Blackie this is why you are last word on B. P. Revolvers, someday you will have to produce the definitive guide book on these. Never in 50 plus years have I heard this explained in a more clear concise yet easy to understand manner,
I used my Dremmel tool with a diamond wheel to cut my grooves in the nipple very lightly, and cleaned the fouling on the hammer and hammer stop also cleaned up the sharp edges on the hammer... boy what a difference it made,. I just shot it today and no more cap jams. 'each cap busted apart and fell off when the cylinder rotated, I also replaced my weak main spring with a new one . thanks Blackie... this is best 1860 army tutorial of them all. it is fun shooting again with a gun that functions well.
My colt .31 had horrible cap jams. Then i did the filing smooth of the cap groove on the hammer. I went to the range today, shot 80 rounds and not one jam. Its like a totally different pistol. Thanks so much Blackie. You made shooting fun again.
Hands down the best explanation of the interaction of the cone, hammer and cap I've heard. It's amazing all the little details that went into the design of these parts. Also interesting how the new, "improved" caps change the equation. Subscribed!
I'm late to the party but I gotta tell ya, I've been looking for a simple, down to earth explanation of how to stop cap jams. You explained it all simply yet in detail. Thank you, from Texas!
I have been shooting and building muzzleloaders since 1980 but have no experience with revolvers. I have been watching a lot of videos to learn about them. You have by far the best and clearest explainations of how they really work and how to take care of them.
Blackie, thank you for a very informative video. I learned 30 years of BP revolver experience in 15 minutes. I am really enjoying your entire BP revolver series.
I have been shooting black powder revolvers for over 50 years and discovered the issues you have given us in this very good informational video. What I did to all of my Colt revolvers was to have a really good welder close the face and cover up those silly slots. No more jams of any kind in any of my replica revolvers. My two real 1851 Navy and Army I have obviously left alone. THank you for such a great video Sir.
Want to know how to end cap jam? If you've ever watched cowboy movies from the 1930's, you've probably noticed that after every shot, they would point the gun up while cocking it to shoot again. They did this because they were trained by retired, real, cowboys who had shot cap and ball guns back in the day. Pointing the gun strait up while cocking allows the spent cap to fall out and not jam the gun. I had many, many jams when I first got in to black powder. Then, I read an article on the subject and it was a game changer! I've never jammed since I learned this technique.
Joining the crowd in saying that this channel is an awesome resource. Not just good information, but presented with amazing thought and talent. Thanks!
Great info and thanks for sharing your wisdom! In my mind's eye, I can picture a group of cavalrymen sitting around a campfire figuring this stuff out. What's old is new again.
Just the sound from this video made me understand that I'd lightened my Pietta Colt 1851 Navy's mainspring a little too much: my clicks are (were) MUCH softer than those. 07:14 confirmed it: I'm getting a ton of cap jams because I wanted my Colt to feel just like those in the movies I grew up with. What a dummy I've been. :) Now I tightened it back up, tuned the trigger spring as to not have timing issues, and the next time I'll hit the range I'll probably thank mr. Blackie once again.
Blackie is very good about sharing details of what works for him. This is no different. Great ideas I plan to implement on my own cap and ball revolvers
You do a great job of explaining. There is a lot more going on than just busting a cap. This is one of the most irritating things to me about cap and ball revolvers. Thanks a lot!
Excellent discussion. There are a couple of BP shooters online who have addressed the cap jamming issue by filling the hammer nose with JB Weld. While this approach does actually help reduce cap jams, I personally wasn't ever in favor of it because it was obviously defeating a design element. There is another shooter who installed an upright pin in the frame that slid into the hammer notch, and upon cocking the hammer it scraped any stuck caps free of the notch. This approach works very well indeed, and preserves the between chamber safety, but requires a skilled machinist to do the job and its obviously going to cost. Again, not the best solution to my thinking. You have explained the issue excellently and given a practical and effective answer that anyone can do. Your approach needs to be spread far and wide to all Colt BP shooters.
