Latest news and update: I have chosen to go with a new tuner at Racebox -Hussain Boxwala. I am not dyno tuning the car this time so until a time that I have access to a dyno I won't have the current rwhp and torque numbers but I can safely say the car is just as powerful but yet smoother to drive and while not pushing the turbos past 19 psi. Not the case before.
I went back this morning Sat Fed 15 to get the map switching activated with the full boost map and the lower boost map 434 vs 410 whp. Also, got Seth to configure my launch control through the Ecuteck software & the cruise control button now that I have the Ecutek Bluetooth dongle/OBD II module. Both of the changes are working very well. Surprised how good the launch control manages to apply power now in 1st gear. Break boost 2.5K hold and step off the brake and dam! Going to be awesome to use it!
One of the times I had one of my Mustangs tuned, the tuner was outside the car and had ME drive the car on the dyno. One of the most harrowing experiences of my life. Driving the car balls out and hoping the straps hold.
I'm full bolt on as in intakes,lower downpipes,catback,3 inches on downpipes and catback plus the AMS heat exchanger plus I did blow off valves and oil catch can. And with out a tunes there was a massive increase by doing the exhaust it so restricted. I've been like this for 9 months or so problem free. I don't want to tune it until my warranty is up. I have a 2017 Q60 red sport awd so I can wait for the warranty to be over especially seeing people pushing the stock turbos to much has caused a lot of turbo problems.
I'd be a little leary with 3" downpipes or any aftermarket dps/partial cats, even with just the lowers and a super free flowing CBE because many of the oem turbos have problems with new flow. Maybe you will be ok because not pushing them with a higher boost tune but something to understand. These failures happen over time depending on the abuse 10-20k miles. Anyways, thanks for reaching out to me and telling me about your experience and sharing your passion for your Q50-Q60. Keep it touch and let me know how things go and updates 😊
I woke up very early this morning thinking to myself, did I make a good/bad decision with this move. It was a nice chunk of change and an investment of my time to install the heat exchanger, AMS intakes, buy ecutek lic and Jotech tuning session so I would really regret this move if for some reason not right. I mean the car is insane/borderline scary with this amount of almost instant torque on 245 summer-only tires. The car drives normal for the most part but if you go into boost/half-way mash the pedal down it's laying down rubber uncontrollably or traction control is going to be screaming at you to get out of boost. I guess with more time driving the car I will become more comfortable with the throttle response, shifting and power delivery, but holy cow the difference is shocking. I felt the car was pretty strong from the factory with its little twin turbos spooling as quickly as they do but now it's like driving a car through black ice off the line. Definitely going to need new rear tires in the 275 rang with an overly soft compound. I guess I'll be looking at replacing those tires every 5-10K to get any sort of traction off the line or a 20mph-30mph roll.
Sort of cold and wet here now but sometimes there are decent days. The negative part with my car is the 0 - 60 part. It's due to the amount of wheel spin with or without VDC. The only way to get off the line 1st and 2nd gear is to only use about 50% partial throttle all throughout those gears and even into third. I have different Pirelli summer tires that are way better than the equiped run-flats but with the added power from the tune they might as well be made of hard rubber. I don't know how the other folks are launching their Q50 - 60's with this open differential as mine just lights up the one rear tire and becomes pointless. My VDC vehicle dynamic control is overwhelmed and over powered by the 500 hp and Tq. Next decision is to whether to try/buy a racing/drag like tire for the rear and just run that all the time or invest 2000-2.5k in a suitable limited slip differential.
These Infiniti/Nissan V6 VR30 motors are pretty redic when tuned. All ones really needs is a high quality 93 tune from say Racebox, AMS, B-Tuned some others too and the car is a pure tire scorthing machine. Two little turbos that spin up 10foot from 0-mph and heat peak hp and tq before 20 mph. The 1st/2nd investment should be a wicked soft rear tire for rwd versions. To be honest I rarely have the opportunity to really romp on it because excessive wheelspin. I'm not a fan of burn outs, donuts and drifting to show off so the added power is excessive for anything under 30mph. Takes a set of $800+ for tires and new 17" wheels to fit those tires because the tires that work only come 15" dia x 10" wide rear wheels or the 17" diameter 10", 10.5" wide +48 to +50 offset.
The Q50/Q60 is not really a platform designed for sport driving. No shocker, so not going to have the true sport/street racer ability of a Supra, BMW or even the newest Nissan Z unless you swap out/stiffen up a lot of things: add LSD, diff brace, stiffer trans mount, motormounts, subframe bushing collars, driveshaft upgrade but the AWD Q50-60 do provide more traction but cost similar to an upgraded rwd if buy new from dealership pricing.
Yea, pretty good numbers. These days with more upgrade available people be making 500-540 whp. My car was nearly brand new so a healthy motor. This was over 2 years ago. Car still run great and is healthy as far as I know. I soon after Jotech tuning got retuned at Racebox for different reasons after I added the 2.5" x-pipe cat-back exhaust so likely picked up 10whp.
Intake wasn't really apart of the plan but at the last moment before the tuning session I found AMS RA Intake system $100 off and thought about testing before and after to verify AMS's claim. I will say I am actually a believer in the gains for this intake and this intake only.
@@GilanA7X the AMS intake is good. I wouldn't say $500 good. 299.00 good. It flows more air as the little turbos start really sucking air. Likely adds a smidge more when the exhaust is enlarged half an inch throughout.
This model was the mid 19 year release labeled the signature edition base on some of the sport models attributes and features. 360 camera, front radar, parking sensors front and rear, sport interior and seats, and sunroof minus larger brake calipers and some other options like electronic adjustable suspension and sport plus modes. No navigation either which I didn't need.
Yes, I think so. The downside is with those high numbers my car was not acting right to some degree. I was questioning the tune. I've gone back and through that process to make me feel more comfortable with what I'm seeing on data logs and daily monitoring through the Ecutek app. The car has been turned down a fair amount. I'm still getting a hold on things so this current tune could stay the same or go back up slightly in numbers For now, I'm not sure I'd use this particular tuner again for a Infiniti Q50/Q60. I'm thinking AMS would be the best bet because they know this platform inside and out. That point us a big deal. Downside they are the most expensive and harder to work with due to limited after sale support and a hurried tuning window. Why I picked the tuner here locally was that they were designated as master tuners per the Ecutek website for Infiniti and Nissan.
@@b58forever Yep, comes out to approx 370hp at the motor before drivetrain loss with just AMS airboxes. These cars come out of the factory with 300 plus a little to the wheels. Redsport 400 about 375-380ish to the wheels.
Please comment below if you think the dyno numbers are low, average or great. Car feels dangerously fast where my summer 245 P-zero tires don't stand a chance. This could get dangerous fast. Apprehensive to take off traction control. Tuner commented that my heat exchanger was functioning really well. Burger Motorsports and not the cream of the crop AMS HX. Showed me a data log from a full pull mid way into the session and it was almost level across the laptop screen with an ever so slight slope increase. He commented on how rediculous a log looks from a turbo Q50 with oem heat exchanger. Looks almost like a vertical wall as temp climbs and timing is pulled. It was hard to hear the number to repeat them here because the fans were so loud. He thought I was using the AMS HX because of the datalog. Replied nope, $299 Burger Motorsports unit.
@Brandon Williams Turning off traction control is a must. Wider and softer tires is a must. Having to modulate the pedal sucks! Answer LSD and Nitto 05R's.
I just purchased a mishimoto heat hx but it’s a presale item to thinking about canceling the order and going with burger motor sports of it performs that well ... there’s no way I’m spending 800 for the ams ... thanks for posting this and elaborating on the tune
@@Mr.MarcM3366 The Mishimoto looks nice and I'm sure it will function very well. If I was sitting on more money or I just made more money then I would have likely gone the AMS or Mishimoto route just to clarify. I also would have paid a reputable shop to install it but that's just not my life. Will a Mishimoto or AMS heat exchanger function better than the Burger Motorsports, I don't have that definitive answer. What I can say is that the Burger Motorsports is working good for me. ((My advice is that when doing the installation, you modify the plastic ductwork slightly that you pull out so you can put it back in. [while sitting in front of the car] the one to your left/passenger side needs cutting or dremel tool work. Since the Burger Motorsports heat exchanger sits lower on the car compared to the AMS/Mishi, the rubber hoses route differently and that plastic shroud on the left is shaped to fit the hose and the OEM heat exchanger location.)) Not a massive deal to modify but can consume some extra time. -Most people, I assume from photos I've seen or video footage leave these out or discard. Purpose of the shroud pieces is to direct/tunnel that main airflow directly into the heat exchanger and radiator and not around them. Video of my BM HX install: ua-cam.com/video/o-xUaBa94lw/v-deo.html (Note: I sound/come off a little negative in the sense in the video where I need to look less at the negative aspects and more at the positives!:)
Getting thru Life I agree with you 100 Percent ! We all love to mod but modding with some sense usually pays off. I’m all about things being cost effective and for 800 bucks I can’t imagine the ams hx being that much better then the other companies and from what I see so far there is no definitive proof saying it is, mind you all my other mods are mostly ams so I do love their products . With that being said my tuner is installing my along with the stock hx so I’ll let you know how it performs . And listen you say negative , I say Informative ! ...too many guys always telling us the good side of a tune ...it’s nice to see someone give their actual experience after the tune because 9 times out of 10 we are going to go through the same thing ! Thank you for that ! Please keep us updated 💯
How is the car holding up now? I really want to get one used because of how cheap they are. I've heard that the turbos inevitably do go out eventually, especially when modifying it. What are your thoughts?
Mine is great but I don't put long hard miles on it. I change my oil often and most of the time I drive it pretty normally. Easy to get a used car that's not been loved and taken care of. A lot of these used car are/were leases which means people treat them even worse and long time between oil changes. Bad for the turbos and engine components plus people mess with the suspension and the electronics/wires fir the entertainment system. The 2016 through I think 2018 have the older turbos where the 2019 and newer VR30's get revised turbos and software. More reliable long term.. Also, I've heard of porous blocks affecring older cars which means with miles then those car's radiators start losing coolant mysteriously. If that issue in not under warranty then a new block would be very expensive. Yes on the 2016-2017 VR30 turbos with 40,000+ miles there's a good chance the turbos are getting close to their end. Not every turbo but a fair share. Yes, also turning up the boost from 9psi and 14.5 psi Redsport model to 18-19-20 psi does put more stress on parts but if the car is taken care of/not driven into the ground/modified properly verses improperly (downpioes no tune or long term blowoff valves no tune and driven hard for 20k miles) then it can run well for many years and be less of a headache. Upside of unknown used 3.0t is cheaper but downside potential more expensive down the road in maintance that was never done and then parts being used up. Down side of buying a good, certified pre-owned, taken care of and documented Q50-60 3.0t is more expensive but upside warranty, less headaches, less money that has to be put back into the car and more reliability. If you can find a cheap 2016 and the motor checks out and you budget for new, after market turbos and then proper ECU tuning and proper fuel mods then you can get into a fast sleeper for under 30k and close to 600 hp. Just got to buy the right car.
If tuned right can be higher. All depends on the correct tuning. No blowoff valves needed. BOV was miss information and the attempt to worry people into thinking this Q50-60 car's turbos needed them and that the Infiniti motor designers were clueless.
Awesome numbers wow! From those AMS intakes and heat exchanger!? I mean weather was perfect for those turbos so these gains seems great! Imagine just a lower downpipe with this aggressive tune the car might have too much power for just those two wheels lol good stuff man!👌👍
My tuner Jotech Motorsports says it's not super aggressive. They tune all their 3.0t motors the same and some with exhausts and downpipes are making a little more 455rwhp and 505-510 ft-lb torque. With 430 to 450 whp it does feel like a lot. As of now the tuned Q50 & Q60's definitely have to much power to put to the ground because of the choice Infiniti made to go with the open differential setup. It's literally a one wheel burnout until the car's ABS brakes attempt to take the one wheel spinning to the moon and then differentiate that 500+ ft-lb torque to the other side. My doubt is can the car's VDC even manage these elevated numbers. In my car I think I can say the answer is no. I can't believe more people with these tuned cars aren't discussing Limited slip differentials. Likely the cost and not just a simple bolt-on. I should make a video titled open diff/tuned & tire smoke. Not the car's fault. Even the AWD's have open rear diffs and rear wheel drive biased distribution so still pretty weak for 500 plus hp. Other than that a very good, enjoyable and luxury like sedan. The Red Sport model of these cars definitely should have been equiped with a more suitable heat exchanger and the LSD rear-end option. Do you have one of these cars or are you looking to get one in the future? Thanks for posting.
