Minarelli Scooter Over Range Rear Pulley Alternatives Project 1of3
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2014
- In this video series I was looking for possible cheap alternatives to an over range rear pulley for the Minarelli / Jog / 1E40QMB two-stroke scooter engine. Along the way I tried to include information on other CVT topics that may be useful, in addition to detailing what was done to make each pulley fit my Chinese scooter's 1E40QMB transmission.
Part 1 : This video is part 1.
Part 2 : • Minarelli Scooter Over...
Part 3 : • Minarelli Scooter Over...
✅Tip Jar (Did this video help you?)✅
paypal.me/49ccscoot
Even if you aren't looking for an over range pulley, check out the listing below to help you find specific sections in the series about other topics.
Part 1 (24min53sec)
0:14 What is an over range CVT?
2:27 Malossi Over Range CVT Kit
6:28 Using Spacers On The Drive Boss
11:47 Morini Rear Pulley
14:59 Elongating Torque Driver Grooves
Part2 (32min02sec)
0min00sec Modified Stock Rear Pulley
4min11sec Modifying A stock Front Pulley Fixed Half
11min13sec Stock CVT
14min45sec Piaggio Rear Pulley
20min16sec CVT Cover Clearance
27min12sec Flat Centered Front Drive Face
Part3 (15min57sec)
0min00sec 139QMB/GY6 50 Rear Pulley
5min54sec Hoca Rear Pulley
10min40sec Conclusion
Thanks for watching and please Like, Favorite, and Subscribe for more!
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#ScooterTuning #CVT #ScooterPerformance - Авто та транспорт
Mate your style of presentation is perfect. Not to fast and not too slow. Easy to understand. Very important key information mentioned which is almost always missed out. Love the visuals. Not over selling yourself. Just straight to the shit. I came here unintentionally as well. I'm not even planning a cvt upgrade, in all honesty your title and thumbnail got me!
I love this 8 year old video and still helping people out. I’m working on my daughters Bombardier DS 90 atv and honestly I didn’t know much about cvt this was well worth the watch
Well done. really informative and the Variator/Clutch balancing now makes more sense to me.
Come the spring and I will certainly try playing with over range bits n bobs.
Thanks again
Amazing work! Will watch all parts of this series!
Great. this confirms my set up. Stock torque and clutch springs. Longer belt. Larger variator. Shorter boss pin and a combinated roller weights. I switched my gears from stock 13-40 to a longer 15-38. Igor the same acceleration but 20% more top speed
This video might be eight years old but the info contained within it still relevant and will always be relevant thank you very much for that.
Thanks for all the info. I'm going to watch a few of your videos as I begin to tune my own scooter.
Great idea,that deal with the grinder was something;
.........great video. You are a great educator. Thorough, methodical.............and patient.
King of tuning I like your information you are the best I see millions of videos you're the best
I like too :)
This is not tuning , it’s bolt on .
This Channel is Gold, thank you for all the great Videos! 💯
@@hayesjavion4995 shut up man and grow up
omg the work that this dude put in his vidoes is feneamenal you deserve more subs
Thank you!
Feneamenal? What's that?
Sir I love your no BS style and appreciate the time and effort you display...I know it is very time consuming and I just want to say well done just subbed.
Thank you!
@@49ccscoot brings malossi torque drive better acceleration for Wheelies or oem better ? Top speed is Not important
@@DoM-Inik Depends what it is. I don't like the straight groove torque drivers much for stock stuff. With performance builds and aftermarket variators, they work better.
@@49ccscoot have a Minarelli with 50ccm Top Performance and Malossi Multivar. Come from Germany Scooter must not faster than 30mph run. I just want acceleration
@@DoM-Inik It should keep RPM more stable.
Good job, mate. Really helpfull!
Another excellent video. Thank you for posting these. There are so many different possibilities and it is so nice to see the results of your experimentation. Thank you again.
wow this is the best ever ever ever video about the detailed CVT calibration! a big thank you!
You rock dude. Thank you for the video.
Nice to see there are other guys like me, spending hours and Days of thinking and building low-budget improvements on those scooter parts. In the end i use Dr.Pulley Variator sliders a Malossi Variator and a Naraku Twist control, this makes most "bang for the buck", on the gy6 139qmb the e-starter gear makes a large overrange impossible.^^
I’m revisiting some of your older work
I need to study this harder
Heya 😊
Nice series you made. It helped me alot 😜
It's nice to see a new Video from you! And i been thinking of Changing my rear pulley for a while and. But dont think i have the guts to start out with this kind of a Project. But thanks for the video appreciate it.
Thanks for watching.
excellent video. Very informative.
Nice Video dude!
Gretings from Germany
+DriNow Thanks!
nice video ,very informative. thx a lot m8
best video showing the motorcycle cvt
Thank you!
This is proper scientific (field) research! Cheers mate!
Very good video. Wish you would do some more new 2 stroke jobs. I really appreciate all your videos thank you
Thank god this guy doesn`t charge money for his videos. A lot of good information, very good explonation, becouse of you i reach 54mph with my little Yamaha. God bless you.
Thanks! Nice speed!
What is the most compatible to my scooter skydrive roller
And how many grams i put it
I use a 128mm standard Piaggio rear pulley, with an additional linear pathway. Originally it was a "banana shape", but my friend did the CNC milling and introduced 3 new pathways next to the original ones. To me it is essentially an overrange now :)
Nice! Everyone needs a friend with a CNC.
you are a master bravo
My 5BM setup for example: stock variator with milled roller housings, belt 17x804, rollers 5.4gr., 1mm washer, Suzuki Sepia stock torquedriver. It runs 84 kmh via GPS with rev limiter.
