Good number of folks asking about the bluetooth scanner I'm using. Here's a link! amzn.to/2AwvtSQ I've had this one for maybe 4 years or so (EricTheCarGuy actually gave it to me). It's worked great!
I love your channel, been a fan for some time, your knowledge and no nonsense approach to engineering and mechanics is unparalleled, for this I thank you sincerely. I have a question about the scanner you are using, can it also give you vehicle information about the car as you drive? I am looking for something that will give me engine temp and oil pressure in real time that I can have in my field of vision on my phone as I am driving, more just to monitor certain parameters in different driving environments. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, continued success my good man, I always look forward to your uploads. Best channel and best host on the subject!!!!
Yes, it actually has a live display where you can read things like temperature, throttle position, that kind of thing. It will depend on your make and model what it can read, but you can get live stuff and record data. It's quite neat! I'd recommend looking into compatibility with your make and model, but it's worked well with the cars I've tried it on.
LOL teamed up with progressive to make a video to help folks out there buying half-broken cars! As someone who just recently bought one myself, I can tell you progressive is the only one that'll insure me at a near-decent rate! $100 instead of $180-200
a tip if you find a used car on the side of the road with a for sale sign, when you call them dont specify what car your interested in buying, this will let you know if they are a used car dealer because they will have to ask which car, also ask what price they are asking even if it says on the sign.
Also #6: If the dealership or auto lot refuses to let you, as a customer, to test drive or have a mechanic inspect the vehicle, Forget the other tests and walk away, no matter how sweet the deal is.
@@gameworkerty they have their 7 day return policy though, so at least you can have your mechanic check it out within that time frame and return it if anything bad comes up.
Apparently one dealership we dealt with was dodgy but did let us bring the car to a mechanic. The mechanic barely had to glimpse at the engine bay. He said it had been in a frontal accident and someone did a horrible job of, like, supergluing the internal parts back together. This was unnoticeable from the outside
I'd be glad. It's easy for a car to lose value if it has faults. Hard for it to gain value if your maintenance and mods have been exceptionally good, unless you are selling to someone who knows cars.
What if the tasteful mod actually _is_ tasteful, like a spoiler on a Coyote V8 Mustang, or four-barrel carburetor on a car that originally ran a two-barrel.
Sign 1.. It's a Honda S2k.... On a for real note, I have done tons of used car inspections. The little time spent on a proper inspection can save years of headaches. Never be afraid to walk away from a car, especially if it's your only transportation
That also depends on the dealership/technician. I've worked for a hyundai dealership that would sell used cars with what I consider major issues without repairing them. They'd ask that I clean it up and make it as good as I can without any parts. I.e. I had a hyundai tuscon with oil on the front cover and they wanted me to clean it up and do what I can to slow/stop the leak but just pulling the cover and replacing the gasket and doing an inspection behind the timing cover was a no-no. I no longer work for that dealership btw.
@@oddieboi the used car dealerships always do that kind of things, at least in my country. I really hate that, the last car we buy is a Chevrolet Prizm 1999, i make sure that car was in perfect conditions, and i was right. Amazing car.
Humble mechanic. Sign 1 Honda released s2000 2.0 and it has 240hp name any make reliabilty like HONDA #1 sign 2 i have accord 2000 coupe. And my bro has the98 sedan never had a issue with so i guess the old cars are made to last longer than used cars
Honda's are extremely reliable I have 254k on my Honda civic that's breaking it in I seriously feel like I can easily hit 300k I took this thing cross country already. doesn't leak or burn one drop of oil.
Side note for undercarriage leaks... If you run the AC, condensation could build up and will sometimes drip when the car is stopped. It’s just water, so make sure you can identify that it’s not the AC.
Dealerships are the biggest rip off. They are selling a car they know absolutely nothing about. Most people just feel more comfortable buying from a dealer. And a dealer aint gonna sell a car that they cant make thousands on!!
I remember one time I took a used Dakota on a test drive and about a block away from the dealership I started smelling coolant haha. Needless to say that drive didn't last too long.
If you check the OBDII codes make sure to run an emissions or smog test. If any of the items indicate "not ready" you know that the engine computer was recently reset to hide codes.
@@baddrivercam Yes, try that 1st, but not all makes and models even years will give you that "miles since cleared" DTC, but as a fail safe, and as a general rule check the emissions like he said above. I do that before I even start the car or a test drive, if they can't explain why the car isn't ready, I walk. I don't even live in an emissions testing area.
When I sold my used car, I listed everything that was wrong with it and sold it for a good price (lower than what other cars were listed at). Car went fast.
You forgot to mention that Condensation from the AC dripping is okay. :) that's the only thing that should drip when you have the AC running for some time.
I have a special tool. It's a spring loaded magnet, you stick it to a panel and slowly lift of, when the magnet lets go it has a scale that tells you the thickness of the paint. Obviously if it doesn't stick at all, it's been bogged up. Sometimes the best time to check for smoke is at night with some one driving behind you. Their headlights will highlight the smoke. Also if it smokes going up a hill, then it's the rings, and when you engine brake down a hill and then you blip the throttle if it smokes it's the valve stem seals.
I have seen videos about the UK equivalent to the Nissan Frontier breaking in two due to frame rust. This was due to a plant in Spain not building the frames correctly. As far as I know, this is not a problem in the US.
For number 5, just because there isn't a code right now doesn't mean it won't pop up later. One should also check the readiness monitor and make sure the codes weren't cleared recently.
One of my coworkers recently took a test drive in a used F150 being sold by the owner... who refused to let him take any left turns or look under the front of the truck! Yeah sure buddy, you're totally hiding your catastrophic suspension damage XD
Selfie stick being used for something other then a narcissists next photo op, if it was only used for such purposes it wouldn't be banned in so many public areas.
Yes, a selfie-stick would be much better than leaving the phone on the floor recording, as you drive back and forth to get video of the bottom of the car. A "didn't quite judge it right" moment can cost you! :)
I guess long enough for it to warm up, and long enough to include a variety of roads (ie motorway / highway driving). 20 mins at least I reckon. You’re spending a lot of your hard earned money - the seller should understand if they’re genuine.
Heh, ditched my vehicle a few times, never totaled. Once because I didn't quite judge _what_ was crossing the road, I just saw movement. It was icy, and I slid. Turned out, it was just some turkeys. Wouldn't have been good, but probably wouldn't have been worth the risks I took if I had known what it was crossing the road. As it turns out, didn't hit a single turkey, and no damage to the vehicle, so it worked out the best for everyone, including the turkeys.
Years ago, I learned that when you put tractor in a stall with an overhead door the ROPS might be just a tiny bit taller than you might have thought!!! So THAT'S why it can fold down....D'oh.....
I'm so glad I looked for videos about what NOT to do with an automatic transmission one day. I stumbled on your channel. So now when people have car questions, I just send them a link! Keep being awesome!
after 2 of my family members went against my advice and purchased the used vehicle they wanted anyway. i came up with one sign you shouldnt buy a used car. 1. get on craigslist and find the highest mileage of the same model you are considering. if you are excited because this car only has 80k miles but you can only find 4 of them for sale, the highest with 110k miles. high and low miles is relative to the car you are considering. i would actually say that for THIS car, 80k is really high miles.
A couple odd ball comments. Listen to the engine when you start it, when its warmed up, and when you turn it off. Clattering, clunking, crackling, = leave. If you are a mechanic or have been exposed to folks working on cars, smell various engine compartments in for repair. I saw a vid of a mechanic who was blind. But he could do pretty good diagnostics from the sounds and smells from an engine compartment. Overheated coolants, electrical insulation, burnt oil, etc..
