Man I had just about given up on these plates! I could never get a good adhesion, always appeared to be a z height issue. Then I happened across your video when I was watching your PETG-CF vid. A simple step, turning off plate id, is all it took! Thank you so much! I cant wait to start using these plates!
3. On the makerworld site there is a document allowing you to print out the barcode and glue it to the plate in the right location. I suggest adding the use text that applies to the specific plate. Meaning what materials
I got one of these plates for my A1, and the effect is beyond amazing on the EDH deckboxes I make for a Local Game Store with their logo on it. Granted I got the plate midway through production of them, so some have it, some don't but either way the deck boxes are selling quite well, both versions. When I first came into the store with the new hologram effect on them, the store owner was blown away by how it came out. The deckboxes are printed in 2 parts, so the "top" lid part is printed upside down, leaving the hologram effect on the top of the box with the recessed logo of the store. Needless to say...I need a few more printers now as it takes a good 24 hours to print just 3 of them because of the 500 swaps as another spot that has the logo is on the front of the box, so its against the Z axis meaning...lots of changes. The drawback of these build plates is they do eventually ware out, but at only 25 bucks a plate and being double sided, they will pay for themselves long before you need to replace them. They are basically the cost of a roll of filament (depending on brand).
there is a very good reason you dont see the hologram with the gold side, its not on it. the only side with a pattern that comes off is the black one that the pattern is obvious on. I noticed warping on some of your print edges which was also my findings with these. Adhesion is a problem with them but the pattern does come through the purple glue.
To counter this with PLA, I use the smooth PEI plate and set it to no cooling on the first few (3-6) layers. Additionally, I raise the bed temp for the smooth plate to 60-65 for initial and other layers. This works very well on the Bambu Labs X1.
I print large objects on that star pattern one and have zero warping without any glue . I wipe it before any print with isopropyl alcohol and it's good to go.
1. A problem with the holographic plates is sticking to plate. A few hints for addressing this: a. use a brim b. clean plate with alcohol c. glue stick, hint on these plates that are very sensitive to changing thickness. Glue stick fills in the micro grooves. A method of thinning the glue is apply lightly. Then wipe with a damp cloth. Well past the edge of the print.
@@TranquilityTerrace I have not see a problem sticking too well to the plate. There is an issue with some materials with some plates. corners peeling up to easy, or before you want them to.
Hey, just a tip here: If all you want to do is print a basic primitive shape, PrusaSlicer (and I'm assuming OrcaSlicer and BambuStudio as well) has the ability to create a basic shape, like a cube. Nothing wrong with creating it in F360 or another modeling app, but if it's something simple, many slicers can create these as well, eliminating a few extra steps).
Ive got a couple of these plates. With PLA, you have to print 10-15 degrees C hotter than you normally would I also set the hotbed to 70 C instead of 60 C
4. Something I want to try is combining hueforge with “holographic” build plate. I have not tried it. But should work making it a reverse. Letting the plate side be the visible side.
I would think that you can't sand them up to make them even smoother, as the effect is imprinted, right? I would love to see a very smooth surface, but I guess its the nature of the prints.
5. Finger prints on print. The effect is very small scratches. A finger print will cover the effect on the print. It is easy to wipe the print off and get the effect back.
2. Print slower on the first layer. The trick on these plates is the first layer fills in the “scratches” of the plate. This works better if it prints slower. Most of the time I just set the printer to “silent” speed.
Been using them where appropriate for a while. Have a bunch of ideas. the "holographic affect is from micro lines in the build plate that are transferred to the print on the first layer. think of them as scratches in the plate that are spaced the wave length of light apart.
Bought and used these on my A1 before I returned it and used on a X1C, I'm going to have to revisit these I had issues with the lydar camera and maybe if I disable the build plate inspection at the first I can use these again. I loved the way the bottom of my prints looked on the A1.
