Delta Shower Valve RP19804 Leaks after Cartridge Replacement / Cut Bonnet Nut
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2021
- Correction: At 2:18 I mentioned using baking power. It should be baking soda as shown in the video.
It was discouraging to see the valve still leaks after I replaced the cartridge. Finally fixed it with this easy trick. This type of leak may happen with other brands of shower valves also. I have details of cutting the bonnet nut so I can get the cartridge out without damaging the base assembly of the valve.
You just helped me save $800 and more! My plumber replaced the cartridge but the water was still leaking and they suggested to replace the whole set from top to bottom by cutting the drywall in the back. I did a bunch of searches to see what can be done and your video showed up. Followed your instructions and within 5 minutes the issue was resolved! Thank you for the amazing tip!!
Thanks for your feedback. I am happy for you! I am not a plumber and I don't even have the tools to work on the water pipes. My friend told me to try this method and it worked for me. Glad it worked for you too!😀
YES!! & THANK YOU! I used only vinegar & that worked for me. I spent 20 minutes cleaning my copper that looked like it didn’t need any cleaning. I had a terrible leak. I tried fixing it by replacing springs, then by replacing the replacing the cartridge. I was about to give into the plumber and have my pipes replaced. Luckily found your video. Geez! What a relief. & what a jerk plumber for telling me I needed new pipes. Thank you again!
Thanks so much for giving the feedback! This will encourage others to try also. I am so happy for you in fixing the leak. There were debates related to the the need to use baking soda and your experiment showed it is not necessary. Thanks again!
Thanks much for posting this; finally got my Delta cartridge successfully installed and no drips. Here's the steps I took: 1) Instead of cutting the bonnet nut, I cut a small notch in the front edge of the nut. I then put a screwdriver in the notch and hit it with a hammer. This got the nut free. My wife held the 'barrel' of the assembly with a set of channel locks to help stabilize the valve assembly. There's other youtube videos showing this technique. 2) Instead of vinegar, I used the cleaner CLR, which is intended to dissolve calcium and lime deposits. I sprayed the inside of the valve assembly and used an old toothbrush to brush the cleaner around. I did this 3 times, allowing 5 minutes or so for the cleaner to soak. After each cleaning I rinsed it all out - a lot of brown gunk came out. Good luck ya'll.
It is very nice of you to provide the detailed steps you took to repair the valve. It is a very good tips to use the tooth brush to clean the inside wall of the cylinder. I know many people will find your input very useful. Cheers!
Like so many others, I'd like to thank you for your helpful video. Initially I was having a problem removing the bonnet nut and decided to call a plumber before I damaged anything. Nice young man did manage to remove the bonnet nut and put in the new cartridge. But while he was there I noticed that even after installation of the new (Delta RP190804) cartridge there was still a leak. The plumber didn't even look at the condition of the valve and just said that the valve likely needs to be replaced. I decided to do a bit more research before I took that step and found your video about the use of baking soda and vinegar. Worked perfectly and, as was the case with so many others, saved lots of money. I'm just so surprised that with the literally hundreds of videos covering this topic yours is the only one I've found with this excellent suggestion.
Really appreciate your feedback and very happy to see another success story. This motivated me to share more DIY experience on my channel. Cheers!🙂
Thanks so much for this video. I also could not remove the bonnet. this is what so many other videos left out. these are the type of videos needed for the very very amateur DIYer.😁
Thanks for the feedback. It was a challenge for me to remove that bonnet. Glad this video helps others having the same problem. Cheers!
This is by far the most useful of all the videos on youtube. I was still having leaks until you showed how to clean it out in step 2. That fixed it and thank you
Thanks for trying that and giving me such a good news. I am not an expert in repairing this kind of stuffs. I never expect a tidy white film of deposit inside the valve could have given me such an headache. That's why I decided to make this video so I could help others! Cheers!
@@DIYUSA I was wondering the same thing but thanks to your video, its not leaking anymore
Great video! I still had leaks after replacing the cartridge, your video helped me stop the leaks completely. I used your mix first and it got some off, then i hit it with some CLR too. Thank you!
Thank you for your feedback and your suggestion to use CLR. I am not aware of CLR until a few weeks ago, another viewer told me about this product. Glad it works for you!