I wondering if he was referring to anything in particular. Someone from another automotive channel actually did this with one of their long term vehicles.
once again, fantastic video! just as a side note regarding the scan tool, if you're using your own obd2 unit it's best to scan it first, then again after the test drive. reason being, a clever dealer has potentially also spent the $5 on a cheap OBD2 unit and has cleared any codes that where on it. my grandmother recently purchased a 2014 Toyota Aurion and i made a point of scanning it during it's maiden voyage, and again after she had owned it for a week or 2 just to be sure that it wasn't harboring any cleared codes
It's always easier to say no to a vehicle. Expanding on #4, in addition to looking inside the oil fill for sludge, reach in a scoop out a sample from the underside of the valve cover. If your finger comes out with sludge, skip all other tests and walk.
This was helpful. sometimes the mistakes we make when buying a car we feel like we being rush by the salesperson. And we forget to inspect important parts of the vehicle!
Not necessarily. I change the fluids on my vehicle religiously, and keep up with all the standard maintenance. Wash and wax regularly, and once a year I clean everything under the hood. The engine, panels, hoses, wire harnesses, blow out and hose down the radiator, everything. My truck is 12 years old now with 130k miles but still looks brand new.
Agreed. I do not like seeing a freshly cleaned engine bay in a car for sale. Cleaning engines is such a rare thing to do, it's suspicious to do so when selling. It might be innocent, but it might have been done to hide problems. I like to see an engine bay that is clean because there have been no leaks, but shows no evidence of having been deliberately cleaned.
@@Bennysol yes, maybe you really take care of everything, but when its cleaned few hours ago you cant prove it, just your words, when you see dusty engine never cleaned in years and no leaks, then it really not leaking.
I had a matching set of 4 Tires on my truck, my girlfriend got a flat borrowing it for work and her boss bought me a brand new tire of a different brand that day. I didn't say no because tires aren't cheap, that's what it says about me.
Good observation. I usually check down at the floorboard to inspect the brake pedal and clutch (if applicable). If the ribbed pattern is worn down to a smooth surface it's usually a good indication of how the car was treated by the previous owner(s).
This is why my number 1 priority when selling trash cars that have had no maintenence whatsoever, is to just buy a set of matching tyres for them before selling. People don't suspect a thing.
@@EngineeringExplained I'm thinking of buying 2014 GX460, even though some ppl suggested Equus or Genesis (I dont know anything about Hyundai :() but I'm familiar with RX which I had in the past and now with ES, but then I see this: "You shouldn't buy used car"! And it's true I hate headaches and frequent visits to mechanic ripoffs!!! Any suggestions? I am looking for a reliable SUV, crossover or similar high which can handle too many bumps, dips, cracks and poor maintained rough roads in Houston and sometimes major floods or even stagnant rain water lol!, at the same time a vehicle with safety features, very quiet and comfortable for my eldelry parents who ride with me most of the time. Thnx
@@seekfactsnotfiction9056 Im sorry im 1 year late😅. But I do have some advice. Being a used car doesnt neccessarily mean the car has problems, especially if the car has a low mileage. The gx460 is a solid choice, those things are bulletproof, along with their toyota counterpart: the prado. I would also consider a 2011-2014 cadillac escalade. Since it has the same engine as a yukon denali, which isnt that problematic and is fairly cheap to fix. In addition to being literally being as floaty and comfortable as a yacht. A wierd but real choice would be a w126-w140 s class. Those things are so reliable they make toyotas seem like a joke. my father literally made a profit selling one after more than a year of heavy use. They are as luxurious as they can be. Other honorable mentions include the ford explorer 2016, expedition 2015, land cruiser gxr 2013, Nissan patrol platinum from around 2014, dodge durango of any model year, and a kia sorento/mohave/telluride. In addition to the hyundai santa fe or pallisade. I know I have alot of knowledge for a 15 year old. 😂
@@blakew5672 - It may have been titled "Excessive Rust" but if you listen to him talk his standards would never pass any Northeastern cars. You put a camera under a NE car you are going to see TONS of rust. And you won't be able to tell what is severe rust vs mostly surface rust unless you get under there and feel, poke and lightly hammer areas. So sorry, you;re incorrect. Most of these UA-camr's doing car videos live in areas where rust in not an issue. I have rarely seen videos where they had to torch a rusted bolt for 7 minutes just to get it lose, etc etc.
@@kaitlynnderry2414 - Yes, I know if you are close that will happen. But isn't that mostly in the body? Not underneath in the frame? Even if so, nothing compare to the NE part of the country were they have to salt the roads.
When scanning for codes , if you find none , check to see if all the " Monitors " are ready and able to send a code . Many people disconnect and reconnect the battery right before you show up to buy their car . This will temporarily clear off all the codes but only until the Monitors reset . Then the codes will pop up again .
When test driving , notice if the gauges are working . Temp , oil presure and voltage if the vehicle is equipped with them . I had one guy place a " Funeral " card suspiciously over the Temp gauge . When I carefully noticed and removed the card , I could see that the gauge wasnt working .
Would take advice but I buy 400 dollar cars with lots of issues and drive them until they explode. I bought a 1990 Geo Prizm for 550 and have been driving it 100 miles a day, already put 8k miles and nothing has broke
On my channel I have a video on a Lincoln I got for 400 and made a grill and headlights for it. Still have that one but haven't done any work. Will make a video for the Geo eventually.
Geo Prizm aka Rebadged Toyota Corollas are great little cars especially the lightweight, fuel economy, vehicle simplicity, and affordable replacement parts due to worldly abundance of the model. After having newer vehicles, i decided to go back to the 90's era Corolla because it met many of the criterion that i wanted in a daily driver car especially living where vehicles tend to rust. After having a newer car that got flooded out and another car with many other expensive issues like dealer only PCM updates and recalls and such led me to this decision. No regrets.
@@xochiltepetzalailhuicamina2322 Hell yeah. Except my thermostat got stuck today and it is in the worst spot to fix it. Thought it was at the front but it is under the distributor.
Another more obvious one is tire health. While it's not as important as a lot of things you mentioned, it can be a pain with certain cars to have to purchase a full set right after purchasing the car. I know from experience, the 300zx I bought needed 2 235 40 R18s and 2 275 35 R18s (the tires on it were showing belts and one had a busted belt) and that would've been nearly $750 if I hadn't gotten a discount from the dealer.
When buying from a private party , I also judge a car by its owner . More meticulous people take care of their investments . I also want to see if the car has the service records and the Original Owners Manual . If you are buying a car with a rubber timing belt and there is no history of it ever being replaced , you could be on borrowed time if its an interference motor because if it breaks , you now have a 3,500 lb lawn Ornament. Most rubber timing belts need replacing after about 70 k miles and every 70k afterwards.
I also like to check for bubbles in the oil, particularly if the seller changed the oil. A good diagnostic/preventative action if you buy the car is to change all fluids, yes including diff/transaxle, ones too before deciding what to go in depth on if needed. The more mileage on the car the more you can expect to have to repair sooner than later.
I see you are using the BlueDriver! It’s an awesome tool. I was having an intermittent cooling fan issue on a Mustang GT this summer past and that tool was instrumental in allowing me to monitor the temperature as I drove to avoid ruining the engine. I changed the thermostat, radiator cap, had the radiator out and tested (good) and even replaced the cooling fan assembly with a new one from Ford. But the issue persisted. I was told it could be a head gasket but I had no symptoms for that. I was getting no codes for anything either. A ford tech looked at it with a Ford computer and was baffled. I was fixing to replace the PCM when I decided to disassemble the BEC (bussed electrical center) in the engine bay. Lo and behold there was my issue, a short in the connector to the high speed fan relay. I got a salvage BEC and a new connector and repinned the wires from the old connector into it and problem solved! Right before I had disassembled the BEC the BlueDriver had started giving me an open fan circuit code. Worst issue I ever had to troubleshoot on a car but now it’s working great, well was, it’s winter stored now. Even the stereo sounds way louder and clearer and I was having an intermittent transmission flare issue that has gone away too. I had an issue in that BEC for a while that was interfering with voltages needed for other things like the transmission operation. It progressively got worst with the cooling fan issue. I put a lot of time into troubleshooting it, working on it myself, reading stuff online, etc. So glad I solved it and that the car did not catch fire!!
lol at number 4.. I'm sure that's fine in California but in the North East you won't find a car without rust under it unless its brand new. They heavily salt the roads in Pennsylvania and all the cars undersides have rust
That's why "excessive" rust was mentioned. Some rust is expected on the underside, how much obviously depends on location (climate) and vehicle age. Still, up to about 10 years old vehicles should have next to no rust. Manufacturers usually put 12 years of anti-rust warranty on cars (at least here in EU), so if it's rusted after 5 there's something wrong.
