After like 50 failed attempts at a Stanley cup, I used your 3mm trick with the focus, and I finally got a good result. Just in time for Christmas. Thank you SO much
A small tip for rubbing alcohol, that I use for 3D printing cleaning, put the IPA in a spritzer bottle. Not really about waste, since you are using the 70%, but it is easier to control. Also, I have dry skin, so yeah, the more control the better or I find new cracks.
@GavinPickin I've had mine about a month, it's my first laser. Trying to decide if I'm ready for lightburn and then which version of lightburn, it may just be a marketing thing on amazon
Thank you!!!! for your videos, I had a light green cup laying around. So I grabbed a Bear Playing a guitar vector and just engraved it with great success using your settings.
I just did some light pink tumblers for a sorority. It left so much soot that I thought I had ruined them. I found some KaBoom under the kitchen sink and tried it… all I did was spray it on, wait a few seconds, and wiped it down with a magic eraser. Looked like it came from the factory! This was after using bar keepers and going through two whole magic erasers on about 5 or 6 tumblers. I had 30 more to do and they all came out perfect using KaBoom.
Love the video. It really helped me set up the RA2. But I did have a couple of questions. You mentioned the amazing 65mm hack to ensure it’s at the same place from top every time. But how do you make sure it’s at the same distance from the handle every time. I have order of 50 Stanley with a companies logo on it but I am scared I won’t get them all in the same exact spot. Would love if you could share how to position it at the same place everytime.
I’m surprised more people don’t use the RA2 accessory tool. Not over expensive but has 2 features that makes projects a lot easier. One is a removable magnetic attachment which emits a solid green laser beam which gives you the exact centre of the item being worked on and it also has an adjuster to ensure the part being lasered is parallel to the bed. A lot easier than using packing material. By the way I’ve just replaced my motherboard on the S1 partly using your video.
@@TheClackShack forgot you always use jig but those who don’t have to pack out the end of the RA2 pro to get the tumbler level. The new accessory has an adjuster together with the laser beam. Watch all your videos,- very very helpful, thanks
Do you have a video going over the differences and affects of offsetting the focus and why you do it? Edit: You did answer this a bit but if you have a video showing the differences at different offsets that would be great to see.
Thanks for this video and the 3mm tip. You made another video about tumblers which I cannot find again regarding the colors of tumblers that you has "less" problems engraving. Can you tell me the colors or point me to that video.
Darker colors engrave with less heat. Lighter colors need more. White and light blue are the most stubborn. Usually a 10% difference is dark, medium and light colors. Just search my videos for tumblers
Going to have to watch this on my way home tonight. I’m just going to get a chance this weekend to put your mirror tut to use. I purchased your S1 jig kit dose the mirror template come in the bundle?
If you're engraving the entire tumbler, can you use the curve engraving feature in xxx with the r2 pro? Some tumblers have a steep slope on the bottom. Thanks for what you do, very helpful.
Thanks for the great video. Did my 1st yeti tumbler with alot of info from your videos. It turned out pretty good a few more lines then my test run had. I ran 100lpc for the test run but then changed it to 200lpc for the logo run. For your out of focus could you just let the S1 run it's auto focus and then just manually substract 3 mm from the focus? Keep the S1 video's coming!!!
How do you figure out what to charge for this kind of job? Do you pay for shipping back to the customer, etc, etc? Thanks for making these videos. Always helpful.
I really enjoy your videos and learn a lot from them. I noticed that you pour your rubbing acohol on the tumblers to clean them. Is there a reason you don't use a spray bottle get the alcohol on the tumbler?
Thank you for you informative videos i have learned a bunch from you. I have s S1 but 20W. i have been engraving tumblers and they come out Ok. Not very shiny. It look like have a slight gold color. Any idea what that can be from? Thanks in advanced.
@@TheClackShack *I don’t have auto focus on mine. Monport was talking to me about a Fiber Laser after I did the review on the Haotian Raycus 30W Fiber Laser they Ghosted me. Now I know why!!! Lol!!!*
Being new to lasers and all to do with them I really appreciate your videos and Sunday night live feeds. I have the S1. My question to you is… you use Lightburn and export your files to XCS can you make those files in XCS or do you need another software to do them? Thanks for another awesome video.
