I came here to figure out just how difficult this might be for me, being a dude with minimal tools and minimal mechanical skill. Thanks for explaining everything so clearly. This is gonna have to be a job I'll have my Miata guy do for me. Keep up the good work! Thanks for the content.
I haven’t even watched the whole video yet and i am loving this! My half shaft is stuck in the hub, i tried beating on it with a bfh. Said screw it and went and bought a 20 ton press.
couple of tips. press the shaft out before taking the hub loose from the suspension. put a jack under the control arm before trying to take the top hub bolt out. if all else fails, add lots of heat.
Love the 'this is real stuff folks' approach! This video has really good info! Thanks! I was looking for the list of tools used at the end of the video, but I didn't see anything. I was particularly interested in the Milwaukee impact drill. Any info or thoughts on the drill, please share. Thanks!
Thanks Robert! I try to show my struggles! Here is the impact I use: amzn.to/3dU7WRa It is truly a beast. I need to update some of my older videos with part numbers
Great comment - I definitely should have put a jack under the lower knuckle, and didn't, as you could tell :) The suspension is so worn on my miata that it is possible to compress the rear spring with my hand to get the holes to align. But, on a bigger vehicle or a vehicle with better suspension I could have easily stripped/damaged that lower knuckle bolt if I did not do as you suggest
Unbelivable! A good example of why you should take this job to someone properly equipped to do it -- i.e. with a 20 tonne press. It would have saved loads of time and would have been cheaper after buying a new driveshaft due to mullering the original! The correct way to remove an ABS reluctor ring is to drill a couple of holes between two teeth - then it just snaps as you tap it off. And I ain't even a mechanic!
Excellent video, you're very careful to explain as you go. I'm at the getting the hub out of the bearing and the jack stands are a great idea.. My only problem with this entire procedure is destroying and not replacing the dust shield.
Around 7:35 you talked about how using old lug nuts for the puller cause it messes them up, but does it also mess up the actual studs too? I’m stuck trying to jam my axles back in/the driveshaft is seized to the diff which wasn’t realized until after I pulled the trans out doing a kswap lmao.
Hello, very informative video btw ;). I have got the same issue. The problem is that I need my MX-5 for atleast 4 days a week to be able to drive.... Is it possible to drive my mx-5 for the upcomming week while waiting for the parts to arrive? Thanks in advance!
I am doing the same job, using your video as a guide (thanks for the video!). Taking apart my hub, I realized the stock bearing is two pieces, where the bearing facing the hub is open and the balls spin directly on the curved surface of the hub. The new parts I ordered from your link and shown in this video are a one piece bearing. The hub doesn't have the curved surface. Is this considered an upgrade for the rear hub assembly? Seems like sealed bearing and fewer parts can only be better?
Hi! Good observation! The new bearing is not an upgrade to my knowledge. I think it is just an OEM equivalent replacement. I think it is just a "sealed" unit probably for ease of storage, shipping, installation (and perhaps removal). Were you able to get the new bearing pressed in okay?
Good work love the intro. You know how you put the tyre under the car maybe tell people why you did it. Lots don't know why you do this and maybe some editing in the back end overlaying your voice as to what your doing. Adds more content like a running commentary 👍 hope the channel works out in subscribing
what i'm noticing all around me is that people are way too shy to use the blowtorch. it has helped me loosen more stuck bolts than my breaker bar and my (electric) impact gun together. on some jobs i even use it preemptively. like wheel studs. never had one put up a fight
I use the blowtorch a lot too. But sometimes I'm concerned that there are rubber/plastic parts too close. Many people are using "induction heaters" nowadays, might be giving that a try soon
Hello. You should not need an alignment after the wheel bearing/hub/CV. But, I am making a video where I upgrade the suspension/sway bars, and that will definitely require an alignment!
