I never comment on videos, but your explanation was great - took me 4 years to finally decide to fix my emergency brake, and only about 30 minutes to actually do it! Thanks for making such a great tutorial!
Miata man you have been an underrated miata mechanic here on youtube awesome videos for non mechanics like us that want to learn proper upkeep of our old miatas ❤️
Just amazing... Saved me a whole lot of headache. Just couldn't adjust the new calliper to get it to bite. Stumbled on your adjuster video. Took up the slack and hey presto a great handbrake operation. Thanks so much!!!
Hey , thank you so much for the video❤in our case the e brake was stuck on the driver side, as soon as I touched it , it released back, we already bought brand new caliper, so we installed the brand new one, thanks to your video adjusting the e brake was a breeze❤.I think the gears on the inside were on their way out but I would never think/guess I would have to loosen that screw to push back the caliper when just doing the pads, so I would screw it up just by trying to replace the pads, so thanks again for the video❤👌👍
Thank you and I want to refer this video to our mechanic that seemingly can't get it right. When you say the gears are stripped what gears are stripped so I can convey that to him. Thanks a million it's my daughter's car I would really appreciate it.
You are welcome 👍 Sometimes the internal gears ⚙️ of the rear calliper get stripped or won’t hold an adjustment. In other cases, the teeth on the adjuster barrel become stripped.
Incredibly helpful for my 5.0 miata. My hydro hand brake that’s a pass through isn’t locking the wheels with brand new calipers this is definitely gonna be the fix good video man
Okay, so if I am going to replace the rear pads and rotors on my 2005 NB with the big sport brake rotors + calipers, I'm gonna wanna fully loosen the hex screw with the handbrake disengaged before removing the caliper and pads? Then fully tighten the hex and loosen until I can turn the rotor?
Absolutely correct 👍 If you force the poison back on the rear callipers, it will damage the internal adjustment gears ⚙️. The pistons have to be wound back manually using the adjuster barrel/bolt.
So ive spun my bolt out and it wasnt giving me enough room, i kept spinning it and it made a pop sound and the piston no longer movesand the screw came out, this has happened on 2 calipers now what am i doing wrong???
Hi! My 1999 Mazda 626 have almost the same rear caliper. I replaced both, the bleed was ok but the hand brake does not work properly, Maybe needs to be adjusted from the bolt? Thanks for your help.
Well I never been told about that bolt/screw Iv a Mazda rx8 and stuck rear piston can’t find any information about the hand brake cables to remove so I can rebuild the caliper new piston and paint Just thinking this would be the same set up
You can, but be really careful - you can strip the teeth of the adjuster screw if you wrench on it too hard. If the piston is seized badly you are better off unscrewing it by turning the piston itself using grips.
You can purchase a new adjustment barrel from Mazda. The old one will usually come out easily if you insert the hex head tool and push it to one side while removing it. Usually, the adjustment barrel will come right out with it. With all that said, if your adjustment barrel is stripped, your calliper is probably seized up.
Hey quick question idk when you’ll see this but recently my Miata was running double spacers (previous owner) and I took the double spacers off however doing so my left rear break locked up. Idk if it was due to the ebrake or the caliper itself. We’re thinking it’s the ebrake but unsure it’s only that wheel
Hey, I replaced my brake caliper and put it back together, now the brake fluid is leaking between the caliper and the brake hose bypass (the little pipe that goes into the caliper behind the bolt). Do you have any idea what goes wrong?
The brakes were replaced on my 91 right before I bought it. I adjust the handbrake properly, and it is good for about 20 miles. Then it will not hold. I have adjusted it probably 6 times with the same result. Is it possible the previous owner stripped the gears for the adjusters?
I am currently running into an issue where I release the parking break my right rear rotor won't turn. I thought it was my brake caliper piston getting stuck and I used your method to set the tension. I'm not sure why my e-brake is locking my rotor in place when I release the e-brake.
@@MiataMan turns out it was my brake booster. The adjustable rod in the center was incorrectly set and ultimately caused the booster to catastrophicly fail. There was constant pressure being applied to all four calipers. I put in the old booster and it worked because I did not adjust the rod.
i have only one wheel working with hand brake the other wheel after I checked it everything is working and seems ok but no brake at all shall I adjust it like that to work again?
Even after loosening mine 10+ turns the piston will not retract. The teeth on the of the spined piece the Allen key goes into look good. It seems like i can hear and feel the gears tighten up but not loosen. Currently have a clamp on it to no avail. Is their something I’m missing? The ebrake is released
Hi mate did you manage to sort this? How did you do it? Got thus very problem. Think the internal mechanism has siezed up looking at the state of the caliper itself
@@MiataMan thanks, went threw 5 dr rear caliper from o rally s,,( new), stay away from these, cheaply made,,they stripped the adjuster inside there,,is why I couldn’t adjust it
Could be an internal problem with the adjuster gears ⚙️ in the rear callipers. The gears get damaged if the piston is forced back manually. Could have been done before you got the car. Try re-adjusting and see how hold it holds for.
