For everyone who was in my situation, the back piston not pushing in. Do the service mode, unplug the battery, push the caliper in (should be with ease) put everything back together. Good video, dude just doesn't show him pushing the caliper piston in
If you live in the rust belt, you'll want to remove the caliper brackets and grind off the rust that's under the shims. The one I'm working on was metal to metal on one side and about half worn on the other side due to pads sticking because of the rust build up.
I have the same vehicle, but I don't have the option on the settings to put the parking brake on service mode. Any ideas how this is done? Can I still attemp to retract the piston with this tool?
This is a 2014 Sport FWD version sold in Canada (as we live in Calgary). I didn't had other option to take it to the dealer and they performed the brake pads change as they told me that this model didn't had that option and it can only be done using a high level (sofisticate) scanner that only mechanic shops have.
I noticed that they re-used the caliper bolt. These cannot be re-used due to the fact that those bolts are single use "torque to yield bolts". Before starting the brake job you need to purchase brand new caliper bolts which are "torque to yield" type from your local dealer or another certified source.
Stretch bolts with only 32ftlbs of torque? Ive never heard of such a thing. Also why would the slide pins stretching effect how the brakes work when the pin they bolt into... SLIDES. So even if the bolt is allowing the caliper to be too far in or out because it's stretched, the sliding pin would take up that 1/32 of an inch slack. This was a comment that seemed intelligent until you actually think about it.
Do more research. The caliper bolts are not torque to yield. It's the caliper bracket bolts that are torque to yield but most people reuse them anyway with no issues. Couple drops of blue thread locker won't hurt if you're really that paranoid about it. You absolutely do not need to purchase any bolts to do a brake job on a Jeep Cherokee.
This video does not show ALL the proper steps. This video only shows how to replace the pads like a shade tree job. The pins with rubber boot protectors in the caliper bracket must be removed and cleaned and re lubed with brake lubricant to have proper and even brake pad wear. Furthermore every time i replace pads i clean and replace the metal bake pad shims. Aswell as machine or turn the rotors on a lathe to get maximum life span from the brakes and pads. Also good idea to flush or bleed out the fluid every few years to keep the brakes working and clean fluid in the system. Ive been wrenching since 2004 full time. Good video just needs alot more info and steps otherwise these brakes will surely fail sooner than later. ✔️
No. Brake fluid level is supposed to be used to tell you how low your pads are getting. But for some reason, techs & DIYers top it off which then spills out when you compress the piston
Absolutely not. As a mechanic for over 20 years I would highly recommend no one open the brake fluid system unless absolutely necessary. Taking the risk of getting air in the system just to avoid spilling a little bit is monumentally stupid in my opinion. That would be like popping the oil pan off to do an oil change instead of just using the drain plug. Why take the chance of introducing air and dirt into a sealed system when there are plenty of rags and paper towels in the world. If you're that paranoid wrap one around the master cylinder before you compress the pistons.
The previous two responses are worthless. Let me help you...... The rear caliper pistons can be pressed in just like front pistons. They do not require that tool that turns the piston in...... You do still have to compress the rear pistons when doing the brakes. Putting the emergency brake in service mode does not compress the piston.
Demonstrating a pad slap and calling it brake replacement is exactly why I will never own a Haynes manual. Replacing the pads without at least resurfacing the rotor if not replacing it is the equivalent of doing an oil change without changing the oil filter. You're just asking for problems.
This is the absolute cheapest and worst way to do a brake job. You should never ever ever put new brake pads on a rotor that isn't new or hasn't been resurfaced. There's a good chance you'll have uneven wear or break squeal or both. This is what us mechanics call a pad slap. Kind of pathetic that a company that makes repair manuals would suggest you do a pad slap. This is the equivalent of doing an oil change without changing the filter.
What if you need to replace the rotors? What do you do when you're all done with pads and rotors and after taking the computer back out of service mode, you get code C10d0-53 but everything works as it should, but you can't clear the code because of the SGW module???
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For everyone who was in my situation, the back piston not pushing in. Do the service mode, unplug the battery, push the caliper in (should be with ease) put everything back together. Good video, dude just doesn't show him pushing the caliper piston in
C clamp
Thanks for the tip. It works.
They forgot the hydraulic side of the system. Thanks for confirming.
Trying to change my 2015 jeep cherokee rear brake pads. There's no option for brakes to select in my settings..help
Thanks for a great video ,just wished you changed the rotors too for information ,
Thank you, feel more confident going into this than I thought at first.
If you live in the rust belt, you'll want to remove the caliper brackets and grind off the rust that's under the shims. The one I'm working on was metal to metal on one side and about half worn on the other side due to pads sticking because of the rust build up.
Excellent video.
Did you meed to input the radio code after unplugging the battery?
What about trims like Longtitude which doesn’t have a screen menu for brake service?
