Well done! These plates are fun to experiment with. The secret to bed adhesion is just Dawn dish soap. For glass, G10, these, or PEI. Once you feel it grip under your fingers theough the soap, rinse until it squeaks and you've got it. After that, you don't need to wipe it off again unless you touch the plate. Dust should be wiped off with a dry towel or cloth. Once it starts having adhesion issues (dozens of prints in my experience) Dawn again. They really do use it on oil spills. It's not just marketing lol.
Use these plates almost daily…findings: I Never put any additives on my plates. Wash with Dawn before every print … I cannot say I have zero adhesion issues, but I fail one out of about 40 prints on average. A1 with AMS and SV07 Plus, 60-65C, no fan first layer, slow, 215 degrees with PLA+. I have found that some of the plates have a slight texture to them and those plates have a pattern that will last a long time on your print. The smooth plates are extremely sensitive to fingerprints. If you look at the pattern on the plate, where the pattern disappears, the plate is dirty… Even a simple fingerprint will make it disappear. With isopropyl, you can wipe the plate where fingerprints exist and watch the pattern reappear. After successfully printing, the pattern does not last very long at all. Rub your fingers over it… And it’s gone. The designs with a little texture are fun and definitely adds another element to be creative with.
I really like the way you communicate your enthusiasm for your work and especially for your success. I wish you and your family only the best for all of your steps in the future !!
Not sure if you worked this out or not but I've noticed that it is sometimes necessary to wash the textured boards before using them even when brand new. They seem to have some weird oil on them that burns off after a few prints but If you wash them with soap, water, and a non-scratch scrub pad (like for Teflon pans) they should stick well.
Binge watching your video. Great information. Still trying to learn how each of the bambu settings impact or affect prints. Good stat at seeing what you adjusted. Thank you. Loving your enthursiasm and straight forward communication styles.
Went through similar challenges early on with my plates too. What I have found works best for me is PEI plate settings and bumping temp to 70. Glue stick worked for me but it messes up the pattern, I recently got Bambu liquid glue and it has been amazing. It goes on super thin and even and doesn't mess up the pattern.
That’s great - thanks for the rundown on the tweaks you had to make. Interesting that a lower initial temperature got you better bed adhesion. Running without the fans makes sense, since it gets you better layer adhesion, but you’d have problems with drooping bridges. Good to keep in mind, since I’ll probably get these plates at some point as well.
Once I tried 50 and it worked I never tried 70 like a lot of people are saying. I read about 50c in a Reddit post lol. Maybe 70 would work better, I’ll try it soon and see. But yes, turning off cooling helped a ton
You are a ROCKSTAR for sharing your settings! I have been struggling with these plates to the point that I don't even try anymore. Can't wait to give it a shot again. Subscribed!
At 14:20 the hollow 'Thank You' might need a brim or skirt - that has been my experience with small items. The book marks have enough surface contact which is why you have no issues.
No really there is real pattern printed on the first layer, the "rainbow" ones gives a very smooth first line with a diffraction of the light resulting a rainbow effect, the carbon ones really gives a smooth carbon pattern. I use them because in print a lot of keyrings and it gives my print a really nice finish... The kind of finish nobody believes it's printed by me
great video. A hint for getting to stick. The sheen is from micro scratches in the plate. If you use glue it can fill the micro scratches. The hint is put on glue stick, then use a damp cloth to spread out. OK for it to be damp while heating, but dry by print squirting plastic.
I use 65c for everything. But with these plates you don’t want to use glue as it will keep the pattern from transferring. For larger prints use a big brim, but clean with soap and then alcohol seems to do well.
I have the same build plates. I had adhesion issues initially on my X1C, until I found a post that the guy put the "QR" code stickers on his build plates and it fixed it. After doing that, I have never had adhesion issues since...
turned out awesome. i think itd be cool to add a loop to your freebies so they can be "functional". customers can make them into keychains if they want. also maybe some "good day" freebies as thats easier to rep than "thank you" keychains hahah.
Thanks, that was cool! I've got the one with the small stars/sparkle last month that says it's for X1/P1 (257mm), for my A1, and it perfect in size, and it works very nice. I guess it makes sense since the xy dimensions of these printer's bed are the same. Since the texture is a lot more softer/detailed, it's also easier to damage the plate (don't ask how I know), so no more scrapers or fingers on it, or grabbing the print while still warm. For me it worked by bumping the filament temp by +5°C, use smooth/high temp plate settings (65°C all layers), and a slow 30mm/s speed for the first layer. With these settings is sticking too well (no glue), and I even see the shape of the last print on the newer one if I don't wash the plate after each print, and let it warm for a bit to even out. It's a bit of work with them but worth it for some of the projects.