@@MiataMan Thanks your reply! Yes, he did. Actually, the brake pads were replaced by my mechanic, and his has fixed again the loosened problem, just after his fixed it twice, the loosened problem happens again. But he said, he can try to tighten the wire all the way through from the handbrake grip because he hadn't adjusted it when he replaceed rear brake pads. Is that the problem from?
So after adjusting the ebrake like this on the miata I drove it around that day, everything worked properly. I parked it for 2 days and came out to drive the car, released the ebrake and its driving as though it's still engaged. Any tips?
It sounds like your calliper is seized. You may be able to save it by winding the adjuster barrel all the way in then all the way out a few times. This should move the piston in and out and hopefully allow it to move freely from then on. Before you start, clean the rubber seal around the piston to remove sand and grit. You may want to apply some silicone grease to repel moisture. I like the “Kleen-Flo Eze Slide” synthetic dielectric grease. You can also try to lift the edge of the seal and spray some penetrating oil in. Be careful not to tear the seal.
Timothy Strunk The hex bits will likely have an H in front of the size. For example “H4”. Anything that has a T is a Torx bit and is not a hex bit. You have to use either a 4mm hex bit or the equivalent SAE size mentioned in my first reply.
Very good point. Especially if someone has messed with the cable adjuster previously. You need to back-off the cable adjuster at the e-brake handle before adjusting the callipers.
@@MiataManif the handbrake cable adjuster has been tampered with before, would you recommend loosening the cable pretty much all the way, then start adjusting the calipers?
I did everything correctly and now brake fluid is leaking from the caliper adjuster and the adjuster itself has no residtance at all and turns freely. Do i need a caliper rebuild or can i fix this somehow?
This is better than I thought it'd be, short, explains everything nicely, shows you how to do it properly.
Thanks 🙏
I never comment on videos, but your explanation was great - took me 4 years to finally decide to fix my emergency brake, and only about 30 minutes to actually do it! Thanks for making such a great tutorial!
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to leave a kind comment 😊🙏
Miata man you have been an underrated miata mechanic here on youtube awesome videos for non mechanics like us that want to learn proper upkeep of our old miatas ❤️
Thank you so much 🙏
Just amazing... Saved me a whole lot of headache. Just couldn't adjust the new calliper to get it to bite. Stumbled on your adjuster video. Took up the slack and hey presto a great handbrake operation. Thanks so much!!!
The shop I went to replaced my rear calipers & forgot to tighten this adjuster screw. Thanks for this video. Also applies to Mazda Protege5
Thank goodness for technology of the Internet and those of you who are willing to educate us all.
A great video - clear explanation and easily followed. Didn't realise until now just how important it was to slack off that bolt.
Wow. Tomorrow is my brake job and I had no idea. Thank you.
Hey , thank you so much for the video❤in our case the e brake was stuck on the driver side, as soon as I touched it , it released back, we already bought brand new caliper, so we installed the brand new one, thanks to your video adjusting the e brake was a breeze❤.I think the gears on the inside were on their way out but I would never think/guess I would have to loosen that screw to push back the caliper when just doing the pads, so I would screw it up just by trying to replace the pads, so thanks again for the video❤👌👍
Thank you and I want to refer this video to our mechanic that seemingly can't get it right. When you say the gears are stripped what gears are stripped so I can convey that to him. Thanks a million it's my daughter's car I would really appreciate it.
You are welcome 👍
Sometimes the internal gears ⚙️ of the rear calliper get stripped or won’t hold an adjustment.
In other cases, the teeth on the adjuster barrel become stripped.
thank you for this clear video, helped me no end
Thanks for such a clear explanation
well done on the good lighting
Thanks for the help, great instructional video. 👍👍👍
Excellent procedure review. Thank you.
This came in clutch thank you man!
Very nicely done! Helped us make quick work on our 90. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
thanks! this saved my life.
Thanks !!! For the very valuable information 💥🛠
Excellent. Thanks mate. Off to do this now...
Great video thanks as I had not got a clue y piston wad not go back and no handbrake Thank U
very nicely done, thanks
Very helpful. Thanks!
Nicely done!
THANK YOU !!!! MAN' S JOB EXPLANATION !!!
You're welcome!
