Sign up for UA-cam Premium with my link to get 2 months free ua-cam.com/users/premium?cc=731woodworks& Click "Read more" to see all of the tool links. Watch Next: 99% of Beginners Don't Know These Woodworking Tips and Tricks - ua-cam.com/video/jXzS-76tz5M/v-deo.htmlsi=Pk1ec4_CxATrMWSd Tools in this Video: Swanson Speed Square - amzn.to/3Yo0gMs Swanson Speed Square (7 and 12 inch combo pack) - amzn.to/3UtkEL1 Framing Square Fence - lddy.no/1kpsm Framing Square - amzn.to/48sm7qT Circular Saw - amzn.to/3NQjJQV Diablo Circular Saw Blade - amzn.to/4emj84F Stanley 48-inch I-Beam Level - amzn.to/40q3MbM Craftsman 48-inch I-Beam Level - amzn.to/4eTkCEp Dovetail Router Bit - amzn.to/4hDe3Yz Dovetail Clamps 2-Pack - amzn.to/4hA576a BOW Featherboard - amzn.to/4hmrM5H Swanson Straight Edge - amzn.to/4ebVgQN Kreg Rip Cut (Amazon) amzn.to/3YjAYPA Kreg Rip Cut (Lowe's) creatoriq.cc/4hlP7o9 Milescraft Track Saw Guide - amzn.to/3YKH9N1 Milescraft Portable Drill Guide - amzn.to/3YJXPp3 RZ Mask M2 - amzn.to/3NGXuNx Craftsman Shop Vac - amzn.to/4hlXujB DeWALT StealthSonic Shop Vacs - creatoriq.cc/3Usy5e1 Dust Right Separator - amzn.to/3C3Fp9O Mullet Dust Separator - amzn.to/3YGl0QX Festool MFT Work Bench - amzn.to/3C2S64J Festool Clamps for Workbench - amzn.to/4fmZciH Kreg Router Template - amzn.to/3UtK634 Alumnium Router Templates - amzn.to/3Yo2jjC Router Bit Set I Recommed - amzn.to/3YGfMVc Router Templates - craftedelements.com/collections/router-templates Beginner Woodworking Project Plan Bundle - www.731woodworks.com/store/p/ultimate-beginner-woodworker-plan-bundle use code BEGIN to save 20% off this bundle. Hardwood Charcuterie Kits FREE SHIPPING www.ollogginsawmill.com/collections/wood-kits Best Budget Power Tool Options I Recommend: SKIL Miter Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3Aq7OGs SKIL Miter Saw (Lowe's) creatoriq.cc/4f3zYWQ SKIL Table Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3NJ7EwZ SKIL Table Saw (Lowe's) - creatoriq.cc/3A7OrC9 Kobalt Table Saw - creatoriq.cc/3YwOmAa Kreg Track Saw - amzn.to/4eYG9LS WEN Drill Press - amzn.to/4fjTApu Hercules Dust Extractor - SKIL Router and Router Table Combo - amzn.to/3YjCz82 Hardwood Board Kits - www.ollogginsawmill.com/collections/wood-kits Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Join the TUBAFOUR NATION to get exclusive access to member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks See the full list of tools and supplies I recommend on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
I love your transparency in humility. When you first started your hobby I believe the limited resources not only shaped your character but built your endurance. Huge encouragment to us! So little background, I'm just starting my wood working hobby and praying it opens up doors to support my family financially. It's a little scary not having everything I need but I believe the lord will provide. This desire to build isnt going away so im pushing forward. Thank you again for being such a huge blessing ❤
I ruined a lot of projects (or attempted projects) before I acquired 1 thing...and you can't buy it. Patience. With patience comes skill. With skill comes confidence. After confidence, I sold enough projects to buy a compound sliding miter saw...and a table saw. Thanks for the tips!
I like this video. Even though I’m not a novice and have a good set of (power) tools what I don’t have is space in my garage for e.g. a cabinet table saw, jointer or planer. You show good, solid alternatives. Much appreciated.
This was a good video. I've been using plug-in portable power tools since about 1968. And my first use of big power tools like a table saw, bandsaw and etc was 1974. My most used tools that don't use any power are, #1 the Swanson speed square. That brand is made of metal and almost indestructible. You can drop it, kick it and all kinds of abuse and because of how it's made it doesn't get out of square. Like he showed it is really great for crosscutting 1x and 2x. #2 24 inch steel framing square. Steel because of the durability. And 24" because it's just so useful. #3 is up to you but you need a good writing pencil. The thinner lead the better but the trade-off is how easy the lead breaks. Myself, I buy a big bag of the plastic 0.7 mechanical pencils that are on sale really cheap during back to school sales. I got 50 for just under $7 and each one has 3 sets of extra lead in them. Added bonus is they are bright colors which makes them a tad bit easier to find when they are laying around. I just throw them away when they run out. And here's my bonus tip. When you first start out and you make things that are either a gift or sale to a friend or family member don't point out your mistakes. Believe me, they usually don't notice them until you show them. Don't say things like "does this uneven seem bother you much?", or stuff like that. They don't notice it. Have fun and don't worry about making mistakes. That's how we learn.
