Getting Dressed in the 18th Century - Chemise Gown (1780s)
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2021
- A woman gets dressed in an 18th Century 'Chemise a la Reine' style gown.
Visit this website to learn about and support a project to research and recreate muslin fabrics: bengalmuslin.com/
Cast:
Woman - Kate Baker-Loven
Maid - Pauline Loven
Director: Nicole Loven
Costumier: Pauline Loven
Hair: Anita Cudbertson
Voice-over: Nicole Loven
Music: Una Nueva Alba - Patrick Ussher
This video, like all Crow’s Eye Productions’ works, is protected by copyright under the UK Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 and internationally under the Berne Copyright Convention. It may not be reproduced or adapted, in whole or in part, without the written permission of Crow’s Eye Productions. - Фільми й анімація
I read an article recently about how Indian historians are working with places that used to make Dhaka muslin to bring it back! The plant is not extinct, it was found wild and is being grown again but it's still very rare. The knowledge used to make the muslin has pretty much not survived, but they're trying to recreate it. Super cool fashion history.
From Dhaka, it was not the plant but the actual technique of making the muslin that was destroyed. But yes, researchers are trying to replicate it
The hands of the muslin cloth artisans of Dhaka were cut off during the British colonial period. Since then, muslin has disappeared from Dhaka.
@@raaz7255That’s a lie.
@@raaz7255who told you that?
That chemise gown style of dress could very easily work with today's fashion trends. And those pink ribbons and stockings! Cue lots of yearnful sighing. Also, a big *THANK YOU* for mentioning the _real_ purpose of the stays - to support the bust, not restrict the waist like the movies suggest!
I'd recommend Bernadette Banner's modern chemise dress video!
You can find similar stockings at American Duchess.
I made a slightly modernized version based on a pattern by Morgan Donner. It makes a wonderful summer dress (I made it knee length in the front and paired it with gladiator sandles)
It makes me so happy to find people already mentioning the purpose of stays and Bernadette and Morgan in the same conversation. 🥰
Nothing gives us more comfort in difficult times than an outfit that starts with tights sewn up at the top with a clock pattern and tied up with a silk ribbon.
Great video, I really enjoyed it! Something worth mentioning about Dhaka muslin - there's now a project called Bengal Muslin that aims to recreate the plant ("phuti karpas") as they managed to DNA sequence preserved leaves in the Kew Royal Botanical Gardens. Dhaka muslin had a thread count of 800 to 1200, and their project has currently achieved a 400 thread count muslin. The BBC actually did an article on it earlier this year called "The ancient fabric that no one knows how to make
", it's a really fascinating read into the history of Dhaka muslin and the attempts to recreate it!
You know I live in Dhaka. I can tell you they managed to successfully recreate the Dhakai muslin but it's too costly yet; more research will be done to make it available to us people.
Your comment made me look up the BBC article and I am fascinated! I really hope they will be able to recreate it (and that I will someday own a garment made of this fabric). The British Empire has indeed commited many crimes in the subcontinent of India ...
okay but i can't believe the whole plant became extinct! like, look at how gorgeous the dress is! it pains me that we may never be able to gain access to something so beautiful as that ever again 😭
The ancient Romans had access to a plant they called Silphium that was used as both aphrodisiac and birth control. It was in such high demand it's believed to have been harvested to the point of extinction.
@@Rob-vy6zx The cotton process plant are gone, the sad part is that the whole village who could make this fabric where gone, but this particular quality of Indian cotton has a lot loger and stronger fibers compared to regular industrial growth cotton species, the cotton plant species they used does still exist and where still in the 1950-60s used for making extremly durable army cloathing in Europe (my father had a army kaki skirt made from indian cotton and he wore it for more than 30 years in the farm and forest work, a normal good quality modern cotton skirt only last like 2 year...) however those armyskirts where made from regular processed fabric, not this thin, cobwed like fabric, but in Siam, and i think also other areas of south east Asia they hawe sone type of plant silc made from lotus flower roots, but that is a lot, lot easyer to make and still in production, however it is not near as durable as normal silc and not even close to the strenght of indian long fibre cotton.
(The Roman Silphium was used as a medicament and food spice, it did remind of the Levisticum family if i am not totaly wrong, so possibly it was a local subspecies, as You siad, sadly the last ones known to man accidentaly ended up as goatfood because of a roman farmer... )
What’s really horrifying about this whole thing is that in order to force India to stop competing with English textile markets, the artisans who had been creating this specialized muslin for generations, saw their looms destroyed and their fingers cut off by the British so that they couldn’t teach how to weave this fabric to new generations. This history should not be glossed over or forgotten.
