I made my Burromax faster than a Surron! (Fardriver Install How-To)
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- Here it is. The video we've all been waiting for. Spent the weekend installing a Fardriver 72300 into the Burromax. The bike is running beautifully, AND, all of the stock functions still work! Currently topping out at 48mph, but i've left some performance on the table for the sake of lower motor temps.
Video timestamps:
Below is a list of the parts used:
Fardriver 72300 Controller: www.hotpaxx.co...
Speedometer: www.aliexpress...
Waterproof Automotive Connectors: a.co/d/b6bHIm2
Wire Stripper: a.co/d/bLfS3fC
Crimper: a.co/d/hJwlD5n
Lug Connectors: a.co/d/aCQ8yDr
Wire Lever-Connectors: a.co/d/2V1nkK8
Overall the install is pretty simple if you've wired a Fardriver before.
The tricky part here was getting the headlight, taillight, brake light, horn, etc working. The most important piece of the puzzle is the "main" wiring harness off the stock controller. This is the insulated harness containing a dozen or so thin wires of various colors. Match up the colors the way I did on the video and you'll be in good shape.
As a quick reference, here are the wire's from the "main" harness and where they go:
Green to Yellow wire from the taillight (this is the brake signal wire)
Brown to Red wire from the taillight (this is the what turns on the taillight when you hit the light switch)
Pink to Thick Green wire from the horn (plug the horn's ground wire into the "ground splitter" we made)
Orange to Ignition splitter (this is the splitter that we connected to the thick orange wire that comes off the keyswitch wiring)
Brown to Red wire from the taillight (this is the "always on" wire)
The rest of the wires are not being used at this time.
To wire the display/speedometer:
Red to Positive splitter (this is the splitter that we connected to the thick orange wire that comes off the keyswitch wiring
Black to Ground splitter
Yellow to Purple wire from the fardriver harness (This is the analog speed wire. You'll have to switch the display to "phase line speed measurement" mode)
Display settings in the Fardriver app are as follows:
Speed Pulses: 3
SpdPulseNum: 10460
SpeedoMeter: 2-
AnalogSpeedCoeff: 100000RP
CAN: None
CAN Detect: 150ms
CAN Baud: 0=250K
TorqueCoeff: 748
Step: 1-0.9ms
Stop: 2-124ms
Special Frame: 3
The rest of the display settings can stay at default until you get to the wheel width/ratio. Those should look like:
WheelWidth: 120
WheelRatio: 70
WheelR: 10
GearRatio: 6
Play around with these, every bike will be a little different, but this will get you in the right ballpark. - Авто та транспорт
Best upgrade ever! I did one about a year ago, posted in the FB group.
Solid upgrade bro!! Fardriver ALWAYS for the win!!!
48Mph is pretty good they need a Burromax upgrade with that speed.
They just dropped some new models for
Pre order
@ thanks I appreciate it I kinda wish they didn’t price the bikes so high I would probably get a a RTR or a mantis X and save money. But I do like their bikes .
I’m sold. Doing this upgrade asap.
Nice bike dude. I just got one a couple days ago. Its fun and torquey but I want to make it faster. Subscribed!
SICK
Nice video
That’s a nice upgrade. I have to keep this video save for when I get mine. How much better is the 1600 over the 1000?
@@rlenoxIII not sure if it’s better, just a little bigger, and a little extra range.
@@CringeMoto Thank you
i’m running fardriver with 70 amps it wheelies no problem !
Great videos! How did you get rid of the deceleration crunchy noise on FarDriver settings?
I’m also doing the Magura upgrades. Make it stop!
@@ericstock4869 thank you! For the crunchiness, increase the start/mid/max KI to 8, 16, and 24. If you message me on instagram I can send you the rest of my settings
Dude this is awesome! I’m commenting before finishing the video but do you know the battery continuous amps and then the max Amps? I have a spare Votol em100 controller and stuff and seriously thinking about putting it in my 1600. All I need to know is battery specs. Cheers 🍻
Also I feel like I could 3D print a spacer to fill that gap from lifting the controller cover. There’s a lot of guys that have made this swap!
@@user-hb2ve3md6c the gap is there because I zip tied the controller to the controller cover mounting hole. Once I secure it properly it’ll look like factory, everything fits underneath. As for the battery amps, I ran it at 100 line, 300 phasefor a while and it was fine. Couple different people on Facebook tell me they’ve been running 100 line amps long-term, so that’s probably the limit of what’s safe.
@@CringeMoto Thanks man, I appreciate the info. That’s crazy then, the battery must have a decent BMS then to support up to 100A continuous.
