I had a small panic attack halfway through loading, so I stuck the film back in the camera and came to watch this video. After watching, I went and loaded the film without any issues! This really is the best 120 film loading tutorial I've seen! Thanks!
If I had to land a passenger plane in an emergency I'd want the maker of this video to be the guy talking me through it. So thank you for this video. Just watched this in Berlin and used it to load my first roll of 120 - without dramas. Appreciate your efforts with making it, the very clear and confident way you explain with just the right about of repeatition.
I've been loading film onto plastic reels since Yankee and FR were the big names for home darkroom. I never found 120/620/127 hard to get started on plastic reels -- where i had problems was on stainless. And when I figured out I could do *two rolls* of 120/620, one loaded after the other (taped together where the ends meet) on a single reel, I was done with stainless forever.
Ah...I had a feeling, that getting the film perfectly parallel to the spindle axle might be an issue...The online shop I purchased confirmed to me that Patterson has issues with 120 and recommended Jobo I also found a comment that recommended Kaiser. In Kaiser reels the tracks have about 13 mm high walls! I ordered... .. . both...😉
@@boredgrass IMO Paterson and Universal (with the big guide tabs to start the film) are the best for 120. I've never had trouble with them. Photos I found of the Kaiser look just like Universal, so should be easy-peasy.
You can load a second film behind the first and your developer will do twice as many films in half the time! Thaks for the loading tip. I wish I'd thought of it!
This was a super smashing tutorial. I'm just now preparing to get back into B&W photography after being away from it for over 40 years. Previously, I used stainless reels and tanks. I've never used a Peterson tank and reel, so I've felt concern about how to start the film on the reel. Your technique has given me the answer I need to be successful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge about this process. Super video. Well done!
Nice tips, very useful. I put a small piece of scotch tape on the left hand side directly under the left tab. That way in the changing bag I can immediately locate the left tab, and quickly line up the right tab guide. It’s been working but I like the old piece of film trick. Thank you!
I was so happy to see that you use the tape-end of the roll to put it on the reel. I think the folded over tape acts as a good guide to get it onto the reel. Awesome. 😀
Even though this installment is a year old, as a recent subscriber I wasn't able to see it till now. I've been using stainless steel tanks with Hewes reels for years. However for developing four or five rolls of 120 at a time I decided to try the Peterson 2.5 liter tank. I was simply having too much trouble loading the reels, though, and put off starting to use them. Then I saw this video. Genius! This trick makes loading the reels so much easier. I recently returned from a 23 day cruise through the Caribbean and the Panama Canal and back and I had twenty five rolls of 120 film to develop. So I had five development sessions as opposed to the thirteen I would have needed for my two reel stainless tanks. This video helped to make that task so much easier. Thank you!
Really great advisory, can't wait to get the rolleis back from service (after 50 years for the first time), unfortunately i had to get rid of fathers darkroom, so i have to start again.
I just had to comment. I’ve watched several UA-cam tutorials about this, and no one else has come even close to explaining it as well as you have. They all miss bits out, assuming that people know a certain amount about developing, eg terms, etc. Thank you so much for this video, I now feel much more confident for when my developing tank arrives. Liked and subscribed 🙏
Thanks for the insightful and methodical video walking through the process! Just loaded my first roll of 120 without issue. Going to go develop it as soon as my chemicals are warmed up!
Thank you for the tutorial! I'm just trying to get back on B/W film photography after 20 years and while I remember a lot of the basics I never got the chance to try 120 or 4x5, so the excitement and fear of trying something technically new can be overwhelming and discouraging, but clear and simple videos like yours help me to try, stop worrying and enjoy the ride...
Brilliant video. I have been shooting and developing medium format for about 3 years. Must have processed at least 50-60 rolls, yet I have learned so much from your video (I could never figure out what to do with the sticky tape at the end of the roll). Thanks so much!
I never would have thought. I’ve always removed the tape thinking it might be bad for the chemistry. And never removed the paper first. So then I’m always struggling to tear it off with the film mostly in the reel at the end. AND I can see how the tape would make it a tad stiffer, therefore easier to start. Brilliant! Thanks!!
recently got into developing film due to labs shutting down and running out of chemicals. This tip helped me out tremendously never thought about this one!
@@PictorialPlanet You are so welcome!! I just got into my first medium format system, and this is the first tutorial that makes me feel confident enough to do it 😅 I'll definitely be using your example if anyone asks me how to start as well. So, thank you from the community!!
I am thinking of moving to medium format but have been a bit daunted about loading the film for development. I thought you video was very useful. Thanks
I've used Paterson tanks all my photographic 'life' and like them a lot! Now in my late 60's I have Diabetic Neuropathy and I am loosing the sensation in my fingers! I think your tutorial has saved my bacon. Thank you!