Historical sewist, Cathy Hay, Goes into depth about this on her channel in the videos about the reconstruction of the Peacock dress.
@@brigidscaldron I read that the "cutting off fingers/thumbs" story might be untrue and might have been started by a mistranslation.
@Kurious. I think it would work, but the texture will look too glossy.
I live in Florida where it is ridiculously hot and humid for 9 months of the year. This is one of the few dresses I’ve seen on this channel that I think I could wear here without passing out from the heat! ❤️
Light cotton, silk and linen would be cooler in hot weather. Light 💯 rayon would work also. I live in the southern US also.
Finally, I've been waiting so long for another dress up video!
Ya i subscribed the channel because i love those dress videos
Перевод можно??
The Return of the King. A king with BEAUTIFUL pink stockings I'm obssessed with them.
They look like the ones on the American duchess website
Aubrey Ackermann same with the shoe buckles! they are the “Dauphine” model
I like that in addition to showing us this beautiful dress from history, you’ve paired it with the reality that its fabric also brought the exploitation of colonized people.
...and made the fall of Marie Antoinette faster, because she ruined the silk production in France.
@@RoSario-vb8ge No she did not.
@@brennerc180 The popularization of the "chemise à la Reine" had an effect on the domestic consumption of silk but let's not forget that cotton (imported from India) never replaced silk in the field of fashion, mousseline even at its peak of popularity during the Ancien régime was still considered an informal fabric, (despite its cost) and therefore strictly restricted to an interior or domestic use, (except in the last decade of the century, 1790-) among the materials used for the manufacture of this type of "domestic" attire, cotton was already a fabric widely used since the middle of the century, therefore the material of the "chemise a la Reine" wasn't all that new, only its revolutionary look was.
Most of the costumes used for public use continued to be made of silk, while in the french Court virtually everything was made of silk and continued to be so not forgetting that until the last years of the monarchy Marie Antoinette continued to order large quantities of woven silk to replace the wallcovering of her apartments and the newly purchased chateau of Saint-Cloud. along with its new furniture, most of them covered in either woven or embroidered in silk.
So was she guilty of ruining the silk industry? she clearly was not. It's like blaming her for the fall out of fashion of the perfectly manicured parterres "a la française" and replacement for the new Ango-Chinoise Jardins.
In the mid-1780s, the queen was blamed for making English mousseline fashionable, more as an offense to something so very French as the silk industry was more than for the economic perjury caused to it, but then... she was the scapegoat on the part of society.
The new fashions that she undoubtedly helped to popularize had an effect on the sale of silk, yes. But if anyone ruined the silk industry at the end of the 18th century, it was the arrival of the Revolution and the consequent exile of most of the silk-clients: The Aristocrats.
Sorry for the long reply, I'm clearly an Ancien Regimen freak lol.
as most things today 🤷🏻♀️
Yeah, that’s always the necessary footnote: none of these interesting and beautiful gowns would exist without exploitation of humans in European colonies and the US. Both people and the environment. As is the way it sadly goes in much of history. European empires and American settler colonialism and neoimperialism led to the destruction of so much habitat, on top of and directly in connection with cultural destruction. Bison are perfect example of the intersection.
The French relied so heavily on Haiti (not for textiles, though) that the Haitian Revolution forced France to sell its Louisiana territory to pay for their attempts to squash the revolution. And then France made the Haitians, as a new independent nation, pay them back for lost revenue due to the abolition of slavery! The absurdity of it would be funny if it didn’t bankrupt Haiti and wasn’t the biggest reason why Haiti still struggles today economically.
The inhuman SCREECH that came out of me when I saw that Crows Eye posted another Getting dressed in video is between me, my phone, and the small dog in my lap that I spooked....
This is a mood ✨
Literally me
Oh boy I can only imagine XD
The toile de jouy detail is so chic (and fashionable in 2021!)
Could we get an Edwardian Era video? And some more gentlemen's clothing too. I've noticed that when it comes to historical clothes it's mostly focused on the women, in my experience.
A Regency Corinthian.
Yes, I’d also like to see some more working class fashion as well as more men’s wear.
Checkout Priorattire and her videos
Yaas! The men need some historical clothing vids!
@[Closed] lol,me to
"The purpose of stays was to support the bust more than reduce the waist" SAY IT AGAIN FOR THE PEOPLE IN THE BACK
Welcome back!! I was sad to see your absence but it was worth it for safety reasons. I can't wait for more videos, and hopefully an Italian Renaissance look!!
The channel Priorattire has a dressing up video about the Italian Renaissance.
@@emmacarter6033 yes, I love it too!! It's my favorite period and I love to see different interpretations from different channels.