I have found using the nano polymer adhesive from Amazon works great for sticking just about everything on a build plate. It is more expensive than a glue stick but it doesn't leave the residue behind.
I plan on ordering a few of these soon for my etsy store launch. Just a hobby but would be nice if I could cover the cost of my printer over the course of a couple years..
Thanks for your tutorial, now PEY plate works great, I would like to know if you have a presets or the best way to print PETG with P1P. Regards from Spain.
Only issue I've had with these holo plates, you cannot clean the area of the print after. The image will not be there after. Long term the image does not stay
Hi Macy, I just wanted to take a moment to express my admiration for your incredible work with 3D printing. Your dedication and talent truly shine through in everything you do. You're absolutely awesome! I've been particularly impressed by your PEY profile for PLA filament. It's been incredibly helpful for my projects. I was wondering if you happen to have a similar profile for PETG? I'd greatly appreciate any insights or recommendations you might have. Looking forward to hearing from you!
I was wondering what the big deal was with these plates; I'm amazed the effect transfers so well... I'll have to get me a couple of these. I gave up on glue sticks ages ago, and switched to spray-on glue. Seconds to apply, no mess, and works very well: the prints stick firmly, but pop right off once the plate cools. High strength hair spray also works, but be careful about the formulation: some use acetone, and not all build plates take kindly to that.
I used the Smooth Plate setting and had good results, but I might try to Cool Plate setting instead and see how they compare Is there a way you could do a full tutorial on the bookmark process? I'm stuck on illustrator building the shape.
you've already gotten all the tips I'd suggest, I love these plates. needs to be at least 60 build plate all layers, cranked down aux cooling, no cooling for first several layers. it doesn't look equally good on all filaments, and if multicolor favor dark colors for the predominant. I never use an adhesive with these, creates more problems. I use high heat smooth plate for the setting. I haven't needed to change speed at all.
Hi Macy, dumb question(s) here. If you had it to do all over again for the first time, what would you change as far as how you do business? What I mean is, if you consider the steps you took and what you have learned about etsy, 3D printing, 3D printers, software tools, etc, would you have done things differently or even in a different order? Would you have done additional preparation and why? Was it simply trial and error that led you to the business model you have today?
Perhaps use the Smooth plate option instead of the Cool one especially as you're using fairly normal bed temps anyway. Those were new plates fresh out of the packaging so maybe having some manufacturing additives still on their surface. Personally I find a good clean with detergent and warm water the best for cleaning build plates which helps for 1st layer adhesion. Even using some iso I have found is not enough but a good wash really help. Those PEY plates look quite delicate so probably just need a gentle wash to avoid scratches that will show on your print. How did the glue affect the pattern transfers? I would think it would nullify the pattern transfer somewhat. You might want to try Bambu Studios Lay on Face (F) option rather than flip objects in the X axis. It's more versatile if you have an odd angled face on a print you want on your nice build plates.
You might try "Smooth PEI Plate/High Temp Plate", I have had good luck with these patterned plates using stock Generic PLA settings (I am running Inland or Ovature), no glue (DO use glue on PETG or it is never coming off), alcohol clean between prints, bed leveling on when switching plates. Smooth plates just don't stick as well as Textured with PLA but I find this generally all I need. One big difference, however, is I have enclosed P1S so the fan & other settings might be much more critical on an open P1P
Yeah I quickly found out glue wasn’t the answer haha just a wipe down with alcohol before each print and then the adjusted settings seemed to be the magic sauce 👌🏼
I use these plates extensively and I use a product called 3DLac sprayed on to the plates after they have been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Some brands of hairspray are similar but a can of 3DLac will last AGES so I just get that.
Been using one of these plates for a while now and they certainly are not great for sticking. Although cleaning it then spraying it with 3d lac i've got great issues with no warping/curling at the corners. I'm by no means affiliated to 3d lac but it is honestly the absolute best for adhesion.
I bought some of these. They're good in that prints stick and the quality of the surface is good, but the edges are rough and instantly scratched the magnetic surface of my print bed when I tried to slide it into place, something I've done 100's of times with Bambu beds without issue. They really need to smooth the edges. Also, I've to this day never needed to use glue. Just 99.9% isopropyl alcohol is enough, even on these build plates.
Regarding the blue creeping into the white, look for a mod on printables called "Bambu Lab X1/P1 nozzle wiper with A1 Brush" (I'd link it, but it's not working) - I think that's your blue filament that isn't being wiped cleanly from the nozzle.
