How to Train the 20mm Half-Crimp ONE ARM HANG (and actually get it)
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- This video goes over my tips and progression of learning the one arm hang on the 20mm edge. This includes what I learned from months of trial and error. I also explain the importance of form and various theories that make executing the one arm hang easier.
Products mentioned in video (Affiliate Links)
Powerblock (5-50lb): amzn.to/49kl0s3
Powerblock (50-70lb extension): amzn.to/49kl0s3
Arm Shark Wrist Wrench (less recommended): amzn.to/3IZICre
Generic Wrist Wrench (more recommended): amzn.to/3VEOHkr
Block I really like: amzn.to/3VGhntc
- MY FILMING GEAR (Affiliate Links)-
GoPro 8 (Moonboard Videos): amzn.to/3e1iw5Q
Sony ZV-1: amzn.to/43QpmpB
Lumix G9 (stock lens): amzn.to/3U4g3iJ
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - BS5
01:30 - Intro
02:57 - Background
05:27 - Arm Lift
11:30 - Weight/Diet
14:52 - Feeling Strong
15:40 - Injury
17:58 - Transition to Hangs
18:43 - Rule #1
20:24 - Rule #2
21:31 - Rule #3
24:01 - Wrist Curls
26:32 - Training Summarized
28:08 - Offloading Exercises
31:16 - Outro
Disclaimer: I am not a personal trainer and only intend to share my personal experience. Exercises listed in this video are not suitable for everyone and may result in injury. By performing any of the exercises in this video, you assume ALL risks of injury for doing so. I am not responsible or liable for any injury or loss you may sustain. - Спорт
UPDATES:
At 19:43, I mention "You want your dip points to be neutral or flexed... (applies more for smaller edges i.e. 15mm). A more correct way I would rephrase this is you want to constantly provide flexion force at the DIP joint to keep the DIP joint neutral; you'll find that you will need to do this more and more with smaller edges and heavier loads).
It has come to my attention after experimenting further with wrist curls and talking about the exercise with others that I would not advise doing them with your forearm on the table as shown at 25:06 . This is because doing so would pin the wrist in a vulnerable position when curling heavy weight, and many would feel a lot of pressure on the wrist (usually ulnar aspect). This can potentially cause wrist cracking and instability down the line, especially with those who've had injuries or strains to the ulnar wrist before. Simply do them as cable curls like 25:47 or stand-alone like 24:05 . It won't be as "clean" because you can compensate with your biceps, but it puts much less pressure on the wrist as a finisher forearm flexor exercise. Also play around with the angle to find which angle puts the least strain on the wrist.
It's interesting you've mentioned that, i've had a TFCC injury recently and was prescribed wrist curls as part of the rehab process. I use my leg to support my arm whilst doing them and generally don't experience any popping or cracking apart from on the first rep. I used to experience a lot of cracking when i first started performing the exercise but have worked up to being able to rep out 45lb dumbbells with no discomfort. Wrist curls done in this fashion are also a very popular exercise in arm wrestling but they do train the wrist in many different ways so it may not be a fair comparison.
Also I wanted to ask, do you not think the rolling handle performs a different action to the wrist shark device? Seems like the rolling handle relies more on pure crushing/pinch strength whilst the wrist shark requires more flexor/extensor engagement depending on which way you're using it. I've recently bought a rolling handle but was thinking maybe I need a wrist wrench instead.
I found the best way to train your wrist flexors in isolation is armwrestling style. With a cable setup and adjustable bench at about 70-75 degree incline for support. Low stress on the joints and you can really push hard.
If you search "developing a world class hook part 4 cupping" by 201 armwrestling you will see how it can be performed
@@PIXEL7atm wrist wrench is a lot better for targetting your wrist flexors. Chris drummond armwrestling made a great video explaining the differences between the wrench and rolling handles. I feel like its only good for isometric support and pinch training. I tried wrist curls with rolling handles but i dont feel the pressure on my wrist as well as a wrist wrench. Dumbbells with fat grip feel better than rolling handle for wrist exercises
These videos are such much more informational than all the other shitty "pro climber shares finger strength secrets" videos
The most complete and sincere insight on the topic in internet. Thank you!