Thanks for the upload - I just ordered a Fardriver for my Super73. Would you recommend that speedometer? I need a small speedometer on my bike I’ll only run something small. If possible please do a video on how to install the speedometer to the Fardriver and any other information regarding- would be much appreciated. Congrats on the smooth build
@@knowEgo Can’t go wrong for $12 shipped. I have some additional details in the description. Your settings on the super73 will be different but a little trial and error will get you there. The purple wire on the Fardriver connects to the yellow hall wire on the display. Black and red on the display go to positive and negative from the splitters. You’ll have to put the display into “phase line speed measurement mode” by holding the M button and then turning on power. You navigate the menu by short clicks and adjust settings by long click. Idk why the aliexpress listing doesn’t include this info… PO3 is the setting you change on the display, the default is “hall speed measurement”
@@CringeMoto thanks so much for the information!
I’m going to order this display this week and my controller comes on Thursday so I’ll be in the lab trying to get that bad boy running…I’m content with just doing a few test runs before it gets too cold! I live in the Midwest so no riding during the fall/winter months for me. Lol.
Again appreciate your help and don’t be surprised if I’m bugging you with questions in the comment section 😂
Could you screen shot your settings
Nice! How many phase amps are you pushing?
@@bj97301 80 line and 240 phase. Accidentally ran for like 20 minutes at 100/300 when my settings didn’t save… was pretty wild
@@CringeMotogot it. Keep me posted. V1 kit is rated for about 80/160. Worse case is you may need a belt sooner.
You're running 80A battery? I thought the battery was 60A. Has it not triggered the BMS?
@@DescartesRenegade yeah been running 80 line amps on the stock battery for a while. Even ran 100 amps for a little bit. BMS must be beefier than what they advertise
@CringeMoto was 100A too much for the motor?
@@DescartesRenegade it was fine for about an hour until I realized. Momentum Watts told me he ran his for 9 months at 100A. It only burned out once he took it mudding
@@CringeMoto it seems like the battery might not have a BMS in it :/. I charged it with a variable DC charger at almost 60v and it kept going. Proper BMS should've cut off charging before hitting 59v. This would explain why the battery can discharge so much higher than 60A.
Next Video in 30 business days
@@MrJLiebert real
How did u adjust to mph and get speedometer accurate?
@@mycryptolife1292 display settings are in the description
Hi there where can I buy a far driver ?
@@arceecorso I got mine from hotpaxx. Link in description
Speedo on Ali is the 3wire option?
@@IDKaboutallthat I got the 4 wire so I could add auxiliary lighting, but the 3 wire will work fine.
@@CringeMoto that’s a good idea, that seems like it’d be a good spot for a start up led to connect to
Can you drop the link for the controller
@@Txvjerry it’s all in the description
Ok, when we add a bigger controller we typically up size our power wires sir. You may be ok though. Obviously it works but it could work better. Less resistance equals better efficiency, so more speed and range. Check if your wires are getting hot. Warm is ok, hot would indicate higher resistance. If you have a thermal camera that is obviously a great way to check your connections. The little cell phone attached thermal cans are real cheap now. You have a channel I bet you could hit up Topdon or Infraray and get one for free.
So you made a perfectly good back up controller a doorstop for several inches of wire in it. Just order some wire next time. That's just wasteful. I know you wasted money on those giant waterproof connectors but still.
So you messed up the wiring and still posted the footage of it? People have really short attention span. I'm writing you a couple of short paragraphs and you are probably thinking that's a lot right? See what I'm saying. Just a little blurb on the screen, a little text overlay or whatever would have been nice.
Your power wires and your phase wires need to be sized properly for the amount of amperage you are using. Wire ampacity, it's a real thing. You don't have to buy bigger wires, though they do look better, you can supplement with smaller wires. Try to keep the lengths as close as you can to your current wires. Yes electricity takes the path of least resistance but it also goes wherever it can. Electricity is biased towards the path of least resistance. Real copper wires are about 30% more efficient than copper clad aluminum ones which are prolific in these Chinese controllers.
You could burn out your motor or you could add a sensor since your new controller actually supports that sir. Use the motor in another project rather than murder it which I'm going to tell you these controllers can easily do. The warning for not having a temp sensor is turned on from the factory. That is a hint and half for you right there. What typically happens is the heat creeos up the phase wires from the motor and then insulation on the wires melts and then your controller is in dead short across your phases. The phases are all connected together anyway so that's normal but what isn't normal is usually just one is getting the high side output at a time. This can end very badly for your controller that is supposedly protected as well. You might want to not be so casual about killing a motor. It may be wise to place a little less faith in the quality assurance of these devices. I've had to repair these Fardrivers right out of the fancy box. Cheap wires. Though I own some of these controllers I am not impressed with the quality of them. But you can get a 680 delivered for under $200 so there's that. They are of course very optimistic with their numbers. lol
@@zentechnician it wouldn’t be a CringeMoto video if there wasn’t an element of poor decision making and danger involved. I 100% agree this is not the ideal way to do things, and I appreciate the write up. It’s a cheap way to get more performance for a couple hours of your time. At the end of the day if something burns up, a new motor is $150 and the controller is $130 delivered, so I can replace those a couple times and still be under the cost of a good 3shul/Trampa/Votol controller
@@CringeMotoit is cringe for sure. Name checks out. Oh yeah I don't think you ever said what size the controller was. They use that same green case on lots of them. 360 or ?