Project 49 - Hoca Performance Variator Tests - 49cc 2T Scooter CVT Modifications
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- A group of tests showing how the Hoca performance variator performs and how it can be setup to achieve different results. This video illustrates the difference in a properly setup variator and one that is simply swapped on and tuned with roller or slider weights only.
For $50, this a a good modification IMO, especially if you plan to do farther modifications to your scooter. With more powerful builds, I've seen much more benefit in using the Hoca. Check out the link below if you wish to purchase one for yourself.
www.partsforsco...
Get all of the detials on Project 49 at 49ccScoot.Com and don't forget to Like the video and subscribe for more. Thank you for watching!
I searched around hopelessly on the internet for a while trying to find out more about these dang scooters. I watched like 4 videos of yours and I understand it all now
Thanks alot!! Awesome video!!
I got my scooter fixed now because the amazing video, thanks man! ;)
I took deleted the shims and now I have more powerful and faster take off speed and I get about 43-45 mph top speed
I measured the inside and outside diameter of the drive boss and bought shims as close as I could get from McMaster-Carr. Couldn't find them in the right outside diameter, so I bought them a little larger and ground them down. RacingPlanet has some for the minarelli now, might check and see if they carry them for your 150.
there is another way to space this thing out instead of using the shims. On Malossi variators they space it from the inside out because the drive boss is so short and you can do the same on this variator and I believe you can use the malossi because the diameter is the same and the hoca is just about identical to the malossi. The polini will tear your belt up and is really used only on the track because they make it turn up and stay turned up. On a lot of scooters you still have to shim it out at the front so the starter boss will catch but you can space it out from the inside and the rear clutch will be more in line and you can use washers instead of shims. Malossi has been doing it this way on multivar for years. It is a different approach but it works and besides they are the oldest aftermarket company in the world and started on piaggio so they have been around longer than your grandparents so they have to know what they are doing.
I've used shims inside too. Works fine and you don't have to get the OD perfect because they shouldn't be passing through the bushing in the variator. It's a bit tougher to setup though. With them outside you just pull the fan off and add or remove. Inside you have to take the variator off and it's kind of a pain IMO unless they are cut to fin through the bushing and then you put the vari on and push it through with the boss. Still, shims are nice to have because they're available in .1 - .5- 1.0mm and such.
Great video!
My belt wobbles and vibrates at top speed. Do I possibly need spacers? (100 cc big bore)
Maybe a stiffer contra spring. Perhaps the current one isn't keeping it in control. I'd do a thorough inspection of the CVT.
Have the same issue I thought it was my gearing as heard it’s got short gears but now I think abt it i added the spacer and it got a lot better from basically not taking off but still slow take iff
It usually takes some trial and error testing to see what works with spacing, and of course the clutch setup has to be pretty close to get a strong launch.
@@49ccscoot I think clutch needs stronger springs but I was hoping there was a way to modify it say make it lighter or something
@@joshuasalisbury789 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/359/lightening-stock-clutch
Am I the only one who thinks its hilarious when someone with a scooter talked about "off the line power"
0-20mph in 3, 0-30 in 8 with a 4T. I'm happy with my power
Hi I’m having a issue with a Yamaha neos 2001 it’s got motoforce 70 bore a Doppler s3r pipe and a Doppler variator with 4.8 rollers in stock 12mm carb with 70 main jet and a standard clutch standard contra I believe was second hand but good and yellow springs it’ll pull off well and the hit power band and go very well then hits about 30 and just tops out revs drop off and the engine just builds speed slowly i haven’t actually found a road long enough to get it past 40mph the rollers are new I have some 6g rollers here I might mix them up tomorrow and a week ago would start every time even without choke but now I’m finding it hard to start sometimes any advice will be very appreciated
Maybe the angle changes in the torque driver and causes a shift and lower RPM and the engine doesn't deal with it well. Could be that you need rollers that will let it rev more once that happens.
Can i remove variator original washer and drive without ? It’s an piaggio mp3 500cc
I don't know any specifics for that model. If it's a shim or spacer for the drive boss, maybe. You'd need to check spacing to be sure it doesn't let splines protrude past other splined parts or anything like that.
So if I'm getting to 34 in 20 seconds on a 4T Vision 50cc I'm doing good? (Did lots of variator tuning) Top speed is 40mph now (gps) with 738 belt (cranking 8400). Cruise is at like 35 and 7700.
That's about where my 49cc TaoTao was. I am a heavy rider though, so lighter riders should be able to get better acceleration. Check out Project TaoTao on here if you haven't seen it before.
@@49ccscoot I have a slightly heavier bike like 240lb. Ice Bear Vision is like a Zuma. 0-20 in 3, 0-30 in 8. Best I can get so far. 47mm bbk come spring
@@49ccscoot yes and I am on your forums too reading and learning. Learned CVT stuff from you and your site
I am pretty sure that guys who began learning to work on 4 and 2 stroke engines with scooters have learned more about performance and power than guys who had the money to buy high powered bikes but couldn't figure out what to do with them.
Hello
very cool video you made. Excuse my English is not so good at it.
But in your video 00:57 I have the same problem that the first takes hold in high gear.