10/10 would not recommend skipping chapters. I definitely learned more from the mistakes made along the way.
this video is easily V20/5.16 in terms of content, quality, insight, conciseness,… no one in the entire climbing media has made a useful vid such this. Huge thanks, and hope you make great progress in your climbing and work. ✋🏼
Only a climber would rate a video in V
Good to hear from you again, Boss. Thank you for sharing your story and your always detailed observations.
Have fun! 😊
Christmas came by early with a new upload. Thank you for sharing this and all you work you have made in previous videos as well
This is by far the best video I've seen on the topic, thanks! it's surprising to me how little content there is out there relating to how to achieve the one arm crimp hang, vs something like one arm pull-up where one can find endless videos on the topic. also very helpful to see the information relating to cross-body information training or whatever its called, as I've had to slow down my right hand finger training because of some TFCC pain.
First time on this channel, got this one recommended, likely bacause I just ordered my first own hangboard an wanted to gain some more insights and ideas - this video was absolutely great! Not only do you seem to be a really chill guy I could listen to all day, but what I am listening to is also so well packed with great information and useful tips. This video was the first of many to REALLY get me excited about my finger strength journey, I loved every second of it. So thanks for that and keep up the good work!
OG is back!!! Solid editing and commentary as always
Thanks for showing the ups and downs of training! It really goes to show how there’s no “one plan fits all”
I really liked how you adjusted when noticing no progress💪🏽
Wow, what a great video! Super useful and motivating
thi continues to be one of the most resourceful channels on climbing training!! your videos on the one arm helped me aachieve it on both arms (+credit to pete whiitttaker) cant wait to get my first 20mm 1 arm haalf crimp
Its amazing that you're a resident + v9 climber (from a nursing student + v7 climber). Great that you mentioned eating disorders, sleep quality and burnout. Super nice in-depth diary/trial like video. huge congrats too!
Quality content dude. Definitely can’t keep up with your training load, but I really appreciate you sharing all your insights.
I’ve been getting some pip joint pain in the middle finger. Swollen a bit in the joint. Seems like a really good idea to isolate the pinky and focus on activating the index finger.
Thanks for all the hard work, both in your training and in making this video. Genuinely appreciate it!!
🤙
The comment on tenodesis grasp at 19:47 is uniquely insightful! I've wondered about half-crimp form regarding the hand and wrist position...a new focal point for my future training efforts. Thanks for sharing!
Shortly after the comment on weak index finger and correlations with ring finger capsulitis...my left hand to a T...shorter index (because of T?)....This video is getting saved to the vault - it's at or beyond the level of some of the best posts on r/climbharder.
Insanely good video, especially for people like me who started hang boarding a month ago and still don't really know what's best for strength gains
awesome videos man!! I would also love to see your date timings with the progress, it would be really interesting to see the time frame and how was you improve and gains you got
Currently rehabbing finger injuries, very helpful vid thank you
Very very good vidéo. Very nice to talk about all the mistakes. Thx buddy
Thanks for the deep insight. I think we are at a similar plateau and i want to focus more on my pinky and index finger as well as on the concentric forearm excercise
Great video. It was weird to see how we arrived down the same path (just started arm lifts and added wrist curls last month). This video feels like a time travel cheat code to save myself from experimenting with other exercises.
Just started building up my finger strength from a couple finger injuries, so this is perfect timing
Boss is the boss, thanks again man, this video comes just at the right time for me. Cheers!
