This is why I only have air cooled dirtbikes. No water pump, power valves, radiators, extra gaskets and just less things to go wrong and worry about. 1982 yz490 with a 465 top end, 1980 yz250, 1981 it175, 09 zuma yw50. Air cooled 2stroke bikes
Did you notice all the rust in the cooling system and the gears. They were using water and it froze and broke the cylinder. That's why it's welded in the first place.
Cylinder O-ring groove looks like one side was “ melted” by weld . O-rings require support on both sides to seal as they crush and deform to seal . You are correct that you can get it built up by tig welding but then good chance it needs re-machining . Great work on your videos !
100% ……I was going to suggest that too …….it would work if prepped properly . Cheap for sure . I did a set of KX 250 engine cases on the bottom after a crank failure years ago ….still running years later .
I was hoping someone mentioned this...also, I'm concerned that the crack that was welded might actually go through the water jacket beyond just the outside of the jug having been cracked, in which case there's no way to seal that back up if the water jacket is weeping directly into the crankcase...he's honestly better off just sourcing another jug and honing it like he did this one...
Those acorn nuts can be a issue if the cylinder studs aren't seated down properly.... add a few washers and see if head stops leaking. As for the cylinder I'd learn to tig weld.
Put some of the marine epoxy on the head leak. It works on cracked boat motors that were not winterized properly. And it's not flat where they welded it where the head meets the cylinder so the o-ring isn't sealing.
I like how you say "cris cross" pattern when tightening the head nuts and you tighten the nut right next to it. Lol. Super fun watching you get these machines working again.
Tough break on that cylinder leak. Good on you for showing that not all bikes make money and there are always surprises when purchasing used bikes. Good attitude and hopefully you can break even.
PUll the cylinder and get a black magic marker, color the top of the outer edge of the cylinder and then use the same glass you used to polish the head and look to see if there is a high spot or a low spot. If it is a high spot, keep the figure 8's going until you have uniform contact. I would nearly bet that you have a high spot on the cylinder where the weld was applied.
I've never used grease on an air filter. I just sprayed filter oil inside and out and never had an issue with dirt getting by. My favorite filter was Uni.
Joe, All of your videos are really good and informative. This one was one of the best on top end rebuilds. Thanks for all of your efforts on videos. Love the " land " racetrack and woods trails !
Next time you change grips try lifting the grip shoulder and blow air into the gap between grip and bar, it will puff up the grip and will pop right off. Same with installing the grip they slide right on with no effort. With or without grip glue. Bummer on the cyl.
This guy is the best ! Wish I had him around when I was a kid and had many dirt bikes in the 70's. What I'm surprised about it the Piston only has 1 ring ! I watch videos on 2 stroke lawn equipment like my Weedwhacker and Leaf Blower. All the lawn equipment repair people say the reason the cheap 2 stroke Weedwhackers and leaf blowers like the $99 ones don't last long and wear out is because they only use 1 Piston Ring and the higher end ones like Echo and Stihl use 2 rings. I'm so surprised this bike has 1 ring.
Tip of the day… When you’re putting on or taking off new grips, stick an air tip under the lip of the grip and blast air while you’re bushing… goes on like butter.
That bike runs really well considering.. nice job on the rebuild. I think that o-ring needs metal on both sides of it, as a comment down here says, you could absolutely build up that wall with a tig weld (man I'd put some jb on there and call it good!!
He needs to take all studds out of the jug sharppie it and slide it over 80 100 120 grit this will show him the hi low spot. The 600 grit is way to fine to do what he is going.
When they welded the cylinder it deformed the aluminum at the sealing surface If you get lucky you might get away with just milling a few thou off the deck or they may have to tig it up a little then deck it but that will still be far less than a new jug. Have them touch up that pinhole as well. If you don't have anyone local try Millennium or U.S. Chrome and there are others.
It sucks that the seller misled you but it’s still a cool bike. Koodos to you for not losing it. I learned a lot from this video, they are great to watch and very informative. Thank you.
Just a tip. Flip your oil bottle 180 degrees and your coolant jug 90 degrees compared to the video and it will eliminate the chugging. Keep up the good work man.
The only time i had a garage it was filled with projects and in a month of working on bikes and rehoming them i could rebuild the entire engine on street bikes and dirt bikes. I love doing this.