One of the absolutely best videos on this subject. Thank you for your in depth, very easy to understand explanation and fix for this issue. Great job, Bud. Just read down a few other comments. Seems a whole lot of others are in agreement with what I said - or I'm in agreement with others, however you want to look at it. Blackie did a fantastic job of explaining this problem and how to fix it that anybody could do very easily. Thank You Blackie
Sure as hell after your tutorial I went and checked two of my revolvers and both hammers are in need of some dressing up. Thanks for your guidance. You put on a good show.
Blackie, I really enjoy your practical advice on these revolvers. I can apply most of your tips to my Rogers & Spencer .44 pistol. It's refreshing to watch your clear demonstrations of the finer points of making a good pistol even better. There's plenty of videos on UA-cam of people shooting their pistols right out of the box. Very few teach us how to make our time on the range and in the field more productive. Tighter groups = more fun! Thanks again!
Good article on cap jams. I am a lover of these revolvers and I had to learn myself all your issues to prevent jams - good job! Paul Moore/Gatling gun builder
This man and I like you. As common sense . and knows my experience what he's dealing with. Myself I've been shooting these things since the 60s . but you have good information and I listen 😀
Blackie, I'm approaching 70 years of age, but this is the first video I've found that explained cap jamming and how to deal with it... and made the explanation clear. Great job, sir! Next stop for me: taking the files to my 1851 and 1860s. Thank you! -- Old Matt PS: I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos.
Very good Cap and ball revolver tip.Some guys fill the face of hammer with J& B weld as per Mr.Belliveaus recommendation.My Ruger Old Army dumps it caps in the action too but that would be a whole new lesson.Thanx for your well earned advice.
I second the suggestions of writing a book. Not everyone has the interwebs, and who knows when/if technology fails, books will rule the knowledge database. Excellent info in this video!
Wow, glad I found you. Ordered a Pietta 1860 army Colt 44 snub nose in Aug. They called me yesterday and are shipping it out next week. My first cap and ball. Will try it out of the box to see how it functions but now have the knowledge to tweak it as necessary. I have watched some of the c + b vids out there and to a man they all seem like great guys with a passion and desire to help us newbies. Have subscribed to your channel . Thanks Blackie, yours is one of the best !
Thank you for the info very very helpful, I'm getting a 1860 army like you have and now got top info on the cap problems I get occasionally with my 1851 navy
Good info. I just got a Taylor U. 1862 colt police 5 shot 36cal. every time I fire it the cap blows off and is stock just above the back of the hole for the cylinder pin. I have to get a small stick to scrape it out. The hammer is about 1/8rh" back after firing. Lots of BP residue there. 15 shots out so far
Thank you for all the great informative videos of cap and ball revolvers. Of all the people on UA-cam concerning this subject you are hands above them all. I would love to meet you and talk sometime but I don't live in your neck of the woods, I live in the great state of Maine.
Subscribed, all your black powder videos are so well documented and easy to understand. I really appreciate all your time and knowledge you share in your videos. You're my go to BP revolver teacher! Take care.
All good advice..... I have advised against lightening the springs on all percussion revolvers, or enlarging nipple holes. Doing the latter will even cap-jam an Remington. Like Blackie I had to find out this stuff by myself back in pre-internet days. This guy knows his stuff.... althouhh I have to say that BP pressures are usually under 15,000lbs....
Black. You really need to write a book on C&B. I just found your videos. I just got into C&B last year and I love it. Great Videos. My sault and thanks from NY.
Superb presentation and explanation of Colt's C&B revolver design, and why cap jams occur, especially in modern replicas. In order to meet a price point, modern replicas are very poorly fitted and finished compared to original Colt and Remington revolvers, and stock nipples usually have flash holes that are way too large. The good news is that Uberti and Pietta replicas have good basic quality, so that with a bit of home gunsmithing, the replicas can duplicate original quality fit and finish IF the owner/shooter is willing to do the relatively minor work needed. I've discovered that with a bit of home gunsmithing, the replica Colt and Remington revolvers are amazingly reliable and trouble-free, more so than many of my auto pistols in fact! I'm particularly impressed with Uberti barrel quality. My Uberti C&B revolvers, after tuning and slicking up, are impressive with such extreme reliability. But most impressive are the astoundingly tight groups these C&B revolvers can shoot, especially with conical bullets! For me, from a rest, precise 100 yard hits on man-sized targets are no problem at all with these "primitive" revolvers. These C&B revolver replicas are incredible bargains!
