Thank you, Mr. Harris! The locking mechanism which raises and lowers the film guide is most important. It is not adequately explained in other videos featured on YT. Thank you!
Just watched your video, and loaded my first roll of film into my A12-IV back. Success! My new (to me) 501CM is now a full day old, and ready to shoot. Unfortunately, we are in the midst of getting 3" of snow. Our first in a couple of years, and the roads are not safe. We rarely get snow, and don't have the heavy snow plows and ample salt, so only the largest main arteries thru town get any salt at all.
Hi John. I watch you all the time, and your knowledge is super helpful!! I've been getting into med format and feel I have a private tutor!! Keep up the good work. Your sharing of knowledge to help people out is gratefully appreciated! Pal C.
One thing you forgot to mention: make sure the camera is wound BEFORE you put the film back on to take your first shot (both front and back will show white in the little round window if they are wound.). If the film back is wound but the camera isn’t, you will waste your first frame when the camera is wound and the camera/back will be “out of sync” with each other.
Light seals can deteriorate over time. If you’re seeing fogging I’d get the back serviced. It’s good practice to load and unload in the shade but dark bags should definitely not be needed!
Thanks for this. Is it necessary to keep the dark slide in when you're not shooting? It seems on every roll I'm getting 1 or 2 shots with light leaks, and seemingly from the side where the dark slide goes in. I've had the seals replaced too.
You should remove the dark slide if you’re not using the camera for an extended period but otherwise leave it in. If you’re getting light leaks every few rolls then maybe get the seal checked (I assume you’re not leaving the camera in bright light?)
Thanks. I didn't know about the dark slide. Could you explain the situation with A 24 - is it possible to use this back for film 120? If so, what are the nuances? Or is it not recommended? And one more question - when the camera is not in use for several days, should I leave it cocked or not?
You can buy viewfinder masks that drop onto the screen and show the 645 frame lines. Otherwise mark frame lines on an old screen. All A16s will work on a 501CM.
Thank you Jonathan, that answered a lot of my questions. I bought a 501CM with the later A12 back (one with the dark slide holder), and I noticed the "half moon" indicator on the film holder key. In my understanding, it should be gradually turning red as I shoot through the roll. On my first roll, the red bar didn't appear until the 7th shot, and when I finished the roll it was half white and half red. Then as I rolled the crank on the right, the indicator turned fully red. Is this intentional or is it something wrong with the back? Thanks again
Yes, the indicator shows how much film has run through the camera. I suspect yours may need adjusting but I wouldn’t worry unless you use it (most people never do!).
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Hi Jonathan, I think I figured out what happened! The indicator is supposed to be working properly with old 120 backing papers, which are a lot different in materials and thickness than modern Kodak films. I discovered it when I started shooting Fujifilm which has thinner backing paper than Kodak and the indicator almost work perfectly, I could see it turning red on the third shot and almost full red at the end of the roll. Then I bought a roll of old dummy film from the 1990s to test out this theory, sure enough it works flawlessly. So it's not a bug, but a feature.
Thanks! It's been 40 yeara since I've done this, and I'd forgotten the use of the left side thingy to lock/unlock the paper. Sheesh. Sort of amuzing, though, that my '53 Rolleiflex automat is easier to load than the 500CM.
Bought an old film back (looks well taken care of). I noticed that the film progress window remained white instead of progressing to red. I thought my film wasn't advancing, though the film counter was moving forward. Once I opened the back, I knew the film had been progressing but my window wasn't reflecting this. The red indictor appeared when the film was removed and empty. Is there an easy fix to set this straight?
Hey Jonathan, thank you so much for the video! I've been shooting with my hasselblad for a while now, but recently after i load the film, when i wind it to the first frame, it the crank just keeps going and going until i actually wound the entire roll as "exposed". This has happened twice now and I'm not sure at which point I'm doing something wrong. Do you have any experience with this? Thank you so much in advance!
Anything mechanical including Hasselblad needs to be serviced. Every few years is fine unless you’re using it day-in-day-out. And always remember to ‘exercise’ the mechanism if you’re not using it for an extended period. Nothing mechanical likes being sat unused.