I have had these plates for my X1C for some time, but I was only using the textured gold side due to not being able to get a print on the other side - tried so many things, but it didn't seem to matter, the first layer either did not stick, or after a short amount of time, it came off the build plate. I watched your video and set up Orcaslicer to be a Textured PEI plate like you did and tried it again, and I got two successful prints. The pattern showed perfectly, so I am at a loss as to what I was doing wrong before, but I will be using these more now that I have successful prints. Thanks for the video.
what plate are you setting the machine to? Ive seen some people saying set it to textured and others saying set to smooth plate. are you using glue? I found these to have big trouble with adhesion.
@marcg7751 I use an x1c set it to smooth high temp. I print out the high temp qr code and stick it to the plate. This way I get no errors and lidar still works. Yes I use liquid glue. TPU comes out great with carbon fiber pate!
Not sure what it is but i cannot for the life of me get prints to stick with these, cleaned them thoroughly tried lowering speeds, adjusted temp, etc... Maybe i will try the liquid glue from bambu
I have seen this time and time again with everyone using these. I bought one to see too. They deffo have less adhesion. my go to is 3dlac that hairspray stuff. It works great with these sheets.
Sir, the other side of that plate with star holo is not holographic, it's a regular gold PEI plate like in Bambu and not supposed toale holo effect
Man I had just about given up on these plates! I could never get a good adhesion, always appeared to be a z height issue. Then I happened across your video when I was watching your PETG-CF vid. A simple step, turning off plate id, is all it took! Thank you so much! I cant wait to start using these plates!
3. On the makerworld site there is a document allowing you to print out the barcode and glue it to the plate in the right location. I suggest adding the use text that applies to the specific plate. Meaning what materials
I got one of these plates for my A1, and the effect is beyond amazing on the EDH deckboxes I make for a Local Game Store with their logo on it. Granted I got the plate midway through production of them, so some have it, some don't but either way the deck boxes are selling quite well, both versions. When I first came into the store with the new hologram effect on them, the store owner was blown away by how it came out. The deckboxes are printed in 2 parts, so the "top" lid part is printed upside down, leaving the hologram effect on the top of the box with the recessed logo of the store. Needless to say...I need a few more printers now as it takes a good 24 hours to print just 3 of them because of the 500 swaps as another spot that has the logo is on the front of the box, so its against the Z axis meaning...lots of changes.
The drawback of these build plates is they do eventually ware out, but at only 25 bucks a plate and being double sided, they will pay for themselves long before you need to replace them. They are basically the cost of a roll of filament (depending on brand).
there is a very good reason you dont see the hologram with the gold side, its not on it. the only side with a pattern that comes off is the black one that the pattern is obvious on. I noticed warping on some of your print edges which was also my findings with these. Adhesion is a problem with them but the pattern does come through the purple glue.
To counter this with PLA, I use the smooth PEI plate and set it to no cooling on the first few (3-6) layers. Additionally, I raise the bed temp for the smooth plate to 60-65 for initial and other layers. This works very well on the Bambu Labs X1.
I print large objects on that star pattern one and have zero warping without any glue . I wipe it before any print with isopropyl alcohol and it's good to go.
You set the texture pei to print on them? Ive tried setting smooth pei and had adhesion problems and i gave up. P1s user.
Hey, great video. Might want to consider getting a pop filter. When wearing headphones, it's agonizing.
why dont they make a plate
like that? i am the idiot that cant put a screen protector or these stupid things on!
1. A problem with the holographic plates is sticking to plate. A few hints for addressing this:
a. use a brim
b. clean plate with alcohol
c. glue stick, hint on these plates that are very sensitive to changing thickness. Glue stick fills in the micro grooves. A method of thinning the glue is apply lightly. Then wipe with a damp cloth. Well past the edge of the print.
the simplest with ALL plates is to let it cool completly after print. Say one hour or so and it will never stick! Done!
@@TranquilityTerrace I have not see a problem sticking too well to the plate. There is an issue with some materials with some plates. corners peeling up to easy, or before you want them to.
I have already bought them for my X1 Carbon and I love them!
orderd me the carbon and triangles version, takes 2 weeks till i get them... i think the carbon looks pretty cool
I use the carbon plate with TPU all the time and it comes out great! i use glue so the tpu doesnt destroy the plate.
These all look good but what I noticed is grease from fingers makes the hologram disappear
Wipe the grease off with a microfiber and it mostly comes back, it's weird.