@@PictorialPlanet Yes, will do! I've just looked at your post re: taking the ball bearings out of the spiral.... I might give that a try, as I have more spirals than I'll ever need I won't be risking anything. Regarding feeding the film in via the 'tapped' end, it never dawned on me that you don't HAVE to remove the tape! I did try this yesterday as I was getting so frustrated by the 'curly' end of the film.... But, so as to avoid the tendency of the film to curl (as shown at 6'11") I put a heavy 'drying clip' at the 'bottom end' of the film which, with the help of gravity, made it hang 'flat and open' without curling around my thumb! - if you see what I mean! Best wishes, and thanks again! Paul
@paulhyde1834 the heavy drying clip is a really good idea. I'm always happy that so many great ideas come up in my viewer comments, Paul! Yes, it's worth a try with the removal of the ball bearings on a spare reel. I find it allows me to feed the film in so much more easily.
The template idea is great. I quickly stopped using my paterson reel for 120 film after getting my hands on a couple of AP reels. They fit the paterson tank just the same but the extra guides make loading 120 and indeed 35mm film a lot easier. AP Reels are cheap as well, I always recommend them for 120 film instead of paterson reels.
Good tip re using a short strip of negatives to aid in threading the film, but I don’t remove all the backing paper first. I only separate the beginning of the film from the paper. The paper falls away naturally as you wind and therefore you minimise handling the film.
Some useful tips. I make loading the film onto the reel much easier by using Kaiser reels which have "wings" making it much easier to get the film started.
I'self make it the complete opposite way and it works fine too 😂 When unwinding the film roll I put the end off the film into the spool as soon as the film appears. I grab the film end with two fingers and pull directly in the spool (I don't push it) I pull it for about half of a spool wind. (Entrance of the spool is easy to find in the dark by touching with the fingers) After I simply make the back and forth mouvement with the spool, film unwinds itself and the paper rolls up separately by it's own When arriving at the beginning of the film, I tear the tape in front of the film, put the paper away, wind completely the rest of the film into the spool.
Great tip. First time I tried this, something got jammed and had to resort to my old method, called, struggle. Tried again today, it worked !. Must have been my 75 yr. old fingers , first try. Thanks. KB
@@PictorialPlanet No have not removed balls, as I do use these for 35mm also. With 35mm, I start the leader in day light, as the first few inches are already exposed .
Oh how helpful! Thank you! So much great information, so many helpful tips! Thank you! I just got my first Rollei, can't wait to develop it myself, it will save a fortune!
that tape bit on the end will help me tremendously. I dont have a problem starting the film on the reel its getting it to keep going seems to bind at some point and wont go on. I am going to try that.
Binding of the film, when it gets stuck, can be a real issue. I find keeping the reels very clean and making sure they are absolutely dry helps a lot. If my film does bind wiggling the reels seems to get it past the tough bit.
Thank you, this is so helpful! I've just bought a 1924 Kodak and after some renovation work I was very excited to load my first 120 film in it today with spool adapters. Now I've shot the film I wasn't sure how to split the film from the backing paper to get it into my Paterson tank. This was so clear and some great tips, thank you!
This was brilliantly done, thanks. I have never been able to develop 120 with the plastic ratchet Paterson reels. I'm sure with practice, this would work for me.
This was a timely one John. I usually use a durst to LPL tank with stainless steel reels but decided to use the Paterson tank for a change following the tip about the lid. It took me an age to get the film on the reel. I will definitely be trying this out next time.
one interesting fix for this, do like the LF guys do loading the sheet holders, put thumb and index finger on the entrance barbs and feed towards your other hand, should give a tactile sense if the film has gone in.
Thanks for the video! I just finished developing my first 120 roll. Despite it being the same stock that I've developed dozens of times in 35mm format, I was very nervous. All went well thankfully, even with my homebrew rodinal...
I hold with one hand the plastic spool and with other hand paper back and just pull. Film will roll it self you don't have to touch it. Film template is really nice tip that I will use for sure :) I use Jobo tank and reel and you don't even have to twist the reel since film sides get out of the reel so you can just use that to guide the film in.
As usual, outstanding tip, John. Purchased a Rolleiflex with a 3.5F Tessar TLR lens last week and shot a test roll of Pan F with it this afternoon. I will be using this tip in the darkroom. Merry Christmas, my friend!
Thank you for this very helpful video with clear step by step instructions! I think I will dare to try it now...:). So thank you again! I have heard that AP reels are easier for loading 120 film. Have you ever tried them?
great tip, one other is to cut some offcuts of developing paper, and use it, rather like the tongue tool to de-spool the 35 mm film (to get the leader out); just use the tape that you folded on the film, stick it to the "tongue" of the paper, and pull on it, like the demo, and make sure the tape is removed afterwards. this is simmilar in a way to using a "starting chord" on a mower, or outboard engine for the dinghy, but to pull the film through.
