Great video and very professionally done. My only piece of information to add is that it's damn near impossible to remove the rotor bolt with just a 5mm allen key. I basically stripped the bolt trying to use an allen key to take it out. According to Jeep forums you need a Torx T30 adapter to get that rotor bolt out, preferably with a breaker bar since the rust really makes it seize up. Other than that, this video helped a lot. I was going crazy trying to find a E20 bit for the caliper adapter bolts, the 5/8 bit you suggested worked perfectly! Thanks again.
paid $300 for front brakes and rotors recently. i thought it was a pretty decent deal so had them check back as well because i was planning on paying 600+ for just the front. probably have another good 40k+ on back brakes i think. probably will change them out when i get new tires. $1200 is crazy but that's dealership prices. oil change on my dads ram is $180 at the dealership and also asinine. i put a blend in my trailhawk for $45 from the same shop that did my brakes. 119k miles on my trailhawk.
At a dealership, you deal with salesmen or advisors, they get a % of what they can get you to buy, labour is 160$ an hour(mechanic gets paid maybe 30$ of that an hour) then they get parts at cost but have to up the price and basically increase it as much as they want, in the end you pay 1200$ for a 3-400$ job, it's just the time and knowledge that comes into play when it's diy. @@basics1
My best way to push the piston back is I use the old brake pads and put them together and then I use a C clamp and they make it easy to push the piston back.
From what I've heard it's significantly less common nowadays to get used rotors worked up. I don't know enough about it to give you a good answer unfortunately
I do mine today and i see your clip late !! Have the e24 and i dont know i found the info but is e20 !! I do same as you but clean the rust before rotor to be perfect sit
Good video. I would have cleaned caliper, anchor and painted prior to assembling with new parts. Proper torque is needed on the bolts, you should hit correct values on caliper bolts, anchors and wheel nuts .... over torque is almost as bad as undertorque. Verify master cylinder fluid has correct amount of fluid is also needed. Thanks for posting, always nice to watch someone do the job before trying it yourself the first time.
To push the caliper pistons back in? No keep the reservoir closed. If you open it, air can seep back in to the master cylinder and then you’re gonna have bleed all 4 calipers if too much gets in. Keep it closed, basically what you are doing is pushing the fluid that is already in the system just back into the reservoir to free up the pressure to allow the pistons to be recessed.
@@RatchetWrenches That is what i thought. I see a lot of people still opening the master cylinder but i dont see where it is needed if you can push them in anyway. Thanks for your replies lately.
This is wrong. Id rather have fluid spill out,, than a busted brake line. Removing the cap allows the pistons to depress with less torque. Also, fluid will often leak out even with the cap on. The only time air will enter your system is if the master cylinder reservoir is complelty dry.
I have a 2017 Jeep Cherokee latitude v6. I’m due for a rotor and pad replacement. Every site is giving me a kit that has vented brake pads when my car currently has vented front and solid rear pads. Would I be fine buying a new rotor and pad kit with vented rear and front?
if you smack outward on the rotor to get it off instead of hitting it into the hub you lower the risk of damaging the front hub. And they only put the bolt in the rotor to keep it on during the building process after that its useless so you dont need to put it back in I use to install that part at the factory for that reason only .
Do the mounting bracket bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I have read in some forums that the bolts need to be replaced if you remove the mounting bracket to replace the rotor
When i collapse the caliper I use a C clamp or vise grip c clamps pushing against a old brake pad so both pistons go in at the same time . The tool your using is to turn the rear caliper bolts back in as they turn in. The calip[er piston should never pop out lol And when you push the pedal to build up the pressure never push to the floor you can damage the proportion valve
@@Racc506 only if its electric brakes will that setup work through your settings on the radio. .. If the rear brakes are not electric you have to do it manually.
Do the mounting bracket bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I have read in some forums that the bolts need to be replaced if you remove the mounting bracket to replace the rotor
Honestly really up to you on what you’re willing to spend! I know powerstop is the middle of the road brand and fair in price yet yields good results! We run powerstop on most of our cars!
@@RatchetWrenches Based on your video. Front brakes has dual piston right?! Is it correct that dual piston rotor size is 330mm on front and 320mm on rear right?
Correct. Dual piston front have the larger 12.6" rear rotor. The Cherokee here is code brg with HD brakes. The HD is the front pads with that front spring clip. Regular dual piston pads do not have that spring clip.