Yes, that’s the purpose of the darkslide. Once it’s inserted the backs can be removed and swapped. Allows you to swap from colour to black and white or between different formats, film speeds etc
Any digital back designed for Hasselblad will fit. However, some minor calibration may be needed so speak to your dealer or a good Hasselblad repairer.
Some people take the dark slide and remove the film back from the camera body when loading or unloading film. This is a waste of time and results in five items being juggled around: body, back, insert, dark slide, film. Leave the back connected to the body and just remove the insert. This reduces to three the items to be handled: body with back, insert, film.
Thanks for commenting. I’d recommend doing whatever works for you. If you prefer to leave the back on, that’s fine. If you’d rather take the back off, that’s fine too.
One more thing! One needs to make sure that your body is cranked before putting the back on, otherwise you'll waste the first frame just to cock the shutter.
Thank you, Mr. Harris! The locking mechanism which raises and lowers the film guide is most important. It is not adequately explained in other videos featured on YT. Thank you!
Glad it was useful- thanks
Great explanation. Very easy to understand.
Thanks. Enjoy your Hasselblad.
Just watched your video, and loaded my first roll of film into my A12-IV back. Success! My new (to me) 501CM is now a full day old, and ready to shoot.
Unfortunately, we are in the midst of getting 3" of snow. Our first in a couple of years, and the roads are not safe. We rarely get snow, and don't have the heavy snow plows and ample salt, so only the largest main arteries thru town get any salt at all.
Frustrating!
Thank you for this video on loading film. Your UA-cam channel has been a terrific source of information about the Hasselblad bodies and lenses.
Thank you, glad it’s useful.
Very helpful. First time loading and was afraid I’d break something. Thanks.
It’s always a bit tricky the first time, but before long, you’ll be able to do it with your eyes closed! Enjoy your Hasselblad!
Hi John.
I watch you all the time, and your knowledge is super helpful!! I've been getting into med format and feel I have a private tutor!! Keep up the good work. Your sharing of knowledge to help people out is gratefully appreciated!
Pal C.
Thanks - appreciated!
I didn’t know about the dark slide orientation. Great information. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear explanation. You have a David Attenborough-like delivery and voice. Quite enjoyable to listen to. Subscribed!
Thank you!
Very useful video for loading the film in! Best explanation I've seen yet, thank you!!
Thanks. Hasselblad backs are easy to load once you’ve done it a few times.
Very useful short, was always wondering about the right orientation of the slide.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Jonathan!
Hope it was useful!
One thing you forgot to mention: make sure the camera is wound BEFORE you put the film back on to take your first shot (both front and back will show white in the little round window if they are wound.). If the film back is wound but the camera isn’t, you will waste your first frame when the camera is wound and the camera/back will be “out of sync” with each other.
Thanks for commenting - always appreciated.
@parhelionMedia you are correct. Thanks for mentioning that. This camera is a unit and must work completely as so I've learned.
I made this very mistake twice! Thanks for the comment!
@r2d2rxr very easy mistake to make!
Should the film be loaded in a dark bag or dark room? I've had some light contamination. Thanks for the tips!
Light seals can deteriorate over time. If you’re seeing fogging I’d get the back serviced. It’s good practice to load and unload in the shade but dark bags should definitely not be needed!
Thanks for this. Is it necessary to keep the dark slide in when you're not shooting? It seems on every roll I'm getting 1 or 2 shots with light leaks, and seemingly from the side where the dark slide goes in. I've had the seals replaced too.
You should remove the dark slide if you’re not using the camera for an extended period but otherwise leave it in. If you’re getting light leaks every few rolls then maybe get the seal checked (I assume you’re not leaving the camera in bright light?)
Thanks. I didn't know about the dark slide. Could you explain the situation with A 24 - is it possible to use this back for film 120? If so, what are the nuances?
Or is it not recommended?
And one more question - when the camera is not in use for several days, should I leave it cocked or not?
Some do but personally I wouldn’t. Primary reason is that it won’t stop at 12 so you may end up taking pictures on the backing paper!
thank you so much
Hope it was useful.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange yes
Great video. Can a 501cm work with the A16 film back to do the 6x4.5?