Such a great and informative video. I've had the same problem. I changed both shower head and cartridge but unfortunately I had still leaking shower head. I decided to investigate and solve it DIY. I cleaned the valve with vinegar and small screwdriver. But becareful to not scratch the valve. Then I use DANCO Silicone Faucet Grease and I lubricate the cartridge and also inside the valve. The problem has been addressed. NO leak anymore even one drop. I saved at least $2000. Thank you for your video.
Really appreciate your feedback and also hear the success story! Using the grease is the right thing to do, I am just too cheap and don't want to spend the extra few dollars.😀
You saved me! Yes, when I put in the new cartridge it was still leaking (not as bad as the old one). I thought I had a defective cartridge until I ran across a few videos like yours talking about mineral buildup. For me I could not visually see any buildup but I still used your baking soda and vinegar mixture and just kept on rubbing it in over and over. As someone else in the comments mention I then sprayed it with CLR as well. Cleaned it up with water afterwards and to my surprise no leaks at all! I really didn't think it would work for me because I visually couldn't see any buildup of lime or minerals. Thank you!
Thanks for the update! I am really glad it works for you too. I was frustrated with that leakage problem too!, Therefore I created this video. Cheers!
You are absolutely right. It’s not as easy as most videos show. I break the cartridge piece by piece but finally came out. I used even WD-40 to loosen it. Finally I replaced the new one and no more leaks. Plumbers charge from 150 to 500 for this job.
A viewer suggested to use a plumber's strap wrench, which is the right tool to remove the nut. Since I seldom work on plumbing and I don't have that tool. Cutting the bonnet nut would be more cost effective. Agree, I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars if I can get it done in an hour.
Great video! I replaced my valve catridge, but didn't clean the mineral deposits. I used your method as shown. My shower head is no longer dripping water! Thanks and just subscribed.
I appreciate your feedback and also subscribed. Glad to know it works for you!😀
Great video. Ive been watching yiur boat buids for years, qnd knew it was your channel when I heard your voice. Thank you Huong.
Thanks for watching & your support. I am glad this video has helped many people.
Thank you for the helpful video! Very much appreciated!
For the threaded ring which you cut with the dremel tool, use a plumber's strap wrench to remove that threaded ring. The Channellocks/adjustable pliers only apply pressure at two points. The threaded ring must have evenly applied pressure 360° around the threaded ring, and the strap wrench provides the required evenly applied pressure. Strap wrenches removes those threaded rings very easily.
Thank you again!
Thanks for watching and also share how to use the plumber's strap wrench. Glad to know it will work much better for this task. I am not a plumber and I don't have a plumber's strap wrench. I am not willing to invest in another tool that I may use it once in ten years. Really appreciate your feedback. Cheers!
Thank you! We had the same problem. We used vinegar and baking soda as you recommended. The leak it gone . Thank you
Thanks for taking time to give me the feedback. It is wonderful to hear others have fixed the same problem I have! Have a great day!
Thank you! the second part with the cleaning is what i needed!
Thanks for providing the feedback. Glad it was helpful!
Well done! All steps and important details explained. Thanks 😊
Thanks for your feedback and support. Hope this will work for you if you come across a similar problem! Cheers!
Great video! I used this method due to a drip in my faucet and it worked. The drip is gone.
I am so happy for you. It was really frustrating for me and I am glad it works for you! Thanks for your feedback!
Thanks for your video. My case is the exactly the same. Every time after I replaced the cartridge, it would be leak-proof for about half year, then it started to leak again! This time, I saw your video and I did a cleaning as your suggested before I replaced my cartridge again. It seems working! In the past, I didn't use a flashlight to check to see if any limescale or white stuff inside. But when I checked this time, I was shocked of the inner condition and that must be the reason why the washer of the cartridge doesn't seal very well.
Two notes for my repair: 1. I used some white vinegar (ordered from grocery store with 5% acidity) with salt to make the cleaning solution. I saw some people using ratio of 1:1 as the vinegar and salt to clean the copper pipe which I found online, but I used 2:1 vinegar instead. No extra water is added. 2. I used paper towel and cotton ball to apply this solution to all the inner surface, so I think the solution can stay at the surface for a little bit longer time. I let them soak for about 15-20mins, then remove and check with flashlight. Then if any residual left, soak again. I did three times until I the inner surface was smoothly to touch by my fingers.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your input regarding using vinegar only. There was a debate related to the need to use both vinegar and baking soda, as showed in my video. Glad there are success stories using vinegar alone. Your detailed steps hopefully will help others also! Cheers!