Great explanation
Great video!! Thanks
Good I needed this vid
Love your voice man, videos are too quality too 👌🏻
Thanks 🙏 😎
Incredibly helpful for my 5.0 miata. My hydro hand brake that’s a pass through isn’t locking the wheels with brand new calipers this is definitely gonna be the fix good video man
5.0 Miata? Tell me more 😍
Your….. your what ?💀
Thank you!
Thank you sir 🫡
Okay, so if I am going to replace the rear pads and rotors on my 2005 NB with the big sport brake rotors + calipers, I'm gonna wanna fully loosen the hex screw with the handbrake disengaged before removing the caliper and pads? Then fully tighten the hex and loosen until I can turn the rotor?
Thanks I thought I had a ceased caliper 😂
Backing the adjuster bolt out gives you the gap you need for new pads. You don't need to "push the piston back" like you do on the front brakes.
Absolutely correct 👍
If you force the poison back on the rear callipers, it will damage the internal adjustment gears ⚙️. The pistons have to be wound back manually using the adjuster barrel/bolt.
So ive spun my bolt out and it wasnt giving me enough room, i kept spinning it and it made a pop sound and the piston no longer movesand the screw came out, this has happened on 2 calipers now what am i doing wrong???
@@TankPlayz hey yeah this is what I'm going through now too, I have no idea if I'm screwing something up or not
@@danieldelira1417 I bought a set of good used and realized once it stops wanting to spin itll squish in
Hi! My 1999 Mazda 626 have almost the same rear caliper. I replaced both, the bleed was ok but the hand brake does not work properly, Maybe needs to be adjusted from the bolt? Thanks for your help.
Super! ;)
Very helpful thank you
Anyone have any idea how to untighten it after over tightening to the point where it goes over the teeth?
Well I never been told about that bolt/screw Iv a Mazda rx8 and stuck rear piston can’t find any information about the hand brake cables to remove so I can rebuild the caliper new piston and paint Just thinking this would be the same set up
Can I use this to unseiz the caliper after handbreak being left on too long? Great vid btw, clear instruction and nice video!
Worth a shot. You may have coax the piston back in with a clamp 🗜 while you loosen the adjuster barrel.
You can, but be really careful - you can strip the teeth of the adjuster screw if you wrench on it too hard. If the piston is seized badly you are better off unscrewing it by turning the piston itself using grips.
Yeah now you appear in my suggestions 6 weeks after i brayed the 'seized' piston back with a lump hammer.
Thanks o
So what is that lil piece called inside mine got rounded and I can’t move the piston anymore or would I have to get a whole new piece
Very helpful! The problem I have is the 4mm hex head is knackered so the bit just spins inside there. Any tips?
You can purchase a new adjustment barrel from Mazda. The old one will usually come out easily if you insert the hex head tool and push it to one side while removing it. Usually, the adjustment barrel will come right out with it. With all that said, if your adjustment barrel is stripped, your calliper is probably seized up.
You can use the one from the other side.
Hey quick question idk when you’ll see this but recently my Miata was running double spacers (previous owner) and I took the double spacers off however doing so my left rear break locked up. Idk if it was due to the ebrake or the caliper itself. We’re thinking it’s the ebrake but unsure it’s only that wheel
It’s mostly likely a seized rear calliper. Quite common.
My adjuster screw came out and it doesn’t do anything just keeps turning??
Hey, I replaced my brake caliper and put it back together, now the brake fluid is leaking between the caliper and the brake hose bypass (the little pipe that goes into the caliper behind the bolt). Do you have any idea what goes wrong?
Forget your washers?
looking for a replacement bolt.... that one that you are working with in this video... any help would be appreciated.... thank you
Your local Mazda dealer should be able to provide it to you. The parts department will have access to almost everything.
parking brake what is the adjustment procedure
The brakes were replaced on my 91 right before I bought it. I adjust the handbrake properly, and it is good for about 20 miles. Then it will not hold. I have adjusted it probably 6 times with the same result. Is it possible the previous owner stripped the gears for the adjusters?
Most likely an internal gear ⚙️ problem.
Brute force may have been used to retract the pistons.
I am currently running into an issue where I release the parking break my right rear rotor won't turn. I thought it was my brake caliper piston getting stuck and I used your method to set the tension. I'm not sure why my e-brake is locking my rotor in place when I release the e-brake.
It’s either a seized calliper or a seized cable.
@@MiataMan turns out it was my brake booster. The adjustable rod in the center was incorrectly set and ultimately caused the booster to catastrophicly fail. There was constant pressure being applied to all four calipers. I put in the old booster and it worked because I did not adjust the rod.
What do you do if it is seized up? Because I can’t get the 4mm Allen key out because it’s stuck activated
Time to get a remanufactured/new calliper.
I did this and when I drove the car the brakes were smoking and the wheels were really hot. Did I do somethingh wrong?
