Change oil and filter every 3000 to 5000 miles with decent oil and a quality filter. Change air filter at the same time. Take for a good run at about 70 mph for several miles (motorway) once a week if only local commuting. Don't fly over speed bumps (suspension) and treat your car to a good wax twice a year and coat the underside with a liquid wax once a year and you'll have a reliable car. Ignore manufacturers' oil change intervals as it is BS. The engineers always recommend half what they state. All they want is the car to last the warranty period, then you're on your own. Remember the manufacturers rely on cars breaking down after this warranty period. Join a forum that is dedicated to your make and model of car. Use decent fuel.
@@craig357 I prefer to wax every quarter but agree with and practice your other points. In particular going for regular longer runs, because it's good for the car and because early morning Sunday drives along a country backroad are fun.
Except for the sensors that fail; that none of that prevents; and that the engine will last x times longer than the body, whatever (unless you live in a very dry climate).
Eh. It’s very dependent on what car you have and how you drive. Some oils are good beyond 10,000 miles in certain engines but those use cases are few and far between.
Yes this! May I add… don’t think you may omit coolant service just because your OEM doesn’t have that in the scheduled maintenance log book. Old coolant becomes acidic, even if the temperature range protection stays good, and will eat your head gasket.
Here in Africa, we have found the Toyota Corolla and Hilux to be the most reliable vehicles. Especially the older ones, but the new ones seem good enough so far. My aunt, a farmer's wife, drove a 2.4D diesel Hilux pickup truck to past a million kilometres when she was hijacked in it. That's a big problem with Toyota's pickup trucks and SUVs in South Africa. Criminals love them just as much. 🤷♂️
It's a Japanese Tradition. Every Single Japanese Engineer has done a 7 year Apprenticeship and work alongside the Skilled Engineer for this entire period. it's just the way things are done in Japan.
@@mrvolkswagon1710 Since the early 2000s, Toyotas have had some of the best rust proof undercoatings in the industry - unless they're doing things differently for the European market. Where they really need to step up their game is on their paints - they're way too soft and scratch way too easily.
@@theredscourge Not the case in the UK, Toyota along with pretty much all jap cars just rust to death here, their undercoating and steel work is poor. The german and french stuff is far better here for not rusting the underside
In my home country, Albania, around 3/4ths of cars on the road are classic Mercedes (W123/W124/W126, etc), especially Diesels, many of which are run on waste vegetable oil. Classic Mercedes Diesels are the only vehicles which offer most (if not all) features of a modern car, without any of the gimmicky excess, but, in an analogue package which is infinitely maintainable & infinitely serviceable.
They even are still around in Germany...I guess I see them more regular that the classic beatle. I think there are two of them in the neibourhood with an H licence plate (historical vehicle)
I asked an AA man if the Honda Jazz was as reliable as it’s reputation. His reply was, “they are all driven by pensioners who get them regularly serviced, that helps”.
My sister-in-law (mid 30's) didn't service her automatic Jazz for two years, and it needed it badly, as the car was at best not performing properly. I told her to book the car in, get a service. By her report back; it transformed the car.
I know a local guy who only uses 1st and 2nd gear around town in his Jazz, and then rides the clutch most of the way! It's painful to hear! He is partially deaf though.
@@torquecars You should've seen (and heard) my late neighbor, he used to drive his car from still stand in third gear, very slowly releasing clutch with full throttle, that was painful to even watch.
@@ShahidAli-ob5jl The diesel models definitely seem to be the best of the e90's. I had a 318 petrol a couple of years ago that let me down badly because of oil pressure and timing chain issues. Shame, because it was a gorgeous car and brilliant to drive when it wasn't giving me grief.
21 year old VW beetle 1.9 pd, regularly serviced, body undersealed. I do all the work needed on it myself, recently fit new suspension (by choice lowered coil overs). At the same time changed control arms, drop links, track rods etc. It didn’t need it all done, just my choice to keep it on the road when most its age are now coke cans.
I have driven Honda's for 37 years solid, this is my 22nd Honda, I am currently driving a late model CRV and I love it , wont touch any other brand, I have never had a single breakdown in 20 odd years, the break down on a 2001 Civic was due to me leaving the lights on and flattening the battery. We have a little mk1 Toyota Yaris 1.0 made in 2004 bought new we use it for dotting about town its still on the same exhaust & Clutch and like the Honda's never broken down and it fun to drive and parts are cheap as hell gets 40mpg around town , just put two new front tyres all seasons on her and that cost £79 fitted for both, highly underrated little car and overlooked
I owned a 2011 honda civic type r g.t. for 4 years, it never missed a beat, and I drove it really hard, i did regular oil & filter change, plugs, air filter, etc ! It was one of the most reliable cars iv ever owned.
Brilliant - I've always wondered why Skoda, Seat, VW and Audi get such different rankings. I've had cars that aren't usually rated highly and run them for 200,000 miles with no problems. And yes, we also have a Skoda. Oil & filter change every 5k, otherwise an annual service.
Skoda - from speaking to an ex dealer, around 2005 era they were upsetting Audi and VW by beating them for build and reliability. The Skoda cars from this era really are excellent and long lasting. Later ones not so much.
@KennethSmith-lb4ln Yes for sure. Plus the DSG gearboxes can get expensive if not serviced. I'm running a Fabia with the 1.9 PD engine so that's going to hopefully last a long time.
That was a very interesting presentation. I was highly concerned with reliability when I bought new recently. As I have been keeping nearly new (at my purchase) cars for ten years I decided new was a deserved reward. But I now have to keep for ten years to justify 😬 I went for new Honda Civic and now have 🤞 that it’s going to go well for ten years! Liked your style here
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for your kind words, it took quite a bit of research but I'm thinking about a car change, and like you I feel reliability and long term running costs are a major consideration. The Civic is a good option, which engine did you go for?
@@torquecars I have the hybrid which I think is only choice in the UK. It’s a 2 litre Atkinson cycle no turbo which generates 140bhp mated to a small (buffer) battery and a 184bhp electric motor. I’m hoping the engine is relaxed and the electric motor proven tech. The battery small so maybe if it wears out it can be replaced at low cost. Getting 63mpg since driven off the forecourt, 4,000 miles. Excellent car worst part is a lot of intrusive safety bells. Great drivetrain though
I remember doing a video on the Atkinson cycle, it is pretty interesting tech. ua-cam.com/video/g6u5aw9uxwE/v-deo.html You can't complain at the fuel economy from them. I was looking at the 1.5 Turbos but I'll keep an eye out on the 2.0 Hybrids now I know about them.
@@torquecars yes that’s a good idea and I think the new Civic came out in 2022 albeit not many at that stage (I think) due chip shortage. Now getting to be three years old there should be a few going nearly new, one careful oldie owner! (I’m pretty old so I think I’m allowed that comment). Good luck! Edited to add - the car is very much like an all electric instant power (184 total not 184 plus 140!) however no gears (I do mean that) and obviously no manual.
I currently have a VW scirocco 2.0 tdi at 195,000 miles, it’s cost a lot of money recently as the dpf started to play up, the EGR ect, I will take a serious look at lexus and Toyota for my next daily car
Have a look at the Toyota C-HR GR Sport edition, that would be a good and logical next move for you. The VW group car parts can cost quite a bit as you need to fix major things. 200,000 miles is a good run but probably getting to the end of its cheap reliable lifespan.
@@torquecars I would probably look at the AURIS 1.6 V MATIC in icon plus or excel trim as heated seats is a must lol the chr is a nice car but not a huge SUV fan
I'm petty sure it's the 1.0L turbo engine on Hondas which are less reliable. For reasons which seem to defy sense they used a wet belt on those and as with probably all wet belt designs if you don't maintain it religiously then you're pretty much guranteed to have problems. The 1.5L on the other hand uses a traditional chain and seems to be rock solid. In fact the only pretty much consistent issue with Hondas is with the air conditioning, mainly relay or compressor clutch failure.
Interesting, I read about oil dilution on the early 1.5T models which I'm assuming is now fixed (from about 2021). If anyone can enlighten me further I'd be grateful.
@@torquecars anecdotal, but there's a guy on UA-cam with circa 800k miles on his 2017 Civic 1.5T with no problems. Original engine and CVT (I think) transmission. I've heard it was mostly 1.5T in early CRVs that were the problem.