That coolant leak up top could be another pin hole that you don't see or like you said, a low spot in the o ring groove. But I would try holding the bike upright or slightly to the right to make sure coolant isn't coming from the right side and ending up where you see it.
i have the same bike and im having a hell of a time wondering why its keep bogging going into 1st.... thinking it may be a clutch issue. love the videos man. i have learned a lot! keep it going!
As many as you come out way ahead on, taking a beating occasionally comes with the territory. You do a great job, and it is interesting to see the mistakes people make while working on stuff when going in for repairs. Wish you would let bikes and quads warm up just a little more , before revving it so much.
36:24 a easy way to get grips on us to take a blow nozzle with a thin tube and insert it in the grip. Blow air into it as you push the grip on and it will slip right on easy peezy.
I clean my parts much more than you do. I need it looking like new when it goes back together, but you do you. JB Weld the tiny hole and the cylinder near the head. It should hold. It isn't in a stress area.
Love your videos. I watched them all the time. I would stop using grease in between the air filter box in the air filter itself. Overtime that grease will attract dirt and sand and as you remove the air filter it can fall into the airbox and make its way into the engine. I just spray extra filter oil around the seal and that does the trick.
New to the channel and love the content. I used to buy and fix up Atv’s about 15 years ago and loved it. This is inspiring me to get back into it again!
WOW, top end and water pump rebuild with the engine in the frame, with hand tools. You sir are a champ, I would have lost half the bolts and washers, broke a couple bolts, 3 or 4 stitches and the piston rings would have shot off somewhere in the garage, piston would have binded and it wouldnt have kicked over. You powered through and still have to deal with a stupid welded head! Great work! Very impressive!
It's possible that there is porosity under the weld next to the cylinder head causing the top leak. You do have a pinhole in the weld lower on the cylinder jacket as you observed. The o-ring in the outer groove in the cylinder at the head might be sealing fine, the groove bottom may be OK, but the weld under it may have a second pinhole into the water jacket. I'd suggest finding a used cylinder / jacket, cause that weld is real iffy. Cheers!
Joe your not shy spending money on your projects I’m the same do it right and don’t cut corners love ya videos nice to watch with a few toastiest and a large cup of tea 👍
Maybe the JB Weld on the top of the cylinder is protruding just a tad and prevent the head to sit and crush the o-ring properly. You may try to use a flat file to check if it's not protruding.
I need one to just keep putting it off looking at the tusk scissor lift for about 230 bucks just not sure if it will lift my 98 kx250 it says it only lifts 300 pounds
Cringe at the running in process, very first start should be at idle till engine warms up then left to cool down to bed the piston and rings in, followed by a mid rev cycle and a high rev cycle. These days tolerance is so good it will only reduce the total life of the engine by a few 100 hours but still worth doing right. Other than that great vid once again sir :)
Dude told him it had issues 🤷🏻♂️ not the sellers fault the buyer isn’t skilled enough to repair the issue, this guy is a child, he has minimal experience and gets lucky sometimes. But his rebuild practices are sloppy and dirty at best
@@ni_wink84who’s forcing you to watch his channel tho? Go find something you want to watch or upload your own stuff and get roasted in your comments ✌️
I don't know if he doesn't understand how the transmission shifts or is he just scared. I don't think he is any good at coordinating a shift.. there are some bikes he will just leave it in one gear and drive it around to keep from having to shift it
When you were removing the power valves, it looked like there was a repair made to the cylinder (weld or some metal-impregnated epoxy). Just thought you should check that.
Joe it's a damn shame there are so many liars, scammers.., out there. You have the right attitude when it comes to dealing with these jack wipes! Keep doing what you are doing, a caring attitude, quality work and entertainment (Vinny) as well, and a passion to do things right. Your fans are with you! Allan in Columbia, SC
A tip for getting on grips, put some rubbing alcohol down the inside of the grip before you put it on, slide the grip on and then the rubbing alcohol dries in like 20s. Used this for all my bmx bikes Lol
Copper head gasket sealant. I use that and reuse old head gaskets!!! Never be as a failure yet. Get the kind in a can with a ball aplicator in the cap.
Hi mate just get the hole in the head welded and that dip in the head built up with weld good job otherwise keep bringing these old bikes back good to watch take care.