Is there a prism or a way to see the 645 rectangle to compose for that frame?
You can buy viewfinder masks that drop onto the screen and show the 645 frame lines. Otherwise mark frame lines on an old screen. All A16s will work on a 501CM.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thanks! Have to get a mask
Thank you Jonathan, that answered a lot of my questions. I bought a 501CM with the later A12 back (one with the dark slide holder), and I noticed the "half moon" indicator on the film holder key. In my understanding, it should be gradually turning red as I shoot through the roll. On my first roll, the red bar didn't appear until the 7th shot, and when I finished the roll it was half white and half red. Then as I rolled the crank on the right, the indicator turned fully red. Is this intentional or is it something wrong with the back? Thanks again
Yes, the indicator shows how much film has run through the camera. I suspect yours may need adjusting but I wouldn’t worry unless you use it (most people never do!).
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Hi Jonathan, I think I figured out what happened! The indicator is supposed to be working properly with old 120 backing papers, which are a lot different in materials and thickness than modern Kodak films. I discovered it when I started shooting Fujifilm which has thinner backing paper than Kodak and the indicator almost work perfectly, I could see it turning red on the third shot and almost full red at the end of the roll. Then I bought a roll of old dummy film from the 1990s to test out this theory, sure enough it works flawlessly. So it's not a bug, but a feature.
Thanks
Thanks! It's been 40 yeara since I've done this, and I'd forgotten the use of the left side thingy to lock/unlock the paper. Sheesh. Sort of amuzing, though, that my '53 Rolleiflex automat is easier to load than the 500CM.
Yep! The Rolleiflex is such a simple design.
Sorry newbie here. Am I suppose to remove the dark slide before taking photos?
Yes.
Bought an old film back (looks well taken care of). I noticed that the film progress window remained white instead of progressing to red. I thought my film wasn't advancing, though the film counter was moving forward. Once I opened the back, I knew the film had been progressing but my window wasn't reflecting this. The red indictor appeared when the film was removed and empty. Is there an easy fix to set this straight?
Hasselblad backs do need to be regularly serviced. I am sure a service will sort the problem.
Hey Jonathan, thank you so much for the video! I've been shooting with my hasselblad for a while now, but recently after i load the film, when i wind it to the first frame, it the crank just keeps going and going until i actually wound the entire roll as "exposed". This has happened twice now and I'm not sure at which point I'm doing something wrong. Do you have any experience with this?
Thank you so much in advance!
It sounds like the back needs servicing. When was it last done? I expect the mechanism that locks when the first frame is reached is slipping.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I've never serviced it before - may need to get to doing that then! Thanks for the response Jonathan!
Anything mechanical including Hasselblad needs to be serviced. Every few years is fine unless you’re using it day-in-day-out. And always remember to ‘exercise’ the mechanism if you’re not using it for an extended period. Nothing mechanical likes being sat unused.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Great advice... Thank you! There certainly was a period of time where it was just sitting in the cabinet.
Hi, is it safe to remove the back (with the darkslide in) with unexposed film still inside? Thank you
Yes, that’s the purpose of the darkslide. Once it’s inserted the backs can be removed and swapped. Allows you to swap from colour to black and white or between different formats, film speeds etc
What digital backs work with 503 CW?
Any digital back designed for Hasselblad will fit. However, some minor calibration may be needed so speak to your dealer or a good Hasselblad repairer.
Some people take the dark slide and remove the film back from the camera body when loading or unloading film. This is a waste of time and results in five items being juggled around: body, back, insert, dark slide, film. Leave the back connected to the body and just remove the insert. This reduces to three the items to be handled: body with back, insert, film.
Thanks for commenting. I’d recommend doing whatever works for you. If you prefer to leave the back on, that’s fine. If you’d rather take the back off, that’s fine too.
One more thing! One needs to make sure that your body is cranked before putting the back on, otherwise you'll waste the first frame just to cock the shutter.
Yes, you should always wind on the camera before attaching/removing back or body. Thanks for commenting.