@@kenkalajdzic But (usually) that warranty only covers rusting though the metal from inside to out. So it really doesn’t cover any rust on the underside of the car. If you drive on the salted roads underside of 10 year old car will be rusty.
One thing to know about OBDII codes: not only do you want to check if there are any codes stored or codes being displayed, but you want to see if there are any pending codes and Not Ready statuses. If someone is trying to sell a car that has been throwing up codes and showing a check engine light, they may try to fudge it by clearing the codes themselves to make it appear to the buyer that there are no problems. There’s an easy way to tell if this is the case: plug in your scanner and check the I/M readiness section. If anything reads NOT READY or PENDING, it can absolutely mean that the owner is trying to hide something!
One thing you can use to check for rust is take a small magnet with you. If bondo has been used to hide rust, the magnet will not stick to it. In my younger days, I knew a fellow who moved from Michigan to Texas(where I live), bringing his 1969 Buick. This car had rust where you would not think a car could rust. After he got a new car, he bondoed the Buick up, had a cheap paint job put on it and sold it. Another person I know caught a body shop in a lie with a magnet. He had a truck he needed some paint work on and the body shop claimed the hood was aluminum and would cost more to paint. He stuck a small magnet to it. Magnets do not stick to aluminum.
Great vid,thanks a lot! Gonna make a list of what you said as I’m looking for a secondhand car right now. Great timing for the vid. 👍🏼 Keep up the good work,thanks a lot.
Most of the issues he explained will show up after a good 15-20mins of driving mixed with slow and hard pulls. Remember any seller who really has nothing to hide will have that patience and understanding. But more importantly is to do a recheck after the test
Hey Engineering, you forget if you see cool bursting flames shooting out the exhaust also a huge indicator of a no, no. Plus all 4 wheels with a huge severely off camber is a huge not to buy.
When I bought my used car I propped it up on a curb to make it a lot easier to crawl under to look for rust/suspension problems. Great video, did not know about the exhaust one, I'll have to use it next time.
If buying a classic car it might be normal for it to bellow out a big white cloud of smoke when its very cold outside and the engine is still cold. Also a few small leaks are common. But you still dont want to see gushing fluid or smoking very heavily even after its warmed up.
Really like the pace and clarity of your presentation! Thanks!
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Old car guy here. Old cars/trucks for old guy. Lots of very cool rides that all needed brakes, wheel bearings, transfer case, fuel pump/lines, fuel injectors, TPS, EGR, PCV, Coil driver, plugs & wires, synthetic oil when it even looks dirty and plenty of rust. They all made plenty of 100,000 mile odometer rollovers. I love bass, no treble, but it's all about the oil, no trouble. p.s. Love that 420 code. My repair procedure is personal, however. (O2 spacer and full bowl). My '79 Z28 has 420 mechanical logic...windows automatically roll down some, depending on severity.
This channel is really exceptional. Very clean, understandable pronunciation AND really great information. The video quality is awesome as well. Glad that you are on UA-cam!
I also recommend taking your car to a free mechanic inspection after you buy it, just to bee absolutely sure. Because there might be something you missed that can be prevented by the mechanic with a small repair or guidance.
Also check the consistency in the gaps between the panels for signs it’s been in an accident. Don’t rely on a Carfax report! They’re are not always updated right away. We bought a used 2010 Charger in October 2010 with 19,000 miles from a Chrysler/Dodge/ Jeep dealer with supposedly a “clean” Carfax report. We did not have any accident with it but 4 years later when we traded it in at a different dealer they offered us a lower trade in value because the Carfax then was showing it was in an accident in 2010.
@@EngineeringExplained Just curious what led you to choose this one over others or if you have tried others and this one eventually surpassed them? I know Apple compatibility can be scarce among the more affordable options from what I have seen. Thanks!
that's why in Germany we can go 300kph plus, because every car has to get inspection every two years, providing some basic level of road worthiness/safety. Also checking the service history might be a good tip?
cuteshadowKIA same in the us. Some states it’s every year. But if you “know a guy” or the shop is lazy, they can pass a car that shouldn’t be on the road.
@@cuteshadow I'm french, so I couldn't go to 300 anyway... Just wanted to highlight the fact that an inspection doesn't relate to the quality or performance of the car, it only means it's not a wreck 😂
These are excellent tips. Many of the newer cars no longer have dip sticks for checking the oil in the engine and or transmission. It would be a good idea to have a proper quality scan tool and go through the readings to view for any error codes. If the person is not proficient to properly check out a vehicle it is best for them to pay a qualified mechanic to check out the vehicle. If you can have access to a lift it is a good idea to check for loose ball joints, loose suspension parts, condition of the tie rods, struts, springs and shocks.
Make sure to look very carefully at all the body panels and at the spacing between panels. If the paint is wonky, or the gaps vary a lot, there's a good chance it's been in a collision and salvaged.
Get a very good mechanic to do a checkup. Then take care of the damn car. Keep in mind that every used car has some problems. What is important is that they are not major and that you can fix them without spending lots of time and money. Plenty of a-holes that lie and want to scam someone into buying their poorly maintained car.
This is why I always change my oil every 3000 miles, and filter every six. Coolant changed every five. Have yet to reach the 10,000 for my transmission fluid in my newer car. Just keeping up on those things is a good way to make sure your car goes over 300,000 miles. Had a Toyota Solara with over 300,000 miles, and the only thing that failed was the Manifold 1 cat. converter.
@@joehutchcraft1675 I think you can get away with "normal" mantainance that is 7kmi for oil and filters. My dsg requires oil and filters every 40kmi. If you do it more often then great!
@@Gandalf721 I keep it as "factory" as I can. It is the 177hp so plenty of power for me. I also do little city driving so the standard interval is ok for me.
@@joehutchcraft1675 In all of the Mazda Rotary (The final being a series 2 RX7, the oil and filter were changed every 10,000 Km. The cooling system was straight coolant . No water. Gearbox oil was changed every 2 years. Over its life all the car needed was one universal joint. Exhaust system and Disk pads. No oil leaks whatsoever. I would use shoe polish even to keep door seals in good condition.
We wish! The P0420 family (0420, 0421, 0430, 0431) are troublemakers. 0420/0430 are often exhaust leaks ahead of the converters (or even really dirty injectors) but could also be a bad converter. 0421/0431 seem to always be bad pre-converters. Trying to fix a P0420 or P0430 by blindly replacing the converter can take the car up a very dark alley. The code goes away because the new converter is just enough better to clear the code, but it comes back six months later when the new wears off and the problem gets worse. A second replacement lasts a month or two as the problem gets even worse. I fixed the last P0420 in the family - my daughter's 2002 Sienna - by instructing her to use top tier gas. I cleared the code a week later and it didn't come back for nearly a year. She had gone back to random gas.
