VW Bug how to prevent engine overheating
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- Опубліковано 4 тра 2017
- best deal on goodyear air hose check this out amzn.to/3b5cJvy All these things i suggest have been tested with gauges back in the 80s at my buddys shop. The only thing I left out is Cool tin which is type 3 replica tin for all vw engines. It goes under the cylinders. has metered holes. Really works well it is on the other modified engine video. you might want to watch it as well.
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ua-cam.com/video/1mTVj5eTWjI/v-deo.html
Here are additional key information for modified engines plus more cooling stuff...
Mike F : In regards to cooling systems, check out Jake Raby's D.T.M. cooling system. Each cylinder receives 20% cooling and the oil cooler receives 18% only 2% loss of air throughout the entire system. "R.A.D." (Raby Engine Development) has documented proof of the efficiency of his system. I personally own one of his T-4 2056cc engines in a T-1 bug configuration, although somewhat pricey it turned out to be great insurance for keeping an aircooled engine "Properly cooled" in the harshest conditions. Being able to drive the death valley in August without overheating is quite satisfying. These D.T.M. systems are also available for the factory T-1 vehicles as well.
Run it faster. It's air cooled
What is an acceptable head temp, and what is considered "to hot" / when us as the driver should start to worry.
Been running an oil temp gauge for 20 years and has served me well. If your oil temp gets too high you know your heads are too hot. Best thing i did for my engine run cooler (being in southern California where it gets very hot in the summer) was to space the engine lid. Dropped my oil temp like 40 degrees. It has never overheated since.
Cheaper and easier than a cylinder head temperature gauge. I will eventually add an oil temperature and maybe a pressure gauge too. Running a 65 40HP in a 64 baja.
What is " to space the engine lid" ?
@@larrybrinley8222 i think he means the "hood" of a bug. more airflow?
VERY enlightening!! I've been around bugs since 1960, yeah I'm THAT old! Through the years, it's amazing how many things we forget. Just got a VW Trike for the wife. Engine's fairly open, so I wasn't worried 'bout bottom tin. OOPS, gonna install them. I like that you brought attention to oil temp. vs engine temp! An engine can literally 'smoke' itself before the oil temp goes up.
Mike, you are a wealth of information. 100% of things you mentioned I had to figure out though out the years with many failures.
Good advice on keeping top and bottom of the motor isolated, that's key as is running all the tin including "sleds" underneath. As VW increased fan capacity they started adding the deck lid louvers. My 1970 has two rows of louvers and a rain shield but not the dog house shroud, just a wider fan. Doghouse flows a lot more air. You may never have a problem but the best place for fuel filter is where the fuel line comes out of the chassis at the back of the pan and use a metal one, not plastic or glass. Almost everybody tossed the flaps and thermostat when rebuilding but the flaps actually redirect a little more air over a section of the heads even when fully open. It's not vital but does help cool the heads some. I run them in my bug but not in my speedster. I also don't like how the new thermostats fail closed but the old accordion stats can still be found. If you run stand offs you can use baja bug tricks to keep your bug running in the rain/wash. Hair spray on the plug wires was one of my favorites. :)
yes , and keeping engine clean & oil free....I created channel adapters , from aluminum....I run J-tubes , they take the place of the heater box sides....sold a pair , on my '67 bug.....kool vid , thanx from all bugheads everywhere
Great explanation! Good job and nice bug!
Just a little improvement: Relocate the fuel filter below your tank to avoid leaking and fire in your engine compartment.
And place it before the pump rather than after. Better to have the pump sucking through the filter than pressurizing it
this is good thinking and it helps me out now. cheers from Drangedal, Norway!
Love this!!! As far as air flow goes, I agree about the firewall tin... however for fire sake, I don't agree that this can be removed. Anything that helps block flames from the cabin will give passengers valuable time to exit in case of fire.
How to prevent your air cooled VW from overheating ? Just assemble and install it the same as they did from the factory with all of the same parts that it came from the factory. The folks at VW put a lot of Deutschmarks into designing it so it would run well, don't try to re-engineer it.
that is mostly right there are some improvements you can and may need to do. The car was designed to be used in Germany Not the Califonria desert or worse yet AZ or NV. I highly recommend cool tin for under the cylinders if you are building a new engine. It really works. There is a reason they put it on Porsche and airplanes. plus the jetting for todays fuels.
german parts only if possible,just saying have you seen those Chinese aftermarket parts?they are really bad.
except it wasn't designed for 115degrees in Az..:(
Even if completely factory fresh, #3 cylinder still overheats and has problems with valves and pistons going bad due to how the fan cools the oil. As much as I love VWs, that's an inherent design flaw.
