I used some of your settings on rpm percentage. Really opened up my 3000w hub motor. Still pulling hard at 45mph. I couldn't test top speed because of the wind today. Thanks again for letting me know about the brown speed wire. It took awhile to get the speedometer calibrate to my bbs02 speed sensor. I'm sure my recumbent could hit 50 easily.
Do you have anything on fardriver with hub motors? Im running it on my fiido q1 and im planning to retire from YYK controller shifting over to Fardriver which is kinda like a huge jump because im searching for efficiency and fine tune as YYK doesnt have the settings that i want,
You can still use the basic idea I show on how to get a good top speed with ratios In speed. Just keep ypur "an" set to 0 under pid parameters, and set your pole pairs to what your motor is. Do the autolearn afterwards and set the line and phase amps to your motor/battery specs or where you want them.
Change your KI settings in PID accordingly, but try not to have too far a spread . That's how you tune , but be careful not to blow it up! The KI is needed to taylor to your motor type . It helped me to make a pull monster out of my footscooter. Turning up numbers is down ,and down is up. Highly recommend you learn a little PID settings first to get an overview. Great work for presentation!
My ki settings are fine how they are, i could lower the numbers and tighten them up to make more low end torque at the sacrifice of top speed, but for this motor and the torque it produces theres no point. Most people want to hit that high top speed so changing ki isnt worth it. Ive been playing with pid parameters for quite a while now to understand what they do. For people learning they just need to understand where to set the an for the least amount of resistance and a smooth sounding motor, then adjust phase offset as needed. Theres a reason fardriver locked out kp so people wouldnt blow things up. Playing around with your ki is pretty low risk.
@@EmxBrandon I personally think it's important to set that to hub motor design, or mid motor design. I had a heck of a time getting it to stay cool ,and keep running for 2 hub motors Was better, but one motor for some reason was a nightmare to keep running. It always got too hot real fast 🔥 🥵 . Now it's a over powered dream scooter. Mine are set to 5 low ,mid 7, 11 high just a little above cooled em down it seemed
Not long ago it was the general concensus that an 0 was meant for hub and 16 for mid drive. Its been proven wrong alot lately. The mototec motors, qs and my1020s run great at an16 and now we have the b1 motor and ec4p motors running at 0 or mine(b1) is best at 6. If that number is wrong and someone new cant feel the rsistance and heat build up it will for sure cause issues. So its definitely important to find the correct number. As for the ki ive set mine to 4 6 8, and a few other combos and they definitely bring out the torque at low end but falls on its face at top end and doesnt have the steam anymore to push those higher rpms. Spreading them out similarly to like yours or just stock from factory will spread that torque through low mid and high giving you that consistent pull all the way through till your weak kicks in. But yeah ive tuned a bunch of fardrivers on different motors and they all want something different. But for this video about the bombmoto motor the tune im sharing is the perfect balance of torque and top speed! As far as heat under normal riding conditions the motor stays at a good temp, also why im running it at 210 phase, any more and it starts getting toasty. But in this video doing back to back speed pulls and not letting it cool down for over an hour, it most certainly got hot but it handled it like it was nothing! Super impressive for a stock motor!
@EmxBrandon can I ask what ga wires? All them amps need a little room to breath? 8ga? I'm using 4ga welding cables to the front controller, but it has a long run ,and I intend 120amp just to the front motor , and 360amp for the rear . 2ga but it's a short run for the back motor . Larger wires,and motors are supposed to be more efficient . BTW sorry. You seem to know a lot more of your doughnuts than the video explains. That's great to know ! Glad things are working so good for the builds ! Maybe one day we can get together and build flying air scooter ??