Getting thru Life hey! I am looking at this or a slightly used 2017 Audi A6 3.0 supercharged. I like the price point and what can be done with just an intake, downpipe and tune here. I still want something with room that I can haul the kids to school and have fun on my commute to school. I recently sold my 2010 Subaru Legacy GT (6speed) that was stage 1 with just a COBB 93 map tune which was amazing! I really miss that car but it only had about 280 horsepower and 300 torque to the wheels so this would be a big jump. But I agree with you people just aren’t talking about the traction mostly because they like to break it loose I guess until 3th or 4th year when it stops peeling. Do you still have the stock rubbers on the car? I hear those are pretty bad also....but either way I hope tuners one NJ can get this kind of power gains from a tune with and intake and maybe downpipe. I still want the car to be manageable to where if the kids want to sleep in the back they can without any drone or load noise
@@dannypersaud387 I went out and bought new tires immediately like within a few hundred miles. I made a short video on the things that need to be done immediately to this car and tires was one of them along with a quality oil catch can like the Mishimoto brand. I had a 2013 Ford Focus ST with the Cobb AccessPort tuner, a few 93 octane 30-40ish hp gain tunes, oil catch can, Steeda front mount intercooler, intercooler piping, Cobb air intake kit, shifter linkage bushing, a Boomba rear motor mount and forged aluminum wheels. That car was front-wheel drive and was always hindered by that drivetrain but was quick and fun. It was well under 300 hp to the wheels. This car (Q50) tweaked with just a tune is righteous! There is nowhere in Dallas to even open up this car during the day. If you do and get caught you're going to jail because it builds power and hits 120-130 extremely easy. This car with a tune and with these little twin turbos is a monster in the realm of in the city 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. It's not a dedicated top tier roll racer against the V8 competition unless it's off the line where it should put car lengths on the competition until the top gears and mph climbs into the tripple digits. In my book, a race is always from a start so traction + acceleration is king. It seems like a lot of people on youtube that I follow live in the Northeast and in and around NJ/New york. The Audi or the fast BMW's are very cool and fast cars too.
I guess you are pointing to the intakes. I disagree. My car baseline no tune with the intakes installed hit 315 whp. Many other stock 3.0t's slight below or close to 300whp Dyno. I was not expecting to like them as much but if I where to do this again with a new Q50, I would buy them again for 399( I bought them Black Friday sale). Q50's with $1000+ exhausts and $700 downpipes, many of them producing slightly less torque them my car did and 5 to 15 more hp. The added power from these intakes add to the power in the right range which is in the higher rpm of each gear. Take that for what it's worth.
@@samtheman7043 I watch that video like 5 months ago. A good video. I like their videos. That result came from a bunch of different variables which were not good. Extreme heat, fans blowing hot air, maybe the on the spot tuning they did, 93 octane content or lack of 93, their setup of aftermarket fuel pumps for pump gas and I assume injectors because this car won't run e-85 with stock injectors and their car had been tuned previously on e-85. Don't buy the AMS intakes if you don't think they are worth it. It won't bother me. Anyways, thanks for posting your comment. I like to see people comment! I don't think the AMS intakes are $500 retail good but most definitely worth 299-399. We could have really learned something useful if they had data logged. Should be a part of a before and after comparison to look and analyze the data collected. I made a data logging video: ua-cam.com/video/vR6dTy1Lhac/v-deo.html
I have not lost my warranty. I've got a friend here in Dallas who has a 2018 RedSport and he has his car (tuned, lower downpipes/removed secondary catalytic converters, blowoff valves, Mishimoto heat exchanger, AMS low speed fuel pump) and the dealership here knows about all of it and still honors Infiniti warranty. Due to technical issues he's had his turbos replaced no charge and than few months later he had the dealership replace his whole motor and two turbos again, all under warranty. From what I've seen, someone would have to intentionally make the biggest screwups and beg Infiniti to not warranty their car. At least this is protocol here in Dallas Texas.
The benefit of getting a new red sport 400 is it's higher hp with a full warranty. You buy a 300hp 3.0t and tune it then you do risk warranty issues if you break/wear out parts related to the modifications you made while under warranty. Tuning the 300 hp 3.0t ecu typically can make 20-30 more hp alone then a stock Redsport. Most new 3.0t motors make 300whp stock. Most stock Redsports make low 380ish whp. Most Ecutek tuned 3.0t's make with just tuning 400-430whp depending on boost amount set in the tune.
@@GettingthruLife jb4. Warranty issue solved. Had my q60 rs warantied for turbos when I was jb4 tuned lol. Took down ov cars as well never ran an ecu tek tuned car while I had it.
Actually the red sport has a few more upgrades then the 300hp cars such as better intercooler bigger also has a speed controller for the turbos to pretty much stay spooled at all times so no delay... They add 3 or 4 more things to the red sport 4 cooling and efficiency I know that's what I have... The red sport is pretty much set up to take on upgrades And handle much more horsepower there's a few things in the engine they also do but I would have to look that up
These vR30 twin turbo cars have a big amount of room to grow with just a Ecutek tune. If infiniti would have spec'd a more suitable sized heat exchanger from the factory then that wouldn't need to be upgraded for tuning which can be a hassle and an added expense. With a reputable tune and a aftermarket free-flowing CBE can make 440rwhp and 500 tq. Add lower downpipes and make another 10hp.
Yea I have poked fun at that similarity too. Kenny Tran the owner of Jotech Motorsports and of course he's of Asian decent. He's been a serious fast and the furious type contender modifying foreign cars since the late 70's early 1980's.
To get a 3.0t tuned by one of the 5-6 reputable tuners it's likely going to cost between $1,450 and 1,640 for Ecutek license, bluetooth dongle, laptop key and custom tune. If you are going to do this locally at a shop then there might be extra for dyno tuning time $150-250. Before tuning and modifying this car or the Q60 it is highly recommended that you invest in a aftermarket, larger and more robust heat exchanger. Heat exchanger upgrades sell between $250 for the basic and $700/800 for the premium option. Install charge for heat exchanger $300-400 typically. Hope this helps.
Hi, I have an Ecutek phone app question. Which widget to use on the "Dashboard" to accurately show the boost pressure your vehicle is running at at that moment? Which widget are you using?
To see the actual boost level minus atmospheric pressure for you elevation...you can log manifold pressure. Boost bank 1 & 2 measures boost plus atmospheric pressure together so higher number.
Yep, Jotech at 3513 Dividend Dr, Garland, TX 75042. I won't suggest they are the greatest Infiniti 3.0T VR30 tuner option but they are good folks and know a lot about and invest more time in making GTR's fast, Mclaren's, Supras, Honda's, Porsche and some Lamborghini's. I went with a new tuner last month so I could get some things worked out and feel a little better about how the cars is running.
Lol funny story man I started seeing your videos and man thank you for the feedback. I'm looking for hussein's race box lol! Thanks man! Let me know when you guys do your meets and I'll be out there man!
not for nothing but you were able to achieve 440hp with 500+lbs torque by just tuning is awesome!!! my question is are you overheating or burning oil faster and are you having any issues with the engine because of the tuning?
No, oil consumption is very little per a turned up turbo- charged engine. About normal or at least mine is. As for the added boost per tuning it does create a more heated Charge air temp and charge air coolant temp per WOT run so that is the reason to upgrade the heat exchanger which most likely needs to be done on these cars depending on climate. Comes more into play when running the car all out back to back...over and over. Realistically with a ecutek tune from the tuners can expect 415whp to 450whp is common with basic supporting mods. Mine was 433whp but most of the time I'm running the 410whp map and 475ish torque. When you turn the engine performance parameters up a fair amount you decrease longevity to a degree for parts like the factory turbos. Running them more conservatively and not wide open all the time helps to make them last longer. Afternarket turbos would typically more durable.
@@GettingthruLife i have to ask i am going to be getting a car here in dec. Would you recommend getting the 2013 g37 (rwd) or the 2017 q50 3.0t (awd)? Just like to get ideas because it's a daily but eventually i'll track it. (Looking at 2016 ecoboost also but i hear reliability is meh)
@@RangerxTurbo I do the 3.0t because so easy to add 110hp and 170+ torque. Just make sure you throughly check the 3.0t awd drive out too to bottom and underneath. Check oil color/level, pull out an air filter, check for maintenance records, look for modifications or signs of aftermarket mod install, check for wreck/damage history computer and visual inspection and make sure every bottom and dial works in the car unless specified broken by owner.
Yes all depends on prices and what can afford or feels like the best deal. 3.0t has more hp performance for money you have to spend. A tune and HX I was at or close to 500hp motor and 500 torque.
That was on the Jotech Motorsports dyno. All I had was their 93 tune, AMS intake kit along with a heat exchanger upgrade to better control the added heat. Now I have a full 2.5 cat back exhaust where the factory CBE is 1.75-1.50 o.d. in spots. Bottomline the car needs CATs because we live here in a new United States with a green new deal administration. I can safely say I went from 305-310 factory whp to between 440-450 who with tuning and CBE exhaust with high flow muffler. Sounds almost as quiet as the factory exhaust system but deeper. The 3.0t Infiniti/Nissan motor is the real deal for a mass produced motor that's not sold in a 70k-90k car, besides 5.0 Coyote engine or a Dodge 392.
@@GettingthruLife That's wild dude. This car is literally a performance bargain. Its like BMW M5 performance for Toyota Camry money (if Q bought used). Have you taken it to the track? What quarter miles are you trapping?
Hey. Awesome video man! If you could drop the list of how much everything costed you tune, heat exchanger , and everything else you have done. Are you looking to bring those number up any higher or are you satisfied?
I am pretty happy with where it is. I will be honest and say this 434 whp and 513 tq map worries me just a tad. Even though Jotech owner thinks I foolish for not fully trusting their tuning skills and the cars they have running around. The car is just angry and stupid fast. The open differential in this car is the kind of the Crux of this platform. Traction is a mind numbing joke when boost kicks in at low rpm 1st, second gear or even 3 gear at the proper rpm. I am running everyday a detuned version because l don't feel like I'm killing the car as much. Between the 410whp and 434 whp map the car is much more predictable and livable though the higher performance map will get used at the proper time. My Heat Exchanger is the Burger Motorsports $299 version..$50 dollar 2 bottles of Nissan HE fluid though 1 jug is enough if you try to save fluid. $65 for the airvac tool to vaccum fill/ suck out the air of he system. 2. Jotech Motorsports tune Ectuek ...$980 tune, dyno tuning session and after sale support 3. AMS Red Alpha Intakes...I like them...I bought kit on sale 399.00 Mishimoto oil catch can $230 plus l put it on the car close to new with 400 miles on the odometer. My car baseline dyno'd 315whp stock which is strong. I attribute that to the motors health and it's effeciency due to clean intake valves. 93 Octane fuel and stock exhaust which includes stock downpipes. Next mod if I fall into some money to burn will be a limited slip differential about 2k installed. That rear end will make this car a rocket because then can put down that sick low-end torque likely full power. No back pedaling or roll on the throttle slowly. Tire spin with 513 torque is unmanageable.
Getting thru Life I appreciate your time responding to me. I went ahead and orderd the stage 3 kit. ECUTek tune heat exchanger coolant expansion tank, downpipes, and intakes. Also have an mbrp catback exhaust. I have the AWD version. Very excited to see how it holds up with the aggressive tune. I have a good set of tires as well. So I’ll keep you posted on the build. I should be done with everything Monday!
@@laxincg Very nice. Your car will be an animal. I like your exhaust choice. I remember that name from my Ford ST days and I will consider them to if I every decide to make my car louder. Going with the AMS package will have you all set up with plug and play. Just find a good/reputable place to install heat exchanger, supporting mods and exhaust pieces. Yes stay in touch.
Yes, first upgrade the heat exchanger. I went PLM brand because a close copy of the AMS heat exchanger and a couple $100 cheaper. Mishimoto makes a very good heat exchanger but a little more than PLM. Next is the Ecutek tune from a tuner you trust and like. I"m tuned by Racebox but there are 5-6 other good tuners as well including AMS Performance but likely most expensive. Next is a cat-back-exhaust 2.5 or 3". Then if you get properly tuned for it then you can get full/lower downpipes. Only do this with the tune made to run the downpipes by a proper tuner. The next mod that people are seeing big gains, 600hp+ with a proper ethanol tune which means you need new, higher flow injectors. You will also need a low pressure fuel pump plus a new upgraded high pressure fuel pump. Not a bad idea to get the AMS ethanol fuel filter to be safe so less problems with clogged injectors. The most expensive part is the ethanol mod portion if done right, Approx $3,000. To reach 500 at the motor hp what you need is heat exchanger $460, Ecutek tune 1,200-1,400, and a Cat-back exhaust because the factory CBE is 1.75" in a few spots and needs to be 2.5" all throughout. CBE range 1,250 - 1,450. Bottom line, what minimum you can get away with is heat exchanger upgrade and Ecutek VR30, 93-92 octane fuel tune. Skip blowoff valves all together and lower downpipes unless you get tuned for them plus you need the CBE upgrade to increase exhaust flow. Increase from factory 300whp car to 430-440 whp with 93Ecutek octane tune and 490-500 torque +..