Nice project!
Thank you!
All i did to gain a much wider variable 'gearing' range on my 139qmb was to fit +1mm wider than stock (17mm instead of 16mm) 3~5g roller weights to my stock variator. I also fitted a 6mm shorter belt than the stock (723mm x 18mm instead of 729mm).
The wider weights allowed the belt to ride the front pulley higher and the shorter belt pulled in tigher on the rear pulley (giving a much wider ratio range). One or the other would work for a light to medium tuned engine, or both for heavily tuned engines to hit 50+mph without overevving. Much cheaper than final drive gearing changes, sports variators etc. Sure it would work for any CVT system.
¡thanks you very mucho!
Hello I love you videos. Im in The Philippines And have a new Nmax 155 And being a retierd mech And racer I wanted to work ON The CVT. Almost All videos ON YT are in Tagalog Or other languages I can figure out alot by watching The videos but listening And watching you is very helpfull in understand The other operations of The CVT no matter The bike
Thanks again
I've got a full service CVT video and a video of a service on my TMAX 500 if you need some more sort of generic help, not directly for the NMAX.
ua-cam.com/video/2EjW-iSP-Q8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/KZffhiiJLXI/v-deo.html
@@49ccscoot Thank you
This is a Very Good Video...
Thank you!
your awesome i just built my first scooter and it went pretty smooth only some clutch issues with the sleeve fititng over the torque driver on my new naraku even tryning to press fit it would not go... but i saw some people didnt use the sleeves that help guide the spring so i left it out and used a 1500 naraku spring torque driver and clutch had to buy new rear main pulley cuz it was bent works perectly, so i have a kymco agility 50 with a naraku 90cc kit only issue with the kit that you dont see in most videos is that is extremely important to have correct ring end gap most you have to file, the correct ring end gap according to wiesco is the bore times .0045 for the top ring and bore times .0055 for second ring if the are the same you will get ring chatter if they are stock gap usually .04 or .07 it will be too tight ring gap and your engine will get hot and will not last long correct ring gap and clocking will ensure your big bore kit will last for many years, other issues were finding a good air filter that would stay on and fitting my intake manifold to my naraku 18.5mm carb which people say is too small but 90cc is top end a bigger carb actually lets in too much air is and not good for acceleration speed bigger isnt always better,also with performance exhaust most have a reducer you will have to remove for your scooter will go over 30mph new computer fuel filter lines votlage regulator plug wire and idruim spark plug (check plug gap)battery and variotor with 6g weights, im a big guy so lighter weights work for me got an ncy mid lobe cam and i find i have great low to mid end power it rides comfortably at 40-45 and tops out around 53mph also so sintered brake pads help stop her with the extra power i highly recommend naraku and ncy parts quality and fitment are great and iv had zero issues with any parts except my air filter always wanting to fall off kN and uni both dont last or stay on but uni works the best, i started with a 98 main jet which it ran a bit lean(white spark plug end) and fianally settled on a 102 main jet stock piolet is 35 and workis fine, main issue is gettting the 90cc to idle with a 102 jet getting enough air at idle and too much fuel caused it to die a 30mm air intake uni filter idruim spark plug ($25expensive) and having the idle screw on carb almost turned alll the way to get idle as high as possible allows most air too seems to be only way the 102 jet will work, i prefer my scooter to run a lil on the richer side also with the ring gap correct i know it will be super reliable if you are going to run your scooter lean to squeeze out every bit of every hp you need to have ring gap perfect or you risk detonation
Man we cant put any comments u already did what no one ever did in youtube about the 50cc minarelli i hope u continue on what u do cs u explained alot of things i need
I have aprilia sr 50 and i cant pass 65km/h i hope you help me to fix that i really got some ideas from ur vidéo i will try them and i hope it be helpful to me great job man !
Zi Zo i have a sr50 ditech and it does 90 kmh just by using the wider belt. And de restricted of course!
@@mariusfranorge what belt seize u use ? And 90km/h on GPS or the mecanic counter ? I mean 65km on GPS
Zi Zo i measure when i come home. U are aware they usually have 2 restrictors?
much info, ty
using different spacers internally to the rear modified clutch and moving the bearing interrior of the gear drive gear sfaft might give you better clutch pully alignment
For the pulley you asked about you can try a company called ARC It stands for Amudsen Research Corp. They used to do 5 hp Briggs stuff for JR dragsters. I had a limited Modified Briggs. It probably made about 16 hp @ 9400rpm I had one of their Stage 1 lock up convertors on my kart. The front pulley is direct drive on the crank and the rear is where everything happens. They are in Albany Ga. If they are still in business. They had those pulleys along with springs weights all that stuff. Great video btw. A lesson on what it takes to get true results.
Thanks for the info.
Best videos ive seen on upgrades,,,Great job... Now please do Polaris 90cc and corvette z06 c6 lol..I am watching your videos for my 2 stroke Polaris predator.. Most videos with good techs are pay for techs trying to sell you something.You I believe are different ..
+Super Mario Plush Bros 1 I swapped a Polaris 90cc into my Keeway Venus. Most of my stuff on the 2T Minarellis should apply for you. Also, I have info (text and pics) on my forum (it's free, not trying to sell you anything still lol).