Original Colts has a very narrow slot. Years ago I shot an original Navy Colt with those coft caps but I cannot remeber a cap jam. On the other hand Italian guns for reasons I have no idea make a gully. So install a cap rake.I have a pair of Pietta 1860 army revolvers that have a total of about 200 rounds with no cap jams. You are correct SlixShot cones, #10 Remington caps and a cap guard (cap rake) make the guns extremely reliable. The spent caps sail out the side like links out of a machine gun.
i also found a way to prevent cap jams is put some jb weld into the notch on the hammer face and when it cures use a finger nail file or small file and file it smooth
The main spring in my Belgium made 1860 Army is much heavier than in my Uberti or Pietta. I clean the face of the hammer and tried drilling a hole in front of the hammer and putting in a small post in to stop the caps from dropping in the action with mixed results. Filling the gap in the hammer to make it solid was my best results along with slip shot type nipples. As far as I know no one makes a stronger main spring like what original colts and the Belgium Colt has.
I have purchased my first black powder revolver. It's a Uberti colt Walker. I read the manual(instructions) line by line and It does not say what cap size to use. I looked on youtube and saw in a video someone using Remington no 10 which I can't find. As I looked further, I noticed a lot of people are lost as what size and brand of cap to use. Some people were blaming misfire on using loose or wrong caps. I think Cap size and makes are worth a discussion. It would be appreciated if you could demonstrate how a cap should fit and what caps fit what guns as much as possible. I am still looking to see what other brand of caps fit my Uberti Walker other than Remington no 10. Such information is valuable since at $60 for 100 caps, we can not have an assortment of caps for the hell of trying them on.. Thank you very much for all that you do for us.
my pair of SASS competition tuned 1860 Army revolvers have fired about 250 rounds total with out a cap jam. The modification that prevents the cap jam is a cap rake (a small post in the hammer channel of the frame) that holds the spent cap in place until it is thrown clear with cylinder rotation. My guns are as reliable as a cartridge gun and twice as much fun to shoot. Your fix helps, the rake is almost fool proof.
cap`n ball has a video on it. Basically a pin welded into the upper frame, betwen cap and hammer, that way the nipple wont fall backwards way down in between hammer and frame.
your shirt says boxwell res. is that outside nashville me and another 101st airborne marksmanship worked a whole summer teaching .22 and shotgun in year 85 what a nice memory
I'm getting ready to try to slick up my brass frame '51 Colt Navy "Yank" from Pietta. I haven't fired it yet, but I've got Slixshot Nipples coming, but I also want deburr the hammer just like you've suggested. Thank you!
Good video and good suggestions. I tried Slix Shot Nipples, but they were too long and I would have had to shorten my hammer face. So for now I'm sticking with Tresso nipples. I don't know for sure, but from research I've done and reports, Colt supplied percussion caps were made from a lot heavier copper than the ones we have now. According to one report I read, Colt's worked best with Colt percussion caps, and another make, can't remember which, may have been a Remington, worked best with there caps, switch caps and problems arose.
I never thought about recoil/ gasses and the sharp edges? we also have "main spring with mass of hammer in this equation. What can YOU RECOMEND for an early 70's Uberti 1858 44 and Minor jams? I built and finished at age 12, I am a bit of a gun smith not intimidated to dig in. My caps are DIY and ARE a foil mostly aluminum some copper, working out DIY musket caps too. I live in CA and caps or BP are UnOptainium any place at any price! All my consumables are DIY, my cap jams are minor and typically in the rotation and relived at half cock and a little cylinder spin. My hammer area fouling is typically the color and look of Cap ignition residue. Love your Black Powder Stuff! Thank You Sr!