@@torquecars I remember that. As far as I'm aware that was on both engines and was eventually addressed with a software update. They're still particularly vulnerable to dilution from being constantly run though short journeys but then I'm pretty sure all GDI engines have that problem.
I obtained a Astra H 1.9 CDTi 150. 65k miles. I change the oil and filter every year. I always add Diaptane additive into the tank, and its now on 170k miles. And pulls like a train. No issues. I wouldn't be suprised if it makes it to 300k miles without a major internal engine issue.
Another great informative video - thanks. Just bought 2018 Octavia Scout. Researched and covered the usual points you mentioned plus history check, but paid attention to tyres fitted. In my mind if previous owner has spent money on decent tyres they will probably have looked after the car maintenance properly.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your kind words and that is a great buying tip. Remolds or generic no brand tyres are a red flag. I also hate to see unmatching tyres on every corner! Per axle I can sort of understand but not on each corner.
I thought so; wanted one for years but could never justify buying as I was using works car. Had dealer service DSG & Haldex before I picked it up as I'd heard these often get ignored
Not sure if this is true, but I read that the German manufacturers assume that owners will follow service schedules, whereas Japanese manufacturers assume that owners won't, and build their cars accordingly
My 206 HDI company car has over 200k miles, 100k of which in the last 8 years. It is an ex rental and only required serviceable items. It is used daily and occasionaly flogged to clear her out. Its an amazing workhorse. 60mpg plus always!
Right now I don’t want an EV. I’m not against them, but the battery technology needs to improve. It is not just EVs, it is the same problem with renewable energy sources. They both have a problem with storing the energy.
the batteries aren't going to magically improve all of a sudden so don't hold your breathe lithium ions are the state of the art and are unlikely to be significantly improved within the decade
Buy one and therefore support the companies development costs instead of 'riding' on the backs of those that do. We'll all be supporting each other, in a 'green' way, thereafter! I don't think Americans care though... just an educated opinion. 😊
Guess why I would never sell my Volvo 245 'Brick' 1993? Only 300 000 km on the second cam belt and regular oil changes. The fun is not the burn outs but the smiles on people seeing it.
Lexus leads the pack. Not surprising though. I drive a dinosaur Lexus GX 460 (with V8 N.A. engine) and I can attest to its bulletproof reliability. Thanks for what you do. 🇨🇦
What is definition of “ hard-working car?” Because I am torn between buying a 1.5 turbocharged engine and 2.5 natural. Is there some sort of measurement to a hard working engine.
Cars are Purposely built unreliable. In this day an age cars can be built super reliable but the car companies got together and said lets make our parts with flaws so we can fleece our customers. Lets put planned Obsolescence Redundant shoddy parts and sensors around the engine and program the computer to come on for the slightest problem so the check engine light ruins their day.
@@douglastaylor8039 How are they "better" if they are not in the Top 10 Reliability (owned mostly by the top Japanese brands)? Better than what? Better than the Chinese and Indian clunkers (that are some of the most unreliable brands, the ex-British and ex-Swedish brands included)? Yes, they are definitely better than the worst. But I was referring to who pioneered and perfected the planned obsolescence, with the help of the German engineers.
Thank you for the informative and amazing videos you created. What's your opinion on the Ford Mustang GT v8 from 2019+ is it reliable enough as a daily driver for 150.000 miles? I am considering to buy one next year. I will use it for work-home short distance and once in 3 months for holiday driving 250miles and once in a year for 1000 mile. I am almost 40 so I don't want to do anything crazy with it. I will be occasionally driving through Germany where I plan to do max 125mph. Or is it wiser to settle for something like a BMW 328i.
The best (very reliable and low TCO=Total Cost of Ownership) cars are the top Japanese cars, leaders of their segments in reliability and low TCO. You have to look at many relevant statistics - from other markets as well - like Consumer Reports annual reliability surveys, CarEdge, ISeeCars etc. Then you'll understand that instead of being a fan of a certain brand it is far better to acquire only champions, like my Miata ND2 RF G-184, Suzuki Jimny LCV or Lexus UX 250h F Sport. Better buy used as the previous owner was hit with the big initial depreciation. The financial freedom choice: buy few months/years used Japanese-built top cars, with at least 25%/50% discount on MRSP, with naturally aspirated engines of max. 2L, 200HP, manual transmission or ECVT for self-charging hybrids, preferably not the top of the line (you don't need that much electronics) and maintain it aggressively (changing oil and filters around 5000 miles for a regular driver, doing rustproofing regularly etc.).
G'day mate, have you heard of the Ford Australia Barra? 4.0l, EFI, dohc, vvt. Inline six. They get 300,000 KMs abused, 500 well maintained, and many taxis did 1 million kilometres.
@@torquecars it’s the 2JZ of Australia, just less complex so if you don’t fetter with it too much it is pretty much indestructible. Not going to lie. I did fetter with mine too much.
Reliability indexes can be rather misleading. Are they for cars of a maximum or minimum age? Do they take into account cost and time to remedy an issue, or just the number of issues? Is there a specific model (or models) dragging down or even pushing up the overall score? Also, small volume manufacturers may not appear at all.
most of the mechanical issues can be sorted out by a DIY or at a garage. Corrosion is often the reason that cars get to the scrapeyard. That and a collision damage may be too expensive to fix. I used to be a regular collector at the scrape yeard, but now they do not allow self-service any more. Make it even more difficult to be a DIY
All true. My simple, low powered, naturally aspirated, light Mitsubishi Mirage/Space Star, driven by this slow driving older man that does not want to spend money on fuel, never had any defect in 10 years time. And it is a CVT.....
Well you have to count not only mtb failures but also easy of repairs. Fe i have to adjust carborator every so often but it is 2 mins of job or 15 if you are green. But when ypu ICM fails you talk months to wait for parts and hours of diagnosis.
Just sold our 17 year old Honda Jazz -. very reliable . We heard the new model has a potential brake simulator issue and 500 million cars various Honda models have been recalled in Japan and we thought the new Jazz was a bit expensive . We eventually bought a two year old Lexus UX hybrid for not much more , got a good deal on maintenance and we are getting nearly 55 to the gallon . Happy days .
@@torquecars No not at all , it’s quite small. The jazz is small on the outside , big on the inside ,the UX is the opposite but built like a tank compared to the Jazz. We are a retired couple and seldom carry passengers. Our priority was reliability . We want to drive across France and Spain. The thought of a brake failure in the middle of France was not something we could tolerate. Sad ,it would have been our fourth Honda .
Combining your points on Honda's high-rev, high-output engines with the larger, naturally-aspirated engines -- an engine that is designed to produce only a fraction of its full potential is also a candidate for long life. For example, the original GM LS1 engine was tuned to provide 325-350 hp, but is easily capable of 450-500 hp. An unmodified, well-maintained LS1 will run hundreds of thousands of miles, because the lubrication and cooling systems are overbuilt for the actual output.
Reliability should also include total cost/mile Id say. My golf4 tdi has done 300k miles with only basic service. No oil or water use. 20 km/liter. Nice car
Unless I missed it, the topic of *Service Intervals.* I see service intervals go up to 20,000 miles or 2 years .... along with said cars having reliability issues and/or catastrophic engine issues. Any correlation?
I'm sure you are on to something there but the stats don't differentiate diesel/hybrid/petrol which often have varying service intervals. Do Japanese car makers GENERALLY stick to annual or 7500 mile services? Honda seem to recommend regular oil changes at 7500,15000,22500,37500,45000,52000 miles respectively?
@@torquecars Thanks for your input. When asking that question, I was thinking primarily of Range Rover and the engine disasters they've had. Now they're using BMW V8's, which in my mind is very much; "Out of the frying pan ....... "
It's super easy to make her reliable car,low power and CVT gearbox. With low power you have an engine that it's not stressed and with the CVT you have a car that will never be driven fast.
Maintenance and common sense variable driving styles have been successful for me. Some cars a just lemons though, sucks when you get one. Can't win all the time.
Cheaper cars are less complex. There are less things to fail. Whatever breaks, is cheaper. Cheaper cars depreasiate less. "Lemons" are the best economic choice. But not neccesarily nice to drive.
By ‘lemons’, I’m guessing they mean cars which often go wrong irrespective of make, size, price etc. I had a Focus which was a right lemon. It put me off Ford forever.