Having the same problem after replacing cartridge! Hopefully this works for me as well. Thank you for the video.
Many people have fixed the problem with this technique. Hope you will too. I appreciate if you would post the result. Happy New Year!
thanks for making this video, I am going to try this out and hope it finally solves the problem
Thanks for watching. I hope this will solve the problem. Cheers!
Thanks for the informative video! 👍🏼
Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully it will work for you too.
Worked like a champ! Thank you!
Thanks for you feedback. I am really happy that it works for you too! Cheers!
Thank you for this video! I think I need to do this too. I had a bad leaking diverted spout so I replaced the handle cartridge 19804. The top/front half of the old cartridge came off because the rest of it was stuck in the valve house due to mineral deposits as you showed. I also believe this was the cause of the original leak. Now the leak is coming from the base of the diverter by the shower wall. I was worried I might have damaged something since I had to use some force removing the stuck half of the old cartridge. I used wd40, drilled a hole for weed trimmer line after one of the inner nozzles broke off. Then I saw the inner metal grooves which were perfect to feed the trimmer line into and looped around and back out. I gave myself enough line to tie knots at my end and put on some leather work gloves. I sat in tub and kept pulling, trying not to yank too hard. Eventually it came out. I tried to clean the deposits with steel wool pot and pan scrubber. I don’t think it worked.
Update: The next day I noticed water spots on the ceiling downstairs under this bathtub. 🤦🏻♂️ I turned off the water main to whole house and called a plumber. He said it looks like I twisted the valve housing, damaging the 3 copper tubes in the back, causing the leak. I had noticed it trickling from the wall under the diverter in the morning when I checked it. But I just hoped it wasn’t going behind the wall. It was. I thought maybe it was the mineral deposits and I could remove those and that would fix the leak. I gave up and called the plumber. I do recall at one point twisting the cartridge when trying to remove it before the top half came off. Beware. Don’t twist. I say if it doesn’t come out easily, call a plumber. I hate these delta cartridges. Really poor design.
Thanks for watching and your comments. The first time I saw the thin white film. It looked harmless and I didn't bother removing it. But the valve still leaked, at the same rate, 1 drop per second. Glad the 2nd time fixed the problem. I didn't want to use anything to scrub it (screw driver, fine sand paper, etc.) because if I damaged the valve, I would have an nasty unplanned remodeling work, which means I have to cut a big hole on the fiber glass bath in order to replace the whole valve...
Thanks for sharing this experience. I ran into the same issue where the bottom half of the cartridge didn't come out. In my case , I backed out of the project because at that point I realized I got the wrong cartridge. Now I have the right cartridge and am wondering how much trouble removing it is going to cause. Now I'm nervous. But thanks, you're the only person I've seen bring this up.
@@vikramgupta2326 Sorry for the slow reply, I didn't see your comment until today. Initially, I was very hesitate to do this because if things go wrong, such as if I damage the base of the valve, or the piping, I have to open up the wall at the back of the bathroom to replace the whole unit. It turned out it was not difficult to cut open the nut. Once its cut open, it is easy to remove the cartridge. To push the cartridge back to the base unit (after you have cleaned the internal of the valve), an easy way to do that is to screw the new nut onto the base, and it will gradually push the cartridge in place. I recall I placed the plumber's nylon tape on the thread/nut before I screw in the nut. The whole process, from cutting the nut, clean the internal of the valve and put the valve back in took me 1 hr 15 min. Good luck.
@@DIYUSA No worries, thank you.
Handyman here, i was prepared for worst case scenario from the start. I went ahead a set apart "day" to replace delta monitor tub washer, and after 20 years of hard water, it gave me all i could ask for. Mineral deposits created a weld type hold, i was soaked in sweat after i finally took out old valve, which i thought i could just simply replace the seats and springs. NO WAY, prepare for long day. I used dremel tool and soft wire rotary brush to get the deposits as clean and possible, it worked . I did not use this method, but for sure i will on my other shower valve.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Based on the feedback from a number of viewers, this method seemed to work. Hope I don't have to fix this problem for another 15 years 🙂
Used CLR lime remover with a stiff plastic brush to clean 1st then wrapped all of the o-rings with one layer of plumber's Teflon tape. I put teflon tape on the threads every time I have replaced the cartridge and have not had an issue with the bonnet nut getting stuck. Worked great!
I appreciate your excellent input. I didn't know there is CLR lime remover. Thanks for letting me know. I do use Teflon tape but that was the first and only time I removed that bonnet (in more than 20 years). Apparently, the home builder didn't do that. Cheers!