Would just using vinyl tubing to old the caps on work? I'm given to believe some folks do this as water proofing, but wondering if it would just hold the caps on too.
Blackie , great tutorial , I have problem with my 1860 model uberti, I ground down the hammer spring to lighten the trigger pull ,but now i'm getting a lot of misfires. .I want to get a new spring but even the new ones aren't very strong . my gun was made in 1970 and wondering if back then the springs were stronger. what is your advice .I never had any problems before i weakened the spring.
a weak spring can be braced that means a small shim is added above the screw where the spring is attached to the grip frame and it will add more tension i will do a video on this and post in a few days to better show what i am talking about
I tried slix shots nipples and wasn't a fan. The caps were difficult to get on and once fired, had to be pulled off. This was on my pietta 51 navy. I know other people have tried them and really liked them. I suspect that tolerances on these Italian guns can vary enough to explain the difference in our experiences.
I have a Belgium made 1860 Army made in the early 1960's and sold as the new Army 1960 by Centaure Arms. This is an unfired pistol with the factory box with even the wax paper the gun was wrapped in and I have never fired it ether. I have fired another one of these pistols I had before this one and it didn't have cap jams. I noticed the main spring was much heavier than my Uberti or Pietta springs. The fit and finish on these Belgium Colts is better to include the hammer face. I have fired an original 1860 Army an old friend had and it didn't surfer cap jams. Could it be as simple as putting a heavier main spring in from the factor would end some of this problem.
Blackie this is why you are last word on B. P. Revolvers, someday you will have to produce the definitive guide book on these. Never in 50 plus years have I heard this explained in a more clear concise yet easy to understand manner,
thank you very much sir
@@BLACKIETHOMAS I agree Blackie,you have heaps of knowledge and a book would help us shooters and put a few dollars in your pocket.
That would be a great publication to own
Excellent vid!
I used my Dremmel tool with a diamond wheel to cut my grooves in the nipple very lightly, and cleaned the fouling on the hammer and hammer stop also cleaned up the sharp edges on the hammer... boy what a difference it made,. I just shot it today and no more cap jams. 'each cap busted apart and fell off when the cylinder rotated, I also replaced my weak main spring with a new one . thanks Blackie... this is best 1860 army tutorial of them all. it is fun shooting again with a gun that functions well.
My colt .31 had horrible cap jams. Then i did the filing smooth of the cap groove on the hammer. I went to the range today, shot 80 rounds and not one jam. Its like a totally different pistol. Thanks so much Blackie. You made shooting fun again.
Hands down the best explanation of the interaction of the cone, hammer and cap I've heard. It's amazing all the little details that went into the design of these parts. Also interesting how the new, "improved" caps change the equation. Subscribed!
I'm late to the party but I gotta tell ya, I've been looking for a simple, down to earth explanation of how to stop cap jams. You explained it all simply yet in detail. Thank you, from Texas!
I have been shooting and building muzzleloaders since 1980 but have no experience with revolvers. I have been watching a lot of videos to learn about them. You have by far the best and clearest explainations of how they really work and how to take care of them.
thank you sir..hope you found the info of use..safe journeys
Simple, clear, information.
I don't see how one would thumbs down.
Thank you sir😎
Blackie, thank you for a very informative video. I learned 30 years of BP revolver experience in 15 minutes. I am really enjoying your entire BP revolver series.
I have been shooting black powder revolvers for over 50 years and discovered the issues you have given us in this very good informational video. What I did to all of my Colt revolvers was to have a really good welder close the face and cover up those silly slots. No more jams of any kind in any of my replica revolvers. My two real 1851 Navy and Army I have obviously left alone. THank you for such a great video Sir.