I bought a 01 Camry 2.2 from a side shop somewhere near Dallas a year ago. From what I've heard, sellers will lie about things like "this car was owned by a mechanic's grandfather". I bought this car for wayyyy too much, and was sold to me for 216K miles. Fast forward six months of extreme engine lag, smoking, all the suspension falling apart, dirty interior and throwing multiple codes, I was finally about to give up on the car. That's when I was removing the passenger seat I found a center piece for the gauges, which is the speedometer/odometer combo. I slapped it into the cluster and the odometer read "354000". Upon buying a Carfax report, the vehicle had spend most of its life in Oklahoma until about 2015, with the last odometer reading "354000". For 4 years, the car was juggled back and forth between strange, unknown and potential criminal owners. The seller never gave me the title, I had to get it bonded. To list the things I have so far replaced: the entire interior, most of the electricals, valve cover and gasket, alternator, starter (3 times), radiator twice, control arms and bushings, ball joints, CV axles, inner and outer tie rods, windshield wipers, EGR valve and corresponding connections, rear struts, battery, heater core (car didn't come with one; bought in February and it was 12 degrees every day), air-box and intake manifold, nearly all sensors in the engine bay, fuel pump, the entire exhaust system excluding the muffler, all five wheels (full size spare), driver door, and much more that can't come to mind right now. I need to replace rack and pinion (loose steering), motor mounts (motor moves around), potentially the torque converter (the ATF is pitch black), transmission filter, oil pump and main seal, timing components and pulley system (380k miles on this car), charcoal canister and hoses, all hoses under the hood, a NEW radiator, a new hood, front hubs and wheel bearings, bumper, and headlight assemblies. I should have been a little more responsible when buying the car but I needed something to take me out of town early the next morning.... When someone is selling a car, I found out the hard way that they're selling it for a reason! Check steering, fluid levels, history reports (carfax or maintenance records), engine codes or "not ready" sensors, check the color of the fluids, look for signs of uneven or extreme tire wear, check for rust underneath and bad bushings, and test drive with the radio off.
Nice video. I was a little surprised that it didn't include checking tires for excessive or uneven wear. Perhaps that's not a deal breaker, but it could affect the purchase price and is another easy way to check if the reality of the vehicle matches its advertised condition.
Good number of folks asking about the bluetooth scanner I'm using. Here's a link! amzn.to/2AwvtSQ I've had this one for maybe 4 years or so (EricTheCarGuy actually gave it to me). It's worked great!
I love your channel, been a fan for some time, your knowledge and no nonsense approach to engineering and mechanics is unparalleled, for this I thank you sincerely. I have a question about the scanner you are using, can it also give you vehicle information about the car as you drive? I am looking for something that will give me engine temp and oil pressure in real time that I can have in my field of vision on my phone as I am driving, more just to monitor certain parameters in different driving environments. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, continued success my good man, I always look forward to your uploads. Best channel and best host on the subject!!!!
Yes, it actually has a live display where you can read things like temperature, throttle position, that kind of thing. It will depend on your make and model what it can read, but you can get live stuff and record data. It's quite neat! I'd recommend looking into compatibility with your make and model, but it's worked well with the cars I've tried it on.
Engineering Explained ever heard of diesel?
Hey, do all the points apply equally to a diesel-fueled vehicle?
LOL teamed up with progressive to make a video to help folks out there buying half-broken cars! As someone who just recently bought one myself, I can tell you progressive is the only one that'll insure me at a near-decent rate! $100 instead of $180-200
#6. Blood stains in the trunk
Yes those dead hookers sure do leave a mess, though a double layer of thick plastic sheet taped inside the trunk sure does help.
Shouldn't affect the longevity of the car
Those cars has ghost in it
I personally think it’s helpful so then I can do the same and it blends in
Fanny Shmella @holdup.comments
Nice video dude! Perfect overview for people looking to buy a used car!
From the master himself, thanks Chris!!
Hey guys! Chris fix here. Is this you bro?
Hey its ChrisFix!😃
Saw some oil outside the oil pan, is that bad otherwise everything looked great
Aseem Agarwal could be a leak in the oil pan or the oil pan Gasket. Doesn't cost much to fix either one of those things so it's probably alright
1: smoky exhaust
2: fluid leaks
3: cloudy oil
4: excessive rust under car
5: obdii codes
For those of u who don’t have time
Sheldon Cooper SDG thanks buddie
Thanks
THANK YOU !!! OMG what a beast !!
I wish more people would do this for their videos. and Timestamp their main points
a tip if you find a used car on the side of the road with a for sale sign, when you call them dont specify what car your interested in buying, this will let you know if they are a used car dealer because they will have to ask which car, also ask what price they are asking even if it says on the sign.
K m8 thnks
Also #6: If the dealership or auto lot refuses to let you, as a customer, to test drive or have a mechanic inspect the vehicle,
Forget the other tests and walk away, no matter how sweet the deal is.
True!! I done that quiet a few times
there are a few persons especially if you look for a gtr or rx-7 that will tell you "NO I DRIVE YOU SIT"
Exactly! 😆
@@gameworkerty they have their 7 day return policy though, so at least you can have your mechanic check it out within that time frame and return it if anything bad comes up.
Apparently one dealership we dealt with was dodgy but did let us bring the car to a mechanic. The mechanic barely had to glimpse at the engine bay. He said it had been in a frontal accident and someone did a horrible job of, like, supergluing the internal parts back together. This was unnoticeable from the outside
Imagine trying to sell your car and this guy shows up. I would just apologize and run away.
I buy cars and fix them up. Once they're perfect I sell them cheap because I'm bored of them..... it happens.
@@staydriven578 lol I do that too
@@staydriven578 yo I feel you.
You are funny :DDD i just LOL
I'd be glad. It's easy for a car to lose value if it has faults. Hard for it to gain value if your maintenance and mods have been exceptionally good, unless you are selling to someone who knows cars.
"Take it on a nice long test drive". See you in 100K
"The engine just stopped, dunno what's wrong with it. You can have it back, I don't want it."
@@EngineeringExplained Would you still wipe dat' back bumper ?
@@EngineeringExplained Out of fuel.
just plan a vacation when you test drive it, take it out for a week :). Then you know if it's worth your money
You helped me a long time ago to find fake IC's, thank you!
6th point - The owner said the car has been "tastefully modded"
Hahaha
Never been beaten on...
*Has a 6266 turbo, meth injection, highlift cams, and stripped interior*
🤔🤔🤔
That's enough for me to give up the purchase.
"bro, this wing is totally functional, trust me." "What's a fart can?."
What if the tasteful mod actually _is_ tasteful, like a spoiler on a Coyote V8 Mustang, or four-barrel carburetor on a car that originally ran a two-barrel.
Me: *puts on latex gloves*
Car salesman: w-what are you doing
@TheSorrowLand 😂
Cars boutta get violated
Alex Dow legendary
Deep Prostates exam
Alex Dow lmaoooo
Sign 1.. It's a Honda S2k....
On a for real note, I have done tons of used car inspections. The little time spent on a proper inspection can save years of headaches. Never be afraid to walk away from a car, especially if it's your only transportation
That also depends on the dealership/technician. I've worked for a hyundai dealership that would sell used cars with what I consider major issues without repairing them. They'd ask that I clean it up and make it as good as I can without any parts. I.e. I had a hyundai tuscon with oil on the front cover and they wanted me to clean it up and do what I can to slow/stop the leak but just pulling the cover and replacing the gasket and doing an inspection behind the timing cover was a no-no. I no longer work for that dealership btw.
@@oddieboi good karma choice.
@@oddieboi the used car dealerships always do that kind of things, at least in my country. I really hate that, the last car we buy is a Chevrolet Prizm 1999, i make sure that car was in perfect conditions, and i was right. Amazing car.
Humble mechanic. Sign 1 Honda released s2000 2.0 and it has 240hp name any make reliabilty like HONDA #1 sign 2 i have accord 2000 coupe. And my bro has the98 sedan never had a issue with so i guess the old cars are made to last longer than used cars
Honda's are extremely reliable I have 254k on my Honda civic that's breaking it in I seriously feel like I can easily hit 300k I took this thing cross country already. doesn't leak or burn one drop of oil.
Kept thinking every time you cut to an exhaust shot we would get an example of what smoke you were talking about.
I did too. @Engineering Explained talks about the issues, then shows a perfectly fine car as far as I can tell...
Reason i disliked.. And the continuoustalkingwithoutpausesexhaustedmeinaminute
Lololo most enjineeeRs arent good with those things hajahaha
Just him showing off his perfect maintained s2000 lol
If the smoke doesn't look like a light gray that barely is visible, you gotta problem....lol
Side note for undercarriage leaks...