Have you come up with any viable solutions on making the S1 safe to use without glasses when using the riser base? I contacted xTool to see if there is a fix in work to stop the door from leaking light. Waiting on a response. I did install the foam strips on the doors but of course it’s not perfect.
Hmm… I’m using the riser base that works with the conveyor. When the door is closed, there is a tiny gap (1/16 in) that leaks the laser light. XTool told me that if I use my riser base, my whole system is now a class 4 laser and I have to use glasses. But without the riser base it is class 1. Maybe they just meaning that it’s class 4 when the door is wide open and I’m actually using the conveyor? That would make sense to me.
Any tips on doing full wraps on tumblers? I was wondering if I can remove the module nozzle and do a full wrap without having to bend the tabs? I did some measurements and it seems that it will clear the tabs without hitting the laser lens cover.
@@TheClackShack yes that just the thing I just got my settings on point to accommodate for the mid section of the cup. Not trying to waste another Stanley for testing. So what if I remove the nozzle will that work? I have the air assist as well. Just thought of removing the nozzle but not sure if that ok to run that way
This video is so helpful!! Quick question; if I’m making a full wrap tumbler, I would normally run the distance at the middle of the slant in the cup. Do you change the focus there as well or do you use that distance/focus?
If you had to buy a laser now. What would you purchase? I have a 5 watt AtomStack. I am just a hobbyist but I have a customer that wants 150 48" rulers. Appreciate any info you can give me!!! Thanks Bill Henson
That I understand. When, let's say doing table placement cards in a jig, you hit start it does 25 but how does it work when you have to put in a new tumbler, are you creating 25 different files?
After like 50 failed attempts at a Stanley cup, I used your 3mm trick with the focus, and I finally got a good result. Just in time for Christmas. Thank you SO much
Glad it helped. I find it makes it engrave better too.. Merry Christmas
A small tip for rubbing alcohol, that I use for 3D printing cleaning, put the IPA in a spritzer bottle. Not really about waste, since you are using the 70%, but it is easier to control. Also, I have dry skin, so yeah, the more control the better or I find new cracks.
It will help locate the cracks for sure.. Good tip.
Yup, my very first tumbler ever came out perfect. Thank you sir!!! And even bought and used your RA2 pro jig!
Glad it worked out for ya. I have good luck with them…. Enjoy
You are saving me! Loving your videos. One month into this and the S1 is my first laser.
Good choice… have fun
Thanks for doing an S1 video, all the information you put out helps allot.
Very welcome, glad you like it
I just got my S1, so trying to absorb as much as I can from this channel :)
@GavinPickin I've had mine about a month, it's my first laser. Trying to decide if I'm ready for lightburn and then which version of lightburn, it may just be a marketing thing on amazon
Thanks!
Very welcome… Thanks for
Thank you!!!! for your videos, I had a light green cup laying around. So I grabbed a Bear Playing a guitar vector and just engraved it with great success using your settings.
That is awesome!
Thanks for the tips guys! Very helpful. Cheers!
Our pleasure!
Great Video Clack! I'm looking forward to trying this on my S1!
Cool, have fun
Awesome! Gives me a better understanding of how you use the ra 2 pro set-up in the S1. Thank you 🙏🏼
That’s all my secrets… lol. Very welcome
@@TheClackShack I'll guard them closely 😁
I just did some light pink tumblers for a sorority. It left so much soot that I thought I had ruined them. I found some KaBoom under the kitchen sink and tried it… all I did was spray it on, wait a few seconds, and wiped it down with a magic eraser. Looked like it came from the factory! This was after using bar keepers and going through two whole magic erasers on about 5 or 6 tumblers. I had 30 more to do and they all came out perfect using KaBoom.
Cool
Love the video. It really helped me set up the RA2. But I did have a couple of questions. You mentioned the amazing 65mm hack to ensure it’s at the same place from top every time. But how do you make sure it’s at the same distance from the handle every time. I have order of 50 Stanley with a companies logo on it but I am scared I won’t get them all in the same exact spot.