Thanks Blackie, your videos on black powder weapons are the most complete and easiest to understand info I have ever seen. Keep em coming.
thank you glad you found it to be of use..safe journeys
Want to know how to end cap jam? If you've ever watched cowboy movies from the 1930's, you've probably noticed that after every shot, they would point the gun up while cocking it to shoot again. They did this because they were trained by retired, real, cowboys who had shot cap and ball guns back in the day. Pointing the gun strait up while cocking allows the spent cap to fall out and not jam the gun. I had many, many jams when I first got in to black powder. Then, I read an article on the subject and it was a game changer! I've never jammed since I learned this technique.
I don't have anything to do with black powder revolvers but these videos are so informative and soothing I can't stop watching them. We need more sir.
Joining the crowd in saying that this channel is an awesome resource. Not just good information, but presented with amazing thought and talent. Thanks!
glad you enjoy it..safe journeys to ya
Great info and thanks for sharing your wisdom! In my mind's eye, I can picture a group of cavalrymen sitting around a campfire figuring this stuff out. What's old is new again.
Sir! You are a National Treasure!
Keep up your very educational videos
Mr Colt will be proud of you... Smart man !
You have a talent for compartmentalizing and explaining. You should be a teacher.
Best cap and ball channel on You Tube. Thank you.
This is the best description I've ever heard of the problem
Just the sound from this video made me understand that I'd lightened my Pietta Colt 1851 Navy's mainspring a little too much: my clicks are (were) MUCH softer than those. 07:14 confirmed it: I'm getting a ton of cap jams because I wanted my Colt to feel just like those in the movies I grew up with. What a dummy I've been. :)
Now I tightened it back up, tuned the trigger spring as to not have timing issues, and the next time I'll hit the range I'll probably thank mr. Blackie once again.
Excellent video very informative I just purchased a new 1851 Navy Colt revolver thank you sir I'll be watching more of your videos
Blackie is very good about sharing details of what works for him. This is no different. Great ideas I plan to implement on my own cap and ball revolvers
Finally a great explanation on cap action jam !! Im still having problems with loose fitting caps on my pietta revolvers !!!J
Helps me understand a lot about what’s going on with my new Uberti 1861 Navy
What a great series! Thanks Blackie, you explain it in an easy and concise manner. You have a great channel.
I'm new to black powder and your series is rapidly becoming my Bible on the topic. Thanks tons for doing these!
I have to say your explanation is the best I have ever heard or read, that is one reason I subscribed. Thanks for your time & effort.
You do a great job of explaining. There is a lot more going on than just busting a cap. This is one of the most irritating things to me about cap and ball revolvers. Thanks a lot!
Excellent discussion. There are a couple of BP shooters online who have addressed the cap jamming issue by filling the hammer nose with JB Weld. While this approach does actually help reduce cap jams, I personally wasn't ever in favor of it because it was obviously defeating a design element. There is another shooter who installed an upright pin in the frame that slid into the hammer notch, and upon cocking the hammer it scraped any stuck caps free of the notch. This approach works very well indeed, and preserves the between chamber safety, but requires a skilled machinist to do the job and its obviously going to cost. Again, not the best solution to my thinking. You have explained the issue excellently and given a practical and effective answer that anyone can do.
Your approach needs to be spread far and wide to all Colt BP shooters.
One of the absolutely best videos on this subject. Thank you for your in depth, very easy to understand explanation and fix for this issue. Great job, Bud.
Just read down a few other comments. Seems a whole lot of others are in agreement with what I said - or I'm in agreement with others, however you want to look at it. Blackie did a fantastic job of explaining this problem and how to fix it that anybody could do very easily. Thank You Blackie
Sure as hell after your tutorial I went and checked two of my revolvers and both hammers are in need of some dressing up. Thanks for your guidance. You put on a good show.
You sir, are a freaking genius!
I keep learning stuff from you thanks again
Thank you Blackie. This was very useful and sometimes I didn't know.
Blackie, I really enjoy your practical advice on these revolvers. I can apply most of your tips to my Rogers & Spencer .44 pistol. It's refreshing to watch your clear demonstrations of the finer points of making a good pistol even better. There's plenty of videos on UA-cam of people shooting their pistols right out of the box. Very few teach us how to make our time on the range and in the field more productive. Tighter groups = more fun!
Thanks again!