Very nice project,good info,where did u buy all the upgrade kits,Sory bad english, thanks u..
Zool Helmi Ali Rahman I got my Malossi OR from : www.g-forcepowersports.com/
I get the Hoca stuff from : www.partsforscooters.com/?partner=49CCSCOOT
The Morini pulley was from : www.scooterpartsexpress.com
Real good test and outstanding work on the modifications! It would seem that a jackshaft with gears and a chain drive off
of the CVT would make it easier to tailor the performance just by changing the gears? It's amazing that you are getting the
speed out of the 50cc engine and wonder if it would be more practical to go to a 125cc engine using some of the same
ideas?
To be truly practical and sensible, you should ride a motorcycle classed scooter if you want to cruise 50MPH or above.
ATV versions of these engines have a sprocket on the axle. Things start to get overly complicated when you need to figure out how to support the wheel and drive it without it attached to the engine though.
Hi mate, you should modify the pulley, to make rollers slide higher. then you will find top speed.
Very good video. Did you have the one how you upgrade original pulley??
i have problem with my mallosi or variator.i have oirignal pulley and belt in front variator dont go all the way it has 15mm mark left. i use 1000 rpm big spring and try many rollers and other things but it dont klimb ower. i have original 744 long belt. but cant find a bit higher. i tryed 788 but its to big
I usually end up browsing any belt catalogs I can find if I'm looking for something different. Gates, Malossi, Bando, Dayco, or any other manufacturers I can find info on.
The stock rear pulley just gets the grooves elongated.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/358/torque-driver-modification
Just bought a 2008 Andretti X50 in rough but restorable shape and know these are rare HP 49cc gems. Can hit 55 mph stock and I am 245 pounds. Want to spruce it up just a little for 60-65 mph driving and think this kit would be the one with a better carb.
Hey. No offense, but 55MPH stock sounds optimistic. My Tritons are CPI engines like the Benelli, but they'd only hit 50-55 with strong tailwinds or downhill and that was on the stock gauge. Real world flat ground with GPS or calibrated speedometer was a little over 40MPH.
Generally for 55-65MPH, you need a big bore kit and an exhaust. A pipe on a stock cylinder can get around 50 pretty commonly. You need more power for 60-65MPH. The OR CVT won't get you there. If it were me, I'd go for a big bore kit and exhaust first and the larger carb isn't a bad idea at that point.
16:12 u r smart
Please what other brands have interchangeable parts for the Aprilia Leonardo 125cc 1998? Its hard searching aprilia and limited results. Im sure many other have same cvt as them. Please help me
I to thank you for the information in your videos. I've got an Andreotti binelli x 50 . The scooter is to far gone to put back on the road. But the engine block is in good shape. It came with a 12mm wrist pin in the crank and larger studs than the minrelli I have on another scooter. What I want to do is upgrade to a 90cc . its a 50cc. Can you recommend a crank thats mid range in price. Thank you very much.
The 90cc cranks have been harder to come by lately. Most of the people on the forum are ordering full circle 45mm stroke cranks from a Chinese seller on AliExpress for around $100.
In case it's of use here's a bit more info on 90cc issues ;
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/999/90cc-minarelli-engine-swap-info
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/
Hello, Piaggio torque converter fit in the minarelli? the minarelli gear shaft fit inside the converter bearing? bbest!!
engine tork curve is max at 6500-8000rpm and it should stay there until you have the heavyest gear ratio. To run at 9500rpm eats pistons and piston ring,s
Good info. I have a wolf 50 cc scooter. How fast did your scooter go in stock form
~42MPH flat ground.
Great video but if you have a CVT type engine that is only electric start, then you will need an portable impact gun on the other to start the bike since is no kick start backup.
or find a way to fit a kickstarter (older cover w kickstart?)
you are a fucking genius!!!!
Thumbs up! Mate!
Hello my drive pullie is getting super hot iv just started learning about gy6 motors, but I have from my understanding the bent is too small and my rear pullie I can't pull In with my hand I am a mechanic, so I do have strength in my hands but it just doesn't want to move past 1/4 of the way
When you added the stack of washers/spacers behind the pulley, were those just regular flat washers? Did you ever experience any issues that were caused by having the stack of washers back there? I having a similar issue where my pulleys are very close to the case and I might need a thin shim (maybe 1mm thick or less) with an inside diameter of 17mm. It seems like there are plenty of washers with that inside diameter, but I haven't been able to find any application specific shims that size.
SilentRebel Just regular old washers. I didn't have any issues with them.
***** That's what I was hoping to hear. I might not even need any shims, but I wanted to make sure that if I do that regular washers would do the job and not damage anything. Thanks for the quick response.
Im curious if u could do same vid for a 150cc. Also. A brand new 150cc gy6 complete engine shipped is 300. Less than the cvt kit, let alone the other upgrades included
From what I recall, the GY6 doesn't have much room for larger components so it would make options pretty limited.
I’ve been trying to tune my cvt in my Yamaha zuma. I’ve tuned many cvts but this zuma has been giving me trouble. It’s almost like the belt is too short but it’s the size I’m supposed to have and it’s like the rear pully don’t open up enough to get the belt to travel all the way up the variator . I made sure the bell isn’t to thick. I still have a half inch of travel on the variator and the same on rear pully at idle
Contra spring too stiff. Weights too light. Those are the most common. Belt too thin (worn). Beyond that, you can check that the pulleys both open and close smoothly.