Would you (or anyone) recommend using plumber's grease instead of plumber's tape on the o-rings (the blue part of the cartridge)? I installed a new cartridge and a quick water test, there were no drips from the head. Now after a few days of use, the showerhead drips slowly a few times a minute. I did not think to clean the casing as instructed in the video but felt when I do, I'd also use plumber's grease on the o-rings if the community recommends it.
@@jasonkyleadams7577 I am not an expert in this area. I used tape because I have that on hand. Hope others will give you a better recommendation.
Very useful video, Thanks. One suggestion, you mentioned baking powder, picture shows baking soda. 😀
I appreciate your feedback. You are 100% correct. You are the 2nd person noticed my mistake. It should be baking soda. I have added updated comment in my video comment to notify viewers about this mistake. Hope people will focus on what I have shown in the video instead of listening to my narration. Cheers!
Fantastic. I will give it a try. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for letting me know. I hope it will work for you too! 🙂
Going to try this. Good idea!
Thanks for watching, Please let me know if that works for your too! Cheers!
the baking soda and vinegar saved my ass... thx, bro!
Thanks for the feedback. I am very happy to hear another success story! Cheers!
Very well done,👍
Thanks for watching and your support!
Great video!!!!!
Thanks for the visit. Hope you find that useful... cheers!
At exactly 25 seconds into this video you show the cartridge setting perfectly into the housing. The triangular piece of the hardware sets in there nicely. No matter what I do, I cannot get mine to seat all the way. I also have a small leak. Perhaps the white buildup is blocking it from seating nicely. I will try your method. Thanks.
Thanks for your question.... yes, I came across the same issue. It was difficult to push the cartridge all the way into the housing completely. There is one trick that works for me is to screw the new bonnet nut slowly into the housing, it will push the valve all the way in. Hope this will work for you too!
I just had my home repipe but still kept old valve (shower) Porter Single-Handle 3-Spray Shower Faucet in Brushed Nickel for 6-2017, over 3 years. The product came with universal valve.
I should have the plumbing company replace 2 of my bathroom showers with new valves but I thought I kept them since they nice. They also had to break some tiles around the shower valve area and covered it with bigger plate.
They are working fine so far. Any concern I should have for the next few years? Hopefully they last 20+ years plus with no leak issue. How hard is it to fix if there is any leak? Thanks
Thanks for watching my video, and also your question. I am not an expert in this area. My house is 23 years old now. This is the first time I have to replace this valve. Therefore the valve seemed to be very reliable. Actually, the initial leakage may be caused by the mineral deposit within the valve and not due to the failure of the cartridge (because I replaced the cartridge and I still have the same leakage issue). I didn't scratch any inner surface of the valve during the repair/cartridge replacement and I expect this repair should last for a long time ( more than 5 years - I hope, and I should have moved by then :-). If I were in your situation, I would keep using it till it breaks because replacing the whole valve will cost more time and money (remove tiles in your case). In my case, I have to cut the fiberglass shower stall to get to the whole valve, which is a big remodeling task. It turned out it is not difficult to replace the cartridge and also clean the inner guts of the valve. I believe what I have shown in the video is the worst case, which I have to cut the nut. If you have all the tools, it would just be an hour of work. If your goal is to replace the cartridge only, you shouldn't need to remove any tiles. There are UA-cam videos that show you how to do that. There are a few brands and you have to get the correct replacement parts. Good luck!
I replaced the insert and still had a leak. After I saw this video, I saw I had the smallest of buld up. VERY minimal but seems that was the problem. No more leak. Wow
Thanks for taking time to give me the feedback. I am glad you are able to fix the leak. I share your frustration and that's why I created this video. Your feedback is an excellent encouragement for me to share more videos on what I have learned.🙂 Cheers!
Your spring based rubber seals are missing from the cold and hot water lines. You can get them from Home Depot or Lowes. They showed them in another video. Easy to install with a screw driver to push into place and seal from water leaks.
Thanks for bringing this up. You may be looking at different model. There are many versions from Delta. I double checked the assembly drawing directly from Delta. The link is here. media.deltafaucet.com/MandI/34459RevA.pdf It showed the 'seat & spring' is inside the RP19804 cartridge (in the middle part of the cartridge). The 'lower housing' as shown in the drawing, is the part that mated to the base of the valve. I do not need to open the cartridge to get to the spring based rubber seals with this kind of cartridge. If those parts were missing, I wouldn't be able to have a functional shower valve. Cheers!
