There are 4 key way versions of timing on that saw. Figure that out and you will be the master. Show a video of your timing light on the flywheel timing. Get a timing light..should be about 28 Degrees
Hi Matthew, I have a Komatsu Zenoah G320AVS and it works great but when I cleaned it I noticed that the flywheel has a small crack in the middle. I wonder if he suffers heavy loads when working a saw in a tree and could he crack? I took it off to weld it. I can't find the original, so I wonder if it can be replaced with another saw? Thank you
I don't know what parts would fit, but if a flywheel is cracked I would recommend replacing it ...don't want it coming apart at 13k rpm ... best of luck
Excellent info, having issues with a 435e. Original flywheel key sheared so I got an aftermarket one. Saw wouldn't start felt like timing was off . Pulled flywheel off and noticed the timing Mark's were different. May try reindexing the flywheel similar to how you did yours. Thanks for the info!
FYI, Rome is a flexible armored electrical cable. You will often see it used on an air conditioner from the disconnect to the air conditioner. You just used 12 gauge copper wire. I use 12 gauge NM to wire 20 amp circuits. You just used a piece of 12 gauge wire in your demonstration. You could have gotten it from any 12 gauge piece of wire.
Hi, you seem to be very concise about most things during your chainsaw builds. I thought you should have bought a new key, or just make one from stock steel bar, they are not very difficult to make. As an apprentice fitter we used to make them all the time for use on textile machinery that used keyed pulleys.
Alan...there really is no need to use steel here. I use copper because of its workability and availability. In the case of chainsaws...the key really is just a positioning device....so copper can work fine as long as the nut is torqued properly...thanks for the comment
@@alanporter2694 yes....no question about that. Timing could be more precise with something more firm. I guess that i figure it to be unlikely go be precise anyway with me grinding a keyway in the flywheel by hand ..but point take.....tx!
On a 372 the fly wheel with no keyway will locate to the coil at 4* after TDC. I grind the key way out to change the timing. not an exact science but once you do it a few times you get dam good at it.
Matt, if you want "Pop" I have an ms 660 with lots of "pop.." at this point I will trade it for just about anything that runs and cranks easier than my sadistic ms 660.
Tapers hold flywheels....not keys. If you are shearing keys then something else went wrong. Make sure the flywheel nut is tight appropriately and surfaces are clean.
+Jeremy Charlton I don't see the point in advancing it... most of husky's saws don't respond well to timing advance... some of the stihls do I think, the only 3 series husky that might be better w/ advance is 385xp... but even then, not much sense in doing it... might mess something up. better to work with porting the intake and out and adjusting transfers as needed, and decking the chassis to increase compression...those are mods worthwhile
I have the little woman involved because she's a brainiack. What we can't figure out is once you advance the timing, it seems like it really doesn't matter since the fly wheel has a key way. She and I watched your other video several times. And learning a little more each time. If you turn the degree wheel a full 360 the Piston cycles twice. Hence the 2 stroke?
no, one turn of the degree wheel turns the piston from TDC, to BDC, back to TDC. so, 360 degrees. the flywheel key/and flywheel magnet and coil determine the point at which the spark plug fires in that rotation. I don't normally measure where in the rotation it fires, but I assume its before TDC somewhere, once a rotation. BANG, As the piston moves down from TDC, it grabs fuel and air under the piston and at the same time moves exhaust gasses out....further heading down the upper transfers open, and the fuel and air below the piston gets deposited above the piston. then the piston moves back up, compressing the fuel and air, and BANG .... its starts again. One stroke is down, one stroke is up ... 2 stroke. :) ignition timing and port timing are two different things. ... port timing is the point in the rotation at which fuel/air mix or exhaust gasses enter or exit the chamber. as a for instance, exhaust port timing is usually somewhere between 95-110 degrees before top dead center (or technically AFTER top dead center). The upper transfer tunnels usually open 20-25 degrees after the exhaust. ie, around 125 degrees. intake timing is around 70-80 degrees before top dead center. Once you play with a degree wheel, it'll become much more obvious than me trying to explain it. I'm a novice here, not an expert. Please keep that in mind lol
yeah, lots of things change port timing. removing the base gasket will change port timing everywhere, but by only a tiny bit. exhaust timing might go from say... 108 to 109. transfers move from 124 to 125. and the intake might go from 73 to 74. might not be noticable the changes, but you get a definite bump in compression. opening a port width wise doesn't change timing. moving the port by grinding height wise does. epoxy for an intake can raise an intake if you end up with too much duration ie, maybe an intake of 85 isn't desirable for a particular saw. so I can raise an intake back to say 78 from 85 with epoxy
keep in mind also, this type of discussion is best on one of the online forums, opeforum.com or arboristsite.com ... the guys there can help you way more than I can here :)
@@matthewolson8875 it's OK...for me, I listen very carefully to yours and other's videos... and I REALY DO APPRECIATE YOUR HELP/VIDEOS ...THANK YOU CHEERS
@@ricardopelc-wesoly3483 no problem at all ...just looking for clarification. Pretty sure I do a lot of inventing ....but whatever. Im fine as long as comments are constructive and everyone can learn something. Tx
Matt Olson DDS, you ARE NOT boring. I learn a great deal from you and afleetcommand who you recommended. One of your greatest attributes is the graciousness you extend to the ignorant.