Good afternoon Brent you have me some tips in the past which was helpful....I have a yamaha jog with the same variator and clutch as this video of yours i however still have my electric parts on the bike .....I however am running a 19mm carb and stock pipe and my top speed is 40mph .....my question is what would you suggest is causing the less speed than your set up I was thinking maybe the pipe, the carb or the electric start parts??thanking you for your response
The e-start stuff shouldn't change speed to any significant degree. Eliminating that is for the benefit of a larger (thicker) variator and/or because removing some mass from the crank makes the engine more responsive.
I'm not sure what it's like with the Jog, but maybe gearing and tuning. It's not going to rev high with a stock exhaust, so if it has deep gears (numerically high ratio), that may keep it from going very fast. If it's still a stock bore, remember that this is a small engine without a lot of power so real world speeds aren't that high. Mine was a 70cc in the vid.
@@49ccscoot thanks ..I forgot to mention it has a 70cc polini kit
Hello !
I watch alot of your videos and modifie my yamaha aerox for about 4 years.
I decide to buy a piaggio mp3 and my belt to large and have contact with Cvt and slip.
I wonder if i can remove the washer betwin variator and cooling phuley.
Buy i want to make sore is not make damage to the belt.
Removing that washer shouldn't fix anything related to a belt that's too large. More likely have the opposite effect that you'd want. The real fix would be to get the right belt.
have you tried ncy CVT performance sets in comparison. i want to do my adly and my qmb139 so looking for info
I've never used the NCY trans kit. They aren't over range or as race-oriented, so they will likely provide improvements but not on the same level as an actual OR kit. Those engines don't have any real OR options to my knowledge. The Adly horizontal Minarelli clones could use OR components but I don't think there's a belt. I may be mistaken.
Where can I find the exact kit shown here, or the equivalent to whats available today? This is for gy6 50cc 139qmb motors yeah? I want to try it.
This is for the two-strokes. Minarelli/Jog/1E40QMB and I know kits are also sold for the Piaggio 2Ts. AFAIK there is no over range kit for the 139QMB. I got my kit from G-Force Powersports, but anyone that sells Malossi parts should be able to get OR kits.
Knock knock hey I know vid is old but can u tell me where u got tha Malossi clone pulleys so I can buy springs as well and a japan belt
At the time, they were sold as HOCA by PartsForScooters. They may still carry them, rebranded as SSP-G.
Easy way make spacer is cut the slice of tube and cut it if it not fit.
has anyone changed thier gears on their scooter what do they use and like, thinking of going naraku i think for my kymco agility engine code is gy6 or qmb139,a 11-17 or 14-47, i know the bigger gear changes to a 47 tooth does anyone else use a 47 tooth what is their top speed and how do they find high end acceleration on most scooter you dont get alot of acceleration after like 35-40 takes a min
can i grind down weld(ring) on minarelli pulley?
It blocks belt to go all the way down in pulley
You'd probably be better off to leave it alone for the integrity of the pulley. I have had a pulley come apart at the welds and I didn't do anything to the welded areas.
Thanks for the videos they are very informative.
I have an aprilla scarabeo 50 in stock form it runs 45mph.
I've installed a 70cc cheap Kit it runs very good from idle to 50- 55 mph I'm happy BUT
I want to enter a race in May
ATT 320 miles in Lake Tahoe
It looks like I need to average 45 mph some freeway at 60 mph
is this possible?
Can I do this with a cheap eBay 99$ pipe a 19 mm carb
Or I'm looking at $400
90cc engine swap plus more stuff $ as needed
This is a nice scooter every day
Can I have both a race And daily
Driver?
Any help I would appreciate
If you want to do 60MPH on a 70cc, don't cheap out on the pipe and the cylinder must match up to the pipe. Not just physically with the port/header, but it needs to be suitable timing for the cylinder. There's some porting info in the link below to help you with what I'm saying.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/1712/project-90-detailed-performance-upgrages?page=2
19-21mm carb should be good, depending how aggressive you get. Most with a street/sport cylinder and a little work prob won't need anything huge.
You can have a scooter that does what you say and is able to be ridden daily. True race, no... but the high end race stuff on this is very expensive, needs lots of tuning and maintenance, and runs at very high RPM and power levels. The stock cranks usually don't like pushing too far beyond 10,000RPM on a regular basis. If you needed a lot more than what you're saying (45-60MPH) then you'd probably be better off to get a spare engine used, build it, and keep the current engine for daily use.
Check out the forums at 49ccScoot.Com. Lots of 2T riders/tuners there.
sharonnnmike
Ok I got the molossi overrange kit for my Yamaha zuma took electric start out dremal the case to fit everything I’ve swapped from weak to stiff contra spring and light to heavy rollers and I used the belt provided with the kit, used spacer for clutch and bell used a couple spacers for the variator boss in front of it and I moved them behind it tried all this and I’ve squeezed the rear pully to make sure it opens right and it does but when I ride it’s like it’s not opening enough and going up the variator enough the lightest weights used were 3.5 heaviest 6.5 lightest contra 1000 stiffest 2000 I guess the red one that came with the overrange kit. It’s driving me nuts!! And tips??
Look up Malossi's spring color charts. They aren't like the generic stuff where it's just Blue>Yellow>Red. Soft contra springs have worked well for me with the OR.