Good article on cap jams. I am a lover of these revolvers and I had to learn myself all your issues to prevent jams - good job! Paul Moore/Gatling gun builder
Your videos are great man. I enjoy every one of them.
Thanks Blackie, Been shooting colts since 1970,s and your info is the best I found for cap sucking gun problems :)
Goodstuf Man. You should write a book on everything to learn about percussion revolvers.
This is good info! I've found that high charges, (triple 777 etc.) Will blow the cap and hammer back. Thus making cap jams more likely.
Great info, thank you for sharing. Like your natural chat style of sharing the info...good stuff.
This man and I like you. As common sense . and knows my experience what he's dealing with. Myself I've been shooting these things since the 60s . but you have good information and I listen 😀
glad you enjoyed it
Blackie,
I'm approaching 70 years of age, but this is the first video I've found that explained cap jamming and how to deal with it... and made the explanation clear.
Great job, sir!
Next stop for me: taking the files to my 1851 and 1860s.
Thank you!
-- Old Matt
PS: I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos.
thanks you hope you find more things to like in the future..safe journeys
Very good Cap and ball revolver tip.Some guys fill the face of hammer with J& B weld as per Mr.Belliveaus recommendation.My Ruger Old Army dumps it caps in the action too but that would be a whole new lesson.Thanx for your well earned advice.
Nice one This will solve my 36's problem I have no doubt about it. Thanks for posting.
Blackie I agree with Chacote Outdoor Recreation, you are an excellent teacher and keep up the great work!!!
I appreciate that!
I second the suggestions of writing a book. Not everyone has the interwebs, and who knows when/if technology fails, books will rule the knowledge database. Excellent info in this video!
thank you
Wow, glad I found you. Ordered a Pietta 1860 army Colt 44 snub nose in Aug. They called me yesterday and are shipping it out next week. My first cap and ball. Will try it out of the box to see how it functions but now have the knowledge to tweak it as necessary. I have watched some of the c + b vids out there and to a man they all seem like great guys with a passion and desire to help us newbies. Have subscribed to your channel . Thanks Blackie, yours is one of the best !
good luck with your new revolver be safe
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thank you Mr. Thomas. Will watch your vids for info. I got it for personal protection while camping/hiking with no need for license.
Thank you for the info very very helpful, I'm getting a 1860 army like you have and now got top info on the cap problems I get occasionally with my 1851 navy
Good info. I just got a Taylor U. 1862 colt police 5 shot 36cal. every time I fire it the cap blows off and is stock just above the back of the hole for the cylinder pin. I have to get a small stick to scrape it out. The hammer is about 1/8rh" back after firing. Lots of BP residue there. 15 shots out so far
Good explanation on its function never knew that
Thank you for all the great informative videos of cap and ball revolvers. Of all the people on UA-cam concerning this subject you are hands above them all. I would love to meet you and talk sometime but I don't live in your neck of the woods, I live in the great state of Maine.
i have been taking trips to ohio last few yrs..but so far have not made it up to maine yet
Subscribed, all your black powder videos are so well documented and easy to understand. I really appreciate all your time and knowledge you share in your videos. You're my go to BP revolver teacher! Take care.
I'm about to get into black powder pistols ..thank you for the info...
Very Very Good - Thanks so much, I learned a LOT from that!
😎👍
Been having this problem since 1977. I thought I would have to live with it. Thanks a TON.
Good information blackie
I already have a fix for this. You have to work on the hammer face a little. It's not hard. Your fix is great too.
All good advice..... I have advised against lightening the springs on all percussion revolvers, or enlarging nipple holes. Doing the latter will even cap-jam an Remington. Like Blackie I had to find out this stuff by myself back in pre-internet days.
This guy knows his stuff.... althouhh I have to say that BP pressures are usually under 15,000lbs....
Excellent videos on cap and ball revolvers.
So sam colt was the the guy that invented busting caps lol. Another great video.