#12 wire for the key. Genius. Piss on $300 flywheel replacement.
This is probably the best video of it's type on youtube. I'm learning a lot today!! Thanks for your explanations!!
No problem!! Happy to help!
There are 4 key way versions of timing on that saw. Figure that out and you will be the master. Show a video of your timing light on the flywheel timing. Get a timing light..should be about 28 Degrees
Wish I watched this sooner before I bought 3 keys that don't work I'll try the the copper. Thanks
Hi Matthew, I have a Komatsu Zenoah G320AVS and it works great but when I cleaned it I noticed that the flywheel has a small crack in the middle.
I wonder if he suffers heavy loads when working a saw in a tree and could he crack?
I took it off to weld it. I can't find the original, so I wonder if it can be replaced with another saw? Thank you
I don't know what parts would fit, but if a flywheel is cracked I would recommend replacing it ...don't want it coming apart at 13k rpm ... best of luck
Thank you, had it running before I finished video.
Nice!
Haha congrats on the 200 subs, and the 12k more since.
Ha! Never imagined lol... tx
Excellent info, having issues with a 435e. Original flywheel key sheared so I got an aftermarket one. Saw wouldn't start felt like timing was off . Pulled flywheel off and noticed the timing Mark's were different. May try reindexing the flywheel similar to how you did yours. Thanks for the info!
Try it....why not!
FYI, Rome is a flexible armored electrical cable. You will often see it used on an air conditioner from the disconnect to the air conditioner. You just used 12 gauge copper wire. I use 12 gauge NM to wire 20 amp circuits. You just used a piece of 12 gauge wire in your demonstration. You could have gotten it from any 12 gauge piece of wire.
yeah, it came from a piece of romex :)
Hi, you seem to be very concise about most things during your chainsaw builds. I thought you should have bought a new key, or just make one from stock steel bar, they are not very difficult to make. As an apprentice fitter we used to make them all the time for use on textile machinery that used keyed pulleys.
Alan...there really is no need to use steel here. I use copper because of its workability and availability. In the case of chainsaws...the key really is just a positioning device....so copper can work fine as long as the nut is torqued properly...thanks for the comment
Matthew Olson Hi, Okay, The main point I was trying to make was that all “play” would be removed and the positioning would be consistent. Regards Alan
@@alanporter2694 yes....no question about that. Timing could be more precise with something more firm. I guess that i figure it to be unlikely go be precise anyway with me grinding a keyway in the flywheel by hand
..but point take.....tx!
Exactly my thought.
How did you grind the oem flywheel? Which dremmel bit did u use. I have the same thing that happened to mine.
Ken Petro I honestly don't remember if I used a bit or not it is possible I just used a small file I have a set of small Nicholson files
On a 372 the fly wheel with no keyway will locate to the coil at 4* after TDC. I grind the key way out to change the timing. not an exact science but once you do it a few times you get dam good at it.
I've ground out many flywheels to make keyways. Thanks for the spec
Matt, if you want "Pop" I have an ms 660 with lots of "pop.." at this point I will trade it for just about anything that runs and cranks easier than my sadistic ms 660.
Still have 660?
I have a old husky 2100 and the key sheared off will this work on it?
It might. The key is just a positioner....the taper holds the flywheel in place
What if you're 372has so much torque it shears that pot metal Everytime u use one
Tapers hold flywheels....not keys. If you are shearing keys then something else went wrong. Make sure the flywheel nut is tight appropriately and surfaces are clean.
