Thank-You, thank-you, thank-you. I will take delivery of my 1st 500C/M this week and my 60mm Distagon T* is coming as well. This video saved me a lot of trouble and startup issues. I've subscribed and will be viewing everything 500CM while waiting for my new equipment to be delivered! Very excited to get my first Hasselblad!!
First let me say a BIG thank you for straight forward explanation of this camera series. I just bought one and was looking for a video on how to use. After watching this video, I know the anatomy of the camera and dos and donts. I am so grateful for you sharing your knowledge of this masterpiece and of course add to the thumbs up and indeed subscribed! off to watching more of your videos on Hasselblad. Again thank you! GRATITUDE!
Thank you for all these videos. I just took my 500c out for the first time after watching your videos. I am beyond delighted at how easy it was to use. The EV scale makes it so easy to select the appropriate aperture / speed combos. The big viewfinder is fun to use, and not needing batteries even for the light meter / winding knob is a wecome feature. I can't wait to see how my first roll comes out. Thanks.
Only Just found this channel after buying a 500 cm and SWC , Excellent oration with simple instructions ! Well worth the last few hours catching up on all your programmes so far!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks! I just met the gentleman selling the camera on behalf of an elderly relative. I drove 2 hours. He brought the WRONG CAMERA. Now I’m just sitting at a mall waiting to see if he can go grab the correct camera. He did bring the 150mm F4 lens, but when I twisted aperture ring, the blades weren’t moving. Dang…
Hello Mr. Harris. My name is Richard Williams, 71yr old from Tulsa, Oklahoma and a photo enthusiast from 1965, can't stop, or care too. I'm using Lumix G9 and Nikon D850 and wanting to get back to the roots of my beginning with film. That being said my question is. I'm having a hard time understanding and finding any information on the difference between the Hasselblad 503CW and the 503cxi. Any information you could share with me would be so appreciated. I have both models available near meb in new plus condition with all papers and boxes at the $2,500 price range. Your videos are awesome with very helpful information. Take care and thanks ahead of time.
Hello Mr Williams. Both are exceptional cameras. The main difference is that the 503CW takes a winder (which I would NOT recommend). The 503CW is newer so that would be my preference, all other things being equal. But, that said, I’d always choose a clean 503CXi over a tatty 503CW. Also check the lens and back supplied with the cameras and make sure they are contemporaneous. Ideally you want the CFE version of the lens.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Sorry I just happened to have one question, did you get a chance to use the CF100 lenses, and would you recommend this lens over the CF80? Thank you!
Great video, easy to understand. However, there are two things you did not mention (which, sadly, most You Tubers don't mention either) - 1.When attaching a film back to the camera after loading film, ALWAYS check to be sure the camera shutter is cocked and ready to fire before attaching the back. 2. For some strange reason, no how-to videos seem to address the Red/White indicators on the film back, and on older 500 series bodies. On the film back, white indicates a fresh, unexposed frame ready to shoot. Red indicates an exposed frame, and must be advanced before firing the shutter. On some 500 series models, there's also a Red/White indicator on the body, very close to the indicator on the film back. On the body, when it's red, the shutter needs to be cocked. When it's white, the shutter is cocked and ready to go. In short, you need to see both as white before firing the camera. Two reds mean you have just fired the camera, and now need to cock the shutter, which will also advance the film to the next frame. With a mix-match of red & white, you need to remove the film back, and either cock or fire the camera. Note - Both indicators should always match in color.
Thanks for commenting. These videos don’t and shouldn’t replace the user manual. They’re an overview and only cover the more significant points. But, yes, always cock the camera before changing the lens or back. Hasselblad dropped the white/red indicator because it was seen as unnecessary … although I suspect cost cutting was also a reason. Hasselblad also removed the crescent-shaped indicator showing how much film has run through the back.
Hello Jonathan, My 503cw exhibits a little back focus issue with all lenses. Is there a solution I can run on my own? Please make a video on this if you can. Thank you.
These cameras are very clever with all the swiss watch like bells and whistles. I have an original 500C which I use with the 'NONS' instax square film back as well as the original magazines 12 and 16. I use an external light meter on the side shoe which is a pain. I'd like to get a metered prism, the problem is that most wouldn't fit around the NONS instax back, which has a corner that rises up 1cm or so into the area where the viewfinders extend over the magazine. The NC2 prism for instance doesn't quite fit, though an HC-4 certainly would. I'm very curious about the original PME viewfinder, my next problem is whether they will work with the original 500C screen, since many apparently require the acute matte.
