0:25 dont overfill or run dry ur gas 2:55 take care of your engine (don't drive all city miles; avoid short trips; warm up the car) 8:10 don't hang things where you shouldn't (don't hang things on shifters, steering, mirrors; 12:18 don't use "Windex" or glass cleaner on infotainment system screens/surfaces (ammonia harms touchscreens) 14:15 car floods: sunroof-drains (clean them) & windshield (improper replacement installation)
Funny, I actually got stopped last month cause I was performing a drive cycle on one of my cars to get it to pass inspection. He let me go when I told him. But he just thought I was being a wise ass.
Hi Bro. Does driving on low gear with high RPM above 3000 rev/sec or 4000rev/sec also qualify to be an Italian Tuneup? Because i can't get high rpm if I drive on the 7th gear auto on highway. Kindly advise. How do u perform an Italian Tuneup in your car?
One thing I do is, I get in the car and start the engine. Then I get comfortable, put on the seat belt, check the mirrors and the instrument panel, then I am good to go. I do this because, although it only take a minute, the oil pressure has built up all around the engine.
Agreed. My Brother in law volunteers at a sports car museum. They had a famous driver (can't remember his name) drive their cars on an open house day. First he did a walk around. Next started the car. Put on and checked his seat belt. Next he adjusted all the mirrors. Then he checked the gauges especially to check oil. Next he checked where all the control were and how he fit them i.e. shift stick, clutch and brakes. Ran the shifter through its pattern. Then he was ready to go. He did this for every car! I do a similar routine. The walk around is very important for safety. Are there small children in the street behind you that you couldn't see with your mirrors?
Have done everything you recommend, including a break in oil change on my 2022 Venza. I can't believe how fortunate I was to come upon this channel right when I bought my first Toyota. I change my oil religiously every 8k (5,000 miles) and will continue to follow the Car Care Nut advice. Thank you very much.
Bought a new 24 Camry three weeks ago. Drove gently during the first 1,000 mile break-in period. Always warmed up the car first. RPM was never over 3,000. Mostly driven between 25 mph to 55 mph. Did the first oil change at 50 miles, the second at 400 miles, and the third at 1,000 miles. Each time put in Toyota 0W-16 with a Toyota oil filter. And each time the oil looked golden before the oil change. And each time the drained oil looked completely dark in a clean glass jar, and even my 1,000 lums high-powdered flashlight couldn't shine thru. One thing for sure is that I'll need to change oil every 3000 miles for sure.
@kychristell1779 Although he knows what hes talking about some of the time, I often disagree with him. I have the experience and knowledge to easily match his having been in automotive repair for 51 years. I repair Toyotas (and all other cars) but i dont own one, and never will. I will, however flip them for profit.
@kychristell1779 I will try to keep it brief, but here is a short list of Toyota failure. 90s Camry 4 cylinders..Engine "oil gelling" issues which Toyota actually admitted to, but didnt issue a recall. 3.0V-6 engines used throughout the 90s in 4-Runners and trucks. These had well known head gasket as well as valve seat recession issues. Again, Toyota refused to recall them, but would replace the head gaskets for free ONE time IF customers complained excessively, and was never publicized. Prius brake issues. The regenerative brake system had glitches which caused several Prius to crash due to brake failure. Toyota stupidly refused to cooperate with a Federal investigation, earning them a record one billion dollar fine from the NTSB. Really dumb mistake..Badly designed throttle pedals on Camry models causing them to get caught on floor mats, resulting in partially or fully open throttle. Lower ball joints on first generation Tundra trucks, which would rust out and drop the front end on the pavement while driving. Poor heat treating of differential gears on trucks, causing failure. At one time it was nearly impossible to find used differentials at wrecking yards as the demand was so high for them. While certain vehicles and engines were very well made, such as the 22R and 22RE 4 cylinders, the 1980s era Camrys and the newer 3.4 V-6 engine, theyve had enough major issues that Im not overly enamored with Toyota. The majority of automatic transmissions used in Jeep Cherokee models were sourced from Toyota, and they have proven to have few issues, even when ill maintained. Not so true of the Peugeot sourced BA-10 manual transmission used in the Cherokee. While I repair late model vehicles regularly, my daily drivers are 39 and 47 year old Fords devoid of electronic systems except for electronic ignition which has only two easily replaced components. I can easily repair my vehicles on the side of the road if ever necessary. As far as Honda/Acura, the rest of the vehicle will fall apart before the engine does, If COMPLETE timing belt service is done AND the engine is never allowed to overheat. Dont ever change JUST the timing belt..do the complete service with idlers, water pump and tensioner. This applies to ANY vehicle with a timing belt regardless of manufacturer. Vehicles with timing chains should have the hydraulic tensioner serviced.
I learned the one about the too many keys hanging from the ignition switch when I went to Auto Tech classes in 1977 to 79. Our instructor was a seasoned mechanic that told us of a customer who came in complaining that is car died every time he went over the railroad tracks. he handed them the key and for a few visits, they were never able to duplicate the problem until finally on the third or fourth visit, when they handed him back the key, they just happened to see him put it back on his keychain with about 30 other keys. He said lets take a test drive with all those keys, and they were then able to duplicate the problem.
I learned it from having a GM car that was in the recall for ignition switch problems. Their "fix" was a little slip of paper to add to your owner's manual telling you not to have anything hanging from your key while driving. Since then I've always had my car key on a latch so I can easily remove it from the rest of my keyring.
Hey ,,, that 's a good one ! Part of my job was Car stereo installation and I Can remember several times the customer had Humongous things, (like Trolls?), on the keychain. One time I had to use one hand to Lift all the junk back while the other hand turned the ignition Switch! Lol
@@WestZ I went to Hartnell College in Salinas, but I am familiar with De Anza in Cupertino. After I lived in Salinas Valley, I lived in San Jose for about 10 years before moving to Vancouver, Washington.
@@MoNoShocks damn, small world! Seems like the great grandfather auto techs of the 70s and 80s have the same war stories 😂. Hope all is well in the PNW!
I have a 3.6 VVT engine in my 07 Cadillac CTS and I absolutely love it! I’ve heard many people complain about these engines, but I’ve never had the least problem with mine, not one! But I’m always changing the oil in it and there’s nothing but the best complete synthetic oil! I change my oil at half the intervals that the owners manual says it should be changed! So I keep good oil with it at all times, and it doesn’t use our league or burn a drop of oil and it purrs like a kitten, as if it was still new! But I believe it’s very very important to keep the oil change very Regularly and these engines, especially that one I’m told!
I am glad you addressed windshield issues. I got a crack a little while ago on my windshield on my 200 LC. Didn’t think anything about it because where I am from in Canada almost everyone has a cracked windshield because of ice and the city sanding the roads. Once the snow started to melt and roads got slushy I noticed my fog lights would stay on even when headlights were off. Took it into the dealership they couldn’t find the problem after running it through the car wash 4 times. It was good for about 2 weeks and then we got rain the problem was back except now the door sensors were acting funny but this time it was on and off and it turns out the windshield was leaking and it took 4 months to get a new windshield in. Fun stuff but don’t sit on a cracked windshield.
learned this the hard way down south of you. I got unlucky and a rock hit my windshield on the highway, and while I was setting aside money to have it filled, temperature fluctuations grew the crack from "maybe I can just get this filled" to "you need a replacement windshield," it sucks
1 don't run the fuel tank low, it kills the fuel pump. Also don't overfill your tank, use the recommended gas: e85, premium, etc. 2 know the basics about your car, will guide your maintenance. Ie if you have direct injection, you need a once a week Italian tune up. Also if you drive short distances this also applies. Avoid short trips. If you have a turbocharged engine: maintenance is critical, especially oil change. Avoid long oil change intervals: cut the manufacturers intervals in half (they only apply to specific use scenarios. 3 don't hang things on things that are not hangers: hanging a bag on the shifter, steering column, rear view mirror. This kills the mechanism = LT damage. don't have too many things on your keychain, it wears the cylinder. 4 don't use windex (ammonia based cleaners), it kills touch screens and tints immediately 5 car floods, that are internal. Especially sun roof leaks, clogged sun roof drains. Otherwise poor windshield replacement / poor seals.
What this video forgot to mention is the car brands KNOW you want to keep your tank 100% full. So they design the entry port so that the nozzle is at a slightly steeper angle. This raises the tip a little bit so you can safely squeeze another quart in before it shuts off. Like so many of the tips on this video, you could avoid these issues if you read your dang instruction book! I read mine and the last two cars I've owned said the angle of the port is steeper so the tank is 99.99% full. Both had in big bold letters: "DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR TANK." It said once the nozzle clicks, it's full. Don't try to squeeze the handle a second time!
@@largol33t12Rather than forgotten, I think the tip about not over filling the tank was reduced to layman's terms for non technical types that don't care about the fluid dynamics. Problem is owners manuals have gone from 30 pages to 300 pages with a separate 500 page manual for the infotainment and they over warn about common sense. They have a lot of words directed to 12 people who were not savy enough to get out of jury duty.
@@MoNoShocks Not entirely correct - they have a lot of words directed at 12 people who did tremendously stupid things with their cars that caused an expensive problem who then threatened to sue the manufacturers.
The Car Care Nut is the only person I trust on YT. He speaks in detail topics that NOBODY else on YT talks about. All these other Car Review channels just read scripts and really know nothing about them! Koodos to The Car Care Nut for a successful 2023 and to a bright 2024!
Not correct, John Cadogan tells it like it is. He’s an engineer. His review on the PHEV Mitsubishi Outlander was outstanding. Him and 2 other engineers reviewed it on his channel.
@@ricksanford6485I disagree I love Scotty and think he hilarious. Sure he has a bias with Toyotas but can you really fault him for his opinions? And honestly I think it’s brilliant with his click bait. I’ve learned a bit through him as well as other mechanics channels.
I worked on my own cars for years, prior to computerized engines. You have great content for the novice and intermediate knowledge level, which is needed. $$$ saved.
Please listen to this man! As a collision technician, myself, please stop hanging your handicap placards from the mirror while driving. First, it’s illegal (says so on the card), but I see a lot of collisions happen because drivers create a blind spot and couldn’t see.
My father was a retired diesel and gasoline senior Master technician. He taught me everything automotive, but a channel like this provides updates as automobiles have dramatically changed over the decades. I am able to manage an automotive repair shop, my 3rd career after military retirement, but also educate customers. These are excellent points made by AMD. Thank you once again!
No.1 Trade in your 2004 instead of just fixing it. No. 2 Keep the gasoline BETWEEN 1/4 and 3/4. If you let it go to click point. It will kill the evap module. No. 3 Change the oil more often than required to past the warranty point. No. 4 flush the tranny and coolant system as required. 3 & 4 are good for the turbo too. Who taught me? My Department of the Navy Machinist uncle. Ever seen a Pinto with original engine and automatic transmission with 250,000 miles on it? Oh and those never got wrenched on. He also bought Oil and Tranny fluid by the barrel. Probably a big no-no in the Californication state now. Then returned those back in the same barrel to the recyclable operator. Start with a full one and a empty one.
