The Easy Way to Load 120 Film Into a Paterson Tank!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Today's tip covers the handling of 120 film.
This tip is useful after removing your reel's ball bearings. See: www.pictorialpl...
1. I talk about what to do after taking the film out of the camera.
2. How to prepare the film for the developing tank (Paterson or the like).
3. How to easily load the film onto a 120 spool ready for developing in 510-Pyro, FX55, Pyrocat or whatever developer you use.
John Finch
www.pictorialpl...
![How to Load Film Onto a Reel [For JOBO, Paterson, AP, and more]](/img/n.gif)
I've been loading film onto plastic reels since Yankee and FR were the big names for home darkroom. I never found 120/620/127 hard to get started on plastic reels -- where i had problems was on stainless. And when I figured out I could do *two rolls* of 120/620, one loaded after the other (taped together where the ends meet) on a single reel, I was done with stainless forever.
I like the kodak skirts! Ive never had a problem with them
Ah...I had a feeling, that getting the film perfectly parallel to the spindle axle might be an issue...The online shop I purchased confirmed to me that Patterson has issues with 120 and recommended Jobo I also found a comment that recommended Kaiser. In Kaiser reels the tracks have about 13 mm high walls! I ordered... .. . both...😉
@@boredgrass IMO Paterson and Universal (with the big guide tabs to start the film) are the best for 120. I've never had trouble with them. Photos I found of the Kaiser look just like Universal, so should be easy-peasy.
I was so happy to see that you use the tape-end of the roll to put it on the reel. I think the folded over tape acts as a good guide to get it onto the reel. Awesome. 😀
Yes, and helps make the end stiffer. Glad you're onboard!
I had a small panic attack halfway through loading, so I stuck the film back in the camera and came to watch this video. After watching, I went and loaded the film without any issues! This really is the best 120 film loading tutorial I've seen! Thanks!
Good job, keeping it all together!
Brilliant advice - Thank you. Even the tip about leaving the tape on was really helpful.
Cheers John!
This was brilliantly done, thanks. I have never been able to develop 120 with the plastic ratchet Paterson reels. I'm sure with practice, this would work for me.
Thanks Dale.
Good tip for beginners,.....and for film which like to hard to handle
Thank you Peter!
It seems that you have omitted to say that you have removed the small ball bearings from the reel ratchet mechanism. Unless you remove the ball bearings you cannot pull your bit of guide film out.
Very good point, Keith. Yes, I always remove my ball bearings. I'll add that to the notes. Here's my website page explaining this procedure for those following this thread: www.pictorialplanet.com/beginner_photography/beginner_photography/easy_reel_loading.html
You can load a second film behind the first and your developer will do twice as many films in half the time!
Thaks for the loading tip. I wish I'd thought of it!
This was a super smashing tutorial. I'm just now preparing to get back into B&W photography after being away from it for over 40 years. Previously, I used stainless reels and tanks. I've never used a Peterson tank and reel, so I've felt concern about how to start the film on the reel. Your technique has given me the answer I need to be successful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge about this process. Super video. Well done!
Thank you!
Thank you for the tutorial! I'm just trying to get back on B/W film photography after 20 years and while I remember a lot of the basics I never got the chance to try 120 or 4x5, so the excitement and fear of trying something technically new can be overwhelming and discouraging, but clear and simple videos like yours help me to try, stop worrying and enjoy the ride...
That's good to hear Fernando! Keep on watching, there's plenty more to come.
This is a GREAT tip actually! I always get anxious and frustrated loading 120 in completely dark. Thanks so much!
If I had to land a passenger plane in an emergency I'd want the maker of this video to be the guy talking me through it. So thank you for this video. Just watched this in Berlin and used it to load my first roll of 120 - without dramas. Appreciate your efforts with making it, the very clear and confident way you explain with just the right about of repeatition.
This is so amazing. That one tip is just such a game-changer for me. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate it.
You are very welcome Johan!
crazy clockwise. tank is full and film sliding in chemicals no matter how its loaded.
:(
I'self make it the complete opposite way and it works fine too 😂
When unwinding the film roll I put the end off the film into the spool as soon as the film appears.
I grab the film end with two fingers and pull directly in the spool (I don't push it) I pull it for about half of a spool wind. (Entrance of the spool is easy to find in the dark by touching with the fingers)
After I simply make the back and forth mouvement with the spool, film unwinds itself and the paper rolls up separately by it's own
When arriving at the beginning of the film, I tear the tape in front of the film, put the paper away, wind completely the rest of the film into the spool.