Would love if you could share how to position it at the same place everytime.
Starting with the handle in the same place every time. The handle is basically the center line in the layout.
I bought the drop down kit for my MK2 XW so it will now easily accommodate big tumblers.
I don't have that... lol
I was just asking this question on the xTool FB S1 group, YESTERDAY!
I try to make content that is needed. Glad it helps....
awesome job you are the best
Nah, I do ok though. Thanks
I’m surprised more people don’t use the RA2 accessory tool. Not over expensive but has 2 features that makes projects a lot easier. One is a removable magnetic attachment which emits a solid green laser beam which gives you the exact centre of the item being worked on and it also has an adjuster to ensure the part being lasered is parallel to the bed. A lot easier than using packing material. By the way I’ve just replaced my motherboard on the S1 partly using your video.
It works well for me. Not sure what you mean by using packaging material but I jig mine. Glad it helped.
@@TheClackShack forgot you always use jig but those who don’t have to pack out the end of the RA2 pro to get the tumbler level. The new accessory has an adjuster together with the laser beam. Watch all your videos,- very very helpful, thanks
@@allanbourner4569 cool, Thanks
Thank you so very much!
You're very welcome!
Do you have a video going over the differences and affects of offsetting the focus and why you do it? Edit: You did answer this a bit but if you have a video showing the differences at different offsets that would be great to see.
The finish is better and has less visible lines in the engrave.
Thanks for this video and the 3mm tip. You made another video about tumblers which I cannot find again regarding the colors of tumblers that you has "less" problems engraving. Can you tell me the colors or point me to that video.
Darker colors engrave with less heat. Lighter colors need more. White and light blue are the most stubborn. Usually a 10% difference is dark, medium and light colors. Just search my videos for tumblers
Going to have to watch this on my way home tonight. I’m just going to get a chance this weekend to put your mirror tut to use. I purchased your S1 jig kit dose the mirror template come in the bundle?
I did include the jig set up it in the S1 kit. The frame is a separate file.
If you're engraving the entire tumbler, can you use the curve engraving feature in xxx with the r2 pro? Some tumblers have a steep slope on the bottom. Thanks for what you do, very helpful.
Lightburn has cylinder correction software that I use.
Thanks for the great video. Did my 1st yeti tumbler with alot of info from your videos. It turned out pretty good a few more lines then my test run had. I ran 100lpc for the test run but then changed it to 200lpc for the logo run. For your out of focus could you just let the S1 run it's auto focus and then just manually substract 3 mm from the focus? Keep the S1 video's coming!!!
Could probably but I just trick it with a ruler.
How do you figure out what to charge for this kind of job? Do you pay for shipping back to the customer, etc, etc? Thanks for making these videos. Always helpful.
This is a local customer, they drop off and pick up. I do a per unit charge
I really enjoy your videos and learn a lot from them. I noticed that you pour your rubbing acohol on the tumblers to clean them. Is there a reason you don't use a spray bottle get the alcohol on the tumbler?
I am lazy and haven’t got a bottle yet… lol
Thank you for you informative videos i have learned a bunch from you. I have s S1 but 20W. i have been engraving tumblers and they come out Ok. Not very shiny. It look like have a slight gold color. Any idea what that can be from? Thanks in advanced.
If the steel is changing color, too hot. Stainless will turn from a brassy to grey to near black if heated enough with a diode.
@@TheClackShack next time I engrave some tumblers I will back off on the power. Thank you.
Instead of pouring the rubbing alcohol can we use just a very wet cloth with the rubbing alcohol?
You could.. I don’t
*Is that a Haotian Raycus 30W Fiber Laser in the Background?*
No, its a Monport GA 30 watt MOPA with auto focus.... lol.. It works pretty well so far. bit.ly/3xSQPvv
@@TheClackShack
*It’s just rebranded. It’s the same laser.*
*They didn’t even change the sticker. Lol*
*Nice Laser!!!*
@@TheClackShack
*I don’t have auto focus on mine. Monport was talking to me about a Fiber Laser after I did the review on the Haotian Raycus 30W Fiber Laser they Ghosted me. Now I know why!!! Lol!!!*
My XCS doesn't have a vector button ...... Does the US have a different XCS than Canada does?
