Brilliant! I was planning to buy a low cost helicopter simulator controller kit to use with VR. Which is roughly same design as yours, minus collective. The kit is £750. With a bit of design change to accommodate collective instead of throttle, I can DIY it for 1/3 of the kit's price ^_^ Thanks a bunch Tom! You made my day!
I'm considering this for the same thing: add a collective and twist grip throttle and possibly remove the cantering springs from the cyclic would be perfect
@gargy2002 Or you could do all that and enjoy learning new skills and accomplishing something you haven't done before. Plus then you'll have new tools and a 3D Printer too! And still spend time with your family. Win, win, and win. (Of course yeah, if the only goal is money saving and you don't have interest beyond the device -- just buy it.)
This is was a brilliantly simple and elegant build! I always thought these kind of joystick or HOTAS set-ups would be really tricky. One suggestion for the code is it use the Button library. It handles all the current-state/previous-state internally so your code is a lot tighter. Also, you can use arrays to save yourself from repeating code for every axis/button. This makes it a lot easier to add more inputs down the line. That said, arrays can be difficult to figure out, especially with arrays of objects, so there's kind of a learning investment to do.
Thanks for the links! The code and drivers work great as long as one takes a look and makes sure the axis assignments correspond correctly. Appreciate you sharing your work, happy flying! I'll be working on a Spitfire-style spade grip :)
If you don't have a compass but you know where north is, you can float the magnet in a plastic lid (off a milk bottle or some such) and change the orientation until it lines up N-S. Mark the north pole with a dot from a marker pen.
Came here because I was wondering how the Joystick driver was made, of course there is already a Arduino library ;) Looking at your code I noticed a lot of duplication though, especially the switch part could be written way shorter. Just save the pin definitions and lastButtonState as array, then do the setup and readout in a for loop. CurrentButtonState does not need to be global, one temporary variable is enough. This might sound like overengineering, but it makes changing the pins way simpler as well. I can send you a pull request if you want.
@@timcuatt1640 Here: github.com/Jakeler/Flight-Simulator-Joystick/blob/main/Flight_Sim_Controller.ino You can also find it through the open pull request in his repo page.
I have been designing something similar, very early stages, but one thing I am looking into is to surround the stick with a air bladder (similar to a blood pressure cuff) to make the stick stiffer at higher speeds. In fact, originally I was thinking of creating a seat with air bladders to (poorly) simulate G-forces in the seat. If the pilot is well strapped in, air bladders to the back, right and left inflate and push against the pilot (originally for simracing, but it would work for flight simulation as well with some modifications
Thanks for this. I want to do exactly the same but for a helicopter, so will be adding a collective/throttle lever also. Especially thx for the tip on linear hall effect sensors. The link on your video is no longer valid, but I was able to find sensors for less than $1 US and the first one seemed to work great. This will greatly improve the reliability vs a potentiometer. I also really like how you use 80/20 extrusions. They are so handy for anything like this.
Thank you for this you solved all of the design problems I had, I just need some money, and I already see how to add break on the rudder, more throttle, ffb... seems a cool project to do !
Thanks for both videos. You're a real good engineer. Akaki Kuumeri YT video uses the same technique. I assume he inspired you too. Both inspiring creations.
This is great timing! I have been thinking about doing this my self but have no experience with arduino. So Im definitely going to build one now. although i might just go with the rudder and throttle setup first.
Thank you so much for this project Tom. This should be more accurately described as a HOTAS since it's a lot more than just a joystick. As a FS2020 user I've wanted something like this but you've given me the impetus to build it myself. I was originally using CH Products throttle and stick but the big issue is rudder pedals using a standard office chair. By modifying your design to anchor to the central pillar of the chair it should stop the chair rotating when applying pressure to the pedals. Another design question is that the brakes are supposed to be integrated into the pedals on light aircraft. Maybe a pair of button pads mounted above the rudder pedals?
I think you can do the same thing as he did with the throttle, but add a rotational axis with a potentiometer and add it to the code, should be quite straightfoward (I guess)
Thanks very much for your generous sharing and kindness ! Your channel is excellent. I wish my english was better to imply in common project. Hope you will carry on your experiments and inventions for long. Not only ambitious, you go as far as possible, with basic stuff and tools, congratulations.
That are my intensions too. I´m going to use a modificated cyclic / TM Warthog, but try to use the Arduino Sim from Tim for rudder pedals and collective. I just try to understand the Arduino codes and will going to use another hall effect sensor for the collective.
Hi Tim, very cool! I have built some hardware for flightsims (I use X-plane 11) like rotary encoders for controlling flight instruments and GPS/Radio/Autopilot. I like helicopters a lot and I am very interested in your project! Besides a yoke and throttle quadrant, including trimwheel, I have a good joystick (X52), but the experience with the hardware you built would be way better. We (my wife and me) like the UK very much, been there often for holidays! Cheers from The Netherlands (North-East).
How about using I²C hall effect sensor such as SI7210-B-00-IVR? That would be ~13 bit sensor with a cost of less than 1 euro. That supports 4 selectable I²C addresses so you could put 4 such sensors in a single wire. That sensor has internal for temperature compensation but it also supports reading the temperature so you can fix possible temperature caused drift in software, too.