The bonus tip is gold. As a perfectionist, a lot of the mistakes bother me but other people either don't notice them or just don't care. I need to put this tip to practice. Thanks for sharing!!
Great Information: 35 years ago, when was first starting out I won the top award at the Southern California Design In Wood Show and all I had was a Craftsman 10" flex drive table saw - a cheapo Black & Decker router - a hand drill - and a bunch of clamps including some bar clamps.
Well informative video. Many people started the the same way. Milescraft really outdid themselves with their track guide. It turns a $30 circ saw into a $700 Dewalt or Festool tracksaw. It is also more modern and better engineered than their earlier tools. Kregs current track saw is only $300 and very good. I dont have a need for a track saw since I have a table saw and use a circ saw and straight edge to make 8ft rip cuts. The Kreg router radius guides are much cheaper and safer to use than the Woodpeckers set I bought way back. I do have the Milescraft drill press ($20) and their router compass ($40). The M2k router ($130) guide kept popping off my router so I had to return it. I also have a Skil bench drill press ($130) I use to make mortises. This is cheaper than buying a mortiser. I buy cheap and expensive tools simply because I am a hobbist and do not need much help or see much improvement with high level options. I didn't know they had edge guides for framing squares. I just square the framing square to the table and clamp it.
Great video. Here are a couple of variations that may help also, 1: when using a speed square with a circular saw, I like to put the square on the far edge of the board (the edge I'm cutting toward) for longer cuts to prevent sideways movement after running off the end. 2: I do a similar thing as the level tick to joint boards on a table saw. The only difference is I use Unistrut/Superstrut so I can screw it in from the side and not have to worry about it shifting. You do have to add shims between the wood and the Superstrut if it's an actual live edge.
I actually tried the level trick and found it to work ok, but even better I bought a no 4 hand plane (Ace had a basic Stanley for only $30) and now I'm addicted to using that for jointing. I got my table saw second hand and the fence isn't very good, so using a handplane really made things easier. Now I am making sleds like your jointing sled, but will say that the handplane has probably been the most used tool for fine adjustments even after improving my tablesaw and other tools!
If you are buying only one hand plane I would recommend a No.5 or a 5½. They are better at jointing than a No.4 and can still smooth but no where as expensive as the dedicated jointers the No.7 and No.8.
Thank you for the commentary and the ideas. When using the speed square as a circular saw guide. Be aware that for some reason the base of some brands extends about an 1/8th inch past the perpendicular side. Those will not work. I have found this in older speed squares.
In my short experience the four power tools to start with is a circular saw, miter saw, drill and table drill. Those don't need to be super expensive (although the higher you aim the easier it will be to do things right with them), but they are pretty much essential in woodworking. Then there is the table saw. That one is not only dangerous and requires that you really think-before-you-cut, but choosing a right one is really not that simple. Anyways - great video! Thanks!
Hi Mr. Matt. These are all good ideas for a work around not having the tools. For tool 1, the speed square is a great strait edge. And I have used it a lot for that. Just tip from me is you can use a stair gauge/ rafter gauge on the blade to help lock the edge on an angle when pushing though the cut. That has worked for me several times before I got a miter saw. Thanks for sharing Mr. Matt
I love your tool review videos, but these are better (for me anyway). As a beginner and hobbyist, these little tricks are very handy (for when I don't feel like breaking out he jointer, but already have the table saw out). So thanks.
One thing to add about using a four-foot square method for a jointer is that if the board is bowed, make sure the bow is facing toward the level. Otherwise it will teeter-totter. The two "high points" should be touching the square, and then those high points will be cut out after you establish the straight edge on the other side of the board. It seems obvious, but when I first started out, I think I turned a 1x6 into a 1x1 after chasing a straight edge because I had the bow rocking on the square and didn't realize it. I sure wish I had a video of that escapade. LOL
Regarding cutting angles, if you take a scrap piece that is wider than your work piece and cut the scrap to the angle you'd like, take another scrap piece and attach it rotated 90 degrees to the factory edge of the piece you just cut so that it will hook on the edge of your work piece. Use that jig to repeatedly cut identical angles.
Another way to explain to naysayers on the level jointer tip. If the board is fully against the fence before it touches the blade, you don't need the level. The level extends the reference surface of the fence to the entire board. You say that you must keep the backs together. This is why. If you had a long enough extended reference surface, you could clamp it to the table saw as an extended fence and then slide the board along as normal and get the same effect. I have something very similar to your jointing jig I made from a taper jig.
Edge jointing isn't that difficult to do. However, the real challenge is to face joint. If you want a good edge joint, you need to first face joint and then place the jointed face against the fence to joint the edge. Now you have two faces at right angles to each other and a reference edge between them from which to make your measurements. You can cut a perfect edge joint but without jointing a face, you still deal with cupping, twist and warp. If you are working with construction lumber, a jointer (even a 6in one) is probably the most practical tool because, as you showed, the other hacks are good substitutes
Great video. I've been getting more intro carpentry on my house...while my mind screams to get the fancy stuff the budget does not allow. My skillsaw game has been weak...I've found that even the cheap $14 milescraft saw guide does very well for cutting down hollow doors.
My track saw is my jointer. 2.5” depth on rails is a lot safer than raising my table saw blade 3” inch to account for jig height. Long boards, no problem.