I HAVE HAD MY FORD 2009 MK 6 FIESTA NEARLY 15 YEARS AND ITS 83,000 MILES AND STILL AS GOOD AS NEW . VERY FEW PROBLEMS A COUPLE OF BATTERIES AND TYRES AND THREE FRONT ROAD SPRINGS . DUE TO SHITTY POT HOLES. NO BREAK DOWNS EVER ( TOUCH WOOD ). and still reluctant to get rid of it.
@@daveyboy7305 same engine in old audi A3, love mine, 120,000 and still reliable and running well, regular service and regular motorway blasts, best engine they made
I can not believe how Teslas has increased in my rural area over the last year. I swear every 15th vehicle I pass on the Highway today is a Tesla. A year ago I couldn’t point to one if I was looking right at it. I see no real reason for all the center dash electronics today. I do everything with my phone. I even have all my car gauges on my phone today. Not sure I need anything besides speedometer on the dash. Maybe fuel on dash too.
My last two cars have been diesel powered which I find to be very reliable when cruising on the motorway at 70mph with low rpm the engine is not struggling I like having lots of torque but the best thing is the mpg I also don’t have to pay road tax because of the low emissions
Just buy a 1997-2000 corolla compact pre facelift. Reliable, fun, good and cheap parts. Engine dies? Get a new one or just get a 5efe for a bit more power
I disagree with that suspension part. It turned out that a much simpler suspension design like macpherson is much more prone to fail in comparison to a more complex double wishbone suspension. Think of your example of the displacement. Easier work an now think of two persons doing the same job. Its less stress to the single component and more reliable in the long run.
I do share your concerns and the frustration is that most of these stats and tables only look at 5 year old cars so don't tell the long term story. Based on these stats EV's seem reliable - they don't have the frequency of problems but I doubt the long term viability of these and will do a video to express these concerns in the near future as this is a topic that deserves exploration. For me battery range and lifespan and availability and ease of charge are major factors that will affect the long term viability. I just don't think we have the infrastructure here in the UK especially considering how few can park outside their own home and run a cable to the car. Spending 10-15k on a used EV and throwing it away after 5-10 years seems crazy to me. Perhaps the aftermarket in batteries will mature and make it cost effective.
@@torquecars "Spending 10-15k on a used EV and throwing it away after 5-10 years seems crazy to me. Perhaps the aftermarket in batteries will mature and make it cost effective." Well it hasn't with mobile phones.
Thanks for your vidéo. Reliablity for me is extremely important for me. I sold my 2001 Audi tt 225, although I loved, but saw that too many people had problèmes, mainly to do with electronics, and I did'nt want to spend time using a lap top trying to find the faults. I therefore got a 2004 Mazda MX5 nbfl 146, which I enjoy, but really miss the turbo character of the Audi with its torque
BEV is a scam. Expensive, unreliable (check Consumer Reports annual reliability survey), high TCO (Total Cost of Ownership), dangerous, damaging the environment, impractical for long trips or trailing etc.
I agree w/Japanese vehicles Toyota & Honda Generally More Reliable… 🤔😎Would you do a video of Reliability for the high end Kia & Hyundai vehicles like Telluride, Palisade, Santa Fe? As well as Rolls Royce & Bentley SUV Reliability? I Appreciate the Safety Features of Today, What is your outlook on them? (I’m a Fan of Manual crank windows, Door locks & Seats - Quite annoying & unnecessary to Wait for the multi seat adjust vs instant multi manual seat adjust❕😎😳 DEFINITELY More interested in Reliable, Dependable vs performance 😎😎🙃🙃😎😎Thank you for your content -Glad it made its way to my feed or whatever, on my UA-cam.
Are you then saying that the Lexus is 300h with its various electronic functions and complicated hybrid engine is and or will be a far more unreliable car?
Lexus always seem to sit at the top of the reliability tables, although I've heard some claims that the reliability has dropped off a little in the last few years. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on this.
Lexus is #1 in reliability in any serious statistics. The self-charging hybrids (most are from Toyota/Lexus) too. Plus Lexus is #3 in low TCO (Total Cost of Ownership) despite being an entry luxury brand. That's all.
look after the car and it will generally work, you can't really find many German cars that die for no reason, the average person doesn't even change oil so obviously they wont last
Its dead simple, they are all reliable if you look after them and fix every tiny defect when it happens. People tell me my family fleet are unreliable cars - really? I have on my drive two Tid Saabs, an Alfa Giulietta JTDM, an E39 540i and a 20 year old 206 Sport. Everything works on all five cars, they are serviced by me every year, repaired before a component gives up completely and checked over every month. Mileages range from 80k to 190k and I would drive any of them to the South of France tomorrow.
My reliable car is a Merc 2.7 cdi 5 cylinder CLK 2004 , and yes very well said ,look after it and repair with new parts , take to a 1st class garage , change oil every year with premium no1 oils , use desiel additive everything you fill up which keeps the system clean .
The best car i have buy, and i had buy 7 new cars, i have 42 y/old and in 2009 i buy a clc 220 cdi just because i want at thw time a 3 doors diesel, and my God it has now 170k kilometres and never ever gave me problems, the last seevice was made in 2022 and i make maybe 2k km and he ask now a new service, not because of usage but because of the 2 y/old last service... after covid i buy a new class a 200d and my good problems problems.... i will sell it and start driving the clc... and before that the golf mk3 vr6 i made 280 k km wirhout problems but now it demands a big motor open service.. almost 4k € of repairs.... but it will be like new
Everyone here commenting about japanese engine but forget that the car is not just the engine, i would still choose german because of a much nicer interior since i spend most of my time in my car... also diesel ofc, i do long distances so no problem with dpf or egr and all of the stuff that breaks to you guys because of city driving
Electric cars come with lots of high tech ‘toys’. The dash on some cars looks more like a high end computer than a car. These ‘toys’ cost a lot to repair/replace. I much prefer old technology that can often be sorted by a competent owner. Thankfully I’m old enough to see my 2007 BMW X3 ‘til the end of its, and my, life.
That's pretty much all they do now for the sake of emissions thankfully though many are adding back in port injection as a secondary fuel system which really does help.
Honda Goldwing motorcycle in 1982 starter clutch failed at 12k miles after 18 months Honda Accord in 2006 Engine developed severe rattle and hesitated when accelerating 1 year old Honda Outboard motor 75HP in 2008 misfire and poor starting issues. 2 years old. My experience of Honda products over the years may have been unlucky but have not bought Honda since as didn't want to risk another.
Toyota & Lexus: #2 & #1 in reliability plus #1 & #3 in low TCO. Why are people talking about German brands when the best (reliable and low TCO) cars are Japanese?!? Beside Toyota/Lexus, in some segments Mazda, Suzuki, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Honda are also excellent. Even Nissan is improving after their Jatco CVT old disaster...
IMO, Japanese engines are less innovative than say German engines. Or, maybe put a different way, less complex as they're not trying to make an engine that is the most powerful, best MPG, lowest emissions, lightest and other things. Most Honda Civics come with a small choice of 4 cylinder economy based engines (excluding the Type R) A 1 Series has 3, 4 and 6 cylinder engines ranging from small power eco driven right up to a B58. That B58 is the current BMW 6 pot of choice and is the result of lessons learned on the N54 and N55. Its also in a Toyota ya know 😉
Compare 90s and 00s German high performance engines Vs American ones. The E39 S62 was 400hp from a 4.9 and E60 S85 was 500hp from 5.0 The US cars needed 7+ liters or superchargers to get those figures. But they also didn't spin rod bearings and break vanos and actuators etc in the process. AND the power was at 3k not 8k rpm.
The Japs are innovative.. They had variable valve timing in lots, of cars before the Euro brands... Mitsubishi = Mivec, Toyota =VVTI, Honda= Vtec, Nissan = Neo VVL.. Toyota also seems to have the most success with hybrid.. Mazda have this, Sky Active X which is very interesting and also used Rotary when no other brand would risk it.. The, Japs are far more innovative than the Germans.. Far more...
I suspect that when the bulk of EV's hit the 10-15 year mark things will be drastically worse as the batteries start failing and effectively writing off the car. I'm planning a deep dive into EV's as this is a hot debate at the moment. I will try to stay objective though but I'm always interested to hear your thoughts and opinions on them. I purely based that statement I made from the reliability stats I was able to review (What Car etc..) with Tesla sitting at 10th most reliable. Chinese Ev's didn;t make it into the survey based on up to 5 year old cars.