Wrong spark plug cap. That is for a 4 stroke ohm cap. Read a shop book it will say 5 ohm cap. Pull a cap off 1 of your other bikes you should get 13.5 to 14 ohm with the right cap on it And that's why it lugs on the start And you use 80, 100, 120 grit when you slid your head on glass. Pop head off and see if there is a pin hole up top in Weld. I'm dealing with the same thing on a kx100. 2018
Always bring the compression tester with and test before you buy, or don't buy it. A buyer always should pre check out, compression before purchase. Know when to walk away and say no. Or offer less, they say no, walk away.
Nope you need What's called A wedge seal that's rectangular shaped that's made in A mold for that spot.or get some right stuff sealant to fill in that spot with instead Joe.
Hi, excellent work again ! For this time, I got a trick for you ! For easier handle grip installation, spay brake cleaner in the new grip and hurry to put it on his final position... way more easier because the brake cleaner act as a lub :-) and when it evaporates, it wont move anymore Hope this help :-)
Looks like porosity in that weld from poor metal prep. The outside of the o-ring groove looks to be missing some metal enough that the o-ring can’t seal against it to pressurize without leaking.
Looks like one of the power valve springs was installed incorrectly on the shaft. Go back and check the video. That could also be causing the bogging problem along with a carb adjustment.
Tig weld the small hole and the dip is the o ring mounting groove you may need to just have it tog welded up and have it milled to deck it and then have the groove remilled in to it at proper depth
take the head to a machine shop to have it mic'd to look for low spot near gasket , TIG weld the spot down lower to fill in the small hole , might only need to be arc'd once .
Hi there when ya did water pump seal the spring part of seal should of gone bearing side so the spring part doesn't rust like the one you took off did...
I revamped a 2003 YZ250 2-stroke and its power valve had problems. The bolts holding the power valve dropped out. One just simply fell to the floor of the power valve assembly area. But one somehow sled all the way down the channel on the side down to the power valve itself. That poor bike could not get out of its own way. But once I had a new piston and rings and the power valve redone, that bike ran like a demon.
Calls for crisscross pattern on head nuts and then torques one side first. :P Oring needs to be supported by the cylinder material all the way around. It's no coincidence that it's leaking at the weld right by where there is material missing. :)
I dont know if it's just the video but I would be inclined to say it still has a jetting problem. That bog on bottom end isn't normal. sounds lean to me. it runs like an old 80cc bike or something. I would throw a JD jet kit in for your elevation and see if that wakes it up. re pack the muffler and seal the header pipe at the cylinder. I think it will be a whole different beast after that.
Looking at the cylinder where it is leaking it doesn't look flat you could remove the studs and the cylinder and samd it flat to see if that sorts it or best bet is a new cylinder as that would remove any structural issues the cylinder has
When they tig welded the cylinder they should have stacked the weld up a bit more and re machined the o ring groove and decked it. As far as the weld on the casting where the power valve is they just left a crater and a pinhole because they didn’t add a last dab of filler when they terminated the weld. The previous owner probably went with the cheapest bid to do the repair.
Does appear the o-ring groove is distorted in the area of the weld. Right fix would be to reweld and remachine the groove and resurface the cylinder deck.. Hope you can find an easier less expensive solution. Thicker o-ring is probably worth a try first. Many things wrong with this bike the previous owner had to know about. People get odd and adjust their morals when money is involved. Hopefully the seller sees this video and revisits his conduct.
You deserve a medal for your positive attitude. I'd be throwing things
He’s a smart guy that’s for sure.
Ditto ! !
very smart n patient
I made the same comment on the last video when he had to pull the utv all apart again to fix the overheating issue.....he is always zen
same 🤣🤣
This is why I only have air cooled dirtbikes. No water pump, power valves, radiators, extra gaskets and just less things to go wrong and worry about. 1982 yz490 with a 465 top end, 1980 yz250, 1981 it175, 09 zuma yw50. Air cooled 2stroke bikes
Did you notice all the rust in the cooling system and the gears. They were using water and it froze and broke the cylinder. That's why it's welded in the first place.
Cylinder O-ring groove looks like one side was “ melted” by weld . O-rings require support on both sides to seal as they crush and deform to seal . You are correct that you can get it built up by tig welding but then good chance it needs re-machining . Great work on your videos !
Yep. ghetto fix would be the JB weld and shape it sand paper. . Proper way is to have it tig weld and machined flat.
