Yep. You are not the only one having that situation with the bigger crank pulley. I just installed the 190mm and everything has worked perfect. Mine is a CREC Evo motor. Very nice channel!
Hey brother, love your channel. You're a big contributor to the 3.0t community as well as the A6C7 folks. Your contributions are appreciated as are you. As far as the bolt, see if you can drill (reverse bit) with a spline extractor to get those bolts out. This is worrying.
Thanks man, appreciate the support👍As far as the bolts all came out easy except 2 that I had to drill a little to get a screw driver in and turn them out pretty easy.
Great video to document the issue with 207mm pulleys. I’ve been saying that the issue with a 207 is creating too much centripetal force and the 12.9 bolt are not enough . It’s more common on 6mt with a light fly wheel . I performed a 207 install on my buddies six speed manual transmission S4 and within 1000 miles of testing the bolt sheared off . When I first posted it online I was blamed for user install. I ignored it and let the Internet talk , I knew that the install was incorrect as this was my first install Nor a n00b with this platform . The second time I installed it I actually documented it via video as far as talking it and adding loctie per instruction . And again within a few thousand miles the bolt sheared off again. lastly, I decided and convinced him to go with a dual pulley system (190mm) and that solved the problem . no more bolt failure. Jay from jbx makes APR bolts which will not shear if you still wanna use the 207
@@cmidas3396 Yes, they are very strong and the Internet and phones will give you shit and tell you it was user error , over or under torqued etc. I know there is some cases where it is user error, but I said I’m not new to the game. It’s more coming on the manual transmissions with a light fly wheel . But if you search under the boards or groups, you’ll see plenty of room, but I’ve been shared off completely.
@@rorod3123 Wow, thanks for the info. I guess I'll order the JBX bokts and replace them one by one so I don't have to take the belt and everything off.
I don't think the water theory is what snapped your bolt... That much water would likely just make the belt slip if there was that much resistance. I think what is more likely is one of these two situations: If you're oem crank bolt was used, then re-torquing it after installing the 207 probably weakened it & caused it to fail over time Or If they were new, maybe they weren't torqued correctly? Not trying to dog on your install or anything, but crank pulley bolts on the 3.0t have a history of failure with improper torque. Glad you caught it though! Big save.
Yeah I hear you but I torqued them the first time and I noticed the noise started directly after driving through the deep water. The belt might've slipped but the pulley would've still have been turning and got some resistance from being submerged also I did get on it once I realized how deep the water was but yeah just a theory. I actually went back over the bolts again this time and did 23ft lbs and made sure I ran them all up (walked the dog) a few times afterwards so hopefully no more issues. I'll check them again in about a week or so.
@@cmidas3396 I’m thinking the same brother. The speed the pulley runs will act like a propeller and will create massive amounts or torque on the bolts. Whatever the case, you’ve had a close call and have done a brilliant job of fixing your A6!
@@AudiC7Owners I actually used one of the supplied bolts the first time and it broke but three of the originals remained. New to me though is quite a bit of people have commented to me that it's been happening with the supplied bolts on other pullies also and that it's more prevalent on 6mt cars. They brought to my attention that JXB has ARP bolts to adress the issue. Have you heard about that?
Yeah and if the propeller theory is correct then also the car moving forward with the pulley trying to propell water back the opposite way from it would have put even more stress on it. I think that's what happened because the pulley didn't have marks from the bolts being shot out if it happened with no water and nothing else like the radiator got damaged.
You can try not over torquing your crank bolts when you install the new pulley. The after market pulley will have different torque max than factory because the after market part is different forging, also that’s why they send you new bolts, they have a different hardness as well. NO PROPELLERS!!! Your Audi is fast but it’s not going to fly away! Lol 😂
You stay in your place big bro 😁 I toqued to the supplied specs but now people are letting me know it's a common issue with the bigger pullies but more prevalent on manual trans cars with lightweight pullies and that there's a company that sales much stronger APR bolts to address the issue so I'm gonna go that route because I'm planning on having a lot of fun with it this sumner 😎
Yep. You are not the only one having that situation with the bigger crank pulley. I just installed the 190mm and everything has worked perfect. Mine is a CREC Evo motor. Very nice channel!
Hey brother, love your channel. You're a big contributor to the 3.0t community as well as the A6C7 folks. Your contributions are appreciated as are you. As far as the bolt, see if you can drill (reverse bit) with a spline extractor to get those bolts out. This is worrying.
Thanks man, appreciate the support👍As far as the bolts all came out easy except 2 that I had to drill a little to get a screw driver in and turn them out pretty easy.