I finally got it!! Thanks for making those overrange video’s help me alot
Malossi and Polini a very best 🔝🏆🥇❤️
excuse me... i have this situati0n...i have a st0ck sc0oter 4t and i want t0 gain m0re accelerati0n with0ut b0ring up... just the cvt c0mpartment... d0 y0u rec0mmend 2krpm center spring and bel0w 40g will d0? thanks...
I would not go all the way to a 2K contra spring. To me that's just making service more difficult than necessary and mine doesn't seem to like heavy springs very much. Even with heavier weights, it doesn't want to open the pulley as it should. I have to go to weights heavier than ideal for acceleration to get better speed with the stiff springs. I use a 1K contra and 36-42g total usually. Clutch springs helped me quite a bit off the line too. You should check out my Project TaoTao series. The ignition advance free mod shown there helps, and it's hard to beat free.
NEED HELP. 2007 yamaha C3, New polini speed var, 16 x 13, 4.5 gram dr pulley slidders can only get 29 to 32 mph. Stock contra spring. What size contra spring would be best? Kit came with blue contra spring. I weigh 235lbs it ran better in the past has been put away for 7 years. Any ideas Thank you.
I don't know enough about the C3 to give you any specific tuning advice, but you can try posting on the forum (49ccscoot.proboards.com).
Hey there. At the moment , with a 2002 aerox I bought cheap unlicensed, I am getting it back on the road with a cheap cast iron 70cc kit and other parts from ZX_motortriebe or whatever they're called from Germany It's already got a leo vince ZX which is a good all rounder exhaust.. Eventually I want to try the 100cc kit from autotech355. I will probably buy the overrange kit and get the polini torsen wd right hand side rear wheel brace also get the stage 6 vforce reed intake and polini go kart style intake filter. I'd like to still use a dellorto carb. , will buy primary and secondary gears too. I was thinking a VHST 28 or something similiar. I will use one of the pm tuning x-tech 360 exhausts as I like the look and they're a good exhaust without being too peaky. will also get a larger aluminium radiator. I will however clean up the ports on either cylinder, and match the transfers from the case with my dremel and adjust the cylinder head squish to 9cc or whatever the optimum amount is. You know I don't wanna spend silly amounts on these bikes like getting $1500 cylinder and crank packages or putting twin cylinder setups in them. I mean you can buy a 600cc supersports bike and blow the whole show away. But I just want a bike that will cruise at 100 kp/h and have more in the bank, having that underseat storage is so handy, most people don't understand.I have several motorbikes, some older cafe'd out hondas, some sportsbikes, but I always want to keep a performance scooter for running about town
shoominati23 There's a lot of 70cc stuff that would do what you want too. 90cc mild builds are good for having a nice wide powerband without really high revs and they can appear more like stock, but you can outrun them with a good 70cc and pipe.
Yea.. I just don't want something that needs to do 13000rpm to make it's power. I have to be careful because alot of the 90cc cylinders have race porting too. The one thing I like about the Aerox is you are spoilt for choice with parts availability, there's just so many different kits / upgrade parts to choose from!
Most of the 52-54mm kits I see are pretty mild... Hoca and Motoritech and sorta generic stuff. It's the name brand kits like the Malossi MHR 86cc or Polini Big Evo 94cc and so on that get wild.
I don't mind if my 100c kit is mildish. just as long as I don't have to put extra gaskets on the bottom of the barrel and kill the port timing, if it does that, it will be going back. But I always do a bit of porting on my cylinders and match all the case to cylinder and cylinder to manifold ports anyway. If it enables to to do 100 kph comfortably without revving its tits off and be able to push up to 150 I will be happy. The speed limit in australia is 60 kph on most open roads (actually 50 on suburban streets) and 100 on the freeways. It's 110 in the country. So it doesn't need to be a high revving speed monster. Just do those speeds without needing a rebuild every 5000 kilometres.
+90GTVert me again hey on my ruckus clone theres a line coming from the gas tank way on top is that for venting? i would think shit would get in there. can i use a different cap? and plug off that hose?
Have you tried using honda dio rear pulley on minarelli’s? Will it fit nice? I know it’s 3mm bigger in diameter but will the shaft fit nicely? I am just having issues. O matter how i tried the belt just wouldn’t reach the top of the variatornon wot. It’s like the rear pulley of minarelli doesn’t open wide enough to sit the belt way down . Thanks
Haven't tried one specifically for a Dio, but the 139QMB/GY650 pulley in the video should be close since parts for those are often compatible.
Open the rear pulley when no contra spring is installed and check with a belt. There are multiple belts for Minarelli, so you could try a thinner one or just an older one.
Did you mean minarelli’s and 139qmb/gy6 rear pulleys are quite compatible?
@@ninoechavez1402 Not GY6 150, but the 139QMB (GY6 50) can be made to fit and is shown in the video.
can you tell me what stock clutch springs are rated at? and variator rollers size is stock on a 50 chines scooter?
Stock are rated as stock is the best I can tell you. Most aftermarket stuff is rated in RPM above stock. So 1000RPM springs are intended to delay engagement 1000RPM beyond stock. They do this with varying degrees of accuracy, but that's the idea.
If it's a 1E40QMB 2T, then they should be 15x12mm rollers. Usually 4-6g, depending on the model. The Chinese 4Ts (139QMB) use 16x13mm rollers, often around 5-6g.
thats disappointing i want my 100 big bore 50 cc to go 50 + like everyones do i dont thinking boosting up a 1000 rpm will do it but i will see any tips?
