Brass frames are fine except for the glare, put a leather washer between the steel spring and the brass frame. Electrolysis makes this stress point prone to cracking.
Your videos have helped me a lot. Purchased a Ruger 'Old Army" in .457 Caliber. Thought I had made a huge mistake. Now I know better thanks to your videos. Please keep up the detailed information as it is much appreciated..
The Colt Navy 36 cal is my all time favorite hand gun. I have a Walker and Army as well as a Remington. That NAVY Points like its attached to my arm! With that said, I love the way you can carry extra cylinders for the Remington. Reload in about five seconds. wondered how to make paper cartridges and now I know. Great info on accurizing also! Awsome how to series.
Thanks to you, I'm going to spend some quality time in my shop with some files to prep the sights and cylinder pin on my new Uberti 1858 Remington before it ever leaves the house. Your videos are incredibly useful to someone who has been spoiled with modern smokeless firearms.
Blackie you really know your stuff. I know your channel isn’t just a black powder channel but to me it’s the best black powder channel out there. A wealth of information is such a short time. A credit this channel as my introduction into blackpowder guns.
Great information and knowledge about the percussion revolver. I now have three to work on that I’ve had for years! Your a wealth of knowledge so thanks.
Best cap and Ball Videos ever! Lot of history and technology said in beautiful Stories,in a lovely american Englisch, great pleasure to wach it.Thank you Sir for these series. These Guns played a signifiant role in making USA a big Nation ,later able to save Europe twice : WW l and WW II.
Putting that "witness mark" on the rammed of a revolver is brilliant! It makes perfect sense! I do that with my BP hunting rifle, why not my revolver, just never occurred to me! Thanks Blackie!
Hey Robert. That Ruger Old Army is a stout pistol! I used to load up to 40 grains of Pyrodex in my stainless one and boy did that pistol roar! That's a great one and the safety notches work great on those.
All good advice from a man with great experience.... go easy on those crowns though..... The newer repros are usually fine..... Years ago I made an 11 degree forcing cone reamer that does not need the barrel to be separated from the pistol.... very handy for tidying up a bad forcing cone.... Not often you find a bad one these days, as you say. I used that reamer mostly on pistols that I had had to set the barrel back one turn due to wear making the cylinder gape excessive.... Still have it somewhere.... I always check on a new revolver that the chamber mouths are .001" bigger than the groove diamater, and ream them to that if undersized..... I must say that the new repros I have had through my hands lately have been about spot on in this respect. Some of the earlier ones had undersized chambers and made shotgun patterns. Triggers are more often than not really good 'out of the box' these days too..... saves a lot work (and powder!)......
hey my friend great tips and a lot it works that way with cartridge guns to as far as cleaning them up ! I had a 22 that would not hit consistent cleaned up the forcing cone did the trick well atb ...tom
I've probably watched all you videos pertaining to cap and ball revolvers. I got into the sport of black powder shooting pritt near 2 years ago buying a 1851 Navy Colt. Well, yesterday to my surprise, I found a 1858 Remington new model army under the Christmas tree with my name on it. Seriously though, the hammer pull is very hard and would like to know your thoughts on how to lighten up the action so its not so daggum stiff.
Great video. I really love the look you achieved, "aging" that Remington. Just a technical note on draw filing. Draw filing is generally used to prepare long flat surfaces, such as the flats on octagon barrels, for final polishing prior to bluing. The file is held with the long axis at right angles to the work piece. The hands are held on each side of the file, thumbs against the safe edge, facing the worker. The file is held so the teeth cut as it is pulled toward the user.
A neat trick I heard for getting a consistent crown is to take a marble and lapping compound and lightly rolling the marble around in the muzzle on a piece of card.
Really enjoyed shooting the uberti 1860 44 army. Still having trouble aiming. I don't stand when I shoot. Shoots high. Next trip I will stand and shoot. Hope it helps my aim.
I have thoroughly enjoyed you percussion revolver series. You know if you hear certain unimportant words you know are incorrect, it bugs you/me. You and a lot of other people continue this error. Front sight. It is Patridge front sight not Partridge front sight. Should not bother me but it does.