I am thinking of moving to medium format but have been a bit daunted about loading the film for development. I thought you video was very useful. Thanks
You're welcome Andrew!
get Gepe/HP Combina Tank with loaders. All problems solved!
What was your old tank?
@@PictorialPlanet Google how Film goes to center and will BE secured.
It is easier to load a 120 film in a steel tank !
Maybe
Good tip re using a short strip of negatives to aid in threading the film, but I don’t remove all the backing paper first. I only separate the beginning of the film from the paper. The paper falls away naturally as you wind and therefore you minimise handling the film.
Thanks for your comment and kind words.
The template idea is great. I quickly stopped using my paterson reel for 120 film after getting my hands on a couple of AP reels. They fit the paterson tank just the same but the extra guides make loading 120 and indeed 35mm film a lot easier. AP Reels are cheap as well, I always recommend them for 120 film instead of paterson reels.
Good to know, Mark!
Where can someone find an AP reel?
Really great advisory, can't wait to get the rolleis back from service (after 50 years for the first time), unfortunately i had to get rid of fathers darkroom, so i have to start again.
Go for it!
Brilliant video. I have been shooting and developing medium format for about 3 years. Must have processed at least 50-60 rolls, yet I have learned so much from your video (I could never figure out what to do with the sticky tape at the end of the roll). Thanks so much!
You're very welcome and thanks for your comment!
Some useful tips. I make loading the film onto the reel much easier by using Kaiser reels which have "wings" making it much easier to get the film started.
I have one of those reels. Yes, the wings make it easier to load, for sure.
Good tips. I have ditched the Paterson film reels and replaced with the Arista Premium Reels, they make a world of a difference.
Thank you for sharing 😊
Cheers, Miranda!
ive lost so much sweat without this simple method
Nice tips, very useful. I put a small piece of scotch tape on the left hand side directly under the left tab. That way in the changing bag I can immediately locate the left tab, and quickly line up the right tab guide. It’s been working but I like the old piece of film trick. Thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks for the tips boss
A pleasure
Thank you so much for your the video! ✌️
Best video on UA-cam!!! Saved me a trip back to the store to return 😂😂
That's good news! Glad you liked it, alquan.
I notice in this video there are no ball bearings to pull the film onto the reel, have you removed them and if so why, thanks
Hi Martin. Yes, I've always recommended removing the bearings. Here's my website page about it:
www.pictorialplanet.com/beginner_photography/beginner_photography/easy_reel_loading.html
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, I had no trouble loading most films with the bearings until I tried 127 film and that was a pain in the backside to get it over the bearings, it was a thin film Shanghi GP3 so don't know why it was so , will try this method now, thanks
Easiest way is to replace the reels with
Omega Universal Adjustable Multi-format Reel (35/220) which I ordered from BHPhoto. They fit perfectly and have a lip to guide 35mm and 120 film onto the reels, Works perfectly and SO much less frustration. I have 4 of them.
Good tip!
Brilliant! Thanks!
So many INCREDiBLE tips in this one video. I'm gobsmacked. This is clearly years of experience and tricks generously shared for everyone. Thank you!!!
What a kind comment! Thank you, d.
@@PictorialPlanet You are so welcome!! I just got into my first medium format system, and this is the first tutorial that makes me feel confident enough to do it 😅 I'll definitely be using your example if anyone asks me how to start as well. So, thank you from the community!!
Very helpful. Thanks
Muy buen video, justo estaba vierndo como simplificar esto. Fui muy util. Muchas gracias, voy a probar. Ricardo desde Argentina.
🙏
Always good advice 👍
Excellent tips...especially the twizzle stick tip! Thank you kindly.
Thank you, John!
RAF?
I find this a doddle on some films and a pain on others, my record so far is 2 minutes, my longest time 10 minutes 😂 so far i’ve only developed 16 films
It'll get easier as those fingers get muscle memory. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the insightful and methodical video walking through the process! Just loaded my first roll of 120 without issue. Going to go develop it as soon as my chemicals are warmed up!
Congrats!
This is brilliant I love you thank you.
Even though this installment is a year old, as a recent subscriber I wasn't able to see it till now. I've been using stainless steel tanks with Hewes reels for years. However for developing four or five rolls of 120 at a time I decided to try the Peterson 2.5 liter tank. I was simply having too much trouble loading the reels, though, and put off starting to use them. Then I saw this video. Genius! This trick makes loading the reels so much easier. I recently returned from a 23 day cruise through the Caribbean and the Panama Canal and back and I had twenty five rolls of 120 film to develop. So I had five development sessions as opposed to the thirteen I would have needed for my two reel stainless tanks. This video helped to make that task so much easier. Thank you!