Wow this is such a good video. I recently started trying to get more finger training and it wasn't until a friend pointed it out that I realized that I was chisel gripping with my index. Going to be more cognizant of that now
Thanks for the video, I have been dealing with some finger injuries and since then feel like my strenght hasn't come back, will definelty try out those workouts :)
Thanks for this very detailed and clear video. It is my favorite on the topic and I've watched a lot of UA-cam on climbing training. I just had rotator cuff repair and biceps tenodesis on my right arm, so I've decided that my training goal in the next seven months until I can climb again will be the left hand 20 mm hang following your protocol. I'm 63 and have a ways to go, so it's a long shot. But it would be nice to have one strong grip (and it's not my dominant hand, so it won't last), I'll amuse myself a bit, and there's that weird training effect on injured limbs from training the other side. Thanks again!
Just a quick note to say I love your content. Going to incorporate your advice into my own training program. Hope it's going to work ;)
I was inspired by your vid to get a tension block because it looks better at isolating individual fingers than the one I have (offcut) so I started to do individual fingers with very light weights. It is quite interesting how their tendancy is to uncurl into a drag. While a drag is effective for me I am trying to be more conscientious about maintaining good form as mentioned in the vid to see if that leads to some measurable improvement in my hangs/lifts.
On the topic of comparing one arm hangs to one arm block lifts I was recently able to do a one arm hang on the 20mm edge, however the weeks leading up to this during which I only trained block lifts I was never even close to lifting my bodyweight which just goes to show how different the movements actually are when it comes to finger strength and how they don't really transfer.
Another really great video. Thanks Boss!
wow great in depth video. thanks so much for the info.
I’ve been watching this video 3 times. Its so insightful truly.
What an inspiring video! It's really amazing to see the progression over such a long period of time. Can you comment on how to adapt this routine if you are a weekend warrior (e.g. climb outside sat/sun)?
Amazing video Boss🙌 very inspirational
This video is pure Gold!
You easily make the best most in depth videos on specific aspects of climbing. This is the type of video you'd expect to see behind a paywall. Thank you!
Awesome video, so much detail.
boss is slowly becoming an amazing climber! cant wait to see you go pro!
re: weight & diet - good on you for acknowledging and sharing your experience
Late night uploads, keep it up dude. Great stuff.
Loving your long-format training for climbing videos :)
Great video as usual! Been doing lifts since last year but need a concrete number of sets and reps like you provided. Going to add the wrist strength and pinky exercises as well thanks!
Great video, I have landed on a similar combo of workouts but haven't done the pinky isolation so I'll have to try them. In terms of your current protocol: I found using an 18mm edge and an 8mm edge to be the optimal size (rather than 20mm and 10mm) to avoid skin issues, obviously depending on your finger anatomy. So I'd definitely recommend finding/making/modifying edges for arm lifts. Secondly, I would try performing your wrist curls in a similar way that you would do arm lifts, meaning from the floor and curling from neutral to engaged. That's why I find the asymmetrical devices (like your arm shark) super helpful because you can get a pretty heavy force without a huge amount of weight. I just found that the supported (horizontal) curls gave me some wrist aggravation just due to the pressure of the support on the wrist itself. Anyway, great work, I've found the arm lifting finger workouts to be the most sustainable over time so keep it up!
this video is so crazy spot on because im just now almost 100% after a left ringer finger injury
As a 41-year-old aspiring climbing coach with a decade or two of strength training experience (and, who once considered being an orthopedic surgeon😷), well done! I had theorized that it might be the case, but it was nice to learn that the cross-education effect is a concept that has been validated and named. So, thanks!👍 Also, your rules of form for the half-crimp block pulls are very good.😀 And, I'm sure you agree that they mostly apply to half-crimping in general, so I'd just like to add that a cue some people might find helpful in learning the strict half-crimp is to think of "mashing your fingers together, side to side." One should strive to get that same side-to-side compressed feeling in their fingertips that is felt when they bring in the thumb for a less severe version of the full crimp (i.e. where the thumb and index finger are pressed together, but not overlapping). It's also the same feeling that one experiences in their back three when they chisel their index finger. However, as Boss makes clear, we want all four fingers contributing to their max. So, echoing Boss here, I strongly advise that trainees focus on form first, and form always.