Great tips, I've so far used my AP tank (which is really easy to use as the spiral has guide tabs for the film, kind of like your tip of using a negative as a guide but these are molded into the spiral) as I've been using reusable developer (Cinestill Df96) so the amount I need to fill the tank does not really matter. But now I'm moving to Pyrocat HD which is a one shot developer so the less I can use the cheaper it gets. I have a small Russian 120 only tank which only needs something like 300 ml of chemistry, half the amount I need for the AP one, but I have not been able to get film on the spiral because no matter what I do the end of the film comes out of the groove after I get some of it In. I think this is partly because I use Fomapan film which is slightly thinner than for example Ilford and partly because of the sloppy tolerances and build quality of the Russian tank. So next time I'll definitely try the tape trick, maybe it will make the end of the film stiff enough to stay In the groove all the way. So thanks for the tip.
Unfortunately even the tape trick didn't work with this reel, it's simply too roughly made. No matter what I did I was not able to get more than maybe half of the film (still a lot more than without the tape) on the reel before it got stuck and wouldn't go further. Fortunately I anticipated that and had my trusty AP tank also in the changing bag so I loaded the film into that instead. The reel might work for a stiffer film but for Fomapan it's a no go.
@@PictorialPlanet Yes it is. and needs to be exposed at 100 or 150 to get decent density so the ISO is off too. I think I'll stick to Ilford in 35mm and 120 after I get through my current stock of Fomapan, much less hassle and not that much more expensive. Fortunately the Foma 4x5 seems to be okay once I got the exposure figured out, at less than half the price of HP5 I think I'll keep using it at least for the bulk of my 4x5 shooting.
@@PictorialPlanet I meant who / which band is performing and what is the name of the song so I can identify the music I wish to download ('legally') thanks, Bart
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you! with 35mm film i always found these little balls quite helpfull. But if stuck and with 120er film they annoy sometimes. I will test it with one castrated reel with no balls.
In fact, I had an experience with a 35mm film, after trying to insert the film into the screw of the Patterson tank, under a lot of blankets, sweat and anxiety on a summer day, because I do not have a black bag, but I succeeded in the end and was able to get the film stuck to the screw threads, and I also succeeded From repeating the ball with four films, but I did not try with the 120 mm film. The question here is whether there are holes in the film until it is attached to the teeth, or is that not a condition? I am waiting for an answer from the experts, thank you.
I couldn’t get the film to load cause of that tape you mentioned to keep on and so I had to cut it off. The second roll I did had a bit more tape on it cause of course it wasn’t a straight cut in the dark. I believe the adhesive chemicals turned my developing fluid bright green! You failed to mention that unless it didn’t happen to you. So now I’m wondering if the 500ml used to develop the roll is now useless or what. Any info? Thanks!
@framesngrains2933 your googling is correct. The colour doesn't come from the glue but the film because 120 film often has an anti-halation layer and the chemical in that layer comes out. The glue does no harm and doesn't affect development or the film at all - well, it hasn't in the last 50 years I've even doing it.
Even if you are invested in Paterson, the easiest way to deal with problems loading a Paterson reel is to buy a better quality reel (and tank). Which one? Practically any one you can find. The AP looks much the same. but appears to be much better made. It is also sold in the US by B&H and Freestyle, relabeled as their store brand equipment. Do you think the big stores know something there?
Thank you very much for sharing! I am just able to self develop my first roll of medium format triX. I had been developing 35mm all along. The tip on feeling the direction of the film tip when loading the reel into the tank is useful. But if I alternate turning the stick both directions when I agitate, I suppose the film tip direction would not be that much an issue?
Thanks for your comment, Jacky. By twisting toward the open end I find I get better movement of developer across the film. The downside of going the "wrong" way is there's little movement of developer and therefore less than optimal agitation. The art of black and white developing is in optimising every stage of the process to make the highest quality negatives for our later printing or scanning.
Hi Martin. Yes, I've always recommended removing the bearings. Here's my website page about it: www.pictorialplanet.com/beginner_photography/beginner_photography/easy_reel_loading.html
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, I had no trouble loading most films with the bearings until I tried 127 film and that was a pain in the backside to get it over the bearings, it was a thin film Shanghi GP3 so don't know why it was so , will try this method now, thanks
Old timey darkroom guy here. Strated loading 120 reels (620 actually) in the 1950's. On a 3 month 5000 mile trip and no room to bring my 4 reel SS tanks and reels for 120. I just bought the Patterson tank while traveling so I can develop rolls so I can be sure I don't have an exposure failure. In the dark my fingers don't have to think about the degree of cupping and the amount of tension on the film as my other hand rotates the reel. It just happens - sorta like a knee jerk when the Doc taps your knee. I am not convinced at this moment the Paterson reel is the answer but I will be souping the first rolls tomorrow. We shall see.