Yay! That's what I like to hear!
Woooooooow 🤯 great tip thanks!
In fact, I had an experience with a 35mm film, after trying to insert the film into the screw of the Patterson tank, under a lot of blankets, sweat and anxiety on a summer day, because I do not have a black bag, but I succeeded in the end and was able to get the film stuck to the screw threads, and I also succeeded From repeating the ball with four films, but I did not try with the 120 mm film. The question here is whether there are holes in the film until it is attached to the teeth, or is that not a condition? I am waiting for an answer from the experts, thank you.
Well done!
Does leaving the tape on the film as you displayed, not cause any reactions or issues during developing with the chemicals?
Thanks
Hi Monte, none at all.
Hello! I'm not an expert by any means. How did you manage to slide the template out so easily? With my Paterson reel, once the film is in and through the ball bearings, it's hard for it to back out.
I've removed the ball bearings. I wrote about it here on my website: www.pictorialplanet.com/beginner_photography/beginner_photography/easy_reel_loading.html
thank you very much!
John, the film template idea is genius...another brilliantly informative video. Thank you.
Cheers Charles!
@@PictorialPlanet and it works a treat...I’ve just loaded a film in record time with no creases after years of struggling!
Awesome!
Great tips, do you ever load 2 rolls at the same time if so how do you know when first roll is fully loaded.
Thanks.
I don't.
Thank you so much!!!
Excelente tutorial, Gracias, Saludos desde Colombia.
Thank you!
recently got into developing film due to labs shutting down and running out of chemicals.
This tip helped me out tremendously never thought about this one!
Good stuff Liam! Stick with us here and you'll never go back to those labs.
I don't entirely agree, the developer will get in thru the top and bottom, no need to worry about wich direction the film is loaded 🤷 but everything else is valid 🤘
I heard from someone to take the tape off because it will interact with the chemistry and throw it off...Dont know if its true but just asking if it makes a difference?
Hi Brendan. I've never, in 50 years, taken the tape off and it's never caused any reaction. Just fold it over and stick it to the other side of the film.
With the end of the paper folded over, I like to make a 1/2 inch cut in the end of the sealing strip so it's easy to tear open in the changing bag.
Good tip, Bob!
Does the back of the film not get smudged by your fingers when rolling it up?
No. Clean hands are essential.
Thanks for this excellent tip!
Cheers from France, jeqn
Hello France!
You have to wet it?!?! That explains why mine never stuck!
ha!
Hello. Wow. So we basically can’t use the plastic reels with a steel tank?
Nope, they won't fit. Buy a Paterson universal tank.
I stick my little finger into the roll as I’m twisting the spool and spooling it in it,makes it easier
You know, I think I do that sometimes too!
Great video
thank yoiu
thanks
you're a natural teacher. thank you for the tutorial !!
Cheers, Merima!
Some brilliant tips there. Thanks
Thank, Ian!
brilliant !!
what an excellent video, thank you sir
Cheers 🍻
Old timey darkroom guy here. Strated loading 120 reels (620 actually) in the 1950's. On a 3 month 5000 mile trip and no room to bring my 4 reel SS tanks and reels for 120. I just bought the Patterson tank while traveling so I can develop rolls so I can be sure I don't have an exposure failure. In the dark my fingers don't have to think about the degree of cupping and the amount of tension on the film as my other hand rotates the reel. It just happens - sorta like a knee jerk when the Doc taps your knee. I am not convinced at this moment the Paterson reel is the answer but I will be souping the first rolls tomorrow. We shall see.
How did the development go using Paterson reels?
Development went fine. This was a total experiment, not just the Patterson reel. The film expired in 2006 (Tri-X 320) The developer is one I have never used (Diafine) and does not need temperature control or careful timing. The film was curled so tight after 18 years it was wrestling with an octopus to get it on the reel. I took shots at box speed, pushed 1 stop and pushed 2 stops. For the most part the 1 stop push negatives look the best, but all three are printable, but the box speed are dense and will need a bit of expertise to coax a good print.. I have to say the Patterson 120 reel seems far more difficult to load than the typical stainless reel. I have a fresh Tri-X 400 in the camera now (C330 TLR) and we shall see how well it loads.