What grease do you use on the ears of the brake pads?
I like to use Kleen Flow “EZ Slide” silicone grease.
i have only one wheel working with hand brake the other wheel after I checked it everything is working and seems ok but no brake at all shall I adjust it like that to work again?
As long as you calliper is not seized up, the adjustment should work 👍
Even after loosening mine 10+ turns the piston will not retract. The teeth on the of the spined piece the Allen key goes into look good. It seems like i can hear and feel the gears tighten up but not loosen. Currently have a clamp on it to no avail. Is their something I’m missing? The ebrake is released
Hi mate did you manage to sort this? How did you do it? Got thus very problem. Think the internal mechanism has siezed up looking at the state of the caliper itself
@@adamg8554 truthfully man i ended up having to buy a completely new caliper. New caliper made it a breeze
Did you guys have the cap removed from brake fluid reservoir?
Does this need to be done at both calipers to tighten the handbrake?
Good question. Yes 👍
Both sides need to be adjusted.
For a new caliper do need to put fluid in before you mess with adjuster?
I always bleed the system first, then adjust the calliper.
@@MiataMan thanks, went threw 5 dr rear caliper from o rally s,,( new), stay away from these, cheaply made,,they stripped the adjuster inside there,,is why I couldn’t adjust it
So if the allen head screw just turns infinitely the the mechanism is stripped I suppose?
Most likely stripped.
what if i cant move this liitle gear.. i dont wanna break the teeth of it. do i have to dismount it completly?
If the gear won’t turn, the caller is likely seized and should be replaced.
Do both rears have the parking brake connection or just one side?
Both rear callipers have parking brake cables attached to them.
@@MiataMan thanks … I wonder if that’s the same with my 93 Mercury capri xr2?
I sure miss the Circus Dog in the opening segment !
My Miata loosens my hand brake again from replace new rear brake pads 3 weeks ago. I have no idea which part has problems.
Could be an internal problem with the adjuster gears ⚙️ in the rear callipers. The gears get damaged if the piston is forced back manually. Could have been done before you got the car.
Try re-adjusting and see how hold it holds for.
@@MiataMan Thanks your reply!
Yes, he did. Actually, the brake pads were replaced by my mechanic, and his has fixed again the loosened problem, just after his fixed it twice, the loosened problem happens again. But he said, he can try to tighten the wire all the way through from the handbrake grip because he hadn't adjusted it when he replaceed rear brake pads. Is that the problem from?
So after adjusting the ebrake like this on the miata I drove it around that day, everything worked properly. I parked it for 2 days and came out to drive the car, released the ebrake and its driving as though it's still engaged. Any tips?
It sounds like your calliper is seized. You may be able to save it by winding the adjuster barrel all the way in then all the way out a few times. This should move the piston in and out and hopefully allow it to move freely from then on. Before you start, clean the rubber seal around the piston to remove sand and grit.
You may want to apply some silicone grease to repel moisture. I like the “Kleen-Flo Eze Slide” synthetic dielectric grease. You can also try to lift the edge of the seal and spray some penetrating oil in.
Be careful not to tear the seal.
@@MiataMan would this sound like slight disc rubbing? I thinking I have to back mine off slightly, or I have a piston failing.
What if I pull it out completely
Removing the adjuster barrel completely will not solve the issue of seized / sticking callipers.
So what hex bit size is that? Or was it a star socket
Timothy Strunk... 4mm (5/32) hex bit. You could also use an allen key.
I think their labeled t-34 etc. Are those good? Bc I need to adjust my ebrake
Timothy Strunk The hex bits will likely have an H in front of the size.
For example “H4”.
Anything that has a T is a Torx bit and is not a hex bit.
You have to use either a 4mm hex bit or the equivalent SAE size mentioned in my first reply.
Ok thanks man
When you're putting the 14mm bolt back on, do you torque it to spec (if there is one not sure) or tighten it till it feels snug?
Tighten it until snug. There should be a copper crush washer on it also.
How do the wire spring clips install?
thought my caliper was frozen.
Rolex Submariner
That was not a complete adjustment procedure. You have to make sure the hand brake cable is pulling equally, not either side pulling too much.
Very good point. Especially if someone has messed with the cable adjuster previously.
You need to back-off the cable adjuster at the e-brake handle before adjusting the callipers.
@@MiataManif the handbrake cable adjuster has been tampered with before, would you recommend loosening the cable pretty much all the way, then start adjusting the calipers?
The angel is kinda weird can't see what ur screwing
I did everything correctly and now brake fluid is leaking from the caliper adjuster and the adjuster itself has no residtance at all and turns freely. Do i need a caliper rebuild or can i fix this somehow?
Sounds like you need a new/remanufactured calliper.