I've said it before and I'll say it again you can go anywhere to get advice on hot rodding car/pickup engines but you are one of the VERY few that will give real world advice on hot rodding (porting) saws with no strings attached. Thank you Tinman for being so instructional and detailed im sure there are MANY people that have been waiting for you to come along for a long time
I couldn’t agree more. I just ported my first saw and I did it ENTIRELY from what I learned on this channel alone. I can’t speak highly enough of the timnan even though those god damn tinners take up every elevation!
Man, you're a wonderful teacher. i have a few chainsaws for my hobby collection: HomeLite Super XL Auto, Echo CS400, Echo 355T, Makita DCS6421 with bog bore , Stihl 009L, Stihl MS250, Stihl 026, and Husqvarna 545 MkII and a Husqvarna 562XP. I am going to watch all of your educational series over the next month or two and get the knowledge and confidence to do some mild porting on a few of them. I have really nice pipes for most of them already. I really like your demeanor. I can tell you are a good dude who genuinely wants to help others understand. Thanks for being generous with your knowledge.
Great video brother, thanks for taking the time to learn us. I haven't tried porting anything yet, but I want to. Videos like these are a huge help, and your wisdom about trying and failing - to learn - is much appreciated. God Bless!
Time for class today boys and girls, learn your numbers with the Tinman 👍. Thanks for taking the time to teach us how to degree a saw, with you and Iron horse we're set up for success!👍👍💪💪😁👊
Thanks for showing this. Shows me exactly what I wanted to see before porting. I understand rpm vs bottom end now. I gather reliability is the general rule of thought. Thank
Good info there TM, I machined all my tools for working on saws, made a flywheel puller and made an adaptor that screws onto the flywheel side and takes a CD that I glued a degree wheel to (a little small but it works), I bought a case splitter and that alone makes all the difference.
Tinman, I will never know when or how soon it might be before I ever port a saw, but my available saws range from Stihl 026 x2, 044, 051, 075 x2, MS660 and an Echo CS3000 Top Handle, and a couple Mac's a 200 and a 2-10 I think it is. Great advice, I like how you explain looking for the light as the piston goes into position in and out of the ports. IronHorse was the first demo I saw and he also showed that light trick.
Excellent video T. You missed your calling you could have been a elementary school teacher. Teaching all of us young want to be porters. I have bought all the tools, now just have to pick a saw. There is 63 to choose from but it will not be a favourite one first. Thanks
Good video. I have always wondered about porting. The timing wheel and your explanation is very good. About 2005 I pondered sending my engine to pro circuit but settled for milling the head and running rase gas
I can understand enough of the porting work to know, this stuff takes time, patience, and repetition to get right. I used a echo 400 for a long time before I muffler modded it but only after making it a back up to a 620p. The muffler mod and tuning with just a tach made it much better so I can see the addiction with mods. I would not want to spend weeks porting it. I will leave it to you pros that have spent the time to know what the frig they're doing. I like what your channel is about. Thanks
I have made my reeds out of feeler gauges heaps of different thickness available also on 2 stroke motor bikes finding the wright combination for different situations is a hoot good show thanks for info I will sleep alot better tonight
99* no blow down change. just a port and widen the intake a bit if it’s in the 150* range then she will be a monster that’s what I would do keep up the teaching your good at it tinman
Finom1 reasoning for my numbers is 99* keeps compression up with short blow down and big cc saws will pull it very well. squish set at 23-25 thou because of 52mm piston keeping duration shorter on intake keeps pressure up for reeds need+\- for reeds to function correctly
So do you push the piston down to BDC then install the timing wheel on the crank and place the marker at 180 degrees? Wouldn’t timing wheel to crank shaft position make a difference on the number when I’m trying to zero the wheel? Thanks for the class session!
so if im understanding correctly you set your piston and degree wheel to BDC then use the piston stop in both directions to confirm and make your adjustments to the wire until your landing at the same number both ways to confirm BDC. I skipped the piston stop and every time i would bring it down to bdc i would be out a couple degrees each time assumed it was because i was using a peice of solder but i did not confirm my degree wheel was set correctly with a piston stop after setting it up initially. cool. thanks man. I will re time the saw tonight and see if i can pull some consistant numbers.