@Vmaxfodder are you asking about battery leads or phase wire thickness? For battery leads you can google how many amps you wanna run and see what the recommended guage would be, same as connectors rated amps. The shorter the battery lead the better as youll get less voltage sag. For phase wires definitely the bigger you can put on their the less heat in the wires and less heat transfer into the motor, but at some point the motor will only take so much until it starts getting heat soaked regardless of thicker phase wires. The next round of b1's are supposed to have thicker phase wires so there may be a possibility of running higher phase amps 🤞 But yeah its hard to explain everything in detail without making a 2 hours long video. Plus i suck at remembering all the little details and put it into spoken words on the spot lol. And no need to be sorry! Convos like this are great for comparing real world tuning and what we feel. I learn alot from what others change and come up with to dial in their rides and then try and replicate it and see what works for mine! And others can read and try things we talk about to see what works best for their setups aswell. Not sure what a flying air scooter is but sign me up! That would definitely be awesome to do a collab one of these days!
My 1020s kunray do 8k no problem at 120v and 75a and has never failed. Thats with a kelly and no weak control. Can cruise bike path speeds at 1-2a. They can be work horses if you push them. Def not limited to 4-5-6k.
Hi bro. Loving your work. Just wanted to run this past you. Im in the UK and have basically the same b1 frame and motor. Mine came with a 1200w 48v motor stock but when I upgraded the controller to a votol em50sp. I blew the hall sensors trying g to work out the pole pairs ect as at that time was not aware it was same or similar motor to the b1 stock motor. I found a replacment one but was slightly larger😊 rated at 1800w 48v. Pole pairs are defo 4 the same. It's just the hall angle I'm not 100% as the votol self lern was not working. If I have the angle set to 60 the torque is unreal an. Will do about 41mph with my settings and pulls like a train up any hill. Iv noticed your hall angle with the self learn is - 120? Is this the rite setting for the motor because when I set my angle to 120 it's less torque low end? My motors not overheating with 60angle or with 120 angle. Does it matter?
I couldint find any info on the motor iv got anywhere. Had to investigate through how the motor looks. The b1 has no branding. A 2000w 60v motor is available too in UK
For some reason, when I hit top speed aswell as a speed of around 25 my bike kinda bumps every second or so, do yk any fixes? Not a controller or smth issue
@int53185 no problem! Yeah they just recently changed the 72300, 450, & 680 to the brown wire for some reason. I use the light blue on my 72330 and 72360 lol pain in the butt for sure!
Interesting...so in order to get more top speed, one should reduce the rpm range from 100% to a lower number in the high rpm range under parameters? I assumed that setting all the rpm settings to 100% would give the most top speed?? Im referring to around the 10:00 mark
Correct, what i like to do is set my ratios in speed to 100% all the way till my motors rated speed. Once i figure out what the motor taps out at, say 5000rpm, then ill start to taper that 100% down slowly like around 7 to 8% each rpm section. Lowering the number will slowly bring in field weakening allowing more rpm from the motor. Also starting the taper about 1k rpm before the motors rated rpm will help bring the taper in harder once you get passed that rated rpm and possibly give you more speed. 100% all the way through just means your getting 100% of the amps with no weak.
@MrDeceptacon88 set all your ratios in speed to 100 and go for a top speed run, make sure to record your graph page or keep and eye on where your rpm tops out at. Im not familiar with hub motors but im guessing somewhere around 1600 to 2k rpm. Since its a hub motor at 16pp your ratios in speed only go up by 200rpm or something so say your hub gives up at 1600rpm start your taper at 1400 and taper till you run out. Under the first section youll see weak response, probably keep that at 1 and then weak character you can play with it from fast to middle. I really notice the shift in weak percentage at certain rpm and to fix that ill make my taper not as steep. So if i drop from 100 to 92 and i notice its not smooth ill change it to 94 that way the weak kicking in is smooth. Its really just alot of playing around until you get it dialed in.
It's a dkd, and it's paired with a fardriver using the one-line communication wire which is needed for the speedo. Only certain controllers will work with the dkd.
Hallo i have a question!! Lets say you are cruising with 50% of ur throtle and it is about half your max speed lets say 40mph as example.what amps are u getting at a cruising state?is it the amps u set at maxphasecur?or a smaller number?
@@EmxBrandon aa ok thanx!nop im still waiting for my new kit to come and my old is locked i cant see our change anything on this controller..im.just gathering information so ill be ready for the tuning!your video helped me a lot!
