been watching a couple of videos, building up the courage to do it myself. your video, sir, is well explained. Good job, good explaining, pretty easy to understand. Thanks for the futur help!
I’ve seen a video when compressing the pistons the guy took half of the brake fluid out so it didn’t overflow when compressing . So this step is not necessary? I noticed you did not.
The brake fluid should never be topped up or added it is a sealed system. If you never touch your brake fluid and it will go down as the pads wear out when you compress piston the fluid should technically only fill up to the point when all the brakes were new. But to be careful it is advised that you take cap off and extract some fluid as needed while compressing piston
I have an '18 Cherokee Trailhawk and when replacing the front pads and rotors I had the hardest time getting the pads to fit in the caliper bracket. This was the first time they were ever replaced (pads and rotors) and the wear pattern was "interesting" (inner pad, like yours, was worn out while the outer pad had a lot of life left). No sliders were sticking though. The inside of the rotor looked like only the center 1/3 was contacting the pad. I ended up really working 3 of the 4 front pads eventually getting them to seat properly but the 4th one I had to file the ears a bit on the metal part of the pad. I have no idea what was going on but it was really fighting me. Any ideas what was going on?
Do the mounting bracket bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I have read in some forums that the bolts need to be replaced if you remove the mounting bracket to replace the rotor
No point. The bolts are 1 time use. But I am not going to buy bolts for brakes. So when I tighten I just have a good feel for tight because the actual torque is meant for new bolts...hope that answers your question.
1 side has a indicator for wear other side just is. my opinion is the can manufacture 4 pads that are the same and then you add clips. Most cars have the wear indicator built in to thr pad itself. Jeep chooses to have you put these clips in. You must add them or thr pads will rattle from too much play.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
My video would have been 2 hours long, but it's done! Thank you
been watching a couple of videos, building up the courage to do it myself. your video, sir, is well explained. Good job, good explaining, pretty easy to understand. Thanks for the futur help!
I'm glad I could help. Take your time. You'll be ok.
Nice Job!!!
FreddieB (MA)
I’ve seen a video when compressing the pistons the guy took half of the brake fluid out so it didn’t overflow when compressing . So this step is not necessary? I noticed you did not.
The brake fluid should never be topped up or added it is a sealed system. If you never touch your brake fluid and it will go down as the pads wear out when you compress piston the fluid should technically only fill up to the point when all the brakes were new. But to be careful it is advised that you take cap off and extract some fluid as needed while compressing piston
May I ask what Brake code did you get for Bosch Brand of front Pads? Is it BE1640H (BRF) or BE1709H (BRG)?
I have an '18 Cherokee Trailhawk and when replacing the front pads and rotors I had the hardest time getting the pads to fit in the caliper bracket. This was the first time they were ever replaced (pads and rotors) and the wear pattern was "interesting" (inner pad, like yours, was worn out while the outer pad had a lot of life left). No sliders were sticking though. The inside of the rotor looked like only the center 1/3 was contacting the pad.
I ended up really working 3 of the 4 front pads eventually getting them to seat properly but the 4th one I had to file the ears a bit on the metal part of the pad. I have no idea what was going on but it was really fighting me. Any ideas what was going on?
Do the mounting bracket bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? I have read in some forums that the bolts need to be replaced if you remove the mounting bracket to replace the rotor
No torque wrench?
No point. The bolts are 1 time use. But I am not going to buy bolts for brakes. So when I tighten I just have a good feel for tight because the actual torque is meant for new bolts...hope that answers your question.
@@MyHomeGarageare you reusing the bolts?
@@josegerardohuescamorales2808 100%%%%
@@MyHomeGarage thanks, I like the video
@@MyHomeGarageDid you use Loctite and if you did, what color blue or red?
What is the point of the little clips you put on the brakes?
1 side has a indicator for wear other side just is. my opinion is the can manufacture 4 pads that are the same and then you add clips. Most cars have the wear indicator built in to thr pad itself. Jeep chooses to have you put these clips in. You must add them or thr pads will rattle from too much play.
Are the shims/ springs needed?
Of course. Make sure it is all back together property.
@@MyHomeGarage what if new brakes didn't come with them?
@@venomgoku713 you can buy hardware kits seperate.
Rear brakes? Make a video on those too
Haha. I am editing it as well speak. Sunday it will be out. Subscribe you'll get a notification.
ua-cam.com/video/YQbW5rjhVDA/v-deo.html enjoy
What would you recommend for cleaning rims like these.
Rim cleaner like Adams. Or any iron fall out remover. Spray scrub rinse
Also front rotors are bigger. Rear is smaller.
Yes this one actually has 300mm rear rotors so almost as big as front.