Yeah unfortunately it won’t be the same procedure but I’m sure it’s very similar! Most brake jobs are relatively the same for standard setups unless you have sport brake calipers etc!
Guess I’ll share my bit. I used to work for Les Schwab and they were highly into selling as much product as possible. The lady only needed a flat repair and was on her way to a wedding - to be a bridesmaid - and she was in her dress. She needed brakes but not THAT badly. My manager convinced me to sell her brakes and said we could get it turned around in under an hour (which is possible I can do 40 minute pads, calipers, rotors, bleed n flush. Not hard and she needed all of it). Except this fucking vehicle was a Jeep of some sort (it was 2015 I don’t remember) and the front rotors could only be removed through the removal of the hub assembly - which upon inspection was completely shot, and we did not have the hub assembly on hand - so we had to order one. On top of that you had to disassemble the entire control arm to remove the hub assembly Long story short - I was not qualified to be working on this. And I let my manager pressure me into making a sale which while necessary, was not appropriate to make given the woman’s schedule. Because the vehicle could not be reassembled without functional parts, and the sheer amount of time it took for the parts to arrive, what started as a 15 minute flat repair turned into a 9 hour brake job which we stayed open for late, she missed the wedding, and we comped her the whole thing. I learned a very valuable lesson that day and it’s the only job I did in my 2 years that I’m truly ashamed of.
i gotta ask why didnt you use the brake service software from the infotainment ? in my compass trailhawk i have an option to retract the brakes does that not retract the piston all the way or is it only for teh rear brakes?
You can do it that way if equipped! Not all models have the electronic parking brake system. If yours is equipped with that you can do that but it’s not really for the rear brakes only the parking brake
Just did my rear brakes this afternoon. I used the brake service mode to retract the emergency brake. I also disconnect the battery after entering service mode. This enables the brake caliper to be retracted by simply pushing on it, you don’t need a special tool. This step isn’t necessary when working on the front brakes.
My only concern is when you push the pistons back into the caliper. You did not have the bleeder open therefore any contamination There might have been.you have pushed back into the system.
It is too hard to put those spreader springs back on. I put them on and the brake pads pop out. Too much spring. I guess I have to not install them. I even tried to clamp the pads in place, to put in the springs, but as soon as I unclamp, a pad shoots out.
Should be the same or similar, being in the industry as a tech I’ve worked on many many cars and the only thing that’s most likely different is the way to retract the EPB you’ll need a scan tool or some have the option to release it in the radio display screen. But as for the process of replacing the brakes it’s the same
Great video and very professionally done. My only piece of information to add is that it's damn near impossible to remove the rotor bolt with just a 5mm allen key. I basically stripped the bolt trying to use an allen key to take it out. According to Jeep forums you need a Torx T30 adapter to get that rotor bolt out, preferably with a breaker bar since the rust really makes it seize up.
Other than that, this video helped a lot. I was going crazy trying to find a E20 bit for the caliper adapter bolts, the 5/8 bit you suggested worked perfectly! Thanks again.
Thanks guys! I appreciate you time. That dealership would have charged me $1200 for parts and labor.
You're welcome glad we could he helpful. Yeah they definitely charge an arm and a leg for a job like this
paid $300 for front brakes and rotors recently. i thought it was a pretty decent deal so had them check back as well because i was planning on paying 600+ for just the front. probably have another good 40k+ on back brakes i think. probably will change them out when i get new tires.
$1200 is crazy but that's dealership prices. oil change on my dads ram is $180 at the dealership and also asinine. i put a blend in my trailhawk for $45 from the same shop that did my brakes. 119k miles on my trailhawk.
At a dealership, you deal with salesmen or advisors, they get a % of what they can get you to buy, labour is 160$ an hour(mechanic gets paid maybe 30$ of that an hour) then they get parts at cost but have to up the price and basically increase it as much as they want, in the end you pay 1200$ for a 3-400$ job, it's just the time and knowledge that comes into play when it's diy. @@basics1
My best way to push the piston back is I use the old brake pads and put them together and then I use a C clamp and they make it easy to push the piston back.
And push them in slowly
Great job !!! Thanks for the birthday gift ☺️ sooo much better driving now
Glad we can help and give ya a nice birthday gift!
make a video about changing coolant (draining coolant), alternator, serpentine belt, etc
Great video- thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Good shiz “” those rotors look cool af”
They definitely are cool and functional also!