I also recommend replacing the wiper from stock. I did the "Better Wipe for Bambu Lab X1C..." on Makerworld and it cut my build plate poop drags by at least 80%
I don't know how those things react to alcohol, if at all, but I know if you spray alcohol onto a cold PEI bed, then rub gluestick into the alcohol evenly moving the alcohol around the bed and continuing to rub the glue stick in until you can notice it getting viscous / goopy, then finish by using a paper towel to spread it out evenly.... heat the bed, let it dry up, you'll get a nice even layer of PVA that won't leave streaks in your parts and give you great adhesion. I have NO idea how this will work with these etched plates though.
I have the Bambu ones had awful issues with the holographic great with the textured carbon fibre and triangular side. I was using alcohol that didn’t work, then I tried acetone, well it worked but it’s not good for the plate. Then I switched to dishwashing liquid and sort of would work then it was just as bad. But I looked at the label and they had additives in it for your hands so I went with a good old wall cleaner I love , sugar soap, I now have in some cases too much adhesion. I’d love to see if you get the same results and if you do, you’re welcome 😊.
If you didn't, should always clean all new plates with some good dish soap, regardless of whether they come with a plastic peel or not. Can also use nano polymer adhesive if you're printing a stubborn filament and it won't mess with the pattern.
hi ! i don't know if you figured how to make it stick on the plate , but i have something that may help, if you choose texture plat on the slicer when you're using those plats :) ( i havent finished the video .. so i don't know if the problem is solved yet haha)
Cool I saw these build plates and just assumed they where just flashy accessories, had no idea it would actually transfer the pattern to the prints. In fact thought the claims of giving the prints a pattern was just snake oil marketing. Will have to give them more thought now.
Follow up question also would you mind posting a file even if it's just a simple primitive or whatever with those settings so we can just import them automatically without having to transfer them through screenshots... Thanks so much for all that you do.
I haven’t decided yet. It’s not any more difficult than the ones I’m currently selling but it does make them look a lot nicer so we’ll see if that allows me to ask a little higher for them. I’ll update in a future video once I list them!
I used them for my dogs tag, it worked, but washed away after like a week! :( also my printer (A1) scratches the plate before printing to remove left over filament and that breaks the pattern
On your bookmark, I believe if you have it assembled in TinkerCAD and export each piece while assembled, then in Studio, you select all the pieces to import, it will ask if you want to import as 1 object w/ multiple parts, pick yes, then it will already be assembled in Studio, and then you just click the part on the left menu and change the color. When I tried to put separate pieces together in Studio, the layers didn't sit right for some reason.....building it in TinkerCAD was a little easier, for me any way.
But also (I hope you know that) you can trace images in illustrator to convert bitmaps into vectors. So if you already have an illustrator or corel there is no point in using thirdparty apps, especially paid ones.
The only thing that worked for me with this plates is the washing with sponge and a dish soap... nothing else really worked until i washed them and they stick very well now!
Just found your channel and I subed up. Also I like your video edit style. Waiting for UPS to bring my x1c too me. All new at this. Im an FPV drone pilot and will be printing TPU 95. What Should I know that I dont know.?.? I know not to use the ams but Brand of filament and Profile is confusing. How do you inport a profile? So many questions. Thanks a lot for the content.
AMS Riser - makerworld.com/en/models/16530#profileId-15347 That should be the link. I show the build and installation in my A1 video/vlog 5. I really like them a lot
As best as I can tell (have several) they are a vinyl like plastic sheet that is micro edged to create subtle light patterns. This gets picked up in the print. Beyond that they are a sticker stuck to a sheet of spring steel so it can flex to get the prints off and do wear out over time. With certain brands you can actually buy new "sticker" to peel off and replace on the metal sheet
If your prints already aren't sticking to the build plate, I'm not sure what you hope to accomplish by adding glue. Using glue stick on the build plate ISN'T so that your prints stick better to the build plate. You use glue stick on build plates to which prints adhere TOO well. The glue stick is supposed to be an interface between the print and the build plate, so that the print is easier to remove. If your print is already not staying on the build plate, then you don't WANT it to be easier to remove.
I used to use Elmer's purple on my X1 Carbon but got sick of having to wash the prints, I now use 3D LAC and it works much better especially on the Ideaformer plates. Are there any colour filaments that the holographic textures don't work well on?
@@macymakes3d thanks so much! I saw another guy using the the ERCF V2 and he had the same software for doing multi color prints with a voron and he has yet to answer my question.