I finally got my UBertie 1858 44 caliber yesterday. I’m so happy. I appreciate all of your videos. All I could find around my town was .451 balls. The manual that comes with the uBertie pistol says to use .457. On another cap and ball blog, someone warned me not to shoot the .451 in the Uberti Or I would think I was having a chain fire because the recoil will work the balls out of the cylinder. Do you think that if I load my cylinder that shooting a .451 ball will , be a problem?
I guess the way the manual reads is, you should use .454”/.457”. So I will not use the .451. But do you think it would make a difference between the .454 or the .457? And thank you again
@Paul M. Here is what I know from a variety of dealers and shooters. The bottom line is to use .454 and those are as common as .451 or .457. Im told you can get away with .451 if nothing else is possible but that you should go to the trouble to get .454. There are a variety of online sources for it, just look around. The prices in Nov 21 are about $13/100. The Uberti manual says .454/.457 but Im told the .457 isnt necessary and is too tight a fit to load. Its 3 years on since your comment, what did you finally do?
@@cvcoco I ended up finding the . 454. And that's all I use. And I use Swiss black powder . And everything is really good. Thank you for your great advice
@@paulm.6966 I could have also said that guns are not all the same and the different sizes can be tried. Cylinders arent sloppily made but 1 or 2/1000th is easy to be wrong about in the machines. Rifle barrels are commonly off when you compare to each other and they sell sizing kits so you can determine YOUR barrel size and buy those bullets. In the pistol world there are two places the bullet has to fit and people go by the cylinder size. If I remember right, the bullet is correct if it takes 20lbs of force to seat it in the cylinder, then its good enough for the forcing cone of the barrel to take over. I think the manuals say 454 or 457 to account for differences in the exact size that the user has to determine, not that you can or should use 451, 454 and 457 all in the same cylinder at the same time. What the mfrs know is that one of them will definitely be right. Would it be great if they tested each gun and left a notice in the box before shipping? Sure!
I bought a Whitney replica I've got it apart and cleaning. I found the chambers measure .363 and the grooves also BUT it has a long forcing cone about 1/4" that starts at .450 and funnels down to the .363 of the bore. I've never seen anything like that. How would that affect accuracy? Thanks for the great videos.
hmm a taper from breach to muzzle would allow it you land .grip rifling..and then exit at proper size much like the original progressive rifling..if the taper is 450 at breach and up to 363 at muzzle that one needs to go back cause the rounds will not slug up well enough to fill that gap
Get yourself some bright red nail polish for the front sight and for the safety notch some orange or another color. A metal wire cage for a small flash light or laser.
Thanks for a great video with all the great tips. My 1858 has a very strong trigger pull. You mentioned a link to a different video regarding trigger work but I never saw that link. Could you please provide that link ? I cannot locate such a video on youTube. Your videos on percussion revolvers are sure beneficial to us black powder newbies. Thanks again.
here is link to mine where i do a total breakdown and talk of how to smooth the action..since yours is a heavy pull i bet its a burr on the sear or trigger hope this helps ua-cam.com/video/T4jUmjB5QZw/v-deo.html
Thanks for your reply. When I first got this revolver, 2 weeks ago, I used your video as a tutorial and stripped my gun down and did all the things you showed on that video. There were several burrs which I removed and the revolver's action was considerably smoother when I finished. However, the trigger pull is still very heavy. Would a main spring that is excessively tight increase the trigger pull ? I just guessed at how tight the main spring screw should be and adjusted it until the action felt smooth when cocking the hammer.
excellent advice brother.. its clear you are a black powder revolver expert. You will probably be modest and say that you are not. but you are. Keep up the good advice and good shooting brother. New shooters can learn lots from this channel. I am an old shooter, but new to black powder, your advice is priceless.
I was wondering if a deburring machinist tool ( hand tool ) be best for breaking the edges or would they take off to much material so that the Drexel stone would be better to use instead?
Very informative video. I've had a Remington .44 for twenty years and now I know what to try to help accuracy. Question: I just got a Colt .31 pocket revolver. It acts like the hammer isn't hitting the caps hard enough to set them off; about 1-2 out of 5 go off like they ought to and the rest do nothing. Any ideas what I should do?
the .31's are know for weak main springs try ordering a new one..and see if that cures it..if not do what mark hubbs of eras gone bullet molds did put both springs together and see if that works
I’ve been using smokeless powder for the nna companion magnum.22, & I use a empty.22long rifle empty cartridge as a fill scoop measure and then put some little birdshot, press on the provided bullets and 💥, they’d make a great snake 🐍 load, or anything else for that matter, always have a good backstop.