Black. You really need to write a book on C&B. I just found your videos. I just got into C&B last year and I love it. Great Videos. My sault and thanks from NY.
thank you sir
Thank you so much. Keep doing the good job !!! A France follower 👍
GOOD work Maestro. Thank You.
Excellent video. Makes sense.
Your videos have been very useful for my new revolver! Also, I love the Boxwell t-shirt, I have gone there a few times for boy scout camp.
yep i was a shooting sports director for BSA..got my national training at boxwell..really enjoyed the times there
Blackie another great video, I hope all is well, keep the good stuff coming.
Thank you so much. You should teach a weekend workshop!
Superb presentation and explanation of Colt's C&B revolver design, and why cap jams occur, especially in modern replicas. In order to meet a price point, modern replicas are very poorly fitted and finished compared to original Colt and Remington revolvers, and stock nipples usually have flash holes that are way too large. The good news is that Uberti and Pietta replicas have good basic quality, so that with a bit of home gunsmithing, the replicas can duplicate original quality fit and finish IF the owner/shooter is willing to do the relatively minor work needed. I've discovered that with a bit of home gunsmithing, the replica Colt and Remington revolvers are amazingly reliable and trouble-free, more so than many of my auto pistols in fact! I'm particularly impressed with Uberti barrel quality. My Uberti C&B revolvers, after tuning and slicking up, are impressive with such extreme reliability. But most impressive are the astoundingly tight groups these C&B revolvers can shoot, especially with conical bullets! For me, from a rest, precise 100 yard hits on man-sized targets are no problem at all with these "primitive" revolvers. These C&B revolver replicas are incredible bargains!
Excellent , great information, thanks!!
Original Colts has a very narrow slot. Years ago I shot an original Navy Colt with those coft caps but I cannot remeber a cap jam. On the other hand Italian guns for reasons I have no idea make a gully. So install a cap rake.I have a pair of Pietta 1860 army revolvers that have a total of about 200 rounds with no cap jams. You are correct SlixShot cones, #10 Remington caps and a cap guard (cap rake) make the guns extremely reliable. The spent caps sail out the side like links out of a machine gun.
Love your video very descriptive and informative very good thank you sir
Filing down stopped the cap sucking. Thanks for the info.
glad it helped you..safe journeys
i also found a way to prevent cap jams is put some jb weld into the notch on the hammer face and when it cures use a finger nail file or small file and file it smooth
The main spring in my Belgium made 1860 Army is much heavier than in my Uberti or Pietta. I clean the face of the hammer and tried drilling a hole in front of the hammer and putting in a small post in to stop the caps from dropping in the action with mixed results. Filling the gap in the hammer to make it solid was my best results along with slip shot type nipples. As far as I know no one makes a stronger main spring like what original colts and the Belgium Colt has.
do you have a video about what parts we should get to have on hand to keep it repaired?
I have purchased my first black powder revolver. It's a Uberti colt Walker. I read the manual(instructions) line by line and It does not say what cap size to use. I looked on youtube and saw in a video someone using Remington no 10 which I can't find. As I looked further, I noticed a lot of people are lost as what size and brand of cap to use. Some people were blaming misfire on using loose or wrong caps. I think Cap size and makes are worth a discussion. It would be appreciated if you could demonstrate how a cap should fit and what caps fit what guns as much as possible. I am still looking to see what other brand of caps fit my Uberti Walker other than Remington no 10. Such information is valuable since at $60 for 100 caps, we can not have an assortment of caps for the hell of trying them on.. Thank you very much for all that you do for us.
Excellent vid!
my pair of SASS competition tuned 1860 Army revolvers have fired about 250 rounds total with out a cap jam. The modification that prevents the cap jam is a cap rake (a small post in the hammer channel of the frame) that holds the spent cap in place until it is thrown clear with cylinder rotation. My guns are as reliable as a cartridge gun and twice as much fun to shoot. Your fix helps, the rake is almost fool proof.
Can you more explain this "rake".....or do a video about it?
cap`n ball has a video on it.
Basically a pin welded into the upper frame, betwen cap and hammer, that way the nipple wont fall backwards way down in between hammer and frame.