@@torquecars, check the Consumer Reports annual reliability survey, they point at BEV and PHEV as very unreliable; meanwhile the self-charging hybrids are the most reliable (the ECVT helps too).
I've got an old Nissan Sunny, built in 2001 in South Africa (called the Sentra here). It's port injected 1.4 litre, no cat, no egr, no abs and no airbags. It's been super reliable for the last 23 years. I don't think that Rogue will ever last that long. Since Renault got involved with Nissan, their cars have become garbage 😢
@codincoman9019 We'll have to wait and see, but mostly, all new cars seem to be built cheaply, although they cost way more. Even Toyota. Guess I'll be looking for an older Corolla if I have to replace the Nissan Sentra. I keep a firm hand on it, so I hope it can last many more years. 😀🇿🇦🙋🏼♂️
I own one of the mist reliable vehicle ever made my 1997 Toyota Hilux with the 22R engine and five years ago l paid aud $1500 with 410000 kilometres and l still have my 1997 Toyota Hilux very simple and basic vehicle extremely low tech and still has its original carburator yes it has a carburator and no cat converter and is today worth aud $5000 to $6000 the Hilux iis also manual and has original manual windows l laugh at your Audi were the rear power windows have failed because my Hilux hasn't got rear windows infact its a single cab ute with an aluminium tray and the list of reliable cars and Lexus number one and Toyota number two buy a Toyota ldid and to be honest l didn't know how reliable Toyota's ate until l started watching you tube and researching Google especially my 1997 Toyota Hilux ute but a lot of Australians buy Toyota's because Toyota's are number one selling car brand for the past 25 years and the only other brand that may knock them off number one spot is Mazda as been the number one seller that is Toyota for the past 25 years there are a lot of Toyota's on the road and that is so true and there are many Toyota's over 25 30 and 40 years still driving around and don't forget there are many Toyota's and Lexuses that have done over 1000000 miles still with there original engine just look on you tube now thats reliability plus so its a no brainer buy a Toyota or Lexus if you want a reliable vehicle most Australians aren't wrong you mentioned a couple of things concerning the drive train my Hilux is obviously rear wheel drive but with age comes with parts wearing out l have changed the three universal joints last year to the cost of aud $250 and a complete new exhaust system which wasn't original to a big cost but all the repairs l have most of them l have done myself with the original purchase price and the cost oc repairs the cost is still under aud $5000 and that is another thing about owning a Toyota in Australia any older Toyota they will deprecate but after a whike Toyota's start appreciating as my Hilux has because of there rick solid reputation for reliability and you people in the UK with your European and British brands which aren't that reliable were in Australia we buy Toyota's Lexuses Mazdas Hondas and Suzuki's mostly and there is the odd European and British car around and the younger drivers aren't into British classic cars they are into classic Australian and Japanese cars because they are reliable and l haven't even touched on tbe Australian built cars and the last thing is rust were in Australia the weather is much kinder to motor vehicles very little snow l only seen snow once in my life as for rust my Hilux only has surface rust and tbe cab has no rust as for EVs well 49% of present EV owners will never buy another EV and EVs aren't that reliable less reliable than petrol cars and my Hilux has never failed in 5 years of ownership and the other day l saw my first EV break down and l was in my Hilux it was a GWM ORA typical Chinese crap
@@torquecars ln Australia the prices for older Toyotas are doubling were a year ago 1998 to 2001 Toyota Camerys were under a year were selling for aud $2000 to $3000 are now selling for aud $5000 to $6000 and there areplenty of them around in Australia it's called the Toyota tax were a similar sort of vehicle the Toyota sells for more because of there rock solid reputation for reliability and they were also built in Australia
@@torquecars Ltd happening in Australia especially with Toyota's in Australia they do deprecate but after a couple of years the actually start appreciating like my 1997 Toyota Hilux
A diesel for 7000 miles annually, seems insane to me, unless you've found some elderly non-turbo model.. it'll be great to begin with but that's not really enough miles to keep one running well, unless you only use it for long runs a couple of times a week. Not sure I'd trust a 1.5 in a golf as far as long-term reliability is concerned (but new cars are appliances made to a price anyway), the later BMW petrol engines are supposed to be alright for reliability, I'm not sure about the Audi.
![🚫10 Driving Habits That KILL Your Car 💥[Warning]](/img/n.gif)
Change oil and filter every 3000 to 5000 miles with decent oil and a quality filter. Change air filter at the same time. Take for a good run at about 70 mph for several miles (motorway) once a week if only local commuting. Don't fly over speed bumps (suspension) and treat your car to a good wax twice a year and coat the underside with a liquid wax once a year and you'll have a reliable car. Ignore manufacturers' oil change intervals as it is BS. The engineers always recommend half what they state. All they want is the car to last the warranty period, then you're on your own. Remember the manufacturers rely on cars breaking down after this warranty period. Join a forum that is dedicated to your make and model of car. Use decent fuel.
@@craig357 I prefer to wax every quarter but agree with and practice your other points. In particular going for regular longer runs, because it's good for the car and because early morning Sunday drives along a country backroad are fun.
Oh wow. What an awesone comment. ❤
Except for the sensors that fail; that none of that prevents; and that the engine will last x times longer than the body, whatever (unless you live in a very dry climate).
Eh. It’s very dependent on what car you have and how you drive. Some oils are good beyond 10,000 miles in certain engines but those use cases are few and far between.
Yes this! May I add… don’t think you may omit coolant service just because your OEM doesn’t have that in the scheduled maintenance log book. Old coolant becomes acidic, even if the temperature range protection stays good, and will eat your head gasket.
Here in Africa, we have found the Toyota Corolla and Hilux to be the most reliable vehicles. Especially the older ones, but the new ones seem good enough so far. My aunt, a farmer's wife, drove a 2.4D diesel Hilux pickup truck to past a million kilometres when she was hijacked in it. That's a big problem with Toyota's pickup trucks and SUVs in South Africa. Criminals love them just as much. 🤷♂️
It's a Japanese Tradition.
Every Single Japanese Engineer has done a 7 year Apprenticeship and work alongside the Skilled Engineer for this entire period. it's just the way things are done in Japan.
They need to learn how to under seal cars that come to the uk, they shocking for rust
@@mrvolkswagon1710 I'm happy with rust, are you happy with a blown up VW engine made from plastic........
@@mrvolkswagon1710 Since the early 2000s, Toyotas have had some of the best rust proof undercoatings in the industry - unless they're doing things differently for the European market. Where they really need to step up their game is on their paints - they're way too soft and scratch way too easily.
@@theredscourgeHondas had the same problem with thin paint
@@theredscourge Not the case in the UK, Toyota along with pretty much all jap cars just rust to death here, their undercoating and steel work is poor. The german and french stuff is far better here for not rusting the underside
In my home country, Albania, around 3/4ths of cars on the road are classic Mercedes (W123/W124/W126, etc), especially Diesels, many of which are run on waste vegetable oil. Classic Mercedes Diesels are the only vehicles which offer most (if not all) features of a modern car, without any of the gimmicky excess, but, in an analogue package which is infinitely maintainable & infinitely serviceable.
@@stoneylonesome4062 pse genjen mer plak
They even are still around in Germany...I guess I see them more regular that the classic beatle.
I think there are two of them in the neibourhood with an H licence plate (historical vehicle)
1983 Mercedes 2.4 D W123 Best all round car I have ever owned.
Albania sounds like a good holiday destination if it really is full of lovely old cars.
@@sim6699 plenty o' beaters rather, tho Albania is nice. Croatia nearby is super nice, and i'm partial to Italy as well
I asked an AA man if the Honda Jazz was as reliable as it’s reputation. His reply was, “they are all driven by pensioners who get them regularly serviced, that helps”.
My sister-in-law (mid 30's) didn't service her automatic Jazz for two years, and it needed it badly, as the car was at best not performing properly. I told her to book the car in, get a service. By her report back; it transformed the car.
@@mariog4707 OAP's don't thrash their Jazz, unlike young kids in their Golfs or Astras etc .
I know a local guy who only uses 1st and 2nd gear around town in his Jazz, and then rides the clutch most of the way! It's painful to hear! He is partially deaf though.
@@torquecars You should've seen (and heard) my late neighbor, he used to drive his car from still stand in third gear, very slowly releasing clutch with full throttle, that was painful to even watch.