Some bugs here are all original and yet overheat all the time. Any suggestions on having a bug in a very very very hot city?
You mention 'you know how it sound like' (when it gets hot) and that brought me back to 1985 and my 1967 bug. I remember exactly what your talking about. When the engine got too hot, it got weak and sounded different...
Never heard that happen on my 68 - and I usually listened when driving.
Yup, it's telling you HELP ME!!!! I'M ON FIRE!!!!
I have never had an overheating issue with my '71. When i adjust the valves, I always leave #3 a bit loose. I also have an oil cooler and filter (aftermarket) Also, keep the seals in good shape as well. Every 1500 miles or 3 months, i inspect the fuel pump, lines and fittings.
I grew up with VW but not a handyman. I never install a 009, just a vacuum centrifugal advance because former makes engine run hot. Nice video.
😎🇵🇭👍
Nice tip on rejetting and cylinder head temp gauge on #3. I like the version which uses a ring under the plug. I’ve had bad luck with the version which utilizes a cooling fin attachment. For Florida summers I use the deck lid stand offs along with your lid lift. I also like the Mystery Oil setup. I’ve been doing VWs since 1977 and it’s funny older you are the more stock you run and appreciate the amazing engineering done by the factory designers.
got that right all stock no problems.
advice i am looking for // i just want longevity and smooth . buy new stock motor from germany . haha. @@Mikefngarage
Awesome cooling tips, thanks !
My 71 bus(12yrs)had a Berg $5 oil dipstick temp gauge. Made the red oil light flash when oil got hot. Used it on my 1776cc dual carb. I added a deep sump and external oil cooler w/ electric fan mounted away from engine under floor. Course my oil volume went from 2qt to 6qt. I totally agree that ALL SHEET METAL has to be there.
This video is packed with useful info!
What people fail to figure out is the whole cooling system is "ducted" so the air flows evenly to the places it needs to be. Removing any of the sheet metal or modifying the flow screws that up. This goes double for those deflectors under the cylinder barrels and the curved pieces between the heater box and the block., It's all there to shape the flow for maximum cooling. The factory inlet louver above the decklid already has enough opening for the needed flow. The only reason the convertible decklid has louvers is because there is no opening in the body. Yeah, many of the later bugs had louvers in the lid, but that's more for the trapped heat when you park in warm climates. You will never see any improvement in cooling on the highway.
yea for sure. the only time you need any real upgrades is when you dont have the stock motor. Late models had more vents for the bigger 1600 engine and or dual port. They ran hotter. The only things I found that help are the Cool tin style deflectors as a add on. They do work. So many guys also put late model 1600 engines in early cars. They run hotter than the 40hp or 1300 that came in them. A bit wider too. But it does work.
Great video, as always Mike!
On my Type 2 Transporter I routed the fuel line/filter round behind the manifold at the rear of the Carburetor. A little harder to get at but I learned after a near catastrophic engine bay fire it was worth the hassle.
yea that is cool. I have seen some with fuel hose rubbing on the throttle cable doing that just keep it clear of that. Had them both ways and never had an issue. But I have seen the barb slip out of the carb an burn several of them to the ground.
Back in the '80s I put Bus wheels on my Ghia: an inch shorter and an inch wider than original. I found some relatively low profile Michelins that were just about the same overall diameter as the original tires, so I had the same gearing and my speedometer was accurate. For clearance, I only had to grind the rear bump stops a little bit.
I agree with this hears my question doing it this way will be great in stop in go traffic and Fwy driving
great info video. a must watch for all newbies to the VW family. Keep dubbing
for sure you wouldnt know how many guys still have those holes in the rear tin still open that have been driving that way for years and wonder why they keep having to change engines. Look at cars for sale and open holes in rear tin or missing. want a fortune for the car.