Wow…does this hit home! I just had fuel induction cleaning on my 2021 CX5 with 28K miles on it. 99% of the time i drive is in town short trip driving. I was STUNNED at how immediately my mpg on my gauges went from 21 mpg to 26 mpg and how quickly it starts up. I will for sure take my little car for a run down the interstate once a week to blast out the filth. Thank you!
@@edryba4867 Nope. There is a service called “Fuel INDUCTION service” that cleans carbon deposits and gunk. They clean the throttle body, fuel injectors, intake valves, manifold, and air intake. It takes a little time, but WOW what a difference it made with my CX5. It wasn’t terribly expensive either…I think it was right around 160-180 bucks.
Absolutely, unequivocally the best auto channel, in my opinion on youtube. Seriously, there's not 1 video you make. I don't enjoy that's saying something I watch a lot of youtube.
I’m a retired mechanic and this is my favorite U Tube channel. Anyone fortunate enough to live near this guy’s shop has got it made if they drive a Toyota or Lexus.
Watching you naturally Improv these videos the way you do is pretty cool. Your knowledge of cars is incredible, but your ability to articulate these things to the masses is the best!
I'm not surprised this channel has grown so fast. You give sound advice, come across as sincere and seem like you truly care about the average person out there taking care of their car. Here's to 1M subs soon!
I do these things. Oil change every 5,000 miles I also run fuel system cleaner with every oil change. Cabin filter every 6 months (lots of pollen and dirt in my area) Engine air filter every 30,000 miles (though I do check it every oil change just to ensure it's in useable condition) I am very vigorous about checking for transmission fluid change intervals. My car calls for every 36,000 miles. I will do every 30,000 because I don't want any problems. Brakes, I am very good at feeling brakes and will change them when most people wouldn't. I like the ability to stop very quickly if need be.
I love my 2019 Tundra, yes it’s a V8, and yes it’s thirsty, I know about the fuel pump thing. But i never let it get below 1/2 tank. A 38 gallon gas tank is quite expensive on empty. 😊
Good stuff! I'm a huge fan of doing a break-in oil change. I've done this at 1000-1500 miles on every new vehicle I've ever purchased, and every 5000 miles thereafter, with a quality synthetic oil. This simple rule has served my vehicles very well for decades.
Very few newer vehicle owner manuals include early first oil change requirements. My first oil change in my 2024 Supra will be after one year (4000 miles or slightly less). The first oil change in our now 19.5 year old Lexus was at 5000 miles. It still runs perfectly with over 140,000 miles.
@@davepaturno4290 What most people don't realize is that modern maint intervals, as recommended by manufacturers, are heavily influenced by environmental concerns, not best practices for vehicle longevity and reliability. I have no problem with trying to prevent unnecessary waste, which is why longer maint intervals exist today, but my top concern is protecting the long term reliability of my investment. That said, if you have a vehicle made by a quality brand, following the owner's manual won't likely cause any problems, but I'd rather be aggressive with my maint than to have any possibility of premature mechanical failures. More frequent fluids changes are cheap insurance, in my opinion.
I bought a new 01 tacoma 4 cyl new - have always done oil changes regularly - originally at 3000 miles; now with better oils, i go 5k. The truck has 225k on it now and never uses a drop of oil between changes and runs exactly like it did when new. One great truck, but you have to consider oil changes an investment in the car's future.
I'm the original owner of a factory ordered 1995 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. At 195,000 i just replaced the injectors, O2 sensor, starter, alternator, MAP. IACV. The throttle body cleaned. I always changed oil every 3,000 miles. Trans and transfer case every 50,000. It idles perfect. Zero oil consumption. I take it off road, light 4wd. I recently had the windscreen replaced, this is #3. The last one lacked sealant on a top edge. The new installer pointed it out. He was proud of his work. Selling next year to a lucky new owner.
Yep...had windshield replaced and opted for OEM only. They had stock windshields, but I accepted the minor cost upgrade and waited a day or two for it. Tech came to the house and told me he was glad I opted for OEM. Perfect install every time and there are no clarity issues with OEM. My experience.
Excellent video as usual. For preventing flooding I would also consider to clear the firewall well of any leaves. You might need to take off the window wiper arms to get there, but it might be worth it.. Greasing up the connecting arms when you are in there is also a good idea.
I agree. I had a '90 Dodge Grand Caravan which needed attention in this area. This car was parked outdoors under incense cedar trees which drop their scale-like needles as small bits. Those bits easily passed into the "well" and slowly clogged the drain tube, causing water to collect and then overflow and leak into the cabin floor. Once clogged, it wasn't too hard to clear with compressed air, an easy DIY if you have a compressor. But still, better to avoid the water overflow by making sure that the drain system is clear before the start of rainy season. Fortunately, my Sienna does not have this problem. Thank you Toyota!
With regards to the "flooding" without the flood, may I add that the cowl panel (gutter under the windshield) is also another source of flooding if left unchecked. Dead leaves, insects, gunk get squeezed inside it which eventually clogs the small drain on each side of the cowl panel. In time water will build up then overflow into the aircon duct (correct me if I'm wrong)😊 which will trickle down in the front passenger side.
My spouse bought a fantastic new Mazda. The maintenance interval seemed so long I finally said I don’t trust a car to not be observed by a mechanic for more than 6 months. Glad to hear you agree after I pushed the issue and made the appointment. Was hoping I’m not a totally out of touch old school car guy.
I always keep my wife’s RAV4, my Corolla and my GX460 in full. Once the clicker stops at the pump, I place the cap back on. Once 1/4 of the fuel is consumed we refuel back again and the tank is always full. An emergency where to arise we jump in the vehicle and on the road we go. Thanks for the video. Take care!
sounds like they see enough use that it's not a problem, I'm more on the "leave enough gas in the tank to get to the gas station and fuel up when I need to drive somewhere/consider pouring fuel stabilizer in the tank between drives" end of the spectrum
@@xXx_Regulus_xXxmjne is a similar approach. Whenever I see that I have around 100-150km left in the tank, I go refuel. In case of an emergency situation, 100km is far enough where I can find a gas station around in Europe. 😊
Thanks for your explanation on the fuel pump issue. I always fill to the top but usually don't fill till near empty. Have never had a failure from any vehicle in 40 years of driving but didn't know I was doing any harm either.
the "low fuel level kills pumps" thing is a bit of a myth. Running it OUT of gas will kill your pump if you do it regularly. The only time your fuel pump is submerged is when the tank is 3/4 or higher, depending on the dimensions of your fuel tank. Your fuel pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it, not around it, so as long as you don't regularly run it OUT of gas then you aren't harming it. When you run out of gas your pump will run dry and continue to run dry which is definitely going to kill it. However, running it low on fuel but not completely out, will not damage the fuel pump.
I'm still old school and I do my oil changes at 3,000 miles with synthetic oil and factory filter. I've never have seen an engine go bad changing the oil too often. Thanks for your video..
@@terrycrews1760 There are many factors (driving style, turbos, weather extremes) that can effect when you should change your oil. Many videos that have actually sent oil samples out for analysis at various change intervals, after normal non-extreme driving, indicate that a good oil (like a synthetic) begins to exhibit noticeable wear at ~ 10k miles. And some manufacturers recommend 10K oil changes but realize that they only warranty the power train for 60K miles. Old school (pre 1990) oil changes were recommended at every 3k miles but oil and filters have greatly advanced beyond those recommendations. While it may be a little premature to change synthetic oil every 5k miles or every year whichever comes first, it is not that expensive and should give you peace of mind that you are doing your best to ensure a long engine life.
You should be fine, that's the maximum mileage I'd wait, especially if you're running a turbo. Needless to say that a new oil filter should be fitted at the same time. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.@@terrycrews1760
The fuel that _goes thru_ the pump, cools it. The pump sits in a cup that is always full of fuel, because a small regulated amount returns to the cup. The example you show illustrates it perfectly. I've changed hundreds of them, they all hold about 10oz of fuel in the cup. Been that way since the mid 90's.
Lol, I remember driving through Starbucks with a random waterfall coming from my roof. I was so confused and embarrassed. I learned about these drains on youtube and it was luckily an easy fix of removing debris from the gutters.
Thanks for all the wonderful info. I’m a 75 year old single woman who doesn’t know much about cars. Last year I bought a Prius prime because I wanted to be environmentally responsible. I’ve watched most of your videos so I can properly care for my car. You are a jewel.
My wife constantly almost runs out of fuel. Oddly she never has, so I can never get it through to her why you shouldn’t do it. This confirms my frustration.
Was taught all this by my Dad. I do love big engines most women dont know or care but I do. I always keep gas up. Always take car on the road and hit it at least once a week. I have nice road I can let it run and I do. Had big Lincolns V8s Caddys V8 and now drive a 5.7 hemi. It loves to run. Keep junk off the dash and car knobs, buttons and shifters. Change oil @ 6 months and always check water and air in my tires. Keep eye on battery level. All good advice. Am 70 now but most young dont seem to know or care. Great advice, thanks
I’m so happy I found this channel. I’m buying my first Lexus next year and I’ve been doing a deep dive on new cars because my last new car was a Saturn Vue in 2005!! I feel like I’m driving a rocket ship when I test drive the new cars. I’m doing my best to educate myself as much as possible even before buying rhe new vehicle and this channel has helped me a lot. There are many things I do know and oh so many don’t. Like overfilling your gas. I always fill to the next dollar etc. overfilling it. Never thought of it as a problem until see these videos. I will never do it again.
This guy is a legend. He just actually is a car care nut and wants to save you money. ie. his oil change recommendation. Would love to know your thoughts on the new crazy low weight oils, especially on engines like the 1gr-fe that used to recommend heavy oil.
In the FJ cruiser, they seem to recommend diffrent oil weights for diffrent countries. I am convinced it has more to do with pollution regulations than what is good for your engine. I run 5-w30 as I do not have extreme temperatures in either direction to deal with, and there are plenty of people with 300,000+ mile FJ engines running it.
Most technicians are not going to have an opinion on light oils for example outside of the manufacturer recommendations, Project Farm on U-Tube done testing comparing the light oils verses the heavier versions, and even though the testing favored the heavier oils, since he has a large audience he wouldn’t recommend anything different than manufacturer recommended oils, I won’t use the light ECO oils outside of my vehicle’s warranty period, excessive oil consumption and premature engine wear is attributed to these from all the research I’ve done!
I built an ls engine years ago after being familiar with old small block Chevys. When I measured the bearing clearance I almost panicked, instead of .002 to .0025 I measured.001 to .0015, this is within spec and worn out is .002 to .0025, worn out on an ls is new spec on an older engine. Moral of the story use the oil the manufacturer recommends, it is the correct oil for the tight tolerances of modern engines. Measurements are in inches.