Development went fine. This was a total experiment, not just the Patterson reel. The film expired in 2006 (Tri-X 320) The developer is one I have never used (Diafine) and does not need temperature control or careful timing. The film was curled so tight after 18 years it was wrestling with an octopus to get it on the reel. I took shots at box speed, pushed 1 stop and pushed 2 stops. For the most part the 1 stop push negatives look the best, but all three are printable, but the box speed are dense and will need a bit of expertise to coax a good print.. I have to say the Patterson 120 reel seems far more difficult to load than the typical stainless reel. I have a fresh Tri-X 400 in the camera now (C330 TLR) and we shall see how well it loads.
Thanks a lot John for this excellent tip, can't wait to try it out! :-) Yesterday I removed the small annoying metal balls from all of my plastic film reels as you advised in another of your wonderful videos: It's so much easier to load the film now! Thanks! :-)
Easiest way is to replace the reels with Omega Universal Adjustable Multi-format Reel (35/220) which I ordered from BHPhoto. They fit perfectly and have a lip to guide 35mm and 120 film onto the reels, Works perfectly and SO much less frustration. I have 4 of them.
![How to Load Film Onto a Reel [For JOBO, Paterson, AP, and more]](/img/n.gif)
I had a small panic attack halfway through loading, so I stuck the film back in the camera and came to watch this video. After watching, I went and loaded the film without any issues! This really is the best 120 film loading tutorial I've seen! Thanks!
Good job, keeping it all together!
If I had to land a passenger plane in an emergency I'd want the maker of this video to be the guy talking me through it. So thank you for this video. Just watched this in Berlin and used it to load my first roll of 120 - without dramas. Appreciate your efforts with making it, the very clear and confident way you explain with just the right about of repeatition.
I've been loading film onto plastic reels since Yankee and FR were the big names for home darkroom. I never found 120/620/127 hard to get started on plastic reels -- where i had problems was on stainless. And when I figured out I could do *two rolls* of 120/620, one loaded after the other (taped together where the ends meet) on a single reel, I was done with stainless forever.
I like the kodak skirts! Ive never had a problem with them
Ah...I had a feeling, that getting the film perfectly parallel to the spindle axle might be an issue...The online shop I purchased confirmed to me that Patterson has issues with 120 and recommended Jobo I also found a comment that recommended Kaiser. In Kaiser reels the tracks have about 13 mm high walls! I ordered... .. . both...😉
@@boredgrass IMO Paterson and Universal (with the big guide tabs to start the film) are the best for 120. I've never had trouble with them. Photos I found of the Kaiser look just like Universal, so should be easy-peasy.
This is a GREAT tip actually! I always get anxious and frustrated loading 120 in completely dark. Thanks so much!
You can load a second film behind the first and your developer will do twice as many films in half the time!
Thaks for the loading tip. I wish I'd thought of it!
This was a super smashing tutorial. I'm just now preparing to get back into B&W photography after being away from it for over 40 years. Previously, I used stainless reels and tanks. I've never used a Peterson tank and reel, so I've felt concern about how to start the film on the reel. Your technique has given me the answer I need to be successful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge about this process. Super video. Well done!
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing 😊
Cheers, Miranda!
Nice tips, very useful. I put a small piece of scotch tape on the left hand side directly under the left tab. That way in the changing bag I can immediately locate the left tab, and quickly line up the right tab guide. It’s been working but I like the old piece of film trick. Thank you!
Thanks!
I was so happy to see that you use the tape-end of the roll to put it on the reel. I think the folded over tape acts as a good guide to get it onto the reel. Awesome. 😀
Yes, and helps make the end stiffer. Glad you're onboard!
Even though this installment is a year old, as a recent subscriber I wasn't able to see it till now. I've been using stainless steel tanks with Hewes reels for years. However for developing four or five rolls of 120 at a time I decided to try the Peterson 2.5 liter tank. I was simply having too much trouble loading the reels, though, and put off starting to use them. Then I saw this video. Genius! This trick makes loading the reels so much easier. I recently returned from a 23 day cruise through the Caribbean and the Panama Canal and back and I had twenty five rolls of 120 film to develop. So I had five development sessions as opposed to the thirteen I would have needed for my two reel stainless tanks. This video helped to make that task so much easier. Thank you!
Yay! That's what I like to hear!
you're a natural teacher. thank you for the tutorial !!
Cheers, Merima!
Thanks for the tips boss
A pleasure
Brilliant! That loading tip is by far the best I've seen. One less hurdle to jump. Thank you sir.
Good tips. I have ditched the Paterson film reels and replaced with the Arista Premium Reels, they make a world of a difference.
Really great advisory, can't wait to get the rolleis back from service (after 50 years for the first time), unfortunately i had to get rid of fathers darkroom, so i have to start again.
Go for it!
I just had to comment. I’ve watched several UA-cam tutorials about this, and no one else has come even close to explaining it as well as you have. They all miss bits out, assuming that people know a certain amount about developing, eg terms, etc. Thank you so much for this video, I now feel much more confident for when my developing tank arrives. Liked and subscribed 🙏
Thanks!
Just tried your film guiding trick. Worked like a charm in the dark!
