I don't know if there is a trick to it or not, but that T-55 bit wants to wobble around in there, like it's not fitting snug enough. I feel like I'm gonna round off the bolt trying to get it out. Any secrets for this?
Thanks for the video. I am going to follow your steps to replace the rear pads/rotor of my 2014 Cherokee. One question, when I tried to order brake pads/rotor, all websites ask for vehicle model with single or dual piston front calipers. Are all models equipped with single piston REAR caliper? Thanks.
Reuse. Imagine how ridiculous it would be if every time you inspected brakes or serviced them or quoted someone brakes you told them by the way we gotta order new bolts for you lol then when you come back we gotta buy more bolts when you actually need them replaced lol
Nice work. I have my EPB always turned off..(it's not a manual transmission) is this service step something that I just gotta do anyway before back brake service? Obviously not a big deal, just curious
Yea you gotta do it. Because when you install new brake ads they are thicker. So the electronic parking brake needs to relearn its distance from engagement and disengagement. Also I know people hating using the parking brake but when you don't and your on a incline you put alot of atress on the parking gear detent on the transmission. I know its super rare but sometimes it brakes and the vehicle wil come out of park. Super rare. Have a good one and goodluck brother.
Yes but they should be replaced every time there removed according to manual so technically what is the torque spec on a used bolt I do not know the value. Make sense?
First one to comment on this. Nice video. I will follow these proper steps. You put anti-size under each hardware. I think normal lube would work too to prevent corrosion under there? But i think the lube on pads should be something that resists high temp. The pads get real hot. High temp lube can prevent smoke, burnt smell, I think. Thanks for putting this w Video out there.
What do I know? Lol 15 years platinum certified former Honda technician. I used to work in the northern town that had tons of snow and salt. The corrosion was insane. Thats why I think I just do that level on all cars now. Thanks for watching hope it's useful. More videos coming of course.
@@MyHomeGarage Question....there's a lot of noise out there that purple brake lubricant is no bueno. I used Green Permatex. Is there any validity to purple vs green or is it just internet glop?
M77 is traditionally what I use. It’s a grey thick grease used by Honda for brake components. It is designed for brake hardware. Try and not be so liberal with grease or paste because the more you put on the more dirt is attracted and sticks to paste.
Internet nonsense. Bosch pads supply green I find it it has the consistency of wheel bearing grease. The grey stuff like oem Honda M77 is super thick and water repellent. I know because of 15 years I worked there. I prefer the m77 contact points only. Every manufacturer has there preference for pad lube and piston to pad contact areas. Whatever you like trust me no actual difference in your life
I have the same vehicle in my shop that I'm about to work on. customer got metal on metal, both calipers are seized. 2 questions tho: 1) No need to disconnect battery? I saw conflicting videos. 2) no need to bleed them? mind you there's no brake fluid because there rear caliper piston popped and leaked out.
I don't believe the battery disconnection is nessessary. No need to bleed the brakes unless you want. The parking brake side is mechanical not hydraulic.
@@MyHomeGarage so after I put everything together, I pour brake fluid, put the car on run position and just step on the brake to re-engage the electric brake or do I re-engage from the menu then press down on the brake pedal and start bleeding?
I replaced the back pads & when I went back in to computer to put e brake back on it said park brake needs service. It locked the e brake. How can I manually release it? I’m stuck in my garage. Thank you.
I'm not sure. I believe you can manually retract the packing break by taking the cover off the parking brake actuator and then screwing or unscrewing the piston.
Great video. Thanks for making and posting it.
Thanks for the video. I was going to do the electronic brake manually.
What an awesome video it was exactly what I needed to know!!!
Thanks for sharing this video, it was really helpful to know I needed a t55 torx bit before taking everything apart!
Excellent video I do things the exact same way, so many think a brake job is just slapping on pads and rotors
You can slap things together lol. But doesn't mean its done right.
I don't know if there is a trick to it or not, but that T-55 bit wants to wobble around in there, like it's not fitting snug enough. I feel like I'm gonna round off the bolt trying to get it out. Any secrets for this?