Vehicles with VVT need lighter oils because the oil has to do double duty as it lubricates and acts as a hydraulic fluid! Now, with the popularity of turbochargers, the oil has to do triple duty, lubricant, hydraulic fluid, and coolant!! Use the correct oil and keep it clean!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
All else being equal, heavier oils will protect better due to a thicker film. But not all else is equal. A lot of lower weight oils make up for that with their additives...
Amd, you’re 💯 right on the sunroof drain. Exactly what you said would happen, happened on our Sienna. Now we have electrical issues and a messed up interior. Keep up with those drains folks!
I did 10k mile oil changes for 2 years wish I had learned that you need to do it every 5k miles when I got it but I listened to the car. Thank you for the tip about Windex had no idea and totally something I would have done.
I always did my own oil changes and never followed Mfg guidelines and never exceeded 3000 miles. Because of this I never had any major engine issues , never had to rebuild an engine, and achieved multiple 100K miles on all cars. Oil is cheaper than engine jobs .
Some years ago, I had an '07 Altima. Started hearing water sloshing around in the driver's side door. Found a rubber drain plug at the bottom of the door, pulled it and watched a few gallons of water come out! I was somewhat amazed that I didn't have any issues with the electronics in the door. I probably would have if I hadn't addressed it quickly after noticing.
I have a 2007 Avalon, 2Gr fe. It has 92k miles. I love to give it an "Italian tune-up" not all the time, but at least weekly. When that engine is approaching 6k rpm's it sounds glorious to me, kinda like the sound of a jet engine spooling up. 😊
@@efil4kizum It is a thrill, and the car likes it too! If you're in the Camp of scoffing at the Avalon as a boring old car, you'd be wrong. It has the heart of a lion.
I have an 2011 Acura TSX and live very close to work, but I drive to a large city every week to visit my kids and grandkids that is 76 miles away, so it gets some road miles too. I can't wait to do the italian tuneup next time!
Yep! I ran into that with my 2000 Trans am with my t-tops. A 🤏🏻 small twig got into one of my drains for the t-top. Now what I've been doing since that happened is I pull the t-tops off 2 months and clean and lubricant all the rubber seals, whipe down the channels and blow out the drains with compress air.
True and very well explained. Just want to share one advice from my personal experience. Those diy sound/dust proofing rubber seal strips for the doors, trunk and bonnet. They worked great in reducing the amount of dust and wind noise in the cabin but it didn't cross my mind that the seal around the bonnet was doing more harm than good. It basically prevented effective dissipation of heat in the engine bay and that somehow caused a premature death of the battery. It could have been worse if I hadn't noticed this soon enough.
Former detailer, to clean your infotainment screens and your gauge clusters just use water (Distilled water highly recommended) spray the water on the screen and the cluster, let it soak in and then gently wipe the screen and cluster with a microfiber cloth. This’ll help minimize scratches and it’ll keep your infotainment working.
Distilled water and a quality micro fibre cloth will easily remove even greasy marks and finger prints from the entertainment screen and windows! At home on our house windows I just use distilled water and a micro fibre cloths it will remove any dirt or marks and it leaves perfectly clean glass!
God Bless you and your family too...2024 and beyond. I enjoy your videos. I used your review of the CX 50 turbo and also the video about turbos. I decided on the non turbo model.
Can confirm. My wife's I4 GDI did nothing but 1 mile trips for years and it had a persistent trouble code relating to the catalytic converter. Never did take it to the shop since was still working and there is no mandatory inspection where I live. Long story short, once it started being driven longer distances that code cleared on its own. Had a later problem with weak engine performance after it sat idle for six months and I took it to the shop. The mechanic told me my gas had gone bad which caused the computer to go haywire tweaking parameters to improve fuel combustion, and that it also had a terrible carbon buildup. Solution was to a full tank of premium and to take it on high-speed a road trip to burn off the carbon. It's been running like a charm ever since.
Italian Tune-up is also needed for battery maintenance if all the daily driving consists of short, street driving. Battery doesn't get properly charged unless the vehicle is ridden continuously over 60 mph and at or above 2500 RPMs for 30 minutes or more.
Merry Christmas AMD, TCCN Team and 918,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!!🎄🎄 If you live in the Salt Belt, Number 1 should be , NEVER forget to rust proof the nice new car you just spent a fortune on!!!!😁
2:40, for the most part, yes, I agree with this. However, when your vehicle comes with a turbo I would suggest using premium even though the manufacturer suggests regular, a turbo will benefit from the more accurate combustion timing from premium and will rely far less on the monitoring systems implemented to reduce knock
For the screen, I installed a screen protector that doesn't affect the touch sensitivity. It makes it easier to keep the screen clean. And always try to use microfibers to prevent scratching.
I wish the police would crack down on that ! When I was growing up, it was the dice hanging from the mirrors. Now it’s the cell phones mounted right in their view! I saw one FULL SIZE IPad mounted right on top of his dashboard!
Been doing glass for a few years now. Big company, mom and pop shop, and back to big company. I gotta say, I’ve seen it all. “My neighbor put this backglass in for me for $50, it started leaking but we dont know why.” Push on the glass to find cheap silicone or old butyl. “I hear whistling and thumping from my windshield when I drive” last guy never primed the glass. Go to help a rookie who cant get a windshield out, last guy laid a 3 inch wide bead of glue all around the pinchweld. Or the one that really hurt, doing a windshield for a car that was less than three years old, pull the glass, it was done before, last guy used a power tool all around and didnt treat the metal, rust all around the pinch. Had to stop working and tell the customer they needed to tow it to a shop to fix the issue and that I cannot install the windshield until then. Also for newer vehicles with ADAS equipment on the windshield, DEMAND OEM!!! Especially if its through insurance. Almost all manufacturers have released statements that the vehicle requires it, but more importantly when it comes to calibration after replacement, its less common to fail than aftermarket glass.
Ive windered why aome cars get sludge build up in the oil passages and valleys . They say its lack of oil changes for one due to evaporation. But i recently seen two elderly ladies (customers) who only dtive them to the corner stire . Never get warmed up . That can also create sludge . Good advice . Thanks. .
Been a mechanic over 20 and I agree with every point you touch on and have told people this for years, especially about OIL CHANGES. Hopefully with capital letters someone might get it. Also about hanging things on the switches and a heavy key ring. Several times they wanted a warranty on a switch but they drove it in even telling me that they can't hang something because it's broken now... Well... They broke it amd that's not warranty. Keep up the good advice to people and hopefully most will listen.
So I’ve been wondering about this and curious if you might have an opinion, on the 2024 CX-5 which apparently has carbon build up, is it a dumb or a bad thing to run, let’s say only a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment every couple fill ups and during the red line periods to try to help with the carbon build up.
@@guitarplayer4429 my stance on gas additives is this, it can't hurt to put an additive every other tank or so, they are lubricants and detergents, preventative things, however by no means a fix for something. Some say they have fixed their car with it, but I have personally never seen a car fixed with an additive not once in my life even with the car that was claimed to be put in. Maintenance.... I personally do what you are asking every few tanks for the exact reason you're asking about.
I own a 2015 2.2 Diesel CX-5 & know a good bit about this. Just had my engine inlet manifold de-cocked after 105K miles (Waaaay too late) , should have been done around 50K miles in my opinion. This is despite always adding a quality fuel aditive and taking it for long runs every now and then. Also, carbon blocked some of the sensors & needed replacing@@guitarplayer4429
I use a carabiner to coral keys on my purse. A separate carabiner has just the car and house key for car and walking cuz the heavy keychain drives me crazy and is too heavy. Glad I was doing that right.
@@guitarplayer4429 I put in a " gas treatment '" in my gas every few tanks. I will completely disagree with someone that says it fixes anything, but for preventative maintenance.... It's what I personally do. Putting some detergent in the fuel from my experience is good
Great that you’re expanding car care beyond just Toyota Lexus. It’s unfortunate that most people don’t know how to maintain a vehicle. DIY is rarer today than in decades past. Just adding gas and driving. Not even checking the dipstick or battery.
Part of the reason for less DIY is that cars are also more complex and more electrical/computerized. I know people who do work on the side on older cars but won't touch newer ones due to the complexity.
In the old days fuel pumps were mounted on the engine block. I remember replacing a few on my '70's cars. I've had the luxury of having friends who were Auto Mechanics/Technicians who told me in the early days of gas tank mounted fuel pumps "the gasoline keeps your fuel pump cool". They suggested to keep the gas tank always above 1/4 full. This was after my 1984 Dodge Daytona had to have it's fuel pump replaced, because I'd wait for the "idiot" fuel light to come on before re-fuelling. I was young (and a bit broke), but not stupid, I just didn't realize fuel pumps had moved from the engine block to the gas tank and the impact that had. When I get below half a tank now, I just fill it up... it's EZ fuel pump maintenance. 😄👍 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to You and your family.❤❤
One thing that has improved massively in cars in recent years is the Engine oil. When I started driving the oil change was set at 6000 miles, most car engines died at around 60k miles. Now the improved oils and engines come with a specified 28k miles change period for Diesel , and a life expectancy of 500k miles+. Never go cheap on engine oil, buy the best that is specified. I have only once used a cheap oil, from a discount store, the result was a seized engine.
As a Car Detailer for many years I agree with windex, DON’T use Windex at all in your car, period! Be very careful with a lot of these new cars and their recycled plastics can be easily damaged.
While in college my wife and I both had newish civics. Mine had a key that was to close to the steering wheel and my keys would get stuck in the area between the steering wheel and column. Her Civic we lemon pawed because the sunroof drains plugged and molded the interior. Funny to hear both of those things here!
I watched a few Scotty videos but couldn’t tolerate the overly exaggerated animation and constant yelling. CCN is MUCH more informative all while having a pleasant personality and demeanor. Obviously many others agree as AMD now has over 1 M subscribers, congratulations!
I watch car nut becuz I value his opinions and he is a REAL technician. I’ve been working on cars since 1974. Working for new dealership for 42 yrs. I did work from bumper to bumper so I know a few things about vehicles. One thing I’ve to add is, the less one pushes his engine the better. Unless one knows the engine is in top shape and well maintained, many parts under the hood can suffer from high RPM, such as timing chain, every bearings, pressure in cooling system, transmission, water pump , air conditioner just to name a few. No, they may not break on you right away but it will cost you money sooner, worse yet, break down at the worst moment.
I never used to believe in overfilling the gas tank being a bad thing. However, last month I kept getting a P0442 code on my mazda 3. According to the forums its either gas cap or the cannister vent valve located above the subframe. Only thing I've stopped doing since the code was on for several months was I stopped overfilling the tank but stopped as soon as the lever flicked at the pump. The light cleared by itself 2 weeks ago and hasn't been an issue since. Previously it would be on and off anytime I overfilled the tank. So guys, do not overfill!
Now on short trips I will move the shifter from automatic to the standard shift side and hold it in a lower gear to keep the rpm higher. That way I can get the Italian tune up without the ticket.