Thanks for commenting. The later Hasselblad metered prisms are calibrated for the brighter screens. You still use with older screens but just need to adjust the exposure (roughly 2 stops): Buying a Hasselblad prism? 90 degree, 45 degree, metered or non-metered? We help explain the choices ua-cam.com/video/ThV7eGlIbOA/v-deo.html
Hello Jonathan. Not sure if you are still seeing these comments. This video was extremely helpful and probably one of the best I have see providing an overview of the 500 series. I have a question ...I am looking to get a 500series Hasselblad for landscape (mostly B&W) ...what lens woould you suggest as my first lens . Thanks
Glad it was useful - thank you. An 80mm lens is the best for general use. For landscapes perhaps a 50mm moderate wide angle and/or a 100mm moderate telephoto. It really depends upon your personal artistic preferences.
6x6 and 2 1/4 square are the generic terms used for the square format used by Hasselblad (and Rollei, Mamiya, Bronica etc). The Hasselblad image size isn’t exactly 60 x 60mm or 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 inches. For clarity, yes, it’s actually 56 x 56mm. This isn’t something that concerns the vast majority who just get out there and enjoy their cameras.
Hey Jonathan, I recently bought the left hand grip for my 500CM. However the bottom plate screw mount secures the camera just short of the shutter trigger making contact with the shutter. My bottom mount shoe has both the mounts, the handgrip only has a ¼ mount screw. When this is attached to my camera bottom plate mount, the trigger of the hand grip doesn’t make contact with my shutter. If I push the camera forward, the shutter trigger does make contact but the screw is too small for the bottom plate mount and the camera isn’t secured in the grip. Do you have any suggestions for this dilemma? Many thanks
Hi Jon. I just got a 503cw. One odd thing i noticed was the the acute matte D screen split prism is will be half-black unless i look at it at a very specific angle. Is this a common quirk of the camera?
Yes, that’s perfectly normal with Hasselblad (and other cameras too). Try to keep your eye directly above the centre of the screen. It can be worse with the non-standard lenses. The screen without the split image may be a better option for you if you continue to struggle.
The best option is to have the coverings replaced. It’s not a cheap job because the existing adhesive has to been completely removed but it’s worth having done.
Plenty of information online covering all the differences. Also check out Jon’s video: Buying a used Hasselblad? Checks to make when buying secondhand (500C 500CM 503CX 503CW 501C 501CM). ua-cam.com/video/-VXnFc6MvTw/v-deo.html
this video was really helpful for me. Clearly the most informative video about Hasselblad I've ever seen! thank you:)
You're very welcome!
Thank-You, thank-you, thank-you. I will take delivery of my 1st 500C/M this week and my 60mm Distagon T* is coming as well. This video saved me a lot of trouble and startup issues. I've subscribed and will be viewing everything 500CM while waiting for my new equipment to be delivered! Very excited to get my first Hasselblad!!
Glad it was useful. Enjoy your Hasselblad
First let me say a BIG thank you for straight forward explanation of this camera series. I just bought one and was looking for a video on how to use. After watching this video, I know the anatomy of the camera and dos and donts. I am so grateful for you sharing your knowledge of this masterpiece and of course add to the thumbs up and indeed subscribed! off to watching more of your videos on Hasselblad. Again thank you! GRATITUDE!
Thank you. Glad it was useful.
Great video! Soon will be on the Hasselblad boat. Can't wait. Haven't felt this excited since starting out in photography.
They’re fantastic cameras. Enjoy your Hasselblad!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you! Picked up a pristine condition 1971 500 C/M
Definitely the most useful and straight to the point, honest well filmed 501c video i’ve seen!
Thank you
Thank you for all these videos. I just took my 500c out for the first time after watching your videos. I am beyond delighted at how easy it was to use. The EV scale makes it so easy to select the appropriate aperture / speed combos. The big viewfinder is fun to use, and not needing batteries even for the light meter / winding knob is a wecome feature. I can't wait to see how my first roll comes out. Thanks.
The 500c is a fantastic camera! Look after it and it’ll last forever.
I don't wanna talk about the series of photos I took w/o the film being properly in the box... THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! for this video🙏
Glad it was useful!
Thanks for the infos ... my 501c jamed and i was able to ’repair’ it with your video and a scewdriver . you saved my life .... 😀 ...
Great to hear!
Only Just found this channel after buying a 500 cm and SWC , Excellent oration with simple instructions ! Well worth the last few hours catching up on all your programmes so far!