Great video to document the issue with 207mm pulleys. I’ve been saying that the issue with a 207 is creating too much centripetal force and the 12.9 bolt are not enough . It’s more common on 6mt with a light fly wheel .
I performed a 207 install on my buddies six speed manual transmission S4 and within 1000 miles of testing the bolt sheared off . When I first posted it online I was blamed for user install. I ignored it and let the Internet talk , I knew that the install was incorrect as this was my first install Nor a n00b with this platform . The second time I installed it I actually documented it via video as far as talking it and adding loctie per instruction . And again within a few thousand miles the bolt sheared off again.
lastly, I decided and convinced him to go with a dual pulley system (190mm) and that solved the problem . no more bolt failure.
Jay from jbx makes APR bolts which will not shear if you still wanna use the 207
Really, didn't know it was a common issue. Mine actually lasted for a while. 12.9 is very strong though or maybe it's because I have an automatic?
@@cmidas3396
Yes, they are very strong and the Internet and phones will give you shit and tell you it was user error , over or under torqued etc. I know there is some cases where it is user error, but I said I’m not new to the game. It’s more coming on the manual transmissions with a light fly wheel . But if you search under the boards or groups, you’ll see plenty of room, but I’ve been shared off completely.
@@rorod3123 Wow, thanks for the info. I guess I'll order the JBX bokts and replace them one by one so I don't have to take the belt and everything off.
I don't think the water theory is what snapped your bolt... That much water would likely just make the belt slip if there was that much resistance. I think what is more likely is one of these two situations:
If you're oem crank bolt was used, then re-torquing it after installing the 207 probably weakened it & caused it to fail over time
Or
If they were new, maybe they weren't torqued correctly?
Not trying to dog on your install or anything, but crank pulley bolts on the 3.0t have a history of failure with improper torque.
Glad you caught it though! Big save.
Yeah I hear you but I torqued them the first time and I noticed the noise started directly after driving through the deep water. The belt might've slipped but the pulley would've still have been turning and got some resistance from being submerged also I did get on it once I realized how deep the water was but yeah just a theory. I actually went back over the bolts again this time and did 23ft lbs and made sure I ran them all up (walked the dog) a few times afterwards so hopefully no more issues. I'll check them again in about a week or so.
@@cmidas3396 yea... I'm still thinking the reason for failure here is re-using bolts that have already been torqued.
@@cmidas3396 I’m thinking the same brother. The speed the pulley runs will act like a propeller and will create massive amounts or torque on the bolts. Whatever the case, you’ve had a close call and have done a brilliant job of fixing your A6!
@@AudiC7Owners I actually used one of the supplied bolts the first time and it broke but three of the originals remained. New to me though is quite a bit of people have commented to me that it's been happening with the supplied bolts on other pullies also and that it's more prevalent on 6mt cars. They brought to my attention that JXB has ARP bolts to adress the issue. Have you heard about that?
Yeah and if the propeller theory is correct then also the car moving forward with the pulley trying to propell water back the opposite way from it would have put even more stress on it. I think that's what happened because the pulley didn't have marks from the bolts being shot out if it happened with no water and nothing else like the radiator got damaged.
Were they new OEM bolts or used ones from previo pulley?
Honestly used from the previous but one bolt was from the new kit and it broke while 3 of the old remained.
Where to get and what do I look for to find those heat exchanger pipes
I don't know the part number right off hand but I did I video on it with the part number if you look through my channel. I found mine on ebay.
I seen a guy with jhm crank pulley and snapped every single one
Yeah I'm starting to hear about that. They said JBX has special bolts that won't break.
@@cmidas3396 one way to find out lol
Yeah but they're ARP bolts so they are known to be good.
You can try not over torquing your crank bolts when you install the new pulley. The after market pulley will have different torque max than factory because the after market part is different forging, also that’s why they send you new bolts, they have a different hardness as well. NO PROPELLERS!!! Your Audi is fast but it’s not going to fly away! Lol 😂
You stay in your place big bro 😁 I toqued to the supplied specs but now people are letting me know it's a common issue with the bigger pullies but more prevalent on manual trans cars with lightweight pullies and that there's a company that sales much stronger APR bolts to address the issue so I'm gonna go that route because I'm planning on having a lot of fun with it this sumner 😎
🤣🤣🤣 you torqued the factory OEM Bolts to the aftermarket torque specs… tryin to be fancy!
@@xopherbryant No I did not 🤣
Buy a bolt extractor.
Don't need it. They came out pretty easy.