Anyone say to use hair spray yet? Its my go to for all bed adhesion issues. Aqua Net hairspray, the purple can. I spray that on plate before any print Im worried about bed adhesion on.
i have some of these and cannot work out why the little bit at the back of the build plate thet the nozzle cleans its self on is a different height compared to the original bambu plate
The colours are caused by patterns etched into the plate that refract the light and split it into colours. The tiny ridges on the plate cause the same etchings to be made in the plastic so it refracts the light the same way
Newbie question here... My new P1S should arrive soon... You inspired me to also get the AMS by the way... I have now watched all of your videos great content... Keep it coming. My question: is it possible to have two types of support in the same model. Mostly need "trees default Auto" but there are two little notches that most definitely need "normal tight" is it possible to change those two notches without making the entire model normal tight. I was thinking it should be possible with either splitting the object and editing a tiny section separately or using a modifier shape... But as far as I can tell only being in the slicer for the last 10 hours or so... All of the support settings are global which seems insane and can't be right because I would think a lot of models would have a single notch or something that would require local tweaking as opposed to globally changing everything.
I don't think it's possible, but you might try to: paint on the (tree) support for the first support type, save that project as an STL file (export), and then bring it back in, and see if you can paint on a different type of (snug) support.
Depending on the model you may want to model the supports in CAD rather than doing it in the slicer. There's a Slant3D video fairly recently about doing it.
If you select "Objects" instead of "Global", you can adjust settings per model and also per modifier. So just add a modifier (eg a cube) by right-clicking on the model and "add modifier". Then (after you place it where you want it), simply change the settings by (making sure the modifier is selected in the object list) then "Tree Supports" (or whatever - you can change any setting you want) down below.
I love these build plates, but I really want to launch them out the Fu(£!nG window at the same time. Ill try it now and the extruder will print so low I'm sure it is going to scratch my desk, ill stop the print, change NO settings hit go again and the nozzle will be about 1/2 a mile above the build plate. Any ideas? Works no problem with all my stock build plates.
The trick for these plates, 70c , slow first layers, and no glue 😉
Correct. Don't use glue. I print with "Textured PEI Plate" and normal speed.
Yeah I learned glue wasn’t the answer really fast haha. I never tried 70c since 50c was working, but I will just to see how it compares!
@@macymakes3d Just to add, washing with dawn dish soap helps a lot with adhesion on the ones I have.
I also wonder how much you’d benefit from partially or fully enclosing your printers to keep the temps more stable around the print.
I slow down my first layer to 20 and it print well. Also make sure plate is super clean.
Well done! These plates are fun to experiment with. The secret to bed adhesion is just Dawn dish soap. For glass, G10, these, or PEI. Once you feel it grip under your fingers theough the soap, rinse until it squeaks and you've got it. After that, you don't need to wipe it off again unless you touch the plate. Dust should be wiped off with a dry towel or cloth. Once it starts having adhesion issues (dozens of prints in my experience) Dawn again.
They really do use it on oil spills. It's not just marketing lol.
Love all the tricks to get the bookmarks made. Love this video!
I love you vids ❤
I've used it for over 50 3d prints on the same plate, still transfers the holographic like it did the first one!
Use these plates almost daily…findings: I Never put any additives on my plates. Wash with Dawn before every print … I cannot say I have zero adhesion issues, but I fail one out of about 40 prints on average. A1 with AMS and SV07 Plus, 60-65C, no fan first layer, slow, 215 degrees with PLA+. I have found that some of the plates have a slight texture to them and those plates have a pattern that will last a long time on your print. The smooth plates are extremely sensitive to fingerprints. If you look at the pattern on the plate, where the pattern disappears, the plate is dirty… Even a simple fingerprint will make it disappear. With isopropyl, you can wipe the plate where fingerprints exist and watch the pattern reappear. After successfully printing, the pattern does not last very long at all. Rub your fingers over it… And it’s gone. The designs with a little texture are fun and definitely adds another element to be creative with.
Oh man I totally replied then read yours haha. 100% washing the board should resolve it. I have experienced the same with these boards.
I really like the way you communicate your enthusiasm for your work and especially for your success. I wish you and your family only the best for all of your steps in the future !!
I use unscented hair spray on my PEI sheets. It wont leave residue on the bottom of the print and it works fairly well.
That’s what i do too. It’s been working great for a few months now. I also wipe it down with alcohol after each print.
I’m just learning and was curious about these plates. Your video was perfect! Thank you for doing this. You rock! 🙌
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Not sure if you worked this out or not but I've noticed that it is sometimes necessary to wash the textured boards before using them even when brand new. They seem to have some weird oil on them that burns off after a few prints but If you wash them with soap, water, and a non-scratch scrub pad (like for Teflon pans) they should stick well.