You can use a 4ft. Level to do straight cuts as well. That's how I used to rip plywood when I needed a good straight cut. Just have clamp the level down and start cutting
In short, if you're on a tight budget, buy the tools that you need for the project(s) you want to accomplish. Know that there is usually a pretty strong correlation between the amount of money you spend and the quality of the tool you get. Cheap tools aren't necessarily bad tools, but you will find yourself having to readjust and recalibrate and resharpen them far more often. Speaking of, invest in decent measurement and alignment tools. If you have a table saw you use a lot it is worth getting a dial gauge to make sure the blade and fence and track slots are all in alignment and square. The quality of my cuts was night and day after spending 2 hours getting my DeWalt contractor table saw aligned. Calipers are very useful, even the cheap ones will work well for their main purpose - transferring measurements - with the only downside being the displayed measurements are likely off. Generally, when selecting measurement tools you want to see what the accuracy of the product, so it should say on the product or website what the accuracy is. If you don't see that, or if the accuracy isn't listed at three decimal places (thousandths of an inch), then the tool probably isn't worth getting. iGaging makes decent products for an affordable price, their accuracy is pretty high. You're not getting Starrett com levels of accuracy, but you're also not spending $200 for a 12" combination square. That Skil router table/router combo is like $200. It is pretty good. Not great, it is a little fussy and there are some shortcomings, but worth $200. There are some really good uses for a router table, and I would argue that depending on what you're trying to do it is a beginner tool. Plus the combo means you also have a router to use for other routing tasks; when I bought mine it came with a plunge base. The Wen variable speed benchtop drill press has been a tool I use more than I thought I would. I've used it to drill holes in wood, plastic, and metal, used it to make wood plugs and dowels, used it with a hole saw, etc. If the work you're going to do requires a lot of vertical drilling then this is a good budget friendly option. The Milescraft drill gizmo isn't terrible, but it isn't great either. It's best use case is for when a drill press is impractical, such as drilling a hole in a fence post or cutting into cinder block foundation. Can it take the place of a drill press? Kinda, so long as a handheld drill is all the power you need and you don't have 1,000 repeatable holes to make.
Disagree on the track saw, you can get a decent no-name one for about $100 (probably a lot less in the US, this is high tax Sweden prices...). If you plan on cutting a lot of sheet goods, get that instead of a circular saw and you're set. Works fine without the track as well, obviously. It's a little more than just a no-name circular saw, sure, but not enough to argue about. Compared to my no-name (older) circular saw, the track saw is way nicer, as it has to be fairly accurate to work in the track, the base is cast instead of (warped from the factory?) sheet metal. If I were to choose between the two, I'd get the track saw any day of the week.
Regarding the Hercules dust collector from Harbor Freight, Harbor Freight frequently runs a sale, like they're doing this weekend, where any single item is a certain percentage off. This weekend any single item is 15% off, but I've seen it as high as 40% off. That Hercules dust collector is already a steal at $299, but at 15% or even 40% off, it's even more of a steal.
Thanks for the video andcthe excellent tips. I really like tge rafter square edge guide. I've never seen one of those and I would find it very useful.👍
This is a pretty good list BUT i cannot stress enough how awesome it is to have a jointer. Can you joint boards without? O f course. BUT it will save you SOOOOOOO much time!!! And router tables?? Just make your own. Triton makes a router that you can use in one that basically doubles as a router lift. Awesome. Not hard or expensive to make a pretty good router table.
I laughed out loud with the leaf blower "dust collection" system. It's actually a great idea short of a more, uh, graceful, method. My shop is quite large, so a leaf blower makes light work out of it. Just be sure to wear a mask or respirator. I'm working on getting a better dust collection method, but for now, the Jeb Clampet (Beverly Hillbillies) method works.
I punched holes into my 12" speed square so that I could screw a 2'x2' 1/4" hobby panel to it, then very carefully ran the saw up the 90 degree and 45 degree sides to make my 'little' straight edge for my circular. I think I now have about 16-18" of runway before it gets wonky.
I agree, great points Matt! I found the Kreg AccuCut has too much wiggle for me. If I get another circular saw rip jig, it might be the Milescraft. Otherwise I’ll just save up for a track saw ;)
Bought the Milescraft because of this channel, just needed straight cuts, works perfect with my Ridgid 18v saw, and was surprisingly easy to set up, just need to take the tool swing clip off so that you can set the depth of the saw or it will get in the way.
There's some kind of edit around the 6:20 mark where he's trying to explain how the board against the level is different than the board against the fence. He says something about the board against the fence alone means the cut is referenced against the opposite side of the board, but doesn't explain how putting the level in there fixes that issue. After all, the fence is a flat surface; the level is also a flat surface, so it seems that it's the same situation, just with that flat surface three inches closer to the blade. The one difference I see is that the level is longer than the board, and moves with the board as you cut. That means the high points on the board facing away from the blade always remain in contact with the straight edge. If you just use the fence, as you push the board through, the far end of the board moves past the end of the fence, so the high points may no longer be in contact with the fence.
A miter saw, just get a quality blade and the sub $100 miter saw from black Friday. You can do it with a circular saw but at some point you are taking way too much time.