I have one as my daily, 2006. I get 60mpg. It's a very relaxing car to drive
I love my Diesel mk2 Honda CRV. Simple, well made and only needed one bulb changed for its 19th mot :)
Great vid! Have a 2006 BMW E90 320D M Sport, service it regularly with a good quality oil & parts. Car is running like a dream at 170,000 miles.
@@ShahidAli-ob5jl
The diesel models definitely seem to be the best of the e90's.
I had a 318 petrol a couple of years ago that let me down badly because of oil pressure and timing chain issues.
Shame, because it was a gorgeous car and brilliant to drive when it wasn't giving me grief.
if your buying a non m car BMW with a petrol your doing something wrong to be fair
21 year old VW beetle 1.9 pd, regularly serviced, body undersealed. I do all the work needed on it myself, recently fit new suspension (by choice lowered coil overs). At the same time changed control arms, drop links, track rods etc. It didn’t need it all done, just my choice to keep it on the road when most its age are now coke cans.
Educational and thought provoking as always. Keep up the great work. 💯👍
Toyota aygo 1.0 2007 on 130k miles and feels rock solid, body rot (just starting) will get it before anything mechanical
The irony is that the only reason honda and others went for turbo engines was because of CO2 emissions.
Now more CO2 is wasted on maintenance parts.
Brilliant analysis every point relevant 🇦🇺
I have driven Honda's for 37 years solid, this is my 22nd Honda, I am currently driving a late model CRV and I love it , wont touch any other brand, I have never had a single breakdown in 20 odd years, the break down on a 2001 Civic was due to me leaving the lights on and flattening the battery. We have a little mk1 Toyota Yaris 1.0 made in 2004 bought new we use it for dotting about town its still on the same exhaust & Clutch and like the Honda's never broken down and it fun to drive and parts are cheap as hell gets 40mpg around town , just put two new front tyres all seasons on her and that cost £79 fitted for both, highly underrated little car and overlooked
£79 ! what brand are they ?
@@dontpanicblinksome cheap junk..
I owned a 2011 honda civic type r g.t. for 4 years, it never missed a beat, and I drove it really hard, i did regular oil & filter change, plugs, air filter, etc ! It was one of the most reliable cars iv ever owned.
Brilliant - I've always wondered why Skoda, Seat, VW and Audi get such different rankings. I've had cars that aren't usually rated highly and run them for 200,000 miles with no problems. And yes, we also have a Skoda. Oil & filter change every 5k, otherwise an annual service.
Skoda VAG tsi gen two engine is a ticking time bomb.
Skoda - from speaking to an ex dealer, around 2005 era they were upsetting Audi and VW by beating them for build and reliability. The Skoda cars from this era really are excellent and long lasting. Later ones not so much.
That's interesting to know. Thanks for sharing.
Love to buy a Skoda but with VW TSI engines have to think twice.
@KennethSmith-lb4ln Yes for sure. Plus the DSG gearboxes can get expensive if not serviced. I'm running a Fabia with the 1.9 PD engine so that's going to hopefully last a long time.
@@KennethSmith-lb4ln yeah, hell no on the E888 petrol. NEVER own this engine!
That was a very interesting presentation. I was highly concerned with reliability when I bought new recently. As I have been keeping nearly new (at my purchase) cars for ten years I decided new was a deserved reward. But I now have to keep for ten years to justify 😬 I went for new Honda Civic and now have 🤞 that it’s going to go well for ten years! Liked your style here
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for your kind words, it took quite a bit of research but I'm thinking about a car change, and like you I feel reliability and long term running costs are a major consideration. The Civic is a good option, which engine did you go for?
@@torquecars I have the hybrid which I think is only choice in the UK. It’s a 2 litre Atkinson cycle no turbo which generates 140bhp mated to a small (buffer) battery and a 184bhp electric motor. I’m hoping the engine is relaxed and the electric motor proven tech. The battery small so maybe if it wears out it can be replaced at low cost. Getting 63mpg since driven off the forecourt, 4,000 miles. Excellent car worst part is a lot of intrusive safety bells. Great drivetrain though
I remember doing a video on the Atkinson cycle, it is pretty interesting tech. ua-cam.com/video/g6u5aw9uxwE/v-deo.html You can't complain at the fuel economy from them. I was looking at the 1.5 Turbos but I'll keep an eye out on the 2.0 Hybrids now I know about them.
@@torquecars yes that’s a good idea and I think the new Civic came out in 2022 albeit not many at that stage (I think) due chip shortage. Now getting to be three years old there should be a few going nearly new, one careful oldie owner! (I’m pretty old so I think I’m allowed that comment). Good luck! Edited to add - the car is very much like an all electric instant power (184 total not 184 plus 140!) however no gears (I do mean that) and obviously no manual.
I currently have a VW scirocco 2.0 tdi at 195,000 miles, it’s cost a lot of money recently as the dpf started to play up, the EGR ect, I will take a serious look at lexus and Toyota for my next daily car
Have a look at the Toyota C-HR GR Sport edition, that would be a good and logical next move for you. The VW group car parts can cost quite a bit as you need to fix major things. 200,000 miles is a good run but probably getting to the end of its cheap reliable lifespan.
@@torquecars I would probably look at the AURIS 1.6 V MATIC in icon plus or excel trim as heated seats is a must lol the chr is a nice car but not a huge SUV fan
Well i would keep something german, much nicer interior and better rust protection...
@@2BuckShot the japs rot like crazy, all the people in here clearly ain't been under many jap cars.
Get the egr,dpf,adblue deleted 😊
I'm petty sure it's the 1.0L turbo engine on Hondas which are less reliable. For reasons which seem to defy sense they used a wet belt on those and as with probably all wet belt designs if you don't maintain it religiously then you're pretty much guranteed to have problems. The 1.5L on the other hand uses a traditional chain and seems to be rock solid.
In fact the only pretty much consistent issue with Hondas is with the air conditioning, mainly relay or compressor clutch failure.
Interesting, I read about oil dilution on the early 1.5T models which I'm assuming is now fixed (from about 2021). If anyone can enlighten me further I'd be grateful.
@@torquecars anecdotal, but there's a guy on UA-cam with circa 800k miles on his 2017 Civic 1.5T with no problems. Original engine and CVT (I think) transmission. I've heard it was mostly 1.5T in early CRVs that were the problem.
@@torquecars I remember that. As far as I'm aware that was on both engines and was eventually addressed with a software update.
They're still particularly vulnerable to dilution from being constantly run though short journeys but then I'm pretty sure all GDI engines have that problem.
Rewind to the early 1980s. SAAB 2-liter turbo and Volvo 2,1 turbo made the same power. As 5 liters of american V8s. And they were more reliable.
I obtained a Astra H 1.9 CDTi 150. 65k miles. I change the oil and filter every year. I always add Diaptane additive into the tank, and its now on 170k miles. And pulls like a train. No issues. I wouldn't be suprised if it makes it to 300k miles without a major internal engine issue.
Another great informative video - thanks. Just bought 2018 Octavia Scout. Researched and covered the usual points you mentioned plus history check, but paid attention to tyres fitted. In my mind if previous owner has spent money on decent tyres they will probably have looked after the car maintenance properly.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your kind words and that is a great buying tip. Remolds or generic no brand tyres are a red flag. I also hate to see unmatching tyres on every corner! Per axle I can sort of understand but not on each corner.
@@torquecars👍
A great buy The Scout.
I thought so; wanted one for years but could never justify buying as I was using works car. Had dealer service DSG & Haldex before I picked it up as I'd heard these often get ignored
Not sure if this is true, but I read that the German manufacturers assume that owners will follow service schedules, whereas Japanese manufacturers assume that owners won't, and build their cars accordingly
My 206 HDI company car has over 200k miles, 100k of which in the last 8 years. It is an ex rental and only required serviceable items. It is used daily and occasionaly flogged to clear her out. Its an amazing workhorse. 60mpg plus always!
@@adrianvella7661 may I ask how much liter engine
@@mehmetozer8722 1.4 4cyl diesel HDi
@@mehmetozer8722 1.4ltr HDI
@@mehmetozer872299% 1.4 HDI
Not surprised Audi are lower down on reliability when I see how they are driven.
As an Audi Owner I am shocked at this totally unfair generalization - I can name ONE careful considerate Audi Driver. lol
@@torquecarsYou now know two.
Yes, what's the deal with Audi drivers?!
Audi A3 2lt diesel driver.I look after mine, don’t drive it hard but not labour engine. Service every year with less than 7,000 miles a year.