Been watching your vids to get a handle on this... One thing I missed, does it matter if the wheel is on flywheel side vs. clutch side... In my head I am thinking that everything will be reversed number wise... But I do not know for sure.... Thanks for what you do.
You and Ironhorse did a timing video on the same day. Great video! It was easy to figure out how you explained it and showed it! Could you provide me with your email? I have a couple questions about a MS 460 and porting suggestions. Thanks again for your great video!.
Im currently rebuilding 046 magnum for a family member I wanted too port it but think I will choose something different for my first saw too port thanks for all the information I have a husky 435 xtorq I plan on porting after watching your porting series
I'm not sure You will read this, but I have an old husky that runs well, but the old nylon air filter lets a little fine dust in. is there any way to improve this? I've watched enough of your stuff that I trust what you have to say. Thank-you, Andrew.
Good info sir. You have one of my want saws there, it will be interesting to see how this one turns out. I get to blame you again, I found a little xl 12 that I haven't told the wife about yet. I want to ask you about the after market super xl12 cylinders, do you know if they are worth getting? It would be a big bore kit for my xl12. Cheers
Tin man!! Would you be interested in selling this saw? Or at least the chain brake assembly? Id kill to have it! The poulans didnt come with chain brakes here in the USA they were options only. I need a 5200 for my collection and that chain brake would be amazing on my 4200 restoration!
Really appreciate what you’re doing! Mike Acker’s site??? Can you share the name spelling or whatever so I can check that out too??? I came over from Harvey...iron horse...who was just really saying that we all needed to see all your stuff...he’s definitely right about that!!! Awesome stuff from a fellow saw junkie! 😂😂😂. If we have to have an addiction then chainsaw’s are a dang good one!!! That’s what I’m saying!!!👍😁
Tinman's saws I found it... I was hoping that there was a section or site where the actual engine timing numbers of different saw models were listed...and possibly discussed to help younger guys use as a base reference...I guess it’s still just reference the old note book for whatever models we’ve done ourselves...???
I've said it before and I'll say it again you can go anywhere to get advice on hot rodding car/pickup engines but you are one of the VERY few that will give real world advice on hot rodding (porting) saws with no strings attached. Thank you Tinman for being so instructional and detailed im sure there are MANY people that have been waiting for you to come along for a long time
I couldn’t agree more. I just ported my first saw and I did it ENTIRELY from what I learned on this channel alone. I can’t speak highly enough of the timnan even though those god damn tinners take up every elevation!
Man, you're a wonderful teacher. i have a few chainsaws for my hobby collection: HomeLite Super XL Auto, Echo CS400, Echo 355T, Makita DCS6421 with bog bore , Stihl 009L, Stihl MS250, Stihl 026, and Husqvarna 545 MkII and a Husqvarna 562XP. I am going to watch all of your educational series over the next month or two and get the knowledge and confidence to do some mild porting on a few of them. I have really nice pipes for most of them already. I really like your demeanor. I can tell you are a good dude who genuinely wants to help others understand. Thanks for being generous with your knowledge.
Now that’s a great explanation....... thank you...this information is exactly what I was looking for....keep up the great content
Still the best explanation on UA-cam! In my humble opinion! I will be referring back to this video! Thanks buddy!👍👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
What a big help this is. I’m gonna try porting my old saw.
Great video. New to timing #s. This gives me something practice to expand my hobby. Thank you for sharing with everyone.
Great video brother, thanks for taking the time to learn us. I haven't tried porting anything yet, but I want to. Videos like these are a huge help, and your wisdom about trying and failing - to learn - is much appreciated. God Bless!
I bet if your toilet was metal you’d make it flush better!! 😅😂😂 thank you as always for your awesome content and communication with us all 😄
Time for class today boys and girls, learn your numbers with the Tinman 👍. Thanks for taking the time to teach us how to degree a saw, with you and Iron horse we're set up for success!👍👍💪💪😁👊
Thank you for all the great information. Keep doing what you enjoy . Can’t wait to see the end product with this saw .