A superb video. 2008 SAAB 9-5 since new. -Always put the mandated premium fuel in the tank. -Always change the Mobil 1 0w-40 every 3-4,000 miles. -Always change the engine air filter with every oil change. -Always change cabin air filter every 12, 000 miles. I live in the city and am often forced to park under trees. Every week I clear out leaves. I also stop by my mechanic every month for him to blowout the sunroof drain. Lately I haven't been using thr car much, but make sure to drive it on the highway and do a longer run ever 7-10 days. The SAAB now has 135,000 miles, with no issues of which you speak. And it's turbocharged. My next car--and hopefully that will be years down the road--will be a normally aspirated Toyota or Lexus ES. To date since new, I've spent $5,300 on all labor, parts and fluids...including exhaust and suspension. That's $5,300 in over 15 years.
@@phillipbanes5484 Thanks Phillip. My indy SAAB master tech is 30 miles from my home. I'm in that area occasionally and do service when needed. I bring him my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 ($14 after rebate at Walmart) , Mann oil filter ($5) and Mann air filter ($10) and he changes all for $25. Not bad for a synthetic oil change for $54. It's also a matter of convenience. I unfortunately do a lot of stop and go city driving, which also hastens more frequent changes.
13:30 OEM touchscreens are expensive because their size is arbitrary, so its a low volume production item, and they also have to not freeze in winter weather so their composition is a little different.
Yes automotive grade is a lot different than consumer grade with electronics. Ask Tesla they had screens in the model s failing early on when they decided to use consumer grade screens.
Thanks for very helpful video. Tip. Check your windshield washer functionality to make sure both washer spray heads work after windshield replacement. Guess what. Sometimes when the place new windshield on car they can pinch your washer hose UNDER the edge of the windshield glass! Don’t ask me how I know. This happened to me and my son’s car. Before we drove away from shop, I asked my son to actuate his windshield washer. He did and one of sprayers didn’t work!! Pinched under glass. My son was amazed. How did I know!?! 😂
Thanks for these tips! I didn't think that my occasional punching of the engine to get to freeway speed on the on-ramp was helping the engine in terms of carbon buildup because otherwise I don't accelerate aggressively at all to save fuel and general wear and tear.
You do not need to accelerate agressively. Just driving a long distance with 70 miles/h will burn the coal clean off. With long I mean several hours. I've never got expensive repairs on y diesel turbo car. Not in 200000 miles. Not even with the distribution chain (not a belt). But the car drove 4-8 times a year for 13 hours on a day. With this 70 (to 90, Germany has no limit) milesph (120-150 km/h). Oil changes once a year...it was never black when checked in between , not a lot of metal dust in the oil). Max acceleration I only do when I want to pass another car when not on highways.
I was taught the Italian tune-up when I was a teenager. My mom would get mad that I would do it. I explained to her why to do it and how often and she sort of accepted it...but she doesn't ever do it herself.
My Corolla uses regular but I put premium in and I notice it has a decent amount more power and slight increase in driving range. Up hills the car will downshift and rev high with regular but premium the car stays in a higher gear and struggles less.
14:45. Thank God a fellow car guy explained sunroof design and operation accurately!!! This is why all those 80s/90s aftermarket sunroof installs leaked so bad over time.. they tried to seal the actual roof instead of guttering it away like the OEMs do And don't glue or attach anything to your fn AIRBAGS!! So many Mercedes customers come into our shop with decorative rhine stones or other things on the steering wheel airbags and emblems.. literally adding shrapnel to the bomb bolted in front of them.. airbags are great and effective when they are allowed to pop without shrapnel in them 😂
All excellent points and advice. I keep topping the tank - I seem to have self worth tied to it somehow. My old convertible - like the sunroof idea - if you take the top cloth off - it is literally like an eve-trough around the cabin area - and it is nothing fancy, a metal trough or channel and if you drive in winter or leave it outside or drive it in a bad rainfall - it is like camping in a tent with the rain driving at whatever speed you drive that car. I had to get very good at top repair and I increasingly did not like that design at all for when I could see it when fixing things up. I always omitted the sunroof in cars (I remember my Dad installing a sunroof in the Civic I eventually bought - but that design it stood up about an inch and the sunroof top would cover it like a dome - and it was not perfect - as I had to replace the seal every couple years). I am often tempted to get a sunroof - it is perception as many people will just not get a car without one - but thus far I have always said "a model without the sunroof" (they were very bad from crashes as well - maybe seatbelt use solved that).
You haven't quite got it right. The real problem with short runs is they don't allow the engine to warm completely. Ignition blow-by, that occurs with EVERY piston compression stroke, causes unburned fuel, moisture, and exhaust gasses to accumulate in the cold oil of the crankcase of the engine, gets dissolved in the cold oil, and significantly degrades its lubricating ability, causing premature wear. Oil takes several more miles than engine coolant to get to operating temperature (~200-deg. F.), and many more miles to boil off this accumulated unburned fuel, moisture, and exhaust gasses. Constant short commutes is considered SEVERE SERVICE, and is the primary cause of oil degradation and sludge build-up. A mere full-throttle burst of speed may blow out some of the accumulated soot within the cylinders, but does essentially NOTHING to boil off this accumulated unburned fuel, moisture, and exhaust gasses that short commutes deposit within your oil. The solution is longer weekly runs at highway speeds (minimum 20-miles, or even more in cold weather), as well as more frequent oil changes, as specified in your owner's manual for SEVERE SERVICE. Also, the glass quality is NOT what causes the leaks! You DON'T need to pay a premium for OEM glass. The quality of the installation with the required polyurethane adhesive is what would cause an aftermarket glass installation to leak. All glass leaks around the seal at the edge, unless it's broken...!!!
I didn't know that finer detail on the "Italian tune-up." Granted a 30+ mile highway commute each way I figured kept the vehicle humming better, but maybe it is time I push the humble Camry a little harder some days.
@@Mastr-Tech Uh, NO. 3000rpm is winding most diesels high except a few in passenger cars. Peugeot had a high rpm diesel and even it wasnt close to redline on a gasoline engine. Take a look at the tach redline on most light duty diesel trucks. 3000-3500 is about the limit. Even less for big diesels, even the 2 stroke "screaming" Detroits. Sorry you dont have the experience I do. Youll learn...maybe.
Hearing you talk about the ignition key thing reminded me of my old '89 Caprice. I could start the car, pull the key, get out, lock it, and pop into the convenience store with it still running in the middle of winter. The '86 Bonneville I had before still had the separate ignition and door keys, so the trick wasn't needed. I miss those days. But, that's what remote start is for now.
My dad altered the ignition in my Dodge 600 by shoving the key in upside down years ago and getting it back out. His Ford key was double sided. Fortunately it did not damage the ignition and gave me a new function of being able to pull out the key while it was still running, locking it, running in to drop things off, and then leaving. I wouldn't suggest it but that was a cool function. People always thought I was a cop behind them in that car and would move out of the way, but only at night cuz it was a baby blue in color.
0:25 dont overfill or run dry ur gas
2:55 take care of your engine (don't drive all city miles; avoid short trips; warm up the car)
8:10 don't hang things where you shouldn't (don't hang things on shifters, steering, mirrors;
12:18 don't use "Windex" or glass cleaner on infotainment system screens/surfaces (ammonia harms touchscreens)
14:15 car floods: sunroof-drains (clean them) & windshield (improper replacement installation)
You just saved me 19 mins😂
Thank you kind sir.
Mostly irrelevant for EVs.
@@rogerphelps9939 uh other than the gas part everything else about windex and overflooding are pretty applicable regardless of engine type
You forgot the most important part: cut oil change intervals in half on turbo charged cars
Officer, I'm just letting my car breathe ... I'm doing an Italian tune-up sir :)
Funny, I actually got stopped last month cause I was performing a drive cycle on one of my cars to get it to pass inspection. He let me go when I told him. But he just thought I was being a wise ass.
Italian Tune up
Lol, I remember thinking that in my in my Honda Accord at 130 mph and saying that in court!🤣 I still had some pedal left! 🤣
:)
You mean like a Fiat= Fix It Again Tony!! LOL. Or the old adage about Fords= Fix Or Repair Daily!! Hey, I'm old using old verbeage!
Love the "Italian Tune Up".... works every time!
Hi Bro. Does driving on low gear with high RPM above 3000 rev/sec or 4000rev/sec also qualify to be an Italian Tuneup? Because i can't get high rpm if I drive on the 7th gear auto on highway. Kindly advise. How do u perform an Italian Tuneup in your car?
@@Yoohoo-z5qrev out your gears.
1st gear 2k
2nd gear 4K
3rd gear 5.5k
4th gear 6k
5th gear red line
6th gear red line
Keep your car in 6th gear above 5k rpm’s and just cruise! Give it gas, off the gas, give it gas, off the gas, and so on.
One thing I do is, I get in the car and start the engine. Then I get comfortable, put on the seat belt, check the mirrors and the instrument panel, then I am good to go. I do this because, although it only take a minute, the oil pressure has built up all around the engine.
Oil pressure reaches the furthest gallies in seconds, but you do you.
Drive the car SLOWLY for about the FIRST mile before using full throttle acceleration is also a good idea!
Agreed. My Brother in law volunteers at a sports car museum. They had a famous driver (can't remember his name) drive their cars on an open house day. First he did a walk around. Next started the car. Put on and
checked his seat belt. Next he adjusted all the mirrors. Then he checked the gauges especially to check oil. Next he checked where all the control were and how he fit them i.e. shift stick, clutch and brakes. Ran the shifter through its pattern. Then he was ready to go. He did this for every car!
I do a similar routine.
The walk around is very important for safety. Are there small children in the street behind you that you couldn't see with your mirrors?
Very good idea!
He is soooo much more pleasant to listen to than Scotty. Nice job👌
Have done everything you recommend, including a break in oil change on my 2022 Venza. I can't believe how fortunate I was to come upon this channel right when I bought my first Toyota. I change my oil religiously every 8k (5,000 miles) and will continue to follow the Car Care Nut advice. Thank you very much.
I may even recommend doing like 3K during the first like 20K miles to make sure there's minimal metal's in the oil but you should be good.
I like 4000 mile oil changes
Too late for that, it's already got more than 20k on it, but I should be fine as I am a maniac (or Car care nut) for maintenance :)@@sacredhealstv901
@@uhhTabby What I did was 3K up to 15K then 5K after that so it was always the 5/10 numbers you know
Bought a new 24 Camry three weeks ago. Drove gently during the first 1,000 mile break-in period. Always warmed up the car first. RPM was never over 3,000. Mostly driven between 25 mph to 55 mph. Did the first oil change at 50 miles, the second at 400 miles, and the third at 1,000 miles. Each time put in Toyota 0W-16 with a Toyota oil filter. And each time the oil looked golden before the oil change. And each time the drained oil looked completely dark in a clean glass jar, and even my 1,000 lums high-powdered flashlight couldn't shine thru. One thing for sure is that I'll need to change oil every 3000 miles for sure.
Top-notch advice as usual. If you own a Toyota and follow The Car Care Nut, you're pretty much all set.