Binge watching your video. Great information. Still trying to learn how each of the bambu settings impact or affect prints. Good stat at seeing what you adjusted. Thank you. Loving your enthursiasm and straight forward communication styles.
Thank you so much :)
You just saved me hours of fiddling around with settings! Thank you 😊
Went through similar challenges early on with my plates too. What I have found works best for me is PEI plate settings and bumping temp to 70. Glue stick worked for me but it messes up the pattern, I recently got Bambu liquid glue and it has been amazing. It goes on super thin and even and doesn't mess up the pattern.
I've been having so many issues with these plates. This was super helpful, thank you for posting!
Awesome info! I love how you using those plates to enhance your product. You've given my great ideas for my print farm. Thank you.
That’s great - thanks for the rundown on the tweaks you had to make. Interesting that a lower initial temperature got you better bed adhesion. Running without the fans makes sense, since it gets you better layer adhesion, but you’d have problems with drooping bridges. Good to keep in mind, since I’ll probably get these plates at some point as well.
Once I tried 50 and it worked I never tried 70 like a lot of people are saying. I read about 50c in a Reddit post lol. Maybe 70 would work better, I’ll try it soon and see. But yes, turning off cooling helped a ton
You are a ROCKSTAR for sharing your settings! I have been struggling with these plates to the point that I don't even try anymore. Can't wait to give it a shot again. Subscribed!
Awesome glad I could help! A lot of the comments here have been saying 70c for the build plate so if 50 doesn’t work, try 70!
Thank you! Will report back.@@macymakes3d
At 14:20 the hollow 'Thank You' might need a brim or skirt - that has been my experience with small items. The book marks have enough surface contact which is why you have no issues.
Awesome video. Thank you for all the detail including the settings you used for these texture plates. You have given me some new ideas to try!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad it was helpful :)
They work really great I have these too and I love them.. it's very cool to add different textures on your first layers
Yes! So much fun!
but aren't they more of a smooth finish with a pattern than a textured finish like the gold plate?
No really there is real pattern printed on the first layer, the "rainbow" ones gives a very smooth first line with a diffraction of the light resulting a rainbow effect, the carbon ones really gives a smooth carbon pattern. I use them because in print a lot of keyrings and it gives my print a really nice finish... The kind of finish nobody believes it's printed by me
First time I have watched you. And you are fantastic
Great work thanks. All the very best Jono 👌.
great video. A hint for getting to stick. The sheen is from micro scratches in the plate. If you use glue it can fill the micro scratches. The hint is put on glue stick, then use a damp cloth to spread out. OK for it to be damp while heating, but dry by print squirting plastic.
I use 65c for everything. But with these plates you don’t want to use glue as it will keep the pattern from transferring. For larger prints use a big brim, but clean with soap and then alcohol seems to do well.
I have the same build plates. I had adhesion issues initially on my X1C, until I found a post that the guy put the "QR" code stickers on his build plates and it fixed it. After doing that, I have never had adhesion issues since...
turned out awesome. i think itd be cool to add a loop to your freebies so they can be "functional". customers can make them into keychains if they want. also maybe some "good day" freebies as thats easier to rep than "thank you" keychains hahah.
Really cool. Thanks!
Awesome, I've been wanting some new build plates, perfect timing
Thanks, that was cool!
I've got the one with the small stars/sparkle last month that says it's for X1/P1 (257mm), for my A1, and it perfect in size, and it works very nice. I guess it makes sense since the xy dimensions of these printer's bed are the same. Since the texture is a lot more softer/detailed, it's also easier to damage the plate (don't ask how I know), so no more scrapers or fingers on it, or grabbing the print while still warm.
For me it worked by bumping the filament temp by +5°C, use smooth/high temp plate settings (65°C all layers), and a slow 30mm/s speed for the first layer. With these settings is sticking too well (no glue), and I even see the shape of the last print on the newer one if I don't wash the plate after each print, and let it warm for a bit to even out.
It's a bit of work with them but worth it for some of the projects.
It wouldn’t let me give the video more than one thumbs up, so I’ll just leave these extra ones here : 👍👍👍👍👍
Hey, love your channel a lot! Super cool content, interesting and creative. Thanks for contributing this to the community.
Thank you so much :) and thank you for watching!
I have found using the nano polymer adhesive from Amazon works great for sticking just about everything on a build plate. It is more expensive than a glue stick but it doesn't leave the residue behind.
I plan on ordering a few of these soon for my etsy store launch. Just a hobby but would be nice if I could cover the cost of my printer over the course of a couple years..
Definitely possible!
Thanks for your tutorial, now PEY plate works great, I would like to know if you have a presets or the best way to print PETG with P1P. Regards from Spain.