Thanks for the insightful and methodical video walking through the process! Just loaded my first roll of 120 without issue. Going to go develop it as soon as my chemicals are warmed up!
Congrats!
Thank you for the tutorial! I'm just trying to get back on B/W film photography after 20 years and while I remember a lot of the basics I never got the chance to try 120 or 4x5, so the excitement and fear of trying something technically new can be overwhelming and discouraging, but clear and simple videos like yours help me to try, stop worrying and enjoy the ride...
That's good to hear Fernando! Keep on watching, there's plenty more to come.
Brilliant video. I have been shooting and developing medium format for about 3 years. Must have processed at least 50-60 rolls, yet I have learned so much from your video (I could never figure out what to do with the sticky tape at the end of the roll). Thanks so much!
You're very welcome and thanks for your comment!
this tutorial was amazing!
and your tone and voice is so, honestly excited about teaching - it's amazing!
Excellent tips...especially the twizzle stick tip! Thank you kindly.
Thank you, John!
RAF?
I've loaded dozens of 120 reels and never thought of removing all the paper first. Thanks for the tip. I'll try that the next time.
I never would have thought. I’ve always removed the tape thinking it might be bad for the chemistry. And never removed the paper first. So then I’m always struggling to tear it off with the film mostly in the reel at the end. AND I can see how the tape would make it a tad stiffer, therefore easier to start. Brilliant! Thanks!!
This is so amazing. That one tip is just such a game-changer for me. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it.
You are very welcome Johan!
recently got into developing film due to labs shutting down and running out of chemicals.
This tip helped me out tremendously never thought about this one!
Good stuff Liam! Stick with us here and you'll never go back to those labs.
So many INCREDiBLE tips in this one video. I'm gobsmacked. This is clearly years of experience and tricks generously shared for everyone. Thank you!!!
What a kind comment! Thank you, d.
@@PictorialPlanet You are so welcome!! I just got into my first medium format system, and this is the first tutorial that makes me feel confident enough to do it 😅 I'll definitely be using your example if anyone asks me how to start as well. So, thank you from the community!!
I am thinking of moving to medium format but have been a bit daunted about loading the film for development. I thought you video was very useful. Thanks
You're welcome Andrew!
I've used Paterson tanks all my photographic 'life' and like them a lot! Now in my late 60's I have Diabetic Neuropathy and I am loosing the sensation in my fingers! I think your tutorial has saved my bacon. Thank you!
It makes me very happy, Paul, that you can keep making photographs! Drop me a line if you want to chat.
@@PictorialPlanet Yes, will do! I've just looked at your post re: taking the ball bearings out of the spiral.... I might give that a try, as I have more spirals than I'll ever need I won't be risking anything. Regarding feeding the film in via the 'tapped' end, it never dawned on me that you don't HAVE to remove the tape!
I did try this yesterday as I was getting so frustrated by the 'curly' end of the film.... But, so as to avoid the tendency of the film to curl (as shown at 6'11") I put a heavy 'drying clip' at the 'bottom end' of the film which, with the help of gravity, made it hang 'flat and open' without curling around my thumb! - if you see what I mean!
Best wishes, and thanks again!
Paul
@paulhyde1834 the heavy drying clip is a really good idea. I'm always happy that so many great ideas come up in my viewer comments, Paul! Yes, it's worth a try with the removal of the ball bearings on a spare reel. I find it allows me to feed the film in so much more easily.
John, the film template idea is genius...another brilliantly informative video. Thank you.
Cheers Charles!
@@PictorialPlanet and it works a treat...I’ve just loaded a film in record time with no creases after years of struggling!
Awesome!
Brilliant advice - Thank you. Even the tip about leaving the tape on was really helpful.
Cheers John!
This video changed my life
brilliant tutorial. I've developed several 120 mm rolls since I watched this. Thanks!!
Good news!
The template idea is great. I quickly stopped using my paterson reel for 120 film after getting my hands on a couple of AP reels. They fit the paterson tank just the same but the extra guides make loading 120 and indeed 35mm film a lot easier. AP Reels are cheap as well, I always recommend them for 120 film instead of paterson reels.
Good to know, Mark!
Where can someone find an AP reel?
This inspired tip will be invaluable when I finally work up the nerve to start shooting x
Good tip re using a short strip of negatives to aid in threading the film, but I don’t remove all the backing paper first. I only separate the beginning of the film from the paper. The paper falls away naturally as you wind and therefore you minimise handling the film.
Thanks for your comment and kind words.
Some useful tips. I make loading the film onto the reel much easier by using Kaiser reels which have "wings" making it much easier to get the film started.
I have one of those reels. Yes, the wings make it easier to load, for sure.
I'self make it the complete opposite way and it works fine too 😂
When unwinding the film roll I put the end off the film into the spool as soon as the film appears.