Question: The Pyrodex 30gr. Powder Pellets, are these a good choice or should I use regular 3F or 4F? Also will these pellets take up enough space not to have a gap in the cylinder?
the pellets produce good power and seem to shoot well..but like you mentioned..often you have to seat the ball further down the cyl to compress and avoid airspace..in most guns it does not hurt accuracy..but in some i have seem it wreck accuracy..my advice is to try them and read and follow the makers advice..hope it goes well for ya..safe journeys
I have two 1858's a 5 1/2 inch and an 8 inch. I use a kirst conversion cylinder with a loading gate in 45acp. I had to rebate the recoil shield with a dremel so I can load from the rear. I was just wondering, were there any 5 1/2 inch ones back in the 1800's or is this just something new? Also I just got a 1851 navy in 36cal and I'm loving it.
guns could be had with what ever barrel the buyer wanted..check out the avenging angels sometime..they had one inch barrels..i have seen in a collection a 36 in barrell .36 navy with rifle sights ..and a snub nose 58
It's a PAT-ridge sight, not a "paRtridge'. Otherwise, lots of good tips. I now use a cylinder loading press that loads all six balls at the same time. I get super even pressure that way. Ringer 1
Brother, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Idk if you've found out after this video or knew before hand, but just a lil bit of vanilla extract from your local Walmart will make you about as attractive as a rare steak at a vegan restaurant to the mosquitos. Bout a capfull for each arm n a half cap for neck /face n other exposed areas.
I see you use Pyrodex. I've had only fair results with Pyroi in a single shot pistol, compared to Goex. Then I used Magnum caps or RWS hot caps and accuracy moved up to the same as with Goex
Hello Mr. Thomas , I've been watching your percussion revolver series and have learned an enormous amount of info from them. I have what I thought was an 1860 Colt army reproduction. Come to find out it's actually an 1861 Navy because it has the ship scene on the cylinder. The question that I have is identifying the maker , on the bottom of the barrel is stamped the caliber (44) , black powder only and made in Italy. Is it a Pietta or Uberty or some other brand ? By the way it has a brass frame. I bought it from an antique store and have enjoyed owning and shooting it. It's in great shape , I just wish I knew who made it. Any help you can give is much appreciated. Steve Cunningham.
the 1861 is in 36 cal both the 1861 1851 and 1860 all have that scene on the cyl. if the barrel has info on the side it should be a pietta if it is under the barrel it should be a uberti just guessing
@@blackoracle69 So I stand corrected , I have an 1860 army because the cylinder has the thicker reinforcement on the front part of the cylinder. Since the engraving is on the bottom of the barrel , I'm calling it a Uberti. Thanks very much for your help.
hi, you are making great videos, would you reccomend 5,5 or 8 inch barrel remington ? do you shoot better with a 8 inch? how much does it effect accuracy?
for woods carry as a companion i prefer the 5 inch for its compact size..and ease of handling..for target work i like the 8 for its longer sight radius..both perform equally well out to 25 yrs..at that point the 8 starts to have a advantage
thanks for an answer, i will go with the 8 inch, i am planning to load 30 grains of black powder, then 15 grains of semolina, a little bit of nivea cream on that, .454 ball greased with nivea cream and nivea on top to prevent chain fire, what do you think?
Pietta 1858 New Army with 45LC conversion cylinder. Could i take a spent 45LC case with a new primer and powder/ wad in it and load a .454 ball into the chamber over the top of it with the pistol rammer and shoot this way? This would speed up the shooting process and save me from buying alot of cartridge loading equipment.
Thanks. i know the best way is to buy a 629 SW and load with speedloaders. Just wondering if loading a case short of a bullet and loading ball over the top? Could the case be sealed with wax or something and what powder would be used? Thanks again, i enjoy your videos.
Dan. I use cream of wheat, corn meal and grits for a filler but not wheat flower. Lot easier to load. Dump some in and flow out enough to make room for the bullet. For lube I use poop lube ( wax in a toilet drain pipe seal, Johnny Ring) or the red wax that covers Baby Gouda cheese. Both are handy for waxing other stuff as well.