He has points that are valid for any vehicle.
@@donreinke5863 You make a valid point Mr. interweb helper!
How come he can't be my next door neighbor, very least local shop. 😢
@kychristell1779 Although he knows what hes talking about some of the time, I often disagree with him.
I have the experience and knowledge to easily match his having been in automotive repair for 51 years.
I repair Toyotas (and all other cars) but i dont own one, and never will.
I will, however flip them for profit.
@kychristell1779 I will try to keep it brief, but here is a short list of Toyota failure.
90s Camry 4 cylinders..Engine "oil gelling" issues which Toyota actually admitted to, but didnt issue a recall.
3.0V-6 engines used throughout the 90s in 4-Runners and trucks. These had well known head gasket as well as valve seat recession issues. Again, Toyota refused to recall them, but would replace the head gaskets for free ONE time IF customers complained excessively, and was never publicized.
Prius brake issues. The regenerative brake system had glitches which caused several Prius to crash due to brake failure.
Toyota stupidly refused to cooperate with a Federal investigation, earning them a record one billion dollar fine from the NTSB.
Really dumb mistake..Badly designed throttle pedals on Camry models causing them to get caught on floor mats, resulting in partially or fully open throttle.
Lower ball joints on first generation Tundra trucks, which would rust out and drop the front end on the pavement while driving.
Poor heat treating of differential gears on trucks, causing failure. At one time it was nearly impossible to find used differentials at wrecking yards as the demand was so high for them.
While certain vehicles and engines were very well made, such as the 22R and 22RE 4 cylinders, the 1980s era Camrys and the newer 3.4 V-6 engine, theyve had enough major issues that Im not overly enamored with Toyota.
The majority of automatic transmissions used in Jeep Cherokee models were sourced from Toyota, and they have proven to have few issues, even when ill maintained. Not so true of the Peugeot sourced BA-10 manual transmission used in the Cherokee.
While I repair late model vehicles regularly, my daily drivers are 39 and 47 year old Fords devoid of electronic systems except for electronic ignition which has only two easily replaced components.
I can easily repair my vehicles on the side of the road if ever necessary.
As far as Honda/Acura, the rest of the vehicle will fall apart before the engine does, If COMPLETE timing belt service is done AND the engine is never allowed to overheat.
Dont ever change JUST the timing belt..do the complete service with idlers, water pump and tensioner.
This applies to ANY vehicle with a timing belt regardless of manufacturer.
Vehicles with timing chains should have the hydraulic tensioner serviced.
I learned the one about the too many keys hanging from the ignition switch when I went to Auto Tech classes in 1977 to 79. Our instructor was a seasoned mechanic that told us of a customer who came in complaining that is car died every time he went over the railroad tracks. he handed them the key and for a few visits, they were never able to duplicate the problem until finally on the third or fourth visit, when they handed him back the key, they just happened to see him put it back on his keychain with about 30 other keys. He said lets take a test drive with all those keys, and they were then able to duplicate the problem.
I learned it from having a GM car that was in the recall for ignition switch problems. Their "fix" was a little slip of paper to add to your owner's manual telling you not to have anything hanging from your key while driving. Since then I've always had my car key on a latch so I can easily remove it from the rest of my keyring.
Hey ,,, that 's a good one ! Part of my job was Car stereo installation and I Can remember several times the customer had Humongous things, (like Trolls?), on the keychain. One time I had to use one hand to Lift all the junk back while the other hand turned the ignition Switch! Lol
Did you by chance go to De Anza?
@@WestZ I went to Hartnell College in Salinas, but I am familiar with De Anza in Cupertino. After I lived in Salinas Valley, I lived in San Jose for about 10 years before moving to Vancouver, Washington.
@@MoNoShocks damn, small world! Seems like the great grandfather auto techs of the 70s and 80s have the same war stories 😂. Hope all is well in the PNW!
I have a 3.6 VVT engine in my 07 Cadillac CTS and I absolutely love it! I’ve heard many people complain about these engines, but I’ve never had the least problem with mine, not one! But I’m always changing the oil in it and there’s nothing but the best complete synthetic oil! I change my oil at half the intervals that the owners manual says it should be changed! So I keep good oil with it at all times, and it doesn’t use our league or burn a drop of oil and it purrs like a kitten, as if it was still new! But I believe it’s very very important to keep the oil change very Regularly and these engines, especially that one I’m told!
I am glad you addressed windshield issues. I got a crack a little while ago on my windshield on my 200 LC. Didn’t think anything about it because where I am from in Canada almost everyone has a cracked windshield because of ice and the city sanding the roads. Once the snow started to melt and roads got slushy I noticed my fog lights would stay on even when headlights were off. Took it into the dealership they couldn’t find the problem after running it through the car wash 4 times. It was good for about 2 weeks and then we got rain the problem was back except now the door sensors were acting funny but this time it was on and off and it turns out the windshield was leaking and it took 4 months to get a new windshield in. Fun stuff but don’t sit on a cracked windshield.
learned this the hard way down south of you. I got unlucky and a rock hit my windshield on the highway, and while I was setting aside money to have it filled, temperature fluctuations grew the crack from "maybe I can just get this filled" to "you need a replacement windshield," it sucks
Im Italian and do the same for my old body
push it hard twice a week in the gym or in the yard.
We get carboned up too!
Im direct ijectiln...
but less often as before😼😻
1 don't run the fuel tank low, it kills the fuel pump. Also don't overfill your tank, use the recommended gas: e85, premium, etc.
2 know the basics about your car, will guide your maintenance. Ie if you have direct injection, you need a once a week Italian tune up. Also if you drive short distances this also applies. Avoid short trips. If you have a turbocharged engine: maintenance is critical, especially oil change. Avoid long oil change intervals: cut the manufacturers intervals in half (they only apply to specific use scenarios.
3 don't hang things on things that are not hangers: hanging a bag on the shifter, steering column, rear view mirror. This kills the mechanism = LT damage. don't have too many things on your keychain, it wears the cylinder.
4 don't use windex (ammonia based cleaners), it kills touch screens and tints immediately
5 car floods, that are internal. Especially sun roof leaks, clogged sun roof drains. Otherwise poor windshield replacement / poor seals.
What this video forgot to mention is the car brands KNOW you want to keep your tank 100% full. So they design the entry port so that the nozzle is at a slightly steeper angle. This raises the tip a little bit so you can safely squeeze another quart in before it shuts off. Like so many of the tips on this video, you could avoid these issues if you read your dang instruction book! I read mine and the last two cars I've owned said the angle of the port is steeper so the tank is 99.99% full. Both had in big bold letters: "DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR TANK." It said once the nozzle clicks, it's full. Don't try to squeeze the handle a second time!
@@largol33t12Rather than forgotten, I think the tip about not over filling the tank was reduced to layman's terms for non technical types that don't care about the fluid dynamics. Problem is owners manuals have gone from 30 pages to 300 pages with a separate 500 page manual for the infotainment and they over warn about common sense. They have a lot of words directed to 12 people who were not savy enough to get out of jury duty.
@@MoNoShocks Not entirely correct - they have a lot of words directed at 12 people who did tremendously stupid things with their cars that caused an expensive problem who then threatened to sue the manufacturers.
Yes, we know, we all know, we JUST watched the video.
Thank You Captain Obvious
Thanks for this!
The Car Care Nut is the only person I trust on YT. He speaks in detail topics that NOBODY else on YT talks about. All these other Car Review channels just read scripts and really know nothing about them! Koodos to The Car Care Nut for a successful 2023 and to a bright 2024!
Scotty Kilmer, Uncle Tony's Garage and, Powell Machine Inc. 😉
Not correct, John Cadogan tells it like it is. He’s an engineer. His review on the PHEV Mitsubishi Outlander was outstanding. Him and 2 other engineers reviewed it on his channel.
@@ricksanford6485 His channel offers no substance. It’s pure unadulterated click bait. Mind you that style seems to win out with most, but not me.
@@ricksanford6485I disagree I love Scotty and think he hilarious. Sure he has a bias with Toyotas but can you really fault him for his opinions? And honestly I think it’s brilliant with his click bait. I’ve learned a bit through him as well as other mechanics channels.
Scotty knows what he is talking about..
I worked on my own cars for years, prior to computerized engines. You have great content for the novice and intermediate knowledge level, which is needed. $$$ saved.
This guy is the best I’ve ever seen at his job. Not only are his videos enjoyable to watch. They are very beneficial. Phenomenal.
I was an autobody technician for 34 years and have seen it all. Please listen to this advice 100%
Please listen to this man! As a collision technician, myself, please stop hanging your handicap placards from the mirror while driving. First, it’s illegal (says so on the card), but I see a lot of collisions happen because drivers create a blind spot and couldn’t see.
My father was a retired diesel and gasoline senior Master technician. He taught me everything automotive, but a channel like this provides updates as automobiles have dramatically changed over the decades. I am able to manage an automotive repair shop, my 3rd career after military retirement, but also educate customers. These are excellent points made by AMD. Thank you once again!
No.1 Trade in your 2004 instead of just fixing it.
No. 2 Keep the gasoline BETWEEN 1/4 and 3/4. If you let it go to click point. It will kill the evap module.
No. 3 Change the oil more often than required to past the warranty point.
No. 4 flush the tranny and coolant system as required.
3 & 4 are good for the turbo too.
Who taught me? My Department of the Navy Machinist uncle.
Ever seen a Pinto with original engine and automatic transmission with 250,000 miles on it? Oh and those never got wrenched on.
He also bought Oil and Tranny fluid by the barrel. Probably a big no-no in the Californication state now.
Then returned those back in the same barrel to the recyclable operator. Start with a full one and a empty one.
As a tech myself I can say you give solid advice. Keep doing good for car owners.
Wow…does this hit home! I just had fuel induction cleaning on my 2021 CX5 with 28K miles on it. 99% of the time i drive is in town short trip driving. I was STUNNED at how immediately my mpg on my gauges went from 21 mpg to 26 mpg and how quickly it starts up. I will for sure take my little car for a run down the interstate once a week to blast out the filth. Thank you!
Did you mean Fuel Injection? “Induction” is the process of making electricity with a coiled wire and a permanent magnet.
@@edryba4867 Nope. There is a service called “Fuel INDUCTION service” that cleans carbon deposits and gunk. They clean the throttle body, fuel injectors, intake valves, manifold, and air intake. It takes a little time, but WOW what a difference it made with my CX5. It wasn’t terribly expensive either…I think it was right around 160-180 bucks.
Absolutely, unequivocally the best auto channel, in my opinion on youtube. Seriously, there's not 1 video you make. I don't enjoy that's saying something I watch a lot of youtube.
I’m a retired mechanic and this is my favorite U Tube channel.
Anyone fortunate enough to live near this guy’s shop has got it made if they drive a Toyota or Lexus.
I wish have close to Ahmed shop
Watching you naturally Improv these videos the way you do is pretty cool. Your knowledge of cars is incredible, but your ability to articulate these things to the masses is the best!
