Big respect for stepping up and buying quality parts. There are a lot of k-members on the market that may be suitable for drag racing but they're not study enough for street or road course.
Nice man!!! I too am fixing up my dream four eyed fox…my project roller 1985 factory T-Top coupe with capri fenders and quarters put on! Replacing the full floorpan cause it was rusted out and the engine bay is bare and gonna sand and paint it..got lucky cause previous owner welded up a lot of the holes and it’s clean👍🏻 thinking of doing the MM k member too!! I love their stuff I’ve had very good luck with all their suspension and frame brace stuff
I’m well within driving distance of UPR products and they have a kit as well, i ended up going to a local hardware store and got everything i wanted from them. It was much cheaper plus they’re cool people.
Do what you like...but you should know that you're subbing in inferior grade critical fasteners compared to OEM. Pick your poison, take your chances, but you really should be aware going in what you're doing. 10.9 is a metric bolt grade...it's inferior to SAE grade 8 hardware.
I see most of this hardware as wear parts which will be swapped out as time goes on considering the potential abuse they’ll see so I’m not too worried about it. Considering the condition of the hardware that came off it’s a good upgrade from that. With that said I’ll eventually be replacing the control arm bushings to delrin and will take that opportunity to do the grade 8 hardware
Quick note, i did some digging while looking at other stuff and according to what i can find the factory hardware is 9.8 (according to CJ Pony part’s website description for UPR replacment hardware) and all aftermarket hardware i can find is grade 10.9 I also found my factory hardware which is marked 10.9 so either someone swapped mine out or someone upgraded it over the decades this car has been on the road. I also confirmed my factory K member bolts are 9.8 from the factory. Regardless i still agree grade 8 is better, seems to not be necessary. Just want to clear this up for anyone reading
Big respect for stepping up and buying quality parts. There are a lot of k-members on the market that may be suitable for drag racing but they're not study enough for street or road course.
Thank you, i really appreciate the compliment
I'm subbed, keep this content coming bro and your going to the top! 🔥💯🎉
I really appreciate it man, I’m trying to keep everything in order and the quality as high as i can!
@@StockBlocks You're doing an excellent job! 🔥💯
Nice man!!! I too am fixing up my dream four eyed fox…my project roller 1985 factory T-Top coupe with capri fenders and quarters put on! Replacing the full floorpan cause it was rusted out and the engine bay is bare and gonna sand and paint it..got lucky cause previous owner welded up a lot of the holes and it’s clean👍🏻 thinking of doing the MM k member too!! I love their stuff I’ve had very good luck with all their suspension and frame brace stuff
Sounds like a great build so far, i haven’t tested my MM parts yet but I’m sure you’ll feel a big difference
Whooop whoooop 😮💨
LMR has kmember hardware complete
I’m well within driving distance of UPR products and they have a kit as well, i ended up going to a local hardware store and got everything i wanted from them. It was much cheaper plus they’re cool people.
Lmr has upr products and hardware and they cheap and do discounts. But i understand and worked out so you all good.
Do what you like...but you should know that you're subbing in inferior grade critical fasteners compared to OEM. Pick your poison, take your chances, but you really should be aware going in what you're doing.
10.9 is a metric bolt grade...it's inferior to SAE grade 8 hardware.
I see most of this hardware as wear parts which will be swapped out as time goes on considering the potential abuse they’ll see so I’m not too worried about it. Considering the condition of the hardware that came off it’s a good upgrade from that.
With that said I’ll eventually be replacing the control arm bushings to delrin and will take that opportunity to do the grade 8 hardware
Quick note, i did some digging while looking at other stuff and according to what i can find the factory hardware is 9.8 (according to CJ Pony part’s website description for UPR replacment hardware) and all aftermarket hardware i can find is grade 10.9
I also found my factory hardware which is marked 10.9 so either someone swapped mine out or someone upgraded it over the decades this car has been on the road.
I also confirmed my factory K member bolts are 9.8 from the factory.
Regardless i still agree grade 8 is better, seems to not be necessary.
Just want to clear this up for anyone reading