Thank you. Glad they’re useful. Enjoy your Hasselblads!
What helpful videos! Buying a 500 c/m with 80mm and 150mm. Very excited. Thank you for these videos!
Glad it was useful. Enjoy your Hasselblad!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks! I just met the gentleman selling the camera on behalf of an elderly relative. I drove 2 hours. He brought the WRONG CAMERA. Now I’m just sitting at a mall waiting to see if he can go grab the correct camera. He did bring the 150mm F4 lens, but when I twisted aperture ring, the blades weren’t moving. Dang…
Frustrating. Stop down the aperture using the depth of field preview. You should see then if the aperture is opening and closing.
Factual and quick to point
Thank you
As others have said, this really is the best intro video to this system and it is greatly appreciated! :)
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Mr. Harris.
My name is Richard Williams, 71yr old from Tulsa, Oklahoma and a photo enthusiast from 1965, can't stop, or care too.
I'm using Lumix G9 and Nikon D850 and wanting to get back to the roots of my beginning with film. That being said my question is.
I'm having a hard time understanding and finding any information on the difference between the Hasselblad 503CW and the 503cxi.
Any information you could share with me would be so appreciated.
I have both models available near meb in new plus condition with all papers and boxes at the $2,500 price range.
Your videos are awesome with very helpful information.
Take care and thanks ahead of time.
Hello Mr Williams. Both are exceptional cameras. The main difference is that the 503CW takes a winder (which I would NOT recommend). The 503CW is newer so that would be my preference, all other things being equal. But, that said, I’d always choose a clean 503CXi over a tatty 503CW. Also check the lens and back supplied with the cameras and make sure they are contemporaneous. Ideally you want the CFE version of the lens.
Thank you Sir. Take care and you information is very helpful.
Happy to help. Enjoy your Hasselblad!
Thank you so much for making this video! The explanations are in-depth and easy to understand!
My pleasure!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Sorry I just happened to have one question, did you get a chance to use the CF100 lenses, and would you recommend this lens over the CF80? Thank you!
Try both the Hasselblad 80mm and Hasselblad 100mm and choose the one which suits your photography best. It’s a very personal decision!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you so much for the reply sir! Hope you have a great day!
Thank you once again for the helpful series of videos Jonathan. I have recently bought a very nice 500c/m as a result.
The Hasselblad 500cm is a fantastic camera. Enjoy!
great video, simple to understand
Thank you
A truly excellent channel - sooo helpful - big thanks!
Thanks - glad it’s useful
Always a great series of videos - very informative.
Thanks
Great video, easy to understand. However, there are two things you did not mention (which, sadly, most You Tubers don't mention either) -
1.When attaching a film back to the camera after loading film, ALWAYS check to be sure the camera shutter is cocked and ready to fire before attaching the back.
2. For some strange reason, no how-to videos seem to address the Red/White indicators on the film back, and on older 500 series bodies. On the film back, white indicates a fresh, unexposed frame ready to shoot. Red indicates an exposed frame, and must be advanced before firing the shutter.
On some 500 series models, there's also a Red/White indicator on the body, very close to the indicator on the film back. On the body, when it's red, the shutter needs to be cocked. When it's white, the shutter is cocked and ready to go.
In short, you need to see both as white before firing the camera. Two reds mean you have just fired the camera, and now need to cock the shutter, which will also advance the film to the next frame. With a mix-match of red & white, you need to remove the film back, and either cock or fire the camera.
Note - Both indicators should always match in color.
Thanks for commenting. These videos don’t and shouldn’t replace the user manual. They’re an overview and only cover the more significant points. But, yes, always cock the camera before changing the lens or back. Hasselblad dropped the white/red indicator because it was seen as unnecessary … although I suspect cost cutting was also a reason. Hasselblad also removed the crescent-shaped indicator showing how much film has run through the back.
I love these videos. I hope you keep posting on this subject!
Thank you!
So helpful, thank you!
Glad you found it useful.
our videos are brilliant and very helpful. thank you.
You're very welcome!
Hello Jonathan, My 503cw exhibits a little back focus issue with all lenses. Is there a solution I can run on my own? Please make a video on this if you can. Thank you.