Pieta nipples have too taper and cause the caps split on the wrong way, emery cloth and a drill to change this to more parallel until the cap will bottom out.
+JAson Gross to antique it i stripped the blue with burchwood caseys blueing remover..then i used steelwool on all surfaces..i then applied a coat of browning (sold like blueing) and added a very light coat of blueing after the fact..allow it to rust over night steel wool it..and apply lube to prevent rusting..thats what i did with mine
If bigger balls don’t work then you could also try putting thin wads over the balls. I believe I’ve seen someone do it before with no trouble. I think they did it as a way to prevent chain fires but they might keep the balls in place.
One more question... just got this 1861 and it cycles just fine when it’s all put together but when you take to barrel and cylinder off it will only half cock and that’s it. It doesn’t cycle all the way. Any thoughts about that??? Thanks
sounds like the hand is hitting the top of its slot..when the cyl. is in place it pushed the hand further in and allows it to clear and rotate..just my guess..safe journeys
Hello again I broke my 1861 down all the way and the hand was a pain to put back in and I noticed before and after the breakdown that the hand is rubbing the arbor at the 4 o’clock position. The hand shouldn’t be touching the arbor at all right???
Glad you are rerunning this series,, it is the best out there
I just wanna say that your videos about percusion revolvers are best of the best.Bravo
thank you..safe journeys to ya
Brass frames are fine except for the glare, put a leather washer between the steel spring and the brass frame. Electrolysis makes this stress point prone to cracking.
Your videos have helped me a lot. Purchased a Ruger 'Old Army" in .457 Caliber. Thought I had made a huge mistake. Now I know better thanks to your videos. Please keep up the detailed information as it is much appreciated..
The Colt Navy 36 cal is my all time favorite hand gun. I have a Walker and Army as well as a Remington. That NAVY Points like its attached to my arm! With that said, I love the way you can carry extra cylinders for the Remington. Reload in about five seconds. wondered how to make paper cartridges and now I know. Great info on accurizing also! Awsome how to series.
+Bill Rivenbark thanks
Thanks to you, I'm going to spend some quality time in my shop with some files to prep the sights and cylinder pin on my new Uberti 1858 Remington before it ever leaves the house. Your videos are incredibly useful to someone who has been spoiled with modern smokeless firearms.
Blackie you really know your stuff. I know your channel isn’t just a black powder channel but to me it’s the best black powder channel out there. A wealth of information is such a short time. A credit this channel as my introduction into blackpowder guns.
Another great video. Thank you. Cheers.
Blackie always does great videos!
Great information and knowledge about the percussion revolver. I now have three to work on that I’ve had for years! Your a wealth of knowledge so thanks.
the voice of experience.
good advice!
Best cap and Ball Videos ever! Lot of history and technology said in beautiful Stories,in a lovely american Englisch, great pleasure to wach it.Thank you Sir for these series.
These Guns played a signifiant role in making USA a big Nation ,later able to save Europe twice : WW l and WW II.
Blackie, I've almost watched all of your percussion revolver videos. They are very helpful and you give good advice. Thanks and safe journeys.
Putting that "witness mark" on the rammed of a revolver is brilliant! It makes perfect sense! I do that with my BP hunting rifle, why not my revolver, just never occurred to me! Thanks Blackie!
yep the same depth and pressure shot to shot ..makes for good groups
Rammer...not rammed. Spell check is killing me! This is one of the most important videos I've ever seen on this subject.😄
thank you very much i have a new series coming i am going to be testing the bullets from eras gone .36 and .44 it should be a real eye opener
Great video Blackie. Thanks
The man just has a way of explaining technical stuff to the common man
This was exactly what I was looking for... love the details.... every little thing adds up dosen't it
Thanks so much I did my sights today on my 1858 .You have some great advice.
Thank you for the lessons.
Hey Robert. That Ruger Old Army is a stout pistol! I used to load up to 40 grains of Pyrodex in my stainless one and boy did that pistol roar! That's a great one and the safety notches work great on those.
You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you.
Thk u. Pertinent info; educational, complete, and able for a novice to do unassisted.
Very well explained and demonstrated. You gave all the necessary information to make a reloaded into a good hand loader.
Love your muzzeloading rifle series. Keep it up.