Thanks for the video. I am going to follow your steps to replace the rear pads/rotor of my 2014 Cherokee. One question, when I tried to order brake pads/rotor, all websites ask for vehicle model with single or dual piston front calipers. Are all models equipped with single piston REAR caliper? Thanks.
You have to confirm. Look at the caliper. See how many pistons it has. There was probably a brembo option
did you replace the rear caliper bracket bolts or reuse? I've seen a lot of stuff saying you should buy new ones if you take the factory ones off
Reuse. Imagine how ridiculous it would be if every time you inspected brakes or serviced them or quoted someone brakes you told them by the way we gotta order new bolts for you lol then when you come back we gotta buy more bolts when you actually need them replaced lol
What's all that wetness on the calipers
Nice work. I have my EPB always turned off..(it's not a manual transmission) is this service step something that I just gotta do anyway before back brake service? Obviously not a big deal, just curious
Yea you gotta do it. Because when you install new brake ads they are thicker. So the electronic parking brake needs to relearn its distance from engagement and disengagement. Also I know people hating using the parking brake but when you don't and your on a incline you put alot of atress on the parking gear detent on the transmission. I know its super rare but sometimes it brakes and the vehicle wil come out of park. Super rare. Have a good one and goodluck brother.
@@MyHomeGarage indeed
When putting on the hardware, you must note that those clips are sided.
Awesome video, do the t55 bolts not need to be torqued?
Yes but they should be replaced every time there removed according to manual so technically what is the torque spec on a used bolt I do not know the value. Make sense?
First one to comment on this. Nice video. I will follow these proper steps. You put anti-size under each hardware. I think normal lube would work too to prevent corrosion under there? But i think the lube on pads should be something that resists high temp. The pads get real hot. High temp lube can prevent smoke, burnt smell, I think. Thanks for putting this w
Video out there.
What do I know? Lol 15 years platinum certified former Honda technician. I used to work in the northern town that had tons of snow and salt. The corrosion was insane. Thats why I think I just do that level on all cars now. Thanks for watching hope it's useful. More videos coming of course.
@@MyHomeGarage Question....there's a lot of noise out there that purple brake lubricant is no bueno. I used Green Permatex. Is there any validity to purple vs green or is it just internet glop?
M77 is traditionally what I use. It’s a grey thick grease used by Honda for brake components. It is designed for brake hardware. Try and not be so liberal with grease or paste because the more you put on the more dirt is attracted and sticks to paste.
Internet nonsense. Bosch pads supply green I find it it has the consistency of wheel bearing grease. The grey stuff like oem Honda M77 is super thick and water repellent. I know because of 15 years I worked there. I prefer the m77 contact points only. Every manufacturer has there preference for pad lube and piston to pad contact areas. Whatever you like trust me no actual difference in your life
Are those bolts reusable
Technically no. But I don’t see an issue. No one ever changes them lol.
Well Done!
Great video! Thanks!
I have the same vehicle in my shop that I'm about to work on. customer got metal on metal, both calipers are seized. 2 questions tho: 1) No need to disconnect battery? I saw conflicting videos. 2) no need to bleed them? mind you there's no brake fluid because there rear caliper piston popped and leaked out.
I don't believe the battery disconnection is nessessary. No need to bleed the brakes unless you want. The parking brake side is mechanical not hydraulic.
Sorry if the calipers are seized then yes you would need to bleed the braking system. Just like traditional brakes.
@@MyHomeGarage so after I put everything together, I pour brake fluid, put the car on run position and just step on the brake to re-engage the electric brake or do I re-engage from the menu then press down on the brake pedal and start bleeding?
Do the bleeding procedure before you re engage
Solid!
I replaced the back pads & when I went back in to computer to put e brake back on it said park brake needs service. It locked the e brake. How can I manually release it? I’m stuck in my garage. Thank you.
I'm not sure. I believe you can manually retract the packing break by taking the cover off the parking brake actuator and then screwing or unscrewing the piston.
@@MyHomeGarage Thanks!
@@MyHomeGarage I found this video & it worked. Thank you anyways.
ua-cam.com/video/l9iQ-98RNG4/v-deo.html