If you run the AC, condensation could build up and will sometimes drip when the car is stopped. It’s just water, so make sure you can identify that it’s not the AC.
#5 - #1: It's not a 1994 Toyota Celica
Wait, wrong channel
The main point hes trying to get across is to put on gloves when you start looking at the car.
Safety is paramount.
@@EngineeringExplained dirty hands dirty worker
Engineers wear gloves, mechanics don't. They just get in the way.
and safety glasses
If a buyer turned up to see my car and pulled out his surgical gloves I would drop the selling price straight away. 😂
Solid list of basic things to look at that many people honestly overlook. Just because it’s from a dealership it doesn’t mean it’s a quality vehicle.
Exactly.. it means it's not.
Dealerships are the biggest rip off. They are selling a car they know absolutely nothing about. Most people just feel more comfortable buying from a dealer. And a dealer aint gonna sell a car that they cant make thousands on!!
I remember one time I took a used Dakota on a test drive and about a block away from the dealership I started smelling coolant haha. Needless to say that drive didn't last too long.
When you put on those blue latex gloves , the seller will know you mean business!
😀
😬
If you check the OBDII codes make sure to run an emissions or smog test. If any of the items indicate "not ready" you know that the engine computer was recently reset to hide codes.
Lawrence Lentini your reader can tell you exactly how many miles since DTC's were last cleared.
@@baddrivercam Yes, try that 1st, but not all makes and models even years will give you that "miles since cleared" DTC, but as a fail safe, and as a general rule check the emissions like he said above. I do that before I even start the car or a test drive, if they can't explain why the car isn't ready, I walk. I don't even live in an emissions testing area.
Or like he said take it for a nice long test drive and make it throw the codes again.
@@kensperspective idk where you guys live but no ones getting a test drive on a used car in england lmao
@@ethani7137 Why?
6th sign
“No low ballers, I know what I have”
😂 Man so true
This. And my other favorite are “it’s rare” and “it’s mint except.”
@@NGAAutoTV the best is the "unmolested" cars that have completely different wheels and interior
When I sold my used car, I listed everything that was wrong with it and sold it for a good price (lower than what other cars were listed at). Car went fast.
7th sign
"No high ballers. I know what I have"
Engineering “Take it on a long test drive” Explained
How long is considered a long test drive?
@@matthewbarymow4402 word
@@matthewbarymow4402 put a 10000 miles on it and return if its not good
You forgot to mention that Condensation from the AC dripping is okay. :) that's the only thing that should drip when you have the AC running for some time.
Quick tip on frame rust: if you can push a screwdriver through it, it's definitely too much rust...
Too obvious, and the best part ... There will not be any rust where the hole is.
I have a special tool. It's a spring loaded magnet, you stick it to a panel and slowly lift of, when the magnet lets go it has a scale that tells you the thickness of the paint. Obviously if it doesn't stick at all, it's been bogged up. Sometimes the best time to check for smoke is at night with some one driving behind you. Their headlights will highlight the smoke. Also if it smokes going up a hill, then it's the rings, and when you engine brake down a hill and then you blip the throttle if it smokes it's the valve stem seals.
@@JayDee-xj9lu great info. How did you figure it out ? I'm learning little by little so anything is appreciated 👍
I have seen videos about the UK equivalent to the Nissan Frontier breaking in two due to frame rust. This was due to a plant in Spain not building the frames correctly. As far as I know, this is not a problem in the US.
8:05 "Perhaps someone bumped into the side of the garage..." Who would do that Jason?!
No idea! 😂
Maybe someone just didn't judge it right.
My wife's grandmother, like 10 times lol
@@EngineeringExplained i think someone uploaded a video about it, his name was Jason too.
Pretty sure he drove the same type of car aswell @@josephbourne4078
For number 5, just because there isn't a code right now doesn't mean it won't pop up later. One should also check the readiness monitor and make sure the codes weren't cleared recently.
I was thinking senor readiness monitors too. 😁
Emissions checks too. If they're not ready, either the codes were just reset or there's something wrong with the car anyway.
An addition for Nr5: good luck reading a Volvo with a generic OBDII tool.
exactly
How do you even check if codes have been cleared when you plug in a scan tool?
If you see purple smoke, you misunderstood the guy who told you about his LSD and how it improved his driving experience.
One of my coworkers recently took a test drive in a used F150 being sold by the owner... who refused to let him take any left turns or look under the front of the truck! Yeah sure buddy, you're totally hiding your catastrophic suspension damage XD
The suspention needs replacing? Nah just don't turn right, you'll get used to it eventually
you were all making fun of the selfie stick, but LOOK NOW how you need it for a video under your carrrrrrr
Hahahaha
Selfie stick being used for something other then a narcissists next photo op, if it was only used for such purposes it wouldn't be banned in so many public areas.
Yes, a selfie-stick would be much better than leaving the phone on the floor recording, as you drive back and forth to get video of the bottom of the car. A "didn't quite judge it right" moment can cost you! :)
@@jaydunbar7538 yj
"Perhaps someone bumped into the side of the garage when they were parking; didn't quite judge it right"
Nice.
LGwasherFan this comment is not for everyone
What is a "Good long drive" according to you? 5 miles, 10miles, 15 miles?
I guess long enough for it to warm up, and long enough to include a variety of roads (ie motorway / highway driving). 20 mins at least I reckon. You’re spending a lot of your hard earned money - the seller should understand if they’re genuine.
Turn the radio off and drive it and listen to everything while driving if you can take it on highway and floor it.......✌🏾
A big lesson I learned recently. If there a musty odor, make damn sure the AC is working!
Very detailed, specific advice man. Thank you. This is one of the most in depth videos on this topic I’ve seen! Keep up the good work! 👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
As of right now, I see that 52 used car dealers have seen this.
After all this, buddy wouldn't know if I am potentially buying or servicing their ride! Lol
"Didn't quite judge it right" that's how I totaled my first car
I've done that myself, but never totaled my car. A guy who didn't care to clean his car of snow properly didbthat job for me...
I don't know anyone that wrinkled a yellow S2000 while exiting their garage.
Heh, ditched my vehicle a few times, never totaled. Once because I didn't quite judge _what_ was crossing the road, I just saw movement. It was icy, and I slid. Turned out, it was just some turkeys. Wouldn't have been good, but probably wouldn't have been worth the risks I took if I had known what it was crossing the road.
As it turns out, didn't hit a single turkey, and no damage to the vehicle, so it worked out the best for everyone, including the turkeys.
Years ago, I learned that when you put tractor in a stall with an
overhead door the ROPS might be just a tiny bit taller than you
might have thought!!!
So THAT'S why it can fold down....D'oh.....
SAME
I'm so glad I looked for videos about what NOT to do with an automatic transmission one day. I stumbled on your channel. So now when people have car questions, I just send them a link! Keep being awesome!
Thanks for sharing with your buds, it’s what makes this all possible! 😊
after 2 of my family members went against my advice and purchased the used vehicle they wanted anyway. i came up with one sign you shouldnt buy a used car.
1. get on craigslist and find the highest mileage of the same model you are considering. if you are excited because this car only has 80k miles but you can only find 4 of them for sale, the highest with 110k miles. high and low miles is relative to the car you are considering. i would actually say that for THIS car, 80k is really high miles.
A couple odd ball comments. Listen to the engine when you start it, when its warmed up, and when you turn it off. Clattering, clunking, crackling, = leave.
If you are a mechanic or have been exposed to folks working on cars, smell various engine compartments in for repair. I saw a vid of a mechanic who was blind. But he could do pretty good diagnostics from the sounds and smells from an engine compartment. Overheated coolants, electrical insulation, burnt oil, etc..
"perhaps someone bumped into the side of the garage" LOL
and he said it with a straight face which makes it more funny.