Only issue I've had with these holo plates, you cannot clean the area of the print after. The image will not be there after. Long term the image does not stay
Good to know it doesn’t stay permanently!
Hi Macy, I just wanted to take a moment to express my admiration for your incredible work with 3D printing. Your dedication and talent truly shine through in everything you do. You're absolutely awesome! I've been particularly impressed by your PEY profile for PLA filament. It's been incredibly helpful for my projects. I was wondering if you happen to have a similar profile for PETG? I'd greatly appreciate any insights or recommendations you might have. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Okay ChatGPT. lol
Ive tried a number of these. Recommended printing QR codes out and taping them on.
Pretty dang cool
I was wondering what the big deal was with these plates; I'm amazed the effect transfers so well... I'll have to get me a couple of these.
I gave up on glue sticks ages ago, and switched to spray-on glue. Seconds to apply, no mess, and works very well: the prints stick firmly, but pop right off once the plate cools. High strength hair spray also works, but be careful about the formulation: some use acetone, and not all build plates take kindly to that.
I used the Smooth Plate setting and had good results, but I might try to Cool Plate setting instead and see how they compare
Is there a way you could do a full tutorial on the bookmark process? I'm stuck on illustrator building the shape.
you've already gotten all the tips I'd suggest, I love these plates. needs to be at least 60 build plate all layers, cranked down aux cooling, no cooling for first several layers. it doesn't look equally good on all filaments, and if multicolor favor dark colors for the predominant. I never use an adhesive with these, creates more problems. I use high heat smooth plate for the setting. I haven't needed to change speed at all.
incredible video, thanks for sharing.
Hi Macy, dumb question(s) here. If you had it to do all over again for the first time, what would you change as far as how you do business? What I mean is, if you consider the steps you took and what you have learned about etsy, 3D printing, 3D printers, software tools, etc, would you have done things differently or even in a different order? Would you have done additional preparation and why? Was it simply trial and error that led you to the business model you have today?
Perhaps use the Smooth plate option instead of the Cool one especially as you're using fairly normal bed temps anyway. Those were new plates fresh out of the packaging so maybe having some manufacturing additives still on their surface. Personally I find a good clean with detergent and warm water the best for cleaning build plates which helps for 1st layer adhesion. Even using some iso I have found is not enough but a good wash really help. Those PEY plates look quite delicate so probably just need a gentle wash to avoid scratches that will show on your print.
How did the glue affect the pattern transfers? I would think it would nullify the pattern transfer somewhat.
You might want to try Bambu Studios Lay on Face (F) option rather than flip objects in the X axis. It's more versatile if you have an odd angled face on a print you want on your nice build plates.
Gonna have to go buy some of these.
You might try "Smooth PEI Plate/High Temp Plate", I have had good luck with these patterned plates using stock Generic PLA settings (I am running Inland or Ovature), no glue (DO use glue on PETG or it is never coming off), alcohol clean between prints, bed leveling on when switching plates. Smooth plates just don't stick as well as Textured with PLA but I find this generally all I need. One big difference, however, is I have enclosed P1S so the fan & other settings might be much more critical on an open P1P
Yeah I quickly found out glue wasn’t the answer haha just a wipe down with alcohol before each print and then the adjusted settings seemed to be the magic sauce 👌🏼
I use these plates extensively and I use a product called 3DLac sprayed on to the plates after they have been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Some brands of hairspray are similar but a can of 3DLac will last AGES so I just get that.
Aqua Net hairspray works best for me. Clean with 99 IPA, dry, then very light even spray of Aqua Net. Works great for me.
Hey.... Where are you? Love your content. Keep it coming.
Been using one of these plates for a while now and they certainly are not great for sticking. Although cleaning it then spraying it with 3d lac i've got great issues with no warping/curling at the corners.
I'm by no means affiliated to 3d lac but it is honestly the absolute best for adhesion.
the tutorial videos are soo good!!!
These are dope, thanks for sharing
I bought some of these. They're good in that prints stick and the quality of the surface is good, but the edges are rough and instantly scratched the magnetic surface of my print bed when I tried to slide it into place, something I've done 100's of times with Bambu beds without issue. They really need to smooth the edges. Also, I've to this day never needed to use glue. Just 99.9% isopropyl alcohol is enough, even on these build plates.
Regarding the blue creeping into the white, look for a mod on printables called "Bambu Lab X1/P1 nozzle wiper with A1 Brush" (I'd link it, but it's not working) - I think that's your blue filament that isn't being wiped cleanly from the nozzle.