Thanks for the tips. I'm pretty new at this.
glad to help
I bought a 1858 back in 1964 from Navy Arms and it is very accurate,no modifications.
navy arms made lots of good stuff i have owned many of the products over the yrs
I absolutely love a lot your infos about CB revolver, merci pour ça !
thanks hope to have more videos in the future
Skeeters? I lived in Houston, Texas for almost 30 years and we had skeeters
so big there they had a pilot and a co pilot.
They are so big in Alaska, that they use them to drill for oil.
All good advice from a man with great experience.... go easy on those crowns though..... The newer repros are usually fine..... Years ago I made an 11 degree forcing cone reamer that does not need the barrel to be separated from the pistol.... very handy for tidying up a bad forcing cone.... Not often you find a bad one these days, as you say. I used that reamer mostly on pistols that I had had to set the barrel back one turn due to wear making the cylinder gape excessive.... Still have it somewhere....
I always check on a new revolver that the chamber mouths are .001" bigger than the groove diamater, and ream them to that if undersized..... I must say that the new repros I have had through my hands lately have been about spot on in this respect. Some of the earlier ones had undersized chambers and made shotgun patterns. Triggers are more often than not really good 'out of the box' these days too..... saves a lot work (and powder!)......
Absolutely love this series, Blackie.
Thanks blackie, for the good,well thought information you give
I love the looks of the Remington. I enjoy mike"s videos too! hate he's not able to put out vids right now.
hey my friend great tips and a lot it works that way with cartridge guns to as far as cleaning them up ! I had a 22 that would not hit consistent cleaned up the forcing cone did the trick well atb ...tom
Excellent information, well presented.
Thank you kindly!
That is useful information. Thanks for sharing. Nice pistol by the way.
Very informative and educational. Thank you very much
I love your videos. Very informative. Thank you.
Thank's!
Watching this helped me realize I've been loading my 1858 Remington wrong - I haven't been compressing the powder using the rammer.
You make a lot of sense, I enjoyed your video. Thank you
I've probably watched all you videos pertaining to cap and ball revolvers. I got into the sport of black powder shooting pritt near 2 years ago buying a 1851 Navy Colt. Well, yesterday to my surprise, I found a 1858 Remington new model army under the Christmas tree with my name on it. Seriously though, the hammer pull is very hard and would like to know your thoughts on how to lighten up the action so its not so daggum stiff.
Great video. I really love the look you achieved, "aging" that Remington. Just a technical note on draw filing. Draw filing is generally used to prepare long flat surfaces, such as the flats on octagon barrels, for final polishing prior to bluing. The file is held with the long axis at right angles to the work piece. The hands are held on each side of the file, thumbs against the safe edge, facing the worker. The file is held so the teeth cut as it is pulled toward the user.
Keep up the good work, Blackie. Your videos are both informative and entertaining; among the best.
A neat trick I heard for getting a consistent crown is to take a marble and lapping compound and lightly rolling the marble around in the muzzle on a piece of card.
i have done that but with a brass carrage bolt head
Really enjoyed shooting the uberti 1860 44 army. Still having trouble aiming. I don't stand when I shoot. Shoots high. Next trip I will stand and shoot. Hope it helps my aim.
Very detailed video. Thanks for uploading, I enjoyed it
I love your videos it's been so informative
Great tips and great videos! I am on the edge of getting a black powder gun.
fair warning..once you get one...your gonna want another one..lol...safe journeys
Cool video, thanks for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this information !
I have thoroughly enjoyed you percussion revolver series. You know if you hear certain unimportant words you know are incorrect, it bugs you/me. You and a lot of other people continue this error. Front sight. It is Patridge front sight not Partridge front sight. Should not bother me but it does.
Hey Blackie, great info as alwyas. But... Where is that link to the tuning video that you were talking about (7:30ish)?
Haha 3:06 when he went for the mosquito. We’ve all had that exact look and feeling he did hahaha
I like your take on this, following.
THANKS AND WELCOME TO THE CHANNEL..SAFE JOURNEYS
Great video!
My favorite moment: 9:00 “I’ve simply took 🙏 a file”
Right after finishing the video, the man loaded up his revolver and started shooting them damn mosquitoes...
i know I'm pretty off topic but do anyone know a good site to watch new movies online ?