It is clean and nut is tight I've worked on engines for twenty five years I know basic stuff like that
should I keep timeing stock on my 394xp
+Jeremy Charlton I don't see the point in advancing it... most of husky's saws don't respond well to timing advance... some of the stihls do I think, the only 3 series husky that might be better w/ advance is 385xp... but even then, not much sense in doing it... might mess something up. better to work with porting the intake and out and adjusting transfers as needed, and decking the chassis to increase compression...those are mods worthwhile
that's what I have seen to
what about the stator that goes behind the flywheel?
that is on a g model...heated handles. I actually have shot that video. maybe edit and post next week
o thanks for telling me because I thought my saw was missing that! I couldn't figure out what it was for but now I know
welcome! i'm going to try to have a video on heated handles soon, we'll see...stay tuned!
that's good ideal with cutting a line to see the timeing
is the flywheel nut left hand thread?? or regular right hand thread?
dive2663225 the flywheel nut is indeed right hand thread regular thread
aghh thanks, I can see so little thread
Like watching grass grow
Yup!
U have helped me a lot ty
Thank you Matt
We can talk tomorrow. I’m tired of this thing for today
THANK U SO MUCH. IO HAVE THIS VERY PROBLEM ORDERED 3RD FLYWHALL 4 19 24, HJOPE FOR THE BEST. THANHS
I have the little woman involved because she's a brainiack. What we can't figure out is once you advance the timing, it seems like it really doesn't matter since the fly wheel has a key way. She and I watched your other video several times. And learning a little more each time. If you turn the degree wheel a full 360 the Piston cycles twice. Hence the 2 stroke?
no, one turn of the degree wheel turns the piston from TDC, to BDC, back to TDC. so, 360 degrees. the flywheel key/and flywheel magnet and coil determine the point at which the spark plug fires in that rotation. I don't normally measure where in the rotation it fires, but I assume its before TDC somewhere, once a rotation. BANG, As the piston moves down from TDC, it grabs fuel and air under the piston and at the same time moves exhaust gasses out....further heading down the upper transfers open, and the fuel and air below the piston gets deposited above the piston. then the piston moves back up, compressing the fuel and air, and BANG .... its starts again. One stroke is down, one stroke is up ... 2 stroke. :)
ignition timing and port timing are two different things. ... port timing is the point in the rotation at which fuel/air mix or exhaust gasses enter or exit the chamber. as a for instance, exhaust port timing is usually somewhere between 95-110 degrees before top dead center (or technically AFTER top dead center). The upper transfer tunnels usually open 20-25 degrees after the exhaust. ie, around 125 degrees. intake timing is around 70-80 degrees before top dead center. Once you play with a degree wheel, it'll become much more obvious than me trying to explain it. I'm a novice here, not an expert. Please keep that in mind lol
Matthew Olson I'm a beginner. 😀 So to change port timing would be thinner gasket, shave bottom of jug, open ports ect?
yeah, lots of things change port timing. removing the base gasket will change port timing everywhere, but by only a tiny bit. exhaust timing might go from say... 108 to 109. transfers move from 124 to 125. and the intake might go from 73 to 74. might not be noticable the changes, but you get a definite bump in compression. opening a port width wise doesn't change timing. moving the port by grinding height wise does. epoxy for an intake can raise an intake if you end up with too much duration ie, maybe an intake of 85 isn't desirable for a particular saw. so I can raise an intake back to say 78 from 85 with epoxy
keep in mind also, this type of discussion is best on one of the online forums, opeforum.com or arboristsite.com ... the guys there can help you way more than I can here :)
4:54 aftermarket cylinder...or flywheel
Flywheel hehe
@@matthewolson8875 it's OK...for me, I listen very carefully to yours and other's videos...
and I REALY DO APPRECIATE YOUR HELP/VIDEOS ...THANK YOU
CHEERS
I cut a keyway and install a key
Yes, too much talk and not enough inventing. Good bye.
not enough inventing?
@@matthewolson8875 Before inventing you have to talk, if you don't listen you won't invent.
@@ricardopelc-wesoly3483 I'm still not sure what you guys are saying. You want me to be more innovative?
@@matthewolson8875 Sorry , i am replying to Pauls Comment and not passing judgement on your behalf, actually found your blog beneficial.
@@ricardopelc-wesoly3483 no problem at all ...just looking for clarification. Pretty sure I do a lot of inventing ....but whatever. Im fine as long as comments are constructive and everyone can learn something. Tx
dude,.....is this video about your hands. had to stop watching after a minute. too much bla bla
gregrysoule1 you do make a good point I am pretty boring
Matt Olson DDS, you ARE NOT boring. I learn a great deal from you and afleetcommand who you recommended. One of your greatest attributes is the graciousness you extend to the ignorant.