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@@ahoymatee1 if you grab the heat shield (wait til it's cold or wear gloves!!)..you will feel it is loose indicating broken studs, also if it is coming from passenger or driver side easily notable from under the truck. A camshaft would be a more central to the motor noise.
The gasket looks like they are correct fit for my 2017 5.7 V8 (according to Amazon part matcher). Are those studs/bolts the correct size for my truck? According to Amazon they won't match my vehicle.
Dealer wants $1800++, local shop not much better. You gave me complete confidence that I can do this myself. You even gave me a link to a good quality extractor set - you da man! Your videos are always so well put together. Thank you for doing this, and please keep the content coming!
Thanks for the video brother, Now I know exactly what that cold start ticking noise is and most importantly get it fixed. Really appreciate guys like you that take the time to help guys like me that might not know as much. God bless my brother 💪
That "special" bit the guy used to get out your broken extractor bit is called a "rescue bit". It's an extractor bit that is extra hard so that it will even bite into drill bits and broken normal extractor bits. By the way, your video is quite good, and has given me the confidence to try fixing the exact same exhaust leak on my 2011 Ram. The dealer wants $462 per side, and just hell no.
Thanks Bryan! Glad you liked the video and found it helpful! I agree its expensive to have done at the dealer and really they should warranty this or come up with an update as every truck does this....
also know as an easy out. He's right though buy a quality set, use the biggest size for the hole you drill in the stud and push it in by hand and NEVER pound it into the hole... its not necessary. great vid, thx.
Excellent video have ‘17 ram at about 35k had 3 break fortunately under warranty but your assessment of what t being a common problem is dead on!! Never had them break back in the day of original mopar muscle! I think u do the BEST videos of all the mopar stuff I have watched and have used some of your less expensive suggestions it was so easy to do after watching your keep up the GREAT VIDEOS I’m sure many people have benefitted
Use a small torch heat up broken stud. use birthday candle place against the hot broken stud it sucks up the wax in the threads and lubricate will turn easier old machines showed me this trick
Eh that doesn't really work. I would say another method is to weld a nut onto the broken stud (for those that have a MIG welder). The heat of welding will expand the steel stud and break the rust bond. The aluminum dissipates heat very quickly so it should come out fairly easily. Also weld won't stick to aluminum. So just hit it a few times to build up a bead and then try to very slowly turn it out.
Umm... you can still weld a bead on to the broken stud even if it’s flush or a little below the hole. Weld won’t stick to aluminum, so if you are good you can still put a bead on the broken stud.
I was able to extract my broken bolts without removing the manifold. I used a left handed drill bit to extract the broken bolts. did Passenger side 5000 miles ago. One finally broke on the driver side. Going to do the driver side this weekend. Dealer wanted 1000.00 to do the job. HATE the dealership. Easy Job. Took more time to take the wheel and inner fender out than it did to replace the studs.
Yep, that's exactly what happened to my truck. It's in the shop right now because we are on vacation and I don't have the necessary tools to do it myself. I do have the extended warranty on the vehicle so it's only going cost me $100 to have them do it. I enjoy your videos, they are very informative and easy to follow. Job well done.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make and post this video. I watched it about 10 times before ripping into my '09 Ram. You made working on the driver's side look so easy. I had both of the rear bolts snapped on the right side...only one was flush with the head. On the left side...what a PITA... both rear bolts were snapped, and I snapped the forward upper one when I went to break it free. Because of this video, I knew what parts and tools I would need to have on hand, THANK YOU! I drilled out 4 bolts snapped off flush, and used vice grips to get the one that was snapped off flush with the manifold. Did I say you made it look so danged easy? I did go to the Dodge parts counter and buy the stock gaskets with the flange shields, as well as a set of the stainless bolts to put in the rear positions. The part number of the "double ended" stainless bolt is 6509863AA, I used 4. One more time, thank you! Subscribed!
Thanks Gary I greatly appreciate your support and feedback! It's comments like these that keep me motivated to keep producing content frequently! I know it can be an absolute nightmare getting some of these bolts out which is why if I ever hear the slightest ticking I try to get the bolts replaced right away before more start snapping. I also just posted the 16 spark plug DIY video and have engine oil and 8 speed transmission fluid change videos already on the channel! Let me know what you think of some of the other videos when you get a chance too! 👍
I've done a lot of exhaust manifolds, mostly Ford trucks with broken studs. I Mig weld a nut over the stud then work the nut and stud out together. This only works on aluminum heads.
You make some great easy to follow videos. Just had some BBK shortys installed on my 2010. 3 broken bolts and two cracked manifolds. 117K miles on the truck. Wish I had seen your vids before, would’ve saved me some money. Keep it up, and thanks.
Mine just started doing it on cold starts. It only does it for a few seconds. The truck has 23k miles on it too. I was freaking out thinking it was the engine. This video really helped me not freak out! Thankfully its under warranty and the dealer should fix it for free
I've repeatedly read from "those in the know" that milling/planing down the heads to remove the warp is a good idea to help prevent this from happening again. Good video.
So I just did this on my 2012 Ram 1500. Thanks for the great video. One thing that I will add is to check to make sure that your exhaust manifold is level on a flat surface. My truck has 160,000 miles and the driver side manifold was slightly warped. I replaced it with a new one because I think the warped one will just break the bolts again sooner.
Hey, nice video. my 04 1500 ram with 190k is just starting to do the cold start tic. I figured it was the exhaust manifold but haven't diagnosed it yet. I thought when you was drilling out the broken bolt "oh, oh, looks mighty small" then you compounded the problem by using HF tools. So a great tip to tell viewers, a broken stud and you only get one shot at it before more serious problems start. Great video
Thnk you for the detailed video. It helped me to accurately diagnose the cold startup sound which I initially took to be dry lifters but would last way too long on a cold day. Today I was able to fix the issue and replace the bolts and broken stud on my 2016 Ram 1500. With your comments and video I was able to plan for the task and get the correct tools to extract the stud broken off flush. I used a tungsten carbide drill bit for the pilot hole and a left-hand cobalt drill bit and extractor to remove the broken off stud. I also used OEM parts for this. It is worth noting that the front and rear studs are not the same. They have different part numbers and differ in appearance, but only on the 13mm hex face. The rear stud (more likely to break, guess they're made from a stronger material) seem to have a groove in the centre of th hexagon, all around. They're about double the price of the front ones ($8 vs $4) and have a dab of white paint on them when ordered new. The process went smooth because I knew what to expect and how to execute. This is all made possible by guys like you, enabling the rest of us with your knowledge. Huge thanks!
There should be a mandatory safety recall for the exhaust manifold (hemi tick). After all, an exhaust leak can get into the cab of the truck. When I bought my 1500 2012 Ram I got an extended warranty. The truck is at the dealer now and the exhaust manifold is being repaired for a second time. This is a great video. I'm confused why you used OEM parts when it is OEM parts that are failing. Nonetheless, thanks for the video. When my warranty ends, I'll use the video to repair said item myself.
I'll tell my story to hopefully save someone headaches. Both my exhaust manifold needed to be milled flat, which ran me $104. This took me two weeks because of trial and much error. Busted bolts- I ordered highly flexible long cobalt aircraft drill bits, but they weren't making much of a dent in the bolts broken off in the aluminum heads. I bought a Milwaukee 90 degree drill, then left-handed cobalt drill bits, but still not much of an impact. I broke off an extractor in one bolt, and just gave up on that bolt. Diamond Dremel bits didn't make much of an impact. What did work? I followed the advice of a mechanic on UA-cam who used a Dremel with Pearson Dental M19-2818 points with an Amazon, "No Cry Professional Rotary Tool Kit", which has the flex shaft so you can get behind the frame. Grind into the bolts, then use a bolt extractor. I got the big Irwin set. First one I twisted off, but two others came out.
i had all of them break on my 2015 Ram sport after 100,000km and i took it to the dealer they wanted $1,200 ( Canadian ) to replace the ones on just the drivers side ! so thank you for this video !!!
Tyler Shouldice My Ram dealer replaced both side manifolds, studs, gaskets and shields free of charge. 2010 Ram 1500 5.7L over 120,000 Km and over 7 years old at the time. I contacted FCA on the issue and never had an issue. Not warranty, not recall and not service bulletin. Some sort if customer loyalty thing.
Tyler Shouldice .. . I had my 2013 ram in for cam change at 180k mi, which was covered by my lifetime powertrain warranty... They noticed a slight leak from the header and change the broken stud free of charge which is not covered by the powertrain warranty... It was covered by FCA somehow. I would do like suggested and contact FCA... Or just change it out with this really well Illustrated video as a backup
I drilled and extracted the bolt that broke off on my Dakota 4.7, total pain in the behind. I recently picked up a Ram 1500 and both manifolds were ticking and found both with two broken bolts (flush with block). Haven't welded anything in 35 years but had a small mig welder I bought off amazon a year before and was sitting in the box on the shelf. I watched a few videos and then proceeded to weld nuts to the broken bolts...so much easier than drilling.