I wondering if he was referring to anything in particular. Someone from another automotive channel actually did this with one of their long term vehicles.
Thanks for all the hard work you put into these videos.
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoy them! :)
I was so focused on engine and body damage, missed tiny crack on windshield on my GX, so checking glass thoroughly is a good idea too
once again, fantastic video! just as a side note regarding the scan tool, if you're using your own obd2 unit it's best to scan it first, then again after the test drive. reason being, a clever dealer has potentially also spent the $5 on a cheap OBD2 unit and has cleared any codes that where on it.
my grandmother recently purchased a 2014 Toyota Aurion and i made a point of scanning it during it's maiden voyage, and again after she had owned it for a week or 2 just to be sure that it wasn't harboring any cleared codes
Lol at the throwback to the garage incident.
It's always easier to say no to a vehicle. Expanding on #4, in addition to looking inside the oil fill for sludge, reach in a scoop out a sample from the underside of the valve cover. If your finger comes out with sludge, skip all other tests and walk.
That's a good tip!
My dad told me that one
I get attached to every car I look at, so I usually end up buying them as long as they. Got five right now
Same with the radiator.
hgpo27 Got money, too...sigh
This was helpful. sometimes the mistakes we make when buying a car we feel like we being rush by the salesperson. And we forget to inspect important parts of the vehicle!
always be suspicious if you open the hood and the engine is completely clean
Not necessarily. I change the fluids on my vehicle religiously, and keep up with all the standard maintenance. Wash and wax regularly, and once a year I clean everything under the hood. The engine, panels, hoses, wire harnesses, blow out and hose down the radiator, everything. My truck is 12 years old now with 130k miles but still looks brand new.
Agreed. I do not like seeing a freshly cleaned engine bay in a car for sale. Cleaning engines is such a rare thing to do, it's suspicious to do so when selling. It might be innocent, but it might have been done to hide problems. I like to see an engine bay that is clean because there have been no leaks, but shows no evidence of having been deliberately cleaned.
I keep my underhood clean, as it makes it easier to spot a leak and servicing is much easier also
@@Bennysol it's suspicious when the dealer opens the hood and tell you: look everything is clean and shiny
@@Bennysol yes, maybe you really take care of everything, but when its cleaned few hours ago you cant prove it, just your words, when you see dusty engine never cleaned in years and no leaks, then it really not leaking.
I walk away if a car has different tyres on the same axle, it says a lot about the previous owner.
Exactly.
I had a matching set of 4 Tires on my truck, my girlfriend got a flat borrowing it for work and her boss bought me a brand new tire of a different brand that day. I didn't say no because tires aren't cheap, that's what it says about me.
@@saintsarecoming13 no But IT says enough if You love Cars or not
Good observation. I usually check down at the floorboard to inspect the brake pedal and clutch (if applicable). If the ribbed pattern is worn down to a smooth surface it's usually a good indication of how the car was treated by the previous owner(s).
This is why my number 1 priority when selling trash cars that have had no maintenence whatsoever, is to just buy a set of matching tyres for them before selling. People don't suspect a thing.
Veterans will know it was Jason himself who "didn't quite judge it right" 😁
Shhhh!!! 😂😂
@@EngineeringExplained I'm thinking of buying 2014 GX460, even though some ppl suggested Equus or Genesis (I dont know anything about Hyundai :() but I'm familiar with RX which I had in the past and now with ES, but then I see this: "You shouldn't buy used car"! And it's true I hate headaches and frequent visits to mechanic ripoffs!!! Any suggestions? I am looking for a reliable SUV, crossover or similar high which can handle too many bumps, dips, cracks and poor maintained rough roads in Houston and sometimes major floods or even stagnant rain water lol!, at the same time a vehicle with safety features, very quiet and comfortable for my eldelry parents who ride with me most of the time. Thnx
@@seekfactsnotfiction9056 do your own research
@@seekfactsnotfiction9056 Im sorry im 1 year late😅.
But I do have some advice.
Being a used car doesnt neccessarily mean the car has problems, especially if the car has a low mileage. The gx460 is a solid choice, those things are bulletproof, along with their toyota counterpart: the prado.
I would also consider a 2011-2014 cadillac escalade. Since it has the same engine as a yukon denali, which isnt that problematic and is fairly cheap to fix. In addition to being literally being as floaty and comfortable as a yacht.
A wierd but real choice would be a w126-w140 s class.
Those things are so reliable they make toyotas seem like a joke.
my father literally made a profit selling one after more than a year of heavy use.
They are as luxurious as they can be.
Other honorable mentions include the ford explorer 2016, expedition 2015, land cruiser gxr 2013,
Nissan patrol platinum from around 2014, dodge durango of any model year, and a kia sorento/mohave/telluride. In addition to the hyundai santa fe or pallisade. I know I have alot of knowledge for a 15 year old. 😂
@@gram. rude
Good luck not seeing any rust underneath when living in the North-East!! Always love when all these car experts live in none winter areas.
Tom M
Pretty sure that’s why he said “excessive”. Meaning to the point it’s compromising the integrity of the parts
Or near the bay. Cars rust so quick if you live near the ocean 😂
@@blakew5672 - It may have been titled "Excessive Rust" but if you listen to him talk his standards would never pass any Northeastern cars. You put a camera under a NE car you are going to see TONS of rust. And you won't be able to tell what is severe rust vs mostly surface rust unless you get under there and feel, poke and lightly hammer areas. So sorry, you;re incorrect. Most of these UA-camr's doing car videos live in areas where rust in not an issue. I have rarely seen videos where they had to torch a rusted bolt for 7 minutes just to get it lose, etc etc.
@@kaitlynnderry2414 - Yes, I know if you are close that will happen. But isn't that mostly in the body? Not underneath in the frame? Even if so, nothing compare to the NE part of the country were they have to salt the roads.
The part about using the camera on your phone to video underneath is genius. I never would have thought to do that. Thanks!
This goes up a week after I buy my first car, smh. It doesn't have any of these problems but damn that timing 😂
Bro I just bought a used car like 5 days ago and then this video pops up in my feed 🤦♂️😂😂
Won't buy any used car soon but still was looking for something like this video
And how much have you lost in value since you drove off the lot? Excluding subaru's, toyota 4runners and ford Raptors?
When scanning for codes , if you find none , check to see if all the " Monitors " are ready and able to send a code .
Many people disconnect and reconnect the battery right before you show up to
buy their car . This will temporarily clear off all the codes but only until the Monitors reset . Then the codes will pop up again .
also watch out for plaid smoke from the exhaust, a sure sign of blinker fluid getting into the fuel.
lol
9 dislikes from sleazy used car dealers.
Up to 51 sneaky dealers
They’re not that bad👀
Promise you private sellers are the ones selling shitboxes
This is why the five star rating is better.
Nah, just couldn't stand the monotone voice + he did not show examples of what he was saying.
Those same signs could apply dating women.
Lol ‘after that nice long test drive’
But it depends on which kind of liquids are leaking if it's a good or a bad sign
Definitely avoid any with a lot of rust around the exhaust.
Wipe that back bumper
Is there an OBDII scanner for women?
When test driving , notice if the gauges are working .
Temp , oil presure and voltage if the vehicle is equipped with them .
I had one guy place a " Funeral " card suspiciously over the Temp gauge .
When I carefully noticed and removed the card , I could see that the gauge wasnt working .
Thank you, this was super helpful I have taken notes in my phone so i don't forget. Going to look at a vehicle next week.
Would take advice but I buy 400 dollar cars with lots of issues and drive them until they explode. I bought a 1990 Geo Prizm for 550 and have been driving it 100 miles a day, already put 8k miles and nothing has broke
On my channel I have a video on a Lincoln I got for 400 and made a grill and headlights for it. Still have that one but haven't done any work. Will make a video for the Geo eventually.