@Jayceon Santana Lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google =)
@Colby Franklin yup, I've been using flixzone for since march myself =)
@Colby Franklin thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service =) I appreciate it !!
@Jayceon Santana happy to help xD
Excellent video.
Another great video! I have a question though. Did you "antique" your guns or are they just that worn from use? Just curios.
+sackett68 the 1858 is antiqued..the other gun is just 30yrs of use
Great videos very interesting thanks for sharing atb John
Very informative,,, thanks,,,
I finally got my UBertie 1858 44 caliber yesterday. I’m so happy. I appreciate all of your videos. All I could find around my town was .451 balls. The manual that comes with the uBertie pistol says to use .457. On another cap and ball blog, someone warned me not to shoot the .451 in the Uberti Or I would think I was having a chain fire because the recoil will work the balls out of the cylinder. Do you think that if I load my cylinder that shooting a .451 ball will , be a problem?
I guess the way the manual reads is, you should use .454”/.457”. So I will not use the .451. But do you think it would make a difference between the .454 or the .457? And thank you again
@Paul M. Here is what I know from a variety of dealers and shooters. The bottom line is to use .454 and those are as common as .451 or .457. Im told you can get away with .451 if nothing else is possible but that you should go to the trouble to get .454. There are a variety of online sources for it, just look around. The prices in Nov 21 are about $13/100. The Uberti manual says .454/.457 but Im told the .457 isnt necessary and is too tight a fit to load. Its 3 years on since your comment, what did you finally do?
@@cvcoco I ended up finding the . 454. And that's all I use. And I use Swiss black powder . And everything is really good. Thank you for your great advice
@@paulm.6966 I could have also said that guns are not all the same and the different sizes can be tried. Cylinders arent sloppily made but 1 or 2/1000th is easy to be wrong about in the machines. Rifle barrels are commonly off when you compare to each other and they sell sizing kits so you can determine YOUR barrel size and buy those bullets. In the pistol world there are two places the bullet has to fit and people go by the cylinder size. If I remember right, the bullet is correct if it takes 20lbs of force to seat it in the cylinder, then its good enough for the forcing cone of the barrel to take over. I think the manuals say 454 or 457 to account for differences in the exact size that the user has to determine, not that you can or should use 451, 454 and 457 all in the same cylinder at the same time. What the mfrs know is that one of them will definitely be right. Would it be great if they tested each gun and left a notice in the box before shipping? Sure!
Good information here, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Good Stuff...The Straight of it, for sure!
glad you liked it
I bought a Whitney replica I've got it apart and cleaning. I found the chambers measure .363 and the grooves also BUT it has a long forcing cone about 1/4" that starts at .450 and funnels down to the .363 of the bore. I've never seen anything like that. How would that affect accuracy? Thanks for the great videos.
hmm a taper from breach to muzzle would allow it you land .grip rifling..and then exit at proper size much like the original progressive rifling..if the taper is 450 at breach and up to 363 at muzzle that one needs to go back cause the rounds will not slug up well enough to fill that gap
Get yourself some bright red nail polish for the front sight and for the safety notch some orange or another color. A metal wire cage for a small flash light or laser.
thanks I'll give it a try
Thanks for a great video with all the great tips. My 1858 has a very strong trigger pull. You mentioned a link to a different video regarding trigger work but I never saw that link. Could you please provide that link ? I cannot locate such a video on youTube. Your videos on percussion revolvers are sure beneficial to us black powder newbies. Thanks again.
here is link to mine where i do a total breakdown and talk of how to smooth the action..since yours is a heavy pull i bet its a burr on the sear or trigger hope this helps
ua-cam.com/video/T4jUmjB5QZw/v-deo.html
Thanks for your reply. When I first got this revolver, 2 weeks ago, I used your video as a tutorial and stripped my gun down and did all the things you showed on that video. There were several burrs which I removed and the revolver's action was considerably smoother when I finished. However, the trigger pull is still very heavy. Would a main spring that is excessively tight increase the trigger pull ? I just guessed at how tight the main spring screw should be and adjusted it until the action felt smooth when cocking the hammer.