It's pretty well known now that this trans can handle up to 700 hp and give or take 700+ ft of torque. Above that then its recommended to start thinking about upgrading to a reinforced trans and torque converter. Also, driveshaft and axles would be a good idea too.
I hear ya. When I stated in this 3 years ago there was even less info out so I was super clueless. You just need to call his shop and talk to one of his employees where they will talk you through the process. A remote tune is a very good way to get tuned where they will tell you the steps to get your tune dialed in for your exact car and conditions. When I got tuned it was limited, now there is a lot more choices and price points. (832) 786-9038 they will send you the Ecutek dongle that plugs into your car's OBD II port reader (to the left, under your steering wheel. They will give you the option to load the tune and the revisions either through a laptop PC or now your cell phone with Bluetooth. Thanks for posting and hope I was somewhat helpful. If you don't live in Houston Texas area, cant drive there, they will mail you the things you need to start the tuning process.
Three months after this Jotech 93 tune, I turned around and sought Hussain Boxwala's tuning expertise. My car runs great and hasn't missed a beat. Important to note: Buying a used car that was tuned with 30kplus thousand miles or they ran their JB4 with very little knowledge of how to set it up properly in the custom setting or they bought into the misinformation online and purchased full catless/lower downpipes in addition to free flowing cat-back exhaust without being tuned for them, then these car's turbos go out either for that owner or the new owner. That's how these VR30/3.0T's have gotten a bad wrap. People that buy these cars don't seem to take care of them because lease or they don't plan on keep them after a few years. 1. Got to find a Q50-60 that was taken care of and tuned right. Next got to have a car that has had it's oil changed 4-6K miles depending on abuse/driving conditions. I change my oil approx 3.5K to 4.5K while beating on it from time to time. Run 0w-20 synthetic oil in the winter and 5W-30 in the summer. Tune the turbos to see about 18 to 19 psi mid rpm and taper down towards 6-6,500 rpm. As long as you don't drive it into the ground these 120 plus hp gains should be manageable for years for driving enjoyment. The factory cheap turbos while tuned may not last as long as non tuned turbos just because while being tuned from 10 psi/14.5 psi up to 18-19psi creates more wear and tear. Hope this helps. I love my car and it's as awesome as the day I got it July 2019, better because close to 500hp motor and 500+ tq. Shreds tires...even 19" drag radial and Toyo R888R 285x19".
Depending on where you go (the tuner/shop) and if you do the tuning in person or remotely and then if you purchase the Ecutek Bluetooth OBD II module or the laptop cable version. With all that said likely $900 to $1600. Check out the Ecutek website and search for tuners in your area.
@@GettingthruLife I'm just north of you in the OKC metro area. I thought about going with AMS but I wanted to hear your experience and cost with them. I recently purchased a red sport so I'm still deciding what route to take.
@@nis_bro Well my scenerio, I've been a Jotech fan for years. I've driven past their area for years and years and they always have/had a parking lot full of extreme GTRs and these day plenty of exotic super cars pumping out 1000 plus hp. I went online to the Ecutek website and looked for a Infiniti tuner. Jotech was listed as a master tuner there. AMS charges 1599-1699 for their tuning services and you would need to do it remotely if you don't plan on going to Chicago with your car. I like AMS but you are going to pay a premium for their services. Jotech here if you go with them will install the Ecutek license and then dyno tune your car so that it's tuned precisely to your car. I'm happy with Jotech Motorsports. This is likely your choice to have your car tuned in person on one of their dynos. $980 was the price for their services which I paid for their dyno tuning session. They are not a big proponent of the need to buy the Ecutek Bluetooth dongle/ laptop cable because they tune your car in the spot. No need to datalog back and forth thru email with a far away tuner. They sell the Ecutek dongle if someone really wants one but it adds $300 and is not a necessity. You would just need to set up an appointment with them and then bring your car into Dallas. 2.5-3hrs away from Oklahoma City. If your car is completely stock then you will likely get the same tune I have and others that are running around Dallas/Ft Worth area. Stock Red sports are putting down I think 380 ish whp and under 400 torque. You can expect to get 430-440 whp (500 motor) and over 500 torque. 450 - 460 with a AMS downpipe. They are a vendor and work with AMS plus have AMS parts in their shop.
@@nis_bro I went back this morning to get the map switching activated with the full boost map and the lower boost map 434 vs 410 whp. Also, got Seth to configure my launch control through the Ecuteck software & the cruise control button. Both of the changes are working very well. Surprised how good the launch control manages to apply power now in 1st gear. Going to be awesome to use it!
I'm assuming you are talking about on my dash in the center display. It has that option on mine, 2019, to display the speed by cycling thru display options on steering wheel.
There are plenty of folks running 500 hp plus to the wheels and near 600 lb-ft of torque. Just depends on how you drive it and where you are driving it. Above that, upgrade for grippy track use.
Enjoyed watching your video. I live in Florida so summer tires work for me (like Texas). What tires are you running now? Do you have a favorite tire? I have a 2019 Q50S (not red sport). I’m looking to improve tires and suspension first. Maybe add horsepower later.
I really like my 245x40R19 Pirelli P-Zero Nero summer tires (280 treadwear) for everyday and travel. The Toyo R888R 285/35R19 rears gave me my best acceleration performance times on the street with no rollout 3.8 sec 0-60mph, 1.8 60 foot. My Firestone Indy 500 tires I tried were an embarrassment as far as quick times. I had also tried the brand new at the time Nitto NT555R II for rear tire 275x19R40 and they were good but not as good as the R888R tire. In the sense, all the tires I have tried have been a let down as I still spin with ease even the 285 Toyo R888R's. If I had the opportunity to buy a new set of rears for pure traction It would be either the Mickey Thompson ET Street R (275/40R17) or more likely their ET Street Radial Pro (245/60R15). Both the M.T. tire choices would require me to purchase new rear wheels which is a downer. The M.T. are not daily driver tire choices as they don't like rain and will wear out quickly as a main driving tire.
I love my car. Need to get mine tuned as well, and a HE. Massive Hp from stock. I for sure want to bump that up to 400 wheel though. What did you turn it down to?
I don't have the latest dyno chart numbers as last visit to Jotech to adjust tune I ended up forgetting. Now that this virus crap is in full effect everything is disrupted. Most everything is going to be in a holding pattern for months moving forward. I'd assume I'm around 450-460 torque and likely 410 rwhp. Now that I've done this tuning thing and have more experience with this platform I'd say I'd rather be on the safe side because my car is so new and it's my only car. I love and enjoy my '19 Q50S where I would hate to prematurely damage it/wear out the turbos or cause damage to trans. Aftermarket downpipes and removing cats will/can likely damage stock turbos over time 10-20k miles JFYI. A modded turbo setup can then handle aftermarket dp's, removed cats and 2.75-3" full exhaust for big power. Hope this helps answer your question. Let me know if you have more questions 😊
Getting thru Life the lock down sucks! My 18 Q50S is also my only car. I haven’t heard anyone say the lower down pipes would be bad for your turbos. Would a blow off valve counter act the wear you are talking about? If I keep the car then I will end up putting bigger turbos on it for a 500-600 whp car like the 9 second Q60 AMS has.
@@Aspen910 Well hopefully it won't be a problem. The oem turbos just aren't very durable in some aspects from what I've seen and read. Opening up the downpipes and freeing up the exhaust allows them to spool up quicker and spin faster thereby creating more stress and wear. Different higher caliber turbos would/will handle the stuff were talking about but that can lead to warranty failure on cheaper oem setup. Just something to be aware of. Oil leaks in the front and oil/smoke in the exhaust would be signs. Only reason why I'm not jumping on the do bandwagon with a newish car. Also if no cats or just 2cat choice that will be an automatic/no questions ask warranty voider for most of the engine at most dealerships. Plus I hear hit or miss with check engine warning light. Reason why I'm keeping all my cats, stick dp's and similar setup to the stock exhaust format but making it all CBE 2.5" with a properly constructed and positioned x-pipe. If I can get myself to hang on to this car long enough then one day I would like to think that I'd be willing to upgrade the turbos, fuel system and make 600-700whp.
If getting your Q50 turned up with more power then I do recommend a upgraded heat exchanger. The stock/oem unit does a poor job maintaining the proper compressed air temps the car needs to sustain making power. Not efficient. One of the downsides to tuning a car's motor is now it's going to produce even more heat by providing the extra combustion. In short, the car will become "heat soaked" after just a small amount of use. Once the car get See's the elevated compressed air intake temps and then the intercoolers can't remove that heat then the car's ecu is going to remove/pull power to protect it's health. In the summer months and even spring time it will or can become an issue. Sucks that a person needs to spend this extra time and money since the car should have been equiped with one that works but it is what it is. Almost all the off the showroom floor turbo cars with air to air intercoolers need them replaced too because they don't function well enough.
@@AtoMiCxMODs Yes, the BM heat exchanger is working well. I suggest if you or whoever installs it that you put back the left and right plastic duct work that directs the airflow onto the heat exchanger and radiator. Seem many people leave out this step because it's more of a hassle. The passanger side piece needs some cutting/grinder/Dremel work to make it fit properly. Just like many installs with more of a custom installation. Also, need to make sure that the heat exchanger system is filled up completely with no air pockets remaining or you could run into problems. I cover this in my Burger Motorsports install video on UA-cam.
0n my car before it was tuned, baseline, with the AMS intakes, the car made 315 whp. A strong, healthy non-Red Sport 3.0t will make 295 to 300 whp typically. So in my estimation and from the dyno results from AMS, their intakes can add up to 15 peek whp at the upper rpm. This is good for the Infiniti 3.0t motor with the tiny twin turbos because they fall flat, run out of juice like 5.7k rpm. Modified factory turbos are a different story. Also, Z1 motorsports makes their own infiniti/nissan airbox kit which is modeled directly after the AMS intake/filters/couplers. Best time to buy AMS is when they are on sale for $375-399.
@@cowboycarter956 most cars intakes don't add much if any but more advantage with turbo cars to fine tune intake track and get smooth air into the turbo/s. Read the Z1 Motorsports intro to their new airboxs for the 3.0t Infiniti motor www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-cold-air-intake-system-p-24740.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA6NOPBhCPARIsAHAy2zAiDG8P0adRQamexFUzXqQkDkWF4GV0lt62dIuFn8u-SWptSqIHk6oaAqRYEALw_wcB
I have all 4 of my CATs on my where I didn't and still don't like the idea of taking them off or just removing the lower 2. They are a big issue mostly at the dealerships if removed. Removed CATs is easy to spot, a tune is not just visually seen through a casual inspection. This motor runs fine with it's CATs and the tuning process is not affected otherwise. Lower dp's are probably good for another 10 maybe on a good day 12whp from many dyno sheets I've seen.
My first tuning session was with Jotech Motorsports as seen here in this video. I went with them because they were local, had a dyno and had been a premium tuner for Nissan GTR cars. Come to find out that in the opinion of many and what would become my opinion over time was/is that they had such little experience with the platform, knowing the ins and outs of this Infiniti VR30 3.0t motor/ecu. After my tuning at Jotech, I encountered problem after problem were the car was not performing right. After many attempts to fine tune the car at Jotech, I came to my senses and recognised that I needed to go with a new tuner. I walked away from that tune/money...$1000 and spent another $570 for a remote tune (email process with datalogging and revisions) with a tuner who had more time tuning this motor package and it's ecu/ecm. I still believe Jotech is a good company, but in my opinion from my observation and experience, they put forth more of their attention towards the vehicles that draw in more money, example Lamborghini, Mclaren, $10k-30k GTR builds, Porsche and some others. Long story short, I feel much better about the tune I have now we're the car runs better in my opinion, is safer so less problems and I would bet makes similar power 500 crank hp and 495-500 torque.
Likely 20-21 psi but what people don't get is that peak 20-21 is so brief in time, like a 20th of a second and then tapers off quickly as rpm's climb in the gear. Near 17-18 or lower at 6,400 to 6,800 rpm. Then next gear comes in and it's not as high boost as 1 and 2nd gear with torque dropping with these small turbos.Just like setting up a JB4 with different maps and tapering off the boost as many do or should be doing. Boost spike during gear shift are mili-seconds long where waste gates electronically open up to relieve 24-25psi moments plus throttle body with the auto trans doesn't full close shut to cap of boost. I can track it all in great detail on datalogs so it's accurate info based off cars computer. Good tuners with years of experience know what they are doing as long as air fuel good and running slightly rich under WOT throttle and engine knock is being controlled safely.. A lot if people don't datalog because they can't make sense of the numbers and how to view them. Depending on the number of parameters being logged, one minute if logging can record 500-700 numbers in a chart like format. Tough to look at but Datazap online displays it easily where it's much easier to see and read. People can wear out their engine and turbos more buy not changing their oil when it get dirty/broken down, shutting you car off quickly while it's running hot, pushing your car while it's hot and running the fluids low.