You think its better to get your warped rotors turned or just new upgraded ones?
From what I've heard it's significantly less common nowadays to get used rotors worked up. I don't know enough about it to give you a good answer unfortunately
I do mine today and i see your clip late !! Have the e24 and i dont know i found the info but is e20 !! I do same as you but clean the rust before rotor to be perfect sit
Nice video, big upgrade
Yes it was a big upgrade! Much better stopping power
Awesome video! Glad i came across this! Where did you place your floor jack and jack stand on?
Thanks! And I’m pretty sure we put the jack stand on the pinch weld and the floor jack on the frame somewhere as extra support
What about the spreader springs?? Do you replace or discard
Good video. I would have cleaned caliper, anchor and painted prior to assembling with new parts. Proper torque is needed on the bolts, you should hit correct values on caliper bolts, anchors and wheel nuts .... over torque is almost as bad as undertorque. Verify master cylinder fluid has correct amount of fluid is also needed. Thanks for posting, always nice to watch someone do the job before trying it yourself the first time.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed and yes, it is always nice to watch a video before you tackle a job yourself
Did you have to open the master cylinder first when using this tool?
To push the caliper pistons back in? No keep the reservoir closed. If you open it, air can seep back in to the master cylinder and then you’re gonna have bleed all 4 calipers if too much gets in. Keep it closed, basically what you are doing is pushing the fluid that is already in the system just back into the reservoir to free up the pressure to allow the pistons to be recessed.
@@RatchetWrenches That is what i thought. I see a lot of people still opening the master cylinder but i dont see where it is needed if you can push them in anyway. Thanks for your replies lately.
Jeremy Dohner yeah of course, Our pleasure!
This is wrong. Id rather have fluid spill out,, than a busted brake line. Removing the cap allows the pistons to depress with less torque. Also, fluid will often leak out even with the cap on. The only time air will enter your system is if the master cylinder reservoir is complelty dry.
I have a 2017 Jeep Cherokee latitude v6. I’m due for a rotor and pad replacement. Every site is giving me a kit that has vented brake pads when my car currently has vented front and solid rear pads. Would I be fine buying a new rotor and pad kit with vented rear and front?
if you smack outward on the rotor to get it off instead of hitting it into the hub you lower the risk of damaging the front hub. And they only put the bolt in the rotor to keep it on during the building process after that its useless so you dont need to put it back in I use to install that part at the factory for that reason only .
Should put some antiseize on the hub before install the new rotor....
Single piston would fit?
Aren't those caliper bracket bolt's 1-time use torque to yield?
No they’re not. Usually most bolts that are torque to yield are subframe,some on the block and some related to the suspension
Do the mounting bracket bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I have read in some forums that the bolts need to be replaced if you remove the mounting bracket to replace the rotor
When i collapse the caliper I use a C clamp or vise grip c clamps pushing against a old brake pad so both pistons go in at the same time . The tool your using is to turn the rear caliper bolts back in as they turn in. The calip[er piston should never pop out lol And when you push the pedal to build up the pressure never push to the floor you can damage the proportion valve
Yea that's what I thought. Both pistons should move in conjunction with another not independent
@@Nick912OK the pressure has to go somewhere to the least resistance.. like the other piston if its not under pressure. lol
You don’t need to use a tool on the jeep it has a service mode in the settings menu that retracts the pistons
@@Racc506 only if its electric brakes will that setup work through your settings on the radio. .. If the rear brakes are not electric you have to do it manually.
@@skipwilliam5639 yes but for the most part they are standard with electric brakes I’ve not seen one yet without
Do the mounting bracket bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I have read in some forums that the bolts need to be replaced if you remove the mounting bracket to replace the rotor
I've never heard of a brake caliper bracket bolt TTY. Reuse them
Any recommendation brand for front and back?! I heard few like bosch, powerstop, raybestos, brembo?
Honestly really up to you on what you’re willing to spend! I know powerstop is the middle of the road brand and fair in price yet yields good results! We run powerstop on most of our cars!
@@RatchetWrenches Based on your video. Front brakes has dual piston right?! Is it correct that dual piston rotor size is 330mm on front and 320mm on rear right?
