How to replace REAR brakes and rotors on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (11-18) - full details
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- Note: You will need a 7mm hex for the caliper hold down bolts, and a 18mm socket for the caliper mounting bracket.
Quick video to show you the full process or replacing brakes and rotors on a Jeep Grand Cherokee. - Навчання та стиль
Very detailed without trying to put on a show. Thanks for the video and being professional.
Thank you
Fun Fact: That Rubber O ring is only on there for when the jeep is being assembled in the Factory so it can go down the line without falling off, You cant even buy a replacement if you lose or break one, So don't worry if you don't have one or you lose one in the process, Also i would recommend to just replace the caliper bolts as they are cheap to replace
👍 thanks for sharing
Did rotors and pads all around using both of your videos. Well done brother. Super easy. You did a great job. Thanks!
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Me too 🤘🏼
Best video on this topic/task. Detailed description. Super easy to follow. Saved $250 in labor costs!
Thanks 👊
Excellent video!! Thank you so much for clear directions and no in between BS!!
thanks. you got it. thats my goal every time
Good video and straight to the point. Getting ready to do the rear’s on my 2015 and this vid helps.
Gregory Murphy I’m glad. Thanks
Legit one of the best tutorials I've seen. Thanks!
Appreciate that 👊
That was very detail! Thanks alot!!! I'm changing my wife brakes and rotors tomorrow..
enjoy!
Just finished the job, and this helped me a ton. Thank you!
Awesome 👍👊
This was the best video of them all Nice and simple..AND you told us the bolt sizes ..THANK YOU
Thanks 👊👍
This helped me a lot as a first timer
Awesome video, helped me out doing my rear brakes yesterday..
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good stuff! replaced my front rotors and brakes for the first time ever and about to do the rear this weekend !! saving alot of money bc of you !!
Nice 👊
Very helpful video. Thanks to you I can fix mine myself
Nice. Have fun
This is the best video on doing rear brakes on the 2016 jeep gran Cherokee. Helped me do it myself and save money 🎉❤
Glad to hear. Enjoy the project 👍👊
Thank you, changing my rear brakes today.
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Thank you very much! Great video! Made the job sooooo easy!!!
glad to help
Great informative video, thanks for going step by step.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for an excellent how-to video👍👍
Thanks 👊
Great video! You explained everything perfect
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Excellent instructional video! Thanks.
Thanks 👊👍
Thank you so much. Your video was very helpful.
Thanks 👍👊
Thank you so much, perfect video
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Excellent video, thanks!
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Thanks! Very detailed!
thank you
great video man keep it up, thanks
Thanks 👊
Well done. Very helpful.
Thanks
Great job!. Subscribed 👏🏼
thank you!
Videos a life and money saver, you da man
Thanks 👍👊
@@HowToWithLech thank you man, without you I’d be 1,400 in the hole
Well done! Thank you.
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Nice and clear. Thanks. Would like to see torque wrench and thread lock use, just for perfection.
i do agree. maybe next one :)
Super great video thanks brother..👍💯🙏
Thank you 👊
Great video! Thank you
thanks
Thanks!! I think I can actually do this myself now. I’m at 96,000mi with the original pads and the lowest one is about 1/8” thick. I think I’ll just go ahead and do everything now and be done.
wow. you got a lot of miles on those pads. must be a calm driver. good stuff, and have fun with the job
@@HowToWithLech I didn't think so, but maybe I'm getting calm in my old age! I think the OEM pads were ceramic, but I can't tell for sure. I think I'll go that route.
Great video. Thank you
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Thanks for the Video!!! Just did my back brakes and everything worked out great. No issues at all. The lower caliper bolt is kind of tough to fit a bit and ratchet in there without hitting the lower swing arm, but it worked out fine!
sweet!
That’s the problem I’ve having now. How did you manage to get it off?
Lol after a hour or so I took a box wrench on the end of the 7mm right before the ratchet opening and was able to turn the bolt out. It took a while but I got the job done. Thanks for this upload.
@@Spacesprocketz I used a 3/8” ratchet and a shorty driver bit and it was still tight
You just saved me 500 bucks thx.🙂
Yes. Sweet 👊
Suggest you check parking brake before removal and adjust as needed once rotor is off.
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Well done
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Just did my fronts and if you do not have 11mm Allen head socket you can just remove the caliper bracket with the caliper in one piece
Is your name Jack? Because you are JACKED
Hahah thanks.
Nice video. Alway breaker bar vs a hammer to take off the tight nuts. :)
Agreed. Finally got one 👍
Does the clip indicator mater? On the out side
The clips will only go on one way I believe.
Thanks
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What size rotors 330 or 350? I have a 2014 3.6 Limited AWD...I assume 330.
I’ll have to check. But should just shop for your model. Sellers should have it listed
You're a f****** superher! My man!.
👍👍thanks
Right... I also made the mistake of not taking a close look at my emergency brakes when doing the brakes on my F-350.
Then my son was getting married and asked me to bring the rented benches all the guests would be sitting on during the ceremony some 130 miles out to the ocean and... yep, my e-brake system fell apart from the dust shield in on the left side.
I had to rent a U-Haul to accomplish the bench mission for a cool $750 bucks and then go back in and replace all that bull shit.
The moral of the story is, take a close look at your e-brakes even if you don't use them. Make sure everything is working well and gets lubricant where they need it before you just slap the rotor back over them.
Sucks. 👍. Thanks for sharing
Just an FYI, don't use thread locker on any caliper bolts. If anything, use anti seize or light grease to remove next change. Proper torque spec will prevent them from coming loose. Also....lube your slide bolts to prevent uneven brake wear. Good video otherwise!!🤘
Completely agree 👍
12:06 it can go either way
“affect its performance”
“fuck it’s performance”
lmao
😂
You saved me a headache
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Thanks bro
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My car didn’t have the little rubber seals and so I went to my local keep dealership to buy some and they said the only way to get them is to buy the entire wheel hub assembly 😂😂😂
Junk yard, but I doubt those little rubber seals are doing anything important anyway
It's not a do or die needed part. When the wheel is installed and lug nuts are torqued, the rotor is locked in also.
@@lou704 exactly, I was trying to do it “right” but it wasn’t worth the trouble
That’s crazy.
The pads were worn right down on one side which indicated a seized caliper slider (s).. But you didn't clean them up? Only added an artists brush if grease. You didn't advise if you fitted coated discs which would prevent corrosion from the non contact areas.
You didn't properly prep the discs or the pads to ensure a good mating surface. I didn't see you thoroughly clean the brake caliper and support bracket. Worse of all was that you didn't clean up the handbrake shoes let alone adjust them after fitting new discs.. Why not?
Also.. Wear nitrile gloves and a dust mask. Brake dust is a contaminant
Other than that is was a very clear video.
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