Whats your opinion on those decompression tube kits from ncy that are supposed to help oil pressure with big bore kits? Total scam or what?
Don't bother is my guess.
Every comments I read, all saying about 2 stroke.
Does this work with any 50cc motor scooters with 4 stroke engine?
You can try to work out an OR kit for any engine. Some engines don't really have room for it though.
i dont get it do you put your spacers behind the variator under the black plate or in front variator plate.
Either could work. They would have different effects on pulley alignment. One way would move the whole variator out from the case. For small changes, most likely either is OK.
thx for your videos, I have big problems with my scooter to get it right. i used new parts new pulleys and many diferent springs, but now I acheved that i can ride it normaly but there is one big problem it is very slow at start. it is so slow. the belt is siting high on the rear pulley and in front with 2 spacers its on the lowest can be. but no take off power. i have bunch of expencive parts on it but it just slowly starts. after few metters it pops wheele. the power is awesome it has MHR replica 70cc cylinder racing exhaust but the carb is 17,5mm standart i use 92 jet. but it only runs good with no filter and a bit faster from start. sound is huge and max speed is 60. also mhr variator. I acheved that everything is allmoust ok, it has awesome power on hills on the straight, its just get 55mph in seconds. but god damn why it cant have good power from start. btw clutch springs is red malossi. and malossi delta clutch
Watch the pulleys as the clutch engages. Sometimes stiff clutch springs can cause the clutch to engage after the CVT has already shifted out of it's lowest range. Kinda like starting off in 2nd gear. In that case, see if a step softer clutch springs will improve the situation. Some use stiffer contra springs, but then you may end up needing heavier rollers and be right back where you started. The Malossi OR variator is really good at bypassing low revs. I use it on my strokers that are low revving and I really can't make it come in at low RPM even with weights filled with lead.
Do u have a vid of the overrange install
I don't have one specifically about the OR kit install, but it is shown here a bit :
ua-cam.com/video/mTak1ywgZWA/v-deo.html
I've got a washer that I'm not sure where it goes had some help but too many people helping ,( think on purpose to confuse me) variable clutch is new but now giving me problems
There are multiple spots where washers or spacers could go in a CVT. If it's a big name brand (Yamaha, Honda, Vespa...) then the easiest thing is to look at a service manual or parts diagram on a parts site. That may be an option with some Chinese stuff as well. If I have a video about your particular CVT, you may see it there.
It's a Amigo 50 cc scooter, replaced stock variable clutch with high performance used a impact to put back on but new variable clutch didn't have washer, kick doesn't engage???
@@vernonyoung7449 It's common for aftermarket variators to need some sort of spacing adjustment/shimming. The tricky part is figuring out where. Could need spacing behind the variator nearer the crank, on the drive boss, or on the outside under the starter pawl. Shimming the drive boss will let the belt fall into the front pulley more, but can raise RPM or cause slip if it's too much. Spacing behind the variator pushes the whole assembly out and adding or removing spacing there changes alignment of the front and rear pulleys. If everything seems good, but you don't get kickstart engagement then it may just need spacing under the starter pawl. First make sure the kickstart parts are good. They do wear down if used regularly. Whatever you do, make sure the crank splines engage the starter pawl well, but DO NOT protrude out of it. If splines stick out, the nut can't tighten all the way to hold everything properly.
Do you just files yours spacers outside edge with a file or a better tool? It takes a while with a old fashion file!
I used to use a grinder. Now I use the lathe and do a group of spacers if I have to do it. Someone on the forum showed an easy way to use a drill to do a group of spacers quickly. They chucked up a bolt with spacers secured to it and then spun it against a grinder. You have to be careful doing that and make sure the spacers are secure so they can't move. Preferably with a close match to the spacer ID via a collar. Most of the time I just get spacers from scootertuning these days and they work fine without mods.
Thanks!
Again I say.. great video series
Suggest me the best choice for tuning transmission (Contra spring, Clutch springs, Rollers)
It varies, which is why it's tuning and not just parts replacement. That said, if it's a stock 1E40QMB with 10:1 gears and a 130/70-12 rear tire like mine was, I liked 4g sliders and 1,500-2,000RPM clutch springs for a stock setup. Beyond there, so many variables make it impossible to spit out an accurate guess at what's going to be the best choice for a combo.
@@49ccscoot That's the best choice to do?
@@49ccscoot My rear tire is 120
hey pal- i was wondering if the zuma overdrive kit could be used on the 40qmb. I just dont know what i would need for a belt or if one exists.
If the variator is the right size. 2 different crank spline sizes in the Chinese engines, 1 should work with Zuma stuff and the other won't. You'd probably need the same belt I use (6111108).
90GTVert thanks a million . I have been told too many times overange isn't an option. Sweet
i got the full kit now and the proper belt. But my issue is i dont have enough threads exposed on the input shaft to put on the clutch bell nut did you have any issues with your rear pulley?
I've had no problems with that using the steel OR rear pulley or the newer aluminum one. If nothing stops the pulley from sitting near the cases, then maybe there's an issue with your clutch or bell.
90GTVert nothing binds at all. It all fits its just only a few threads are on the input shaft. Are left after I put the bell on. Maybe my bell is too thick
What roller weight would be good for stunt scooter? If i want the front wheel to air easily...
I can't tell you exactly, because it can vary so much for each setup. Most likely you want to keep the weights light though, so it revs quickly. You will be more concerned with getting into power quick than keeping revs low for top speed or cruising. Light rollers and/or a stiff contra spring and probably stiff clutch springs should serve you best. As always, tune it to get the best results rather than just swapping parts in.