Right now I don’t want an EV. I’m not against them, but the battery technology needs to improve. It is not just EVs, it is the same problem with renewable energy sources. They both have a problem with storing the energy.
the batteries aren't going to magically improve all of a sudden so don't hold your breathe
lithium ions are the state of the art and are unlikely to be significantly improved within the decade
Buy one and therefore support the companies development costs instead of 'riding' on the backs of those that do. We'll all be supporting each other, in a 'green' way, thereafter!
I don't think Americans care though... just an educated opinion. 😊
Non turbo honda with a manual six speed.
Like 8th or 9th gen civic with decent mileage and maintenance record
Guess why I would never sell my Volvo 245 'Brick' 1993? Only 300 000 km on the second cam belt and regular oil changes. The fun is not the burn outs but the smiles on people seeing it.
Minor issue like catching fire?
Shoplist:
JMD car
NA gasoline engine
Rather big displacement
Medium power
Stick shifter
...
sounds like Subaru 2.4L or Mazda 2.5L....
Lexus leads the pack. Not surprising though. I drive a dinosaur Lexus GX 460 (with V8 N.A. engine) and I can attest to its bulletproof reliability. Thanks for what you do. 🇨🇦
What is definition of “ hard-working car?”
Because I am torn between buying a 1.5 turbocharged engine and 2.5 natural. Is there some sort of measurement to a hard working engine.
Cars are Purposely built unreliable. In this day an age cars can be built super reliable but the car companies got together and said lets make our parts with flaws so we can fleece our customers. Lets put planned Obsolescence Redundant shoddy parts and sensors around the engine and program the computer to come on for the slightest problem so the check engine light ruins their day.
Yep. Planned obsolescence became a big thing after 2005, especially thanks to the Koreans.
@codincoman9019 why the Koreans ?? Their cars are better.
@@douglastaylor8039 How are they "better" if they are not in the Top 10 Reliability (owned mostly by the top Japanese brands)?
Better than what?
Better than the Chinese and Indian clunkers (that are some of the most unreliable brands, the ex-British and ex-Swedish brands included)? Yes, they are definitely better than the worst.
But I was referring to who pioneered and perfected the planned obsolescence, with the help of the German engineers.
Thank you for the informative and amazing videos you created. What's your opinion on the Ford Mustang GT v8 from 2019+ is it reliable enough as a daily driver for 150.000 miles? I am considering to buy one next year. I will use it for work-home short distance and once in 3 months for holiday driving 250miles and once in a year for 1000 mile. I am almost 40 so I don't want to do anything crazy with it. I will be occasionally driving through Germany where I plan to do max 125mph. Or is it wiser to settle for something like a BMW 328i.
The best (very reliable and low TCO=Total Cost of Ownership) cars are the top Japanese cars, leaders of their segments in reliability and low TCO.
You have to look at many relevant statistics - from other markets as well - like Consumer Reports annual reliability surveys, CarEdge, ISeeCars etc.
Then you'll understand that instead of being a fan of a certain brand it is far better to acquire only champions, like my Miata ND2 RF G-184, Suzuki Jimny LCV or Lexus UX 250h F Sport.
Better buy used as the previous owner was hit with the big initial depreciation.
The financial freedom choice: buy few months/years used Japanese-built top cars, with at least 25%/50% discount on MRSP, with naturally aspirated engines of max. 2L, 200HP, manual transmission or ECVT for self-charging hybrids, preferably not the top of the line (you don't need that much electronics) and maintain it aggressively (changing oil and filters around 5000 miles for a regular driver, doing rustproofing regularly etc.).
G'day mate, have you heard of the Ford Australia Barra? 4.0l, EFI, dohc, vvt. Inline six. They get 300,000 KMs abused, 500 well maintained, and many taxis did 1 million kilometres.
I’ve mentioned it to our friend before. I miss that engine!
Good shout.
This engine keeps cropping up in comments. We don't get them over here, so time for me to do some investigating it sounds fantastic.
@@torquecars it’s the 2JZ of Australia, just less complex so if you don’t fetter with it too much it is pretty much indestructible. Not going to lie. I did fetter with mine too much.
@@KeithPatrick-wo5cw Except the volume is 4 liters. In stead of 3 liters. Making it more powerful....
Reliability indexes can be rather misleading. Are they for cars of a maximum or minimum age? Do they take into account cost and time to remedy an issue, or just the number of issues? Is there a specific model (or models) dragging down or even pushing up the overall score? Also, small volume manufacturers may not appear at all.
most of the mechanical issues can be sorted out by a DIY or at a garage. Corrosion is often the reason that cars get to the scrapeyard. That and a collision damage may be too expensive to fix. I used to be a regular collector at the scrape yeard, but now they do not allow self-service any more. Make it even more difficult to be a DIY
All true. My simple, low powered, naturally aspirated, light Mitsubishi Mirage/Space Star, driven by this slow driving older man that does not want to spend money on fuel, never had any defect in 10 years time. And it is a CVT.....
Such a quality video
Well you have to count not only mtb failures but also easy of repairs.
Fe i have to adjust carborator every so often but it is 2 mins of job or 15 if you are green. But when ypu ICM fails you talk months to wait for parts and hours of diagnosis.
My ideal car = Italian design using Japenese parts built in Japan.
Just sold our 17 year old Honda Jazz -. very reliable . We heard the new model has a potential brake simulator issue and 500 million cars various Honda models have been recalled in Japan and we thought the new Jazz was a bit expensive . We eventually bought a two year old Lexus UX hybrid for not much more , got a good deal on maintenance and we are getting nearly 55 to the gallon . Happy days .
Correction 500k . LOL
I quite like the look of those UX - they seem pretty well built, is is much bigger than the Jazz inside?
@@torquecars No not at all , it’s quite small. The jazz is small on the outside , big on the inside ,the UX is the opposite but built like a tank compared to the Jazz. We are a retired couple and seldom carry passengers. Our priority was reliability . We want to drive across France and Spain. The thought of a brake failure in the middle of France was not something we could tolerate. Sad ,it would have been our fourth Honda .
I don’t know a small 2litre k20 engine works hard every time you drive it but it loves to work hard and the Revs
Combining your points on Honda's high-rev, high-output engines with the larger, naturally-aspirated engines -- an engine that is designed to produce only a fraction of its full potential is also a candidate for long life. For example, the original GM LS1 engine was tuned to provide 325-350 hp, but is easily capable of 450-500 hp. An unmodified, well-maintained LS1 will run hundreds of thousands of miles, because the lubrication and cooling systems are overbuilt for the actual output.
Many Skoda’s are now taxi’s.
My pal came home in a Octavia with 200,000 miles on the clock. A diesel!
Which are the VW recent reliable engines you are mentioning?
Hint: VW is #27 in the Consumer Reports annual reliability survey.
Reliability should also include total cost/mile Id say. My golf4 tdi has done 300k miles with only basic service. No oil or water use. 20 km/liter. Nice car
I would also like to add beefy supporting mods help alleviate heat and brings the reliability back up.
Unless I missed it, the topic of *Service Intervals.* I see service intervals go up to 20,000 miles or 2 years .... along with said cars having reliability issues and/or catastrophic engine issues. Any correlation?
I'm sure you are on to something there but the stats don't differentiate diesel/hybrid/petrol which often have varying service intervals. Do Japanese car makers GENERALLY stick to annual or 7500 mile services? Honda seem to recommend regular oil changes at 7500,15000,22500,37500,45000,52000 miles respectively?
@@torquecars Thanks for your input.
When asking that question, I was thinking primarily of Range Rover and the engine disasters they've had. Now they're using BMW V8's, which in my mind is very much; "Out of the frying pan ....... "
I have change my dpf filter and after that always my car idle at 1000-1100 rpm and says nox sensor. You think this is the problem or oxygen sensor
I don‘t know.
Me neither
It's super easy to make her reliable car,low power and CVT gearbox. With low power you have an engine that it's not stressed and with the CVT you have a car that will never be driven fast.
Maintenance and common sense variable driving styles have been successful for me. Some cars a just lemons though, sucks when you get one. Can't win all the time.
Cheaper cars are less complex. There are less things to fail. Whatever breaks, is cheaper. Cheaper cars depreasiate less. "Lemons" are the best economic choice. But not neccesarily nice to drive.