Thanks man now I won't have to pay someone else to do it. I was worried it was hard to do or take special tools. You make it look easy enough I'll give it a try. Thanks again man awesome
Thats great David let us know how it goes! When you get a chance check out the other Mopar content on the channel! We have a ton of RAM maintenance, performance, and upgrade videos and are documenting the whole HellRAM truck build here too 🤙
woops - my blunder ... pertaining to my recent comment below ... the Dorman part # for the exhaust manifold hardware kit is - 03211 or 03211cd - both will do the job ... fitment is for years '03 to '08 ... these include '9' bolts/studs/nuts and are for either side - to do both will require 2 kits. Dorman part # [[ 03309 ]] works for a few newer years. Note - part # 03411 I had listed - is for certain Fords. Again ... great vid Boosted2k - keep em all comin' !!!
good video !! very professional !! not one "F" bomb ... I would have to spend more time editing out bad language than actually working ...I appreciated the advice about cheap bits and extractors.. thank you..
Thanks Glenn I appreciate it! Plenty more videos on the way and be sure to check out all the other maintenance and mod videos for our trucks too on this channel 👍
A friend of mine, Craig, reminded me of the old solution for rusted bolts (nuts, studs). Carefully heat the offender with a torch then quench with oil. It works. Heat a broken bolt or stud then squirt some oil then use extractors. The heat+oil even makes drilling easier. 🤘Thanks for the upload!
kudos to this video and to your camera person , your information is perfect , and on point ,....my truck also has this issue and judging by the videos and posts on youtube makes me ask " Why doesn't someone make a bolt kit as indestructible as header bolts , instead of replacing with stock style bolts ... because they suck ! "
Thanks for the feedback! Thats true it would be a good idea for someone to make stock style bolts with the tabs for posts for the headshields from a higher grade!
Very nice video! I had a -09 with the same problem, now a new to me 2014 1500 Hemi.. Same problem passenger side. I live in Sweden so no recalls or good wills here. But still love the truck. Will mount a 6" lift next weekend and 37" wheels! Looking forward to it! Love your channel!
Thanks for the video, my 2011 just started doing this. I thought at first it was the Hemi tick, but the sound goes away once it's warmed up, just as you showed. Thanks again
Why do so many youtubers think we want to jam out to the backgroud music of an instructional video? I'm 3 minutes in and it is really frustrating to have to keep turning down the volume every time the music comes in only to have to turn it back up so I can hear him speaking. I doubt I'm the only one who did this. I truly appreciate the content, but...seriously...no one give a hairy hoot about your extra-loud intro or background music. Thanks again for the content.
Great video, I use reverse drill bits instead of extractors. The bolts will often back out when you are drilling. Also if you do break an extractor, just weld a nut on the end of the stud and get good penetration and you can use a socket. I have done this even if broken off flush. The steel is not going to melt and bond with the aluminum. I the case of the one you had that broke l, I bet it would back out with a reverse bit and I would heat the aluminum around the bolt and inside that open port I only use extractors on bolts that I know will spin easy. As soon as you tap it in it expands and locks those threads. If they don't bite either a very light tap, they only make it worse. Could be worse, could be a ford with a busted off spark plug.
thanks man your videos are so informative and every time I have something wrong with my Dodge I always watch your videos I'm currently trying to replace all my exhaust manifold bolts so this video really helps out thanks again
I love your videos! Because of this one, I was able to find the ticking I had and fixed it myself. I was lucky! The bolt that broke was on the passenger side and broke off right at the head. I was able to grab it with a pair of vise-grips to take it out. Thanks a bunch! You saved me a bunch of money!
I have 2012 Ram and this happen to me a about a year ago. Changed out the stock manifolds and installed BBK headers and Stage 8 fasteners. Have not had a problem. Most definitely take out the fend liners. Also remove the steer shaft. Makes it easier.
@@jeepin4x4YJ I put them on at 45k and traded in the truck at 93k. Towing a 8500lb RV trailer and drag racing the 1/8 mile on Friday nights. I also changed out the clutch fan and shroud for a V6 one of the same year. great upgrade.
@@jeepin4x4YJ It will be worth it. Also put a oil catch can. You will be amazed at the amount of oil it catches. The truck was awesome. I bored and stroked it to a 6.7 after the warranty ran out 36k Used an kit from Arrington Performance. It was the biggest kit they had for the 5.7 block. could not put any boost of it though. Traded it in for a Power Wagon. Used car manager and the Service manager test drove it and the Service Manager at the dealer bought it off me.
Driver side took me a whole day and passenger side took about 1 hour. You're lucky if the bolt snaps outside of head, then its easier to remove stud. Driver side, i had to weld on a nut to be able to grip it. If it breaks again ill go with shortys but i headd shortys can crack aswell thats why i hesitated to switch to shortys instead. Thanks for the vid brother
Got the passenger side done pretty quick. My truck was quiet. If it's not broken=don't fix it. Went to the driver side. Scraped the new gasket and caused a leak after i installed it. Had to go back to the original gasket. Had to switch out 2 times. Not fun. Things i found out to make it easier. Pull out the dipstick tube to remove the manifold and cover. The exhaust pipe has a tendency to push the manifold cockeyed when placing it in it. Causing the scraped gasket. Take a piece of 2x4 and place between tranny and exhaust to get the right angle to tighten the manifold bolts.
I must give props, your the coolest mechanic wearing flipflops/sandals (depending on where you from) I've ever seen. Dressed ready to go to the beach on the fly. Lol Nice video again. Thanks
Every time something breaks always go with an upgrade for the fix. Or you will just be back at square one all over again. This is a great excuse to chuck those manifolds for headers. Much easier job on the 2wd. My 04 4x4 is a little harder with the shock towers right where you need to work. Also the couple minutes it takes to disconnect the steering shaft and get it out of the way is worth it. Good video.
Good idea. Hey if they use trash at the factory. When it breaks find the next best thing. I find it reduces how much I have to think about in life. Good video.
Be sure to check out the other RAM Maintenance, Upgrade, and Performance videos on this channel! We are also working on project HellRAM and supercharging this 100k mile truck and documenting the full build on the channel 👍👍👍
The bits your refering to are called "cobalt" bits. They are about 2 to 3 times the price of regular black oxide or titanium bits. They have the hardness to bite through the case hardening that those studs are made of. You can buy the bits at any Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards
This video is exactly why I bought the lifetime warranty with Chrysler. I’m pretty good at working on vehicles, but you make it look so easy. I would not try to tackle this, I would do more harm than good.🤦🏼♂️ I love this channel!👍🏻
thanks, I just assumed it was a sticking lifter. I've got an 04 that has been doing it for a long time now. I'll fix it when I get into the header gasket work.
My 2013 Tradesman is in the shop for this with 46k miles. Your points are awesome! Suck this is going to be a problem every 3 years. Damn Tick sound like a lifters or something worse.
Try that here in the Northeast rust belt. doing my 01 5.9 Ram. The fender and steel liner are welded together so had to remove as single unit. Two center studs snapped off in block. Grade 8 studs so forget about drilling them. Had to weld a nut to them. Cast iron heads so no worry about the weld sticking to the block. I laid a straight edge across the manifold ports and the center ports do not lay on the same plane as the two outer. too low. ordered new one. hope it's better. Crap is made in China so I'm not getting my hopes up. Also noticed that the gasket was pretty much gone. (Fel-Pro). Lasted two years. Ordered some Edelbrocks composite.
My 2017 RAM 1500 with 14k miles just started to make this same exact noise on the passenger side. Going to take it to the dealership to see if they fix it. Thanks for the video.
good to hear back from ya Boost ... wish i could've done an edit to the 1st comment to simply change the kit part #'s and also add that the 'measly $10 cost for the hardware kit' happened to be for the 03411 Ford kit ... the 03211 kit for these Rams is notta anywheres near that cheap ... its more like $35 ... ges they know they'll make a killin cuz they surely sell alot more of em ! (lol) ... i did one of these for a friend in need also using the Mopar kit but its been a year or so & forget how much it was or a part # for it but anyone in need could probably just call any dealer for the info ... the one i did then was an '04 that had the rears sheared on the passenger side ... gasket was ok - replaced it anyways with a Felpro. Hava great year my friend !
