I built a 1600cc with a Engle 130, 041 dual port heads and Dellorto 40's. It was a screamer. Never had an issue with it. It ran awesome for years. It can be done
had big motors with stock carbs and jetted right they run fine. Had stock motors with nice cams and jetted right they work pretty good too... Right on.
@@olguncavusoglu6521 autostick is very particular. I am not sure it will change the vacuum amounts. From what i know stock is the only way to go on autostick. But if your going to try it you might want to go 100 cam. the 110 would change vacuum possibly too much.
Great to hear an expert state this. I'm currently putting together a 1641, will retain SP heads with some mild porting and a rejetted stock Solex Pict. I'm using a 12lb flywheel and straight cut gears (just because I like the sound!) and the cam will E100 with a quiet-pack exhaust. Whoever says you can't/shouldn't use a performance cam with stock carb and valves doesn't know what they're talking about! Thanks Mike.
I just rebuilt my 65 1200 motor and put a 100 cam in it. Single carb and stock build other then electronic ignition. It runs amazing and performs amazing. I don’t plan on changing a thing. I run down the freeway at 65 mph sipping gas and and still have throttle to make it up hills.
I could not agree more . In 2016 i built a 1600 tp with a enlgle 100 flowed the exhaust ports ,upped the cr a bit and balanced the works . I run a stock carb with a 130 main jet and 1.5 psi fuel pressure . I stuck it into my trike an it runs just fabulous .Lots of torque sounds great and very good fuel consumtion . Dont want anything more ..I recently put a 70mm stack on to have it a bit richer on higher rpms and it made a nice difference .
I believe you're one of the few who actually get what they're doing. Makes perfect sense to have a bigger cam to allow yourself room to upgrade intake and exhaust components without having to worry not having enough cam performance later on.
I have always had a thing for these cars. I love the way these motors sound with the cam installed. Could you please tell me are the performance parts reasonable and also what is a good street able cam to run that has a nice large lift lope
Old video Mike also want to add that after you do the Camupgrade its a good way to put on and try out many aftermarket performance parts as you can afford them along the way and still have a nice running car., bus, Thing, etc i like the idea personally it would make shopping at Swap Meets and car shows a little. More fun looking for good deals on used stuff or whatever Yj reason for lower pricing
Performance is restricted by the most restrictive point. So if the flow is worst at the valve you would see gains from a cam change. But matching your cam to the application is most important. With all stock parts other you wouldnt want to go any more than a mild street cam. With these motors the stock cams are really anemic to the point they even limit your rpm capability. With the right cam you may even increase mpg. A small overworked engine is not efficient. Your max efficiency is always at the engines torque peak. So maximizing torque at cruising rpm increases mileage. As for carbs tons of vw guys are way over carbed. Dual 38 two barrels is 900cfm of flow. Thats enough flow for over 900hp and all your intake velosity and throttle response is gone. 350 cfm is enough for the better part of 300hp. Dont over carb! Itll be shit unless you keep the revs up. An engine thats well tuned with parts that compliment eachother id take any day over an engine that spits pops and bogs until the rpms are up.
You can drill the jets in the stock carb out to work better with the performance cam, ratio rockers can benefit also but need cut to size pushrods accurately sized to suit.
I was going to put a E.110 but was told I would need high rev springs. So I stuck to a E 100 and stock springs .I worked in engine rebuild shop and seen to many cams- valves-seats-rockers-push rods get torn up that way. Rambus
I've got an Engle FK8 in my 1300cc (not very stock) engine. With twin 44 Webers and stock valves the Beetle runs 15:08@88mph on the quarter. Has 126hp@7700rpm but zero torque below 5000rpm, so hill starts are fun.
I have a 110 cam in my 40hp and it feels like a 1600.. 70 down the freeway all day long.. got the 110 with the 40hp big bore piston set, increased the compression by using smaller barrel shims, 1600 rockers and have twin single barrel 30 carbs on it with a custom header and hideaway muffler.. it definitely pulls on my friends 1641 dual port.. and still get average 22mpg...