Good question lol. The manual that came with the CV axle said to remove it if the miata has no ABS. But, in hindsight I do not think you need to. Although, it is a few grams of unsprung weight reduction :)
@@EnigmaEngineering hi, yeah made a big slide hammer using a piece of scaffolding pole, but it didn't budge! Took the hub to a mate at a garage, they said "oh we'll get it out with a hammer in a vice, never not been able to nock one out in 20 years of doing the job", surprise surprise, they couldn't budge it, not even with a sledge hammer! Luckily they had a 10 ton press that just managed to do the job! Was a right bitch though!
WOW, how not to replace a wheel bearing unless you are in the middle of nowhere. Really dude? This is your idea of an instructional video. Who hammers on the threaded end of suspension bolts? Next time you might want to call it how to butcher your wheel bearing install.
I applaud the producer/DYI Mechanic. Very real presentation. Great inside and advice.
Thank you for the compliment David.
I came here to figure out just how difficult this might be for me, being a dude with minimal tools and minimal mechanical skill. Thanks for explaining everything so clearly. This is gonna have to be a job I'll have my Miata guy do for me.
Keep up the good work! Thanks for the content.
I haven’t even watched the whole video yet and i am loving this! My half shaft is stuck in the hub, i tried beating on it with a bfh. Said screw it and went and bought a 20 ton press.
dude thank you so much for making this the way you did
couple of tips. press the shaft out before taking the hub loose from the suspension. put a jack under the control arm before trying to take the top hub bolt out. if all else fails, add lots of heat.
Good video. Would recommend that when installing the axle to make sure the c clip that the circle part of the c clip is facing down.
Thank you!
Love the 'this is real stuff folks' approach! This video has really good info! Thanks! I was looking for the list of tools used at the end of the video, but I didn't see anything. I was particularly interested in the Milwaukee impact drill. Any info or thoughts on the drill, please share. Thanks!
Thanks Robert! I try to show my struggles! Here is the impact I use: amzn.to/3dU7WRa It is truly a beast. I need to update some of my older videos with part numbers
You need a jack under the lower arms to help with the falling weight of the arms so bolts don't bind up
Great comment - I definitely should have put a jack under the lower knuckle, and didn't, as you could tell :) The suspension is so worn on my miata that it is possible to compress the rear spring with my hand to get the holes to align. But, on a bigger vehicle or a vehicle with better suspension I could have easily stripped/damaged that lower knuckle bolt if I did not do as you suggest
2 min in an I'm subscribed. Love your philosophy.
Thank you Isaac!
Unbelivable!
A good example of why you should take this job to someone properly equipped to do it -- i.e. with a 20 tonne press.
It would have saved loads of time and would have been cheaper after buying a new driveshaft due to mullering the original!
The correct way to remove an ABS reluctor ring is to drill a couple of holes between two teeth - then it just snaps as you tap it off.
And I ain't even a mechanic!
Had almost same if not exactly same tools this is a major pain I am 3 days in have alot more parts to replace... mine was way more stubborn!
Excellent video, you're very careful to explain as you go. I'm at the getting the hub out of the bearing and the jack stands are a great idea.. My only problem with this entire procedure is destroying and not replacing the dust shield.
Thank you for the comment Michael. The destruction of the dust shield really bothered me too! I try to always stick with OE parts/setup if possible
Congrats. Totally like your approach..!!
Very detailed video! I'm thinking I should probably explain more in my videos.
I am looking forward to doing my next repair video, I have to get on your level!
Awesome video, super helpful
Around 7:35 you talked about how using old lug nuts for the puller cause it messes them up, but does it also mess up the actual studs too? I’m stuck trying to jam my axles back in/the driveshaft is seized to the diff which wasn’t realized until after I pulled the trans out doing a kswap lmao.
Hello, very informative video btw ;). I have got the same issue. The problem is that I need my MX-5 for atleast 4 days a week to be able to drive.... Is it possible to drive my mx-5 for the upcomming week while waiting for the parts to arrive? Thanks in advance!