Thanks man. That's a really good report. Will definetly take something home from it!
About the splits, I had chance once to use tension block and it is really positive and sharp, you can lift much higher weight than on the other lifting 20 mm edges which are more rounded and where weight is on the neutral angle (in tension block it moves edge forward a little bit so there is the biggest pressure at the end of the edge) and they don't cause splits (e.g. IURA warm up single; avail in the UE).
Supercool and informative. Glad this has worked for you. I switched from max hangs to lifting last year just because they are so much more convenient but I tend to use them as a warm up to a MB or KB session. and do 20/15mm front 4, front 3 and back 3 sets of 6 going up in 5kg increments (20-30 kg), so not even close to one arm hanging. Would be good to know how you applied the strength to MB and outdoor boulder projects and how and when you noticed the difference.
Veeery nice video! Well done! 🖐🏻
Great video. Your training videos are always quality. Question: (when) do you do normal gym bouldering instead of moonboard?
Great video, thank you very much for taking the time to make it.
Only one question, what is the rest time between sets and reps.?
This is such a great video. It is very relatable to many people. Great great great video.
Thank you so much for your feedback, we re curently doing exactly the same kind of training and all these informations will help us a lot!
Always loved the total honesty of your video, showing us the whole process, even failures, not just the flashy outcome. GJ man!
wow… thanks for this video, will reference it as I develop my own training protocol
Most insightful video on armlifting for climbing to date even if it is anecdotal. I'm on a similar journey as you and have come to some of the exact same conclusions as you. However, I used singles and not reps to push my strenght gains. I have done finger iso training a couple of times, but will now incoporate them in since I believe the index and pinky contribute a significant amount to the one arm hang in half crimp. Thanks for sharing your journey. Is your PR in armlifting the same as your PR with the Tindeq Progessor? Hope to see way more content on this subject.
Regarding calluses, did you try to cut them off and sand them down early?
I'm doing this regularly as soon as I feel skin builds up and I don't even have issues like you.
Great video, quality material. Will def add stuff to my routine.
Great video. Thanks Boss!
did you also try some kind of an unlevel edge to include pinkie in half-crimp position? Like the metacarp unlevel edge or Ergo Edge from Tension or sth similar?
awesome video btw
huge fan. keep it up
Really great video
sick thanks dude!
Masterpiece.
Your videos are always great. wow your fingers are so much stronger than they need to be you should be climbing way harder than v10
Definitely doesn't seem like finger strength is the limiting factor!
Amazing video!!!
Hey man amazing video! Seems like the way we approach climbing and progression is very similar so I always look forward to your insight.
What I was wondering was since your training plan is basically moonboard only in terms of climbing, do you think focusing on this one specific style of climbing is hurting your progress at all, or that you’re missing out on other climbing styles/movement patterns?
Thank you, sick video definitely gonna incorporate a lot of what you shared! I had a similar learning arc w/ the front lever where it took improving my dead lift to get the activation in my lumbar to keep my butt up but once I had that connection front levers became my training exercise itself similar to what you said w/ moving to 1 hangs and away from lifts. re: finger splits have you done a parallel 'deep dive' into skin maintenance? I find regular minor shaving w/ razor blades and/or sanding of the problem areas (for me my index finger) effectively eliminates the crease callous splits i'm particularly prone to get.
That painkiller anecdote is interesting - Last year (and I can remember other instances, too) I went to the wall with a cold. Having taken ibuprofen to relieve symptoms, I found myself feeling REALLY strong to my suprise. And then, wouldn't you know it, POP. I figured it might be as aresult of climbing whilst the body was dealing with other stressors but perhaps it was due to having a impeded sense of how hard I was pulling...
awesome video subscribed !
i do think you missed a pretty importend aspect and that is dead hang one arm (full grip). scapula one arm reps (with full grip).