100% ……I was going to suggest that too …….it would work if prepped properly . Cheap for sure . I did a set of KX 250 engine cases on the bottom after a crank failure years ago ….still running years later .
Yeah jb weld and let the o ring do the work while it's still soft. Ghetto as hell but right could get expensive.
Yup! pretty sure thats why its bogging take off too has to be sucking air through there
I was hoping someone mentioned this...also, I'm concerned that the crack that was welded might actually go through the water jacket beyond just the outside of the jug having been cracked, in which case there's no way to seal that back up if the water jacket is weeping directly into the crankcase...he's honestly better off just sourcing another jug and honing it like he did this one...
Those acorn nuts can be a issue if the cylinder studs aren't seated down properly.... add a few washers and see if head stops leaking. As for the cylinder I'd learn to tig weld.
Is the jug cracked/ warped?
Being able to weld is one thing, I have learned. Being able to TIG weld, have the welder, and very occasional need is another.
I like the idea of the washers, the studs could have stretched, if they were over torqued in last rebuild.
The reason it is leaking is the o ring relies on the surface on the inside and the outside to be at the same height to hold pressure.
Came here to say this it looks like there’s a chunk of head missing, if there’s no wall for the sell to push against it will just let it push passed
Put some of the marine epoxy on the head leak. It works on cracked boat motors that were not winterized properly. And it's not flat where they welded it where the head meets the cylinder so the o-ring isn't sealing.
That weld on the cylinder is probably a high spot that is stopping the head from clamping down all the way.
right, why so instead he sands down the head where there is no weld.
I like how you say "cris cross" pattern when tightening the head nuts and you tighten the nut right next to it. Lol. Super fun watching you get these machines working again.
Tough break on that cylinder leak. Good on you for showing that not all bikes make money and there are always surprises when purchasing used bikes. Good attitude and hopefully you can break even.
PUll the cylinder and get a black magic marker, color the top of the outer edge of the cylinder and then use the same glass you used to polish the head and look to see if there is a high spot or a low spot. If it is a high spot, keep the figure 8's going until you have uniform contact. I would nearly bet that you have a high spot on the cylinder where the weld was applied.
I've never used grease on an air filter. I just sprayed filter oil inside and out and never had an issue with dirt getting by. My favorite filter was Uni.
The knowledge you have for fixing bikes is insane
Perfect timing, this company meeting is making me fall asleep 😴
🤣🤣I'm watching on one screen while taking an online ethics test
@@thebigguy8306 multitasking 😁
Drill the pin hole out and thread in a set screw with lock tight. That will help with excessive heat on the cylinder.
Was thinking the same thing. Worth a try to save $500 if that's what a cylinder really costs.
Joe, All of your videos are really good and informative. This one was one of the best on top end rebuilds. Thanks for all of your efforts on videos. Love the " land " racetrack and woods trails !
I think both leaks on cylinder were caused by the welds
Gotta be a Chinese cylinder.
Next time you change grips try lifting the grip shoulder and blow air into the gap between grip and bar, it will puff up the grip and will pop right off. Same with installing the grip they slide right on with no effort. With or without grip glue. Bummer on the cyl.
This guy is the best !
Wish I had him around when I was a kid and had many dirt bikes in the 70's.
What I'm surprised about it the Piston only has 1 ring !
I watch videos on 2 stroke lawn equipment like my Weedwhacker and Leaf Blower.
All the lawn equipment repair people say the reason the cheap 2 stroke Weedwhackers and leaf blowers like the $99 ones don't last long and wear out is because they only use 1 Piston Ring and the higher end ones like Echo and Stihl use 2 rings.
I'm so surprised this bike has 1 ring.
Don't forget to fix the fins on the radiator
Tip of the day… When you’re putting on or taking off new grips, stick an air tip under the lip of the grip and blast air while you’re bushing… goes on like butter.
yep and if for some reason the grip wants to slide off spray some hair spray in them and it acts like a glue
That bike runs really well considering.. nice job on the rebuild. I think that o-ring needs metal on both sides of it, as a comment down here says, you could absolutely build up that wall with a tig weld (man I'd put some jb on there and call it good!!
He needs to take all studds out of the jug sharppie it and slide it over
80 100 120 grit this will show him the hi low spot.
The 600 grit is way to fine to do what he is going.