I never would have thought. I’ve always removed the tape thinking it might be bad for the chemistry. And never removed the paper first. So then I’m always struggling to tear it off with the film mostly in the reel at the end. AND I can see how the tape would make it a tad stiffer, therefore easier to start. Brilliant! Thanks!!
This is probably the most complicated way I've seen but then, I've never had much trouble getting 120 film onto a spool.
Read the comments. Many people struggle with loading 120 and this has been helpful. Compassion is a virtue.
@@PictorialPlanet Well, as I said, it hasn’t been a problem for me but it doesn’t mean it isn’t a problem for others. I just thought it was very complicated. If someone gets something out of it I’m not going to complain.
7:50 the turning with a twizzle stick is this a colour neg step? For BW is the standard agitation by moving gently around the same as with 35mm?
🔄
You can use the twizzle stick for black and white.
@@PictorialPlanet is that instead of agitating by inverting the Patterson tank?
@flowermaze___ yes, ua-cam.com/video/Ud-Aw6U7KH4/v-deo.htmlsi=dBsm2ktHweHK8Tv5
Excellent tutorial, and just to confirm - is it OK to touch the undeveloped film? Won't it leave finger prints or smudges?
Wash your hands with dish wash soap. It takes the oil from your skin and means you won't leave residue. Never had a problem.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, I've been sending my films to be developed for years, time to do it myself!
if reusing chemicals like c41 will the tape contaminate the developer ?
The tape has no effect.
@@PictorialPlanet thank you for your response that's awesome information
Thank you, this a verry good tip !
I always hassle with 120 film, it got much better since I use a spool with lage lips.
I've loaded dozens of 120 reels and never thought of removing all the paper first. Thanks for the tip. I'll try that the next time.
This was a timely one John. I usually use a durst to LPL tank with stainless steel reels but decided to use the Paterson tank for a change following the tip about the lid. It took me an age to get the film on the reel. I will definitely be trying this out next time.
one interesting fix for this, do like the LF guys do loading the sheet holders, put thumb and index finger on the entrance barbs and feed towards your other hand, should give a tactile sense if the film has gone in.
Brilliant! That loading tip is by far the best I've seen. One less hurdle to jump. Thank you sir.
this tutorial was amazing!
and your tone and voice is so, honestly excited about teaching - it's amazing!
Great tips!! Thanks.
Glad it was useful!
No, Patterson's spool construction is for 120 (35 is fine!) film simply idiotic! Your suggestion is the best one can do! Here's why: the little metal ball("bearings") about 15mm after "rail-opening" block the passage of the correctly positioned film! If one "rips the film through that, the tension of the film pushes it out of the rail after almost every movement! I have pretty good fine motor skills! (play Cello) I got 35mm film without problems into the spool! But 120 kicked itself out of the rail even at the last 5 cm through it's tension! My question: Besides checking other systems (after a bit of googling I got the impression that for 120 film Patterson spooks are the worst) I wonder if someone had found a way to do it without spools. Do you know about something like that?
Keep playing that Cello. Beautiful instrument!
the film has to glide smoothly this does work fine only :
- With very dry spools (the plastic is hydroscopic), I heat the spools in the sun or on a radiator some hours before use
- Why clean and free moving balls, I clean and check them with an absorbing cardboard I move back and forth in the slot before use
@@jean-claudemuller3199 Thanks for your kind response! The spools had been used only one time and were absolutely clean! A film lab confirmed to me similar complaints from other customers. But I have purchased Kaiser and Jobo spools. Jobo worked without any issue. Kaiser I still have to test.
Great tip! Thank you!
Cheers Sile!
Amazing tip thank you !
Cheers, Vincent
Excellent video. Thanks for this! 😊
This inspired tip will be invaluable when I finally work up the nerve to start shooting x
Why have I never realised to use the tape end to load first? Great tip and well explained. Thank you.
great tip, one other is to cut some offcuts of developing paper, and use it, rather like the tongue tool to de-spool the 35 mm film (to get the leader out); just use the tape that you folded on the film, stick it to the "tongue" of the paper, and pull on it, like the demo, and make sure the tape is removed afterwards. this is simmilar in a way to using a "starting chord" on a mower, or outboard engine for the dinghy, but to pull the film through.
Thank you! Very handy!
Cheers
The very best tip I've seen so far. Thank you so much.
Just tried your film guiding trick. Worked like a charm in the dark!