By ‘lemons’, I’m guessing they mean cars which often go wrong irrespective of make, size, price etc. I had a Focus which was a right lemon. It put me off Ford forever.
I HAVE HAD MY FORD 2009 MK 6 FIESTA NEARLY 15 YEARS AND ITS 83,000 MILES AND STILL AS GOOD AS NEW .
VERY FEW PROBLEMS A COUPLE OF BATTERIES AND TYRES AND THREE FRONT ROAD SPRINGS .
DUE TO SHITTY POT HOLES. NO BREAK DOWNS EVER ( TOUCH WOOD ). and still reluctant to get rid of it.
Mini is #3? How can that be? They have the opposite reputation.
Vw 1.9tdi pd , keep it maintained and it'll run forever
@@daveyboy7305 same engine in old audi A3, love mine, 120,000 and still reliable and running well, regular service and regular motorway blasts, best engine they made
Point 9 is what killed my 20 year old Celica in January, the engine would have gone on forever, sadly it rusted away
I can not believe how Teslas has increased in my rural area over the last year. I swear every 15th vehicle I pass on the Highway today is a Tesla. A year ago I couldn’t point to one if I was looking right at it.
I see no real reason for all the center dash electronics today. I do everything with my phone. I even have all my car gauges on my phone today. Not sure I need anything besides speedometer on the dash. Maybe fuel on dash too.
My last two cars have been diesel powered which I find to be very reliable when cruising on the motorway at 70mph with low rpm the engine is not struggling I like having lots of torque but the best thing is the mpg I also don’t have to pay road tax because of the low emissions
Just buy a 1997-2000 corolla compact pre facelift.
Reliable, fun, good and cheap parts.
Engine dies? Get a new one or just get a 5efe for a bit more power
I disagree with that suspension part. It turned out that a much simpler suspension design like macpherson is much more prone to fail in comparison to a more complex double wishbone suspension. Think of your example of the displacement. Easier work an now think of two persons doing the same job. Its less stress to the single component and more reliable in the long run.
That is an interesting angle, I appreciate your thoughts on that, it gives me something to investigate further.
When electric cars are regularly clocking up 200,000 miles and faulty batteries are serviceable, then come back and tell us that they are 'reliable'.
I do share your concerns and the frustration is that most of these stats and tables only look at 5 year old cars so don't tell the long term story. Based on these stats EV's seem reliable - they don't have the frequency of problems but I doubt the long term viability of these and will do a video to express these concerns in the near future as this is a topic that deserves exploration.
For me battery range and lifespan and availability and ease of charge are major factors that will affect the long term viability. I just don't think we have the infrastructure here in the UK especially considering how few can park outside their own home and run a cable to the car.
Spending 10-15k on a used EV and throwing it away after 5-10 years seems crazy to me. Perhaps the aftermarket in batteries will mature and make it cost effective.
Thanks for your reply. That would be a great follow up video! Keep up the great work - really informative and thoughtful video content 👍👍
@@torquecars "Spending 10-15k on a used EV and throwing it away after 5-10 years seems crazy to me. Perhaps the aftermarket in batteries will mature and make it cost effective." Well it hasn't with mobile phones.
Thanks for your vidéo. Reliablity for me is extremely important for me. I sold my 2001 Audi tt 225, although I loved, but saw that too many people had problèmes, mainly to do with electronics, and I did'nt want to spend time using a lap top trying to find the faults. I therefore got a 2004 Mazda MX5 nbfl 146, which I enjoy, but really miss the turbo character of the Audi with its torque
BEV is a scam.
Expensive, unreliable (check Consumer Reports annual reliability survey), high TCO (Total Cost of Ownership), dangerous, damaging the environment, impractical for long trips or trailing etc.
I agree w/Japanese vehicles Toyota & Honda Generally More Reliable… 🤔😎Would you do a video of Reliability for the high end Kia & Hyundai vehicles like Telluride, Palisade, Santa Fe? As well as Rolls Royce & Bentley SUV Reliability?
I Appreciate the Safety Features of Today, What is your outlook on them? (I’m a Fan of Manual crank windows, Door locks & Seats - Quite annoying & unnecessary to Wait for the multi seat adjust vs instant multi manual seat adjust❕😎😳 DEFINITELY More interested in Reliable, Dependable vs performance 😎😎🙃🙃😎😎Thank you for your content -Glad it made its way to my feed or whatever, on my UA-cam.
Are you then saying that the Lexus is 300h with its various electronic functions and complicated hybrid engine is and or will be a far more unreliable car?
Lexus always seem to sit at the top of the reliability tables, although I've heard some claims that the reliability has dropped off a little in the last few years. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on this.
Lexus is #1 in reliability in any serious statistics. The self-charging hybrids (most are from Toyota/Lexus) too. Plus Lexus is #3 in low TCO (Total Cost of Ownership) despite being an entry luxury brand.
That's all.
The good thing about electric cars is that they cause the price of petrol to fall.
German Liability vs Japanese Reliability, Honda every time, love mine because everything on em is made in Japan so super reliable
look after the car and it will generally work, you can't really find many German cars that die for no reason, the average person doesn't even change oil so obviously they wont last
Indeed I own a skoda octavia2018 now with 150k km 2 years now I care a lot to change oil on consumables in time or even before that
nearly ever production car will last if you look after it, people just don't
100% reliability here. A to B..
2009 Subaru Outback 3.0 H6 Rn. 110k miles and only needed a new battery at 100k. Sorry I ever sold it. 😥
Its dead simple, they are all reliable if you look after them and fix every tiny defect when it happens. People tell me my family fleet are unreliable cars - really?
I have on my drive two Tid Saabs, an Alfa Giulietta JTDM, an E39 540i and a 20 year old 206 Sport. Everything works on all five cars, they are serviced by me every year, repaired before a component gives up completely and checked over every month. Mileages range from 80k to 190k and I would drive any of them to the South of France tomorrow.
My reliable car is a Merc 2.7 cdi 5 cylinder CLK 2004 , and yes very well said ,look after it and repair with new parts , take to a 1st class garage , change oil every year with premium no1 oils , use desiel additive everything you fill up which keeps the system clean .
The battery life in cold temperatures have proven to be crap in these ev's.
the range is crap brand new
Thank you sir
So, you need a Japanese car, with a manual gearbox and a larger naturally aspirated engine. That will be a Mazda 3 or CX30 then.
The best car i have buy, and i had buy 7 new cars, i have 42 y/old and in 2009 i buy a clc 220 cdi just because i want at thw time a 3 doors diesel, and my God it has now 170k kilometres and never ever gave me problems, the last seevice was made in 2022 and i make maybe 2k km and he ask now a new service, not because of usage but because of the 2 y/old last service... after covid i buy a new class a 200d and my good problems problems.... i will sell it and start driving the clc... and before that the golf mk3 vr6 i made 280 k km wirhout problems but now it demands a big motor open service.. almost 4k € of repairs.... but it will be like new
40 million EVs? That must be worldwide as there are that many cars and light commercials in this country alone.
Everyone here commenting about japanese engine but forget that the car is not just the engine, i would still choose german because of a much nicer interior since i spend most of my time in my car... also diesel ofc, i do long distances so no problem with dpf or egr and all of the stuff that breaks to you guys because of city driving
jap engines are no better these days, its a complete myth
Ah, the constantly vulnerable transmission, such a marvelous invention, when working as it should.
Toyota seem to have it sorted, but yes there are quite a few CVT horror stories out there.
@@torquecarsCheck the ECVT, is a totally different and very reliable trans.
Had 2 suzuki swifts both very reliable also 1.9 dci grand vitara and 1.6 petrol vitara also very good but the 1.8vvti avensis was the best just.😅
The ones that wont break as much.
good video sir God bless
Thanks, you too!
Electric cars come with lots of high tech ‘toys’. The dash on some cars looks more like a high end computer than a car. These ‘toys’ cost a lot to repair/replace. I much prefer old technology that can often be sorted by a competent owner. Thankfully I’m old enough to see my 2007 BMW X3 ‘til the end of its, and my, life.
The trick to turbo engined vehicle's is buy new, sell within warrenty period, simple really.
I would never buy a car with direct injection. Carbon buildup leads to too manty problems.
That's pretty much all they do now for the sake of emissions thankfully though many are adding back in port injection as a secondary fuel system which really does help.