Hats off bro that was a good video. The only thing I would have done differently is instead of drilling and using an extractor I would have plug welded a nut over the broken stud. If you have access to a MIG welder and basic welding skills this is much easier and much faster. I have even done this when the stud is broken off below the surface of the head. The weld being mild steel and the head being aluminum as in this case or cast iron in others won't stick to the head. Try it next time. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark! Yeah I've seen that method and it definitely looks much easier! I didn't have access to a welder with the truck in the driveway but I completely agree its a quick easy method and beats this drilling nonsense if you can!
Thanks for this video. My local speed shop told me I have an exhaust manifold leak on my driver's side (2019 RAM 1500, DT), but I don't hear *any ticking??? Thanks to your video, I know I don't hear anything out of the ordinary! I wonder if they're lying to me (hmm?)?! Again, many thanks...
i was off-roading in my 2016 ram 1500 big horn 4x4 and one of mine snapped I was actually able to see it today and now i get to change mine at 57k miles
Next time you do this it would be good to check the manifolds to see if there was any warpage, that is usually what causes the bolts to break. Thanks for the video.
Very well done video ... and after scrolling down to the end of this lengthy read - do apologize for takin' up 1/2 a webpage here ! (lol) There is a kit I've come across and used for this ... 'Dorman Manufacturing' (who supplies the vast majority of aftermarket replacement parts to out-the-door parts counter vendors) ... [[ 'Exhaust Manifold Mount Kit' - 03411 - comes with 10 studs/nuts ]] - U can pick this kit up for a mere $10 ... (note this referenced part # may not be the same at every vendor u possibly encounter and only know it fits 5.7L's with the same manifold configuration possibly not all 5.7L Hemi's ) ... Dormans kit is sufficiently the same quality thou not better than original Mopar - your choice) ... as for the gaskets (if u would decide to replace) range from $20-40 ... normally my 'go to' choice is 'Felpro' for this project - (again 'your choice') then as 'Booster2k' admits to saving a few bucks here n there - (no issue again 'your choice') since most of the time it's a bolt/stud issue. The rest of this comment is aimed to those that have become a victim of this same issue - the same apparent FAIL and where to place "blame" ! A well-known FAIL since Chrysler dealers, alot of mechanics, and of course alot of Ram owners all over the country have faced this very same issue at some point in time - BUT is it an engineering FAIL or otherwise ..... Is the main issue here to do with "exhaust manifold design", "faulty exhaust fasteners", maybe even "exhaust hanger design" ... in this instance seemingly all 3 are culprits to some point in breeding this unavoidable issue with a 5.7L Hemi in any Ram no matter what year and will eventually succumb to this dreadful exhaust leak issue ... thou is it due to a poor design in engineering from the ground level at Chrysler - (the engine itself being without issue). Normally an issue is born either by an error or once a "retrofit" takes place ... in this instance - (to make it fit / make it work) in a chassis 'final' design beit all marketed factory chassis' ... all deemed ok to go except for one thing - the exhaust manifolds ... so back to engineers it goes - biggest obstacle (best flow and best fitment) AND both within a timeline ... promptly arrived in the flow dept. thou lacking in fitment to all chassis' due to insufficient time to market - ok quite a possiblity but possibly not. Now let's move on to whose dept. is it to get the "weight" handled - the weight of the entire exhaust system which is spread out beneath the chassis ... where oh where to install "hangers" - we all know if a hanger fails what holds the weight - well alot of that gets transferred to the exhaust manifold itself correct? Are most bolts/studs that are found broken or loose toward the rear or at front and which side are they mostly found? Is factory hanger placement involved? Is it worn hanger (stretched rubber) involved? Weakened bolts/studs due to heat cycling? Thou as it seems a Chrysler engineering FAIL to allow it to continue BUT there is another point that comes into play here - could it be this ... ( #4 ). Could it be just plain "torque" (no no - not bolt torque here ... "ENGINE TORQUE"). I'd say all of the above thou one big aspect of the issue becomes very apparent - all have to do with TIME and USE ... and that word "torque" and what it describes keeps on poppin' up ... OK who doesnt every now n then "mash the gas" ... beit hardly ever or more often than not - (of course U will because that's more than most a reason why u have a Hemi ... well torque causes "twist" ... constant twisting and flexing is how this issue 'can' slowly develop ... when the engine TWISTS due to torque the chassis doesn't want to give - hence where does that twist get transferred to - OUCH ! AND over a period of time that's alot of twistin' action ! Then again - hey what about engine mounts? They play a major role in handling this - (well it seems they do their job well in this case and pass it on somewhere else). Are there stronger bolts/studs - possibly ... then why does Chrysler not use them ... heheheheh - they do ! IF the bolt/studs would not fail at some point (remember the head is aluminum) where do ya think the twist force would then be tranferred to??? OUCH !!! Then why not are other hi-output torque twisters out there prone to this same issue ... some do some don't ... do others approach the 100k mileage barrier and beyond in time ??? We just have a sure fire winner here in the 5.7L Hemi in a Dodge Ram ... so is it all a Chrysler FAIL ??? Where to place blame is to where it has been spread thru out the course of time and periods of usage. Long live the HEMI !!!
wow thanks for the lengthy response! lol Yeah I do believe some twist/flex could play a factor. The other reason is that the catalytic converters are VERY close to that last exhaust port and the bolts are usually pretty cooked looking on those last cylinders so having that high heat backed up these definitely doesn't help the problem either. Just keep an eye out for which model year you have and which kit you get cause there are some changes to the heat-shield and bolt/studs over the different years.
I have a 2012 Dodge Ram and I love what you're doing with yours... especially the hellcat wheels... I'm having the same problem with the manifold I'm planning to swap them out but I was wondering if the replacement bolts are better than the ones that the truck comes with?
Man I have a huge burnt oil smell once the truck is hot and I'm parked it at stopped at a light. Idk what it is but I'm guessing it's a oil leak that's dripping down into the exhaust and makes it burn any idea what it could be ?
I have a 2013 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. The truck has 40,200 miles and just had the manifolds (warped) and bolts replaced. Cost almost $1200 with no guarantee it won't happen again. Man, it's been a good truck but that problem is expensive.
Yeah the exhaust manifold bolts are something we've all had to deal with it seems. Changing them out to tubular JBA manifolds and replacing the cast ones is a good idea too and should reduce the stress on the bolts. Have you checked out the other RAM videos on the channel? Would love your feedback on those if you get a chance! Thanks again for the comment on this video! 👍
Not even 40k miles on my 2012 ram and I noticed the leak yesterday on start up. Pretty pissed that it happened. Love my truck but we shouldn't have to deal with this. Thinking maybe a set of shorties and decent hardware will keep it from happening again. Just don't trust the mopar replacement bolts if they already snapped once.... Thanks for the video. Very well done and informative.
Yeah it will just happen again unfortunately over time. I'm actually doing exactly what you mentioned and have JBA headers and Stage 8 stainless steel locking bolts going on next . Also check out a oil catch can if you plan on keeping your truck for awhile. It helps to keep your engine getting gunked up which I show in this video here: ua-cam.com/video/OIZaPA_VwNc/v-deo.html
I got a 2012 with 55k and this happened to me also. 5 months out of warranty. I did it myself. Used the welding trick to get the one out that broke. Should do these out of my house in San Antonio. Make some money but not as much as a dealer
so extreamly helpfull! I have a 2015 5.7 with only 37,000 miles already worried about this does anyone make titanium bolts or something that we will never have to worry again , or a coating to go on the threads like anti seieze or something for the threads ?
Hi, great video! I just finished the passenger side of my 12’ Ram now onto the driver side. I’ve got It going good except the oil dipstick tube! I seen you said it needs to be removed and I see the bolt but I can’t figure out how to get it out and you didn’t elaborate in the video. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks Scott! Disconnect the sensor that is in the way and remove the 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube to the block. Also another bolt holding it to the heatshield. Then just lift it up and rotate it at the same time.
2014 here. I'm having real trouble getting dipstick tube off. Only bolt I can find on the bracket is tucked way down and behind another thick piece of metal. Not enough room to get a socket or even a small wrench on it. I couldn't understand in your video exactly what bolt you were referring to as several silver bolts were in the picture and I couldn't tell what area from already being zoomed in. Any help would be great. Thanks.
I'm curious how do you know so much about many different vehicles that you work on? Did you go to school to learn how to work on cars? I learn so much from watching your videos. Another great learning video for me. Thumbs up. Thanks
Hey Peter thanks for the positive feedback, glad you enjoy the videos! I've always had a passion for motorsports which started with me rebuilding my 2-stroke motocross engines as a racer and then a bunch of shop classes in highschool. I had a lot of fully built turbo Hondas in high school and got screwed over on a $5000 engine build when I was 17 by some crook so I decided if I did it myself and it blew up I could learn at my own expense and it would still be cheaper. Then I built a 700hp Honda S2000 with methanol injection myself and just kept going from there. I also worked in a performance shop doing a ton of high hp builds and its just always been a passion of mine!