Awesome thank you I’ll look into it! I always hate when little bits like that ruin my prints.
I also recommend replacing the wiper from stock. I did the "Better Wipe for Bambu Lab X1C..." on Makerworld and it cut my build plate poop drags by at least 80%
How about using the High Temp plate setting? That's what I use on these plates and it works perfectly.
you are a GEM!!!! I wish I could sit and pick your brain....You are super intelligent and I really like your content.
I don't know how those things react to alcohol, if at all, but I know if you spray alcohol onto a cold PEI bed, then rub gluestick into the alcohol evenly moving the alcohol around the bed and continuing to rub the glue stick in until you can notice it getting viscous / goopy, then finish by using a paper towel to spread it out evenly.... heat the bed, let it dry up, you'll get a nice even layer of PVA that won't leave streaks in your parts and give you great adhesion.
I have NO idea how this will work with these etched plates though.
I have the Bambu ones had awful issues with the holographic great with the textured carbon fibre and triangular side. I was using alcohol that didn’t work, then I tried acetone, well it worked but it’s not good for the plate. Then I switched to dishwashing liquid and sort of would work then it was just as bad. But I looked at the label and they had additives in it for your hands so I went with a good old wall cleaner I love , sugar soap, I now have in some cases too much adhesion. I’d love to see if you get the same results and if you do, you’re welcome 😊.
If you didn't, should always clean all new plates with some good dish soap, regardless of whether they come with a plastic peel or not.
Can also use nano polymer adhesive if you're printing a stubborn filament and it won't mess with the pattern.
hi ! i don't know if you figured how to make it stick on the plate , but i have something that may help, if you choose texture plat on the slicer when you're using those plats
:) ( i havent finished the video .. so i don't know if the problem is solved yet haha)
After I remembered to do an auto bed leveling my filament stuck much better
Cool I saw these build plates and just assumed they where just flashy accessories, had no idea it would actually transfer the pattern to the prints. In fact thought the claims of giving the prints a pattern was just snake oil marketing. Will have to give them more thought now.
I wonder if you could use the holo film and and iron to 'apply' the patter to the top of the print as well.
Love the videos!
Follow up question also would you mind posting a file even if it's just a simple primitive or whatever with those settings so we can just import them automatically without having to transfer them through screenshots... Thanks so much for all that you do.
Hope do these work? Is it a transfer or embossing?
Good job. The texture plates are pretty neat. Will it be an up charge in the store?
I haven’t decided yet. It’s not any more difficult than the ones I’m currently selling but it does make them look a lot nicer so we’ll see if that allows me to ask a little higher for them. I’ll update in a future video once I list them!
Mine worked after washing the plates with dish soap + generic/esun pla setting + textured PEI Plate in the slicer (P1S)
This!
You're such a nerd, Macy, I love it 😂
I used them for my dogs tag, it worked, but washed away after like a week! :( also my printer (A1) scratches the plate before printing to remove left over filament and that breaks the pattern
will give you a tip. windex is the best. no glues. slow down the machine on the first print layer by 50%
On your bookmark, I believe if you have it assembled in TinkerCAD and export each piece while assembled, then in Studio, you select all the pieces to import, it will ask if you want to import as 1 object w/ multiple parts, pick yes, then it will already be assembled in Studio, and then you just click the part on the left menu and change the color. When I tried to put separate pieces together in Studio, the layers didn't sit right for some reason.....building it in TinkerCAD was a little easier, for me any way.
is it printing the parttern or printing the pattern AND transfering the ranbow material?
I was told to try leaving it on the textured build plate setting and I had success with this and no glue
But also (I hope you know that) you can trace images in illustrator to convert bitmaps into vectors. So if you already have an illustrator or corel there is no point in using thirdparty apps, especially paid ones.
The only thing that worked for me with this plates is the washing with sponge and a dish soap... nothing else really worked until i washed them and they stick very well now!
not going to lie I didn't know the rainbow color transferred as well. Im buying these plates
Just found your channel and I subed up. Also I like your video edit style. Waiting for UPS to bring my x1c too me. All new at this. Im an FPV drone pilot and will be printing TPU 95. What Should I know that I dont know.?.? I know not to use the ams but Brand of filament and Profile is confusing. How do you inport a profile? So many questions. Thanks a lot for the content.
hello, does the plate wear out? for exemple does the sparkel raimbow patern is remove little bit from the plate at each print ? thks :-)
What AMS risers are you using on your printers? Those look great.