FYI I frequently find bench top router tables in used tool sections for cheap. Some won't have the router some will. It is odd enough and cumbersome enough that i think they don't resell well. I see them at pawn shops, Habitat restores, goodwill/salvation army. It is nice to be able to setup 2+ with different bits when you need to do a lot of repeated shapes.
I know a jig saw is the alternative to the band saw but I can never make clean rounded cuts the way I've seen a band saw can. There is not a lot of fine control so edges are uneven even after sanding. Plus using the jig saw for as short as an hour makes my hand numb. Any tricks to using the jig saw?
I can make good free hand cuts but if I have the ability to use a square or if I'm doing rip cuts a 4 ft level, straight edge or framing square clamp it off and do that.
Is that a Pepsi Rolex? 6:35 I definitely see a gap between the two boards. I'm watching on a PC, so can see what's actually going on unlike those watching on a tiny phone. I guess that's an example of not always 100% accurate.
I've been using hand tools for dangerously close to half a century. The TL;DR of the video could be: "Which power tool you don't need? _Every single one of them!"_
How good are swanson squares compared to Empire or Milwaukee squares? they seem to fly off the shelves at home depot (I went with empire) for demolition or rough cuts diablos are the best, but DIABLO if you're reading this can we move toward your blades not making everything red / pink 😅
The framing square fence is cool but CAD$32 at Lee Valley tools and CAD$60 on Amazon. WHY? It's just a small piece of extruded aluminum with two threaded holes. There's used mitre saws that are cheaper.
im using a 2.6 hk hover with my cyclone. ive had it with no bag change while 10 liters of dust is in my bucket beneath th cyclone. u have to use as much succhen as possible
RZ masks are good for periodic use but if you don't have it tight & have a clean shaven face it will let dust in. These are great filters but if they can't seal well no mask will work well. Bottom line safety gear doesn't work well if you don't use it properly.
Because you buy what you can afford at the time until you've got enough to buy better alternatives. The few hundred dollars spent on tools that'll get the job done all be it slower can build the things you sell to earn the couple thousand dollars to buy the better tools. Most people don't have thousands of dollars to just go buy the best tool for the job when starting out.
Miter saw is way better than any alternative. All og them needs experience and it can be more dangerous if not done right. Miter saw may cost more but any rookie can achieve accurate results. If you are using skilsaw for years its easier just to pick it out and cut a beam but a beginner will screw it up fast.
@731 woodworks, Great points Matt. But here’s one you. STOP cheating yourself out of the number of subs you have! Yes, I see that 651,000 sign behind you but you have more than that!!! 😂😂😂 ❤❤❤
Sign up for UA-cam Premium with my link to get 2 months free ua-cam.com/users/premium?cc=731woodworks&
Click "Read more" to see all of the tool links.
Watch Next: 99% of Beginners Don't Know These Woodworking Tips and Tricks - ua-cam.com/video/jXzS-76tz5M/v-deo.htmlsi=Pk1ec4_CxATrMWSd
Tools in this Video:
Swanson Speed Square - amzn.to/3Yo0gMs
Swanson Speed Square (7 and 12 inch combo pack) - amzn.to/3UtkEL1
Framing Square Fence - lddy.no/1kpsm
Framing Square - amzn.to/48sm7qT
Circular Saw - amzn.to/3NQjJQV
Diablo Circular Saw Blade - amzn.to/4emj84F
Stanley 48-inch I-Beam Level - amzn.to/40q3MbM
Craftsman 48-inch I-Beam Level - amzn.to/4eTkCEp
Dovetail Router Bit - amzn.to/4hDe3Yz
Dovetail Clamps 2-Pack - amzn.to/4hA576a
BOW Featherboard - amzn.to/4hmrM5H
Swanson Straight Edge - amzn.to/4ebVgQN
Kreg Rip Cut (Amazon) amzn.to/3YjAYPA
Kreg Rip Cut (Lowe's) creatoriq.cc/4hlP7o9
Milescraft Track Saw Guide - amzn.to/3YKH9N1
Milescraft Portable Drill Guide - amzn.to/3YJXPp3
RZ Mask M2 - amzn.to/3NGXuNx
Craftsman Shop Vac - amzn.to/4hlXujB
DeWALT StealthSonic Shop Vacs - creatoriq.cc/3Usy5e1
Dust Right Separator - amzn.to/3C3Fp9O
Mullet Dust Separator - amzn.to/3YGl0QX
Festool MFT Work Bench - amzn.to/3C2S64J
Festool Clamps for Workbench - amzn.to/4fmZciH
Kreg Router Template - amzn.to/3UtK634
Alumnium Router Templates - amzn.to/3Yo2jjC
Router Bit Set I Recommed - amzn.to/3YGfMVc
Router Templates - craftedelements.com/collections/router-templates
Beginner Woodworking Project Plan Bundle - www.731woodworks.com/store/p/ultimate-beginner-woodworker-plan-bundle use code BEGIN to save 20% off this bundle.