Thanks for showing this.
Shows me exactly what I wanted to see before porting.
I understand rpm vs bottom end now.
I gather reliability is the general rule of thought. Thank
I like that timing wheel..very easy to read and not too busy with other info
Good info there TM, I machined all my tools for working on saws, made a flywheel puller and made an adaptor that screws onto the flywheel side and takes a CD that I glued a degree wheel to (a little small but it works), I bought a case splitter and that alone makes all the difference.
Tinman, I will never know when or how soon it might be before I ever port a saw, but my available saws range from Stihl 026 x2, 044, 051, 075 x2, MS660 and an Echo CS3000 Top Handle, and a couple Mac's a 200 and a 2-10 I think it is. Great advice, I like how you explain looking for the light as the piston goes into position in and out of the ports. IronHorse was the first demo I saw and he also showed that light trick.
Great set up on yer timing wheel!
Great video as always! Can’t wait for more👍👍
Another great video man! Keep the wisdom flowing 🤟
Thanks for the information, I really enjoy your video's
Thanks for taking time to help us beginners out.
Incredible amount of useful information, thank you! Very happy I've found your channel. Lots of videos to catch up on now haha
Advice for life, thanks.
Excellent video T. You missed your calling you could have been a elementary school teacher. Teaching all of us young want to be porters. I have bought all the tools, now just have to pick a saw. There is 63 to choose from but it will not be a favourite one first. Thanks
First saw I ported was an 026 stihl if that helps.
It's going good, thanks for asking. You doing great still? Fantastic. Thanks for sharing your porting knowledge with us. Be safe.
Good video. I have always wondered about porting. The timing wheel and your explanation is very good. About 2005 I pondered sending my engine to pro circuit but settled for milling the head and running rase gas
I can understand enough of the porting work to know, this stuff takes time, patience, and repetition to get right. I used a echo 400 for a long time before I muffler modded it but only after making it a back up to a 620p. The muffler mod and tuning with just a tach made it much better so I can see the addiction with mods. I would not want to spend weeks porting it. I will leave it to you pros that have spent the time to know what the frig they're doing. I like what your channel is about. Thanks
I have made my reeds out of feeler gauges heaps of different thickness available also on 2 stroke motor bikes finding the wright combination for different situations is a hoot good show thanks for info I will sleep alot better tonight
Looking forward to the number's after porting. Thanks for sharing.
Man this is just what I wanted to see!
Great information Tinman.I guess it's time for me to buy a timing wheel!! No pun intended lol. Thanks for sharing
You need to make time for timing lol!!
Hi Tinman
Thanks for the really good explanation. Your channel is just great. Thank you for your effort and your time.
Best regards, Dirk
🤜🌳🌲🪵🤛
Great content Tinman! This is easy enough to understand for all of us! Great job keep these video’s coming!❤️
Amazing video ,love the way you explain stuff made easy,THANKS TINMAN keep up the good work buddy be safe
Great teaching video. Keep up the great stuff
99* no blow down change. just a port and widen the intake a bit if it’s in the 150* range then she will be a monster that’s what I would do keep up the teaching your good at it tinman
Finom1 reasoning for my numbers is 99* keeps compression up with short blow down and big cc saws will pull it very well. squish set at 23-25 thou because of 52mm piston keeping duration shorter on intake keeps pressure up for reeds need+\- for reeds to function correctly
So do you push the piston down to BDC then install the timing wheel on the crank and place the marker at 180 degrees? Wouldn’t timing wheel to crank shaft position make a difference on the number when I’m trying to zero the wheel?
Thanks for the class session!
so if im understanding correctly you set your piston and degree wheel to BDC then use the piston stop in both directions to confirm and make your adjustments to the wire until your landing at the same number both ways to confirm BDC. I skipped the piston stop and every time i would bring it down to bdc i would be out a couple degrees each time assumed it was because i was using a peice of solder but i did not confirm my degree wheel was set correctly with a piston stop after setting it up initially. cool. thanks man. I will re time the saw tonight and see if i can pull some consistant numbers.