@apostolospetridis6038 glad I could help! Just remember the tune is for the bombmoto motor. So make sure you get your pid parameters right for the motor your using and amp parameters for the battery you have!
@apostolospetridis6038 nope, autolearn just detects the motor phase angles and phase offset. The rest is on you to change AN setting, pole pairs, line and phase current, ratios in speed, all that stuff.
In this situation field weakening is an inefficient way of making more rpm and its creating more heat. Your best bet would to be just turn the amps down.
And I’m soo worried about spending the money then trying to do the tuning but I like the screen if it says mph and everything is accurate.. I was just going to grab a up grade kit from electro and co and I’ve been hearing about shrimp batteries and chi-batteries but I think that might be just for surround haven’t looked at their page in a while
As long as you follow my vids step by step, there is nothing to worry about! Yes the screen says mph and is accurate, i also have a video dialing that in. As far as the battery i would either get a b1 battery from bomb or go with amorge! The shrimp batterys are low amp discharge for what the b1 needs and also wayy to big to fit, chi only makes surron batterys as far as i know, and electro&co wants an arm and a leg for a small pack.
What’s the height difference or quality compared to the Moto tec.. if you are sponsored in any type of way by then you don’t have to answer lol but if not honest as possible
Height is basically the same, the b1 is just a tinyyy bit taller by maybe a ¼in. As far as quality vs the mototec its gonna be the same. All the bikes from china are either assembled by the same people or share alot of the same parts. The b1 is just closer to a real pitbike the way its set up, and the suspension is wayyy better than the mototec! And of course the beefier motor will walk all over the mototec aswell.
Hi mate I have a 5000watt watt rear hub motor with a 72v 40ah bms 100a what's the max kW I can pull with the battery I have I'm waiting on my fardriver controller to come should be here in a weeks time seen a video with a 5000watt and he's running 25kw but I'm not sure if my battery can handle it
If its a 100 amp discharge battery then you can run 7,200 watts. The math is voltage x amps to get your watts. If you wanted to run 25kw youd need 350 amp discharge.
I didn't buy a kit I wired up a fardriver 72450 myself. But if your in need I'll have plug and play kits available very soon! Email emxbrandon@gmail.com if your interested!
@volpieya1895 did you try to update it anyways? It could be the new update lol fardriver is always messing around with something, definitely one of their downfalls. Try deleting the app completely and re downloading. But im pretty sure if you havent bound your controller yet thats the issue.
I have my jk bms set to 120 amps out. 24s 8p I have 2 fardriver 84530s both set to 65 line and 300 phaze amp. Crank up the line amps and play with PID to tune . My hot motor went away . Runs cool now
Skip to 34:10 to copy my tune! 70 line amps if you wanna stay at 5kw or 100 line amps for 7kw!
I used some of your settings on rpm percentage. Really opened up my 3000w hub motor. Still pulling hard at 45mph. I couldn't test top speed because of the wind today. Thanks again for letting me know about the brown speed wire. It took awhile to get the speedometer calibrate to my bbs02 speed sensor. I'm sure my recumbent could hit 50 easily.
Nice! Glad i could be some help! Yeah speedos are a pain in the ass to get dialed, but hope you clear 50mph easy!
Appreciate the content man
No problem brother!
doin the emx lords work
😆🤘
thanks for the content man . really cool stuff
No prob! Appreciate that!
great explanation and video!
Appreciate that!
Do you have anything on fardriver with hub motors? Im running it on my fiido q1 and im planning to retire from YYK controller shifting over to Fardriver which is kinda like a huge jump because im searching for efficiency and fine tune as YYK doesnt have the settings that i want,
You can still use the basic idea I show on how to get a good top speed with ratios In speed. Just keep ypur "an" set to 0 under pid parameters, and set your pole pairs to what your motor is. Do the autolearn afterwards and set the line and phase amps to your motor/battery specs or where you want them.
Change your KI settings in PID accordingly, but try not to have too far a spread . That's how you tune , but be careful not to blow it up! The KI is needed to taylor to your motor type . It helped me to make a pull monster out of my footscooter. Turning up numbers is down ,and down is up. Highly recommend you learn a little PID settings first to get an overview. Great work for presentation!