...my Paterson Universal Tank accepts two 35mm reels or a single 120/220 reel. Is it possible to successfully load 2 x 120 film on to the same 120/220 reel? I know the reel happily accepts 1 x 220 film (if you can find it), but can't help thinking the total length of 2 x 120 film just might exceed the available space on the reel. Anybody with real-world experience of my query? Thanks.
I have not done this but I do believe that you can get two 120 films on one reel. I'd personally rather use a double reel tank.
@@PictorialPlanet ...thanks for the speedy response. I was afraid you might suggest a bigger tank. Thanks all the same.
@@PictorialPlanet ...just found out 2 x120 on a single Paterson reel is feasible. This from another platform:
"It's simple: Use the piece of tape from the first roll to attach the second film. If you line them up carefully, both films will enter without a hitch. If not, just re-roll the second film and develop it later - don't try to force it in! This works fine for me 9 times out of 10".
All I need now is a couple of unwanted 120 film rolls for practice runs.
Go for it. Thanks for the interesting comment!
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
I couldn’t get the film to load cause of that tape you mentioned to keep on and so I had to cut it off. The second roll I did had a bit more tape on it cause of course it wasn’t a straight cut in the dark. I believe the adhesive chemicals turned my developing fluid bright green! You failed to mention that unless it didn’t happen to you. So now I’m wondering if the 500ml used to develop the roll is now useless or what. Any info? Thanks!
Is this your first time developing 120 film?
@@PictorialPlanet I googled my situation and apparently it’s normal. Well, it was my third roll of 120 developed but ninth overall
@framesngrains2933 your googling is correct. The colour doesn't come from the glue but the film because 120 film often has an anti-halation layer and the chemical in that layer comes out. The glue does no harm and doesn't affect development or the film at all - well, it hasn't in the last 50 years I've even doing it.
@@PictorialPlanet now I’m at ease 🤣 thanks for the responses!
Great tips, I've so far used my AP tank (which is really easy to use as the spiral has guide tabs for the film, kind of like your tip of using a negative as a guide but these are molded into the spiral) as I've been using reusable developer (Cinestill Df96) so the amount I need to fill the tank does not really matter. But now I'm moving to Pyrocat HD which is a one shot developer so the less I can use the cheaper it gets.
I have a small Russian 120 only tank which only needs something like 300 ml of chemistry, half the amount I need for the AP one, but I have not been able to get film on the spiral because no matter what I do the end of the film comes out of the groove after I get some of it In. I think this is partly because I use Fomapan film which is slightly thinner than for example Ilford and partly because of the sloppy tolerances and build quality of the Russian tank.
So next time I'll definitely try the tape trick, maybe it will make the end of the film stiff enough to stay In the groove all the way. So thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, the tape should help stiffen the end of the thinner film. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Unfortunately even the tape trick didn't work with this reel, it's simply too roughly made. No matter what I did I was not able to get more than maybe half of the film (still a lot more than without the tape) on the reel before it got stuck and wouldn't go further. Fortunately I anticipated that and had my trusty AP tank also in the changing bag so I loaded the film into that instead.
The reel might work for a stiffer film but for Fomapan it's a no go.
Dang that film's so thin!
@@PictorialPlanet Yes it is. and needs to be exposed at 100 or 150 to get decent density so the ISO is off too. I think I'll stick to Ilford in 35mm and 120 after I get through my current stock of Fomapan, much less hassle and not that much more expensive.
Fortunately the Foma 4x5 seems to be okay once I got the exposure figured out, at less than half the price of HP5 I think I'll keep using it at least for the bulk of my 4x5 shooting.
Using old negs for a template to start the film in the reel - GREAT!!!! THANKS!!!!
You got it, Steve!
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I destroyed two rolls of 120 today, I'm more used to 35mm. I shall try again.....
We've all been there :) Practice makes perfect 👌
5:00 thanks so much for this
👍
I just had to comment. I’ve watched several UA-cam tutorials about this, and no one else has come even close to explaining it as well as you have. They all miss bits out, assuming that people know a certain amount about developing, eg terms, etc. Thank you so much for this video, I now feel much more confident for when my developing tank arrives. Liked and subscribed 🙏
Thanks!
You’re a legend mate. Great tip. Subbed.
brilliant tutorial. I've developed several 120 mm rolls since I watched this. Thanks!!
Good news!
Oh how helpful! Thank you! So much great information, so many helpful tips! Thank you! I just got my first Rollei, can't wait to develop it myself, it will save a fortune!
Yes, home development will really open up possibilities.