Great advice!! My first "quilt" was a couple of quilted pillowcases, I saw them the other day and had a chuckle at my so not straight seams, but they still look Ok-ish - as in I'm not "ashamed" to show them off. My first "real" quilt was a twin/almost queen and it's not something I look at and like. However, my daughter (who got my first quilt) loves it, even if it's super wonky - I have since made her another quilt I'm very proud of. I have made a bunch of quilted pillowcases and those were great to practice on. I still use them, some I had to fix - seams popped. Never give up but don't bite of more than you can chew!
I have read that in pioneer days, girls were started on quilting about age five because it was believed that she only had about ten years to fill her hope chest. And little girls were started on nine patch blocks.
@@prettysimplesara I don't have any machines. (Not enough money, not enough space-i live in a studio) so, I'm hand sewing. Yes, I know it will a lot of stitching. I'm ok with that! Lol
@@nicolebowman7354 Since you likely want to get it done quickly, and you are sewing by hand, you might want to use cheater quilt. To still make it personal, you could use Spoonflower's Fill-a-Yard Two yard template to pick fabric designs that are personal for you and your friend. You can learn more about that here - blog.spoonflower.com/2018/06/26/make-a-totally-rad-80s-inspired-quilt-with-fill-a-yard/ And here - support.spoonflower.com/hc/en-us/articles/360051865251-Fill-A-Yard-Guide The two yard template would make a quilt 42 by 72 inches (using Petal Signature Cotton. You would also need to get some fabric for backing and binding. Backing does have to be a little bigger than the quilt itself, so that's a little tricker to make all work with Spoonflower. It might be easier to pick the backing fabric at your local store to make sure it's big enough. But buying fabric for the binding that matches the top would be a nice touch. Then you get to decide how to 'quilt' it. To learn more about that - see here - prettysimplesara.com/finish-your-quilt/. You could definitely tie it by hand. But you'd still need to bind it. If you took it to a long armer and had them quilt it for you, they may also offer binding services. If you do the binding the way I show in at the link above and take it to the long armer, you would need a 1/2 yard of fabric for the binding (cutting six 2.5 inch strips). I don't know what your $ versus time budget is. Longarmers cost. Spoonflower fabric will be more than Joann's. But picking the designs to go on the front would be really sweet, and you would still be 'making' it for her. I'm sure that was all overwhelming! Sorry! But ask questions, please :). Note: I have not done this yet myself. I'm actually in the process of putting some designs up on Spoonflower. I don't have them all finalized and ready for sale yet, but now when they are I will try this out myself!
Hello Sara! Thank you for your amazing vidoes, they help a lot! Could you make a video about sewing curves? Mayby you have some tricks to shere right away below this comment?
@@sillygirl-v3y Okay - I will put this on the list of videos, but until then, the important thing about sewing an accurate seam allowance on a curve is that you have to be paying attention up near the needle. The seam allowance is the distance the needle is from the edge of the fabric when it's at the point of going in. So you can't use the tape way in front of the needle technique that I recommend when sewing straight lines...but you probably already figure that out :) In terms of sewing along, depending on the sharpness of the curve, you may need to stop, drop your needle into the fabric (you may have a button on your machine, or just use the handwheel), then lift the presser foot and turn the fabric slightly, put down the presser foot and sew some more. That helps with things bunch up as you try to turn the fabric. Putting the needle down keeps you from having jumps in the seam. If you do this in small increments you will still have a nice smooth curve. Did that make sense?
Thanks for the pattern and analysis of what makes an easy early quilt. So helpful!
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Loved your chocolate analogies!
Glad you like them! I was getting hungry when I was editing the video😂😂
Great tips and clear instructions! Thanks for sharing these important points!
Great advice!! My first "quilt" was a couple of quilted pillowcases, I saw them the other day and had a chuckle at my so not straight seams, but they still look Ok-ish - as in I'm not "ashamed" to show them off. My first "real" quilt was a twin/almost queen and it's not something I look at and like. However, my daughter (who got my first quilt) loves it, even if it's super wonky - I have since made her another quilt I'm very proud of. I have made a bunch of quilted pillowcases and those were great to practice on. I still use them, some I had to fix - seams popped. Never give up but don't bite of more than you can chew!