Perfect example of why schools should still teach AUTO SHOP! Why did schools eliminate useful classes, and keep basically useless classes like art? I took every shop class I could when in school. Because of that, I am able to do almost everything my self, from auto repairs, to home repairs and remodeling.
I'm on my gf puter Kurt. Its not her in the pic talking. I have to agree with you 100% bro. I have saved myself THOUSANDS of dollars throughout my life working on my own cars and trucks. I took small engines shop class in high school and went from there. As it turned out..Shop class has kept more money in my pocket than any other class taught. Its a shame the younger kids wont have the skill or knowledge to do the simplest of repairs. There are STUCK paying $40-$80 an/hr everytime they needs a brake job or belt and pulley change..etc. Most likely if there young they wont be making $15-$20...they will have to pay someone for working an hour or 2..what it took them ALL day to make. Our schools are failing when they cut back on useful..lifetime lessons.
BoostedMotorsports Another great video you have so many trying to watch them all. When I traded my 14 Ram it had 58,000 kms from what you say was only a matter of time before manifold bolts needed replacing. You made it look easy with the right tools feel like with some patience I could do it.
Great video and explanation on how to do it. My 2012 just started the tick yesterday with only 36k miles on it. Are there after market bolts that won’t allow that to happen again ?
Thanks for the feedback Zach! Glad you found the video helpful! Let me know what you think of the other RAM videos on the channel too when you get a chance! 👍
Just recently bought my 2014 ram 4x4 so i'm still learning all its demons that are common/bound to happen. My question is would replacing the manifolds with shorty headers be a better option to avoid this common issue? I was looking to get headers the moment i got the truck before knowing any of this lol but now i am curious if it will be a better option for when the day comes. Love your videos by the way man been watching a few getting some good info for whenever my truck needs to be worked on you gained a subscriber!
I am getting ready to change out my bolts as well. Thanks so much for the informative video. I do have a question I thought you may be able to help me with. Do you need/replace a gasket at the y-pipe/collector joint? I'm seeing a metal and rubber gasket part listed for my 2014 ram 1500 but didn't hear you mention one. Thanks for the great video! I really enjoy all your videos on the LED work you did.
Yeah thats unfortunately the common bolts to snap Dan. It's always the last 2 bolts closest to the firewall that go. I'm doing headers and stage 8 stainless bolts soon so that I don't have to go through this headache again 😎
Boosted2k Great video buddy. Well done... My 2010 is doing the same thing passengers side. Awesome instruction! Love the GTS. I had a 2002 GTS Final Edition... Loved it! Buying another soon! Looking forward to more videos!
Thanks Will! Not sure why they haven't fixed this issue at the factory yet! Thanks on the Viper! I haven't been making much content on that lately cause nobody seems to watch that stuff. I'd rather make videos and help where it matters which apparently is this damn truck lol
Any way you can describe where the dip stick tube bolt is so I can remove it? It’s really hard to see that part in your video and this is where I’m stuck, can’t figure out how to remove the dip stick.
when I did mine yesterday (passenger side), the manifold was warped. That would be one thing to have have a look at for sure before replacing studs. I'm now thinking about just replacing the studs on the driver's side before something brakes
I just went with stock since the smog laws out here are crazy and they have the studs and nuts for mounting the heatshields as well. I bought them off ebay from a mopar dealer for about $30 shipped per side for all the hardware
Okay I may do the same I do like the heat shield the dealer actually told me to go with arp but I haven't been able to find any stock looking ARP bolts. They don't offer the stud for the heat shield so thanks for the reply though
Yeah you would have to get studs and then modify the heatshields by drilling them out for the larger bolt holes and buying more nuts, etc etc. I didn't feel like going through all that I'll just make sure to change these bolts out again sooner before they snap in the head if I still even have the truck by then! They seem to let go around 80-90k miles on my truck.
I have a 2013 ram 1500 crew cab sport 5.7 hemi,it makes that ticking noise on cold start,but after 30 sec to 1min it goes away,so you think I should wait till 80k then change it?I have 62k on it..
Hey Peter. Personally I would get to it sooner than later. If you already have a ticking noise chances are at least one bolt is broken and the longer you wait the more bolts will snap and will need to be extracted from the head.
BoostedMotorsports Thanks bro I wish you live in Seattle I would drive to your place and help me fix it.lol but yeah I'm going to my friends to help me fix it
Without going through all the comments, I am wondering if you have a preferred bolt type for headers. I just bought a set of shortys for my 2016 and I don’t really want to use the bolts that came with the headers. I don’t mind spending the extra up front so I don’t have to take her back in. (My kids named my truck Ruby). Having the dealer do the work in a few weeks. Ruby and I appreciate you and the videos!! You are a huge help with great advice and a wealth of knowledge!!
Good video I’ve just lived with my tick because every hemi I’ve heard did the same thing so I never investigated it much. now it’s gotten worse I’m finally deciding to do something about it.
The extractor kit you linked looks different than the one you used. I purchased the one you linked but noticed they are for a socket wrench and not sure how to get a bite onto the bolt with the extractor. I am assuming i can lightly tap it in with a hammer then use a socket to remove the broken bolt out?
CLICK HERE FOR A GOOD QUALITY BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR KIT
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CLICK HERE FOR GOOD QUALITY GASKETS
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CLICK HERE FOR NEW STUDS/BOLTS
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BoostedMotorsports hey how did you know it was a manifold issue? My 09 sounds very similar but I’ve heard it could be a camshaft issue
@@ahoymatee1 if you grab the heat shield (wait til it's cold or wear gloves!!)..you will feel it is loose indicating broken studs, also if it is coming from passenger or driver side easily notable from under the truck. A camshaft would be a more central to the motor noise.
The gasket looks like they are correct fit for my 2017 5.7 V8 (according to Amazon part matcher). Are those studs/bolts the correct size for my truck? According to Amazon they won't match my vehicle.
BoostedMotorsports would these studs and bolts from amazon fit my 2014 ram 1500???
Amazon only goes to 2010
Dealer wants $1800++, local shop not much better. You gave me complete confidence that I can do this myself. You even gave me a link to a good quality extractor set - you da man! Your videos are always so well put together. Thank you for doing this, and please keep the content coming!
Great and it proved my inexperienced suspicions on my 2014 hemi. Only thing I would have liked to hear in the video was the start up after repair.
Thanks for the video brother, Now I know exactly what that cold start ticking noise is and most importantly get it fixed. Really appreciate guys like you that take the time to help guys like me that might not know as much. God bless my brother 💪
Glad to help
@@BoostedMotorsports for real man thanks a bunch, it saved me tons of money just by watching, instead of paying someone I did it myself
That "special" bit the guy used to get out your broken extractor bit is called a "rescue bit". It's an extractor bit that is extra hard so that it will even bite into drill bits and broken normal extractor bits. By the way, your video is quite good, and has given me the confidence to try fixing the exact same exhaust leak on my 2011 Ram. The dealer wants $462 per side, and just hell no.
Thanks Bryan! Glad you liked the video and found it helpful! I agree its expensive to have done at the dealer and really they should warranty this or come up with an update as every truck does this....
also know as an easy out. He's right though buy a quality set, use the biggest size for the hole you drill in the stud and push it in by hand and NEVER pound it into the hole... its not necessary. great vid, thx.
@@wastedyears6653 or . Just weld a stud on
Excellent video have ‘17 ram at about 35k had 3 break fortunately under warranty but your assessment of what t being a common problem is dead on!! Never had them break back in the day of original mopar muscle! I think u do the BEST videos of all the mopar stuff I have watched and have used some of your less expensive suggestions it was so easy to do after watching your keep up the GREAT VIDEOS I’m sure many people have benefitted
Use a small torch heat up broken stud. use birthday candle place against the hot broken stud it sucks up the wax in the threads and lubricate will turn easier old machines showed me this trick
Thats an awesome tip!!! 👍👍👍
What an awesome tip!
Eh that doesn't really work. I would say another method is to weld a nut onto the broken stud (for those that have a MIG welder). The heat of welding will expand the steel stud and break the rust bond. The aluminum dissipates heat very quickly so it should come out fairly easily. Also weld won't stick to aluminum. So just hit it a few times to build up a bead and then try to very slowly turn it out.
@@Someguy6571 yeah good luck welding onto the stud that's snapped off below the hole 😂
Umm... you can still weld a bead on to the broken stud even if it’s flush or a little below the hole. Weld won’t stick to aluminum, so if you are good you can still put a bead on the broken stud.