Something so small and simple can save so much. When it comes to engine bay all that chrome won't get you home. It creates more heat or vapor lock where gas will start to make. bubbles. im curious to see the views on this one. I will be posting more videos and starting on first car. Whichever that one may be. Keep your eyes open. keep your videos coming. I have learned alot. keep dubbing
volkswagenplanet knowing you have a lot of vw experience, I'm thinking about getting a beetle and wondering what maitnence I should do and what to buy when I get one. in mind I want a small turbo so what should I get for a turbo set up. Thanks if you can help out :)
It's funny that most people's engines always have those tin screws that secure the bottom tin to the case missing. Not sure why, but I bet it's well over 50% of the motors I look at have those 4 screws missing. I'm sure you also notice that the carb preheat tubes are missing the inner and outer top seals. Not a big deal, but still missing and a place air can recirculate back up top. You obviously know your way around ACVWs but for those that don't know what complete tin looks like, you might want to point that out. Great vid none the less.
This is for the guy that uploaded the video some of what you are saying is true but for the most part it sounds like you are Repeating something you heard from that doesn't know everything about aircooled VWS Dr Porsche would give you an E for Effort for making this video without all the facts you can post this for all of your viewers you want to Run a 3.88 ring and pinion if you gonna be running on the Freeway at 70 plus mph I want get into all of the other ways to keep the engine cool ok maybe one more just for you I noticed the deck lid on the car with the Dual Port engine didn't have any Vents where does the heat go when the car is parked...it normally goes up but your car has no where for it to go oh and another thing you fuel line the rubber section are a fire hazard you might want to change those ASAP or sooner...and be safe
Ditto on removing the fuel filter. Relocate under the wheel well. Also, lace the hose clamps where they connect to the carb and fuel pump as the brass fittings frequently slip out of the casting. This together with ensuring you have a good grommet where the metal fuel line enters the firewall and you will have mitigated 99% of the risk of fire. Very nice car. Please do not let it burn up. I have seen too many, all the same cause.
yea grommet or wrap the metal line with hose. a little silicone to hold it in place. Like these comments and hope more people read them. I have never had a fuel filter crack yet but I am a bit more worried about the new stuff now made so cheap.
Never put the filter on the pressure side of the pump!
Instead of lacing the brass fitting, I put a drop of Loctite on it. Then I inserted the brass fitting (which has about a 15° bend in it) into the fuel pump. One second later it was impossible to twist the fitting. The Loctite filled the clearance between the two parts.
Awesome video man. I truly love my 70 bug
Right on!
I learned a lot !! Thanks 👍😃
Thank you for the tips !
Also painting your engine is a bad idea. A clean rough casting is best for heat dissipation. Dr Porsche knew what he was ding. Very smart guys designed this stuff.
yes good info.
Just depainted mine. Last guy painted it gold. 🙄
@@LaverneDefaziox Mine was painted silver when I bought it. Everything was. That rubber tube going from the air filter to oil filter? Spray painted silver. A rubber hose. Lol
Wow. So much great info.
Thanks for all the information sir and I need to buy almost all the important. Parts for my 68 thanks so much and great video 👍
Good stuff. Really eye opening for me.
I'm watching and learning! 👍 thank you
Thanks! I learned a lot from this video👌🏻
keeping the baffle deflector between the cylinders is very important as well as a sealed doghouse,no holes in it,also keeping for fan free from dirt,and keeping all ribbed aluminum on block free of gunk or debris,fan tension and length of spark plug threads also are factors,depending on what kind of driving you will be doing.oil level also very important a vw only takes 3 qts so if you are low a 1/2 qt thats going to be a problem.oil leaks gunk up cooling fins and compromise cooling ability.i can keep going but i won't.theres so many things.
My simple way to keep my 68 bug cooler , was to drill a small hole in the rear bumper at the center ''front'' edge , and a small hole in the engine lid at the low tip , put a old fashioned screen door hook in the bumper ......and the hook eye nutted into the engine lid ......and open the lid , insert the hook into the hook eye , drive down the highway.....simple . An VDO oil temp ''told '' me it worked cuz if the oil temp started to rise to higher than I liked it , I would pull over and open the lid , put the hook that was dangling from the bumper into the engine lid eye , get back on the road and watch the oil temp drop quickly to where I liked it .......the engine lid was about 4 inches ''open'' , and sucked the heat OUT ........simple !!!