Thank you and I will let you know if this works. Can CLR be used instead of Baking soda and Vinegar?
Thanks for your question. Unfortunately, I have not tried CLR. However, there are viewers provided me feedback they have used CLR and fixed the problem. Hope this will work for you too!
Thank you for the information
I hope this will help you if you come across a similar problem. Cheers!
@@DIYUSA I could not find the cartridge I needed, glacier bay. So I will change the whole diverter with a Moen . Should I keep the plastic shield flush with the tile?
@@jackfarrell4727 I don't know the details of your setup hence I can't give you a good recommendation. Sorry.
If I already put the plumber grease
inside the valve before putting the new cartridge. Shoould I clear the grease before using your method? If yes, how to clean it? Thanks.
I have never tried to use plumber grease to fix the water leak problem. Since you have already applied the grease, I suggest you to install the cartridge and see if it still leaks. If it does, then you may want to remove the grease and clean the inner surface of the valve. I don't know the best way to remove the grease since I have never done that before. You may search internet for a solution. Wish you luck in fixing the problem.
Thank you
Thanks for watching and your feedback.
Thank you!
You're welcome! Hope you find this video useful. Thanks for watching.
Vinegar is acidic, which is useful in dissolving the mineral deposits that you're trying to remove from the valve body. But then you're adding baking soda to it, which is alkaline. The foaming reaction that you see is the baking soda neutralizing the acid in the vinegar. This makes no sense! Just use the vinegar.
Yes, you are 100% correct in terms of the chemical reaction. Thanks for your question. I googled for an answer: "When you are cleaning using baking soda or vinegar, you are actually doing very complicated manipulations of molecules," said May Nyman, a professor in the department of chemistry at Oregon State University. As a base, baking soda dissolves organic compounds like dirt, grease and other sticky ickies. In addition, the mineral structure of each baking soda particle provides a gentle abrasive to clean without leaving scratches behind. As an acid, vinegar breaks down minerals that form from hard tap water, forming unsightly stains on sinks, tubs and counters. Combining these two common household substances can produce incredible results in the kitchen, but it's important to not combine them in equal amounts because you need to keep the mixture in either the acidic or basic side of the neutral value. When baking soda is mixed with vinegar, the acid breaks down baking soda, releasing carbon dioxide gas that can help lift dirt from the surfaces being cleaned.
Excerpt from this link www.livescience.com/why-baking-soda-vinegar-clean.html
@@DIYUSA yes, but in this application we are not trying to remove dirt and grime, only mineral deposits. The baking soda adds nothing to the process, and could potentially make the mixture ineffective in removing the mineral deposits if too much baking soda is used.
@@byronmill I agree, I believe using Vinegar alone will work.. similar to use coca cola to clean the toilet. I cannot tell if adding baking soda will be better. This is the traditional way and would be interesting to see if there is a UA-cam video comparing two approaches: with and without baking soda.
@@DIYUSA Why look for a video when it's not necessary. As Byron pointed out, there is no need to remove dirt, grease, grime, etc. Only mineral deposits would form.
@@Future_Legend_Told_Me Totally agree! Another viewer used just vinegar and it worked.
Thank you going to try having dame problem. Have hard water
Hope this video helps. When I first looked into the valve, I saw only a very small white coating/deposit and never expect that was the issue. Glad I was able to resolve that. It was very frustrating. Cheers!
Thank you! 🙂
You’re welcome 😊 Hope my video helps.
it does! And one can see you CARE-; That's (Lord's) Gold sir so don't quit &,... Thank you again‼️🙂 @@DIYUSA
@@billybull1139 I am so happy to hear a success story. This is an excellent encouragement for me to keep sharing. Thanks for the quick feedback. Have a blessed day!
Thank you (again &-) You too, -Always‼️
I usually apply the baking soda first then add the vinegar. This chemical reaction can clean almost anything!
I appreciate your input. It is good to know. I will try this approach in the future. Thanks again.
Great vid--it's baking soda BTW. You show baking soda box but say baking powder--different stuff.
Thank you very much for your feedback, and also catching my mistake. I hope most people will just watch what I used instead of what I said. I have added such correction at the 'description' of my video. Thanks again!
Very Good!... 36
Thanks for your feedback. Hope this works for you! Cheers!