I grab the film end with two fingers and pull directly in the spool (I don't push it) I pull it for about half of a spool wind. (Entrance of the spool is easy to find in the dark by touching with the fingers)
After I simply make the back and forth mouvement with the spool, film unwinds itself and the paper rolls up separately by it's own
When arriving at the beginning of the film, I tear the tape in front of the film, put the paper away, wind completely the rest of the film into the spool.
The very best tip I've seen so far. Thank you so much.
Thank you, this a verry good tip !
I always hassle with 120 film, it got much better since I use a spool with lage lips.
Why have I never realised to use the tape end to load first? Great tip and well explained. Thank you.
Great tip. First time I tried this, something got jammed and had to resort to my old method, called, struggle. Tried again today, it worked !. Must have been my 75 yr. old fingers , first try. Thanks. KB
That's good to hear Ken. Have you removed the little ball bearings from your Paterson reel? It helps loading for me to always take them out.
@@PictorialPlanet No have not removed balls, as I do use these for 35mm also. With 35mm, I start the leader in day light, as the first few inches are already exposed .
Me too but I find the end stays in ok.
Oh how helpful! Thank you! So much great information, so many helpful tips! Thank you! I just got my first Rollei, can't wait to develop it myself, it will save a fortune!
Yes, home development will really open up possibilities.
Excelente tutorial, Gracias, Saludos desde Colombia.
Thank you!
that tape bit on the end will help me tremendously. I dont have a problem starting the film on the reel its getting it to keep going seems to bind at some point and wont go on. I am going to try that.
Binding of the film, when it gets stuck, can be a real issue. I find keeping the reels very clean and making sure they are absolutely dry helps a lot. If my film does bind wiggling the reels seems to get it past the tough bit.
Using old negs for a template to start the film in the reel - GREAT!!!! THANKS!!!!
You got it, Steve!
Thank You for shortening my ages of loading film in a Paterson or Jobo tank :-)))
You're very welcome!
Best video on UA-cam!!! Saved me a trip back to the store to return 😂😂
That's good news! Glad you liked it, alquan.
Thank you, this is so helpful! I've just bought a 1924 Kodak and after some renovation work I was very excited to load my first 120 film in it today with spool adapters. Now I've shot the film I wasn't sure how to split the film from the backing paper to get it into my Paterson tank. This was so clear and some great tips, thank you!
Thank you, Helen! So glad the video helped.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I destroyed two rolls of 120 today, I'm more used to 35mm. I shall try again.....
We've all been there :) Practice makes perfect 👌
This was brilliantly done, thanks. I have never been able to develop 120 with the plastic ratchet Paterson reels. I'm sure with practice, this would work for me.
Thanks Dale.
This was a timely one John. I usually use a durst to LPL tank with stainless steel reels but decided to use the Paterson tank for a change following the tip about the lid. It took me an age to get the film on the reel. I will definitely be trying this out next time.
one interesting fix for this, do like the LF guys do loading the sheet holders, put thumb and index finger on the entrance barbs and feed towards your other hand, should give a tactile sense if the film has gone in.
Thanks for the video! I just finished developing my first 120 roll. Despite it being the same stock that I've developed dozens of times in 35mm format, I was very nervous. All went well thankfully, even with my homebrew rodinal...
Good job, C!
Thank you this helped me a lot with loading my first roll of 120!
I'm glad it helped, Ryan! Your first roll of 120? Welcome to the medium format club my friend.
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you kindly!
great advise for a beginner, thanks a million!
Thanks, Tele!
Thank you, sir! Your explanation is filled with warmth. 👍❤️
Thank you, Eugene
ive lost so much sweat without this simple method
I hold with one hand the plastic spool and with other hand paper back and just pull. Film will roll it self you don't have to touch it. Film template is really nice tip that I will use for sure :)
I use Jobo tank and reel and you don't even have to twist the reel since film sides get out of the reel so you can just use that to guide the film in.
That's great!
Muy buen video, justo estaba vierndo como simplificar esto. Fui muy util. Muchas gracias, voy a probar. Ricardo desde Argentina.
🙏
With the end of the paper folded over, I like to make a 1/2 inch cut in the end of the sealing strip so it's easy to tear open in the changing bag.
Good tip, Bob!
As usual, outstanding tip, John. Purchased a Rolleiflex with a 3.5F Tessar TLR lens last week and shot a test roll of Pan F with it this afternoon. I will be using this tip in the darkroom. Merry Christmas, my friend!
Merry Christmas to you and your family Frank!
Some brilliant tips there. Thanks
Thank, Ian!
Great video. I use plastic kitchen gloves- really cheap- when I'm handling film. Very thin and if I sweat in the dark bag it's no sweat!
This video makes me feel better about accidentally touching the film, this guy is putting his fingers all over it!
Yeah, you don't have to worry, Taylor, just make sure you have clean hands.
Great tips, do you ever load 2 rolls at the same time if so how do you know when first roll is fully loaded.
Thanks.
I don't.