Yes eyeball BDC and line up your degree wheel and pointer to BDC.
Then use a stop to confirm that you for sure have your wheel zeroed.
@@tinmanssaws your the man.
Super super helpful 👍
Friday night at the saw shop! Thanks man!
I'm in the sawshop right now!!
Been watching your vids to get a handle on this... One thing I missed, does it matter if the wheel is on flywheel side vs. clutch side... In my head I am thinking that everything will be reversed number wise... But I do not know for sure.... Thanks for what you do.
You can mount it on either side as long as you read it right you'll be fine.
Tinman is the Man. anyone disagree I will back him up . I'm 6'7" 295lbs of Oregon logger.
You and Ironhorse did a timing video on the same day. Great video! It was easy to figure out how you explained it and showed it! Could you provide me with your email? I have a couple questions about a MS 460 and porting suggestions. Thanks again for your great video!.
Hey Dave tinmanssaws@gmail.com
@@tinmanssaws Thanks Brother, I appreciate it!
Im currently rebuilding 046 magnum for a family member I wanted too port it but think I will choose something different for my first saw too port thanks for all the information I have a husky 435 xtorq I plan on porting after watching your porting series
What’s the difference between a piston ported saw and a read saw?
you sir are a wiz-bang and i mean that in a good way thank you for your time
Awesome videos Tinman!!! Have a question for you have you ported any of the auto tune saws something like a 550xp? Thanks
I haven't yet. But I'm going to in the near future.
Hey Tinman, do it matter witch side the timing wheel is on? Can I put it in the clutch side?
Either side works.
@@tinmanssaws awesome thanks for the quick response Tinman!
I'm not sure You will read this, but I have an old husky that runs well, but the old nylon air filter lets a little fine dust in. is there any way to improve this? I've watched enough of your stuff that I trust what you have to say. Thank-you, Andrew.
Holy sh** tinman takin us to school in the short bus!
Good info sir. You have one of my want saws there, it will be interesting to see how this one turns out. I get to blame you again, I found a little xl 12 that I haven't told the wife about yet. I want to ask you about the after market super xl12 cylinders, do you know if they are worth getting? It would be a big bore kit for my xl12. Cheers
Hey I've never used an AM cylinder for the homelites yet. I may order one to see what they look like in the future..
What size chuck? Is it 3/4
1/2"
@@tinmanssaws thank you sir. I believe I found a good wheel
Love it
Tin man!! Would you be interested in selling this saw? Or at least the chain brake assembly? Id kill to have it! The poulans didnt come with chain brakes here in the USA they were options only. I need a 5200 for my collection and that chain brake would be amazing on my 4200 restoration!
where can you buy a timing wheel? thnx!
Any auto parts store should have one.
@@tinmanssaws they are 2 stroke specific arent they? I doubt any of the auto parts around here would have them
@@GunClingingPalin yup and thanks .... was all chinese to me when i first saw it
lookin for a Poulan 3800-4000 piston & cylinder
Love mine
Really appreciate what you’re doing! Mike Acker’s site??? Can you share the name spelling or whatever so I can check that out too??? I came over from Harvey...iron horse...who was just really saying that we all needed to see all your stuff...he’s definitely right about that!!! Awesome stuff from a fellow saw junkie! 😂😂😂. If we have to have an addiction then chainsaw’s are a dang good one!!! That’s what I’m saying!!!👍😁
Hey welcome David!!
acresinternet is the site I mentioned
Tinman's saws I found it... I was hoping that there was a section or site where the actual engine timing numbers of different saw models were listed...and possibly discussed to help younger guys use as a base reference...I guess it’s still just reference the old note book for whatever models we’ve done ourselves...???
well well well
I would much rather buy a chainsaw from a Guy like this Than from some bullshit corporation.
He didn't explain how to adjust for timing
this is for installing there are other videos