As a fellow moonboard addict, I really appreciate this type of content. Dialing in the microbeta is one of the more enjoyable aspects of the board. Watching you go through the projecting process is super helpful too cause it helps me think about the details of my own projects. Keep it up, Boss!
Bending your arm only at the latter half of the movement being better is explained by the force direction on the hold. When you were bending it earlier the force was almost downward in a pinch grip, which is harder to hold. When u waited to bend only towards the latter half of the movement, you were putting force against flatter surface/ crimpy grip in a southwest direction. So timing was the key to send the move, you had to get the timing right of when to pull from the hold at the correct body position. Good job anyway, this boulder seems a good choice to teach force direction application, timing and body position.
one more thing, I would try to balance all my weight on the left foot and use the right foot more as a smear. Maybe putting more weight towards the left side of the body would ease the movement transition
Perhaps there's an issue where you're not getting enough foot tension if you pull on the move before you're ready? Since the hold is angled, you won't get the maximal exertion until you're fully on the left side of the hold. Once you're fully on the left side of the hold, you pull on the hold and twist the knee to get more of that toe pressure. I noticed your left leg was shaking a lot on the yellow foot chip, so maybe that's a sign that you weren't weighting it very much, so keeping your arm straight allowed you to get in a more favorable position for both your hand angle and your foot. wdyt?
What do you mean? The moonboard has climbs that are marked as benchmarks. There will always be some variance in the difficulty, even when they're selected as benchmarks.
@@ciso344 ideally, but grades are subjective. No 2 problems will be the same difficulty, so unless you want only one benchmark for each grade, they'll need to vary a bit. I think they're chosen more by the quality of the moves, as a benchmark of a good problem in that grade.
As a fellow moonboard addict, I really appreciate this type of content. Dialing in the microbeta is one of the more enjoyable aspects of the board. Watching you go through the projecting process is super helpful too cause it helps me think about the details of my own projects. Keep it up, Boss!
Please make more of these moonboard problem breakdown videos! My favorite climbing content on UA-cam. So much learned 🙏
my day is enlightened when boss posts a new yt video
Bending your arm only at the latter half of the movement being better is explained by the force direction on the hold. When you were bending it earlier the force was almost downward in a pinch grip, which is harder to hold. When u waited to bend only towards the latter half of the movement, you were putting force against flatter surface/ crimpy grip in a southwest direction. So timing was the key to send the move, you had to get the timing right of when to pull from the hold at the correct body position. Good job anyway, this boulder seems a good choice to teach force direction application, timing and body position.
one more thing, I would try to balance all my weight on the left foot and use the right foot more as a smear. Maybe putting more weight towards the left side of the body would ease the movement transition
I love your videos dude! Super insightful, I'm going to try these problems, expecting to be shit on.
I literally use the exact same exercise mentioned at 2:15 on the Tension board 2!😜Need to hit up Cliffs of Id next year so we can session on the MB!!!
Perhaps there's an issue where you're not getting enough foot tension if you pull on the move before you're ready? Since the hold is angled, you won't get the maximal exertion until you're fully on the left side of the hold. Once you're fully on the left side of the hold, you pull on the hold and twist the knee to get more of that toe pressure. I noticed your left leg was shaking a lot on the yellow foot chip, so maybe that's a sign that you weren't weighting it very much, so keeping your arm straight allowed you to get in a more favorable position for both your hand angle and your foot. wdyt?
Not a benchmark if it’s ‘a hard v5 or v6’
What do you mean? The moonboard has climbs that are marked as benchmarks. There will always be some variance in the difficulty, even when they're selected as benchmarks.
Ummm nearly all the moonboard benchmarks feel hard for the grade. Pretty sure that’s why they get bm’d. no disputing the grade
@@TheTonVeron just thinking logically here. Shouldn’t a bench mark be the average? Not hard and not easy?
@@ciso344 ideally, but grades are subjective. No 2 problems will be the same difficulty, so unless you want only one benchmark for each grade, they'll need to vary a bit. I think they're chosen more by the quality of the moves, as a benchmark of a good problem in that grade.
The in-depth moonboard content we need 👏🏼👏🏼bravo