You are going to want to check. Things have changed a lot since I git tuned. There are more options these days and various degrees of tuning. I'd look up Racebox, AMS, Z1 Motorsports, or Sonic tuned.
@@keithrichards5688or the performance gains I’d say it’s worth it. With 3-4k in mods you’re keeping up with 40-50 hell even 60 thousand dollar cars when you can pick up a q50 3.0 for as little as 18k
Oh man I wish it was higher that's for sure...like 95 at least. I'm just not ready to drop 3,000 dollars to run E50-60-80. My car is so fast already that I can't nail the pedal at anything under 40 mph and that's with 285 width R888R Toyo tires. 245 summer soft tires and it pointless to even get into boost.
its not, you dont understand the difference in octane measurement, thats all. most countries use RON to rate fuel while America and a few others use (R+M)/2. its an average of RON and MON ratings. RON only doesn't take the fuel's sensitivity into account, (R+M)/2 does, it's a more reliable rating. 90 RON = 86.5 (R+M)/2 95 RON = 91.0 (R+M)/2 98 RON = 94.0 (R+M)/2 its roughly equivalent.
I first had this car tuned locally. Then, not being 100% happy out on the road with the results, I then did a remote car tune over the internet/email with a new tunerl. I don't recommend just tuning while running on a dyno because a number of things are not encountered the same when running just on a dyno. Recording data logs while testing is key for the better results.
A bone stock 3.0t Redsport from the factory makes very close to 385-390 whp and its just comes down to different ecu tuning. The redsport does have upgraded hx cooling by mean of a extra pump.plus a oil cooler just to point out.
I am not running aftermarket downpipes. I have kept the car's full oem downpipes and all 4 cats. I will be upgrading the CBE (cat-back exhaust) next week when it comes in the mail. My thinking is yes the oem downpipes are a constricted point and then added constriction with cats but that is a short distance, at the beginning point of the exhaust flow. The CBE I chose is the full 2.5" from cats back to the tips. This will greatly aid in helping the car to not struggle as much to push the exhaust out to then pull in more air and start the process over again. Plus the Maganaflow 15310 cbe has the perfect looking/placed/constructed x-pipe that functions to help suck out/flow the exhaust gasses out (scavenging), big big plus of a good x-pipe design. Not going to be big gain in hp but will likely see/feel benefits because stock exhaust is so small and crazy pencil thin.
@@BeastedCustoms I don't know...that could be a concern or no concern at all. Oil burning if not a super high mileage motor could be the turbo/s starting to leak oil. I'm not a professional mechanic that works on turbo cars so I'm no authority on the matter. Just from my investigation on this car in the early days before I got mine I read OEM turbos can have longevity issues with aftermarket downpipes and no cats or partial cats. I don't have the confirmed research at my fingertips but enough concern for me to not get them at least till I need new turbos that can handle wide open dps and exhaust like AMS big turbo kit.
Getting thru Life I was concerned at first then I started reading on forums a lot and I guess it’s common as long as it’s evaporating smoke and not staying on the air, I’m sitting at 74k miles so who knows if my turbos go I think I’m going to go to a pure turbo setup.
Getting thru Life You can buy used 2016 Q50 OEM lower cats and just remove the catalytic core and have an OEM free flowing LDP. I might do do later on my car. Currently, I have a resonated HKS ldp, but it’s going to be a PITA to replace it back to stock if I need to bring it for any engine or turbo issues in the future. It’s also not guaranteed how Mod friendly some dealers are when they see an aftermarket LDP. Right now I also have a frozen boost 118 heat exchanger. I’m leasing the car and will buy a slightly used 2019 Sports as replacement and put all my mods to the new car. So next time I’ll just use an OEM LDP (hollowed) and an Infiniti Heat exchanger and intake too keep the stock like dealership friendly look.
Reason why I switched my tune from Jotech Motorsports was the car was constantly throwing DCT codes. One time a PCM over boost and the likely over 100 TCM codes related to transmission errors and torque converter errors. Was happening over time period of many months with little explanation and not solutions. Also too, other things happened which were questionable and just helped me to feel less sure/happy with the tuning process their. I switched over to Hussain and the car just ran better, smoother, stopped throwing all codes, and also boost wasn't crank up as high. Jotech tune was seeing peak boost 22-23 psi and likely 24 psi during shifts even though the shop manager told me these VR30's need to stay around 18- 18.5 psi for reliability and less heat per their turbo efficiency zone. Plus Hussain Boxwala and some of the other more popular tuners have their own personal Q50-60 cars and tune on their own cars so more time and experience with this specific platform which means a lot.
You can do a remote tune and live anywhere which in all reality I feel is better because you'ure actually tuning from real world driving data with natural airflow and moving/rolling. The dyno is just a tool that's useful for tuning when you can establish a baseline and then as you tune or add parts you can see the gains. A useful tool but needs to be ran really on the same dyno with no changes to the dyno Everytime to compare equal data. Even then things will flucuate due to the weather and month. The dyno will also establish a number hp/tq so you can share. In my opinion I'd choose a AMS or Racebox remote tune and call it done. These two have tuned so many cars that they can get you in the ball park with just their base tune. Call them to find out more details.
With that Jotech Motorsports tune 93 octane (AMS airbox kit and Burger Motorsports intercoller) stocks catalytic converters and factory CBE = 434 rwhp and 513 max torque. If tuned (only safe/proper way to to do so) full lower catted downpipes with a proper 2.5 CBE = 457 - 463 rwhp.
@@alanmusa7143 no you do not but the factory cutback exhaust is tiny diameter.and in a section is only one pipe about 1.9-2.0 in diameter. A good/well designed after market cbe will have two-2.5" pipes or 3" pipes. These will flow more air/exhaust out and allow more air/intake to be consumed. Tuning along with just a legit cbe will add the most hp/ little less torgue peak numbers. A ecutek tune, cbe and Z1/AMS airbox kit is a great start along with needing to upgrade the tiny Infiniti intercooler/heat exchanger $450-525.00.
what you got going on? My work schedule is random and I get scheduled out of the blue where I travel around dallas, in the state and out of state. Hard to say when I have time but I'm not opposed to helping a fellow 3.0T enthusiast if I'm just sitting around. Just depends on what your installing and time.
@@GettingthruLife well right now since I got my car almost new I'm worried about my warranty since I still have some but I was thinking using jb4 and carback exhaust for the meantime.
I'm not a big fan of the JB4 but if you don't overdo the increase/cranking up of the boost they can provide added hp cheaper. Professional tuning is the best and safest way to turn up boost. When you add boost, you change the demand for a lot of things. Better and safer in the long run to calibrated the ecu/ecm but more expensive due to the level of precision and personalization. Catback exhaust is an option that can be added with no worry but tuning the car for each modification adds some benefits. Good tires are the baseline for everything else. Not as exciting as increased boost and sound but more grip, more comfort, sometimes less noise and better cornering feel adds to the overall car experience.
@@GettingthruLife nicee I remember whenever u took it to a dealer they did not bother you with voiding your warranty? I got mines from sewell infiniti on lemmon so idk about them.
I have little worry about my cars warranty. My car drives as good or better then the day I brought it home. If there comes a day that my tiny, baby turbos wear out...I'll have little prob upgrading to two bigger and more efficient turbos and a new tune.
For the love of God please remove the pin stripes 😳 it takes away from the natural lines of the car. Back in the day they did stripes because Japanese cars didn't have sharp lines
So the badging that came on the back of my car's trunk showing Q50S from the dealership was wrong? I refer to it in my videos as what it is as identified as by this badging. I have never told or written anywhere on youtube that it's "the sport" model. In my intro to my videos with the badging, that is a physical picture of my rear car model emblem. You don't seem to be fully up on your product info or at least on the '19 cars. This edition, my car has the sport interior and body work plus some other cool/helpful features like 360 parking camera and the 19" wheels. What it does not have are the paddle shifters which I've discussed in various videos, no nav, no electronic suspension, and minus the bigger brakes and the +sport settings even though I'm tuned well beyond sport plus. So in fact, I am correct to refer to it as a Q50S Signature Edition. Hope that helps clarify things for you.
Also, if I'm not mistaken the Red Sport model are the ones that have the additional sport + mode but since I don't have these cars I'm not guaranteeing that 100%.
@@m.a.4446 Both the sport and the Red Sport have the paddle shifters but I was sort of sure that that the RedSport was the one that had the sport plus mode for shift/suspension/steering setting.
Getting thru Life I’m not saying your wrong, but I have a q50s and it has the paddles and sport plus. It’s not the red sport. Also great video I’m looking to get a tune at jotech in the near future I live in Allen.
Latest news and update: I have chosen to go with a new tuner at Racebox -Hussain Boxwala. I am not dyno tuning the car this time so until a time that I have access to a dyno I won't have the current rwhp and torque numbers but I can safely say the car is just as powerful but yet smoother to drive and while not pushing the turbos past 19 psi. Not the case before.
What's wrong with Johnny Tran? Why'd you switch?
Put blow off valves on, there cheap and will make the turbo sound way better. And it will increase your cars lifetime !!
I was about to say. Boost seems too high, and drops fast.
@@nighthawk0077 that's how it works best and stays less harsh on the turbos. I'm since tuned by Racebox 2020, better for the car.
@@bputty9322 HKS BOV + adapter kit + installation is not cheap!!!!!
I went back this morning Sat Fed 15 to get the map switching activated with the full boost map and the lower boost map 434 vs 410 whp. Also, got Seth to configure my launch control through the Ecuteck software & the cruise control button now that I have the Ecutek Bluetooth dongle/OBD II module. Both of the changes are working very well. Surprised how good the launch control manages to apply power now in 1st gear. Break boost 2.5K hold and step off the brake and dam! Going to be awesome to use it!
One of the times I had one of my Mustangs tuned, the tuner was outside the car and had ME drive the car on the dyno. One of the most harrowing experiences of my life. Driving the car balls out and hoping the straps hold.
Amazing power with just intakes and heat extractor! Wow!
I'm full bolt on as in intakes,lower downpipes,catback,3 inches on downpipes and catback plus the AMS heat exchanger plus I did blow off valves and oil catch can. And with out a tunes there was a massive increase by doing the exhaust it so restricted. I've been like this for 9 months or so problem free. I don't want to tune it until my warranty is up. I have a 2017 Q60 red sport awd so I can wait for the warranty to be over especially seeing people pushing the stock turbos to much has caused a lot of turbo problems.
D Lugo people like you make no sense tune under warranty find a dealer that’s mod friendly these cars seem to be sketch after 60k
I'd be a little leary with 3" downpipes or any aftermarket dps/partial cats, even with just the lowers and a super free flowing CBE because many of the oem turbos have problems with new flow. Maybe you will be ok because not pushing them with a higher boost tune but something to understand. These failures happen over time depending on the abuse 10-20k miles. Anyways, thanks for reaching out to me and telling me about your experience and sharing your passion for your Q50-Q60. Keep it touch and let me know how things go and updates 😊
I woke up very early this morning thinking to myself, did I make a good/bad decision with this move. It was a nice chunk of change and an investment of my time to install the heat exchanger, AMS intakes, buy ecutek lic and Jotech tuning session so I would really regret this move if for some reason not right. I mean the car is insane/borderline scary with this amount of almost instant torque on 245 summer-only tires. The car drives normal for the most part but if you go into boost/half-way mash the pedal down it's laying down rubber uncontrollably or traction control is going to be screaming at you to get out of boost. I guess with more time driving the car I will become more comfortable with the throttle response, shifting and power delivery, but holy cow the difference is shocking. I felt the car was pretty strong from the factory with its little twin turbos spooling as quickly as they do but now it's like driving a car through black ice off the line. Definitely going to need new rear tires in the 275 rang with an overly soft compound. I guess I'll be looking at replacing those tires every 5-10K to get any sort of traction off the line or a 20mph-30mph roll.
Would love to see some 0-60 videos.
Sort of cold and wet here now but sometimes there are decent days. The negative part with my car is the 0 - 60 part. It's due to the amount of wheel spin with or without VDC. The only way to get off the line 1st and 2nd gear is to only use about 50% partial throttle all throughout those gears and even into third.
I have different Pirelli summer tires that are way better than the equiped run-flats but with the added power from the tune they might as well be made of hard rubber.
I don't know how the other folks are launching their Q50 - 60's with this open differential as mine just lights up the one rear tire and becomes pointless. My VDC vehicle dynamic control is overwhelmed and over powered by the 500 hp and Tq.