Well dont drive short distances with a diesel for example
Kia XCeed 1.0 excellent value comfort and reliability
Subaru at number 27? No chance. Most tables have Subaru in the top 5, along with Toyota
Honda Goldwing motorcycle in 1982 starter clutch failed at 12k miles after 18 months
Honda Accord in 2006 Engine developed severe rattle and hesitated when accelerating 1 year old
Honda Outboard motor 75HP in 2008 misfire and poor starting issues. 2 years old.
My experience of Honda products over the years may have been unlucky but have not bought Honda since as didn't want to risk another.
Toyota and Lexus comes with a 10 year, 100k mile warranty.
And 15 year, 150k miles on hybrid battery.
@@ln5747 yes exactly!
Toyota & Lexus: #2 & #1 in reliability plus #1 & #3 in low TCO.
Why are people talking about German brands when the best (reliable and low TCO) cars are Japanese?!?
Beside Toyota/Lexus, in some segments Mazda, Suzuki, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Honda are also excellent. Even Nissan is improving after their Jatco CVT old disaster...
VOLVO V70 D5 automatic....385.000 kms. Just do the servicing. VOLVO no longer sells diesels
IMO, Japanese engines are less innovative than say German engines.
Or, maybe put a different way, less complex as they're not trying to make an engine that is the most powerful, best MPG, lowest emissions, lightest and other things.
Most Honda Civics come with a small choice of 4 cylinder economy based engines (excluding the Type R)
A 1 Series has 3, 4 and 6 cylinder engines ranging from small power eco driven right up to a B58.
That B58 is the current BMW 6 pot of choice and is the result of lessons learned on the N54 and N55.
Its also in a Toyota ya know 😉
Compare 90s and 00s German high performance engines Vs American ones.
The E39 S62 was 400hp from a 4.9 and E60 S85 was 500hp from 5.0
The US cars needed 7+ liters or superchargers to get those figures.
But they also didn't spin rod bearings and break vanos and actuators etc in the process. AND the power was at 3k not 8k rpm.
The Japs are innovative.. They had variable valve timing in lots, of cars before the Euro brands... Mitsubishi = Mivec, Toyota =VVTI, Honda= Vtec, Nissan = Neo VVL..
Toyota also seems to have the most success with hybrid.. Mazda have this, Sky Active X which is very interesting and also used Rotary when no other brand would risk it.. The, Japs are far more innovative than the Germans.. Far more...
All very good until you started talking crap about how reliable electric cars .
I suspect that when the bulk of EV's hit the 10-15 year mark things will be drastically worse as the batteries start failing and effectively writing off the car.
I'm planning a deep dive into EV's as this is a hot debate at the moment. I will try to stay objective though but I'm always interested to hear your thoughts and opinions on them.
I purely based that statement I made from the reliability stats I was able to review (What Car etc..) with Tesla sitting at 10th most reliable. Chinese Ev's didn;t make it into the survey based on up to 5 year old cars.
@@torquecars, check the Consumer Reports annual reliability survey, they point at BEV and PHEV as very unreliable; meanwhile the self-charging hybrids are the most reliable (the ECVT helps too).
I’m keeping my fingers crossed for our new Rogue with Nissan’s new 3 cylinder. I did make sure that the dealer offered a lifetime power train warranty
I've got an old Nissan Sunny, built in 2001 in South Africa (called the Sentra here). It's port injected 1.4 litre, no cat, no egr, no abs and no airbags. It's been super reliable for the last 23 years. I don't think that Rogue will ever last that long. Since Renault got involved with Nissan, their cars have become garbage 😢
@@BubblesTheCat1, True, the time when Renault was dictating was bad for Nissan, but now they are improving.
@codincoman9019 We'll have to wait and see, but mostly, all new cars seem to be built cheaply, although they cost way more. Even Toyota. Guess I'll be looking for an older Corolla if I have to replace the Nissan Sentra. I keep a firm hand on it, so I hope it can last many more years. 😀🇿🇦🙋🏼♂️
@@BubblesTheCat1 True, time will tell better than us.
I own one of the mist reliable vehicle ever made my 1997 Toyota Hilux with the 22R engine and five years ago l paid aud $1500 with 410000 kilometres and l still have my 1997 Toyota Hilux very simple and basic vehicle extremely low tech and still has its original carburator yes it has a carburator and no cat converter and is today worth aud $5000 to $6000 the Hilux iis also manual and has original manual windows l laugh at your Audi were the rear power windows have failed because my Hilux hasn't got rear windows infact its a single cab ute with an aluminium tray and the list of reliable cars and Lexus number one and Toyota number two buy a Toyota ldid and to be honest l didn't know how reliable Toyota's ate until l started watching you tube and researching Google especially my 1997 Toyota Hilux ute but a lot of Australians buy Toyota's because Toyota's are number one selling car brand for the past 25 years and the only other brand that may knock them off number one spot is Mazda as been the number one seller that is Toyota for the past 25 years there are a lot of Toyota's on the road and that is so true and there are many Toyota's over 25 30 and 40 years still driving around and don't forget there are many Toyota's and Lexuses that have done over 1000000 miles still with there original engine just look on you tube now thats reliability plus so its a no brainer buy a Toyota or Lexus if you want a reliable vehicle most Australians aren't wrong you mentioned a couple of things concerning the drive train my Hilux is obviously rear wheel drive but with age comes with parts wearing out l have changed the three universal joints last year to the cost of aud $250 and a complete new exhaust system which wasn't original to a big cost but all the repairs l have most of them l have done myself with the original purchase price and the cost oc repairs the cost is still under aud $5000 and that is another thing about owning a Toyota in Australia any older Toyota they will deprecate but after a whike Toyota's start appreciating as my Hilux has because of there rick solid reputation for reliability and you people in the UK with your European and British brands which aren't that reliable were in Australia we buy Toyota's Lexuses Mazdas Hondas and Suzuki's mostly and there is the odd European and British car around and the younger drivers aren't into British classic cars they are into classic Australian and Japanese cars because they are reliable and l haven't even touched on tbe Australian built cars and the last thing is rust were in Australia the weather is much kinder to motor vehicles very little snow l only seen snow once in my life as for rust my Hilux only has surface rust and tbe cab has no rust as for EVs well 49% of present EV owners will never buy another EV and EVs aren't that reliable less reliable than petrol cars and my Hilux has never failed in 5 years of ownership and the other day l saw my first EV break down and l was in my Hilux it was a GWM ORA typical Chinese crap
I am seeing the prices of these "simple" older cars shooting up at the moment.
@@torquecars ln Australia the prices for older Toyotas are doubling were a year ago 1998 to 2001 Toyota Camerys were under a year were selling for aud $2000 to $3000 are now selling for aud $5000 to $6000 and there areplenty of them around in Australia it's called the Toyota tax were a similar sort of vehicle the Toyota sells for more because of there rock solid reputation for reliability and they were also built in Australia
@@torquecars Ltd happening in Australia especially with Toyota's in Australia they do deprecate but after a couple of years the actually start appreciating like my 1997 Toyota Hilux
Honda and Toyota NA petrol engines and you will have the most troublefree and cheap to maintain cars.
Old banger no frills, simple as 1.6 petrol berlingo running like new at 100k minimal rust at 17 yrs
honda civic
What would you say is more reliable out of :
VW Golf 1.5 ETSI vs 2.0 L Audi A4 40 TFSI vs BMW 320i (B48 engine)
All around 2023 plate
I would say run away, do not walk. WAG diesel engines are far more reliable then their turbo petrol engines
@@zlatkosokolovic5715 Hi thanks for that. However, I only drive 7000 miles a year and do lots of short trips, will a diesel be justified?
@@jaisingh-do2sw Me too, not even 7000, just drive little bit further away from time to time
Don't get diesel, dpfs, egrs and adblue will drain your wallet in a blink of an eye
A diesel for 7000 miles annually, seems insane to me, unless you've found some elderly non-turbo model.. it'll be great to begin with but that's not really enough miles to keep one running well, unless you only use it for long runs a couple of times a week.
Not sure I'd trust a 1.5 in a golf as far as long-term reliability is concerned (but new cars are appliances made to a price anyway), the later BMW petrol engines are supposed to be alright for reliability, I'm not sure about the Audi.
1.9TDI VW Great Diesel engine Peugeot 1.9 diesel engine is great to. Volvo engines great to.
Buy a inline6 bmw 540d..a d you dont need nothing more..
Power
Reliability
Confort
Safety
But rubbish in snow❄️
Acura all the way
just reliability please