Thanks for sharing your journey and your great attitude! Sounds like you are enjoying yourself❤️🙂
I have read that in pioneer days, girls were started on quilting about age five because it was believed that she only had about ten years to fill her hope chest. And little girls were started on nine patch blocks.
They were busy! When I learned hand piecing I did indeed start with a nine patch!
No machine had been holding me back. I want to make one for my bff, who is going through cancer. I think I need to do a quilt. Lol
I hear it gets cold during chemo, so definitely a quilt! Are you okay with the machine now?
@@prettysimplesara I don't have any machines. (Not enough money, not enough space-i live in a studio) so, I'm hand sewing. Yes, I know it will a lot of stitching. I'm ok with that! Lol
@@nicolebowman7354 A handstitched quilt will have extra love stitched in. What pattern are you making?
@@prettysimplesara I'm still researching/searching patterns
@@nicolebowman7354 Since you likely want to get it done quickly, and you are sewing by hand, you might want to use cheater quilt. To still make it personal, you could use Spoonflower's Fill-a-Yard Two yard template to pick fabric designs that are personal for you and your friend.
You can learn more about that here - blog.spoonflower.com/2018/06/26/make-a-totally-rad-80s-inspired-quilt-with-fill-a-yard/
And here - support.spoonflower.com/hc/en-us/articles/360051865251-Fill-A-Yard-Guide
The two yard template would make a quilt 42 by 72 inches (using Petal Signature Cotton. You would also need to get some fabric for backing and binding. Backing does have to be a little bigger than the quilt itself, so that's a little tricker to make all work with Spoonflower. It might be easier to pick the backing fabric at your local store to make sure it's big enough. But buying fabric for the binding that matches the top would be a nice touch.
Then you get to decide how to 'quilt' it. To learn more about that - see here - prettysimplesara.com/finish-your-quilt/. You could definitely tie it by hand. But you'd still need to bind it. If you took it to a long armer and had them quilt it for you, they may also offer binding services. If you do the binding the way I show in at the link above and take it to the long armer, you would need a 1/2 yard of fabric for the binding (cutting six 2.5 inch strips).
I don't know what your $ versus time budget is. Longarmers cost. Spoonflower fabric will be more than Joann's. But picking the designs to go on the front would be really sweet, and you would still be 'making' it for her.
I'm sure that was all overwhelming! Sorry! But ask questions, please :).
Note: I have not done this yet myself. I'm actually in the process of putting some designs up on Spoonflower. I don't have them all finalized and ready for sale yet, but now when they are I will try this out myself!
Hello Sara! Thank you for your amazing vidoes, they help a lot! Could you make a video about sewing curves? Mayby you have some tricks to shere right away below this comment?
Great suggestion! Is it sewing on a curve or sewing two curves together with the easing that you’re interested in?
@@prettysimplesara Principally sewing on a curve
@@sillygirl-v3y Okay - I will put this on the list of videos, but until then, the important thing about sewing an accurate seam allowance on a curve is that you have to be paying attention up near the needle. The seam allowance is the distance the needle is from the edge of the fabric when it's at the point of going in. So you can't use the tape way in front of the needle technique that I recommend when sewing straight lines...but you probably already figure that out :)
In terms of sewing along, depending on the sharpness of the curve, you may need to stop, drop your needle into the fabric (you may have a button on your machine, or just use the handwheel), then lift the presser foot and turn the fabric slightly, put down the presser foot and sew some more. That helps with things bunch up as you try to turn the fabric. Putting the needle down keeps you from having jumps in the seam. If you do this in small increments you will still have a nice smooth curve.
Did that make sense?
Thank you! I really made sense. I tried it on my machine and knowing that paying attention up to the needle is right thing to do