Next decision is to whether to try/buy a racing/drag like tire for the rear and just run that all the time or invest 2000-2.5k in a suitable limited slip differential.
433 WHP on a bone stock car is outrageous. this thing should put away a lot of very fast cars
These Infiniti/Nissan V6 VR30 motors are pretty redic when tuned. All ones really needs is a high quality 93 tune from say Racebox, AMS, B-Tuned some others too and the car is a pure tire scorthing machine. Two little turbos that spin up 10foot from 0-mph and heat peak hp and tq before 20 mph. The 1st/2nd investment should be a wicked soft rear tire for rwd versions. To be honest I rarely have the opportunity to really romp on it because excessive wheelspin. I'm not a fan of burn outs, donuts and drifting to show off so the added power is excessive for anything under 30mph. Takes a set of $800+ for tires and new 17" wheels to fit those tires because the tires that work only come 15" dia x 10" wide rear wheels or the 17" diameter 10", 10.5" wide +48 to +50 offset.
The Q50/Q60 is not really a platform designed for sport driving. No shocker, so not going to have the true sport/street racer ability of a Supra, BMW or even the newest Nissan Z unless you swap out/stiffen up a lot of things: add LSD, diff brace, stiffer trans mount, motormounts, subframe bushing collars, driveshaft upgrade but the AWD Q50-60 do provide more traction but cost similar to an upgraded rwd if buy new from dealership pricing.
@@GettingthruLifeq50s are just fast cars to have fun not a track car
@@JuanVega-uc1cn I agree with you. Not a sports car.
Not with that attitude 😂
Man you must be stoked. Those numbers are great.
Yea, pretty good numbers. These days with more upgrade available people be making 500-540 whp. My car was nearly brand new so a healthy motor. This was over 2 years ago. Car still run great and is healthy as far as I know. I soon after Jotech tuning got retuned at Racebox for different reasons after I added the 2.5" x-pipe cat-back exhaust so likely picked up 10whp.
Great numbers for only and intake and heat exchanger I went to jotech for my tune as well.
Intake wasn't really apart of the plan but at the last moment before the tuning session I found AMS RA Intake system $100 off and thought about testing before and after to verify AMS's claim. I will say I am actually a believer in the gains for this intake and this intake only.
Getting thru life yes I had the stillen one at first and it actually made my car jerk whenever I let go of the gas.
@@GilanA7X the AMS intake is good. I wouldn't say $500 good. 299.00 good. It flows more air as the little turbos start really sucking air. Likely adds a smidge more when the exhaust is enlarged half an inch throughout.
What part of Dallas do you run around in?
Getting thru Life more in the grapevine/grand prairie areas
Interesting, I didn't realize the 19 base came with the Sport front bumper. Do some more videos, I'll watch. I have a 18 Q50SS AWD.
This model was the mid 19 year release labeled the signature edition base on some of the sport models attributes and features. 360 camera, front radar, parking sensors front and rear, sport interior and seats, and sunroof minus larger brake calipers and some other options like electronic adjustable suspension and sport plus modes. No navigation either which I didn't need.
Great numbers!!
5:38 Johnny Tran!? Does he still have his $100k S2000? Lol
Wow, 434hp - 513lbs Impressive, From Stock 316hp - 333lbs!!!
Yes, I think so. The downside is with those high numbers my car was not acting right to some degree. I was questioning the tune. I've gone back and through that process to make me feel more comfortable with what I'm seeing on data logs and daily monitoring through the Ecutek app. The car has been turned down a fair amount. I'm still getting a hold on things so this current tune could stay the same or go back up slightly in numbers For now, I'm not sure I'd use this particular tuner again for a Infiniti Q50/Q60. I'm thinking AMS would be the best bet because they know this platform inside and out. That point us a big deal. Downside they are the most expensive and harder to work with due to limited after sale support and a hurried tuning window. Why I picked the tuner here locally was that they were designated as master tuners per the Ecutek website for Infiniti and Nissan.
@@GettingthruLife this car have 333 lbs of torque to the wheels stock?
@@b58forever My car dyno'd 333.26 tq and 315.72 whp baseline with AMS intakes/ filters installed last week in December/first week in January.
@@GettingthruLife that's like 360 to the crank. Awesome..
@@b58forever Yep, comes out to approx 370hp at the motor before drivetrain loss with just AMS airboxes. These cars come out of the factory with 300 plus a little to the wheels. Redsport 400 about 375-380ish to the wheels.
Please comment below if you think the dyno numbers are low, average or great. Car feels dangerously fast where my summer 245 P-zero tires don't stand a chance. This could get dangerous fast. Apprehensive to take off traction control. Tuner commented that my heat exchanger was functioning really well. Burger Motorsports and not the cream of the crop AMS HX. Showed me a data log from a full pull mid way into the session and it was almost level across the laptop screen with an ever so slight slope increase. He commented on how rediculous a log looks from a turbo Q50 with oem heat exchanger. Looks almost like a vertical wall as temp climbs and timing is pulled. It was hard to hear the number to repeat them here because the fans were so loud. He thought I was using the AMS HX because of the datalog. Replied nope, $299 Burger Motorsports unit.
Getting thru life awesome video man. Love my q50s as well.
@Brandon Williams Turning off traction control is a must. Wider and softer tires is a must. Having to modulate the pedal sucks! Answer LSD and Nitto 05R's.
I just purchased a mishimoto heat hx but it’s a presale item to thinking about canceling the order and going with burger motor sports of it performs that well ... there’s no way I’m spending 800 for the ams ... thanks for posting this and elaborating on the tune
@@Mr.MarcM3366 The Mishimoto looks nice and I'm sure it will function very well. If I was sitting on more money or I just made more money then I would have likely gone the AMS or Mishimoto route just to clarify. I also would have paid a reputable shop to install it but that's just not my life. Will a Mishimoto or AMS heat exchanger function better than the Burger Motorsports, I don't have that definitive answer. What I can say is that the Burger Motorsports is working good for me. ((My advice is that when doing the installation, you modify the plastic ductwork slightly that you pull out so you can put it back in. [while sitting in front of the car] the one to your left/passenger side needs cutting or dremel tool work. Since the Burger Motorsports heat exchanger sits lower on the car compared to the AMS/Mishi, the rubber hoses route differently and that plastic shroud on the left is shaped to fit the hose and the OEM heat exchanger location.)) Not a massive deal to modify but can consume some extra time. -Most people, I assume from photos I've seen or video footage leave these out or discard. Purpose of the shroud pieces is to direct/tunnel that main airflow directly into the heat exchanger and radiator and not around them. Video of my BM HX install: ua-cam.com/video/o-xUaBa94lw/v-deo.html (Note: I sound/come off a little negative in the sense in the video where I need to look less at the negative aspects and more at the positives!:)
Getting thru Life I agree with you 100 Percent ! We all love to mod but modding with some sense usually pays off. I’m all about things being cost effective and for 800 bucks I can’t imagine the ams hx being that much better then the other companies and from what I see so far there is no definitive proof saying it is, mind you all my other mods are mostly ams so I do love their products . With that being said my tuner is installing my along with the stock hx so I’ll let you know how it performs . And listen you say negative , I say Informative ! ...too many guys always telling us the good side of a tune ...it’s nice to see someone give their actual experience after the tune because 9 times out of 10 we are going to go through the same thing ! Thank you for that ! Please keep us updated 💯
How is the car holding up now? I really want to get one used because of how cheap they are. I've heard that the turbos inevitably do go out eventually, especially when modifying it. What are your thoughts?
Mine is great but I don't put long hard miles on it. I change my oil often and most of the time I drive it pretty normally. Easy to get a used car that's not been loved and taken care of. A lot of these used car are/were leases which means people treat them even worse and long time between oil changes. Bad for the turbos and engine components plus people mess with the suspension and the electronics/wires fir the entertainment system. The 2016 through I think 2018 have the older turbos where the 2019 and newer VR30's get revised turbos and software. More reliable long term.. Also, I've heard of porous blocks affecring older cars which means with miles then those car's radiators start losing coolant mysteriously. If that issue in not under warranty then a new block would be very expensive. Yes on the 2016-2017 VR30 turbos with 40,000+ miles there's a good chance the turbos are getting close to their end. Not every turbo but a fair share. Yes, also turning up the boost from 9psi and 14.5 psi Redsport model to 18-19-20 psi does put more stress on parts but if the car is taken care of/not driven into the ground/modified properly verses improperly (downpioes no tune or long term blowoff valves no tune and driven hard for 20k miles) then it can run well for many years and be less of a headache.
Upside of unknown used 3.0t is cheaper but downside potential more expensive down the road in maintance that was never done and then parts being used up.
Down side of buying a good, certified pre-owned, taken care of and documented Q50-60 3.0t is more expensive but upside warranty, less headaches, less money that has to be put back into the car and more reliability.
If you can find a cheap 2016 and the motor checks out and you budget for new, after market turbos and then proper ECU tuning and proper fuel mods then you can get into a fast sleeper for under 30k and close to 600 hp.
Just got to buy the right car.
turbos are safe anything under 19 psi
If tuned right can be higher. All depends on the correct tuning. No blowoff valves needed. BOV was miss information and the attempt to worry people into thinking this Q50-60 car's turbos needed them and that the Infiniti motor designers were clueless.
wow is this tune only? no other mods? nice!
In this video it was a tune mostly but I did add the AMS intake kit the day before I had the car tuned in Dec 2019.
Awesome numbers wow! From those AMS intakes and heat exchanger!? I mean weather was perfect for those turbos so these gains seems great! Imagine just a lower downpipe with this aggressive tune the car might have too much power for just those two wheels lol good stuff man!👌👍
My tuner Jotech Motorsports says it's not super aggressive. They tune all their 3.0t motors the same and some with exhausts and downpipes are making a little more 455rwhp and 505-510 ft-lb torque. With 430 to 450 whp it does feel like a lot. As of now the tuned Q50 & Q60's definitely have to much power to put to the ground because of the choice Infiniti made to go with the open differential setup. It's literally a one wheel burnout until the car's ABS brakes attempt to take the one wheel spinning to the moon and then differentiate that 500+ ft-lb torque to the other side. My doubt is can the car's VDC even manage these elevated numbers. In my car I think I can say the answer is no. I can't believe more people with these tuned cars aren't discussing Limited slip differentials. Likely the cost and not just a simple bolt-on. I should make a video titled open diff/tuned & tire smoke. Not the car's fault. Even the AWD's have open rear diffs and rear wheel drive biased distribution so still pretty weak for 500 plus hp.
Other than that a very good, enjoyable and luxury like sedan. The Red Sport model of these cars definitely should have been equiped with a more suitable heat exchanger and the LSD rear-end option.
Do you have one of these cars or are you looking to get one in the future? Thanks for posting.
Getting thru Life hey! I am looking at this or a slightly used 2017 Audi A6 3.0 supercharged. I like the price point and what can be done with just an intake, downpipe and tune here. I still want something with room that I can haul the kids to school and have fun on my commute to school. I recently sold my 2010 Subaru Legacy GT (6speed) that was stage 1 with just a COBB 93 map tune which was amazing! I really miss that car but it only had about 280 horsepower and 300 torque to the wheels so this would be a big jump. But I agree with you people just aren’t talking about the traction mostly because they like to break it loose I guess until 3th or 4th year when it stops peeling. Do you still have the stock rubbers on the car? I hear those are pretty bad also....but either way I hope tuners one NJ can get this kind of power gains from a tune with and intake and maybe downpipe. I still want the car to be manageable to where if the kids want to sleep in the back they can without any drone or load noise
@@dannypersaud387 I went out and bought new tires immediately like within a few hundred miles. I made a short video on the things that need to be done immediately to this car and tires was one of them along with a quality oil catch can like the Mishimoto brand. I had a 2013 Ford Focus ST with the Cobb AccessPort tuner, a few 93 octane 30-40ish hp gain tunes, oil catch can, Steeda front mount intercooler, intercooler piping, Cobb air intake kit, shifter linkage bushing, a Boomba rear motor mount and forged aluminum wheels. That car was front-wheel drive and was always hindered by that drivetrain but was quick and fun. It was well under 300 hp to the wheels. This car (Q50) tweaked with just a tune is righteous! There is nowhere in Dallas to even open up this car during the day. If you do and get caught you're going to jail because it builds power and hits 120-130 extremely easy. This car with a tune and with these little twin turbos is a monster in the realm of in the city 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. It's not a dedicated top tier roll racer against the V8 competition unless it's off the line where it should put car lengths on the competition until the top gears and mph climbs into the tripple digits. In my book, a race is always from a start so traction + acceleration is king. It seems like a lot of people on youtube that I follow live in the Northeast and in and around NJ/New york. The Audi or the fast BMW's are very cool and fast cars too.