Mike Fn Garage yea i never dump the clutch.. my car is almost 60 years old and mostly original lol however i do change the oil every month religiously and i change the transmission gear oil every 6 months. It’s pretty much my daily driver unless it’s hot enough outside to warrant air conditioning then I’ll drive my 93 f150.. i just love how this car rides and the gas mileage compared to my truck is pretty significant lol
I want to go big big. I got a 1776 110 cam. Idk still a slug. I want to be in the 170 hp range. Probably wont stop till i pull the front wheels Lol. A cam will always help a engine. Keep them valves open longer
yea that 1776 would be pretty fast. and you wont need to do much to the trans. maybe super diff and trans strap. You might even make it with a stock trans if you dont hit it too hard on the shift. or puch it in first.
My machinist told me I need a counter balanced crank if I put in a cam and want to rev it over 4,000 rpms. Is that correct. He says a stock crank starts vibrating too much over 4,000 rpms.
Alright I’ve got a question for ya, am building a 1600 single port for my Ghia. It will have dual carbs and a non stock exhaust. I’m going to put the engine together out of used stock parts. Except for bearings. What kind of cam would you recommend? Keeping the stock valve springs and rockers?
I would go with an engle 100 or equivalent . I would say not to go too big on the carbs. Cadrons would be ok for 1600 but that is about it. If you want to do a little extra stuff you might want to open up the ports a bit to make the heads flow better. just remember not to much or you might go through the port.
Hey Mike, I got a 69 Karmann Ghia with a 1600 dp motor. I want to put a Engle w110 cam with 1.25 rockers into it and a mild port to the heads but I’m limited to using the stock 34 pict 3 for the time being. Planning on putting dual 40mm Kadrons on it later ($$$ kinda tight). Am I going to have to change the jetting around on my stock carb to make it work? I’ve heard that the pict carbs don’t exactly play nice with bigger camshafts. I want to get all of my internals done in my car so I don’t have to worry about it later, but I also want it to be drivable.
If you are staying with the stock 34 pict and you want it to behave and still idle nice. Go with a 100 cam or a web 119. Stick with the 1.1 rockers and single high rev springs with the stock aluminum pushrods. The 1.25 require double springs and chromoly push rods. This will extend your revs but you will lose bottom end power. Also harder on the valve train and harder for that little 1600 to move it. Not worth it unless it's on a bigger motor . My two cents.
@@ahmaddarwish1486 Yes, they do. I have an Engle 100 cam, two 28 PCI carbs, 010 distributor and big bore (83mm) pistons and cylinders . Runs great! Sounds great! More power!
I have a 40 hp case I'm rebuilding and it's board out to 1600, and I have the Baja exhaust and electronic ignition, and haven't bought the carb yet. So I'm wondering if the cam is worth it. I'm broke as it is
Cam bearings in that case are important to put in as well. I would say go stock carb if you have one and put the cam in. You can always upgrade the carb later. The extra advance built into the performance cam will make the car run a bit cooler. Stay out of the ones that want ratio rockers.
also to go on the cheap side you can go big bore 40 and put a small cam in plus ratio rockers. but you wont win any races. The 1600 upgrade will require 1600 heads cam bearing bore and possibly news sleeves in the lifter cavities. and you will still have small oil galleys on your case which can be ok but not really good for long lasting big motors.
Hello I know this vid was posted 3 yrs ago but hopefully you’re still answering questions. I have a 1500sp motor single carb I’m rebuilding and was thinking of doing 90.5 heads with 88mm AA performance slip in piston/cylinder set. Is an Engle W100 perfect for this setup? Also any other suggestions? Thanks.
you could even go with engle 110. Gain some top end HP and loose a little torque but doable. 100 would have good torque. In a bug you dont need as much torque. Dont go bigger than 1.5 merged exhaust either it will fall flat on ifs face at the bottom end. Could be a screamer with dual carbs 40s small vents. honestly I would do a 74 with the chromoly short rods. Almost a bolt in. just need to trim the piston skirts. Builds an 1800 with a stock block. Get the 40/35 heads from aa. Watch the 74 stroker video.
@@Mikefngarage also AA performance has a complete rebuild kit for around 1k with new sp heads, crank, pistons etc. Was thinking of going this route and add the W110 with CG and I have an empi gt exhaust. Or should I spend the extra money on getting the heads to 92mm and doing the 88mm slip in pistons to make it a 1679cc?