Hardwood Charcuterie Kits FREE SHIPPING www.ollogginsawmill.com/collections/wood-kits
Best Budget Power Tool Options I Recommend:
SKIL Miter Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3Aq7OGs
SKIL Miter Saw (Lowe's) creatoriq.cc/4f3zYWQ
SKIL Table Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3NJ7EwZ
SKIL Table Saw (Lowe's) - creatoriq.cc/3A7OrC9
Kobalt Table Saw - creatoriq.cc/3YwOmAa
Kreg Track Saw - amzn.to/4eYG9LS
WEN Drill Press - amzn.to/4fjTApu
Hercules Dust Extractor -
SKIL Router and Router Table Combo - amzn.to/3YjCz82
Hardwood Board Kits - www.ollogginsawmill.com/collections/wood-kits
Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks
Join the TUBAFOUR NATION to get exclusive access to member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks
See the full list of tools and supplies I recommend on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools
Some other useful links:
Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals
Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter
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Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
I love your transparency in humility. When you first started your hobby I believe the limited resources not only shaped your character but built your endurance. Huge encouragment to us! So little background, I'm just starting my wood working hobby and praying it opens up doors to support my family financially. It's a little scary not having everything I need but I believe the lord will provide. This desire to build isnt going away so im pushing forward. Thank you again for being such a huge blessing ❤
Buy the best, safest product you can afford, especially the ones that can remove your digits...I love ALL of mine.
I ruined a lot of projects (or attempted projects) before I acquired 1 thing...and you can't buy it. Patience. With patience comes skill. With skill comes confidence. After confidence, I sold enough projects to buy a compound sliding miter saw...and a table saw. Thanks for the tips!
Good on you! I fall into the trap of wanting to finish a project and I tend to get impatient at the end of the day…
I like this video. Even though I’m not a novice and have a good set of (power) tools what I don’t have is space in my garage for e.g. a cabinet table saw, jointer or planer. You show good, solid alternatives. Much appreciated.
This was a good video.
I've been using plug-in portable power tools since about 1968. And my first use of big power tools like a table saw, bandsaw and etc was 1974.
My most used tools that don't use any power are,
#1 the Swanson speed square. That brand is made of metal and almost indestructible. You can drop it, kick it and all kinds of abuse and because of how it's made it doesn't get out of square.
Like he showed it is really great for crosscutting 1x and 2x.
#2 24 inch steel framing square. Steel because of the durability. And 24" because it's just so useful.
#3 is up to you but you need a good writing pencil. The thinner lead the better but the trade-off is how easy the lead breaks. Myself, I buy a big bag of the plastic 0.7 mechanical pencils that are on sale really cheap during back to school sales. I got 50 for just under $7 and each one has 3 sets of extra lead in them. Added bonus is they are bright colors which makes them a tad bit easier to find when they are laying around. I just throw them away when they run out.
And here's my bonus tip. When you first start out and you make things that are either a gift or sale to a friend or family member don't point out your mistakes. Believe me, they usually don't notice them until you show them. Don't say things like "does this uneven seem bother you much?", or stuff like that. They don't notice it.
Have fun and don't worry about making mistakes. That's how we learn.
The bonus tip is gold. As a perfectionist, a lot of the mistakes bother me but other people either don't notice them or just don't care. I need to put this tip to practice. Thanks for sharing!!
Great Information: 35 years ago, when was first starting out I won the top award at the Southern California Design In Wood Show and all I had was a Craftsman 10" flex drive table saw - a cheapo Black & Decker router - a hand drill - and a bunch of clamps including some bar clamps.
Well informative video. Many people started the the same way. Milescraft really outdid themselves with their track guide. It turns a $30 circ saw into a $700 Dewalt or Festool tracksaw. It is also more modern and better engineered than their earlier tools. Kregs current track saw is only $300 and very good. I dont have a need for a track saw since I have a table saw and use a circ saw and straight edge to make 8ft rip cuts. The Kreg router radius guides are much cheaper and safer to use than the Woodpeckers set I bought way back. I do have the Milescraft drill press ($20) and their router compass ($40). The M2k router ($130) guide kept popping off my router so I had to return it.
I also have a Skil bench drill press ($130) I use to make mortises. This is cheaper than buying a mortiser.
I buy cheap and expensive tools simply because I am a hobbist and do not need much help or see much improvement with high level options.
I didn't know they had edge guides for framing squares. I just square the framing square to the table and clamp it.
Great video. Here are a couple of variations that may help also,
1: when using a speed square with a circular saw, I like to put the square on the far edge of the board (the edge I'm cutting toward) for longer cuts to prevent sideways movement after running off the end.
2: I do a similar thing as the level tick to joint boards on a table saw. The only difference is I use Unistrut/Superstrut so I can screw it in from the side and not have to worry about it shifting. You do have to add shims between the wood and the Superstrut if it's an actual live edge.
Point 1 is great, thanks for the tip!
I actually tried the level trick and found it to work ok, but even better I bought a no 4 hand plane (Ace had a basic Stanley for only $30) and now I'm addicted to using that for jointing. I got my table saw second hand and the fence isn't very good, so using a handplane really made things easier. Now I am making sleds like your jointing sled, but will say that the handplane has probably been the most used tool for fine adjustments even after improving my tablesaw and other tools!
If you are buying only one hand plane I would recommend a No.5 or a 5½. They are better at jointing than a No.4 and can still smooth but no where as expensive as the dedicated jointers the No.7 and No.8.
Thank you for the commentary and the ideas.