It’s already been done. 3hp+ gain
I guess you are pointing to the intakes. I disagree. My car baseline no tune with the intakes installed hit 315 whp. Many other stock 3.0t's slight below or close to 300whp Dyno. I was not expecting to like them as much but if I where to do this again with a new Q50, I would buy them again for 399( I bought them Black Friday sale). Q50's with $1000+ exhausts and $700 downpipes, many of them producing slightly less torque them my car did and 5 to 15 more hp. The added power from these intakes add to the power in the right range which is in the higher rpm of each gear. Take that for what it's worth.
Getting thru Life check out nostrum energy video.... they did a before and after
@@samtheman7043 I watch that video like 5 months ago. A good video. I like their videos. That result came from a bunch of different variables which were not good. Extreme heat, fans blowing hot air, maybe the on the spot tuning they did, 93 octane content or lack of 93, their setup of aftermarket fuel pumps for pump gas and I assume injectors because this car won't run e-85 with stock injectors and their car had been tuned previously on e-85. Don't buy the AMS intakes if you don't think they are worth it. It won't bother me. Anyways, thanks for posting your comment. I like to see people comment! I don't think the AMS intakes are $500 retail good but most definitely worth 299-399. We could have really learned something useful if they had data logged. Should be a part of a before and after comparison to look and analyze the data collected. I made a data logging video: ua-cam.com/video/vR6dTy1Lhac/v-deo.html
😂 "Johnny Tran" this isn't Fast and Furious. His name is Kenny 😜
Awesome video man
did you loose your warranty at infiniti after this ADDS to the engine ??
I have not lost my warranty. I've got a friend here in Dallas who has a 2018 RedSport and he has his car (tuned, lower downpipes/removed secondary catalytic converters, blowoff valves, Mishimoto heat exchanger, AMS low speed fuel pump) and the dealership here knows about all of it and still honors Infiniti warranty. Due to technical issues he's had his turbos replaced no charge and than few months later he had the dealership replace his whole motor and two turbos again, all under warranty.
From what I've seen, someone would have to intentionally make the biggest screwups and beg Infiniti to not warranty their car. At least this is protocol here in Dallas Texas.
I’m in N. Dallas/Plano to be exact. Which Infiniti Dealer are you referring to?
Is this the 300 or 400 hp engine. Im thinking a pure is the way to go if buying out right and just mod it from there. ?
Mine started out as the 300hp sport version 3.0t.
Get the 300 save the money for parts all the 3.0 are the same rs is just tuned
The benefit of getting a new red sport 400 is it's higher hp with a full warranty. You buy a 300hp 3.0t and tune it then you do risk warranty issues if you break/wear out parts related to the modifications you made while under warranty. Tuning the 300 hp 3.0t ecu typically can make 20-30 more hp alone then a stock Redsport. Most new 3.0t motors make 300whp stock. Most stock Redsports make low 380ish whp. Most Ecutek tuned 3.0t's make with just tuning 400-430whp depending on boost amount set in the tune.
@@GettingthruLife jb4. Warranty issue solved. Had my q60 rs warantied for turbos when I was jb4 tuned lol. Took down ov cars as well never ran an ecu tek tuned car while I had it.
Actually the red sport has a few more upgrades then the 300hp cars such as better intercooler bigger also has a speed controller for the turbos to pretty much stay spooled at all times so no delay... They add 3 or 4 more things to the red sport 4 cooling and efficiency I know that's what I have... The red sport is pretty much set up to take on upgrades And handle much more horsepower there's a few things in the engine they also do but I would have to look that up
Wow wasn't expecting those numbers!!!
These vR30 twin turbo cars have a big amount of room to grow with just a Ecutek tune. If infiniti would have spec'd a more suitable sized heat exchanger from the factory then that wouldn't need to be upgraded for tuning which can be a hassle and an added expense. With a reputable tune and a aftermarket free-flowing CBE can make 440rwhp and 500 tq. Add lower downpipes and make another 10hp.
@@GettingthruLife Agreed, wish they made them with a manual gearbox that would make me buy one ASAP.
Would be cool to have that option. Nissan will likely late 2021 release the new Z with a manual option with the Infiniti 3.0T.
@@GettingthruLife Yup I plan on getting one when it comes out.
i knew johnny tran faked his death at the end of F&F1....hes still alive and tuning q50's apparently
Yea I have poked fun at that similarity too. Kenny Tran the owner of Jotech Motorsports and of course he's of Asian decent. He's been a serious fast and the furious type contender modifying foreign cars since the late 70's early 1980's.
Just wondering, how much did you pay to get your car tuned? I was planning on tuning mine as well
To get a 3.0t tuned by one of the 5-6 reputable tuners it's likely going to cost between $1,450 and 1,640 for Ecutek license, bluetooth dongle, laptop key and custom tune. If you are going to do this locally at a shop then there might be extra for dyno tuning time $150-250.
Before tuning and modifying this car or the Q60 it is highly recommended that you invest in a aftermarket, larger and more robust heat exchanger. Heat exchanger upgrades sell between $250 for the basic and $700/800 for the premium option. Install charge for heat exchanger $300-400 typically. Hope this helps.
Hi, I have an Ecutek phone app question. Which widget to use on the "Dashboard" to accurately show the boost pressure your vehicle is running at at that moment? Which widget are you using?
To see the actual boost level minus atmospheric pressure for you elevation...you can log manifold pressure. Boost bank 1 & 2 measures boost plus atmospheric pressure together so higher number.
@@GettingthruLife Thanks!!!
I forgot jotech was down the street from me! Thank you for the info really bad ass! Liked and subscribed!
Yep, Jotech at 3513 Dividend Dr, Garland, TX 75042. I won't suggest they are the greatest Infiniti 3.0T VR30 tuner option but they are good folks and know a lot about and invest more time in making GTR's fast, Mclaren's, Supras, Honda's, Porsche and some Lamborghini's. I went with a new tuner last month so I could get some things worked out and feel a little better about how the cars is running.
Lol funny story man I started seeing your videos and man thank you for the feedback. I'm looking for hussein's race box lol! Thanks man! Let me know when you guys do your meets and I'll be out there man!
@@javi0387 you talking about the Richardson Q's facebook?
@@GettingthruLife yes sir I'll look for the page on fb didn't know you guys were on there
Thanks for the video bro
not for nothing but you were able to achieve 440hp with 500+lbs torque by just tuning is awesome!!! my question is are you overheating or burning oil faster and are you having any issues with the engine because of the tuning?
No, oil consumption is very little per a turned up turbo- charged engine. About normal or at least mine is. As for the added boost per tuning it does create a more heated Charge air temp and charge air coolant temp per WOT run so that is the reason to upgrade the heat exchanger which most likely needs to be done on these cars depending on climate. Comes more into play when running the car all out back to back...over and over. Realistically with a ecutek tune from the tuners can expect 415whp to 450whp is common with basic supporting mods. Mine was 433whp but most of the time I'm running the 410whp map and 475ish torque. When you turn the engine performance parameters up a fair amount you decrease longevity to a degree for parts like the factory turbos. Running them more conservatively and not wide open all the time helps to make them last longer. Afternarket turbos would typically more durable.
@@GettingthruLife i have to ask i am going to be getting a car here in dec. Would you recommend getting the 2013 g37 (rwd) or the 2017 q50 3.0t (awd)? Just like to get ideas because it's a daily but eventually i'll track it. (Looking at 2016 ecoboost also but i hear reliability is meh)
@@RangerxTurbo I do the 3.0t because so easy to add 110hp and 170+ torque. Just make sure you throughly check the 3.0t awd drive out too to bottom and underneath. Check oil color/level, pull out an air filter, check for maintenance records, look for modifications or signs of aftermarket mod install, check for wreck/damage history computer and visual inspection and make sure every bottom and dial works in the car unless specified broken by owner.
@@GettingthruLife yeah i always check spots and see if anythings wrong. I just dont know what would be worth
Yes all depends on prices and what can afford or feels like the best deal. 3.0t has more hp performance for money you have to spend. A tune and HX I was at or close to 500hp motor and 500 torque.
Beautiful car
Holy shit. 513WTQ from a tune only on 93 oct? That's nuts. Lol. With Exhaust, Intake and etc... You can be pushing way over 450WHP.
That was on the Jotech Motorsports dyno. All I had was their 93 tune, AMS intake kit along with a heat exchanger upgrade to better control the added heat. Now I have a full 2.5 cat back exhaust where the factory CBE is 1.75-1.50 o.d. in spots. Bottomline the car needs CATs because we live here in a new United States with a green new deal administration. I can safely say I went from 305-310 factory whp to between 440-450 who with tuning and CBE exhaust with high flow muffler. Sounds almost as quiet as the factory exhaust system but deeper. The 3.0t Infiniti/Nissan motor is the real deal for a mass produced motor that's not sold in a 70k-90k car, besides 5.0 Coyote engine or a Dodge 392.
@@GettingthruLife That's wild dude. This car is literally a performance bargain. Its like BMW M5 performance for Toyota Camry money (if Q bought used). Have you taken it to the track? What quarter miles are you trapping?
Hey. Awesome video man! If you could drop the list of how much everything costed you tune, heat exchanger , and everything else you have done. Are you looking to bring those number up any higher or are you satisfied?
I am pretty happy with where it is. I will be honest and say this 434 whp and 513 tq map worries me just a tad. Even though Jotech owner thinks I foolish for not fully trusting their tuning skills and the cars they have running around. The car is just angry and stupid fast. The open differential in this car is the kind of the Crux of this platform. Traction is a mind numbing joke when boost kicks in at low rpm 1st, second gear or even 3 gear at the proper rpm.
I am running everyday a detuned version because l don't feel like I'm killing the car as much. Between the 410whp and 434 whp map the car is much more predictable and livable though the higher performance map will get used at the proper time.
My Heat Exchanger is the Burger Motorsports $299 version..$50 dollar 2 bottles of Nissan HE fluid though 1 jug is enough if you try to save fluid. $65 for the airvac tool to vaccum fill/ suck out the air of he system.
2. Jotech Motorsports tune Ectuek ...$980 tune, dyno tuning session and after sale support
3. AMS Red Alpha Intakes...I like them...I bought kit on sale 399.00
Mishimoto oil catch can $230 plus l put it on the car close to new with 400 miles on the odometer. My car baseline dyno'd 315whp stock which is strong. I attribute that to the motors health and it's effeciency due to clean intake valves.
93 Octane fuel and stock exhaust which includes stock downpipes.
Next mod if I fall into some money to burn will be a limited slip differential about 2k installed. That rear end will make this car a rocket because then can put down that sick low-end torque likely full power. No back pedaling or roll on the throttle slowly. Tire spin with 513 torque is unmanageable.
Getting thru Life I appreciate your time responding to me. I went ahead and orderd the stage 3 kit. ECUTek tune heat exchanger coolant expansion tank, downpipes, and intakes. Also have an mbrp catback exhaust. I have the AWD version. Very excited to see how it holds up with the aggressive tune. I have a good set of tires as well. So I’ll keep you posted on the build. I should be done with everything Monday!
@@laxincg Very nice. Your car will be an animal. I like your exhaust choice. I remember that name from my Ford ST days and I will consider them to if I every decide to make my car louder. Going with the AMS package will have you all set up with plug and play. Just find a good/reputable place to install heat exchanger, supporting mods and exhaust pieces. Yes stay in touch.
Just got a q50 3.0t trying to push some real numbers any recommendations? It would help
Yes, first upgrade the heat exchanger. I went PLM brand because a close copy of the AMS heat exchanger and a couple $100 cheaper. Mishimoto makes a very good heat exchanger but a little more than PLM. Next is the Ecutek tune from a tuner you trust and like. I"m tuned by Racebox but there are 5-6 other good tuners as well including AMS Performance but likely most expensive. Next is a cat-back-exhaust 2.5 or 3". Then if you get properly tuned for it then you can get full/lower downpipes. Only do this with the tune made to run the downpipes by a proper tuner. The next mod that people are seeing big gains, 600hp+ with a proper ethanol tune which means you need new, higher flow injectors. You will also need a low pressure fuel pump plus a new upgraded high pressure fuel pump. Not a bad idea to get the AMS ethanol fuel filter to be safe so less problems with clogged injectors. The most expensive part is the ethanol mod portion if done right, Approx $3,000. To reach 500 at the motor hp what you need is heat exchanger $460, Ecutek tune 1,200-1,400, and a Cat-back exhaust because the factory CBE is 1.75" in a few spots and needs to be 2.5" all throughout. CBE range 1,250 - 1,450. Bottom line, what minimum you can get away with is heat exchanger upgrade and Ecutek VR30, 93-92 octane fuel tune. Skip blowoff valves all together and lower downpipes unless you get tuned for them plus you need the CBE upgrade to increase exhaust flow.