Well Most people cant afford a good efi. The original EFI was pretty primitive from the late 70s worked well when it worked but when it broke it was always fun. Typical VW wiring connection issues.
Little harder on the whole valvetrain. It, without a doubt, puts more strain. But the amount of strain you gain over the amount of power is next ti nil
I have a 1915 whit a stock crank and fly wheel and cam the only thing making it a1915is the cilinders and I have cam falier no los off power o compression can I put a 110cam on it
It baffles me that people are so convinced that u can't cam a stock motor... U can can cam any stock motor to a certain extent... It will just push your power band higher up in the Rev range...
for a street engine, it's always preferable to be conservative on the cam choice, the basic of a performance cam is to move the maximum torque higher in the RPM range so the HP number is higher but the drawback is that you loose torque in the RPM band that is the most used in street driving unless you use the car to do street races.
Hey Mike, question you said 40 horse big bore with ratio rockers. What size rockers?? 1.1, or 1.25. Do I have to change my push rods as well. What about valve springs. Great video Mike.
Depends on the rules for the event. If you’re trying to stay in a Stock class or something like that, you’d probably be best to focus one handling and weight. Just my opinion.
ive been doin research, i have been throwing around the idea of a 130 cam, 1.1 rockers, with high performance heads, dual port with a single webber, on a 1600. do you think that would work?
might be a bit much cam for a 1600. I like 100 or 110 for 1600. High performance heads are ok. But you will need to up the compression ratio to at least 8.5 to 1. or more. but more compression means more heat as well.
@@Mikefngarage i already built the engine, i ended up building a 1679 with a w125, i used 040 heads with around 9 to 1. i used high rev springs and a single idf44. it runs good
If you plan on sticking with the stock 34 pict on a 1600. I wouldn't run anything more aggressive than 100 cam or a web 119 which is slightly hotter than the 100. A 110 is too much if you are keeping everything bone stock.
I built a 1600cc with a Engle 130, 041 dual port heads and Dellorto 40's. It was a screamer. Never had an issue with it. It ran awesome for years. It can be done
Sounds like a bog dog until 3000rpm.
Been there done that.
I used to have a daily driver, stock motor, single carb of course jetted, 1.3/4 inch exhaust, and a w130 and it ran great.
Yet it would have ran waaaay better with a 110 and 1 3/8 header.
Great video. Currently learning these engines about to overhaul a 1600. Thank you for your knowledge!
camshafts are truly amazing how they work
Am a 50 year vw mechanic. Agree with 100%. Owned race and street hot VWs over the years
had big motors with stock carbs and jetted right they run fine. Had stock motors with nice cams and jetted right they work pretty good too... Right on.
any tips for a auto stick?
keep everyting original or you will have problems
@@Mikefngarage what about 110 cam+88 piston (1679cc slip-in)+stock carb for autostick? Thanks.
@@olguncavusoglu6521 autostick is very particular. I am not sure it will change the vacuum amounts. From what i know stock is the only way to go on autostick. But if your going to try it you might want to go 100 cam. the 110 would change vacuum possibly too much.
Great to hear an expert state this. I'm currently putting together a 1641, will retain SP heads with some mild porting and a rejetted stock Solex Pict. I'm using a 12lb flywheel and straight cut gears (just because I like the sound!) and the cam will E100 with a quiet-pack exhaust.
Whoever says you can't/shouldn't use a performance cam with stock carb and valves doesn't know what they're talking about! Thanks Mike.
I just rebuilt my 65 1200 motor and put a 100 cam in it. Single carb and stock build other then electronic ignition. It runs amazing and performs amazing. I don’t plan on changing a thing. I run down the freeway at 65 mph sipping gas and and still have throttle to make it up hills.
I could not agree more . In 2016 i built a 1600 tp with a enlgle 100 flowed the exhaust ports ,upped the cr a bit and balanced the works . I run a stock carb with a 130 main jet and 1.5 psi fuel pressure . I stuck it into my trike an it runs just fabulous .Lots of torque sounds great and very good fuel consumtion . Dont want anything more ..I recently put a 70mm stack on to have it a bit richer on higher rpms and it made a nice difference .
I believe you're one of the few who actually get what they're doing. Makes perfect sense to have a bigger cam to allow yourself room to upgrade intake and exhaust components without having to worry not having enough cam performance later on.