When they welded the cylinder it deformed the aluminum at the sealing surface If you get lucky you might get away with just milling a few thou off the deck or they may have to tig it up a little then deck it but that will still be far less than a new jug. Have them touch up that pinhole as well. If you don't have anyone local try Millennium or U.S. Chrome and there are others.
It sucks that the seller misled you but it’s still a cool bike. Koodos to you for not losing it. I learned a lot from this video, they are great to watch and very informative. Thank you.
Just a tip. Flip your oil bottle 180 degrees and your coolant jug 90 degrees compared to the video and it will eliminate the chugging. Keep up the good work man.
Everytime i watch him poor oil im screaming in my head, "flip it over and itll pour smooth!!!!" Hahaha
The only time i had a garage it was filled with projects and in a month of working on bikes and rehoming them i could rebuild the entire engine on street bikes and dirt bikes. I love doing this.
That coolant leak up top could be another pin hole that you don't see or like you said, a low spot in the o ring groove. But I would try holding the bike upright or slightly to the right to make sure coolant isn't coming from the right side and ending up where you see it.
i have the same bike and im having a hell of a time wondering why its keep bogging going into 1st.... thinking it may be a clutch issue. love the videos man. i have learned a lot! keep it going!
Check the little arm that connects to the push rod. It can wear out
You could also try moving the needle down 1 clip
my kx125 was doing this till i found out my carb float was stuck and flooding my bike, maybe check that out
it idles and revs fine tho. it will red out no problem. @@Ace.inc200
ill give that a shot and see what happens
right now its all factory specs.
@@hhstarwars
Gaskets...what a waste of money...doh! Your perseverance and attitude are commendable.
Also it would be a good idea to use blue thread locker on the screws you removed in the power valve. Better safe than sorry.
Even though that spot is outside the o-ring it's probably allowing it to flex just enough to leak
As many as you come out way ahead on, taking a beating occasionally comes with the territory. You do a great job, and it is interesting to see the mistakes people make while working on stuff when going in for repairs. Wish you would let bikes and quads warm up just a little more , before revving it so much.
That cylinder is toast. The outer seal needs to deform between the head and the cylinder. This is super too bad man. Nice vid - keep it up.
36:24 a easy way to get grips on us to take a blow nozzle with a thin tube and insert it in the grip. Blow air into it as you push the grip on and it will slip right on easy peezy.
I clean my parts much more than you do. I need it looking like new when it goes back together, but you do you. JB Weld the tiny hole and the cylinder near the head. It should hold. It isn't in a stress area.
Slide that wheel forward and take a link out. No way to adjust it now with chain stretch. Just a hint for the future.
I give you props for taking on such basket cases. You will be able to get your money back out of this thing.
Love your videos. I watched them all the time.
I would stop using grease in between the air filter box in the air filter itself. Overtime that grease will attract dirt and sand and as you remove the air filter it can fall into the airbox and make its way into the engine.
I just spray extra filter oil around the seal and that does the trick.
New to the channel and love the content. I used to buy and fix up Atv’s about 15 years ago and loved it. This is inspiring me to get back into it again!
WOW, top end and water pump rebuild with the engine in the frame, with hand tools. You sir are a champ, I would have lost half the bolts and washers, broke a couple bolts, 3 or 4 stitches and the piston rings would have shot off somewhere in the garage, piston would have binded and it wouldnt have kicked over.
You powered through and still have to deal with a stupid welded head! Great work! Very impressive!
It's possible that there is porosity under the weld next to the cylinder head causing the top leak. You do have a pinhole in the weld lower on the cylinder jacket as you observed. The o-ring in the outer groove in the cylinder at the head might be sealing fine, the groove bottom may be OK, but the weld under it may have a second pinhole into the water jacket. I'd suggest finding a used cylinder / jacket, cause that weld is real iffy. Cheers!
I have confidence you’ll figure that leak out asap or already have with all the comments. Keep plugging away, Kickin ass and taking names. 👊🏻
That's a bodge weld,it's probably still pourous& finding the weak spot,coolant sealer in the rad mix might sort it rather than a new barrel.
Joe your not shy spending money on your projects I’m the same do it right and don’t cut corners love ya videos nice to watch with a few toastiest and a large cup of tea 👍
Maybe the JB Weld on the top of the cylinder is protruding just a tad and prevent the head to sit and crush the o-ring properly. You may try to use a flat file to check if it's not protruding.