Increase from factory 300whp car to 430-440 whp with 93Ecutek octane tune and 490-500 torque +..
I'm thinking of buying a q50 in a year or 2 and I was wondering, do you know how much hp and torque the 7 speed auto can handle stock?
It's pretty well known now that this trans can handle up to 700 hp and give or take 700+ ft of torque. Above that then its recommended to start thinking about upgrading to a reinforced trans and torque converter. Also, driveshaft and axles would be a good idea too.
I want to get tuned by racebox but im new to the tuning world lol i have no idea where to even start or what tune i would need
I hear ya. When I stated in this 3 years ago there was even less info out so I was super clueless. You just need to call his shop and talk to one of his employees where they will talk you through the process. A remote tune is a very good way to get tuned where they will tell you the steps to get your tune dialed in for your exact car and conditions. When I got tuned it was limited, now there is a lot more choices and price points. (832) 786-9038 they will send you the Ecutek dongle that plugs into your car's OBD II port reader (to the left, under your steering wheel. They will give you the option to load the tune and the revisions either through a laptop PC or now your cell phone with Bluetooth. Thanks for posting and hope I was somewhat helpful. If you don't live in Houston Texas area, cant drive there, they will mail you the things you need to start the tuning process.
It’s been a year since this video was uploaded, how’s the reliability? I’m debating on trading in my G37 for a q50
Three months after this Jotech 93 tune, I turned around and sought Hussain Boxwala's tuning expertise. My car runs great and hasn't missed a beat. Important to note: Buying a used car that was tuned with 30kplus thousand miles or they ran their JB4 with very little knowledge of how to set it up properly in the custom setting or they bought into the misinformation online and purchased full catless/lower downpipes in addition to free flowing cat-back exhaust without being tuned for them, then these car's turbos go out either for that owner or the new owner. That's how these VR30/3.0T's have gotten a bad wrap. People that buy these cars don't seem to take care of them because lease or they don't plan on keep them after a few years. 1. Got to find a Q50-60 that was taken care of and tuned right. Next got to have a car that has had it's oil changed 4-6K miles depending on abuse/driving conditions. I change my oil approx 3.5K to 4.5K while beating on it from time to time. Run 0w-20 synthetic oil in the winter and 5W-30 in the summer. Tune the turbos to see about 18 to 19 psi mid rpm and taper down towards 6-6,500 rpm. As long as you don't drive it into the ground these 120 plus hp gains should be manageable for years for driving enjoyment. The factory cheap turbos while tuned may not last as long as non tuned turbos just because while being tuned from 10 psi/14.5 psi up to 18-19psi creates more wear and tear. Hope this helps. I love my car and it's as awesome as the day I got it July 2019, better because close to 500hp motor and 500+ tq. Shreds tires...even 19" drag radial and Toyo R888R 285x19".
Nice! What price range would you be looking at for a tune? Would you recommend them to other q50/q60 owners?
Depending on where you go (the tuner/shop) and if you do the tuning in person or remotely and then if you purchase the Ecutek Bluetooth OBD II module or the laptop cable version. With all that said likely $900 to $1600. Check out the Ecutek website and search for tuners in your area.
@@GettingthruLife I'm just north of you in the OKC metro area. I thought about going with AMS but I wanted to hear your experience and cost with them. I recently purchased a red sport so I'm still deciding what route to take.
@@nis_bro Well my scenerio, I've been a Jotech fan for years. I've driven past their area for years and years and they always have/had a parking lot full of extreme GTRs and these day plenty of exotic super cars pumping out 1000 plus hp. I went online to the Ecutek website and looked for a Infiniti tuner. Jotech was listed as a master tuner there. AMS charges 1599-1699 for their tuning services and you would need to do it remotely if you don't plan on going to Chicago with your car. I like AMS but you are going to pay a premium for their services. Jotech here if you go with them will install the Ecutek license and then dyno tune your car so that it's tuned precisely to your car. I'm happy with Jotech Motorsports. This is likely your choice to have your car tuned in person on one of their dynos. $980 was the price for their services which I paid for their dyno tuning session. They are not a big proponent of the need to buy the Ecutek Bluetooth dongle/ laptop cable because they tune your car in the spot. No need to datalog back and forth thru email with a far away tuner. They sell the Ecutek dongle if someone really wants one but it adds $300 and is not a necessity.
You would just need to set up an appointment with them and then bring your car into Dallas. 2.5-3hrs away from Oklahoma City. If your car is completely stock then you will likely get the same tune I have and others that are running around Dallas/Ft Worth area.
Stock Red sports are putting down I think 380 ish whp and under 400 torque. You can expect to get 430-440 whp (500 motor) and over 500 torque. 450 - 460 with a AMS downpipe. They are a vendor and work with AMS plus have AMS parts in their shop.
@@nis_bro I went back this morning to get the map switching activated with the full boost map and the lower boost map 434 vs 410 whp. Also, got Seth to configure my launch control through the Ecuteck software & the cruise control button. Both of the changes are working very well. Surprised how good the launch control manages to apply power now in 1st gear. Going to be awesome to use it!
@@nis_bro check out facebook.com/BTunedPerformance/ they have some great options. and also price is amazing. so many people are tuned from them.
how did you put the digital speedometer on your car
I'm assuming you are talking about on my dash in the center display. It has that option on mine, 2019, to display the speed by cycling thru display options on steering wheel.
Isn't that too much torque for axles and other things, I'd think 430ish TQ is safe for daily drivers.
There are plenty of folks running 500 hp plus to the wheels and near 600 lb-ft of torque. Just depends on how you drive it and where you are driving it. Above that, upgrade for grippy track use.
Enjoyed watching your video. I live in Florida so summer tires work for me (like Texas). What tires are you running now? Do you have a favorite tire? I have a 2019 Q50S (not red sport). I’m looking to improve tires and suspension first. Maybe add horsepower later.
I really like my 245x40R19 Pirelli P-Zero Nero summer tires (280 treadwear) for everyday and travel. The Toyo R888R 285/35R19 rears gave me my best acceleration performance times on the street with no rollout 3.8 sec 0-60mph, 1.8 60 foot. My Firestone Indy 500 tires I tried were an embarrassment as far as quick times. I had also tried the brand new at the time Nitto NT555R II for rear tire 275x19R40 and they were good but not as good as the R888R tire. In the sense, all the tires I have tried have been a let down as I still spin with ease even the 285 Toyo R888R's. If I had the opportunity to buy a new set of rears for pure traction It would be either the Mickey Thompson ET Street R (275/40R17) or more likely their ET Street Radial Pro (245/60R15). Both the M.T. tire choices would require me to purchase new rear wheels which is a downer. The M.T. are not daily driver tire choices as they don't like rain and will wear out quickly as a main driving tire.
Subbed you one handsome snack
Is this stock the red sport 400 or the 300 hp ome
It started out as the 300hp model.
I love my car. Need to get mine tuned as well, and a HE. Massive Hp from stock. I for sure want to bump that up to 400 wheel though. What did you turn it down to?
I don't have the latest dyno chart numbers as last visit to Jotech to adjust tune I ended up forgetting. Now that this virus crap is in full effect everything is disrupted. Most everything is going to be in a holding pattern for months moving forward. I'd assume I'm around 450-460 torque and likely 410 rwhp. Now that I've done this tuning thing and have more experience with this platform I'd say I'd rather be on the safe side because my car is so new and it's my only car. I love and enjoy my '19 Q50S where I would hate to prematurely damage it/wear out the turbos or cause damage to trans. Aftermarket downpipes and removing cats will/can likely damage stock turbos over time 10-20k miles JFYI. A modded turbo setup can then handle aftermarket dp's, removed cats and 2.75-3" full exhaust for big power. Hope this helps answer your question. Let me know if you have more questions 😊
Getting thru Life the lock down sucks! My 18 Q50S is also my only car. I haven’t heard anyone say the lower down pipes would be bad for your turbos. Would a blow off valve counter act the wear you are talking about? If I keep the car then I will end up putting bigger turbos on it for a 500-600 whp car like the 9 second Q60 AMS has.
@@Aspen910 Well hopefully it won't be a problem. The oem turbos just aren't very durable in some aspects from what I've seen and read. Opening up the downpipes and freeing up the exhaust allows them to spool up quicker and spin faster thereby creating more stress and wear. Different higher caliber turbos would/will handle the stuff were talking about but that can lead to warranty failure on cheaper oem setup. Just something to be aware of. Oil leaks in the front and oil/smoke in the exhaust would be signs. Only reason why I'm not jumping on the do bandwagon with a newish car. Also if no cats or just 2cat choice that will be an automatic/no questions ask warranty voider for most of the engine at most dealerships. Plus I hear hit or miss with check engine warning light.
Reason why I'm keeping all my cats, stick dp's and similar setup to the stock exhaust format but making it all CBE 2.5" with a properly constructed and positioned x-pipe.
If I can get myself to hang on to this car long enough then one day I would like to think that I'd be willing to upgrade the turbos, fuel system and make 600-700whp.
You're in Garland??
On the border Dallas and Garland
Do you recommend that heat exchanger?
If getting your Q50 turned up with more power then I do recommend a upgraded heat exchanger. The stock/oem unit does a poor job maintaining the proper compressed air temps the car needs to sustain making power. Not efficient. One of the downsides to tuning a car's motor is now it's going to produce even more heat by providing the extra combustion. In short, the car will become "heat soaked" after just a small amount of use. Once the car get See's the elevated compressed air intake temps and then the intercoolers can't remove that heat then the car's ecu is going to remove/pull power to protect it's health.
In the summer months and even spring time it will or can become an issue. Sucks that a person needs to spend this extra time and money since the car should have been equiped with one that works but it is what it is. Almost all the off the showroom floor turbo cars with air to air intercoolers need them replaced too because they don't function well enough.
But the burger heat exchanger is doing it’s job?
@@AtoMiCxMODs Yes, the BM heat exchanger is working well. I suggest if you or whoever installs it that you put back the left and right plastic duct work that directs the airflow onto the heat exchanger and radiator. Seem many people leave out this step because it's more of a hassle. The passanger side piece needs some cutting/grinder/Dremel work to make it fit properly. Just like many installs with more of a custom installation. Also, need to make sure that the heat exchanger system is filled up completely with no air pockets remaining or you could run into problems. I cover this in my Burger Motorsports install video on UA-cam.
Nice vid… Do you know how much power the ams intakes actually pick up?
0n my car before it was tuned, baseline, with the AMS intakes, the car made 315 whp. A strong, healthy non-Red Sport 3.0t will make 295 to 300 whp typically.
So in my estimation and from the dyno results from AMS, their intakes can add up to 15 peek whp at the upper rpm. This is good for the Infiniti 3.0t motor with the tiny twin turbos because they fall flat, run out of juice like 5.7k rpm. Modified factory turbos are a different story.
Also, Z1 motorsports makes their own infiniti/nissan airbox kit which is modeled directly after the AMS intake/filters/couplers.
Best time to buy AMS is when they are on sale for $375-399.
@@GettingthruLife I’ve heard the intakes don’t do much but change the sound of the turbos, but 15 whp isnt bad… Def have to add that to my list!
@@cowboycarter956 most cars intakes don't add much if any but more advantage with turbo cars to fine tune intake track and get smooth air into the turbo/s. Read the Z1 Motorsports intro to their new airboxs for the 3.0t Infiniti motor
www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-cold-air-intake-system-p-24740.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA6NOPBhCPARIsAHAy2zAiDG8P0adRQamexFUzXqQkDkWF4GV0lt62dIuFn8u-SWptSqIHk6oaAqRYEALw_wcB
Is this the red sport or just sport?
It was the 300 hp model. It dyno'd there at Jotech baseline no tune and just AMS intakes at just short of 316 whp and 333 tq.
@@GettingthruLife thats amazing amount of power for intakes no tune I'm glad I bought this baby gtr 😍😈😏
I have a 19 redsport and I want a tune but I want to keep all my cats over time will it mess up my car in anyway
I have all 4 of my CATs on my where I didn't and still don't like the idea of taking them off or just removing the lower 2. They are a big issue mostly at the dealerships if removed. Removed CATs is easy to spot, a tune is not just visually seen through a casual inspection. This motor runs fine with it's CATs and the tuning process is not affected otherwise. Lower dp's are probably good for another 10 maybe on a good day 12whp from many dyno sheets I've seen.
@@GettingthruLife did yours pop at all after the tune?
Where did you get this done at?
My first tuning session was with Jotech Motorsports as seen here in this video. I went with them because they were local, had a dyno and had been a premium tuner for Nissan GTR cars.
Come to find out that in the opinion of many and what would become my opinion over time was/is that they had such little experience with the platform, knowing the ins and outs of this Infiniti VR30 3.0t motor/ecu.
