flush out all of the wear metals I could that were in suspension in the oil.
Mate you are a car owner hero to baby that one. Waiting to heat the engine when idling will not help as the fuel wash when cold does not help the oil lubrication at the ring / bore interface. Better to drive it up to temp as quickly as poss whilst keeping revs moderate until the oil temp is up to normal. But love your car and enjoy it while you can. Electric cars are so sterile.
And what pray tell is your own car or cars @TorqueCars