I read about upjetting the stock carb, due to our crappy alcohol fuel now. Not sure what number jet though. Good video!
You're totally right, it's all in the tune
I have always had a thing for these cars. I love the way these motors sound with the cam installed. Could you please tell me are the performance parts reasonable and also what is a good street able cam to run that has a nice large lift lope
Old video Mike also want to add that after you do the Camupgrade its a good way to put on and try out many aftermarket performance parts as you can afford them along the way and still have a nice running car., bus, Thing, etc i like the idea personally it would make shopping at Swap Meets and car shows a little. More fun looking for good deals on used stuff or whatever Yj reason for lower pricing
My dad and I built a 1913 on a engle 120 and Rockville rockers and two dual carbs
Performance is restricted by the most restrictive point. So if the flow is worst at the valve you would see gains from a cam change. But matching your cam to the application is most important. With all stock parts other you wouldnt want to go any more than a mild street cam. With these motors the stock cams are really anemic to the point they even limit your rpm capability. With the right cam you may even increase mpg. A small overworked engine is not efficient. Your max efficiency is always at the engines torque peak. So maximizing torque at cruising rpm increases mileage. As for carbs tons of vw guys are way over carbed. Dual 38 two barrels is 900cfm of flow. Thats enough flow for over 900hp and all your intake velosity and throttle response is gone. 350 cfm is enough for the better part of 300hp. Dont over carb! Itll be shit unless you keep the revs up. An engine thats well tuned with parts that compliment eachother id take any day over an engine that spits pops and bogs until the rpms are up.
Great job
You can drill the jets in the stock carb out to work better with the performance cam, ratio rockers can benefit also but need cut to size pushrods accurately sized to suit.
I was going to put a E.110 but was told I would need high rev springs. So I stuck to a E 100 and stock springs .I worked in engine rebuild shop and seen to many cams- valves-seats-rockers-push rods get torn up that way. Rambus
I have bigger cams than that with stock springs. just dont rev it too high and its fine.
I've got an Engle FK8 in my 1300cc (not very stock) engine. With twin 44 Webers and stock valves the Beetle runs 15:08@88mph on the quarter. Has 126hp@7700rpm but zero torque below 5000rpm, so hill starts are fun.
I have a 110 cam in my 40hp and it feels like a 1600.. 70 down the freeway all day long.. got the 110 with the 40hp big bore piston set, increased the compression by using smaller barrel shims, 1600 rockers and have twin single barrel 30 carbs on it with a custom header and hideaway muffler.. it definitely pulls on my friends 1641 dual port.. and still get average 22mpg...
only thing is gotta be nice to it with the clutch the cranks are not taht strong tend to break when you do too much power up. But sounds nice.
Mike Fn Garage yea i never dump the clutch.. my car is almost 60 years old and mostly original lol however i do change the oil every month religiously and i change the transmission gear oil every 6 months. It’s pretty much my daily driver unless it’s hot enough outside to warrant air conditioning then I’ll drive my 93 f150.. i just love how this car rides and the gas mileage compared to my truck is pretty significant lol
pistons from aftermarket suck, original higher compression cylinders had a domed piston head not flat that loses power.😢
Cam and heads makes a lot of power
you bet
Piston94 +new heads (GTV2)+82STROCKE CRANK AND CAM 130 WITH MEXICAN INJECTOR SYSTEM… NEW ALUMINUM CASE… .
MORE POWER 💪
Preach Mike! (Says the choir.)
those stock cams are just too flat. yes sir.
I want to go big big. I got a 1776 110 cam. Idk still a slug. I want to be in the 170 hp range. Probably wont stop till i pull the front wheels
Lol. A cam will always help a engine. Keep them valves open longer
yea that 1776 would be pretty fast. and you wont need to do much to the trans. maybe super diff and trans strap. You might even make it with a stock trans if you dont hit it too hard on the shift. or puch it in first.
Jeff Woods you want the power youll need more cc more heads more carbs more cam.
Well stated.
thanks
My machinist told me I need a counter balanced crank if I put in a cam and want to rev it over 4,000 rpms. Is that correct. He says a stock crank starts vibrating too much over 4,000 rpms.