I was able to extract my broken bolts without removing the manifold. I used a left handed drill bit to extract the broken bolts. did Passenger side 5000 miles ago. One finally broke on the driver side. Going to do the driver side this weekend. Dealer wanted 1000.00 to do the job. HATE the dealership. Easy Job. Took more time to take the wheel and inner fender out than it did to replace the studs.
Yep, that's exactly what happened to my truck. It's in the shop right now because we are on vacation and I don't have the necessary tools to do it myself. I do have the extended warranty on the vehicle so it's only going cost me $100 to have them do it. I enjoy your videos, they are very informative and easy to follow. Job well done.
Thanks so much for taking the time to make and post this video. I watched it about 10 times before ripping into my '09 Ram. You made working on the driver's side look so easy. I had both of the rear bolts snapped on the right side...only one was flush with the head. On the left side...what a PITA... both rear bolts were snapped, and I snapped the forward upper one when I went to break it free.
Because of this video, I knew what parts and tools I would need to have on hand, THANK YOU! I drilled out 4 bolts snapped off flush, and used vice grips to get the one that was snapped off flush with the manifold. Did I say you made it look so danged easy? I did go to the Dodge parts counter and buy the stock gaskets with the flange shields, as well as a set of the stainless bolts to put in the rear positions. The part number of the "double ended" stainless bolt is 6509863AA, I used 4.
One more time, thank you! Subscribed!
Thanks Gary I greatly appreciate your support and feedback! It's comments like these that keep me motivated to keep producing content frequently! I know it can be an absolute nightmare getting some of these bolts out which is why if I ever hear the slightest ticking I try to get the bolts replaced right away before more start snapping. I also just posted the 16 spark plug DIY video and have engine oil and 8 speed transmission fluid change videos already on the channel! Let me know what you think of some of the other videos when you get a chance too! 👍
I've done a lot of exhaust manifolds, mostly Ford trucks with broken studs. I Mig weld a nut over the stud then work the nut and stud out together. This only works on aluminum heads.
You make some great easy to follow videos. Just had some BBK shortys installed on my 2010. 3 broken bolts and two cracked manifolds. 117K miles on the truck. Wish I had seen your vids before, would’ve saved me some money. Keep it up, and thanks.
Thanks for the support Todd! Plenty of videos on the way! 😎
Mine just started doing it on cold starts. It only does it for a few seconds. The truck has 23k miles on it too. I was freaking out thinking it was the engine. This video really helped me not freak out! Thankfully its under warranty and the dealer should fix it for free
I've repeatedly read from "those in the know" that milling/planing down the heads to remove the warp is a good idea to help prevent this from happening again. Good video.
So I just did this on my 2012 Ram 1500. Thanks for the great video. One thing that I will add is to check to make sure that your exhaust manifold is level on a flat surface. My truck has 160,000 miles and the driver side manifold was slightly warped. I replaced it with a new one because I think the warped one will just break the bolts again sooner.
Good tip! Yeah like you said if the bolts have been broken for awhile chances are the manifold could be warped too. Good to double check!
Hey, nice video. my 04 1500 ram with 190k is just starting to do the cold start tic. I figured it was the exhaust manifold but haven't diagnosed it yet. I thought when you was drilling out the broken bolt "oh, oh, looks mighty small" then you compounded the problem by using HF tools. So a great tip to tell viewers, a broken stud and you only get one shot at it before more serious problems start. Great video
Thnk you for the detailed video.
It helped me to accurately diagnose the cold startup sound which I initially took to be dry lifters but would last way too long on a cold day.
Today I was able to fix the issue and replace the bolts and broken stud on my 2016 Ram 1500. With your comments and video I was able to plan for the task and get the correct tools to extract the stud broken off flush. I used a tungsten carbide drill bit for the pilot hole and a left-hand cobalt drill bit and extractor to remove the broken off stud.
I also used OEM parts for this. It is worth noting that the front and rear studs are not the same. They have different part numbers and differ in appearance, but only on the 13mm hex face. The rear stud (more likely to break, guess they're made from a stronger material) seem to have a groove in the centre of th hexagon, all around. They're about double the price of the front ones ($8 vs $4) and have a dab of white paint on them when ordered new.
The process went smooth because I knew what to expect and how to execute. This is all made possible by guys like you, enabling the rest of us with your knowledge. Huge thanks!
There should be a mandatory safety recall for the exhaust manifold (hemi tick). After all, an exhaust leak can get into the cab of the truck. When I bought my 1500 2012 Ram I got an extended warranty. The truck is at the dealer now and the exhaust manifold is being repaired for a second time. This is a great video. I'm confused why you used OEM parts when it is OEM parts that are failing. Nonetheless, thanks for the video. When my warranty ends, I'll use the video to repair said item myself.
I'll tell my story to hopefully save someone headaches. Both my exhaust manifold needed to be milled flat, which ran me $104. This took me two weeks because of trial and much error. Busted bolts- I ordered highly flexible long cobalt aircraft drill bits, but they weren't making much of a dent in the bolts broken off in the aluminum heads. I bought a Milwaukee 90 degree drill, then left-handed cobalt drill bits, but still not much of an impact. I broke off an extractor in one bolt, and just gave up on that bolt. Diamond Dremel bits didn't make much of an impact. What did work? I followed the advice of a mechanic on UA-cam who used a Dremel with Pearson Dental M19-2818 points with an Amazon, "No Cry Professional Rotary Tool Kit", which has the flex shaft so you can get behind the frame. Grind into the bolts, then use a bolt extractor. I got the big Irwin set. First one I twisted off, but two others came out.
That's exactly what I'm afraid of!
i had all of them break on my 2015 Ram sport after 100,000km and i took it to the dealer they wanted $1,200 ( Canadian ) to replace the ones on just the drivers side ! so thank you for this video !!!
No problem Tyler glad you found it helpful. I know the dealer tries to overcharge for sure on this! Dodge (RAM) should fix this from the factory!
Tyler Shouldice My Ram dealer replaced both side manifolds, studs, gaskets and shields free of charge. 2010 Ram 1500 5.7L over 120,000 Km and over 7 years old at the time. I contacted FCA on the issue and never had an issue. Not warranty, not recall and not service bulletin. Some sort if customer loyalty thing.
Tyler Shouldice .. . I had my 2013 ram in for cam change at 180k mi, which was covered by my lifetime powertrain warranty... They noticed a slight leak from the header and change the broken stud free of charge which is not covered by the powertrain warranty... It was covered by FCA somehow. I would do like suggested and contact FCA... Or just change it out with this really well Illustrated video as a backup
I drilled and extracted the bolt that broke off on my Dakota 4.7, total pain in the behind. I recently picked up a Ram 1500 and both manifolds were ticking and found both with two broken bolts (flush with block). Haven't welded anything in 35 years but had a small mig welder I bought off amazon a year before and was sitting in the box on the shelf. I watched a few videos and then proceeded to weld nuts to the broken bolts...so much easier than drilling.
Thanks man now I won't have to pay someone else to do it. I was worried it was hard to do or take special tools. You make it look easy enough I'll give it a try. Thanks again man awesome
Thats great David let us know how it goes! When you get a chance check out the other Mopar content on the channel! We have a ton of RAM maintenance, performance, and upgrade videos and are documenting the whole HellRAM truck build here too 🤙
woops - my blunder ...
pertaining to my recent comment below ...
the Dorman part # for the exhaust manifold hardware kit is - 03211 or 03211cd - both will do the job ... fitment is for years '03 to '08 ... these include '9' bolts/studs/nuts and are for either side - to do both will require 2 kits.
Dorman part # [[ 03309 ]] works for a few newer years.
Note - part # 03411 I had listed - is for certain Fords.
Again ... great vid Boosted2k - keep em all comin' !!!
For this job would you also have to replace the gasket seal or no
awesome vid, just checked my 2013 and found last two on passenger side snapped...explains my tick...now the fun part
good video !! very professional !! not one "F" bomb ... I would have to spend more time editing out bad language than actually working ...I appreciated the advice about cheap bits and extractors.. thank you..
Thanks Glenn I appreciate it! Plenty more videos on the way and be sure to check out all the other maintenance and mod videos for our trucks too on this channel 👍
brysoglen Mormon
Agree. Great tutorial. Really appreciate it!
Me to.
A friend of mine, Craig, reminded me of the old solution for rusted bolts (nuts, studs). Carefully heat the offender with a torch then quench with oil. It works. Heat a broken bolt or stud then squirt some oil then use extractors. The heat+oil even makes drilling easier. 🤘Thanks for the upload!
Thanks man you saved me 400 dollars, I did it my self with no experience at all! It was all easy thank you 400 times lol.