I watched this woman put on 50 different articles of clothing after deciding I was too lazy to wear pants today. We've come a long way, baby.
A devolution.
I absolutely adore this era’s style of dress!
me too! i'm so thankful for the internet and youtube so that we can access videos like this.
Welcome back! You've been missed! Also obviously this outfit is stunning
The return of the queen of historical fashion. Wellcome back.
I would love to see pride and prejudice set in 1780s with everyone wearing chemise a la reine with different color sash and the older people wearing robe a la anglaise
I miss these videos!
The OG cottagecore, Marie Antoinette is still a fashion icon, damm, her power.
Thank you for coming back! The muslin story is very sad.
The fabric on that bum roll!!!!!!
Also anyone else looked at the maids garments? No just me. I'll be over here in the corner fangirling over the green petticoat and apron with a bib.
I always wanted a modern version of that gown,so beautiful!
It shouldn't be difficult using muslin and double gauze cotton. A loose v-neck dress with full sleeves is currently trendy, so finding a basic pattern should be easy enough. Probably one with a neck frill too. Bias binding to make drawstring channels. The skirt, and petticoats, can be flounced for fullness lower down. Sashes need to be 2 to 2.5x the length of the waist. Fitted camisole and French knickers if you don't want the corset.
@@michellebyrom6551 Thank you for the reply!💕
One day the dhaka muslin will return .. and experts are trying so hard .. I'm from Bangladesh and dhaka muslin is our pride
I remember reading somewhere that the process of making Dhaka muslim is being recreated and that, although the original plant might be extinct, the results obtained so far are really close to the original Dhaka muslim… Do you know if this is true? I got so emotional reading about it… It sure is an amazing thing to be proud of. I’m rooting for it to work and for the tradition to be revived. ❤️
they said it from India! That's pathetic! I feel offended as a Bangladeshi because of their wrong info!
You r right bro 🤩🤩
@@minkypramanik4396 they were referring to Indian subcontinent back in 17th /18th century
@@dua-e-zehra647 we're aware of that dear. still they should at least mention it as from Bengal. even in that time there was no "country" called india! the subcontinent had lots of countries or kingdoms & mainly Europeans used to call brown & dark brown skinned people as indians in many parts of the world, not only south asia (the subcontinent). then why are they creating more confusion with the word "india" still now here & there? also mentioning someones' asset & pride as anothers'?? this is not fair.
Hello! I was just wondering if the Dhaka Muslin originated in Dhaka which is the capital of Bangladesh? I know that it was also the place where artisans made lawn cotton fabric as well before the British stole all the looms to take back to England.
They gave wrong info. Muslin is the pride of Bangladesh (the then Bengal area). It is wrong to mention it as it's from india!!
I'm so happy to se y'all back with another video! I love that you explain all the reasons behind the different styles. You can really appreciate these beautiful dresses a lot more. I love seeing the outfits blend from one fashion to another throughout the years. This gown in particular is a gorgeous style. Hope to see more productions soon!
The is my favourite era and style of historical dress. I love the high collars, ribbons, white sleeves, and big hats
18th century fashion is just so beautiful, it is one of my favorites in history 😊😊
Shay is that you?
This outfit is so beautiful! 😍
Such a beautiful fabric it's a pity it's extinct thanks for a beautiful video
Omg the pink stockings are so pretty!
OMG the hip pad design matches the maid's neck scarf!
Hi CrowsEye. I really missed your videos. Thank you and good to see more of your brilliant and delightful videos again....
Chemise a la Rein 😍
So excited to see you are able to film again! Amazing work as always ❤
I have been waiting for this for a long time! Thank you!
the purpose of corset and stays has literally never been to restrict the waist, not just the 18th century. if they wanted a smaller looking waist, they padded out. very few people ever tight-laced to achieve the desired figure. this is basic fashion history
That gown would be an amazing wedding dress now
Yeah! You are back producing your wonderful uplifting, educational, inspiring videos. Your group does not just show us your gorgeous creations but in a way that fully shows your love for this special work. You bring a lot of happiness into these still difficult times.
A perfect return to the Getting Dressed series!
Welcome back , I’ve been waiting so long 💞💞💞💞
So glad to see that you're finally back!!
The video is, as always, the perfect measure of entertaining, informative and soothing.
Tremendously beauuuuuutiful! I just love this channel! The craftsmanship of the gown to the entire video production is just stellar.
Omg welcome back! Looking forward for the next great video
I was wondering about Crow's Eye just yesterday! Great to finally see another video.
Oh yay !!!! I'm glad you're back Liv 💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙♥💕💛💓❤💙
So aesthetically pleasing and simply gorgeous!