My ki settings are fine how they are, i could lower the numbers and tighten them up to make more low end torque at the sacrifice of top speed, but for this motor and the torque it produces theres no point. Most people want to hit that high top speed so changing ki isnt worth it. Ive been playing with pid parameters for quite a while now to understand what they do. For people learning they just need to understand where to set the an for the least amount of resistance and a smooth sounding motor, then adjust phase offset as needed. Theres a reason fardriver locked out kp so people wouldnt blow things up. Playing around with your ki is pretty low risk.
@@EmxBrandon I personally think it's important to set that to hub motor design, or mid motor design. I had a heck of a time getting it to stay cool ,and keep running for 2 hub motors Was better, but one motor for some reason was a nightmare to keep running. It always got too hot real fast 🔥 🥵 . Now it's a over powered dream scooter. Mine are set to 5 low ,mid 7, 11 high just a little above cooled em down it seemed
Not long ago it was the general concensus that an 0 was meant for hub and 16 for mid drive. Its been proven wrong alot lately. The mototec motors, qs and my1020s run great at an16 and now we have the b1 motor and ec4p motors running at 0 or mine(b1) is best at 6. If that number is wrong and someone new cant feel the rsistance and heat build up it will for sure cause issues. So its definitely important to find the correct number. As for the ki ive set mine to 4 6 8, and a few other combos and they definitely bring out the torque at low end but falls on its face at top end and doesnt have the steam anymore to push those higher rpms. Spreading them out similarly to like yours or just stock from factory will spread that torque through low mid and high giving you that consistent pull all the way through till your weak kicks in. But yeah ive tuned a bunch of fardrivers on different motors and they all want something different. But for this video about the bombmoto motor the tune im sharing is the perfect balance of torque and top speed! As far as heat under normal riding conditions the motor stays at a good temp, also why im running it at 210 phase, any more and it starts getting toasty. But in this video doing back to back speed pulls and not letting it cool down for over an hour, it most certainly got hot but it handled it like it was nothing! Super impressive for a stock motor!
@EmxBrandon can I ask what ga wires? All them amps need a little room to breath? 8ga? I'm using 4ga welding cables to the front controller, but it has a long run ,and I intend 120amp just to the front motor , and 360amp for the rear . 2ga but it's a short run for the back motor . Larger wires,and motors are supposed to be more efficient . BTW sorry. You seem to know a lot more of your doughnuts than the video explains. That's great to know ! Glad things are working so good for the builds ! Maybe one day we can get together and build flying air scooter ??
@Vmaxfodder are you asking about battery leads or phase wire thickness? For battery leads you can google how many amps you wanna run and see what the recommended guage would be, same as connectors rated amps. The shorter the battery lead the better as youll get less voltage sag. For phase wires definitely the bigger you can put on their the less heat in the wires and less heat transfer into the motor, but at some point the motor will only take so much until it starts getting heat soaked regardless of thicker phase wires. The next round of b1's are supposed to have thicker phase wires so there may be a possibility of running higher phase amps 🤞
But yeah its hard to explain everything in detail without making a 2 hours long video. Plus i suck at remembering all the little details and put it into spoken words on the spot lol. And no need to be sorry! Convos like this are great for comparing real world tuning and what we feel. I learn alot from what others change and come up with to dial in their rides and then try and replicate it and see what works for mine! And others can read and try things we talk about to see what works best for their setups aswell.
Not sure what a flying air scooter is but sign me up! That would definitely be awesome to do a collab one of these days!
My 1020s kunray do 8k no problem at 120v and 75a and has never failed. Thats with a kelly and no weak control. Can cruise bike path speeds at 1-2a. They can be work horses if you push them. Def not limited to 4-5-6k.