Geo Prizm aka Rebadged Toyota Corollas are great little cars especially the lightweight, fuel economy, vehicle simplicity, and affordable replacement parts due to worldly abundance of the model. After having newer vehicles, i decided to go back to the 90's era Corolla because it met many of the criterion that i wanted in a daily driver car especially living where vehicles tend to rust. After having a newer car that got flooded out and another car with many other expensive issues like dealer only PCM updates and recalls and such led me to this decision. No regrets.
@@xochiltepetzalailhuicamina2322 Hell yeah. Except my thermostat got stuck today and it is in the worst spot to fix it. Thought it was at the front but it is under the distributor.
hgpo27 sounds like your daily life sucks
@@Wyttt95 How do you figure? I haven't even told you about the shitty relationship I am in with this girl yet.
Another more obvious one is tire health. While it's not as important as a lot of things you mentioned, it can be a pain with certain cars to have to purchase a full set right after purchasing the car.
I know from experience, the 300zx I bought needed 2 235 40 R18s and 2 275 35 R18s (the tires on it were showing belts and one had a busted belt) and that would've been nearly $750 if I hadn't gotten a discount from the dealer.
When buying from a private party , I also judge a car by its owner .
More meticulous people take care of their investments . I also want to see if the car has the service records and the Original Owners Manual .
If you are buying a car with a rubber timing belt and there is no history of it ever being replaced , you could be on borrowed time if its an interference motor because if it breaks , you now have a 3,500 lb lawn Ornament.
Most rubber timing belts need replacing after about 70 k miles and every 70k afterwards.
So true. All the used cars I have purchased for myself, family, and friends, were from males over 50 years old. Never had a problem.
I also like to check for bubbles in the oil, particularly if the seller changed the oil. A good diagnostic/preventative action if you buy the car is to change all fluids, yes including diff/transaxle, ones too before deciding what to go in depth on if needed. The more mileage on the car the more you can expect to have to repair sooner than later.
I see you are using the BlueDriver! It’s an awesome tool. I was having an intermittent cooling fan issue on a Mustang GT this summer past and that tool was instrumental in allowing me to monitor the temperature as I drove to avoid ruining the engine. I changed the thermostat, radiator cap, had the radiator out and tested (good) and even replaced the cooling fan assembly with a new one from Ford. But the issue persisted. I was told it could be a head gasket but I had no symptoms for that. I was getting no codes for anything either. A ford tech looked at it with a Ford computer and was baffled. I was fixing to replace the PCM when I decided to disassemble the BEC (bussed electrical center) in the engine bay. Lo and behold there was my issue, a short in the connector to the high speed fan relay. I got a salvage BEC and a new connector and repinned the wires from the old connector into it and problem solved! Right before I had disassembled the
BEC the BlueDriver had started giving me an open fan circuit code. Worst issue I ever had to troubleshoot on a car but now it’s working great, well was, it’s winter stored now. Even the stereo sounds way louder and clearer and I was having an intermittent transmission flare issue that has gone away too. I had an issue in that BEC for a while that was interfering with voltages needed for other things like the transmission operation. It progressively got worst with the cooling fan issue. I put a lot of time into troubleshooting it, working on it myself, reading stuff online, etc. So glad I solved it and that the car did not catch fire!!
lol at number 4.. I'm sure that's fine in California but in the North East you won't find a car without rust under it unless its brand new. They heavily salt the roads in Pennsylvania and all the cars undersides have rust
That's why "excessive" rust was mentioned. Some rust is expected on the underside, how much obviously depends on location (climate) and vehicle age. Still, up to about 10 years old vehicles should have next to no rust. Manufacturers usually put 12 years of anti-rust warranty on cars (at least here in EU), so if it's rusted after 5 there's something wrong.
@@kenkalajdzic But (usually) that warranty only covers rusting though the metal from inside to out. So it really doesn’t cover any rust on the underside of the car. If you drive on the salted roads underside of 10 year old car will be rusty.
Ken Kalajdžič
Not everyone drives a BMW or Toyota.
Made in USA is not always an advantage.
STDrepository sucks to not be from California huh
@@krayzie281 Yes I am so jealous of you and your 4 dollar gas and homeless feces and syringe covered streets.
One thing to know about OBDII codes: not only do you want to check if there are any codes stored or codes being displayed, but you want to see if there are any pending codes and Not Ready statuses. If someone is trying to sell a car that has been throwing up codes and showing a check engine light, they may try to fudge it by clearing the codes themselves to make it appear to the buyer that there are no problems. There’s an easy way to tell if this is the case: plug in your scanner and check the I/M readiness section. If anything reads NOT READY or PENDING, it can absolutely mean that the owner is trying to hide something!
One thing you can use to check for rust is take a small magnet with you. If bondo has been used to hide rust, the magnet will not stick to it. In my younger days, I knew a fellow who moved from Michigan to Texas(where I live), bringing his 1969 Buick. This car had rust where you would not think a car could rust. After he got a new car, he bondoed the Buick up, had a cheap paint job put on it and sold it. Another person I know caught a body shop in a lie with a magnet. He had a truck he needed some paint work on and the body shop claimed the hood was aluminum and would cost more to paint. He stuck a small magnet to it. Magnets do not stick to aluminum.
that engine bay clean af ,,,good stuff
Great vid,thanks a lot! Gonna make a list of what you said as I’m looking for a secondhand car right now. Great timing for the vid. 👍🏼 Keep up the good work,thanks a lot.
Most of the issues he explained will show up after a good 15-20mins of driving mixed with slow and hard pulls. Remember any seller who really has nothing to hide will have that patience and understanding. But more importantly is to do a recheck after the test
Shut up I'm trying to sell my broken alfa romeo with a jumped timing chain here!
Dead af lol
does it have rust and leaks too?
My 159 has an appetite for timing chains too.
Christopher O'Grady UA-cam seriously needs a LMMFAO option. That’s hilarious 🤣
So it's just like every other Alfa Romeo after it lleaves the dealership...
Love your channel Jason!
Thank you so much, appreciate you watching!
My dad is a mechanic, so I learned most of this growing up, but awesome video! Lots of good information!
Awesome that he passed down the knowledge to you, great way to learn!
@@EngineeringExplained Yes sir! I love to learn anything I can about cars lol
Animated exhaust fumes is a horrible symptom of low blinker fluid. Usually more prominent in newer BMW models such as 435d of 320d
I use that same hand lamp, it's magnetized from the bottom so you can place it anywhere that is made out of metal. Thumbs up!
I’m buying an s2000 this weekend. This video will come in handy, thank you!
Congrats on the new ride, s2k is good fun!
Lucky. Lol
"perhaps someone bumped into the side of the garage..." Hmm I wonder who could have done that?? 😂
Thank you! My wife and I are looking at buying a cheap car to drive around Europe soon, so we're absorbing all the information we can find 😅
Hey Engineering, you forget if you see cool bursting flames shooting out the exhaust also a huge indicator of a no, no.
Plus all 4 wheels with a huge severely off camber is a huge not to buy.
I love your videos man! You explain everything so detailed and easy to understand as well, keep it up!
Thanks Mathias, I appreciate you watching! :)
Rev up your used car... oh wait wrong video😂
No cat pillow here.
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
@Sona Falk Don't do clean. Don't do unoffensive either.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Alot of people in Victoria Australia are buying Holden V8 Highway Patrol cars from Auctions.
A smart move on their part.
When I bought my used car I propped it up on a curb to make it a lot easier to crawl under to look for rust/suspension problems. Great video, did not know about the exhaust one, I'll have to use it next time.
If buying a classic car it might be normal for it to bellow out a big white cloud of smoke when its very cold outside and the engine is still cold. Also a few small leaks are common. But you still dont want to see gushing fluid or smoking very heavily even after its warmed up.
Car chem trails!!
Only Joking.
Recently discovered your channel and it’s great. Thanks for all you do to educate and inform!
Awesome to hear, thanks for watching and glad you’re enjoying it!!
Really like the pace and clarity of your presentation! Thanks!