This type of air cool engine is very sensitive to tiny oil leak. Air if move fast can sitting dust on surfaces as head cylinder and cylinder plates if plates oily. Good assembling and sure to oil sealed is important.
Never been around beetles and somehow this video came into my feed. Very interesting watch!
I think in regards to the cooling points made, you have guys coming from water-cooled backgrounds unaware just how much engineering work went into that ducting. They chuck it thinking its a weight mod or hindering the ability for easy maintanence.
thanks for watching
be carful they are addicting the basic technology that was used was enticing.
Thanks for all the info 👍👍
I have a 1979 VW karmonn super beetle. Do you know what size the engin is, do I need to rejet the carb, and is the trans. ok to go 70 with the gearing I really injoyed this video. thanks for the info. I had a 1959 VW bus and I put chevy rims on it and did noyhing like you were talking about so now I know why I went through 4 engaines
Thanks for this vid and good info.. peace.
Lots of great info
Yup, been running premium gas since the lead was removed (ages ago). Since the Bug gets pretty good mileage I figure spending more on gasoline (per gallon) evens out in the end. Costs less to operate than my Toyota Land Cruiser on regular gas.
I used to run my old Karmann Ghia with full instrumentation: tach, volts, oil pressure, oil temp, head temp. And the doghouse cooler, after Gene Berg did tests showing the German engineers knew what they were doing.
This is one of the most valuable video about Vw I’ve ever watched!!!
Thank you man!!! I think you just save my poor engine!!!! I was doing it all by ignorance.
Glad it helped!
Mike Fn Garage Oh yeah!! 👍🏻
Mike Fn Garage Mike, where are you located? Just in case we’re close, I’m in NC 😁
Always ,Always use engine oil with a zinc additive to make your lifters and cam last .
Very informative, thanks.
Thanks for the tips. What main jet should be run for a stock rebuilt 36 horse power ? I would like to know?
How do you know if the fan is functioning? Thanks. Great video!
mind is scrambling thinking what i need to do on the bug now this ugh added to the list lol
gracias carnal,voy a aplicar algo de lo que aprendi aqui para mi vw 1971 westfalia motor 1600,listo para viajar ala playa
You mentioned doghouse oil cooler? I used a type 4 as advised by my mechanic. It is hot in my country 8 months in a year. Good video!!!
Great point! we also did that in the Bulletproof engine build. Type4 cooler modified the shroud . I would do that in hotter climate too. also putting the electric fan powered cooler works good too. I also use heads that AA puts out that have opened up air finned area. better flow especially with the cool tin installed.
Front engine tin is necessary to prevent heat from being suck in and additionally is the front tin seal. It is necessary also.
better if it is on, but we did tests with temp gauges in the early 80s and did not get any different results with the front off. The rear of the car oh yea if you want to burn up a motor just leave some holes in the rear.
Thank you for the video I'm new to VW, i got a 75 and I'm curious if i put a temp head gauge what the temp i should keep it. Thanks
The long tube swing axle has the 4.12 r/p
Nice looking VW's...
I bought a after market oil cooler that screwed on the back of the fan housing, and it also came with a oil filter that use a regular oil filter.,A head temp. Guage would be a good idea.and 30wieght synthetic oil which handle the heat better.I see your engine has a 09 distributor and a Bosch coil good improvements .
Why some people say "no" or finger down?...The guy took his time to show some positive issues on the air cooled VW engine.Please guys.
From me is a...THANK YOU.
I cant figure it out either. thanks for the positive comment
I know, right?
I appreciate ALL videos that give good info for this type of automobile.... Thanks again!
People are Google shit for brains...they search topics and confuse that with research. The same imps typically have zero experience with anything they feel the need to negate.
What about making sure the belt is snug? And that there is enough crankcase oil? 45 years ago when I used to pump gas in these things I very frequently found those items needing attention. And that was when the speed limit was 70 (before it was lowered to 55).
Very good video!
Very informative thanks
Tire width and sidewall aspect ratio will always determine the final gear ratio on any vehicle. Bear in mind that a larger overall diameter/circumference tire will make the wheels spin slower and you must watch speed because indicated speed will be lower than actual. The only mods to VWs that are really worth it are ones that route the air around the engine more efficiently.