The weld is holding the head cover up so it is not sealing down. Grind the weld down so the top fits flat. From what I can see anyway.
I think its time for you to get a motorcycle lift good sir. I finally picked mine up last night after my 9th bike, no idea why I waited so damn long
I need one to just keep putting it off looking at the tusk scissor lift for about 230 bucks just not sure if it will lift my 98 kx250 it says it only lifts 300 pounds
@rockman49er grabbed a used HF one for 200 bucks on marketplace..hard to beat
@ShotgunSsergio what's HF stand for lol what kind of lift is it
@@rockman49er harbor frieght motorcycle lift/table
@@ShotgunSsergio ok thanks
the oring has nothing to push against. It can expand outward out the crack as well as against the head. so it has less sealing force in that spot
Cringe at the running in process, very first start should be at idle till engine warms up then left to cool down to bed the piston and rings in, followed by a mid rev cycle and a high rev cycle. These days tolerance is so good it will only reduce the total life of the engine by a few 100 hours but still worth doing right. Other than that great vid once again sir :)
Great video, always a learning moment. Your patience and knowledge continue to astound me. Keep up the hard work
Dude told him it had issues 🤷🏻♂️ not the sellers fault the buyer isn’t skilled enough to repair the issue, this guy is a child, he has minimal experience and gets lucky sometimes. But his rebuild practices are sloppy and dirty at best
@@ni_wink84quick and dirty
@@ni_wink84who’s forcing you to watch his channel tho? Go find something you want to watch or upload your own stuff and get roasted in your comments ✌️
@@AnonaMoose-l3m hard not to want to see a train wreck, same reason people watch disasters, just want to see how bad it can actually be.
First American I see who does not war earmuffs, eyeprotection and 3 pairs of gloves while working on a bike. A real mechanic. 👍
Please don't miss 2nd gear in this video!!!!
I don't know if he doesn't understand how the transmission shifts or is he just scared. I don't think he is any good at coordinating a shift.. there are some bikes he will just leave it in one gear and drive it around to keep from having to shift it
When you were removing the power valves, it looked like there was a repair made to the cylinder (weld or some metal-impregnated epoxy). Just thought you should check that.
Joe it's a damn shame there are so many liars, scammers.., out there.
You have the right attitude when it comes to dealing with these jack wipes!
Keep doing what you are doing, a caring attitude, quality work and entertainment (Vinny) as well, and a passion to do things right.
Your fans are with you!
Allan in Columbia, SC
Looked like porosity in the welds.
A tip for getting on grips, put some rubbing alcohol down the inside of the grip before you put it on, slide the grip on and then the rubbing alcohol dries in like 20s. Used this for all my bmx bikes Lol
Copper head gasket sealant. I use that and reuse old head gaskets!!! Never be as a failure yet. Get the kind in a can with a ball aplicator in the cap.
Hi mate just get the hole in the head welded and that dip in the head built up with weld good job otherwise keep bringing these old bikes back good to watch take care.
I don't really trust those Power valve screws,... I would've used a little Lok-Tite on them. Great video Joe~
Wrong spark plug cap. That is for a 4 stroke ohm cap.
Read a shop book it will say 5 ohm cap. Pull a cap off 1 of your other bikes you should get 13.5 to 14 ohm with the right cap on it And that's why it lugs on the start
And you use 80, 100, 120 grit when you slid your head on glass. Pop head off and see if there is a pin hole up top in Weld.
I'm dealing with the same thing on a kx100. 2018
I’ve watched too many of your videos… I randomly blurt out: “Ok, got the carb all cleaned out…” Good stuff!
You should look into why your so shaky! Love your work brother !
It's funny because it looks like you already owned and worked on it. All that hackery is right up your alley joe.
Always bring the compression tester with and test before you buy, or don't buy it. A buyer always should pre check out, compression before purchase. Know when to walk away and say no. Or offer less, they say no, walk away.
Nope you need What's called A wedge seal that's rectangular shaped that's made in A mold for that spot.or get some right stuff sealant to fill in that spot with instead Joe.
Hi, excellent work again !
For this time, I got a trick for you !