Man I do not know. Wheel bearing failures can be really sketchy! If you have to drive, go slow, be careful, and listen carefully
I am doing the same job, using your video as a guide (thanks for the video!). Taking apart my hub, I realized the stock bearing is two pieces, where the bearing facing the hub is open and the balls spin directly on the curved surface of the hub. The new parts I ordered from your link and shown in this video are a one piece bearing. The hub doesn't have the curved surface. Is this considered an upgrade for the rear hub assembly? Seems like sealed bearing and fewer parts can only be better?
Hi! Good observation! The new bearing is not an upgrade to my knowledge. I think it is just an OEM equivalent replacement. I think it is just a "sealed" unit probably for ease of storage, shipping, installation (and perhaps removal). Were you able to get the new bearing pressed in okay?
@@EnigmaEngineering yeah it went in perfectly and is driving well. Thanks again for the video
Would that first stuck bolt be easier to remove if you lifted up just a bit on the hub, to remove the weight from it?
And the sescond bolt.
Good work love the intro. You know how you put the tyre under the car maybe tell people why you did it. Lots don't know why you do this and maybe some editing in the back end overlaying your voice as to what your doing. Adds more content like a running commentary 👍 hope the channel works out in subscribing
Thank you for the comments. I'll be improving future videos with some better audio and a shop we're building just for new projects!
Have you never heard of chasing a bolt with something like a big Phillips head to drive out the bolts?
Thank you
No problem
Did this along with poly diff mounts, never again...
what i'm noticing all around me is that people are way too shy to use the blowtorch. it has helped me loosen more stuck bolts than my breaker bar and my (electric) impact gun together. on some jobs i even use it preemptively. like wheel studs. never had one put up a fight
I use the blowtorch a lot too. But sometimes I'm concerned that there are rubber/plastic parts too close. Many people are using "induction heaters" nowadays, might be giving that a try soon
I destroyed my hub puller. Where did you purchase yours??
amzn.to/2XWUOm9
CV axel removal same steps for the na? :)
I think so!
Proper tools will make the hub come apart easier. I would have used a better puller and a 1/2" pneumatic gun to remove it.
Thanks Bob. Good suggestion. I want to try a hub grappler next time I do this!
Hi, I may have missed this but did you need an alignment after doing this?
Hello. You should not need an alignment after the wheel bearing/hub/CV. But, I am making a video where I upgrade the suspension/sway bars, and that will definitely require an alignment!
@@EnigmaEngineering Thanks!
nice vids man. thanks
Thanks. I appreciate it
Quick question , why remove abs ring is this needed for non abs Miata or can you just leave on?
Good question lol. The manual that came with the CV axle said to remove it if the miata has no ABS. But, in hindsight I do not think you need to. Although, it is a few grams of unsprung weight reduction :)
At least now, I know where to start
what grease did u use on the axel and do i have to use it
I think I might have put some synthetic grease on it just to help it go in, but it is unnecessary
On that stubborn bolt next time take the weight off of it with a jack
Just take it to a machine shop and have them press it out.
Going to be doing this tomorrow.. think I need to find a slide hammer from somewhere...
Did you find a slide hammer? Did it help?
@@EnigmaEngineering hi, yeah made a big slide hammer using a piece of scaffolding pole, but it didn't budge! Took the hub to a mate at a garage, they said "oh we'll get it out with a hammer in a vice, never not been able to nock one out in 20 years of doing the job", surprise surprise, they couldn't budge it, not even with a sledge hammer! Luckily they had a 10 ton press that just managed to do the job! Was a right bitch though!
@@jmpcrx Ha ha. Excellent story. Glad you got it out finally!
i cant watch the rest of this. dude you're hammering on bolt ends and pulling bolts under spring pressure.
You should see what I do to it on the race track
WOW, how not to replace a wheel bearing unless you are in the middle of nowhere. Really dude? This is your idea of an instructional video. Who hammers on the threaded end of suspension bolts? Next time you might want to call it how to butcher your wheel bearing install.