Alright I’ve got a question for ya, am building a 1600 single port for my Ghia. It will have dual carbs and a non stock exhaust. I’m going to put the engine together out of used stock parts. Except for bearings. What kind of cam would you recommend? Keeping the stock valve springs and rockers?
I would go with an engle 100 or equivalent . I would say not to go too big on the carbs. Cadrons would be ok for 1600 but that is about it. If you want to do a little extra stuff you might want to open up the ports a bit to make the heads flow better. just remember not to much or you might go through the port.
More duration with fuel with in respects to manifold intake/exhaust
Hey Mike, I got a 69 Karmann Ghia with a 1600 dp motor. I want to put a Engle w110 cam with 1.25 rockers into it and a mild port to the heads but I’m limited to using the stock 34 pict 3 for the time being. Planning on putting dual 40mm Kadrons on it later ($$$ kinda tight). Am I going to have to change the jetting around on my stock carb to make it work? I’ve heard that the pict carbs don’t exactly play nice with bigger camshafts. I want to get all of my internals done in my car so I don’t have to worry about it later, but I also want it to be drivable.
If you are staying with the stock 34 pict and you want it to behave and still idle nice. Go with a 100 cam or a web 119.
Stick with the 1.1 rockers and single high rev springs with the stock aluminum pushrods.
The 1.25 require double springs and chromoly push rods.
This will extend your revs but you will lose bottom end power. Also harder on the valve train and harder for that little 1600 to move it.
Not worth it unless it's on a bigger motor .
My two cents.
Putting a cam in required splitting cases any way so now is the time to build
its the best money you can spend if you're a hobbyist, the variations can be anything
would have been nice to see one run....
Mike, what about if I put in an Engle 100 cam in my 1200 40 horse engine and two 28 PCI carbs with 010 dizzy? Thanks!
do they make engle cams for a 40 horse?
@@ahmaddarwish1486 Yes, they do. I have an Engle 100 cam, two 28 PCI carbs, 010 distributor and big bore (83mm) pistons and cylinders . Runs great! Sounds great! More power!
Does it make it sound choppy?
Piston94 +new heads (GTV2)+82STROCKE CRANK AND CAM 130 WITH MEXICAN INJECTOR SYSTEM… NEW ALUMINUM CASE… .
MORE POWER 💪
sounds bruital make sure to beef up that trans. welded 3rd and 4th super diff and super beetle main shaft.
Anyone who say installing a cam is a waste of time. Does not know how to increase hp.
I have a 40 hp case I'm rebuilding and it's board out to 1600, and I have the Baja exhaust and electronic ignition, and haven't bought the carb yet. So I'm wondering if the cam is worth it. I'm broke as it is
Cam bearings in that case are important to put in as well. I would say go stock carb if you have one and put the cam in. You can always upgrade the carb later. The extra advance built into the performance cam will make the car run a bit cooler. Stay out of the ones that want ratio rockers.
also to go on the cheap side you can go big bore 40 and put a small cam in plus ratio rockers. but you wont win any races. The 1600 upgrade will require 1600 heads cam bearing bore and possibly news sleeves in the lifter cavities. and you will still have small oil galleys on your case which can be ok but not really good for long lasting big motors.
Hello I know this vid was posted 3 yrs ago but hopefully you’re still answering questions. I have a 1500sp motor single carb I’m rebuilding and was thinking of doing 90.5 heads with 88mm AA performance slip in piston/cylinder set. Is an Engle W100 perfect for this setup? Also any other suggestions? Thanks.
you could even go with engle 110. Gain some top end HP and loose a little torque but doable. 100 would have good torque. In a bug you dont need as much torque. Dont go bigger than 1.5 merged exhaust either it will fall flat on ifs face at the bottom end. Could be a screamer with dual carbs 40s small vents. honestly I would do a 74 with the chromoly short rods. Almost a bolt in. just need to trim the piston skirts. Builds an 1800 with a stock block. Get the 40/35 heads from aa. Watch the 74 stroker video.
@@Mikefngarage this is a motor build for my father who doesn’t care about going fast but I just wanted to add a little more power
@@Mikefngarage also AA performance has a complete rebuild kit for around 1k with new sp heads, crank, pistons etc. Was thinking of going this route and add the W110 with CG and I have an empi gt exhaust. Or should I spend the extra money on getting the heads to 92mm and doing the 88mm slip in pistons to make it a 1679cc?