Yup Here goes,Blackie; Saving the Down & Dirty 4 last, Ain't he neat ? ATB Terry God Bless
excellent advice brother.. its clear you are a black powder revolver expert. You will probably be modest and say that you are not. but you are. Keep up the good advice and good shooting brother. New shooters can learn lots from this channel. I am an old shooter, but new to black powder, your advice is priceless.
thanks..i try to pass on what i have learned ..safe journeys
I need to do all this. I still haven't shot mine once. Almost there
Beveling that exit to the chamber to swage the bullet on the Colt can also reduce the risk of chain fire, some say.
I was wondering if a deburring machinist tool ( hand tool ) be best for breaking the edges or would they take off to much material so that the Drexel stone would be better to use instead?
Very informative video. I've had a Remington .44 for twenty years and now I know what to try to help accuracy.
Question: I just got a Colt .31 pocket revolver. It acts like the hammer isn't hitting the caps hard enough to set them off; about 1-2 out of 5 go off like they ought to and the rest do nothing. Any ideas what I should do?
the .31's are know for weak main springs try ordering a new one..and see if that cures it..if not do what mark hubbs of eras gone bullet molds did put both springs together and see if that works
How do you set time
I’ve been using smokeless powder for the nna companion magnum.22, & I use a empty.22long rifle empty cartridge as a fill scoop measure and then put some little birdshot, press on the provided bullets and 💥, they’d make a great snake 🐍 load, or anything else for that matter, always have a good backstop.
Have you ever done reviews or shooting videos of the Pietta 1873 black powder SAA style revolver?
no i have not i have had and used them before..but have not done a video on them
Question: The Pyrodex 30gr. Powder Pellets, are these a good choice or should I use regular 3F or 4F? Also will these pellets take up enough space not to have a gap in the cylinder?
the pellets produce good power and seem to shoot well..but like you mentioned..often you have to seat the ball further down the cyl to compress and avoid airspace..in most guns it does not hurt accuracy..but in some i have seem it wreck accuracy..my advice is to try them and read and follow the makers advice..hope it goes well for ya..safe journeys
I have two 1858's a 5 1/2 inch and an 8 inch. I use a kirst conversion cylinder with a loading gate in 45acp. I had to rebate the recoil shield with a dremel so I can load from the rear. I was just wondering, were there any 5 1/2 inch ones back in the 1800's or is this just something new? Also I just got a 1851 navy in 36cal and I'm loving it.
guns could be had with what ever barrel the buyer wanted..check out the avenging angels sometime..they had one inch barrels..i have seen in a collection a 36 in barrell .36 navy with rifle sights ..and a snub nose 58
blackoracle69 I want an avenging angel. I didn't know they were a real thing back then though. It makes me want one even more now.
It's a PAT-ridge sight, not a "paRtridge'. Otherwise, lots of good tips. I now use a cylinder loading press that loads all six balls at the same time. I get super even pressure that way. Ringer 1
you are correct...just my southern twang getting in the way...thanks for the comments..safe journeys
I been looking at the naa .22 mag is there any other .22 makers out that I can compare too
He’s so tactical
How can I water proof my b.p. revolver loaded ??
Skeeters!
What black powder do you recommend?
Brother, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Idk if you've found out after this video or knew before hand, but just a lil bit of vanilla extract from your local Walmart will make you about as attractive as a rare steak at a vegan restaurant to the mosquitos. Bout a capfull for each arm n a half cap for neck /face n other exposed areas.
thanks for the tip
First rule of a gun fight = bring a gun, my 1858 Remington sherrif fits, you don't want to be my target!
I see you use Pyrodex. I've had only fair results with Pyroi in a single shot pistol, compared to Goex. Then I used Magnum caps or RWS hot caps and accuracy moved up to the same as with Goex
At 12:44 you spin the cylinder. Is this perfectly fine with percussion cap revolvers? Will excessively doing that damage the gun?
i have not found it to cause problems..it can if parts are not proper heat treated
Hello Mr. Thomas , I've been watching your percussion revolver series and have learned an enormous amount of info from them. I have what I thought was an 1860 Colt army reproduction. Come to find out it's actually an 1861 Navy because it has the ship scene on the cylinder. The question that I have is identifying the maker , on the bottom of the barrel is stamped the caliber (44) , black powder only and made in Italy. Is it a Pietta or Uberty or some other brand ? By the way it has a brass frame. I bought it from an antique store and have enjoyed owning and shooting it. It's in great shape , I just wish I knew who made it. Any help you can give is much appreciated. Steve Cunningham.