Correct. Dual piston front have the larger 12.6" rear rotor. The Cherokee here is code brg with HD brakes. The HD is the front pads with that front spring clip. Regular dual piston pads do not have that spring clip.
Safe to assume this video will not be accurate for the 2020 JGC, since the video says 2014-2018?
Yeah unfortunately it won’t be the same procedure but I’m sure it’s very similar! Most brake jobs are relatively the same for standard setups unless you have sport brake calipers etc!
What type of paint did you use to spray your calipers?
Just some high temp rattle can from autozone
Nice, I hang the caliper with a coat hanger.
Whatever works! Haha that’s cool though
Zip tie
Mini sledge is how I role with that 😂
Mini sledges are the shit!
Guess I’ll share my bit. I used to work for Les Schwab and they were highly into selling as much product as possible. The lady only needed a flat repair and was on her way to a wedding - to be a bridesmaid - and she was in her dress.
She needed brakes but not THAT badly.
My manager convinced me to sell her brakes and said we could get it turned around in under an hour (which is possible I can do 40 minute pads, calipers, rotors, bleed n flush. Not hard and she needed all of it).
Except this fucking vehicle was a Jeep of some sort (it was 2015 I don’t remember) and the front rotors could only be removed through the removal of the hub assembly - which upon inspection was completely shot, and we did not have the hub assembly on hand - so we had to order one. On top of that you had to disassemble the entire control arm to remove the hub assembly
Long story short - I was not qualified to be working on this. And I let my manager pressure me into making a sale which while necessary, was not appropriate to make given the woman’s schedule.
Because the vehicle could not be reassembled without functional parts, and the sheer amount of time it took for the parts to arrive, what started as a 15 minute flat repair turned into a 9 hour brake job which we stayed open for late, she missed the wedding, and we comped her the whole thing.
I learned a very valuable lesson that day and it’s the only job I did in my 2 years that I’m truly ashamed of.
My 2016 Cherokee Trailhawk has caliper pistons that have to be turned or spun in, you'd can't compress them with the tool.
Did you reuse or replace the e20 bolts?
We Reused them
@@RatchetWrenches Nice. TY
Did you reuse the bracket bolts? Aren't they torque to yield?
No you can reuse them
i gotta ask why didnt you use the brake service software from the infotainment ? in my compass trailhawk i have an option to retract the brakes does that not retract the piston all the way or is it only for teh rear brakes?
i only ask because i was interested in doing my brakes and rotors soon
You can do it that way if equipped! Not all models have the electronic parking brake system. If yours is equipped with that you can do that but it’s not really for the rear brakes only the parking brake
Just did my rear brakes this afternoon. I used the brake service mode to retract the emergency brake. I also disconnect the battery after entering service mode. This enables the brake caliper to be retracted by simply pushing on it, you don’t need a special tool.
This step isn’t necessary when working on the front brakes.
My only concern is when you push the pistons back into the caliper. You did not have the bleeder open therefore any contamination There might have been.you have pushed back into the system.
Did the pads have holes to attach the spring clip?
Yes the utilize the factory specs to allow use of the retaining/anti rattle springs
Thanks Bam
You're welcome 🤘🏽
Is the rear calipers the same?
Same what? Same procedure? Same size? Same pads?
where did you buy these rotors? do they have offer other makes
I bought them on Autoanything.com and yes they offer many kits to different vehicles!
It is too hard to put those spreader springs back on. I put them on and the brake pads pop out. Too much spring. I guess I have to not install them. I even tried to clamp the pads in place, to put in the springs, but as soon as I unclamp, a pad shoots out.
Anyone followed these instructions for a 2020? Just curious how different it is.
Should be the same or similar, being in the industry as a tech I’ve worked on many many cars and the only thing that’s most likely different is the way to retract the EPB you’ll need a scan tool or some have the option to release it in the radio display screen. But as for the process of replacing the brakes it’s the same
They suck in northern climates..they grow rust faster than weeds just after 1 night. Leave it a month and they are ruined.
Haha yeah its inevitable unfortunately just the way it is up here!
damn the tires look worn af
Haha yah they were. We replaced them shortly after this video with BF Goodrich KO4’s
Look too easy
It’s definitely on the easier side
Did you replace the spreader springs or discard them
Replace, the kit comes with them. You can discard them but it’s not hard to put them on so why not ya know?