Hell yeah thats awesome!!! Let me know what you think of the other videos on this channel too! 😎
@@BoostedMotorsports will do man, thanks.
Dealership wants to charge me $700. I was like, have you ever heard of UA-cam? Thank you @boostedmotorsports
Shit ill give you $100 to do mine
kudos to this video and to your camera person , your information is perfect , and on point ,....my truck also has this issue and judging by the videos and posts on youtube makes me ask " Why doesn't someone make a bolt kit as indestructible as header bolts , instead of replacing with stock style bolts ... because they suck ! "
Thanks for the feedback! Thats true it would be a good idea for someone to make stock style bolts with the tabs for posts for the headshields from a higher grade!
Very nice video! I had a -09 with the same problem, now a new to me 2014 1500 Hemi.. Same problem passenger side.
I live in Sweden so no recalls or good wills here. But still love the truck. Will mount a 6" lift next weekend and 37" wheels! Looking forward to it!
Love your channel!
Thanks for the video, my 2011 just started doing this. I thought at first it was the Hemi tick, but the sound goes away once it's warmed up, just as you showed. Thanks again
I know this is a few years old but taking a nut and building up a weld from the stud to the nut works very well. We do this at my dealership.
Just bought up my 2014 Ram 1500 today. Sweet truck. At what mileage would I start hearing this tick? Will it trigger a check engine light?
Why do so many youtubers think we want to jam out to the backgroud music of an instructional video? I'm 3 minutes in and it is really frustrating to have to keep turning down the volume every time the music comes in only to have to turn it back up so I can hear him speaking. I doubt I'm the only one who did this. I truly appreciate the content, but...seriously...no one give a hairy hoot about your extra-loud intro or background music. Thanks again for the content.
Great video, I use reverse drill bits instead of extractors. The bolts will often back out when you are drilling. Also if you do break an extractor, just weld a nut on the end of the stud and get good penetration and you can use a socket. I have done this even if broken off flush. The steel is not going to melt and bond with the aluminum. I the case of the one you had that broke l, I bet it would back out with a reverse bit and I would heat the aluminum around the bolt and inside that open port
I only use extractors on bolts that I know will spin easy. As soon as you tap it in it expands and locks those threads. If they don't bite either a very light tap, they only make it worse. Could be worse, could be a ford with a busted off spark plug.
thanks man your videos are so informative and every time I have something wrong with my Dodge I always watch your videos I'm currently trying to replace all my exhaust manifold bolts so this video really helps out thanks again
Thanks Josh I appreciate it! Glad the videos are helpful thats my goal! Plenty more on the way 👍😎
I love your videos! Because of this one, I was able to find the ticking I had and fixed it myself. I was lucky! The bolt that broke was on the passenger side and broke off right at the head. I was able to grab it with a pair of vise-grips to take it out. Thanks a bunch! You saved me a bunch of money!
Thanks for the support brother! Glad you were able to fix it and get that bolt out easily! Plenty more videos on the way and posted daily 😎
I have 2012 Ram and this happen to me a about a year ago. Changed out the stock manifolds and installed BBK headers and Stage 8 fasteners. Have not had a problem. Most definitely take out the fend liners. Also remove the steer shaft. Makes it easier.
How long have you had them on? Miles? Still no leaks?
@@jeepin4x4YJ I put them on at 45k and traded in the truck at 93k. Towing a 8500lb RV trailer and drag racing the 1/8 mile on Friday nights. I also changed out the clutch fan and shroud for a V6 one of the same year. great upgrade.
Thanks bud. Thinking of doing this on my 14 ram. 2nd time manifold is leaking and not warranty this time
@@jeepin4x4YJ It will be worth it. Also put a oil catch can. You will be amazed at the amount of oil it catches. The truck was awesome. I bored and stroked it to a 6.7 after the warranty ran out 36k Used an kit from Arrington Performance. It was the biggest kit they had for the 5.7 block. could not put any boost of it though. Traded it in for a Power Wagon. Used car manager and the Service manager test drove it and the Service Manager at the dealer bought it off me.
Did you use ceramic coated ones? Did you wrap them? Did you use the locking pieces for the stage 8 fasteners? Any issues at all after install?
Driver side took me a whole day and passenger side took about 1 hour. You're lucky if the bolt snaps outside of head, then its easier to remove stud. Driver side, i had to weld on a nut to be able to grip it. If it breaks again ill go with shortys but i headd shortys can crack aswell thats why i hesitated to switch to shortys instead. Thanks for the vid brother
Awesome clarity on the video thank you for showing me how easy it was. They wanted 800 at the garage
Got the passenger side done pretty quick. My truck was quiet. If it's not broken=don't fix it. Went to the driver side. Scraped the new gasket and caused a leak after i installed it. Had to go back to the original gasket. Had to switch out 2 times. Not fun.
Things i found out to make it easier.
Pull out the dipstick tube to remove the manifold and cover. The exhaust pipe has a tendency to push the manifold cockeyed when placing it in it. Causing the scraped gasket. Take a piece of 2x4 and place between tranny and exhaust to get the right angle to tighten the manifold bolts.
Good stuff! 🤘
so thats what a non ny/northeast exhaust looks like. very calm after having that traveling bolt extractor make a house call. respect
I must give props, your the coolest mechanic wearing flipflops/sandals (depending on where you from) I've ever seen. Dressed ready to go to the beach on the fly. Lol
Nice video again.
Thanks
Hahah thanks brother! I'm just keeping it real and making some videos on my days off! 🤣
Every time something breaks always go with an upgrade for the fix. Or you will just be back at square one all over again. This is a great excuse to chuck those manifolds for headers.
Much easier job on the 2wd. My 04 4x4 is a little harder with the shock towers right where you need to work. Also the couple minutes it takes to disconnect the steering shaft and get it out of the way is worth it.
Good video.
I agree! We upgraded the manifolds shortly after this as well as the bolts 👍😎
Good idea. Hey if they use trash at the factory. When it breaks find the next best thing.
I find it reduces how much I have to think about in life.
Good video.
Be sure to check out the other RAM Maintenance, Upgrade, and Performance videos on this channel! We are also working on project HellRAM and supercharging this 100k mile truck and documenting the full build on the channel 👍👍👍
BoostedMotorsports where did you buy the OEM bolts?
The bits your refering to are called "cobalt" bits. They are about 2 to 3 times the price of regular black oxide or titanium bits. They have the hardness to bite through the case hardening that those studs are made of. You can buy the bits at any Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards
I have read in the RAM forum that the header actually warp. have any of you guys put a straight edge on them to see If they are warped?
Yeah this is true. Definitely check it when you have it apart. We switched these out for shorty headers shortly after
Have the ticking on passenger side nice video now i know what to do im on it keep it coming man great job
This video is exactly why I bought the lifetime warranty with Chrysler. I’m pretty good at working on vehicles, but you make it look so easy. I would not try to tackle this, I would do more harm than good.🤦🏼♂️ I love this channel!👍🏻
thanks, I just assumed it was a sticking lifter. I've got an 04 that has been doing it for a long time now. I'll fix it when I get into the header gasket work.
My 2013 Tradesman is in the shop for this with 46k miles. Your points are awesome! Suck this is going to be a problem every 3 years. Damn Tick sound like a lifters or something worse.
Try that here in the Northeast rust belt. doing my 01 5.9 Ram. The fender and steel liner are welded together so had to remove as single unit. Two center studs snapped off in block. Grade 8 studs so forget about drilling them. Had to weld a nut to them. Cast iron heads so no worry about the weld sticking to the block. I laid a straight edge across the manifold ports and the center ports do not lay on the same plane as the two outer. too low. ordered new one. hope it's better. Crap is made in China so I'm not getting my hopes up. Also noticed that the gasket was pretty much gone. (Fel-Pro). Lasted two years. Ordered some Edelbrocks composite.
My 2017 RAM 1500 with 14k miles just started to make this same exact noise on the passenger side. Going to take it to the dealership to see if they fix it. Thanks for the video.
good to hear back from ya Boost ... wish i could've done an edit to the 1st comment to simply change the kit part #'s and also add that the 'measly $10 cost for the hardware kit' happened to be for the 03411 Ford kit ... the 03211 kit for these Rams is notta anywheres near that cheap ... its more like $35 ... ges they know they'll make a killin cuz they surely sell alot more of em ! (lol) ... i did one of these for a friend in need also using the Mopar kit but its been a year or so & forget how much it was or a part # for it but anyone in need could probably just call any dealer for the info ... the one i did then was an '04 that had the rears sheared on the passenger side ... gasket was ok - replaced it anyways with a Felpro.
Hava great year my friend !
Thanks for the support! I ended up getting the whole mopar bolt set off a dealer that puts together a kit on eBay for about $30 per side.