+90GTVert I got 70cc, 17.5mm carburetor, malossi multivar & some random differend weight rollers, and it feels wierd, im going to change there stage6 race clutch, and 2-5g rollers, and the next question is, what is the best spring for the clutch, soft, medium or hard? :_D
I really can't give you these answers. If you want the best performance, you must tune. You need a contra stiff enough to take the slack out of the belt. After that, you'll be alright as long as the rollers/sliders work well with it. Clutch springs need to be just stiff enough to get a good engagement RPM, without being too stiff and allowing the rest of the CVT to start shifting before the clutch engages.
necro posting, but why did you change the rollers from 7g to 8g? The 8g showed lower rpm (as expected) and lower performance. 7-8g seems super heavy, I am considering going to 5gm on my Jog, but it is a 50cc.. I assume that the weight is only a number and that the rpm (in relation to powerband) is the only thing that matters?
IMO some CVT tuning is preference. RPM is what matters. Whether it takes 2g or 12g, you just want to keep the engine in the powerband as much as possible for max performance.
Do a Burgman 400 please.
what is the difference in the belts 788-17-28 vs 729-17.7-30 is this a long case
First number is the length. Second is the width. Last is the pitch, or angle of the sides. 788 17 28 is a common long case belt, and actually works well on most short case Chinese Minarellis.
video at 11 min 51 sec says 11.48 w/o spacer. w/o means with out? if so , it was 11.48 with the spacer..
+Super Mario Plush Bros 1 Yeah, that's an error in the text. Sorry.
Hey I have a Yamaha jog, mineralli horizontal.. I put a street build on it molossi cluch and belt and variator. It seems like my cluch or rear tire area. Sputters like something is bouncing maybe. If all the clutch pads don’t catch the bell will it stumble. Or feel a bounce?
The easiest way to know if you have abnormal clutch pad/bell contact would be to take the bell off and have a look. You should be able to spot an unusual wear pattern when you examine the shoes. You'd most likely get symptoms from a clutch issue the worst right around where it engages and disengages.
If the clutch looks OK, maybe at least drain your gear oil and see if you find much metal or very dirty/burnt gear oil. If not, refill. If so, you may want to have a look in there or at least check the primary drive shaft and axle for any excess play or noises when the gearbox rotates.
Thank you for the answer. I checked the drive shaft and switched out rear pully, clutch, belt and rollers and get the same outcome. What if your rear pully touches clutch? I’ve seen your video on that. Does that make the bike shake and it’s like it’s getting all the rpm it can, but there could be more rpm.. it like something shaking or slipping
@@nastynatesscooters9896 If the clutch restricts the rear pulley's travel, it usually just acts like it runs out of "gears" early. RPM is higher than it should be at speed.
Where did you get your mineralli cvt case bearing? That strange one
@@nastynatesscooters9896 The one in the CVT cover? It's standard on these. I usually buy them on eBay by part #.
Whats your jetting for the 21? Cant seem to find the sweet spot for a stock box snorkel removed.
I honestly don't know what it was for that setup. Most often I'm between 95-105 with the 21mm PHBG, snorkel removed, and the snorkel opening enlarged a little. I have used slightly larger and smaller than that range as well. If you're having much trouble with the main jets, make sure you're using a matched set of jets. I was using mixed and matched jets from different places (all supposed to be 5mm Dell jets though) till recently. I had some strange things happen when tuning and checked them with jet drills and found that some jets were not sized properly in relation to each other so I could be trying to richen it up and actually leaning it out or vice versa.
90GTVert when using 95 with no snorkel i get a real bad sputter.but for some reason i cant get idle to stay consistent, i used a 37 cause i thought it was flooding.but even a 42 still gave me the issue of incredibly low idle along with dying the moment i give fuel,if i pull the choke it will take the throttle.im a bit confused on this..
When a carb gives you a real tough time, you can go back to 2 basic things to be sure they're correct. Clean the carb thoroughly and make sure the float height is good.
How does the idle mix screw respond? That should tell you if you have to change the pilot. May need to work with the needle.
90GTVert its insanely irritating,i need to have the pilot jet screw more than 3 turns out for a 37 pilot jet,and 45 pilot,or it wont idle for more than 3 seconds. Im also using a w7 needle.
Could also try a W3 or W4. Those are 2.48mm vs 2.50mm diameter where it would matter for idle. From why I've seen and others have reported, it's unusual to go much beyond the 40s on the pilot with these, but since the screw needs to be out much that's usually telling you it wants more fuel.
I have yamah neos too much sound when I acceleration but very low speed what should I change new bolt veriator and belt
buy an complete kit Malossi multivar 2000 and 1 Belt Malossi u can afford.
Thanks man
king kong u welcome
/watch?v=9DhiChyJN3s
king kong don't put the limiter if u want speed
hi 49ccScoot , i have 72 cc scooter 139qmb3 . what is the difference between two belts 669.18.255 and 669.18.30?
One has a 25.5 degree angle and the other has a 30 degree angle. This is the side angle, where it contacts pulley faces. 30 is the most common for the 139QMB stuff. Both will likely work. Make sure you use a quality belt. Don't buy generic Chinese junk or they will fail.