Outstanding info. Thank you so much. Just starting with Black powder. 44cal. Navy. Having a so to speak blast. lolo
your shirt says boxwell res. is that outside nashville me and another 101st airborne marksmanship worked a whole summer teaching .22 and shotgun in year 85 what a nice memory
yes i went to national boy scout camp school ther to become a shooting sports director
Just wanted to let you know that I have learned so much from watching your UA-cam videos. Thank you
well done thank you for your channel and education!
You're the man, Blackie.
I'm getting ready to try to slick up my brass frame '51 Colt Navy "Yank" from Pietta. I haven't fired it yet, but I've got Slixshot Nipples coming, but I also want deburr the hammer just like you've suggested. Thank you!
go slow..and good luck ..safe journeys
Blackie appreciate you sharing, its really been helpful to me.
THANKS.
Good video and good suggestions. I tried Slix Shot Nipples, but they were too long and I would have had to shorten my hammer face. So for now I'm sticking with Tresso nipples. I don't know for sure, but from research I've done and reports, Colt supplied percussion caps were made from a lot heavier copper than the ones we have now. According to one report I read, Colt's worked best with Colt percussion caps, and another make, can't remember which, may have been a Remington, worked best with there caps, switch caps and problems arose.
Very Very informative...Please write a book...
But how to know if the main spring is weak and or the problem and or how to test main spring?
Great video, thanks for sharing your experience!
I never thought about recoil/ gasses and the sharp edges? we also have "main spring with mass of hammer in this equation. What can YOU RECOMEND for an early 70's Uberti 1858 44 and Minor jams? I built and finished at age 12, I am a bit of a gun smith not intimidated to dig in.
My caps are DIY and ARE a foil mostly aluminum some copper, working out DIY musket caps too. I live in CA and caps or BP are UnOptainium any place at any price! All my consumables are DIY, my cap jams are minor and typically in the rotation and relived at half cock and a little cylinder spin.
My hammer area fouling is typically the color and look of Cap ignition residue.
Love your Black Powder Stuff! Thank You Sr!
try adding grease rings to the base pin close to the face of the cylinder it may help with the minor drag issue
Would just using vinyl tubing to old the caps on work? I'm given to believe some folks do this as water proofing, but wondering if it would just hold the caps on too.
Blackie , great tutorial , I have problem with my 1860 model uberti, I ground down the hammer spring to lighten the trigger pull ,but now i'm getting a lot of misfires. .I want to get a new spring but even the new ones aren't very strong . my gun was made in 1970 and wondering if back then the springs were stronger. what is your advice .I never had any problems before i weakened the spring.
a weak spring can be braced that means a small shim is added above the screw where the spring is attached to the grip frame and it will add more tension i will do a video on this and post in a few days to better show what i am talking about
Man thanks so much for this exellent explanations... yust whe neubies like me need... If we ever meet, the beer is on me...
lol your on ..safe journeys
Awesome, thanks Blackie
I leaned something, great content thank you
I tried slix shots nipples and wasn't a fan. The caps were difficult to get on and once fired, had to be pulled off. This was on my pietta 51 navy. I know other people have tried them and really liked them. I suspect that tolerances on these Italian guns can vary enough to explain the difference in our experiences.
I have a Belgium made 1860 Army made in the early 1960's and sold as the new Army 1960 by Centaure Arms. This is an unfired pistol with the factory box with even the wax paper the gun was wrapped in and I have never fired it ether. I have fired another one of these pistols I had before this one and it didn't have cap jams. I noticed the main spring was much heavier than my Uberti or Pietta springs. The fit and finish on these Belgium Colts is better to include the hammer face. I have fired an original 1860 Army an old friend had and it didn't surfer cap jams. Could it be as simple as putting a heavier main spring in from the factor would end some of this problem.
Had my share of too many cap jams on the Colts. Went to a Remington and have yet to have it happen. I ain’t going back, Remys rule!!
I bought my first colt reproduction I'm trying to like it alot but fact is I seem to like my 1858 Remington reproduction better