Hey, just a tip here: If all you want to do is print a basic primitive shape, PrusaSlicer (and I'm assuming OrcaSlicer and BambuStudio as well) has the ability to create a basic shape, like a cube. Nothing wrong with creating it in F360 or another modeling app, but if it's something simple, many slicers can create these as well, eliminating a few extra steps).
Ive got a couple of these plates.
With PLA, you have to print 10-15 degrees C hotter than you normally would
I also set the hotbed to 70 C instead of 60 C
4. Something I want to try is combining hueforge with “holographic” build plate. I have not tried it. But should work making it a reverse. Letting the plate side be the visible side.
I would think that you can't sand them up to make them even smoother, as the effect is imprinted, right? I would love to see a very smooth surface, but I guess its the nature of the prints.
i suggest TK99 build plate
5. Finger prints on print. The effect is very small scratches. A finger print will cover the effect on the print. It is easy to wipe the print off and get the effect back.
2. Print slower on the first layer. The trick on these plates is the first layer fills in the “scratches” of the plate. This works better if it prints slower. Most of the time I just set the printer to “silent” speed.
6. Consider fill pattern on bottom layer. You can still see the lines from the infill. You might choose the fill pattern.
Been using them where appropriate for a while. Have a bunch of ideas.
the "holographic affect is from micro lines in the build plate that are transferred to the print on the first layer. think of them as scratches in the plate that are spaced the wave length of light apart.
Can you print a lithophane upside down? It could be really cool to have holographic lithophanes
Bought and used these on my A1 before I returned it and used on a X1C, I'm going to have to revisit these I had issues with the lydar camera and maybe if I disable the build plate inspection at the first I can use these again. I loved the way the bottom of my prints looked on the A1.
The gold side is not supposed to be holographic lol ❤️
If you want to use the flow calibration on these plates you can change the plate to the smooth pei plate option and that works fine to len
I have had these plates for my X1C for some time, but I was only using the textured gold side due to not being able to get a print on the other side - tried so many things, but it didn't seem to matter, the first layer either did not stick, or after a short amount of time, it came off the build plate.
I watched your video and set up Orcaslicer to be a Textured PEI plate like you did and tried it again, and I got two successful prints. The pattern showed perfectly, so I am at a loss as to what I was doing wrong before, but I will be using these more now that I have successful prints.
Thanks for the video.
Did you set it to smooth plate and not textured?
I was super skeptical when i first saw them, especially with how cheap they are. Got a couple and must admit I'm amazed how well they actually work!
SAME there like pokemon gotta catch them all i see one new 1 i dont have i buy it
what plate are you setting the machine to? Ive seen some people saying set it to textured and others saying set to smooth plate. are you using glue? I found these to have big trouble with adhesion.
@marcg7751 I use an x1c set it to smooth high temp. I print out the high temp qr code and stick it to the plate. This way I get no errors and lidar still works. Yes I use liquid glue. TPU comes out great with carbon fiber pate!
@@Jasta315 lidar will still work without QR code just wont check for the build plate
I have one and I really like it. No problems so far and I use it all the time
Man I'ma have to get me some of thoseeee!
To achieve a similar look, just sprinkle a very light layer of glitter over your build plate to do it for like a couple of cents a print
There's no way I'm suffering the terrible consequences of glitter physics.
And risk the fan blowing the glitter into the motion system
Do they wear down?
Not sure what it is but i cannot for the life of me get prints to stick with these, cleaned them thoroughly tried lowering speeds, adjusted temp, etc... Maybe i will try the liquid glue from bambu
I had a success using the textured plate setting in bambu slicer
I have seen this time and time again with everyone using these. I bought one to see too. They deffo have less adhesion.
my go to is 3dlac that hairspray stuff. It works great with these sheets.
@@felixortiz6962 yep i tried that. I will try lowering my speeds some more to see if it sticks better
@@jake360flip Thanks perhaps i will try that, i love the design of the plates but they have been frustrating..
@Spirited282 did you Turned off the plate detection? I did that on my aftermarket one and used the texture plate setting and it worked perfectly