You mean being naturally honest about what you know and not reading scripts 😂
@@Nightrunnergunner yes. Have you ever spoken publicly or even on camera, without a script? 99.9% of the population cannot pull that off.
I'm not surprised this channel has grown so fast. You give sound advice, come across as sincere and seem like you truly care about the average person out there taking care of their car. Here's to 1M subs soon!
I do these things.
Oil change every 5,000 miles
I also run fuel system cleaner with every oil change.
Cabin filter every 6 months (lots of pollen and dirt in my area)
Engine air filter every 30,000 miles (though I do check it every oil change just to ensure it's in useable condition)
I am very vigorous about checking for transmission fluid change intervals. My car calls for every 36,000 miles. I will do every 30,000 because I don't want any problems.
Brakes, I am very good at feeling brakes and will change them when most people wouldn't. I like the ability to stop very quickly if need be.
I've never heard a mechanic say "the Lord bless you and keep you". Thank you for that. You made my day!!!!
Look up, JOHN RUTTER.
You'll be inspired.
Lol yuck
I love my 2019 Tundra, yes it’s a V8, and yes it’s thirsty, I know about the fuel pump thing. But i never let it get below 1/2 tank. A 38 gallon gas tank is quite expensive on empty. 😊
Good stuff! I'm a huge fan of doing a break-in oil change. I've done this at 1000-1500 miles on every new vehicle I've ever purchased, and every 5000 miles thereafter, with a quality synthetic oil. This simple rule has served my vehicles very well for decades.
Very few newer vehicle owner manuals include early first oil change requirements. My first oil change in my 2024 Supra will be after one year (4000 miles or slightly less). The first oil change in our now 19.5 year old Lexus was at 5000 miles. It still runs perfectly with over 140,000 miles.
@@davepaturno4290 What most people don't realize is that modern maint intervals, as recommended by manufacturers, are heavily influenced by environmental concerns, not best practices for vehicle longevity and reliability. I have no problem with trying to prevent unnecessary waste, which is why longer maint intervals exist today, but my top concern is protecting the long term reliability of my investment. That said, if you have a vehicle made by a quality brand, following the owner's manual won't likely cause any problems, but I'd rather be aggressive with my maint than to have any possibility of premature mechanical failures. More frequent fluids changes are cheap insurance, in my opinion.
@dlg5485 I guess if you are planning to keep your vehicle for 25+ years, then the extra cost may be worthwhile.
I bought a new 01 tacoma 4 cyl new - have always done oil changes regularly - originally at 3000 miles; now with better oils, i go 5k. The truck has 225k on it now and never uses a drop of oil between changes and runs exactly like it did when new. One great truck, but you have to consider oil changes an investment in the car's future.
I found your channel right after I bought my 6 speed 2021 Toyota Corolla SE hatchback and I've followed your advice. She runs perfectly. Thank you!
That is the car I want
I'm the original owner of a factory ordered 1995 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. At 195,000 i just replaced the injectors, O2 sensor, starter, alternator, MAP. IACV. The throttle body cleaned. I always changed oil every 3,000 miles. Trans and transfer case every 50,000. It idles perfect. Zero oil consumption. I take it off road, light 4wd. I recently had the windscreen replaced, this is #3. The last one lacked sealant on a top edge. The new installer pointed it out. He was proud of his work. Selling next year to a lucky new owner.
Yep...had windshield replaced and opted for OEM only. They had stock windshields, but I accepted the minor cost upgrade and waited a day or two for it. Tech came to the house and told me he was glad I opted for OEM. Perfect install every time and there are no clarity issues with OEM. My experience.
Excellent video as usual. For preventing flooding I would also consider to clear the firewall well of any leaves. You might need to take off the window wiper arms to get there, but it might be worth it.. Greasing up the connecting arms when you are in there is also a good idea.
I agree.
I had a '90 Dodge Grand Caravan which needed attention in this area. This car was parked outdoors under incense cedar trees which drop their scale-like needles as small bits. Those bits easily passed into the "well" and slowly clogged the drain tube, causing water to collect and then overflow and leak into the cabin floor.
Once clogged, it wasn't too hard to clear with compressed air, an easy DIY if you have a compressor. But still, better to avoid the water overflow by making sure that the drain system is clear before the start of rainy season.
Fortunately, my Sienna does not have this problem. Thank you Toyota!
With regards to the "flooding" without the flood, may I add that the cowl panel (gutter under the windshield) is also another source of flooding if left unchecked. Dead leaves, insects, gunk get squeezed inside it which eventually clogs the small drain on each side of the cowl panel. In time water will build up then overflow into the aircon duct (correct me if I'm wrong)😊 which will trickle down in the front passenger side.
True that $8,000 repair
Once the leaves start falling, I periodically clean it out with the leaf blower.
My spouse bought a fantastic new Mazda. The maintenance interval seemed so long I finally said I don’t trust a car to not be observed by a mechanic for more than 6 months. Glad to hear you agree after I pushed the issue and made the appointment. Was hoping I’m not a totally out of touch old school car guy.
He REALLY knows what is talking about......love this channel a lot. Lots of sound advices..
I always keep my wife’s RAV4, my Corolla and my GX460 in full. Once the clicker stops at the pump, I place the cap back on. Once 1/4 of the fuel is consumed we refuel back again and the tank is always full. An emergency where to arise we jump in the vehicle and on the road we go. Thanks for the video. Take care!
sounds like they see enough use that it's not a problem, I'm more on the "leave enough gas in the tank to get to the gas station and fuel up when I need to drive somewhere/consider pouring fuel stabilizer in the tank between drives" end of the spectrum
@@xXx_Regulus_xXxmjne is a similar approach. Whenever I see that I have around 100-150km left in the tank, I go refuel. In case of an emergency situation, 100km is far enough where I can find a gas station around in Europe. 😊
Thanks for your explanation on the fuel pump issue. I always fill to the top but usually don't fill till near empty. Have never had a failure from any vehicle in 40 years of driving but didn't know I was doing any harm either.
The fact that you fill up the tank helps, rather than keeping it on low all the time.
The harm takes 41 years to materialise😅.
I refuel till the pump clicks off and don't put anymore gas in.
I used to let it run low before filling it, after a preventable expensive azz repair (fuel pump) not any more.
the "low fuel level kills pumps" thing is a bit of a myth. Running it OUT of gas will kill your pump if you do it regularly. The only time your fuel pump is submerged is when the tank is 3/4 or higher, depending on the dimensions of your fuel tank. Your fuel pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it, not around it, so as long as you don't regularly run it OUT of gas then you aren't harming it. When you run out of gas your pump will run dry and continue to run dry which is definitely going to kill it. However, running it low on fuel but not completely out, will not damage the fuel pump.
I'm still old school and I do my oil changes at 3,000 miles with synthetic oil and factory filter.
I've never have seen an engine go bad changing the oil too often.
Thanks for your video..
If you don't already have one, I would suggest a Fumoto drain valve. It makes changes so much easier
If I use synthetic is it ok to do every 5000?
@@terrycrews1760 There are many factors (driving style, turbos, weather extremes) that can effect when you should change your oil.
Many videos that have actually sent oil samples out for analysis at various change intervals, after normal non-extreme driving, indicate that a good oil (like a synthetic) begins to exhibit noticeable wear at ~ 10k miles. And some manufacturers recommend 10K oil changes but realize that they only warranty the power train for 60K miles.
Old school (pre 1990) oil changes were recommended at every 3k miles but oil and filters have greatly advanced beyond those recommendations. While it may be a little premature to change synthetic oil every 5k miles or every year whichever comes first, it is not that expensive and should give you peace of mind that you are doing your best to ensure a long engine life.
@@clarkkent9080 thanks for your detailed response! Super helpful!
You should be fine, that's the maximum mileage I'd wait, especially if you're running a turbo. Needless to say that a new oil filter should be fitted at the same time. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.@@terrycrews1760
The fuel that _goes thru_ the pump, cools it. The pump sits in a cup that is always full of fuel, because a small regulated amount returns to the cup. The example you show illustrates it perfectly. I've changed hundreds of them, they all hold about 10oz of fuel in the cup. Been that way since the mid 90's.
Lol, I remember driving through Starbucks with a random waterfall coming from my roof. I was so confused and embarrassed. I learned about these drains on youtube and it was luckily an easy fix of removing debris from the gutters.
Thanks for all the wonderful info. I’m a 75 year old single woman who doesn’t know much about cars. Last year I bought a Prius prime because I wanted to be environmentally responsible. I’ve watched most of your videos so I can properly care for my car. You are a jewel.
That’s amazing my grandma doesn’t change her oil until a year later no joke
A mechanic and a philosopher. I like that. 🙂
My wife constantly almost runs out of fuel. Oddly she never has, so I can never get it through to her why you shouldn’t do it. This confirms my frustration.
Was taught all this by my Dad. I do love big engines most women dont know or care but I do. I always keep gas up. Always take car on the road and hit it at least once a week. I have nice road I can let it run and I do. Had big Lincolns V8s Caddys V8 and now drive a 5.7 hemi. It loves to run. Keep junk off the dash and car knobs, buttons and shifters. Change oil @ 6 months and always check water and air in my tires. Keep eye on battery level. All good advice. Am 70 now but most young dont seem to know or care. Great advice, thanks
I’m so happy I found this channel. I’m buying my first Lexus next year and I’ve been doing a deep dive on new cars because my last new car was a Saturn Vue in 2005!! I feel like I’m driving a rocket ship when I test drive the new cars. I’m doing my best to educate myself as much as possible even before buying rhe new vehicle and this channel has helped me a lot. There are many things I do know and oh so many don’t. Like overfilling your gas. I always fill to the next dollar etc. overfilling it. Never thought of it as a problem until see these videos. I will never do it again.
I Just Love that man. Cheers from Germany. Owning a Toyota Auris, doing 300.000 Miles now with your Tips. Never Had an issue. Magical.
This guy is a legend. He just actually is a car care nut and wants to save you money. ie. his oil change recommendation. Would love to know your thoughts on the new crazy low weight oils, especially on engines like the 1gr-fe that used to recommend heavy oil.
In the FJ cruiser, they seem to recommend diffrent oil weights for diffrent countries. I am convinced it has more to do with pollution regulations than what is good for your engine. I run 5-w30 as I do not have extreme temperatures in either direction to deal with, and there are plenty of people with 300,000+ mile FJ engines running it.
Most technicians are not going to have an opinion on light oils for example outside of the manufacturer recommendations, Project Farm on U-Tube done testing comparing the light oils verses the heavier versions, and even though the testing favored the heavier oils, since he has a large audience he wouldn’t recommend anything different than manufacturer recommended oils, I won’t use the light ECO oils outside of my vehicle’s warranty period, excessive oil consumption and premature engine wear is attributed to these from all the research I’ve done!