When using the speed square as a circular saw guide. Be aware that for some reason the base of some brands extends about an 1/8th inch past the perpendicular side.
Those will not work.
I have found this in older speed squares.
In my short experience the four power tools to start with is a circular saw, miter saw, drill and table drill. Those don't need to be super expensive (although the higher you aim the easier it will be to do things right with them), but they are pretty much essential in woodworking. Then there is the table saw. That one is not only dangerous and requires that you really think-before-you-cut, but choosing a right one is really not that simple. Anyways - great video! Thanks!
You should leave links to your shirts! This is one of my favorites you have worn!
Hi Mr. Matt. These are all good ideas for a work around not having the tools.
For tool 1, the speed square is a great strait edge. And I have used it a lot for that. Just tip from me is you can use a stair gauge/ rafter gauge on the blade to help lock the edge on an angle when pushing though the cut. That has worked for me several times before I got a miter saw.
Thanks for sharing Mr. Matt
I love your tool review videos, but these are better (for me anyway). As a beginner and hobbyist, these little tricks are very handy (for when I don't feel like breaking out he jointer, but already have the table saw out). So thanks.
I used my 4ft level (Stanley), table saw (Stanley), and Router (DeWalt) and Crasftsman drill, to build my Daughter's crib. The Level was boss.
One thing to add about using a four-foot square method for a jointer is that if the board is bowed, make sure the bow is facing toward the level. Otherwise it will teeter-totter. The two "high points" should be touching the square, and then those high points will be cut out after you establish the straight edge on the other side of the board. It seems obvious, but when I first started out, I think I turned a 1x6 into a 1x1 after chasing a straight edge because I had the bow rocking on the square and didn't realize it. I sure wish I had a video of that escapade. LOL
Another great video Matt. Full of tips and tricks. Keep up the great job. 👏
That jointing on the table saw is a great idea! Thanks :)
Super helpful! I got to get a carpenter square and edge guide. That will fit my needs perfectly. Thanks for all the tips!
Cool Vic saw! I just retired from a 25 year career as a salesman at a True Value.
The dovetail jig I found on your site, and use it all the time now... thank you !
Regarding cutting angles, if you take a scrap piece that is wider than your work piece and cut the scrap to the angle you'd like, take another scrap piece and attach it rotated 90 degrees to the factory edge of the piece you just cut so that it will hook on the edge of your work piece. Use that jig to repeatedly cut identical angles.
Great work around, Scott! I like them. Thank you. Please tell Mrs 731 hello and have a wonderful weekend! 😃😃😃❤❤❤
Very helpful. Need a dust mask so appreciate the recommendation.
Great tips as always Matt. I keep forgetting to use my level on my table saw. Thanks for the reminder. Also, my Skil router table is the best.
The skil job site tablesaw is a great budget tablesaw I love mine was $300, don’t think it has changed
true story! i watched all his methods when i got started made a lot of items to sell with minimum tools to be able to purchase some other things
Another way to explain to naysayers on the level jointer tip. If the board is fully against the fence before it touches the blade, you don't need the level. The level extends the reference surface of the fence to the entire board. You say that you must keep the backs together. This is why. If you had a long enough extended reference surface, you could clamp it to the table saw as an extended fence and then slide the board along as normal and get the same effect. I have something very similar to your jointing jig I made from a taper jig.
Edge jointing isn't that difficult to do. However, the real challenge is to face joint. If you want a good edge joint, you need to first face joint and then place the jointed face against the fence to joint the edge. Now you have two faces at right angles to each other and a reference edge between them from which to make your measurements. You can cut a perfect edge joint but without jointing a face, you still deal with cupping, twist and warp. If you are working with construction lumber, a jointer (even a 6in one) is probably the most practical tool because, as you showed, the other hacks are good substitutes
Just signed up for your free group yesteday, considering the paid one. I could really use some customers!
Great video. I've been getting more intro carpentry on my house...while my mind screams to get the fancy stuff the budget does not allow.
My skillsaw game has been weak...I've found that even the cheap $14 milescraft saw guide does very well for cutting down hollow doors.
My track saw is my jointer. 2.5” depth on rails is a lot safer than raising my table saw blade 3” inch to account for jig height. Long boards, no problem.
You can use a 4ft. Level to do straight cuts as well. That's how I used to rip plywood when I needed a good straight cut. Just have clamp the level down and start cutting
Where I grew up we pronounced jointer “ joiner.” Even my wood shop teachers in junior and senior high school pronounced it that way.
Excellent tip in using a level against the fence
Thanks for the video. Have a great day.
Thanks! You too!
Thanks for the video and Props for the Black Bay Tudor!
Mitter saw is the best tool !!
In short, if you're on a tight budget, buy the tools that you need for the project(s) you want to accomplish. Know that there is usually a pretty strong correlation between the amount of money you spend and the quality of the tool you get. Cheap tools aren't necessarily bad tools, but you will find yourself having to readjust and recalibrate and resharpen them far more often.
Speaking of, invest in decent measurement and alignment tools. If you have a table saw you use a lot it is worth getting a dial gauge to make sure the blade and fence and track slots are all in alignment and square. The quality of my cuts was night and day after spending 2 hours getting my DeWalt contractor table saw aligned. Calipers are very useful, even the cheap ones will work well for their main purpose - transferring measurements - with the only downside being the displayed measurements are likely off.
