Thank you for posting - My tips moving forward would be to take off the front left from the start, then you can use a swivel 12mm socket to remove the bracket from the block. This also gives you access to the 2 10mm bolts holding the harness then you can do everything else from up top! 203,000 miles / My 2006 alternator lasted until 178,000
Wish I had read the comment section first -That's exactly what I came here to post! Definitely thanks to the original poster, three of us were standing in the rain today changing this out in a parking lot - all three of us mechanics or former mechanics - laughing our ass off as we were getting spanked by that 12 mm!! 😅😅😅
Thanks for posting this - you are right that bolt is a pain in the ass! The two 10 mm harness bolts are accessible with stock ride height if you turn the wheel left full lock, but the rear 12 mm is definitely easiest to get off from the block and pull the whole damn thing out with the alternator, stock ride height best off to take the tire or jack the body up as the video shows - if you have a two or three inch lift the brake line gets in your way so just get the suspension to full droop with a jack or just yank the tire - honestly having done this taking the tire is the easiest route!
If you just remove your front tire you won't jack your car up in the very spot every single mechanic tells you not to do. I am just a mechanics daughter and i cringed when you said that. The body of your vehicle is not supposed to be jacked up away from the chassis
He screwed that part up. He believes that lifting the truck from the body gives a different result from lifting at the frame (it doesn't) It just increases the chance of sheet metal damage.
@@GregMallory1 Yeah, for sure. On my unibody vehicles I have always made a wood spacer with a slot down the center to cradle the pinch weld and help spread the load out more when using a floor jack. For body on frame vehicles (what God intended) I use a hockey puck on the floor jack saddle. For the alternator swap I was able to get to this rear hidden bolt from above using a rotator style ratchet, it's not all that hard to get to, definitely not fun though.
Glad to know I'm not the only shade tree looking for tips that cringed when he said that. I just can't seem to get my plug to release from the back of alternator
Can't wait to install my mean green alternator. Spent like $500 on her. Supposed to push 180w at idle. That's more than the peak running a stock setup!
Thank you for posting - My tips moving forward would be to take off the front left from the start, then you can use a swivel 12mm socket to remove the bracket from the block.
This also gives you access to the 2 10mm bolts holding the harness then you can do everything else from up top! 203,000 miles / My 2006 alternator lasted until 178,000
Wish I had read the comment section first -That's exactly what I came here to post! Definitely thanks to the original poster, three of us were standing in the rain today changing this out in a parking lot - all three of us mechanics or former mechanics - laughing our ass off as we were getting spanked by that 12 mm!! 😅😅😅
Thanks for posting this - you are right that bolt is a pain in the ass! The two 10 mm harness bolts are accessible with stock ride height if you turn the wheel left full lock, but the rear 12 mm is definitely easiest to get off from the block and pull the whole damn thing out with the alternator, stock ride height best off to take the tire or jack the body up as the video shows - if you have a two or three inch lift the brake line gets in your way so just get the suspension to full droop with a jack or just yank the tire - honestly having done this taking the tire is the easiest route!
Thank you for letting us know about that bracer way in the bottom back. U r the man!!!
Terrible spot for the Jack. Just remove your front driver tire and you have access to the bolt
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks man couldn't figure it out either.
Thanks. This video really helped.
4runner is body on frame. You can lift it by frame and suspension will hang
The car jacks not on the corrct spot. Youre going to damage the kicker pannels
Thanks for the video. I could not find the hidden bolt. I was able to get it out with the same technique you used. Did you put the bolt back in?
That jack is in a terrible spot bro
If you just remove your front tire you won't jack your car up in the very spot every single mechanic tells you not to do. I am just a mechanics daughter and i cringed when you said that. The body of your vehicle is not supposed to be jacked up away from the chassis
Is the jack on the body??
He screwed that part up. He believes that lifting the truck from the body gives a different result from lifting at the frame (it doesn't) It just increases the chance of sheet metal damage.
@@GregMallory1 Yeah, for sure. On my unibody vehicles I have always made a wood spacer with a slot down the center to cradle the pinch weld and help spread the load out more when using a floor jack. For body on frame vehicles (what God intended) I use a hockey puck on the floor jack saddle. For the alternator swap I was able to get to this rear hidden bolt from above using a rotator style ratchet, it's not all that hard to get to, definitely not fun though.
@@GregMallory1 yeah i was like WTF is he doing? lol
Glad to know I'm not the only shade tree looking for tips that cringed when he said that. I just can't seem to get my plug to release from the back of alternator
you had to replace the alternator after only 4 years?
Mine just died but it is a 2010 with 102k miles. Still not common at this age/mileage though.
Can't wait to install my mean green alternator. Spent like $500 on her. Supposed to push 180w at idle. That's more than the peak running a stock setup!
I keep holding back cause I'm wanting to do the "big 3" at the same time.