I built an ls engine years ago after being familiar with old small block Chevys. When I measured the bearing clearance I almost panicked, instead of .002 to .0025 I measured.001 to .0015, this is within spec and worn out is .002 to .0025, worn out on an ls is new spec on an older engine. Moral of the story use the oil the manufacturer recommends, it is the correct oil for the tight tolerances of modern engines. Measurements are in inches.
Vehicles with VVT need lighter oils because the oil has to do double duty as it lubricates and acts as a hydraulic fluid! Now, with the popularity of turbochargers, the oil has to do triple duty, lubricant, hydraulic fluid, and coolant!! Use the correct oil and keep it clean!! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
All else being equal, heavier oils will protect better due to a thicker film. But not all else is equal. A lot of lower weight oils make up for that with their additives...
Amd, you’re 💯 right on the sunroof drain. Exactly what you said would happen, happened on our Sienna. Now we have electrical issues and a messed up interior. Keep up with those drains folks!
I did 10k mile oil changes for 2 years wish I had learned that you need to do it every 5k miles when I got it but I listened to the car. Thank you for the tip about Windex had no idea and totally something I would have done.
I always did my own oil changes and never followed Mfg guidelines and never exceeded 3000 miles. Because of this I never had any major engine issues , never had to rebuild an engine, and achieved multiple 100K miles on all cars. Oil is cheaper than engine jobs .
Some years ago, I had an '07 Altima. Started hearing water sloshing around in the driver's side door. Found a rubber drain plug at the bottom of the door, pulled it and watched a few gallons of water come out! I was somewhat amazed that I didn't have any issues with the electronics in the door. I probably would have if I hadn't addressed it quickly after noticing.
Such a great blessing to us Car Care Nuts!!!
He definitely is!!
I have a 2007 Avalon, 2Gr fe. It has 92k miles. I love to give it an "Italian tune-up" not all the time, but at least weekly. When that engine is approaching 6k rpm's it sounds glorious to me, kinda like the sound of a jet engine spooling up. 😊
@@efil4kizum It is a thrill, and the car likes it too! If you're in the Camp of scoffing at the Avalon as a boring old car, you'd be wrong. It has the heart of a lion.
Even the 2nd gen Avalons with the 1mz are very nice when you open the throttle up.
V6's tend to sound nice at high RPM and full throttle.
I have an 2011 Acura TSX and live very close to work, but I drive to a large city every week to visit my kids and grandkids that is 76 miles away, so it gets some road miles too. I can't wait to do the italian tuneup next time!
@@Moneymindsetcoaching😂look out for cops they pop out like mushrooms on weekends
Yep! I ran into that with my 2000 Trans am with my t-tops. A 🤏🏻 small twig got into one of my drains for the t-top. Now what I've been doing since that happened is I pull the t-tops off 2 months and clean and lubricant all the rubber seals, whipe down the channels and blow out the drains with compress air.
Italien tuneup. Love it. I call it a hot supper. I give her the beans every now and then
True and very well explained. Just want to share one advice from my personal experience. Those diy sound/dust proofing rubber seal strips for the doors, trunk and bonnet. They worked great in reducing the amount of dust and wind noise in the cabin but it didn't cross my mind that the seal around the bonnet was doing more harm than good. It basically prevented effective dissipation of heat in the engine bay and that somehow caused a premature death of the battery. It could have been worse if I hadn't noticed this soon enough.
Former detailer, to clean your infotainment screens and your gauge clusters just use water (Distilled water highly recommended) spray the water on the screen and the cluster, let it soak in and then gently wipe the screen and cluster with a microfiber cloth. This’ll help minimize scratches and it’ll keep your infotainment working.
Distilled water and a quality micro fibre cloth will easily remove even greasy marks and finger prints from the entertainment screen and windows! At home on our house windows I just use distilled water and a micro fibre cloths it will remove any dirt or marks and it leaves perfectly clean glass!
God Bless you and your family too...2024 and beyond. I enjoy your videos. I used your review of the CX 50 turbo and also the video about turbos. I decided on the non turbo model.
Can confirm. My wife's I4 GDI did nothing but 1 mile trips for years and it had a persistent trouble code relating to the catalytic converter. Never did take it to the shop since was still working and there is no mandatory inspection where I live. Long story short, once it started being driven longer distances that code cleared on its own. Had a later problem with weak engine performance after it sat idle for six months and I took it to the shop. The mechanic told me my gas had gone bad which caused the computer to go haywire tweaking parameters to improve fuel combustion, and that it also had a terrible carbon buildup. Solution was to a full tank of premium and to take it on high-speed a road trip to burn off the carbon. It's been running like a charm ever since.
Italian Tune-up is also needed for battery maintenance if all the daily driving consists of short, street driving. Battery doesn't get properly charged unless the vehicle is ridden continuously over 60 mph and at or above 2500 RPMs for 30 minutes or more.
Merry Christmas AMD, TCCN Team and 918,000 SUBSCRIBERS !!!🎄🎄 If you live in the Salt Belt, Number 1 should be , NEVER forget to rust proof the nice new car you just
spent a fortune on!!!!😁
Yes but be careful where you take it. It could be worse.
2:40, for the most part, yes, I agree with this. However, when your vehicle comes with a turbo I would suggest using premium even though the manufacturer suggests regular, a turbo will benefit from the more accurate combustion timing from premium and will rely far less on the monitoring systems implemented to reduce knock
I agree 100% people should never use cheap gas either.
Mazda allows turbo owners to run regular fuel, but lower power is to be expected. I would stick with premium, however.
For the screen, I installed a screen protector that doesn't affect the touch sensitivity. It makes it easier to keep the screen clean. And always try to use microfibers to prevent scratching.
In Acura we have dreaded touchpad, but at least we never touch the screen 😂
I wish the police would crack down on that ! When I was growing up, it was the dice hanging from the mirrors. Now it’s the cell phones mounted right in their view! I saw one FULL SIZE IPad mounted right on top of his dashboard!
I’ve looked on Amazon for a screen protector for my RAV4, but I cant find any; where did you get yours?
Been doing glass for a few years now. Big company, mom and pop shop, and back to big company. I gotta say, I’ve seen it all. “My neighbor put this backglass in for me for $50, it started leaking but we dont know why.” Push on the glass to find cheap silicone or old butyl. “I hear whistling and thumping from my windshield when I drive” last guy never primed the glass. Go to help a rookie who cant get a windshield out, last guy laid a 3 inch wide bead of glue all around the pinchweld. Or the one that really hurt, doing a windshield for a car that was less than three years old, pull the glass, it was done before, last guy used a power tool all around and didnt treat the metal, rust all around the pinch. Had to stop working and tell the customer they needed to tow it to a shop to fix the issue and that I cannot install the windshield until then.
Also for newer vehicles with ADAS equipment on the windshield, DEMAND OEM!!! Especially if its through insurance. Almost all manufacturers have released statements that the vehicle requires it, but more importantly when it comes to calibration after replacement, its less common to fail than aftermarket glass.
Ive windered why aome cars get sludge build up in the oil passages and valleys . They say its lack of oil changes for one due to evaporation. But i recently seen two elderly ladies (customers) who only dtive them to the corner stire . Never get warmed up . That can also create sludge . Good advice . Thanks. .
Been a mechanic over 20 and I agree with every point you touch on and have told people this for years, especially about OIL CHANGES. Hopefully with capital letters someone might get it. Also about hanging things on the switches and a heavy key ring. Several times they wanted a warranty on a switch but they drove it in even telling me that they can't hang something because it's broken now... Well... They broke it amd that's not warranty.
Keep up the good advice to people and hopefully most will listen.
So I’ve been wondering about this and curious if you might have an opinion, on the 2024 CX-5 which apparently has carbon build up, is it a dumb or a bad thing to run, let’s say only a few ounces of Lucas gas treatment every couple fill ups and during the red line periods to try to help with the carbon build up.
@@guitarplayer4429 my stance on gas additives is this, it can't hurt to put an additive every other tank or so, they are lubricants and detergents, preventative things, however by no means a fix for something. Some say they have fixed their car with it, but I have personally never seen a car fixed with an additive not once in my life even with the car that was claimed to be put in.
Maintenance.... I personally do what you are asking every few tanks for the exact reason you're asking about.
I own a 2015 2.2 Diesel CX-5 & know a good bit about this. Just had my engine inlet manifold de-cocked after 105K miles (Waaaay too late) , should have been done around 50K miles in my opinion. This is despite always adding a quality fuel aditive and taking it for long runs every now and then. Also, carbon blocked some of the sensors & needed replacing@@guitarplayer4429
I use a carabiner to coral keys on my purse. A separate carabiner has just the car and house key for car and walking cuz the heavy keychain drives me crazy and is too heavy. Glad I was doing that right.
@@guitarplayer4429 I put in a " gas treatment '" in my gas every few tanks. I will completely disagree with someone that says it fixes anything, but for preventative maintenance.... It's what I personally do. Putting some detergent in the fuel from my experience is good
Great that you’re expanding car care beyond just Toyota Lexus. It’s unfortunate that most people don’t know how to maintain a vehicle. DIY is rarer today than in decades past. Just adding gas and driving. Not even checking the dipstick or battery.
Part of the reason for less DIY is that cars are also more complex and more electrical/computerized. I know people who do work on the side on older cars but won't touch newer ones due to the complexity.
@@sharonthehuman5954 you can still maintain and work on newer cars. Your belief is false.
In the old days fuel pumps were mounted on the engine block. I remember replacing a few on my '70's cars. I've had the luxury of having friends who were Auto Mechanics/Technicians who told me in the early days of gas tank mounted fuel pumps "the gasoline keeps your fuel pump cool". They suggested to keep the gas tank always above 1/4 full. This was after my 1984 Dodge Daytona had to have it's fuel pump replaced, because I'd wait for the "idiot" fuel light to come on before re-fuelling. I was young (and a bit broke), but not stupid, I just didn't realize fuel pumps had moved from the engine block to the gas tank and the impact that had. When I get below half a tank now, I just fill it up... it's EZ fuel pump maintenance. 😄👍
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to You and your family.❤❤
One thing that has improved massively in cars in recent years is the Engine oil. When I started driving the oil change was set at 6000 miles, most car engines died at around 60k miles. Now the improved oils and engines come with a specified 28k miles change period for Diesel , and a life expectancy of 500k miles+.
Never go cheap on engine oil, buy the best that is specified. I have only once used a cheap oil, from a discount store, the result was a seized engine.
As a Car Detailer for many years I agree with windex, DON’T use Windex at all in your car, period! Be very careful with a lot of these new cars and their recycled plastics can be easily damaged.
While in college my wife and I both had newish civics. Mine had a key that was to close to the steering wheel and my keys would get stuck in the area between the steering wheel and column. Her Civic we lemon pawed because the sunroof drains plugged and molded the interior. Funny to hear both of those things here!
No Windex on a touch screen! Wow, I haven't done this but I can see myself doing it without thought. Great tip.
Use "Flat Panel (TV)" screen cleaner or some DISTILLED WATER with a couple of drops of "new dawn" dish soap!