Dude if you can one arm a 15mm and only climb v10 fingers are the last thing you need to train.
Under rated comment
I totally agree. I climbed a lot of V12 but can barely hang 20mm one arm ( maybe 4 seconds). But to be fair he climbed V10 on moonboard V9 is the hardest moon board climb I ever did I'm just to week for climbing harder on that board while outdoor climbing I don't need to be that strong most of the time its enough to climb more efficient or find really good beta. So Yes I see that 15mm one arm hang is enough to climb up to maybe 14 outdoors but for moonboard in not sure for v11 and V12 benchmarks you just have to have stupid strong fingers
You never climber on the moonboard right?
he is talking about a moonboard v10 as u can see in the video. and we all know that is way harder than outdoor v10 in terms of finger strength required
I can do 14mm one arm pull up and my best moonboard grade is v8. I do in fact suck at climbing
I love your content. How long have you been climbing and how long have you been moonboarding?
@bossclimbs
What is your schedule on weekends? Are you resting?
Great video! I have incorporated pinky pulls into my routine. I found that it was extremely weak; pretty much doing nothing. Working on getting it into a half crimp.
thanks for the video, couldn't help myself wondering if you train/climb on Sat or Sundays? 😅
Things I learned (mostly a note to self):
Do arm lifting after my bouldering session rather than before.
Aim for stricter form in my half crimp arm lifts.
Consider gentle mono training to activate "lazy" fingers like the index and pinky. Go very slow. Strengthening these fingers could potentially help with capsulitis in the middle and ring fingers.
Consider wrist curls. Don't bend wrist into flexion when doing them.
A solid video. Loved that you try and in cooperate as many academic sources as possible where climbing has little specific academic studies. Training can be so complicated sometimes and is almost an art and I hope you continue mastering that art!
There’s a lot of really awesome advice and good training insights in this video, but i think it’s also important to note that v13 strength is not required to climb v9 or 10. If you can’t hang 1arm on 20m but are looking to climb v9 or 10, it’s still absolutely possible.
Great video! How do you feel about Emil's "light hangboard every day" protocol? Have you tried it, and if so, how do you modify your training schedule (if at all) to fit it in?
Thank you for sharing! Very useful stuff! Just for discussion, isn’t it a bad idea to do limit lifting after an already intense moonboard session?
keep it up! finally
Have you looked at training with an unlevel edge? Tyler Nelson mentions it on a lot of his videos. It seems like that would be an easy way to make sure that your index and pinky fingers are getting loaded properly
Great video! What was your Tindeq protocol? Same as for the free weights?
hands down the best content on YT
Good video!
Hi, great content, thanks!! I am on a similar pathway but a bit behind... Quick question, when you talk about a moonboard session, how long it is and how many attempts more or less??
Great detailed video, curious for next one!
Curious about a few things:
Before injury your pickup training weights and reps were the same for left and right hand, you didn't have any deficit? If you did have a deficit any reason why you didn't use the individual ORM to determine your working sets?
Regarding form: Opening hand during the pull is bad because your goal here is to train half-crimp right ? but if one's goal was to train open-hand or chisel (or just finger strength in general and they just happen to be more comfortable in open-hand) there's nothing wrong with that right? To be honest the video you showed for "bad form" just looks like someone training open hand to me (it might be half-crimp before the pull because without weight it's harder to just hold on the pick up device in open hand on small edge).
(*Pristine btw).
what do you use to record, great video btw
really good video:)))
Thanks for making your videos they are very inspiring. HOWEVER, my eyes filled with sadness when you swished that pbutter.
20:00 is there a reason you never extend your DIP joints during training? I see pro climbers like Aidan Roberts do some very extreme DIP extensions that let him latch onto very small edges. Curious what your rationale is for this, is it only a training protocol on max lifts to avoid injury? I suppose it is unrealistic to ever do a full bodyweight one arm hang on extended DIP joints but it still feels like something worth training to me.
