The TOP Training Mistake 90% of Climbers Make // Tom Randall of Lattice Training
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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Where is my Rest Muscle and How do I Train it?
rotaror cuff, hamstrings, rhomboids, …..
Love how teams like Lattice and Hooper's Beta have been applying sports science to climbing
I think we're going to see a massive jump in the level of performance in the next 5-10 years as we see teen/young adult athletes reach the current peak of performance at younger and younger ages. Then they'll start to push things beyond current boundaries
Not only is the genetic pool of climbers growing, but the earlier they learn to apply exercise science, the higher their potential becomes
If you're also interested in sport psychology applied to climbing, I do that as well! 🙌
I'm a new climber, (just did my first V4!), so I'm currently absorbing as much climbing content as I can. Thank you for adding your voice to the youtube mix with these excellent videos!
Finally someone explaining the difference between overreaching and overtraining! Great content and great channel!❤
what is always curious about folks who have been on for training for a longer mesocycle is the hesitance to significantly recover before a trip. As Tom said, climbers may find onloading into a new training period to be a little more rough, and on a trip the first or second day of climbing you may not feel prepared, but after this you have a significant capacity. Long rests really do work for objectives.
Such a simple but so painfully important lesson. As someone who is currently recovering from one of the more catastrophic overtraining injuries a climber could get (full distal biceps tendon tear), let me tell you, you can't even imagine how much shit can break until it happens. Going that little bit harder every session, skipping that rest day every once in a while, is going to make you so little stronger, compared to how much weaker you'll be injured :D
@@thestruggleclimbingshow Thanks, I'll look into some BFR training. Recovery is going well (I guess). Slowly getting get to where I was prior to the injury, but the biggest focus remains monitoring tendon health and self-restriction.
I am 50, obligation for rest is my biggest frustration actually, I cannot climb as much I would like, even more when I push too much in some boulder sessions. Getting older makes a crazy difference, it is hard to stay home and wait but I noticed I tend to come back stronger with frequent pauses and over all I have more fun when I climb.
I'm over 60. If I boulder hard more than 3 times a fortnight I build up fatigue. However, I have discovered that weightlifting doesn't actually interfere with recovery in between climbing sessions as much as I thought.
Thank you so much for this video, this is the best advice I've never had for my climb.
I was struggling with so much annoying injuries recently, I applied the 3 weeks load/1 deload.
6 month later now, all my injuries disappeared and I when from V5 to V7.
Amazing to hear!! I have a hard time resting as well… but always feel better after a deload. We need to give ourselves time to realize the adaptations! Congrats on the progress 💪🙌
Great channel. Love the videos. Rest is always tricky for me, but I’ve seen the gains so I now look at it as passive training if that makes sense. Just because I’m resting, it doesn’t mean my body isn’t strengthening itself.
It's very interesting, I've come into this as someone who is into running, bodybuilding, powerlifting, calisthenics.
It's very interesting the common language, bodybuilding gets a lot of flak as being useless and dangerous. Which some aspects of it is but we never would have learned so much about structuring training and how to exercise muscles, recovery, all of that. Many sports have been improved as a result.
I got myself injured recently and it might've been because I've been training too much. Bummer, because I was really trying to put in these rest weeks once a month, but I guess I needed more than that. Like you mentioned, general life stress is also a big factor. I found it hard to really not climb at all because of commitments I had (a technique class, finally some good weather to go outside, etc.). But in general, the 3:1 works well for me as a female. My body will tell me anyway.
🗽 Thank you, that was a very good hint! I always did nearly no deloading, so I got sick 3 times in last winter... 🙏
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Thank you for this incredibly insightful video!
Well interesting, about the deload weeks.
Thank you Sam
Another fantastic video!!
Here from Are you the One season 3, lets go Ryan 💥
Very helpful info, thanks!
🙌🙌
long story short; i'm doing everything wrong lol
great video
Great video, Ryan!
sitting here with messed up wrists having to rest for like six months :(
Amazing vid
But I don’t want to climb less
Biggest mistake is getting a lattice program
this click bait title is absolutely unethical in the context of training advice.
@@thestruggleclimbingshow In the first 30 seconds of the video Tom Randall says "90% of climbers do not fully understand the importance of rest." So the question in the title seems to be answered with "the mistake 90% of climbers make is not resting enough." So the title seems to be suggesting that you most likely need to rest more. That claim isn't true, nor is it what Tom is suggesting. A more accurate title might be "90% of climbers don't understand this//" but I'm obviously not the algorithm guru here.
To call such a small wordplay change unethical seems like a stretch but I think the title is probably what has the most staying power in my mind when remembering the information presented. Bad advice in the title seems more important