After my tuning at Jotech, I encountered problem after problem were the car was not performing right. After many attempts to fine tune the car at Jotech, I came to my senses and recognised that I needed to go with a new tuner.
I walked away from that tune/money...$1000 and spent another $570 for a remote tune (email process with datalogging and revisions) with a tuner who had more time tuning this motor package and it's ecu/ecm.
I still believe Jotech is a good company, but in my opinion from my observation and experience, they put forth more of their attention towards the vehicles that draw in more money, example Lamborghini, Mclaren, $10k-30k GTR builds, Porsche and some others.
Long story short, I feel much better about the tune I have now we're the car runs better in my opinion, is safer so less problems and I would bet makes similar power 500 crank hp and 495-500 torque.
How much psi were you pushing on the run where the car made 433whp?
Likely 20-21 psi but what people don't get is that peak 20-21 is so brief in time, like a 20th of a second and then tapers off quickly as rpm's climb in the gear. Near 17-18 or lower at 6,400 to 6,800 rpm. Then next gear comes in and it's not as high boost as 1 and 2nd gear with torque dropping with these small turbos.Just like setting up a JB4 with different maps and tapering off the boost as many do or should be doing. Boost spike during gear shift are mili-seconds long where waste gates electronically open up to relieve 24-25psi moments plus throttle body with the auto trans doesn't full close shut to cap of boost. I can track it all in great detail on datalogs so it's accurate info based off cars computer. Good tuners with years of experience know what they are doing as long as air fuel good and running slightly rich under WOT throttle and engine knock is being controlled safely..
A lot if people don't datalog because they can't make sense of the numbers and how to view them. Depending on the number of parameters being logged, one minute if logging can record 500-700 numbers in a chart like format. Tough to look at but Datazap online displays it easily where it's much easier to see and read.
People can wear out their engine and turbos more buy not changing their oil when it get dirty/broken down, shutting you car off quickly while it's running hot, pushing your car while it's hot and running the fluids low.
What’s the reason the car was smoking?
@@notfuzzy3064 Cool outside at that time.
I care
How much do tunes like this cost ?
You are going to want to check. Things have changed a lot since I git tuned. There are more options these days and various degrees of tuning. I'd look up Racebox, AMS, Z1 Motorsports, or Sonic tuned.
Racebox has a sale going till the end of this month free e30 tune for 1,469 for remote tunning
Good idea to upgrade to higher flowing LPFP for e30 fuel.
@@alhandle07 bro whhhuuut 1500 for a tune damn bro
@@keithrichards5688or the performance gains I’d say it’s worth it. With 3-4k in mods you’re keeping up with 40-50 hell even 60 thousand dollar cars when you can pick up a q50 3.0 for as little as 18k
Why is Americas octane level so low?
Oh man I wish it was higher that's for sure...like 95 at least. I'm just not ready to drop 3,000 dollars to run E50-60-80. My car is so fast already that I can't nail the pedal at anything under 40 mph and that's with 285 width R888R Toyo tires. 245 summer soft tires and it pointless to even get into boost.
its not, you dont understand the difference in octane measurement, thats all.
most countries use RON to rate fuel while America and a few others use (R+M)/2. its an average of RON and MON ratings. RON only doesn't take the fuel's sensitivity into account, (R+M)/2 does, it's a more reliable rating.
90 RON = 86.5 (R+M)/2
95 RON = 91.0 (R+M)/2
98 RON = 94.0 (R+M)/2
its roughly equivalent.
Roundabout figure, how much does it cost to get the HP you have on pump 93
So why is he saying you couldn’t tune it. Too much lean on air /fuel mixture
I first had this car tuned locally. Then, not being 100% happy out on the road with the results, I then did a remote car tune over the internet/email with a new tunerl. I don't recommend just tuning while running on a dyno because a number of things are not encountered the same when running just on a dyno. Recording data logs while testing is key for the better results.
Hey I was wondering can I take my bone stock q50s to get tune? Like can I hit 400hp safe?
A bone stock 3.0t Redsport from the factory makes very close to 385-390 whp and its just comes down to different ecu tuning. The redsport does have upgraded hx cooling by mean of a extra pump.plus a oil cooler just to point out.
@@GettingthruLife i don't have a red sport just sport lol
How is your gas mileage with this setup. Love the car👍🏼
If you want to baby it, it will go 34mpg hwy. Casual driving around town 23-24. If someone were aggressive everywhere they went 18-19mpg.
Getting thru Life Wow that’s actually way better then I was thinking
Does your car smoke alot with the full downpipes?
I am not running aftermarket downpipes. I have kept the car's full oem downpipes and all 4 cats. I will be upgrading the CBE (cat-back exhaust) next week when it comes in the mail. My thinking is yes the oem downpipes are a constricted point and then added constriction with cats but that is a short distance, at the beginning point of the exhaust flow. The CBE I chose is the full 2.5" from cats back to the tips. This will greatly aid in helping the car to not struggle as much to push the exhaust out to then pull in more air and start the process over again. Plus the Maganaflow 15310 cbe has the perfect looking/placed/constructed x-pipe that functions to help suck out/flow the exhaust gasses out (scavenging), big big plus of a good x-pipe design. Not going to be big gain in hp but will likely see/feel benefits because stock exhaust is so small and crazy pencil thin.
Pablo Lopez mine has its moments when it’s smokes I’ve got catless Megan racing downpipes and custom Y-pipe straight piped the rest of the way.
@@BeastedCustoms I don't know...that could be a concern or no concern at all. Oil burning if not a super high mileage motor could be the turbo/s starting to leak oil. I'm not a professional mechanic that works on turbo cars so I'm no authority on the matter. Just from my investigation on this car in the early days before I got mine I read OEM turbos can have longevity issues with aftermarket downpipes and no cats or partial cats. I don't have the confirmed research at my fingertips but enough concern for me to not get them at least till I need new turbos that can handle wide open dps and exhaust like AMS big turbo kit.
Getting thru Life I was concerned at first then I started reading on forums a lot and I guess it’s common as long as it’s evaporating smoke and not staying on the air, I’m sitting at 74k miles so who knows if my turbos go I think I’m going to go to a pure turbo setup.
Getting thru Life You can buy used 2016 Q50 OEM lower cats and just remove the catalytic core and have an OEM free flowing LDP. I might do do later on my car. Currently, I have a resonated HKS ldp, but it’s going to be a PITA to replace it back to stock if I need to bring it for any engine or turbo issues in the future. It’s also not guaranteed how Mod friendly some dealers are when they see an aftermarket LDP.
Right now I also have a frozen boost 118 heat exchanger. I’m leasing the car and will buy a slightly used 2019 Sports as replacement and put all my mods to the new car. So next time I’ll just use an OEM LDP (hollowed) and an Infiniti Heat exchanger and intake too keep the stock like dealership friendly look.
That ecutek tune is amazing 🔥 where is this at? What made you change your tune from ecutek to race box?
Reason why I switched my tune from Jotech Motorsports was the car was constantly throwing DCT codes. One time a PCM over boost and the likely over 100 TCM codes related to transmission errors and torque converter errors. Was happening over time period of many months with little explanation and not solutions.
Also too, other things happened which were questionable and just helped me to feel less sure/happy with the tuning process their.
I switched over to Hussain and the car just ran better, smoother, stopped throwing all codes, and also boost wasn't crank up as high. Jotech tune was seeing peak boost 22-23 psi and likely 24 psi during shifts even though the shop manager told me these VR30's need to stay around 18- 18.5 psi for reliability and less heat per their turbo efficiency zone.
Plus Hussain Boxwala and some of the other more popular tuners have their own personal Q50-60 cars and tune on their own cars so more time and experience with this specific platform which means a lot.
@@GettingthruLife does he use ecutek aswell?
Yes he does, Ecutek is the primary tuning solution for the Q50-60 car.
Anybody know where to have my ecutek install and dyno in Las Vegas? I called everywhere
You can do a remote tune and live anywhere which in all reality I feel is better because you'ure actually tuning from real world driving data with natural airflow and moving/rolling. The dyno is just a tool that's useful for tuning when you can establish a baseline and then as you tune or add parts you can see the gains. A useful tool but needs to be ran really on the same dyno with no changes to the dyno Everytime to compare equal data. Even then things will flucuate due to the weather and month. The dyno will also establish a number hp/tq so you can share. In my opinion I'd choose a AMS or Racebox remote tune and call it done. These two have tuned so many cars that they can get you in the ball park with just their base tune. Call them to find out more details.
Hey bro , do you have Facebook ? I want to ask you few things if you don’t mind.
yes, my name is Bryan Thornhill.
Getting thru Life I couldn’t find you on Facebook maybe you can add me ? facebook.com/frankie.liu3
@@frankieliu6982 I added you sir.
What numbers did u get?
With that Jotech Motorsports tune 93 octane (AMS airbox kit and Burger Motorsports intercoller) stocks catalytic converters and factory CBE = 434 rwhp and 513 max torque.
If tuned (only safe/proper way to to do so) full lower catted downpipes with a proper 2.5 CBE = 457 - 463 rwhp.
@@GettingthruLife u need a catback for a 93 tune?
@@alanmusa7143 no you do not but the factory cutback exhaust is tiny diameter.and in a section is only one pipe about 1.9-2.0 in diameter. A good/well designed after market cbe will have two-2.5" pipes or 3" pipes. These will flow more air/exhaust out and allow more air/intake to be consumed. Tuning along with just a legit cbe will add the most hp/ little less torgue peak numbers. A ecutek tune, cbe and Z1/AMS airbox kit is a great start along with needing to upgrade the tiny Infiniti intercooler/heat exchanger $450-525.00.
@@GettingthruLife thank u so much! I did hear tho that a intake on these Qs is useless and sometimes bad for the car
Mind helping me with my build I stay on the pleasant grove area
what you got going on? My work schedule is random and I get scheduled out of the blue where I travel around dallas, in the state and out of state. Hard to say when I have time but I'm not opposed to helping a fellow 3.0T enthusiast if I'm just sitting around. Just depends on what your installing and time.
@@GettingthruLife well right now since I got my car almost new I'm worried about my warranty since I still have some but I was thinking using jb4 and carback exhaust for the meantime.
I'm not a big fan of the JB4 but if you don't overdo the increase/cranking up of the boost they can provide added hp cheaper. Professional tuning is the best and safest way to turn up boost. When you add boost, you change the demand for a lot of things. Better and safer in the long run to calibrated the ecu/ecm but more expensive due to the level of precision and personalization. Catback exhaust is an option that can be added with no worry but tuning the car for each modification adds some benefits. Good tires are the baseline for everything else. Not as exciting as increased boost and sound but more grip, more comfort, sometimes less noise and better cornering feel adds to the overall car experience.
@@GettingthruLife nicee I remember whenever u took it to a dealer they did not bother you with voiding your warranty?
I got mines from sewell infiniti on lemmon so idk about them.
I have little worry about my cars warranty. My car drives as good or better then the day I brought it home. If there comes a day that my tiny, baby turbos wear out...I'll have little prob upgrading to two bigger and more efficient turbos and a new tune.
Kevin!!!!
For the love of God please remove the pin stripes 😳 it takes away from the natural lines of the car. Back in the day they did stripes because Japanese cars didn't have sharp lines
Yes I hear what your thinking. I happen to like them and these are painted on. Everyone is free to their opinions. Just try your best to overlook.
that isnt a Q50s im an infiniti salesman you have no paddle shifters and no "sport plus" mode that is just a normal q50 luxe
So the badging that came on the back of my car's trunk showing Q50S from the dealership was wrong? I refer to it in my videos as what it is as identified as by this badging. I have never told or written anywhere on youtube that it's "the sport" model. In my intro to my videos with the badging, that is a physical picture of my rear car model emblem. You don't seem to be fully up on your product info or at least on the '19 cars. This edition, my car has the sport interior and body work plus some other cool/helpful features like 360 parking camera and the 19" wheels. What it does not have are the paddle shifters which I've discussed in various videos, no nav, no electronic suspension, and minus the bigger brakes and the +sport settings even though I'm tuned well beyond sport plus. So in fact, I am correct to refer to it as a Q50S Signature Edition. Hope that helps clarify things for you.
Also, if I'm not mistaken the Red Sport model are the ones that have the additional sport + mode but since I don't have these cars I'm not guaranteeing that 100%.
@@GettingthruLife yes your right the red sport is the one with the paddle shifters. im not sure how he is an infiniti salesman
@@m.a.4446 Both the sport and the Red Sport have the paddle shifters but I was sort of sure that that the RedSport was the one that had the sport plus mode for shift/suspension/steering setting.
Getting thru Life I’m not saying your wrong, but I have a q50s and it has the paddles and sport plus. It’s not the red sport. Also great video I’m looking to get a tune at jotech in the near future I live in Allen.