Possible mirror adjustment issue? Needs to be checked by Hasselblad technician.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you Jonathan, I will have it checked out. BTW I've learned so much from your channel. Thank you again :)
These cameras are very clever with all the swiss watch like bells and whistles. I have an original 500C which I use with the 'NONS' instax square film back as well as the original magazines 12 and 16. I use an external light meter on the side shoe which is a pain. I'd like to get a metered prism, the problem is that most wouldn't fit around the NONS instax back, which has a corner that rises up 1cm or so into the area where the viewfinders extend over the magazine. The NC2 prism for instance doesn't quite fit, though an HC-4 certainly would. I'm very curious about the original PME viewfinder, my next problem is whether they will work with the original 500C screen, since many apparently require the acute matte.
Thanks for commenting. The later Hasselblad metered prisms are calibrated for the brighter screens. You still use with older screens but just need to adjust the exposure (roughly 2 stops): Buying a Hasselblad prism? 90 degree, 45 degree, metered or non-metered? We help explain the choices
ua-cam.com/video/ThV7eGlIbOA/v-deo.html
Would like to see something like this on the Hasselblad H-System film cameras.
It’s on the list!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange That's very cool!
Congratulations,j Jonathan for your knowledge. Are you a camera lover or do you work with cameras?
Thanks - much appreciated. Both … I work with them and love (most of them) too.
Hello Jonathan. Not sure if you are still seeing these comments. This video was extremely helpful and probably one of the best I have see providing an overview of the 500 series. I have a question ...I am looking to get a 500series Hasselblad for landscape (mostly B&W) ...what lens woould you suggest as my first lens . Thanks
Glad it was useful - thank you. An 80mm lens is the best for general use. For landscapes perhaps a 50mm moderate wide angle and/or a 100mm moderate telephoto. It really depends upon your personal artistic preferences.
Is it really 60x60 or 56x56mm?
6x6 and 2 1/4 square are the generic terms used for the square format used by Hasselblad (and Rollei, Mamiya, Bronica etc). The Hasselblad image size isn’t exactly 60 x 60mm or 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 inches. For clarity, yes, it’s actually 56 x 56mm. This isn’t something that concerns the vast majority who just get out there and enjoy their cameras.
Hey Jonathan, I recently bought the left hand grip for my 500CM. However the bottom plate screw mount secures the camera just short of the shutter trigger making contact with the shutter. My bottom mount shoe has both the mounts, the handgrip only has a ¼ mount screw. When this is attached to my camera bottom plate mount, the trigger of the hand grip doesn’t make contact with my shutter. If I push the camera forward, the shutter trigger does make contact but the screw is too small for the bottom plate mount and the camera isn’t secured in the grip. Do you have any suggestions for this dilemma? Many thanks
The position and size of the thread varies. You’ll need to find a matching grip.
Hi Jon. I just got a 503cw. One odd thing i noticed was the the acute matte D screen split prism is will be half-black unless i look at it at a very specific angle. Is this a common quirk of the camera?
Yes, that’s perfectly normal with Hasselblad (and other cameras too). Try to keep your eye directly above the centre of the screen. It can be worse with the non-standard lenses. The screen without the split image may be a better option for you if you continue to struggle.
When life gets blurry adjust your focus & snap with Hasselblad.
👍
Where do the notches on the left side come from?
There is a cut-out on the Hasselblad film backs.
Would it be worthwhile to get a 100mm 3.5F lens for portraits?
Most would go for the Hasselblad 120mm or 150mm but, as always, it’s down to your personal preference and style. Maybe try one out before you commit?
The leather coverings on my Hasselblad equipment is Sticky! How should I clean it?
The best option is to have the coverings replaced. It’s not a cheap job because the existing adhesive has to been completely removed but it’s worth having done.
What are the biggest differences between the 500's/501's/503's?
Plenty of information online covering all the differences. Also check out Jon’s video:
Buying a used Hasselblad? Checks to make when buying secondhand (500C 500CM 503CX 503CW 501C 501CM).
ua-cam.com/video/-VXnFc6MvTw/v-deo.html
There should be 56mm by 56 mm image size, not 60. Thanks for video!
Yes, you’re right but the format is generically referred to as 6x6 (cm) or 2 1/4 (inches) square.
My 500c
I can't crank it and press the shutter.
When there is no film inside the back Is this normal or is it broken?
Take the back off. If it still doesn’t fire it needs servicing. You should download the manual so you’re 100% familiar with the functionality.
I really have a problem focusing.
Yes, you’re not the only one. The Hasselblad waist level finder can take time to master. The newer prisms and newer Acute matte screens might help?
I sold mine years ago because of the digital camera 📷 now I am very sad 😥 😢 now 😳
You’re not alone!