Great tip, John. Very useful for thin films like Fomapan which are fidly to load.
7:50 the turning with a twizzle stick is this a colour neg step? For BW is the standard agitation by moving gently around the same as with 35mm?
🔄
You can use the twizzle stick for black and white.
@@PictorialPlanet is that instead of agitating by inverting the Patterson tank?
@flowermaze___ yes, ua-cam.com/video/Ud-Aw6U7KH4/v-deo.htmlsi=dBsm2ktHweHK8Tv5
Great tips, especially the dummy film acting as a guide! Thanks!
Your welcome bt
This might end up helping me a lot. Thanks!
Thank you for this very helpful video with clear step by step instructions! I think I will dare to try it now...:). So thank you again! I have heard that AP reels are easier for loading 120 film. Have you ever tried them?
I have and they are a tad easier.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks I will try them first then..:)
Excellent tutorial, and just to confirm - is it OK to touch the undeveloped film? Won't it leave finger prints or smudges?
Wash your hands with dish wash soap. It takes the oil from your skin and means you won't leave residue. Never had a problem.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, I've been sending my films to be developed for years, time to do it myself!
Always good advice 👍
Thank you, this was the best explanation and presentation!
You're very welcome!
great tip, one other is to cut some offcuts of developing paper, and use it, rather like the tongue tool to de-spool the 35 mm film (to get the leader out); just use the tape that you folded on the film, stick it to the "tongue" of the paper, and pull on it, like the demo, and make sure the tape is removed afterwards. this is simmilar in a way to using a "starting chord" on a mower, or outboard engine for the dinghy, but to pull the film through.
Great tips, I've so far used my AP tank (which is really easy to use as the spiral has guide tabs for the film, kind of like your tip of using a negative as a guide but these are molded into the spiral) as I've been using reusable developer (Cinestill Df96) so the amount I need to fill the tank does not really matter. But now I'm moving to Pyrocat HD which is a one shot developer so the less I can use the cheaper it gets.
I have a small Russian 120 only tank which only needs something like 300 ml of chemistry, half the amount I need for the AP one, but I have not been able to get film on the spiral because no matter what I do the end of the film comes out of the groove after I get some of it In. I think this is partly because I use Fomapan film which is slightly thinner than for example Ilford and partly because of the sloppy tolerances and build quality of the Russian tank.
So next time I'll definitely try the tape trick, maybe it will make the end of the film stiff enough to stay In the groove all the way. So thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, the tape should help stiffen the end of the thinner film. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Unfortunately even the tape trick didn't work with this reel, it's simply too roughly made. No matter what I did I was not able to get more than maybe half of the film (still a lot more than without the tape) on the reel before it got stuck and wouldn't go further. Fortunately I anticipated that and had my trusty AP tank also in the changing bag so I loaded the film into that instead.
The reel might work for a stiffer film but for Fomapan it's a no go.
Dang that film's so thin!
@@PictorialPlanet Yes it is. and needs to be exposed at 100 or 150 to get decent density so the ISO is off too. I think I'll stick to Ilford in 35mm and 120 after I get through my current stock of Fomapan, much less hassle and not that much more expensive.
Fortunately the Foma 4x5 seems to be okay once I got the exposure figured out, at less than half the price of HP5 I think I'll keep using it at least for the bulk of my 4x5 shooting.
Excellent video. Thanks for this! 😊
You’re a legend mate. Great tip. Subbed.
Hello - interesting video !! Thanks - what is the music at the very end ? It are bagpipes but who is performing? Now back to my Hasselblad 500 …!!
Thanks! The music is from the free Final Cut Pro sound library.
@@PictorialPlanet I meant who / which band is performing and what is the name of the song so I can identify the music I wish to download ('legally') thanks, Bart
I understand but Final Cut Pro doesn’t tell you who wrote or played the song, it’s just a “jingle”. All I know is it’s called Shetland. Sorry Bart.
@@PictorialPlanet Ok - thanks !! wished I lived in Scotland ... !!!
Yes, living here is amazing! I'm very lucky 🍀
Great tip. Why are twizzler sticks too short?
Ha! Good point. We need a video on lengthening a twizzler stick ;)
It is a good idea with the short strip as a template. Did you remove the little metal balls or how do you get the film pulled back?
www.pictorialplanet.com/beginner_photography/beginner_photography/easy_reel_loading.html
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you! with 35mm film i always found these little balls quite helpfull. But if stuck and with 120er film they annoy sometimes. I will test it with one castrated reel with no balls.
Woooooooow 🤯 great tip thanks!
what an excellent video, thank you sir
Cheers 🍻
Does leaving the tape on the film as you displayed, not cause any reactions or issues during developing with the chemicals?
Thanks
Hi Monte, none at all.