Generally, when selecting measurement tools you want to see what the accuracy of the product, so it should say on the product or website what the accuracy is. If you don't see that, or if the accuracy isn't listed at three decimal places (thousandths of an inch), then the tool probably isn't worth getting. iGaging makes decent products for an affordable price, their accuracy is pretty high. You're not getting Starrett com levels of accuracy, but you're also not spending $200 for a 12" combination square.
That Skil router table/router combo is like $200. It is pretty good. Not great, it is a little fussy and there are some shortcomings, but worth $200. There are some really good uses for a router table, and I would argue that depending on what you're trying to do it is a beginner tool. Plus the combo means you also have a router to use for other routing tasks; when I bought mine it came with a plunge base.
The Wen variable speed benchtop drill press has been a tool I use more than I thought I would. I've used it to drill holes in wood, plastic, and metal, used it to make wood plugs and dowels, used it with a hole saw, etc. If the work you're going to do requires a lot of vertical drilling then this is a good budget friendly option.
The Milescraft drill gizmo isn't terrible, but it isn't great either. It's best use case is for when a drill press is impractical, such as drilling a hole in a fence post or cutting into cinder block foundation. Can it take the place of a drill press? Kinda, so long as a handheld drill is all the power you need and you don't have 1,000 repeatable holes to make.
Great video as always Matt. Thanks for sharing
great video - these are all super helpful tips. thanks man
Disagree on the track saw, you can get a decent no-name one for about $100 (probably a lot less in the US, this is high tax Sweden prices...).
If you plan on cutting a lot of sheet goods, get that instead of a circular saw and you're set. Works fine without the track as well, obviously.
It's a little more than just a no-name circular saw, sure, but not enough to argue about. Compared to my no-name (older) circular saw, the track saw is way nicer, as it has to be fairly accurate to work in the track, the base is cast instead of (warped from the factory?) sheet metal.
If I were to choose between the two, I'd get the track saw any day of the week.
Regarding the Hercules dust collector from Harbor Freight, Harbor Freight frequently runs a sale, like they're doing this weekend, where any single item is a certain percentage off. This weekend any single item is 15% off, but I've seen it as high as 40% off. That Hercules dust collector is already a steal at $299, but at 15% or even 40% off, it's even more of a steal.
Thanks for the video andcthe excellent tips. I really like tge rafter square edge guide. I've never seen one of those and I would find it very useful.👍
My harbor freight bauer dust separator on 55gal metal barrel. Separates all material no shaving in my 5hp craftsman shop vac
A good alternative to the Framing Square Fence is a Stair Gauge Set. Less expensive and more versatile.
Nice Tudor!
This is a pretty good list BUT i cannot stress enough how awesome it is to have a jointer. Can you joint boards without? O f course. BUT it will save you SOOOOOOO much time!!! And router tables?? Just make your own. Triton makes a router that you can use in one that basically doubles as a router lift. Awesome. Not hard or expensive to make a pretty good router table.
You can also get the larger Swanson Speed Square. Still inexpensive. I have both and use them all the time.
Another great video sir.
Some great tips, thank you
My two cents it to buy a 12” speed square as one of your first tools
I laughed out loud with the leaf blower "dust collection" system. It's actually a great idea short of a more, uh, graceful, method. My shop is quite large, so a leaf blower makes light work out of it. Just be sure to wear a mask or respirator. I'm working on getting a better dust collection method, but for now, the Jeb Clampet (Beverly Hillbillies) method works.
Still use my Dads speed square!
Really good ideas, thanks!
I punched holes into my 12" speed square so that I could screw a 2'x2' 1/4" hobby panel to it, then very carefully ran the saw up the 90 degree and 45 degree sides to make my 'little' straight edge for my circular. I think I now have about 16-18" of runway before it gets wonky.
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!!!!!!
Great video, Matt.
As usual a ton of info, didn't know about using the framing square, that could have helped...Keep it up...
I agree, great points Matt!
I found the Kreg AccuCut has too much wiggle for me. If I get another circular saw rip jig, it might be the Milescraft. Otherwise I’ll just save up for a track saw ;)
Bought the Milescraft because of this channel, just needed straight cuts, works perfect with my Ridgid 18v saw, and was surprisingly easy to set up, just need to take the tool swing clip off so that you can set the depth of the saw or it will get in the way.
I had the a bit of the same issue. Maybe it's a practice thing, or a faulty operator bearing (me).
@ I introduce operator error into using even the nicest of tools, so I can definitely relate to that! Haha!
There's some kind of edit around the 6:20 mark where he's trying to explain how the board against the level is different than the board against the fence. He says something about the board against the fence alone means the cut is referenced against the opposite side of the board, but doesn't explain how putting the level in there fixes that issue. After all, the fence is a flat surface; the level is also a flat surface, so it seems that it's the same situation, just with that flat surface three inches closer to the blade.
The one difference I see is that the level is longer than the board, and moves with the board as you cut. That means the high points on the board facing away from the blade always remain in contact with the straight edge. If you just use the fence, as you push the board through, the far end of the board moves past the end of the fence, so the high points may no longer be in contact with the fence.