Old car guy here. Old cars/trucks for old guy. Lots of very cool rides that all needed brakes, wheel bearings, transfer case, fuel pump/lines, fuel injectors, TPS, EGR, PCV, Coil driver, plugs & wires, synthetic oil when it even looks dirty and plenty of rust. They all made plenty of 100,000 mile odometer rollovers.
I love bass, no treble, but it's all about the oil, no trouble.
p.s. Love that 420 code. My repair procedure is personal, however. (O2 spacer and full bowl).
My '79 Z28 has 420 mechanical logic...windows automatically roll down some, depending on severity.
Hello Jason, Love your videos man !
Thanks Gilberto!
Great topic and great list to look for. Pretty much anything shiny under a normal car is bad ;) love your "Big Larry" light :) Those are awesome!
This channel is really exceptional. Very clean, understandable pronunciation AND really great information. The video quality is awesome as well. Glad that you are on UA-cam!
Good video sir
7:40 i see what you did there hahaha, great exhaust!
I admit I just take it to a 3rd party testing garage... It's quite standard round here.
I dodged a few bad ones this way
I also recommend taking your car to a free mechanic inspection after you buy it, just to bee absolutely sure. Because there might be something you missed that can be prevented by the mechanic with a small repair or guidance.
Also check the consistency in the gaps between the panels for signs it’s been in an accident. Don’t rely on a Carfax report! They’re are not always updated right away. We bought a used 2010 Charger in October 2010 with 19,000 miles from a Chrysler/Dodge/ Jeep dealer with supposedly a “clean” Carfax report. We did not have any accident with it but 4 years later when we traded it in at a different dealer they offered us a lower trade in value because the Carfax then was showing it was in an accident in 2010.
Can you give us a link to the OBDII scanner?
Sure thing! Here's what I use: amzn.to/2AwvtSQ
@@EngineeringExplained thank you!
look around on amazon...I only paid $20 for mine and its been working great for over 5 years.
@@bdanyluk but can it do OBD2 checks? I also bought one that was $20 but it cannot do those checks, it only does the different stats of the engine
@@EngineeringExplained Just curious what led you to choose this one over others or if you have tried others and this one eventually surpassed them? I know Apple compatibility can be scarce among the more affordable options from what I have seen. Thanks!
that's why in Germany we can go 300kph plus, because every car has to get inspection every two years, providing some basic level of road worthiness/safety. Also checking the service history might be a good tip?
cuteshadowKIA same in the us. Some states it’s every year. But if you “know a guy” or the shop is lazy, they can pass a car that shouldn’t be on the road.
@@Gandalf721 Not sure how "some" means a blanket statement but ok.
My 206 passed the inspection, that doesn't mean it can go 300kph plus... xD
@@asmoth360 We are talking about cars, to be fair, you got a Peugeot: :) +You should probably Upgrade then. 300kph is a minimum :D
@@cuteshadow I'm french, so I couldn't go to 300 anyway... Just wanted to highlight the fact that an inspection doesn't relate to the quality or performance of the car, it only means it's not a wreck 😂
These are excellent tips. Many of the newer cars no longer have dip sticks for checking the oil in the engine and or transmission. It would be a good idea to have a proper quality scan tool and go through the readings to view for any error codes. If the person is not proficient to properly check out a vehicle it is best for them to pay a qualified mechanic to check out the vehicle. If you can have access to a lift it is a good idea to check for loose ball joints, loose suspension parts, condition of the tie rods, struts, springs and shocks.
Make sure to look very carefully at all the body panels and at the spacing between panels. If the paint is wonky, or the gaps vary a lot, there's a good chance it's been in a collision and salvaged.
Get a very good mechanic to do a checkup. Then take care of the damn car.
Keep in mind that every used car has some problems. What is important is that they are not major and that you can fix them without spending lots of time and money. Plenty of a-holes that lie and want to scam someone into buying their poorly maintained car.
Agreed!
This is why I always change my oil every 3000 miles, and filter every six. Coolant changed every five. Have yet to reach the 10,000 for my transmission fluid in my newer car. Just keeping up on those things is a good way to make sure your car goes over 300,000 miles. Had a Toyota Solara with over 300,000 miles, and the only thing that failed was the Manifold 1 cat. converter.
@@joehutchcraft1675 I think you can get away with "normal" mantainance that is 7kmi for oil and filters. My dsg requires oil and filters every 40kmi. If you do it more often then great!
@@Gandalf721 I keep it as "factory" as I can. It is the 177hp so plenty of power for me. I also do little city driving so the standard interval is ok for me.
@@joehutchcraft1675
In all of the Mazda Rotary (The final being a series 2 RX7, the oil and filter were changed every 10,000 Km. The cooling system was straight coolant . No water. Gearbox oil was changed every 2 years. Over its life all the car needed was one universal joint. Exhaust system and Disk pads. No oil leaks whatsoever. I would use shoe polish even to keep door seals in good condition.
8:50 "P0420"
Basically happens when there's cannabis particles in the fuel tank.
your telling me you dont get high with your car
Ah yes finally found somebody noticing 420
We wish! The P0420 family (0420, 0421, 0430, 0431) are troublemakers. 0420/0430 are often exhaust leaks ahead of the converters (or even really dirty injectors) but could also be a bad converter. 0421/0431 seem to always be bad pre-converters. Trying to fix a P0420 or P0430 by blindly replacing the converter can take the car up a very dark alley. The code goes away because the new converter is just enough better to clear the code, but it comes back six months later when the new wears off and the problem gets worse. A second replacement lasts a month or two as the problem gets even worse.
I fixed the last P0420 in the family - my daughter's 2002 Sienna - by instructing her to use top tier gas. I cleared the code a week later and it didn't come back for nearly a year. She had gone back to random gas.
Get out $500 dollars my friend, you ready for a new "cat"!
I bought a 01 Camry 2.2 from a side shop somewhere near Dallas a year ago. From what I've heard, sellers will lie about things like "this car was owned by a mechanic's grandfather". I bought this car for wayyyy too much, and was sold to me for 216K miles. Fast forward six months of extreme engine lag, smoking, all the suspension falling apart, dirty interior and throwing multiple codes, I was finally about to give up on the car. That's when I was removing the passenger seat I found a center piece for the gauges, which is the speedometer/odometer combo. I slapped it into the cluster and the odometer read "354000". Upon buying a Carfax report, the vehicle had spend most of its life in Oklahoma until about 2015, with the last odometer reading "354000". For 4 years, the car was juggled back and forth between strange, unknown and potential criminal owners. The seller never gave me the title, I had to get it bonded.
To list the things I have so far replaced: the entire interior, most of the electricals, valve cover and gasket, alternator, starter (3 times), radiator twice, control arms and bushings, ball joints, CV axles, inner and outer tie rods, windshield wipers, EGR valve and corresponding connections, rear struts, battery, heater core (car didn't come with one; bought in February and it was 12 degrees every day), air-box and intake manifold, nearly all sensors in the engine bay, fuel pump, the entire exhaust system excluding the muffler, all five wheels (full size spare), driver door, and much more that can't come to mind right now.
I need to replace rack and pinion (loose steering), motor mounts (motor moves around), potentially the torque converter (the ATF is pitch black), transmission filter, oil pump and main seal, timing components and pulley system (380k miles on this car), charcoal canister and hoses, all hoses under the hood, a NEW radiator, a new hood, front hubs and wheel bearings, bumper, and headlight assemblies.
I should have been a little more responsible when buying the car but I needed something to take me out of town early the next morning.... When someone is selling a car, I found out the hard way that they're selling it for a reason! Check steering, fluid levels, history reports (carfax or maintenance records), engine codes or "not ready" sensors, check the color of the fluids, look for signs of uneven or extreme tire wear, check for rust underneath and bad bushings, and test drive with the radio off.
Nice video. I was a little surprised that it didn't include checking tires for excessive or uneven wear. Perhaps that's not a deal breaker, but it could affect the purchase price and is another easy way to check if the reality of the vehicle matches its advertised condition.