In fact, I had an experience with a 35mm film, after trying to insert the film into the screw of the Patterson tank, under a lot of blankets, sweat and anxiety on a summer day, because I do not have a black bag, but I succeeded in the end and was able to get the film stuck to the screw threads, and I also succeeded From repeating the ball with four films, but I did not try with the 120 mm film. The question here is whether there are holes in the film until it is attached to the teeth, or is that not a condition? I am waiting for an answer from the experts, thank you.
Well done!
I couldn’t get the film to load cause of that tape you mentioned to keep on and so I had to cut it off. The second roll I did had a bit more tape on it cause of course it wasn’t a straight cut in the dark. I believe the adhesive chemicals turned my developing fluid bright green! You failed to mention that unless it didn’t happen to you. So now I’m wondering if the 500ml used to develop the roll is now useless or what. Any info? Thanks!
Is this your first time developing 120 film?
@@PictorialPlanet I googled my situation and apparently it’s normal. Well, it was my third roll of 120 developed but ninth overall
@framesngrains2933 your googling is correct. The colour doesn't come from the glue but the film because 120 film often has an anti-halation layer and the chemical in that layer comes out. The glue does no harm and doesn't affect development or the film at all - well, it hasn't in the last 50 years I've even doing it.
@@PictorialPlanet now I’m at ease 🤣 thanks for the responses!
Even if you are invested in Paterson, the easiest way to deal with problems loading a Paterson reel is to buy a better quality reel (and tank). Which one? Practically any one you can find. The AP looks much the same. but appears to be much better made. It is also sold in the US by B&H and Freestyle, relabeled as their store brand equipment. Do you think the big stores know something there?
Good point, Randall!
Thank you very much for sharing! I am just able to self develop my first roll of medium format triX. I had been developing 35mm all along.
The tip on feeling the direction of the film tip when loading the reel into the tank is useful. But if I alternate turning the stick both directions when I agitate, I suppose the film tip direction would not be that much an issue?
Thanks for your comment, Jacky. By twisting toward the open end I find I get better movement of developer across the film. The downside of going the "wrong" way is there's little movement of developer and therefore less than optimal agitation. The art of black and white developing is in optimising every stage of the process to make the highest quality negatives for our later printing or scanning.
Thanks for this excellent tip!
Cheers from France, jeqn
Hello France!
I notice in this video there are no ball bearings to pull the film onto the reel, have you removed them and if so why, thanks
Hi Martin. Yes, I've always recommended removing the bearings. Here's my website page about it:
www.pictorialplanet.com/beginner_photography/beginner_photography/easy_reel_loading.html
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, I had no trouble loading most films with the bearings until I tried 127 film and that was a pain in the backside to get it over the bearings, it was a thin film Shanghi GP3 so don't know why it was so , will try this method now, thanks
Old timey darkroom guy here. Strated loading 120 reels (620 actually) in the 1950's. On a 3 month 5000 mile trip and no room to bring my 4 reel SS tanks and reels for 120. I just bought the Patterson tank while traveling so I can develop rolls so I can be sure I don't have an exposure failure. In the dark my fingers don't have to think about the degree of cupping and the amount of tension on the film as my other hand rotates the reel. It just happens - sorta like a knee jerk when the Doc taps your knee. I am not convinced at this moment the Paterson reel is the answer but I will be souping the first rolls tomorrow. We shall see.
How did the development go using Paterson reels?
Development went fine. This was a total experiment, not just the Patterson reel. The film expired in 2006 (Tri-X 320) The developer is one I have never used (Diafine) and does not need temperature control or careful timing. The film was curled so tight after 18 years it was wrestling with an octopus to get it on the reel. I took shots at box speed, pushed 1 stop and pushed 2 stops. For the most part the 1 stop push negatives look the best, but all three are printable, but the box speed are dense and will need a bit of expertise to coax a good print.. I have to say the Patterson 120 reel seems far more difficult to load than the typical stainless reel. I have a fresh Tri-X 400 in the camera now (C330 TLR) and we shall see how well it loads.
Thanks a lot John for this excellent tip, can't wait to try it out! :-) Yesterday I removed the small annoying metal balls from all of my plastic film reels as you advised in another of your wonderful videos: It's so much easier to load the film now! Thanks! :-)
You are welcome Jakob. I'm very pleased you're finding it easier to load the reels and thank you for taking the time to leave a comment!
Thank you very much. Happy New Year.
Happy new year to you too!
5:00 thanks so much for this
👍
Hello. Wow. So we basically can’t use the plastic reels with a steel tank?
Nope, they won't fit. Buy a Paterson universal tank.
Great tip! Thank you!
Cheers Sile!
Easiest way is to replace the reels with
Omega Universal Adjustable Multi-format Reel (35/220) which I ordered from BHPhoto. They fit perfectly and have a lip to guide 35mm and 120 film onto the reels, Works perfectly and SO much less frustration. I have 4 of them.
Good tip!
Thank you so much for your the video! ✌️
Good tip for beginners,.....and for film which like to hard to handle
Thank you Peter!
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Brilliant! Thanks!
Great video