Try this Exercise! Power Endurance Training for Climbing
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2023
- Boulder Triples is one of our favourite power endurance sessions. Its super effective training for both bouldering and sport climbing as it allows many progressions into more performance focused sessions and drives development of the essential strength and endurance asset; anaerobic capacity.
In this video we go through the basic structure, set reps and intensity. But also go through the common mistakes that makes this session fall short of the mark, or that leaves you struggling to find the right boulders. With this session, you are sure to make some lasting gains in your climbing.
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I've tried this exercise several times and it is indeed VERY hard to get the intensity right. I've never really felt like I get much out of it so this is a very welcome video!
Intensity is the main issue. Hopefully this helps, because it's a great session :)
I agree!
I find it easier to get the correct level if I use already topped projects. That way it's all about the endurance and not figuring out any beta.
that was one of my main issues, I always picked a really easy boulder for me, or a really hard one -.-. Probably just bad setters in my gym.
Great video!
I had these prescribed in my lattice training plan, but I didn't know what exactly to do - the description was a bit vague.
I'm looking forward to hitting the wall!
For my power endurance training, I like doing 3-limb/paraclimb training on autobelay on routes ~4 grades below my max (5.7 - 5.9). Rest 0-3 minutes between climbs until I haven't quite caught my breath yet. For these, I try to climb more dynamic and powerfully rather than technical and efficient.
It‘s hard to have this exercise in your plan but it definitely pays off. Got to love the boulder triples in my plan 😍💪🏼
Thank you
I did tbis and had such fun. I did it a bit different by giving myself a number of options to climb and if I was feeling like I was too tired I would do one of the easier problems also was fun to do different routes instead of the same problem 3x.
I would like to see a video about 3x4 aeróbic base (aeróbic capacity protocol) cause i Really don’t understand at all. Thank you guys you’re awesome!!
Thanks for the tip!
Happy to help! :)
I would be interested in drills to train/focus on body tension throughout the whole chain. Thanks for bringing on the quality training content 🤙
i second this
until you get a more qualified answer from lattice, bouldering on steep terrain with small footholds is a good way to start. the kilterboard also works very well ✌🏼
Summary was generated by Summatim, let us know if there are any inaccuracies! 🤖
0:01: Introduction
0:39: Choosing the Right Boulder
1:29: Finding the Right Intensity
2:16: Being Specific in Training
3:16: Using a Wooden Board
4:36: Using a Circuit Board or Route
5:40: Pacing and Training Load
6:34: Summary
This is wild. Good bot
Wowza is this fake it real?!
I sometimes do a couple of easy boulders one after the other at the end of my bouldering session. I try to do them with good form which can be quite hard when I'm already really fatigued. I'm like on a V5/V6 level and I've been destroyed enough to fall off a V3 or easier because I just couldn't actually close my hands any more...
Why is it not as good what I'm doing?
Great, I do this a lot. Can you do the Style Triads next please? 😊
How often do you recommend incorporating this drill into our sessions? Is this something I could be doing 2-3 times a week, or should I keep it to one session only?
I was wondering what else you could add with this exercise to make a full session. I've heard it is not recommended to work on both the max strength and the endurance in a single session. So no limit bouldering before this exercise right ?
Yes. For most this is really good advice. It's too much to combine and the second session suffers quality, and the energy systems interfere with each other. However some very well trained athletes may combine in these but are likely to schedule in a way that prioritises one over the other.
What app was being used for the timer?
Lattice Training App 😊
can something similar to this be done by top roping since routes are longer? even doing a top roping problem 2x times back to back
Yes, this is what I do. With regards to intensity, I tend to go for a pretty easy route with only slight overhang. I have a ~6c+ flash grade in our gym for top rope, and when I want to try this exercise I tend to pick a 5B-6A range and do it 3x. Same applies, usually when I start that third time I am dreading it :D It sucks so much, but it's my weakness so I really should do it.
This is good training but its going to be quite far from the intension of this session, so it won't be a substitution. The intensity of Boulder Triples session is very high. You'll likely be failing/falling after just 18-20 moves in a single set, and you'll have had intermittent rests (2x 1min) to make it that far. If you are doing back-to-back routes on top rope, the chances are you'll be doing more like 60 moves with no rest. So the intensity is much lower and this will have a much greater dependency on the aerobic energy system. A great session with different aims, but not similar to what we've described in the video.
To do something similar an a route, pick a project simialr to your max redpoint. Break it down into 3 sections (of 8-10 moves) and climb the route resting 1 minute between each section. You should be maxing out in the final section/top of the climb.
@@LatticeTraining thanks for the explanation!
Make 4x4 Great Again and add them to the Crimpd :)
Close captioning kept saying power rangers instead of power endurance and I'm not mad 😅
Doesn't it make more sense to do this on a standardized board
A good option if you have one. But not always the best option. It comes down to what the climber needs. A board is usually the easiest to control the intensity.
no captions very lame
So basically 4x4s and circuit training. Nothing new here.
The intention of this session is building anaerobic capacity. The rest in between boulders is important and the aim is to 'power out' in 8 moves or less. 4x4s have little to no rest between boulders, and the intensity would be quite a bit lower as a result. The outcome being an aerobic power session and we would not suggest these sessions could be substituted. So I guess we'll have to agree to disagree 😊
@@LatticeTraining so 4x4s with a few seconds more rest or harder circuits. Not selling me here.
@@danielmacdonough5297 At a glance I can see why they might seem similar. 4x4 = approx. 5s rest (or less), Boulder Triples = 60s rest. So 55 more seconds, or x11 more rest, between boulders. The energy system use is very different if done correctly.
If you are able to do the same boulder problem in a 4x4 as prescribed here and the boulder triples it’s likely you have an intensity level problem. The boulder triples intensity level should be much higher than a 4x4.
@@LatticeTraining Discussing here since the topic has been raised. I fail to understand why triples is anaerobic and 4*4 is aerobic ? I would argue that triples is more about endurance, and 4*4 is more about "actually" power endurance. I would even say that both are still anaerobic sessions, with 4*4 being more focused on pure power endurance and tirples being more about endurance.
To me, power endurance=ability to maintain an anareobic regime for as much as you can and endurance=recover capacity. We need both in climbing.
Btw, i get the sense that most if not the vast majority of exercises or sessions labelled as "power endurance" are in reality more endurance oriented, since they usually offer you very long rests in between reps (triples, circuits training with 5min rest, long hangs with long recover), whereas 4*4 or 7-3 repeaters "up to failure" really makes you go deep in power endurance.
Your thoughts on that ?