@@49ccscoot i use Continental 669.18.255
THIS makes me like mechanics again. The real truth: Mechanics. (I do electronics, chemistry, biological research, and metaphysics with book writing...tons of guess work, not beauty.) Of course, I speak in the name of do it all with seek a Higher Power (get a secret name for Him....and live forever)...........
So is this a way to get more mph without boring or is this more for transferring the extra power from a bored out cylinder to power and speed? I want to do anything to get this damn scooter to at least go fast enough to keep up with traffic on a 40 mph road but mine literally wont go over 30 period, and Ive hear so many horror stories of bbk so I dont want to do that.
A good CVT setup will make the most of the power available. I wouldn't bother spending $300 on an OR CVT for a stock engine. These shine with modified engines that can make better use of them.
Since you said it's a 139QMB in another comment, I'd go with a 72cc big bore kit if it were me. There is the potential for less engine life, but it doesn't seem to be as dramatic as what happens with the 50mm and larger bores.
Where can i buy racing parts for my jog3kj? I need a site
+laurence Skater I use www.partsforscooters.com/?partner=49CCSCOOT for some stuff, but for more race oriented stuff or big name brands scootertuning.ca is good.
Hey maybe you can help me I’m have a issue with my 50cc moped . My back wheel is not spinning. I changed the belt, Variator, and clutch and still having the same issue. I took off the cvt case and started the bike and noticed that everything seems to work but noticed the front part of the clutch that spins the wheel was not spinning. When I spin it manually the wheel spins but not when the engine is running, just the belt, back part of the clutch, and Variator. The clutch is new so I know the pads are not slipping, only thing I can think of is it’s not getting enough torque for the clutch springs to open the clutch to catch. Your thoughts please.
Maybe it has stiff springs and you aren't getting RPM up enough to engage it. Some models have different sizes of clutches and bells available, so maybe a mismatch there.
@@49ccscoot I brought a new stock clutch like the one that was already on the bike. But I do believe it’s a RPM problem would that be something with the engine or carburetor cause that’s something I changed?
@@STMENTNETWORK You should be able to tell if it's RPM. If it can't even rev enough to get the clutch to spin, then the RPM should be WAY lower than normal.
@@49ccscoot any idea on how to fix
@@STMENTNETWORK Post a quick vid of it if you can.
Hi man, have a 70cc stage6 scoot set up with stage6 vario 5g sliders, 1500rpm contra, tecnigas exhaust. I have recently changed my clutch to a performance clutch which comes with a contra spring slider ring and clutch spring pre set for 70cc cylinders. Runs pretty fast and smooth on flat and will easily do 100kph. However, suddenly noticed a change with uphill performance as it slowy loses power like from 50 down to 25kph and couldn't regain that power or acceleration. It runs fine uphill from a stop cruising at 50-60kph with stock clutch but not with the performance clutch and the contra slider on it. The contra spring slider ring seems to add pre load tension and with this, should i get a lighter slider/roller with it? The pre-load tension also seems to put the belt a few mm lower on the rear pulley which i know will affect takeoff performance.
You can try going lighter on the rollers/sliders, but it could be that the contra is not stiff enough to keep it in the ratio that it needs uphill now. Sometimes either way works, but sometimes you have to change the contra. Once the contra is changed, then you may need to change the rollers/sliders as well to get the right setup. Isn't tuning fun? lol
Usually the belt's position in the pulleys at rest/idle is affected more by spacing and belt length than spring stiffness or roller weight unless something is way off.
@@49ccscoot it is fun lol will give you an update as well. I just happened to realize that i must have placed the contra spring ring sliders that came with the new performanCe clutch the wrong way. It usually goes at the base of the spring right in between the driver? I placed it on top of the contra lol stupid me
Update: Seems like my new performance clutch is overheating and revving too much as the bell is turning a bit bluish on the edges, what could it be? Could i sand the clutch shoe and bell?
@@ninoechavez1402 Slip will cause a lot of heat. If you see that the pads/bell are glazed, then definitely try to sand the glaze off with a rough grit paper or cloth.
Thanks man. By the way have you got a video about contra springs installation? I had a look at it since i was opening the clutch anyway. I have notice though, does the contra spring sit snug on the base plate holder? Seen some videos of the contra spring sitting on some kind of slider with ball bearings under. Mine is just a plain base plate that it can sit on to and not spinning freely. But the performance clutch i bought came with a piece of ring slider like the polini contra sliders.
2000rpm contra spring doesnt it chew on the belts? I have 1500 and belt.died after 3000km
Most of the time I stick with softer springs so it doesn't stress the belt more than it needs to or use power fighting stiff springs and heavier weights.
Hi would it ruin my c.v.t. if I ran 3 9GM. Rollers in my variator instead of the 6 ?
I would prefer to have all rollers in place. Some do use 1/2 and it may be fine.
It's a brand new variator. Will 3 rollers cause the pulley operate cocked to the side. And cause more wear on the bushing and pin ?
@@williamhaskellhaskell3162 I've only used 1/2 the rollers for quick tests before. In some variators it didn't work the same as 6 equal or at least closer weights and it others it didn't seem any different. I won't run one with 1/2 the rollers to be sure I don't get any long term effects, but it's up to you if the cost of a set of rollers or time to modify them is worth any risk.
what is that whistle sound? when speeding up in the beginning of the video
The belt.
49ccScoot i thought the gearing
@@navi7757 Some gearing does whine. I have ran a CVT before without the gearbox engaging for testing something else and it whistled so I'm pretty sure it's the belt.