You know you did a good job when you make it look easy thanks for this video
Hats off bro that was a good video. The only thing I would have done differently is instead of drilling and using an extractor I would have plug welded a nut over the broken stud. If you have access to a MIG welder and basic welding skills this is much easier and much faster. I have even done this when the stud is broken off below the surface of the head. The weld being mild steel and the head being aluminum as in this case or cast iron in others won't stick to the head. Try it next time. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mark! Yeah I've seen that method and it definitely looks much easier! I didn't have access to a welder with the truck in the driveway but I completely agree its a quick easy method and beats this drilling nonsense if you can!
Chili really help me answer the question I've been trying to figure out for a while the Hemi tick where's it coming from
Thanks for this video. My local speed shop told me I have an exhaust manifold leak on my driver's side (2019 RAM 1500, DT), but I don't hear *any ticking??? Thanks to your video, I know I don't hear anything out of the ordinary! I wonder if they're lying to me (hmm?)?! Again, many thanks...
Great video! That one extractor that broke did not look centered on the broken bolt may be the reason it broke ,it's happened to me.
i was off-roading in my 2016 ram 1500 big horn 4x4 and one of mine snapped I was actually able to see it today and now i get to change mine at 57k miles
Great video I think I have same issue. How much did they charge to come out and remove the broken bolt and extractor
Next time you do this it would be good to check the manifolds to see if there was any warpage, that is usually what causes the bolts to break. Thanks for the video.
great video, but how do you not show us that the ticking noise is gone at the end? Or did I miss it somewhere?
Just sounds stock and no ticking after 😎
Great job,especially without the benefit of a lift.👏👏👏👏
Great job on the installation, I followed step by step and I just followed along! Mine were on the passenger side! Thank you!
Hell yeah thats awesome man! Glad to hear it worked out! Let me know what you think of the other RAM videos on here too!
Very well done video ...
and after scrolling down to the end of this lengthy read - do apologize for takin' up 1/2 a webpage here ! (lol)
There is a kit I've come across and used for this ...
'Dorman Manufacturing' (who supplies the vast majority of aftermarket replacement parts to out-the-door parts counter vendors) ... [[ 'Exhaust Manifold Mount Kit' - 03411 - comes with 10 studs/nuts ]] - U can pick this kit up for a mere $10 ... (note this referenced part # may not be the same at every vendor u possibly encounter and only know it fits 5.7L's with the same manifold configuration possibly not all 5.7L Hemi's ) ... Dormans kit is sufficiently the same quality thou not better than original Mopar - your choice) ... as for the gaskets (if u would decide to replace) range from $20-40 ... normally my 'go to' choice is 'Felpro' for this project - (again 'your choice') then as 'Booster2k' admits to saving a few bucks here n there - (no issue again 'your choice') since most of the time it's a bolt/stud issue.
The rest of this comment is aimed to those that have become a victim of this same issue - the same apparent FAIL and where to place "blame" !
A well-known FAIL since Chrysler dealers, alot of mechanics, and of course alot of Ram owners all over the country have faced this very same issue at some point in time - BUT is it an engineering FAIL or otherwise .....
Is the main issue here to do with "exhaust manifold design", "faulty exhaust fasteners", maybe even "exhaust hanger design" ...
in this instance seemingly all 3 are culprits to some point in breeding this unavoidable issue with a 5.7L Hemi in any Ram no matter what year and will eventually succumb to this dreadful exhaust leak issue ... thou is it due to a poor design in engineering from the ground level at Chrysler - (the engine itself being without issue).
Normally an issue is born either by an error or once a "retrofit" takes place ... in this instance - (to make it fit / make it work) in a chassis 'final' design beit all marketed factory chassis' ... all deemed ok to go except for one thing - the exhaust manifolds ... so back to engineers it goes - biggest obstacle (best flow and best fitment) AND both within a timeline ... promptly arrived in the flow dept. thou lacking in fitment to all chassis' due to insufficient time to market - ok quite a possiblity but possibly not.
Now let's move on to whose dept. is it to get the "weight" handled - the weight of the entire exhaust system which is spread out beneath the chassis ... where oh where to install "hangers" - we all know if a hanger fails what holds the weight - well alot of that gets transferred to the exhaust manifold itself correct? Are most bolts/studs that are found broken or loose toward the rear or at front and which side are they mostly found? Is factory hanger placement involved? Is it worn hanger (stretched rubber) involved?
Weakened bolts/studs due to heat cycling? Thou as it seems a Chrysler engineering FAIL to allow it to continue BUT there is another point that comes into play here - could it be this ... ( #4 ).
Could it be just plain "torque" (no no - not bolt torque here ... "ENGINE TORQUE").
I'd say all of the above thou one big aspect of the issue becomes very apparent - all have to do with TIME and USE ... and that word "torque" and what it describes keeps on poppin' up ... OK who doesnt every now n then "mash the gas" ... beit hardly ever or more often than not - (of course U will because that's more than most a reason why u have a Hemi ... well torque causes "twist" ... constant twisting and flexing is how this issue 'can' slowly develop ... when the engine TWISTS due to torque the chassis doesn't want to give - hence where does that twist get transferred to - OUCH ! AND over a period of time that's alot of twistin' action ! Then again - hey what about engine mounts? They play a major role in handling this - (well it seems they do their job well in this case and pass it on somewhere else).
Are there stronger bolts/studs - possibly ... then why does Chrysler not use them ... heheheheh - they do ! IF the bolt/studs would not fail at some point (remember the head is aluminum) where do ya think the twist force would then be tranferred to??? OUCH !!! Then why not are other hi-output torque twisters out there prone to this same issue ... some do some don't ... do others approach the 100k mileage barrier and beyond in time ???
We just have a sure fire winner here in the 5.7L Hemi in a Dodge Ram ... so is it all a Chrysler FAIL ???
Where to place blame is to where it has been spread thru out the course of time and periods of usage.
Long live the HEMI !!!
wow thanks for the lengthy response! lol
Yeah I do believe some twist/flex could play a factor. The other reason is that the catalytic converters are VERY close to that last exhaust port and the bolts are usually pretty cooked looking on those last cylinders so having that high heat backed up these definitely doesn't help the problem either.
Just keep an eye out for which model year you have and which kit you get cause there are some changes to the heat-shield and bolt/studs over the different years.
I have a 2012 Dodge Ram and I love what you're doing with yours... especially the hellcat wheels... I'm having the same problem with the manifold I'm planning to swap them out but I was wondering if the replacement bolts are better than the ones that the truck comes with?
Man I have a huge burnt oil smell once the truck is hot and I'm parked it at stopped at a light. Idk what it is but I'm guessing it's a oil leak that's dripping down into the exhaust and makes it burn any idea what it could be ?
I have a 2013 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. The truck has 40,200 miles and just had the manifolds (warped) and bolts replaced. Cost almost $1200 with no guarantee it won't happen again. Man, it's been a good truck but that problem is expensive.
Yeah the exhaust manifold bolts are something we've all had to deal with it seems. Changing them out to tubular JBA manifolds and replacing the cast ones is a good idea too and should reduce the stress on the bolts. Have you checked out the other RAM videos on the channel? Would love your feedback on those if you get a chance! Thanks again for the comment on this video! 👍
Not even 40k miles on my 2012 ram and I noticed the leak yesterday on start up. Pretty pissed that it happened. Love my truck but we shouldn't have to deal with this. Thinking maybe a set of shorties and decent hardware will keep it from happening again. Just don't trust the mopar replacement bolts if they already snapped once.... Thanks for the video. Very well done and informative.
Yeah it will just happen again unfortunately over time. I'm actually doing exactly what you mentioned and have JBA headers and Stage 8 stainless steel locking bolts going on next . Also check out a oil catch can if you plan on keeping your truck for awhile. It helps to keep your engine getting gunked up which I show in this video here:
ua-cam.com/video/OIZaPA_VwNc/v-deo.html
I got a 2012 with 55k and this happened to me also. 5 months out of warranty. I did it myself. Used the welding trick to get the one out that broke. Should do these out of my house in San Antonio. Make some money but not as much as a dealer
Joe Gest I live in san Antonio also just bought a ram 1500 I hope mines doesn't give me problems for a while
keep my name and maybe we can work out a deal to get them done if it happens
Joe Gest will do man I'll message ya thanks
so extreamly helpfull! I have a 2015 5.7 with only 37,000 miles already worried about this does anyone make titanium bolts or something that we will never have to worry again , or a coating to go on the threads like anti seieze or something for the threads ?
Mine just started doing this, thankyou for including the sound clip example man!