I’d rather watch this than listening to Scotty Kilmer say everything is junk or every car manufacturer is shutting down.
Scott Kilmer channel is more for entertainment. Car care nut is for information.
AMD knows his stuff! I like him and watch his post’s regularly
I got bad advice from Scotty
Scotty lost me as the clickbait titles got worse. Just annoyed me to be treated with such contempt.
I watched a few Scotty videos but couldn’t tolerate the overly exaggerated animation and constant yelling. CCN is MUCH more informative all while having a pleasant personality and demeanor. Obviously many others agree as AMD now has over 1 M subscribers, congratulations!
I watch car nut becuz I value his opinions and he is a REAL technician. I’ve been working on cars since 1974. Working for new dealership for 42 yrs. I did work from bumper to bumper so I know a few things about vehicles. One thing I’ve to add is, the less one pushes his engine the better. Unless one knows the engine is in top shape and well maintained, many parts under the hood can suffer from high RPM, such as timing chain, every bearings, pressure in cooling system, transmission, water pump , air conditioner just to name a few. No, they may not break on you right away but it will cost you money sooner, worse yet, break down at the worst moment.
I never used to believe in overfilling the gas tank being a bad thing. However, last month I kept getting a P0442 code on my mazda 3. According to the forums its either gas cap or the cannister vent valve located above the subframe. Only thing I've stopped doing since the code was on for several months was I stopped overfilling the tank but stopped as soon as the lever flicked at the pump. The light cleared by itself 2 weeks ago and hasn't been an issue since. Previously it would be on and off anytime I overfilled the tank. So guys, do not overfill!
I appreciate the tip in the video and your reply. I had no idea...
Now on short trips I will move the shifter from automatic to the standard shift side and hold it in a lower gear to keep the rpm higher. That way I can get the Italian tune up without the ticket.
smart, I've also seen on another channel to run the car at higher RPMs when you use a fuel system cleaner so it works more effectively
By holding the RPMs steady, you are NOT putting a HEAVY load on the engine, therefore not getting FULL benefit of the "tuneup"!
Best thing to do is accelerate kind of aggressively onto the highway whenever you get on.
Very informative video! Thank you! I change my turbo Audi every 6mo or 5k miles, definitely not what is in the maintenance section of the manual.❤️🇺🇸
This guy is the father of all cars. 💕💕❤❤😍😍
We just purchased a new Toyota RAV4 & found this presentation very helpful.
I love your Videos, very entertaining. The way you speak makes it all wonderful.
A superb video.
2008 SAAB 9-5 since new.
-Always put the mandated premium fuel in the tank.
-Always change the Mobil 1 0w-40 every 3-4,000 miles.
-Always change the engine air filter with every oil change.
-Always change cabin air filter every 12, 000 miles.
I live in the city and am often forced to park under trees. Every week I clear out leaves. I also stop by my mechanic every month for him to blowout the sunroof drain.
Lately I haven't been using thr car much, but make sure to drive it on the highway and do a longer run ever 7-10 days.
The SAAB now has 135,000 miles, with no issues of which you speak. And it's turbocharged. My next car--and hopefully that will be years down the road--will be a normally aspirated Toyota or Lexus ES. To date since new, I've spent $5,300 on all labor, parts and fluids...including exhaust and suspension. That's $5,300 in over 15 years.
@@phillipbanes5484 Thanks Phillip. My indy SAAB master tech is 30 miles from my home. I'm in that area occasionally and do service when needed. I bring him my 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 ($14 after rebate at Walmart) , Mann oil filter ($5) and Mann air filter ($10) and he changes all for $25. Not bad for a synthetic oil change for $54. It's also a matter of convenience. I unfortunately do a lot of stop and go city driving, which also hastens more frequent changes.
Simple and clean. The Car Care Nut way! Great video!
13:30 OEM touchscreens are expensive because their size is arbitrary, so its a low volume production item, and they also have to not freeze in winter weather so their composition is a little different.
Yes automotive grade is a lot different than consumer grade with electronics. Ask Tesla they had screens in the model s failing early on when they decided to use consumer grade screens.
@@thetechlibrarian I guess that would work fine in California but not the rest of the world lol
I am so happy I found your channel! We keep our cars until we run the wheels off and take care of them!
Thanks for very helpful video. Tip. Check your windshield washer functionality to make sure both washer spray heads work after windshield replacement. Guess what. Sometimes when the place new windshield on car they can pinch your washer hose UNDER the edge of the windshield glass! Don’t ask me how I know. This happened to me and my son’s car. Before we drove away from shop, I asked my son to actuate his windshield washer. He did and one of sprayers didn’t work!! Pinched under glass. My son was amazed. How did I know!?! 😂
Thanks for these tips! I didn't think that my occasional punching of the engine to get to freeway speed on the on-ramp was helping the engine in terms of carbon buildup because otherwise I don't accelerate aggressively at all to save fuel and general wear and tear.
Not only does it help, it’s fun!
And if you drive a manual car, it’s even more fun!
You do not need to accelerate agressively. Just driving a long distance with 70 miles/h will burn the coal clean off. With long I mean several hours.
I've never got expensive repairs on y diesel turbo car. Not in 200000 miles. Not even with the distribution chain (not a belt). But the car drove 4-8 times a year for 13 hours on a day. With this 70 (to 90, Germany has no limit) milesph (120-150 km/h).
Oil changes once a year...it was never black when checked in between , not a lot of metal dust in the oil).
Max acceleration I only do when I want to pass another car when not on highways.
I drive my 2023 Camry in sport mode every now and then to burn off the carbon.
@@thomasmiddlebrooke1012 hehe yup it really is fun!
@@reiniernn9071 Sounds like it would be cheaper to get it worked on in the shop than use all that time and gas.
Wishing you a Merry Christmas to you and your family. God Bless
I was taught the Italian tune-up when I was a teenager. My mom would get mad that I would do it. I explained to her why to do it and how often and she sort of accepted it...but she doesn't ever do it herself.
Ma! My mom is who taught me to do it!! She was a pretty good car nut
You’re “spot-on” with your advice, luckily for me I’ve been doing everything you’ve advised!
My Corolla uses regular but I put premium in and I notice it has a decent amount more power and slight increase in driving range.
Up hills the car will downshift and rev high with regular but premium the car stays in a higher gear and struggles less.
I did this on a motorcycle. All it did was carbon build up on the spark plugs.
Merry Christmas everyone.
Gracias por sus consejos
Es una persona de admirar 🙏🏻
Nunca cambie, personas cómo usted, necesita este mundo.
Wow, quickly closing in on one million subscribers!!!!!!!
If you add the two channels together, he has well over a million.
What’s a long trip every once in a while? Like 30 miles once or twice a week or a new state? Not specific enough.
14:45. Thank God a fellow car guy explained sunroof design and operation accurately!!! This is why all those 80s/90s aftermarket sunroof installs leaked so bad over time.. they tried to seal the actual roof instead of guttering it away like the OEMs do
And don't glue or attach anything to your fn AIRBAGS!! So many Mercedes customers come into our shop with decorative rhine stones or other things on the steering wheel airbags and emblems.. literally adding shrapnel to the bomb bolted in front of them.. airbags are great and effective when they are allowed to pop without shrapnel in them 😂
All excellent points and advice. I keep topping the tank - I seem to have self worth tied to it somehow. My old convertible - like the sunroof idea - if you take the top cloth off - it is literally like an eve-trough around the cabin area - and it is nothing fancy, a metal trough or channel and if you drive in winter or leave it outside or drive it in a bad rainfall - it is like camping in a tent with the rain driving at whatever speed you drive that car. I had to get very good at top repair and I increasingly did not like that design at all for when I could see it when fixing things up. I always omitted the sunroof in cars (I remember my Dad installing a sunroof in the Civic I eventually bought - but that design it stood up about an inch and the sunroof top would cover it like a dome - and it was not perfect - as I had to replace the seal every couple years). I am often tempted to get a sunroof - it is perception as many people will just not get a car without one - but thus far I have always said "a model without the sunroof" (they were very bad from crashes as well - maybe seatbelt use solved that).
You haven't quite got it right.
The real problem with short runs is they don't allow the engine to warm completely. Ignition blow-by, that occurs with EVERY piston compression stroke, causes unburned fuel, moisture, and exhaust gasses to accumulate in the cold oil of the crankcase of the engine, gets dissolved in the cold oil, and significantly degrades its lubricating ability, causing premature wear. Oil takes several more miles than engine coolant to get to operating temperature (~200-deg. F.), and many more miles to boil off this accumulated unburned fuel, moisture, and exhaust gasses. Constant short commutes is considered SEVERE SERVICE, and is the primary cause of oil degradation and sludge build-up.
A mere full-throttle burst of speed may blow out some of the accumulated soot within the cylinders, but does essentially NOTHING to boil off this accumulated unburned fuel, moisture, and exhaust gasses that short commutes deposit within your oil.
The solution is longer weekly runs at highway speeds (minimum 20-miles, or even more in cold weather), as well as more frequent oil changes, as specified in your owner's manual for SEVERE SERVICE.
Also, the glass quality is NOT what causes the leaks! You DON'T need to pay a premium for OEM glass. The quality of the installation with the required polyurethane adhesive is what would cause an aftermarket glass installation to leak. All glass leaks around the seal at the edge, unless it's broken...!!!
I didn't know that finer detail on the "Italian tune-up." Granted a 30+ mile highway commute each way I figured kept the vehicle humming better, but maybe it is time I push the humble Camry a little harder some days.
Any car except a diesel...they wont tolerate RPM over 3000 rpm in most cases.
I know if I redline or close to redline, my Rav4 is going to give me a bad driving score, lol.
@@donreinke5863your so wrong about diesels. They get so much carbon build up. You have to drive them hard.
@@Mastr-Tech Uh, NO.
3000rpm is winding most diesels high except a few in passenger cars. Peugeot had a high rpm diesel and even it wasnt close to redline on a gasoline engine.
Take a look at the tach redline on most light duty diesel trucks. 3000-3500 is about the limit. Even less for big diesels, even the 2 stroke "screaming" Detroits.
Sorry you dont have the experience I do. Youll learn...maybe.
@@sharonthehuman5954 Simply select a lower gear..the RPMs will come up in a hurry, likely at or below the speed limit.
Hearing you talk about the ignition key thing reminded me of my old '89 Caprice. I could start the car, pull the key, get out, lock it, and pop into the convenience store with it still running in the middle of winter. The '86 Bonneville I had before still had the separate ignition and door keys, so the trick wasn't needed. I miss those days. But, that's what remote start is for now.
My dad altered the ignition in my Dodge 600 by shoving the key in upside down years ago and getting it back out. His Ford key was double sided. Fortunately it did not damage the ignition and gave me a new function of being able to pull out the key while it was still running, locking it, running in to drop things off, and then leaving. I wouldn't suggest it but that was a cool function. People always thought I was a cop behind them in that car and would move out of the way, but only at night cuz it was a baby blue in color.
You my friend are so professional. Best on line by far.