Ya ln Apps screen
Thanks for the video
reinforced frame area? How come my jeep manual doesn't state this! I used to jack up from those spots anyway
I have the same vehicle, but I don't have the option on the settings to put the parking brake on service mode. Any ideas how this is done? Can I still attemp to retract the piston with this tool?
@@alexaltamirano5797 what year is yours
This is a 2014 Sport FWD version sold in Canada (as we live in Calgary). I didn't had other option to take it to the dealer and they performed the brake pads change as they told me that this model didn't had that option and it can only be done using a high level (sofisticate) scanner that only mechanic shops have.
What types of brake pads and rotors are recommended for a Jeep Cherokee 19?
Ceramic
I noticed that they re-used the caliper bolt. These cannot be re-used due to the fact that those bolts are single use "torque to yield bolts". Before starting the brake job you need to purchase brand new caliper bolts which are "torque to yield" type from your local dealer or another certified source.
Stretch bolts with only 32ftlbs of torque? Ive never heard of such a thing. Also why would the slide pins stretching effect how the brakes work when the pin they bolt into... SLIDES. So even if the bolt is allowing the caliper to be too far in or out because it's stretched, the sliding pin would take up that 1/32 of an inch slack. This was a comment that seemed intelligent until you actually think about it.
Do more research. The caliper bolts are not torque to yield. It's the caliper bracket bolts that are torque to yield but most people reuse them anyway with no issues. Couple drops of blue thread locker won't hurt if you're really that paranoid about it. You absolutely do not need to purchase any bolts to do a brake job on a Jeep Cherokee.
Perfect instructions good job👍
when we did the front we didnt remove the battery cables
Didn't have to for the front
This video does not show ALL the proper steps. This video only shows how to replace the pads like a shade tree job. The pins with rubber boot protectors in the caliper bracket must be removed and cleaned and re lubed with brake lubricant to have proper and even brake pad wear. Furthermore every time i replace pads i clean and replace the metal bake pad shims. Aswell as machine or turn the rotors on a lathe to get maximum life span from the brakes and pads. Also good idea to flush or bleed out the fluid every few years to keep the brakes working and clean fluid in the system. Ive been wrenching since 2004 full time. Good video just needs alot more info and steps otherwise these brakes will surely fail sooner than later. ✔️
Question when i put service mode is saying not save try again what should i do?. Please help
How did it turn out
Is it a must to drain the brake fluid?
No. Brake fluid level is supposed to be used to tell you how low your pads are getting. But for some reason, techs & DIYers top it off which then spills out when you compress the piston
Only if it's NOT Clear and CLEAN
Absolutely not. As a mechanic for over 20 years I would highly recommend no one open the brake fluid system unless absolutely necessary. Taking the risk of getting air in the system just to avoid spilling a little bit is monumentally stupid in my opinion. That would be like popping the oil pan off to do an oil change instead of just using the drain plug. Why take the chance of introducing air and dirt into a sealed system when there are plenty of rags and paper towels in the world. If you're that paranoid wrap one around the master cylinder before you compress the pistons.
So you don't have to manually turn the rear brake piston in?
No. Just follow this video.
Yes you do it allows you to ow
NO. These can be pushed back with YOUR BARE FINGERS, if it's actually IN SERVICE MODE.
The previous two responses are worthless. Let me help you...... The rear caliper pistons can be pressed in just like front pistons. They do not require that tool that turns the piston in...... You do still have to compress the rear pistons when doing the brakes. Putting the emergency brake in service mode does not compress the piston.
this video ignores the fact that you still must push the piston back into the caliper before you can install it
That’s what the electronic break reset does for the rear caliper.
@@Rynotastic nope i have to depress i still
Common sense
Once in SERVICE MODE you can push the pistons back with your bare hands....no tool needed. (If it's not junk or damaged)
Also the video ignores that some models, if not all that are listed… the battery is located under the front passenger seat and NOT under the hood
Piston, piston, piston....?
C clamp, c clamp, c clamp.
Demonstrating a pad slap and calling it brake replacement is exactly why I will never own a Haynes manual. Replacing the pads without at least resurfacing the rotor if not replacing it is the equivalent of doing an oil change without changing the oil filter. You're just asking for problems.
This is the absolute cheapest and worst way to do a brake job. You should never ever ever put new brake pads on a rotor that isn't new or hasn't been resurfaced. There's a good chance you'll have uneven wear or break squeal or both. This is what us mechanics call a pad slap. Kind of pathetic that a company that makes repair manuals would suggest you do a pad slap. This is the equivalent of doing an oil change without changing the filter.
What if you need to replace the rotors?
What do you do when you're all done with pads and rotors and after taking the computer back out of service mode, you get code C10d0-53 but everything works as it should, but you can't clear the code because of the SGW module???