No problem brother! Hope it helps! Check out the other RAM videos on the channel too when you get a chance! 👍
Hi, great video! I just finished the passenger side of my 12’ Ram now onto the driver side. I’ve got It going good except the oil dipstick tube! I seen you said it needs to be removed and I see the bolt but I can’t figure out how to get it out and you didn’t elaborate in the video. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks Scott! Disconnect the sensor that is in the way and remove the 10mm bolt holding the dipstick tube to the block. Also another bolt holding it to the heatshield. Then just lift it up and rotate it at the same time.
Mine just started the other day. Happy I came upon this video!
Thanks Charles! Its pretty common unfortunately but hopefully this video helps you fix it! 😎
Your videos are awesome!!!
Excellent video. Going to do my passenger side myself shortly as it just started. Had the place I got my truck (used) do the drivers side already.
Thanks! Let us know how it goes! 😎
2014 here. I'm having real trouble getting dipstick tube off. Only bolt I can find on the bracket is tucked way down and behind another thick piece of metal. Not enough room to get a socket or even a small wrench on it. I couldn't understand in your video exactly what bolt you were referring to as several silver bolts were in the picture and I couldn't tell what area from already being zoomed in. Any help would be great. Thanks.
I'm curious how do you know so much about many different vehicles that you work on? Did you go to school to learn how to work on cars? I learn so much from watching your videos. Another great learning video for me. Thumbs up. Thanks
Hey Peter thanks for the positive feedback, glad you enjoy the videos! I've always had a passion for motorsports which started with me rebuilding my 2-stroke motocross engines as a racer and then a bunch of shop classes in highschool. I had a lot of fully built turbo Hondas in high school and got screwed over on a $5000 engine build when I was 17 by some crook so I decided if I did it myself and it blew up I could learn at my own expense and it would still be cheaper.
Then I built a 700hp Honda S2000 with methanol injection myself and just kept going from there. I also worked in a performance shop doing a ton of high hp builds and its just always been a passion of mine!
Perfect example of why schools should still teach AUTO SHOP! Why did schools eliminate useful classes, and keep basically useless classes like art? I took every shop class I could when in school. Because of that, I am able to do almost everything my self, from auto repairs, to home repairs and remodeling.
I'm on my gf puter Kurt. Its not her in the pic talking. I have to agree with you 100% bro. I have saved myself THOUSANDS of dollars throughout my life working on my own cars and trucks. I took small engines shop class in high school and went from there. As it turned out..Shop class has kept more money in my pocket than any other class taught. Its a shame the younger kids wont have the skill or knowledge to do the simplest of repairs. There are STUCK paying $40-$80 an/hr everytime they needs a brake job or belt and pulley change..etc. Most likely if there young they wont be making $15-$20...they will have to pay someone for working an hour or 2..what it took them ALL day to make. Our schools are failing when they cut back on useful..lifetime lessons.
BoostedMotorsports Another great video you have so many trying to watch them all. When I traded my 14 Ram it had 58,000 kms from what you say was only a matter of time before manifold bolts needed replacing. You made it look easy with the right tools feel like with some patience I could do it.
Great video and explanation on how to do it. My 2012 just started the tick yesterday with only 36k miles on it. Are there after market bolts that won’t allow that to happen again ?
You can also replace studs and bolts without removing the manifold if none are broken. Great vid if they are broken.
For sure! That would be preferable for sure 😎
I really appreciate the video man i watched it and did this all myself probably saved a shit ton of money.
Thanks for the feedback Zach! Glad you found the video helpful! Let me know what you think of the other RAM videos on the channel too when you get a chance! 👍
Great job explaining everything, but wouldn’t the the factory bolts break just as easily?
Was thinking the exact same thing. Isn't there an after market bolt that would do better?
Super clear and well recorded. Thank you
Thanks Duncan!
Just recently bought my 2014 ram 4x4 so i'm still learning all its demons that are common/bound to happen. My question is would replacing the manifolds with shorty headers be a better option to avoid this common issue? I was looking to get headers the moment i got the truck before knowing any of this lol but now i am curious if it will be a better option for when the day comes. Love your videos by the way man been watching a few getting some good info for whenever my truck needs to be worked on you gained a subscriber!
Any ideas on how to make get the oil dip stick bolt out
I am getting ready to change out my bolts as well. Thanks so much for the informative video. I do have a question I thought you may be able to help me with. Do you need/replace a gasket at the y-pipe/collector joint? I'm seeing a metal and rubber gasket part listed for my 2014 ram 1500 but didn't hear you mention one. Thanks for the great video! I really enjoy all your videos on the LED work you did.
Good video but my 2016 ram dipstick tube bolt is hidden behind some big main bracket. How did you get that out?
Awesome video. I noticed my heat shields are loose on both sides closest to the firewall. Now I wonder if the bolts are broke.
Yeah thats unfortunately the common bolts to snap Dan. It's always the last 2 bolts closest to the firewall that go. I'm doing headers and stage 8 stainless bolts soon so that I don't have to go through this headache again 😎
What brand of extracter kit broke that you used from harbor freight?
Boosted2k Great video buddy. Well done... My 2010 is doing the same thing passengers side. Awesome instruction! Love the GTS. I had a 2002 GTS Final Edition... Loved it! Buying another soon! Looking forward to more videos!
Thanks Will! Not sure why they haven't fixed this issue at the factory yet! Thanks on the Viper! I haven't been making much content on that lately cause nobody seems to watch that stuff. I'd rather make videos and help where it matters which apparently is this damn truck lol
Boosted2k when you replaced the header bolts did you replace the gaskets as well
Any way you can describe where the dip stick tube bolt is so I can remove it? It’s really hard to see that part in your video and this is where I’m stuck, can’t figure out how to remove the dip stick.
It’s down by the knock sensor on the block 👍
when I did mine yesterday (passenger side), the manifold was warped. That would be one thing to have have a look at for sure before replacing studs. I'm now thinking about just replacing the studs on the driver's side before something brakes
Yeah thats another issue!
Thanks for the video, I'm glad that you showed that you actually broke the extractor. Thank you! What company did you call to get that out?
What manifold bolts did you go with did you go back to stock bolts or did you go with quality aftermarket bolts and where did you get them?
I just went with stock since the smog laws out here are crazy and they have the studs and nuts for mounting the heatshields as well. I bought them off ebay from a mopar dealer for about $30 shipped per side for all the hardware
Okay I may do the same I do like the heat shield the dealer actually told me to go with arp but I haven't been able to find any stock looking ARP bolts. They don't offer the stud for the heat shield so thanks for the reply though
Yeah you would have to get studs and then modify the heatshields by drilling them out for the larger bolt holes and buying more nuts, etc etc. I didn't feel like going through all that I'll just make sure to change these bolts out again sooner before they snap in the head if I still even have the truck by then! They seem to let go around 80-90k miles on my truck.
How and what type of tool did you use to get the dipstick tube out?
I have a 2013 ram 1500 crew cab sport 5.7 hemi,it makes that ticking noise on cold start,but after 30 sec to 1min it goes away,so you think I should wait till 80k then change it?I have 62k on it..
Hey Peter. Personally I would get to it sooner than later. If you already have a ticking noise chances are at least one bolt is broken and the longer you wait the more bolts will snap and will need to be extracted from the head.
BoostedMotorsports
Thanks bro I wish you live in Seattle I would drive to your place and help me fix it.lol but yeah I'm going to my friends to help me fix it
Can you send me the link to bye the bolts please thanks
Very awesome and through video, I need to take care of driver's side, it is sounding horrible
Without going through all the comments, I am wondering if you have a preferred bolt type for headers. I just bought a set of shortys for my 2016 and I don’t really want to use the bolts that came with the headers. I don’t mind spending the extra up front so I don’t have to take her back in. (My kids named my truck Ruby). Having the dealer do the work in a few weeks.
Ruby and I appreciate you and the videos!! You are a huge help with great advice and a wealth of knowledge!!
Please disregard- I found your header replacement video and for my answers!! You rock!!
Good video I’ve just lived with my tick because every hemi I’ve heard did the same thing so I never investigated it much. now it’s gotten worse I’m finally deciding to do something about it.
Yeah its not a fun job but helps to know what the issue is! Thanks for your support on the channel! 👍😎
The extractor kit you linked looks different than the one you used. I purchased the one you linked but noticed they are for a socket wrench and not sure how to get a bite onto the bolt with the extractor. I am assuming i can lightly tap it in with a hammer then use a socket to remove the broken bolt out?
What did you use to extract the sheered off bolt that was still in the engine block? Like where could I buy the exact bit and what is the name of it?
Just search "bolt extractor" or "screw extractor" on google or amazon. Don't buy a cheap one though or it might snap like mine did 🤣
Great job with explanation including what you encountered during