For easier handle grip installation, spay brake cleaner in the new grip and hurry to put it on his final position... way more easier because the brake cleaner act as a lub :-) and when it evaporates, it wont move anymore
Hope this help :-)
Bro your one of the best on youtube with motorcycles/atvs.cant stop watching you keep up the awesome videos
Cylinder could be warped. And most likely cracked from the inside. Need a new cylinder imo
Gotta love when parts go rolling. Such a pain in the yass!
Really should use honing solution. It works ok with oil so cool!!!
new cylinder; i think the outside o-ring is deforming into that chip on the cylinder....thus the leak. maybe.
Gonna be seriously nippy when all problems ironed out👍sweet!
Dunno why but I really enjoy your little videos
That weld repair is right on the sealing surface for the outer o-ring. I doubt a thicker o-ring will work. It needs to be built up and machined down.
Just clean that edge up on the top of that cylinder j b weld All you need is for it to hold The Oring in place
That is a really easy fix Clean The little pinhole With a diagrander and j b weld
Looks like porosity in that weld from poor metal prep. The outside of the o-ring groove looks to be missing some metal enough that the o-ring can’t seal against it to pressurize without leaking.
The o-ring Grove is melted because of the weld. The cylinder is trash now. Maybe you can build it up with jb weld and Dremel the groove back in.
Looks like one of the power valve springs was installed incorrectly on the shaft. Go back and check the video. That could also be causing the bogging problem along with a carb adjustment.
Runs good, love it!! Nice work Joe.
Is there no torque for the cylinder bolts?
Tig weld the small hole and the dip is the o ring mounting groove you may need to just have it tog welded up and have it milled to deck it and then have the groove remilled in to it at proper depth
Bad news, previous owner lied his ass off.
Good news, we got two great videos!
Great work!
Good job Joe, very informative - you make it look easy.
Wiseco always puts out the best materials 🙌🏻
Try a little hair spray on those new grips. Helps them to slip on easy and lock tight.
take the head to a machine shop to have it mic'd to look for low spot near gasket , TIG weld the spot down lower to fill in the small hole , might only need to be arc'd once .
Love listening while i start my day at work
Hi there when ya did water pump seal the spring part of seal should of gone bearing side so the spring part doesn't rust like the one you took off did...
Guys use red loctite on power valve screws an if you use gasket maker on a 2stroke engine make sure it’s moto seal it’s fuel resistant 😅
I revamped a 2003 YZ250 2-stroke and its power valve had problems. The bolts holding the power valve dropped out. One just simply fell to the floor of the power valve assembly area. But one somehow sled all the way down the channel on the side down to the power valve itself. That poor bike could not get out of its own way. But once I had a new piston and rings and the power valve redone, that bike ran like a demon.
You really need to buy yourself a set of ratcheting wrench’s there the bomb
Calls for crisscross pattern on head nuts and then torques one side first. :P
Oring needs to be supported by the cylinder material all the way around. It's no coincidence that it's leaking at the weld right by where there is material missing. :)
I dont know if it's just the video but I would be inclined to say it still has a jetting problem. That bog on bottom end isn't normal. sounds lean to me. it runs like an old 80cc bike or something. I would throw a JD jet kit in for your elevation and see if that wakes it up. re pack the muffler and seal the header pipe at the cylinder. I think it will be a whole different beast after that.
The bog is from air sucking into the cylinder from that damaged area near the gasket
Looking at the cylinder where it is leaking it doesn't look flat you could remove the studs and the cylinder and samd it flat to see if that sorts it or best bet is a new cylinder as that would remove any structural issues the cylinder has
When they tig welded the cylinder they should have stacked the weld up a bit more and re machined the o ring groove and decked it. As far as the weld on the casting where the power valve is they just left a crater and a pinhole because they didn’t add a last dab of filler when they terminated the weld. The previous owner probably went with the cheapest bid to do the repair.
Does appear the o-ring groove is distorted in the area of the weld. Right fix would be to reweld and remachine the groove and resurface the cylinder deck.. Hope you can find an easier less expensive solution. Thicker o-ring is probably worth a try first. Many things wrong with this bike the previous owner had to know about. People get odd and adjust their morals when money is involved. Hopefully the seller sees this video and revisits his conduct.
Grips can be easily removed and installed with compressed air.
you should always check the flatness of the cylinder and head before putting it back together. Get a Tig and learn how to weld aluminum !!
The weld may be leaking there on top. A little bit of JB Weld might work.
Get yourself a High Pressure blast cabinet get these parts looks A1