All these people without the proper tinwork and seals complaining about the "design flaws" of the engine. No, its the fact that you butchered it. Take out half the radiator and switch down to 1/2 radiator hoses and see how well your water cooled car works.
Mike, thank you for the cooling tips! Any brand of Premium Gas that you would recommend? I have the non-doghouse engine oil cooler that came with a protective metal mesh in front of it and I cut that mesh because I thought that it was too restrictive and besides it is inside the fan housing, I think it helps. I would prefer a doghouse cooler but is it hard to install in a single port?
not really it goes right on easiest though with the engine out of the car. SP are great sturdy engines and have less things to go wrong. No intake boots that leak.
I'm amazed how many people still put the fuel filter in the engine compartment with the known fire risk from the distributor and exhaust right there. It's not that hard to put it up front instead. At least yours isn't over the distributor like most people do.
Hey Mike, Someone had a question on a bug engine and thought I would ask you. They have no problem starting when the engine is cold but when it's hot take awhile cranking to start it again. They were thinking a vapor lock from having the metal type gas filter where this plastic one is sitting on yours. Or do you think it may be their fuel pump?
probably vapor lock. Make sure it is running the coolest it can. also check the jetting to make sure it is not running lean. When the engine runs hot it can vapor lock. if it is running cool it probably wont. I use the plastic filters for that reason too. but sometimes the metal line caused the issue but the real issue is usually engine is running hotter than it should be.
The only mod I did to my VW is I encreased the RPM of the cooling fan by using a different custom set of pullies.
Yes it makes the performance suffer a little bit but it's worth it in the long run!
I can't imagine it making the car suffer very much. I think that's a good idea especially for my Manx buggy because it doesn't have any way to seal off the engine compartment.
Best to run in a cooler country.. Heads crack around or near the plugs. Built in flat spot on standard carb in the 70s
flat spot could be from loose throttle shaft makes motor run lean. too watch out on that one.
Great video! Thanks
Did you notice the engine with solid state ignition has no clamp on the output of the fuel pump at the fuel pump?
Thank you for the info as I am in the process of acquiring a late 50's early 60's bug preferably with manual ragtop sunroof.
Thanks for all the info.
the suction side is on the top on that fuel pump. The pressure side is on the bottom. and the bottom is clamped
Just got my 73 bug running again. After watching this video, I'm wishing there was someone like you or even YOU near to take a look at it. My biggest fear is breaking down, being stranded. The guy I bought my bug from, back in 1989, cut the spindles to lower the car :/ I suppose that has altered the airflow? Is there a way to fix or put original/uncut spindles back on? Great video, thanks for sharing, Lo :)
Lowered spindles don't have any effect on cooling. If you think you may be running hot, look elsewhere. I used to drag race one VW and drove a brace of others back in the 70s and early 80s....some lowered and some not. They all ran cool because I was conscientious about keeping all the tin in place and holes plugged.
Nice info thanks.
Cool, thank you!
If a bug overheats normally she will cut out let her cool completely before starting her up again. As it is an air cooled engine very same as a ride on lawnmower. I remember we had a heat wave in Ireland. The push petrol mower cut out i let her cool down and ran her again. Vw beetle uses the same principle
Get a vented lid or stand off hinges or both... It helps more then most things he mentioned
+ady-B David the only thing I don't like about them is water comes in the engine compartment and causes problems when you wash your car
yes they do work but every time you wash your car you are in for a big job.
those dont really work when you are idling,the deck lid is designed to draw air down over the engine blowing all hot air down and away from engine,the deck lid being open compromises cooling ability.plus it looks like crap
Mike F we put a garbage bag over the engine when it's washed. But we make sure the engine is cool.
Nice bugs man👌👌
Make sure your old tar board insulation on the fire wall is in good shape, attached, or replaced. Dangling or broken firewall insulation will suck right over that fan hole no problem.
how about ecm's and over the decklid oil coolers
On a 67 beetle I am trying to get running right the carb is new from a different mechanic. The main jet and air screw does not seem to lean out as it should..sootey.plugs of course..compression is 120..on all cylinders..and changed over to electronic ign..going up on throttle is sluggish too.tks 👍
the carbs need to be jettied right out of the box. Rough jetting is 55 idle and 130 main jet. but you need to check them with a sizing tool. I have found several stamped wrong. Jet sizing tools are available from empi. also they have jets check the size before you install.