They make a 12" Swanson speed square, so it can be a fence for 12" wide boards.
Your jig is also an excellent tip
You can make every one of those jigs and strait edges out of scrap lumber, every one!!!!!
A miter saw, just get a quality blade and the sub $100 miter saw from black Friday. You can do it with a circular saw but at some point you are taking way too much time.
I could have used that framing square fence last night, my cut looked terrible. Thankfully perfection wasn’t needed.
FYI I frequently find bench top router tables in used tool sections for cheap. Some won't have the router some will. It is odd enough and cumbersome enough that i think they don't resell well.
I see them at pawn shops, Habitat restores, goodwill/salvation army. It is nice to be able to setup 2+ with different bits when you need to do a lot of repeated shapes.
You rock dude
I know a jig saw is the alternative to the band saw but I can never make clean rounded cuts the way I've seen a band saw can. There is not a lot of fine control so edges are uneven even after sanding. Plus using the jig saw for as short as an hour makes my hand numb. Any tricks to using the jig saw?
Happy Halloween everyone 🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃
I can make good free hand cuts but if I have the ability to use a square or if I'm doing rip cuts a 4 ft level, straight edge or framing square clamp it off and do that.
Is that a Pepsi Rolex? 6:35 I definitely see a gap between the two boards. I'm watching on a PC, so can see
what's actually going on unlike those watching on a tiny phone. I guess that's an example of not always 100% accurate.
lol not a rolex. It's a Tudor.
I've been using hand tools for dangerously close to half a century. The TL;DR of the video could be: "Which power tool you don't need? _Every single one of them!"_
Where on earth did that shirt pocket come from!! Holy smokes!
How good are swanson squares compared to Empire or Milwaukee squares? they seem to fly off the shelves at home depot (I went with empire)
for demolition or rough cuts diablos are the best, but DIABLO if you're reading this can we move toward your blades not making everything red / pink 😅
The framing square fence is cool but CAD$32 at Lee Valley tools and CAD$60 on Amazon. WHY? It's just a small piece of extruded aluminum with two threaded holes. There's used mitre saws that are cheaper.
Lee Valley is a CAD company. And can ship in country.
That is a jointer (thumbnail)? What joint does it make?
Jointer, not joiner.
@@731Woodworks Yes, jointer. So it must make a joint. Asking which one. (A joiner is a class of woodworker).
I'm having Tudor envy
Did you see the new FXD GMT they released yesterday 👀 😱
If you are uncoordinated like me and don't want to hold the square, clamp a vice on it real quick. Edit: Welp, looks like you already address this...
Can a cyclone be used with a dust extractior?
im using a 2.6 hk hover with my cyclone. ive had it with no bag change while 10 liters of dust is in my bucket beneath th cyclone. u have to use as much succhen as possible
Yes though you might need a adaptor for the extractor hose depending on which one you have.
Carpenter squares are notoriously not square. They need to be squared periodically by tapping one end or the other
I prefer clamping the squares.
Where can I get a FVT shirt??
RZ masks are good for periodic use but if you don't have it tight & have a clean shaven face it will let dust in. These are great filters but if they can't seal well no mask will work well. Bottom line safety gear doesn't work well if you don't use it properly.
Good video, just made me laugh to watch you using a speed square and circular saw that cost maybe $60 total on a $600+ MFT table hahaha!
I noticed that also!! But I guess that just shows how far he has come
I got my stuff on marketplace
Why haven't I known about framing square fences or stair gauges before watching this video? 🤦♂
What is a tuba for? 😆
Playing music, usually. But in AR they are for building stuff.
How the hell did you do that with the square and your shirt was that movie magic or just plain old fashioned magic?
Don't need but why buy twice. There are a few things you don't cheap out on
Because you buy what you can afford at the time until you've got enough to buy better alternatives. The few hundred dollars spent on tools that'll get the job done all be it slower can build the things you sell to earn the couple thousand dollars to buy the better tools. Most people don't have thousands of dollars to just go buy the best tool for the job when starting out.
Miter saw is way better than any alternative. All og them needs experience and it can be more dangerous if not done right. Miter saw may cost more but any rookie can achieve accurate results. If you are using skilsaw for years its easier just to pick it out and cut a beam but a beginner will screw it up fast.
@731 woodworks, Great points Matt. But here’s one you. STOP cheating yourself out of the number of subs you have! Yes, I see that 651,000 sign behind you but you have more than that!!! 😂😂😂 ❤❤❤
Ah, there was me thinking "Miter" was spelt as "Mitre"....
Jesus shirt, Diablo saw blade.
shouty man just talk!
Ugghh
The 99% titles again
At least it's not another tool review haha #731woodworks
99% of beginners don't know about clickbait.
@mrscience1409 🤣
@@mrscience1409 or... 99% beginners don't need clickbait. Lol
If it ain’t broke 🤷🏻♂️ 😂. These titles have traditionally done well. If it does I’ll leave it if not I’ll try something else.
1:15. this is starting to bother me. Too well done that it messes with my mind. AHHHHH
Why is it always 99%. Never 97 or 80 or 20%
99% is more clickable, it makes the info seem more unknown. It's all advertising.
If you know it already, then you are more rare and elite if you are in the 1% rather than the top 20%. 😜😂
99%?