Hi bro. Loving your work. Just wanted to run this past you. Im in the UK and have basically the same b1 frame and motor. Mine came with a 1200w 48v motor stock but when I upgraded the controller to a votol em50sp. I blew the hall sensors trying g to work out the pole pairs ect as at that time was not aware it was same or similar motor to the b1 stock motor. I found a replacment one but was slightly larger😊 rated at 1800w 48v. Pole pairs are defo 4 the same. It's just the hall angle I'm not 100% as the votol self lern was not working. If I have the angle set to 60 the torque is unreal an. Will do about 41mph with my settings and pulls like a train up any hill. Iv noticed your hall angle with the self learn is - 120? Is this the rite setting for the motor because when I set my angle to 120 it's less torque low end? My motors not overheating with 60angle or with 120 angle. Does it matter?
I couldint find any info on the motor iv got anywhere. Had to investigate through how the motor looks. The b1 has no branding. A 2000w 60v motor is available too in UK
My motors not making any strange sounds either with the two different angle settings
For some reason, when I hit top speed aswell as a speed of around 25 my bike kinda bumps every second or so, do yk any fixes? Not a controller or smth issue
I never got my dkd display to read mph or amps. I have the nd72300. Great video.
Did you use the solid brown wire and chamge byte option to 6? I have a dkd video i did recently you can check out
@@EmxBrandonI was pulling my hair out. Thanks the brown wire worked.
@int53185 no problem! Yeah they just recently changed the 72300, 450, & 680 to the brown wire for some reason. I use the light blue on my 72330 and 72360 lol pain in the butt for sure!
Interesting...so in order to get more top speed, one should reduce the rpm range from 100% to a lower number in the high rpm range under parameters?
I assumed that setting all the rpm settings to 100% would give the most top speed?? Im referring to around the 10:00 mark
Correct, what i like to do is set my ratios in speed to 100% all the way till my motors rated speed. Once i figure out what the motor taps out at, say 5000rpm, then ill start to taper that 100% down slowly like around 7 to 8% each rpm section. Lowering the number will slowly bring in field weakening allowing more rpm from the motor. Also starting the taper about 1k rpm before the motors rated rpm will help bring the taper in harder once you get passed that rated rpm and possibly give you more speed. 100% all the way through just means your getting 100% of the amps with no weak.
@EmxBrandon ok thanks
What tou suggest i start tapering at with a qs273 hub motor? I have 16 pole pairs
@MrDeceptacon88 set all your ratios in speed to 100 and go for a top speed run, make sure to record your graph page or keep and eye on where your rpm tops out at. Im not familiar with hub motors but im guessing somewhere around 1600 to 2k rpm. Since its a hub motor at 16pp your ratios in speed only go up by 200rpm or something so say your hub gives up at 1600rpm start your taper at 1400 and taper till you run out. Under the first section youll see weak response, probably keep that at 1 and then weak character you can play with it from fast to middle. I really notice the shift in weak percentage at certain rpm and to fix that ill make my taper not as steep. So if i drop from 100 to 92 and i notice its not smooth ill change it to 94 that way the weak kicking in is smooth. Its really just alot of playing around until you get it dialed in.
@EmxBrandon yes thx again. Its just hard to keep on eye on the dashboard page while going so fast
@MrDeceptacon88 agreed, i like to hit screen record and tuck in in my legs that way i can stop and review after the pull!
How did u get the speedometer to work? Im trying to figure out how to run my break lights and speedometer on my burromax
It's a dkd, and it's paired with a fardriver using the one-line communication wire which is needed for the speedo. Only certain controllers will work with the dkd.
yo been watching your vids for a bit but can you help me out please i dont know to get the upgrades on the mototec
Whatcha need to know qnd what kinda upgrades? I have a few how to videos with links and info in the description
Do you think the throttle responvie is better than on the 40$ controllers
Oh yeah 100x better
Hallo i have a question!! Lets say you are cruising with 50% of ur throtle and it is about half your max speed lets say 40mph as example.what amps are u getting at a cruising state?is it the amps u set at maxphasecur?or a smaller number?
It would indeed be a lesser number. If you have a fardriver you can screen record the graph page while you ride to get an exact number!
@@EmxBrandon aa ok thanx!nop im still waiting for my new kit to come and my old is locked i cant see our change anything on this controller..im.just gathering information so ill be ready for the tuning!your video helped me a lot!