Could You make a video about this engine with EFI ?
Well Most people cant afford a good efi. The original EFI was pretty primitive from the late 70s worked well when it worked but when it broke it was always fun. Typical VW wiring connection issues.
It all depends on what you want. If its reliability and fuel economy, the stock std engine will do the job....
How can increasing lift and duration hurt your engine? Long as you don't go too big of course...
+VeeDub P8 putting a nice small cam in a stock motor can give it a little more pep just no big giant monster cam like you said perfect
Little harder on the whole valvetrain. It, without a doubt, puts more strain. But the amount of strain you gain over the amount of power is next ti nil
i have a fk8 in my 1600 With stock rockers and the cylinder head temperature run's 220 max that is in a bus
yea rumpety bump lets get some valve overlap. The cam can help with that needed advance keeping that motor cool in that big box...
hey darrin I looked up that cam I have a similar one in my bus runs super cool too. you got some good info out there in the east coast. good to hear
vwdarrin Single 44 mm Weber carb. will work with a c-45 scatt cam & dual port heads Bigger valve & 69 counter weight scatt crank & 94 mm pistons
If I put a 90mm piston and cylinder to a stock engine do I need to rebore the engine block?
yes the largest you can do is a 87 for stock block and heads. Usually I have heard of 90.5 instead of 90.
@@Mikefngarage the cylinder walls will be getting then wont they?
I have a 1915 whit a stock crank and fly wheel and cam the only thing making it a1915is the cilinders and I have cam falier no los off power o compression can I put a 110cam on it
Wish auto linea case was three piece !
It baffles me that people are so convinced that u can't cam a stock motor... U can can cam any stock motor to a certain extent... It will just push your power band higher up in the Rev range...
for a street engine, it's always preferable to be conservative on the cam choice, the basic of a performance cam is to move the maximum torque higher in the RPM range so the HP number is higher but the drawback is that you loose torque in the RPM band that is the most used in street driving unless you use the car to do street races.
The guy saying a stock engine with a camshaft is complete wrong on any Internal Combustion engine at all other than a rotary engine.
Hey Mike, question you said 40 horse big bore with ratio rockers. What size rockers?? 1.1, or 1.25. Do I have to change my push rods as well. What about valve springs. Great video Mike.
1.1 1600 rockers
you will need to size your pushrod tubes. you can buy the cut to fit ones.
Advance curve refers to ignition advance in the distributor not the camshaft. Maybe you mean power curve?
It means that since dynamic compresion goes down he can run more advance
I wanna build a budget rally bug what should I do to my bug
Ide like to know too
Depends on the rules for the event. If you’re trying to stay in a Stock class or something like that, you’d probably be best to focus one handling and weight. Just my opinion.
So your a fan of cams Mike lol
Nothing wrong with that my man
ive been doin research, i have been throwing around the idea of a 130 cam, 1.1 rockers, with high performance heads, dual port with a single webber, on a 1600. do you think that would work?
might be a bit much cam for a 1600. I like 100 or 110 for 1600. High performance heads are ok. But you will need to up the compression ratio to at least 8.5 to 1. or more. but more compression means more heat as well.
@@Mikefngarage i already built the engine, i ended up building a 1679 with a w125, i used 040 heads with around 9 to 1. i used high rev springs and a single idf44. it runs good
@@teetheadyea with that compression ratio that would work really good. Yea the webcam works just as good as any. I bet that motor is pretty peppy.
Its just raising your rpm range
exactly
Would my 1500 be considered a 40 hp engine???
no that is more horse power than the 40hp engine. The 40 hp was a 1200.
Mike F thank you sir! 🙏
1500 cc stock was 53 horsepower. 1600 was 60 hp factory rated but not really.
If you plan on sticking with the stock 34 pict on a 1600.
I wouldn't run anything more aggressive than 100 cam or a web 119 which is slightly hotter than the 100.
A 110 is too much if you are keeping everything bone stock.
you can bump the compression up and 110 works great. I also did a single port 110 with ported exhaust that is a game changer. 8 to 1 too.
Just put the damn thing on a Dyno machine do you have to make a fucking soap opera out of it problem solve