the 1861 is in 36 cal both the 1861 1851 and 1860 all have that scene on the cyl. if the barrel has info on the side it should be a pietta if it is under the barrel it should be a uberti just guessing
@@blackoracle69 So I stand corrected , I have an 1860 army because the cylinder has the thicker reinforcement on the front part of the cylinder. Since the engraving is on the bottom of the barrel , I'm calling it a Uberti. Thanks very much for your help.
hi, you are making great videos, would you reccomend 5,5 or 8 inch barrel remington ? do you shoot better with a 8 inch? how much does it effect accuracy?
for woods carry as a companion i prefer the 5 inch for its compact size..and ease of handling..for target work i like the 8 for its longer sight radius..both perform equally well out to 25 yrs..at that point the 8 starts to have a advantage
thanks for an answer, i will go with the 8 inch, i am planning to load 30 grains of black powder, then 15 grains of semolina, a little bit of nivea cream on that, .454 ball greased with nivea cream and nivea on top to prevent chain fire, what do you think?
Blackie, I have lubricated some .454 round balls with liquid Alox . Should they work well in my 1861 Army?
they should i lube mine the same way and it has proven to help
Pietta 1858 New Army with 45LC conversion cylinder. Could i take a spent 45LC case with a new primer and powder/ wad in it and load a .454 ball into the chamber over the top of it with the pistol rammer and shoot this way? This would speed up the shooting process and save me from buying alot of cartridge loading equipment.
yes it can be done..but the best way to do it would be to seat the ball into the case and then into the cyl..
Thanks. i know the best way is to buy a 629 SW and load with speedloaders. Just wondering if loading a case short of a bullet and loading ball over the top? Could the case be sealed with wax or something and what powder would be used? Thanks again, i enjoy your videos.
can you use nivea cream as loob behind the ball and semolina or corn meal instead of a wad?
Dan. I use cream of wheat, corn meal and grits for a filler but not wheat flower. Lot easier to load. Dump some in and flow out enough to make room for the bullet. For lube I use poop lube ( wax in a toilet drain pipe seal, Johnny Ring) or the red wax that covers Baby Gouda cheese. Both are handy for waxing other stuff as well.
I have an 1861 Navy steel frame Uberti and can’t find a screw kit for it. Will the 1860 or the 1851 kits work???
1860 should same frame
Pieta nipples have too taper and cause the caps split on the wrong way, emery cloth and a drill to change this to more parallel until the cap will bottom out.
English is not my first language, but hell, i understand every word you say! Are you a teacher? ;)
thank you..safe journeys
I got a question, I just bought two new cap n ball pistols one nickel and one blued ,now the one blued how can I make it look worn and faded
+JAson Gross to antique it i stripped the blue with burchwood caseys blueing remover..then i used steelwool on all surfaces..i then applied a coat of browning (sold like blueing) and added a very light coat of blueing after the fact..allow it to rust over night steel wool it..and apply lube to prevent rusting..thats what i did with mine
I have an Army San Paulo 1858. With .454 balls I get a led ring, but the ball still is loose in the cylinder. What's the best fix?
try 457..often these are marked for the ruger..if that does not work look to dixie gun works they make round ball moulds in lots of odd sizes
If bigger balls don’t work then you could also try putting thin wads over the balls. I believe I’ve seen someone do it before with no trouble. I think they did it as a way to prevent chain fires but they might keep the balls in place.
One more question... just got this 1861 and it cycles just fine when it’s all put together but when you take to barrel and cylinder off it will only half cock and that’s it. It doesn’t cycle all the way. Any thoughts about that??? Thanks
sounds like the hand is hitting the top of its slot..when the cyl. is in place it pushed the hand further in and allows it to clear and rotate..just my guess..safe journeys
Hello again I broke my 1861 down all the way and the hand was a pain to put back in and I noticed before and after the breakdown that the hand is rubbing the arbor at the 4 o’clock position. The hand shouldn’t be touching the arbor at all right???
it should slide past it..a burr at the arbor may be hanging up the hand on its path
Any tips for making snake or "ratshot" loads?
+jeffgail99 that video is coming in the near future..thanks for watching