@apostolospetridis6038 glad I could help! Just remember the tune is for the bombmoto motor. So make sure you get your pid parameters right for the motor your using and amp parameters for the battery you have!
@@EmxBrandon i thought theese parametres being set on auto learn?am i wrong?
@apostolospetridis6038 nope, autolearn just detects the motor phase angles and phase offset. The rest is on you to change AN setting, pole pairs, line and phase current, ratios in speed, all that stuff.
tapper down on rpm isnt also a way to protect motor fromg etting max ampere continiously?
In this situation field weakening is an inefficient way of making more rpm and its creating more heat. Your best bet would to be just turn the amps down.
Oh ok so its not protection at all!thnx for rhe answer!
@apostolospetridis6038 yeah if anything turn down the phase amps so the motor isn't heating up as much.
And I’m soo worried about spending the money then trying to do the tuning but I like the screen if it says mph and everything is accurate.. I was just going to grab a up grade kit from electro and co and I’ve been hearing about shrimp batteries and chi-batteries but I think that might be just for surround haven’t looked at their page in a while
As long as you follow my vids step by step, there is nothing to worry about! Yes the screen says mph and is accurate, i also have a video dialing that in. As far as the battery i would either get a b1 battery from bomb or go with amorge! The shrimp batterys are low amp discharge for what the b1 needs and also wayy to big to fit, chi only makes surron batterys as far as i know, and electro&co wants an arm and a leg for a small pack.
What’s the height difference or quality compared to the Moto tec.. if you are sponsored in any type of way by then you don’t have to answer lol but if not honest as possible
Height is basically the same, the b1 is just a tinyyy bit taller by maybe a ¼in. As far as quality vs the mototec its gonna be the same. All the bikes from china are either assembled by the same people or share alot of the same parts. The b1 is just closer to a real pitbike the way its set up, and the suspension is wayyy better than the mototec! And of course the beefier motor will walk all over the mototec aswell.
Hi mate I have a 5000watt watt rear hub motor with a 72v 40ah bms 100a what's the max kW I can pull with the battery I have I'm waiting on my fardriver controller to come should be here in a weeks time seen a video with a 5000watt and he's running 25kw but I'm not sure if my battery can handle it
If its a 100 amp discharge battery then you can run 7,200 watts. The math is voltage x amps to get your watts. If you wanted to run 25kw youd need 350 amp discharge.
What controller kit did you buy?
I didn't buy a kit I wired up a fardriver 72450 myself. But if your in need I'll have plug and play kits available very soon! Email emxbrandon@gmail.com if your interested!
when i click save and turn off my bike the settings just reset. i have to autolearn on my settings to make it permanent. wby?
Have you updated your app lately? I haven't updated mine since the new binding process, so that may be the issue.
@@EmxBrandon i guess mine is on auto update. could the new update be the cause?
@volpieya1895 did you try to update it anyways? It could be the new update lol fardriver is always messing around with something, definitely one of their downfalls. Try deleting the app completely and re downloading. But im pretty sure if you havent bound your controller yet thats the issue.
Hey man my start throttle is slow asf
My temp sensor is the problem, when I try to change it to none on the app it does not change
Have you bound the controller to your phone?
@@EmxBrandon what does that mean?
@@EmxBrandon on the app I bound it I think
Should say bound on the comm page.
@@EmxBrandon I bound it but what I do on the app still won’t change
I have my jk bms set to 120 amps out. 24s 8p I have 2 fardriver 84530s both set to 65 line and 300 phaze amp. Crank up the line amps and play with PID to tune . My hot motor went away . Runs cool now
Which app is it?
Fardriver app!
Thanks!@@EmxBrandon
I can't even get it to detect the Bluetooth, let alone start beeping...
Did you wire it yourself or get a plug and play kit? Sounds like the controller isnt turning on. Do you see the red led on the bt dongle?
Fardriver is the best controller? There is an opinion that he is better than Kelly
Definitely not the best but performance seems better than kelly. I've never used a kelly before though.