Just bought a new complete clutch, belt and vario. But it still do it. It also made it before I put it on. I have passed on it once. I do not know if it would have any meaning?
I have tried everything, but nothing works.
I have tried to adjust the needle in the carburetor.
And tried to put other trim springs and compression springs in the clutch. But nothing helps.
It helps little to put the spacer between like you do in the video. But I would like it to pull right away I twist the handle. But there are always 5 seconds before it takes on.
Hope you can help me.
Soren
if spacing hels perhaps you need more spacing? Look at the front and rear pulleys when the engine is off and see where the belt rides. If it can't reach the outside or near the outside of the rear pulley and isn't riding on or near the drive boss up front then try more spacers or perhaps you need a longer belt.
Hello again
I do not have much space to the spacer on the front drive boss. And the belt is Original. After i crash its drive bad.
Have you made sure no hoses or anything were damaged/disconnected from crashing? No fuel or oil where it shouldn't be? Lighter rollers maybe stiffer clutch springs.
Yeah i have check All Cabels and hosses but i can't see nothing. There is some oil outside the caburator. And under the exhaust to the cylinder.
Oil around the exhaust header flange most likely means there's a leak. Could be very minimal. Hopefully no oil leaks around the carb. It's normal for a little gas/oil residue to end up on the inlet side of the carb and in the airbox simply because of the inefficiency of reeds in a 2T, but if it's excessive or on the outside of the carb you need to thoroughly look for leaks. I don't expect either of these to be your issue with the acceleration, but it's always good to stay on top of things. I think your porblem is reltated to the tuning of either the carb and CVT and there's no easy answer I can give you, especially not being present to witness it. It will likely require some fiddling with carb and CVT tune to sort it out.
Hi man. I experienced the same with mine like a brief bog on take off then it's gonna be fine. Is that because of the length of the variator boss? And i noticed that the position of the belt on the rear pulley on mine is a bit lowered unlike in the 1:42 and 2:23 mark on your vid. With that position of the belt, would that give me a poor low gear on takeoff? And by the way if i add spacers, would that make the variator nut protrude a lil bit?thanks
If you play with spacers, you have to check to see how the splines are. May be able to change spacing elsewhere to make it work. With the belt low in the rear pulley, takeoff will suffer.
@@49ccscoot by that what do you mean by finding spacing somewhere else? Variator crankshaft has 15 teeth. My scooter is a 1pe40qmb mineralli type by the way. And a stage6 sport pro variator.
Gotta make sure the splines go into everything they need to, but not out of the splined parts. So if it doesn't reach the kick starter pawl, it's an issue and you'd have to figure out how to make it work by removing space behind the vari or something. If the splines go past the starter pawl, then you'd need to add spacers outside of the vari to prevent that. Just something to be aware of when you mod.
@@49ccscoot it fits just right with all the parts put into place like the star key, kickstart washer, crank washer and nut. If i place a shim washer will it not make it protrude? Sorry if i ask this silly questions cause honestly i havent tried putting one.
It's possible. Usually not an issue with reasonable shimming. Most of the time 1-2mm of spacing makes enough difference and that's usually OK.
Where did you get those spacers? I'm having the same problem you had, where the belt doesn't reach the bottom of my front pulley and I need to move my drive face out about 1mm, but I can't seem to find spacer washers in that size.
I made my own out of some aluminum. A step drill 9/16 center hole. And snipped to fit 20mm boss. . I have .055 .039. And .025 inch. Shimms
What is the spacers good for anyway? just asking :)
Also, this is on a 150cc GY6, not a 49cc.
when you see an aprila sr 50 shoot off two stroking at 72 mph its pretty cool from a 50 cc 13 in speed rated tyres 2K price tag used from a drunk scoot pardon term.. you want to see race nite at drag strip wer a million wasted nightly on noise and fuel burning up shiet yea I know the wrecks doh..
no podrias hacer uno es español gracias
Some people are into different things than you are. Is that ok with you? I like scooters as well, and i enjoy making things that are slow, fast, but i also enjoy having just enough power to do the speed limit and get 120 miles to each gallon of gas. That is just intelligent. I also have a honda civic. It has little power as well, but it saves me money on gas, and it is well kept and clean. I like these things, and you do not. Should i feel inadequate because you have a negative opinion?
The spacer should not be on the splines on axel at the end of that gliding sleeve.Spacer need to have the sleeve outer diameter as it,s inner diameter and fit to slide on the sleeve.That restrict variator to engage the most high gear on "flat" surface.Who gave you this dumb idea?.Can ruin crankshaft and outer half of belt pulley.Also it can make the starter solenoid not reaching and grip teeth as it should.
Yes it would be better to use a skinny belt. Not really possible. All the same belts are of different lengths. No real standards. Maybe Brandi or narayuk belts have standards
You should've spent the money on an 80cc kit lol. What a waste
70cc kit is the first mod I like to do if it's my own personal scoot. Actually, 96-103cc big bore stroker is where mine typically go. This was just testing to see what does and doesn't work. Why do we know what the best route is? Because people have tried things to find out.
Yes but he can still use this. Fast stuff with a big bore kit. As the crank fails ?