Perfect
I'm curious if you've had experience using an unlevel edge, or what your opinion on that instead of pinkie isolation lifts would be
Hi man ! Great content!
Maybe I just didn't catch it, but what was your rest time between sets during your half crimp training ? Because between 2 sides, warm up and then 4 "real training" set it could/should take quite a lot of time !
Thanks again for the content !
Oh .. another question.. I also got a tindeq, how do you screw the one you have on the plank ? Thx again !
Great vid. You mentioned around 7:00 that you mostly use a tindeq for your armlifts (now?). Do you think you would have gotten to the one arm 20mm hang using only this method as well with no actual weight lifted?
I think the simple answer is yes, but it helps to do it with actual weights first to understand the theory and how your strength progresses to the exercises.
My repeater protocol on the Tindeq is : Sets: 4. Set: "Reps:4, Work: 3 sec, Rest: 3 sec", Pause (rest): 5:00.
The important thing is to adjust the maximum strength parameter each session based on your previous session (if you pulled a max of 120lb last session, set the max strength, MVC (lbs) parameter of the current session to 120lb). Setting the Set Work Level to 100% to correlate with the "line" that you need to pull towards, which is analogous to if you were to use real weights. If you've gotten stronger, your numbers will trend upwards each session.
Still experimenting with the tindeq and finding the best settings that work for me, will likely talk about it more in Part 3 of this series, apologies for the long wait time for that video (busy with school) but I hope this comment helps.
@@bossclimbs Thanks for the quick and detailed response, especially on the nitty gritty of your protocl! I got a tindeq myself a couple of months ago and tried a similar approch but had to back off from max pulls and especially rep-work again (because they seemed to aggravate it more than say 3 sets of 10sec constant pulling) because of a tweaky PIP joint. I don't think it's lack of hydration my case, but I think doing the pulls right after the warm-up before the climbing might have had some role to play in that, so I'll move it to the end and see how it goes. Looking foward to your next installnents but take all the time you need.
I can hang for a lot longer 3 finger drag off the 20 but actually doing movements like a 1 arm pull up feel easier when hanging in half crimp
Great detailed video! I am currently set back a bit due to an a4 pulley injury from 2 1/2 weeks ago. When did you restart training for the injured finger?
Start training as soon as possible. My experience with pulley injuries is that the longer pause you take the longer it takes to get back to feeling healthy. Of course you have to go easy. Good indication if you go to hard is the feeling in your injures finger the next day. It should be only slightly more painfull than the previous day. Hope this helps. Wish you fast recovery🙂
@@ristosovcev98 I actually started climbing again after 2 1/2 weeks. Of course only slow and no dynamic moves. Whenever I felt pain on a route I would immediately stop.
Now after 5 weeks I am using open hand, slopers and jugs that won't poke the more sensitive areas.
I made good progress and now started tracking 1-finger crimps with Tindeq to be very precise.
@@HealingMushroom very good. You shoul progresivly overload the finger. In my case i always come back stronger, because i was always overtrained🙈
Youre on the right path👊
been waiting for this ever since i said :((((
19:50 you talk about not wanting your dip joint to be extended during the crimp. But when i half crimp i dont feel like i can lift anything near as heavy with my dip joints engaged (trying to push the weight more through my fingertips than just passively push off the pads) my dip joints arent hyper flexible so they go maybe 10% hyperextended when under highest load. I don't really understand what you meant here.
Quick question, when you outline your schedule it's only Mon-Fri. How were you spending your weekends during the training phases? Just resting, some casual outdoor climbing? Super sick vid, thanks for putting in the work!
Exactly, either resting or outdoor sport climbing (lower intensity in the 5.11-low 12 range)
Where did you get that pullup bar station you have at home?