Yay!! I missed these so much!! 🤩🤩
I have missed these videos! ❤ So very happy to see a new one!!
Welcome back! So wonderful to see you again! 💝
Wow that is absolutely wonderful! The delicate nature of the gown how it flows is just beautiful! I'm so happy you did another video! Here's a thought: could you possibly do a video about Victorian mourning wear for women in the future? Alot of people I think would be very happy to see that. I personally love everything and anything to do with Victorian mourning. Keep up the beautiful work! ♡♡
I have missed these videos so much! So happy you're back!!🥰
Finally got to see a dress-up video after so long!! So excited!!
So glad to see that you are able to do videos again.
I'm so glad to see a new video. I missed these.
A Walk With Me video in this dress would be beautiful!
I cannot properly express how much I want one of these.
Been waiting all Covid quarantine for this! ❤️ Thank you, CEP!!!
thank you for mentioning colonization! i think it would be cool to see that brought up more often. colonization and slavery and other forms of oppression are unfortunately directly connected to european and american fashion history, so it’s not something that should be ignored. in this case talking about colonization of india - something so horrific and still relevant but which we don’t like to talk about.
Y'all just love wallowing in your endless guilt and public self flagellation? Its been well over a hundred years. Move on and grow up you gloom mongers.
Thank you.
Glad you are posting again
This was so calming to watch!
A new video, at last! Thank you for the great work 😘
been waiting for a new vid forever !
Good to see you back! The outfit is so pretty!
Many congratulations on an absolutely exquisite video 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
That was a joy to watch! ☺️
What a wonderful video! So happy to see a new production!
I am so happy to see a new video on this channel. I had been worried that the channel had been discontinued.
Yay omg i am so happy this made my day. Thank you!!!!
Good to listen and watch 😊 Thank you for mentioning as well the sad end of muslin fabric.
Looking so pretty 😍💕
On top of loving history and old fashion, I find these videos incredibly calming
Beautiful dress!
So happy to see more videos!!
Absolutely beautiful
CrowsEyeProduction - forever the best!
Great to see you back
You're back!!! I've missed you guys!
Lovely and I liked the documentary information on muslin.
Yay! They're finally back!
So happy for your triumphant return!
Oh my god you guys are back I missed you so much!
I have just discovered your channel and subscribed immediately. I am so looking forward to watching all of your videos. What a treat!
So many layers!
I would totally wear this today, it's very cute.
Welcome back. A lovely video.
This makes me want to dress up like that
I love these videos. Thank you.
Yes! And I really enjoyed the addition of having information about Daka Muslin because it's so rarely talked about and that makes me sad
So pretty!!
Finally, you are back, hope you are doing well, great video, thanks!
I absolutely adore the Chemise a la Reine and theyre so fragile and delicate that there are only a few surviving extant examples of this dress. I have made a “similar” Chemise a la Reine but it was shorter and made of spandex in a cut similar to a Robe a l’anglaise minus a point in front and it was a bit structured with boning and a hook and bar closure in the back. I might make a gown like that again but longer and made of a lighter weight stretch fabric because I dont know how the patterning of the Chemise dress and all that gathering the works on my figure as opposed to streamlined structured Chemise a la Reine which helps keep my body looking slim.
On Instagram, there is a shop called @Ann.tique and he has made a perfect one you can buy. I bought one myself. It’s about $100 but so worth it
@@hollyfullerton4421 I think making one is better for me. I feel like making my clothes is better than buying them. Also clothing from anywhere else just doesnt fit me as nicely as ones I make myself and its more affordable too! The scraps dont get wasted since theyre used as stuffing for my bum pads and hip pads for these styles of gowns.
another informative and stylish production, thanks.
I found out about the Dhaka Muslim by accident a few months ago and you just reminded me how heartbroken I was at the brutal extinction of an art form.
I read so many wonderful things about the tradition of the Dhaka muslim. About how you could wear many layers and it’d still look like it was a single see-through one, from how soft and delicate and light the material was.
They’re trying to bring back the traditional cycle of production, even though the original plant is now extinct. They said themselves they know they cannot recreate the original Dhaka muslim, but they want to be able to make a new kind of Dhaka muslim that follows as much of the original process as possible with the records they have, and with the plants available.
Thank you so much for putting this piece of history into the video. ❤️ This is something that shouldn’t be forgotten. The amazingly talented Indian spinners and weavers should be remembered.
I always learn so much from these videos
YOU’RE BACK 😭🙌🏻💕
Amazing as always ❤️
Enchanting, as always!
Absolutely gorgeous
The dress is lovely🥰🌸