@@Mikefngarage Thanks sure like your VW'S..And your speedy responce..👍
i got 2 bugs both running and driving no rust in them but are baja's one is a 63 the other is a 74 the 63 has a 72 bus trans axle in it got both for 400 bucks think i got a good deal with extra parts and custom wheels good tires the 63 takes chevy 5 hole car same as my camero center line wheels
Hey Mike, Im working with a guy to restore a beetle for me and I was wanting to put dual 40 IDF carbs on the engine. He keeps telling me that dual carbs will cause the engine to overheat all the time. Its an 1835cc engine. Do you have any idea if 2 carbs will cause the engine to run much hotter than a single carb?
What would happen if you were to reverse the air fan, so the air would come out the top and sucked In from the bottom?
If I had a Beetle, the first mod I would implement is a way smaller pulley on the generator/air fan shaft for greater speed.
Dont do that. The fan consumes quite a bit of horsepower. The smaller pulley has less grip on the vee belt. Combine these 2, and you will have a slipping belt at even moderate RPMs. Result will be a fried engine.
You could use a late model larger oil cooler and the slightly wider cooling fan impeller.
185mm aspect ratio 75 or 92 for climbing tires thru the terrain in Germany mountain and Alps of Italy. This is 381mm Firestone made in 1935 ad 381mm is 15 inch for motorists in Germany read only R381 on the Mich or Mick tire.
What about replacing the decklids with those from a Vert (since they're louvered)?
does help but sometimes in the wet or rain can come back to haunt you when your car wont start because distributor is wet.
thanks !
Thank you so much
I have a '79 convertible - How can I tell if it's running hot, especially with the top down, driving 2-3 hours to the beach, on the interstate? Thanks!
On my 65 sunroof I bought a convertible decklid for it also. Hopefully it will help
the do a little. I just dont have one because of the water getting in on the distributor.
Mike F true, check this out why IN THE HECK DID I GET SHOCKED when i touched my spark plug wires on my distributor? Are my cheap spark plug wires causing that ?
Bosch or NGK spark plugs only for vws.
nice video. thanks.
Never had a VW or Karmann Ghia that over headed, and never had one that could heat the cabin on cold days. Leave everything as factory set - no problem
Do deck lid standoffs help at all ?
Should those air outlets be capped if you run J tubes?
Check your pulley sizes. Shutters in your fan housing? Gene Berg oil temp. dip stick. Then you know.
Had my share of overheat bugs
..
I have a 64 Baja bug and there is no "give" when I push down on the front end. Do I have locked up shocks, or is the problem actually in the front end itself? Thanks.
Do you have a suggestion for a gauge and thermometer setup to monitor head temp?
there is a gauge set for that. if you want check car craft store for that. IDK the part number.
I have a question. My bus run fine until it's hot then stalls. I have to wait until it gets cold to start again
You do have Mercon V fluid in the Volkswagen air cool transmission at the back. You need to stop bubbles in the transmission fluid by add in more steering pump fluid of 5 speed forward so add in Lucas ZDDP Additive and/or detergent and Plus try the transmission 70W80 oil pump low volume and oil cooler. There oil cooler Misnomer brings the fluid cooler radiator that comes with transmission cooling oil sensor also named heat sensors for trans.fluid.
Mike F You were talking about different gasses to use if I have access to ethanol free gas would you suggest using that?
Well if your car is jetted for that fuel it might be better than e fuel. If it is jetted for the e fuel it will be fine too. So for instance usually if your using ethanol free fuel it will require a smaller main jet. So if you switch to the ethanol free fuel you car will run more rich so it will probably run cooler or it may not like being that rich and not want to run right or foul the plugs. You can even jet your car to run on e 85 and if it is jetted right it will run cool on that too. Having the proper main jet is a very crucial item to making your car run cool.
Do those hood standoff attachments that leave about a inch gap at top help?
yea for sure the stand off kits make the motor run cooler. BUT. they are a real pain in the neck with water getting in your motor and distributer. one rain storm or time you leave your car outside and it gets wet and you will regret having one. One of my buddies is taking his motor apart right now because he got rust in his cylinders.