Not sure, the button only shows up when a graphic is selected
GREAT video...I have the S1 10w & 2 IR with the RA2...what settings do you think?...plus I dont have riser can i use anything (wood ) to raise it?
Much slower with a 10 watt. Testing needed. Not sure what you are raising.
@@TheClackShack thanks raising my S1 without the xtool 200 riser...is there another way ? thanks
Being new to lasers and all to do with them I really appreciate your videos and Sunday night live feeds. I have the S1. My question to you is… you use Lightburn and export your files to XCS can you make those files in XCS or do you need another software to do them? Thanks for another awesome video.
You can do some design in XCS, it is improving but I prefer designing in Lightburn.
I’m planning on trying Lightburn if I get the F1 do I need to get the galvo license for Lightburn as well?
Have you come up with any viable solutions on making the S1 safe to use without glasses when using the riser base? I contacted xTool to see if there is a fix in work to stop the door from leaking light. Waiting on a response. I did install the foam strips on the doors but of course it’s not perfect.
I haven't had any issues with mine.
Hmm… I’m using the riser base that works with the conveyor. When the door is closed, there is a tiny gap (1/16 in) that leaks the laser light. XTool told me that if I use my riser base, my whole system is now a class 4 laser and I have to use glasses. But without the riser base it is class 1. Maybe they just meaning that it’s class 4 when the door is wide open and I’m actually using the conveyor? That would make sense to me.
You can try and use some black electrical tape or get some door jam foam strips that are a little thicker.
Any tips on doing full wraps on tumblers? I was wondering if I can remove the module nozzle and do a full wrap without having to bend the tabs? I did some measurements and it seems that it will clear the tabs without hitting the laser lens cover.
You can raise the machine out of focus and get above most of the handle connectors. Run a test to see what the results look like
@@TheClackShack yes that just the thing I just got my settings on point to accommodate for the mid section of the cup. Not trying to waste another Stanley for testing. So what if I remove the nozzle will that work? I have the air assist as well. Just thought of removing the nozzle but not sure if that ok to run that way
@@ronr179 It should run, make sure you have a spare lens handy.
@@TheClackShack yes I do I’ll give it try on my next cup thanks 🙏 for your time
This video is so helpful!! Quick question; if I’m making a full wrap tumbler, I would normally run the distance at the middle of the slant in the cup. Do you change the focus there as well or do you use that distance/focus?
I usually try to level the surface best I can. If that isn’t possible, split the focus in the middle
If you had to buy a laser now. What would you purchase? I have a 5 watt AtomStack. I am just a hobbyist but I have a customer that wants 150 48" rulers. Appreciate any info you can give me!!! Thanks Bill Henson
That size project is going to limit your selection. Not many hobby machines capable of a 48 inch project without print and cut
Does anyone know of a machine that will make a 48" ruler?? I guess I will have to go to an industrial machine
Do you run higher power on the lighter colors.
Yes, covered that in the video
@@TheClackShack Thanks I think I am running to much power or too slow doing black at 60% and 145 and white at 80% and 100. Have a d1 pro 40watt.
@@albertchavez7090 if its brassy, turn down the heat
Would you do that ruler trick with a full wrap?
Any tumbler engraved
@@TheClackShack i guess what I should have asked is with the tapered tumblers with a full wrap
@@RelikGem620 when dealing with tapering, you need to find an average focus or use curved object on the s1
@@TheClackShack thank you
have you ever used variable text when engraving tumblers
Not on tumblers but during other jobs.
thanks, it must be different setting it up because engraving tumblers is stop and go. I cannot find a video on YT showing how to do it
@@TTC1940 variable text just changes the text, rest is the same
That I understand. When, let's say doing table placement cards in a jig, you hit start it does 25 but how does it work when you have to put in a new tumbler, are you creating 25 different files?
I think you can advance the text using the "variable text" tab in the lightburn screen. Just advance it each burn
I'm using the 20w do you think your power settings would be the same?
No, gonna need more power. Probably about 20 percent more
Hey guys
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