AMS Riser - makerworld.com/en/models/16530#profileId-15347
That should be the link. I show the build and installation in my A1 video/vlog 5. I really like them a lot
i see the exact same review video with the same products on other channel xD
How does the holographic part transfer to the object you print? Does it ever “run out” or is it an endless supply? Very curious
Others have said that it will rub off over time. I also have no idea how it transfers I just know it works lol.
Well you sold me! I love magic!
Love your videos. Just started the vid. I'm sure it's good. Thumbs up ;)
Thank you so much for watching 😊
Are this plates from JUUPINE on Aliexpress?
So it's just holographic foil glued to piece of aluminium. Or its etched aluminium.
As best as I can tell (have several) they are a vinyl like plastic sheet that is micro edged to create subtle light patterns. This gets picked up in the print. Beyond that they are a sticker stuck to a sheet of spring steel so it can flex to get the prints off and do wear out over time. With certain brands you can actually buy new "sticker" to peel off and replace on the metal sheet
I’m wondering what’s life span of those build plates, I recently got x1c and brought few those plates just curious.
Did you change your settings in bambu studio for smooth build plate?
Yes! Settings are at the end of the video
These work great, but the pattern is very very fine. Any rubbing or abrasion takes it off the part.
Couldn't you just use the live trace tool in illustrator to vectorize a simple pattern like that?
If your prints already aren't sticking to the build plate, I'm not sure what you hope to accomplish by adding glue. Using glue stick on the build plate ISN'T so that your prints stick better to the build plate. You use glue stick on build plates to which prints adhere TOO well. The glue stick is supposed to be an interface between the print and the build plate, so that the print is easier to remove. If your print is already not staying on the build plate, then you don't WANT it to be easier to remove.
I used to use Elmer's purple on my X1 Carbon but got sick of having to wash the prints, I now use 3D LAC and it works much better especially on the Ideaformer plates.
Are there any colour filaments that the holographic textures don't work well on?
They work a lot better on darker colors. It still transfers to light colors but they don’t pop like the dark colors do.
hey! loved your channel! new sub!
Can you please tell me what software you used in the video to do the slicing/configuring?
Bambu studio
@@macymakes3d thanks so much! I saw another guy using the the ERCF V2 and he had the same software for doing multi color prints with a voron and he has yet to answer my question.
Anyone say to use hair spray yet? Its my go to for all bed adhesion issues. Aqua Net hairspray, the purple can. I spray that on plate before any print Im worried about bed adhesion on.
yes they do
i have some of these and cannot work out why the little bit at the back of the build plate thet the nozzle cleans its self on is a different height compared to the original bambu plate
wash with dishwashing soap first and probably adhesion solved, no need for glue
how did you order them so they come on the plate when i order from bambu i have to apply the sticker to a sheet
I didn't order from bambu. Amazon and AliExpress would be my pick
What kind of Witch craft is this?
i don't understand how the plate moves the pattern onto the design? I have never seen or heard of this.
The colours are caused by patterns etched into the plate that refract the light and split it into colours. The tiny ridges on the plate cause the same etchings to be made in the plastic so it refracts the light the same way
Newbie question here... My new P1S should arrive soon... You inspired me to also get the AMS by the way... I have now watched all of your videos great content... Keep it coming.
My question: is it possible to have two types of support in the same model. Mostly need "trees default Auto" but there are two little notches that most definitely need "normal tight" is it possible to change those two notches without making the entire model normal tight. I was thinking it should be possible with either splitting the object and editing a tiny section separately or using a modifier shape... But as far as I can tell only being in the slicer for the last 10 hours or so... All of the support settings are global which seems insane and can't be right because I would think a lot of models would have a single notch or something that would require local tweaking as opposed to globally changing everything.
I don't think it's possible, but you might try to: paint on the (tree) support for the first support type, save that project as an STL file (export), and then bring it back in, and see if you can paint on a different type of (snug) support.
I honestly have no idea. Hopefully more people can comment and try to help. I very rarely print with supports.
@@ToddRafferty thank I'll go back try and redo it that way now
Depending on the model you may want to model the supports in CAD rather than doing it in the slicer. There's a Slant3D video fairly recently about doing it.
If you select "Objects" instead of "Global", you can adjust settings per model and also per modifier. So just add a modifier (eg a cube) by right-clicking on the model and "add modifier". Then (after you place it where you want it), simply change the settings by (making sure the modifier is selected in the object list) then "Tree Supports" (or whatever - you can change any setting you want) down below.
I love these build plates, but I really want to launch them out the Fu(£!nG window at the same time. Ill try it now and the extruder will print so low I'm sure it is going to scratch my desk, ill stop the print, change NO settings hit go again and the nozzle will be about 1/2 a mile above the build plate. Any ideas? Works no problem with all my stock build plates.