I don’t have a 3D printer but want this so bad!! The only reason I bought a yoke was that the joystick throw is way too short. Have pedals and throttle just want the joystick part, shame you don’t make them and sell them!
Hi Tim. A great design. I found all the bolts and bearings at RS Components and the Hall effeect at Farnell. The Arduino came from Cool Components. I have a problem geting the Arduino to be recognised by my Windows 10 machine The old Wingman joystick is seen by the computor but cant work out why the Arduino isnt. Your help would be aprecaed
Hi Tom, I'm building something very similar to use as a training simulator for human powered flying. This might seem quite trivial but how have you secured the hall sensors in position?
Hi Tim thanks for this video. I’m afraid I am a retired military pilot who knows nothing of computer electronics but I am determined to construct my own flying controls for my flight simulator. Can you be more specific about the Arduino Micro board you used as I am having trouble sourcing it from the multitude of Arduino products out there?
Hello Tom! Great video like always ! I have 2 questions, do you consider to use ADS1115 module - do u think i will help increase the resolution ? You know maybe, how to eliminate this input lag? do u think that faster MCU like ESP will help with that ?
Gorgeous project !! Peeping your code a doubt has risen in my mind. Are you gettting full range (0 -1023) on A4 or other Hall sensors when setting them up as PULL UP ?
Tim, are you consideing offering kits? I can assemble the parts , maybe even find a printed equipped friend but the electronics and arduino are out of my skill set now.
in the process of getting these bits to make this. Can you confirm the sizes of the shoulder bolts for the rudder pedals, i am thinking they should be the same diameter / thread as the shoulder bolts in the joystick?
Nice Project, you inspired me to make some additional stuff for my existing setup but I have a question: what is roughly the maximum possible distance between the magnets?
Hello! Just wondering how/whether one could make the rudder pedals independent/wireless. Is it possible to transmit their analogue signals over bluetooth/wifi and if so how best to do this? I live in a small flat where I can't afford to have something as large as this setup :-)
Is it possible to explain the size of the bolts a little better for people, like me, don't use the metric system especially the shoulder bolts? Having an issue of finding the right bolt size. Also, what are the pitch of threads on the bolts?
Christmas is coming, and I notice you're a Banggood affiliate. What's the minimum hobby starter 3D printer? I've wondered about getting one, and this may tip the decision, but I know next to nothing about them when it comes to choosing one to buy for the first time.
Creality Ender 3, about £180. Prints amazing out of the box. With half an hour or so building and leveling the bed, you could get prints the same quality as you see in this video. 3d modelling is another skill that really makes 3d printing useful. Fusion 360 is the best free software. Plenty of videos on printing and fusion on UA-cam.
I've been looking into building something like this for my RC planes. How easy could you modify the code in the arduino and make the necessary connections to make it easy to connect to a RC Transmitter?
not sure if this is what you want to hear, but you could take apart a rc transmitter and replace your roll, pitch, yaw, and throttle potentiomiters with the hall effect sensors that are built into tom's joystick. that would be the easiest way in my opinion. The other option is programming the arduino to output a CPPM signal based off of the individual hall sensor's values, and then connecting that to the trainer port on your RC transmitter.
Outputting ppm can be done quite easily with an arduino and then plugging into a RC transmitter with trainer mode so if anything goes wrong you can use the rc transmitter
It’s been a long time, and Tim’s design and implementation are better than mine in every way. I only post this to show you that yes it is very possible to make this work with an RC controller. I don’t recall exactly which library I used, but I know it output ppm and I wired it into the trainer port on my RC transmitter. ua-cam.com/video/gHg2VLMVQRo/v-deo.html
Hi, first of all, thank you very much for such an instructive video, it's been great. Im currentrly running tests in order to see If I can get the circuit up and running, and then, Im going to print everything. One thing Im facing on my tests, using an arduino UNO and a ss49e sensor, is that I cant get the value to reach maxium and minimum values. Printing a simple Serial.println(analogRead(A0)); and using 5x2mm neodymium magnets, I can only move from 400 to 600 output value, no matter how I face or how close I put both magnets (Im sure I faced the north and south poles correctly), while I was exptecting the full 0-1024 range. Is it possible that these magnets are not powerful enough? Thanks in advance!
Great idea, I use the same library to make an additional Clutch Pedal for my El Cheapo Sim Racing Setup. This works perfectly, although my code is not so perfect, as I have no automatic Offset calibration? Did you do this in your code?
Do you have an approximate spring constant for the springs you used in your design? Working on something similar and trying to decide on the return spring strength...
Buttons without pull-up resistors, and going to analog inputs? Never seen that before. Maybe reading all those ADC channels causes some latency, as compared to using pull-up resistors with digital inputs. Though I doubt any such latency it causes is on the 100ms scale. Still, makes me wonder where all that latency comes from, be nice to see you hook up a logic analyser to some digital outputs of the arduino, which are programmed to turn on at certain stages in the loop so you can debug your circuit without loading it down with much extra code. Using an external SPI ADC might speed things up, maybe.
Hi TIm great project, which probably persuate me to build a rig where i can run MSFS2020 (curently using apple ecosystem). Are you aware or someone from audience if MS joystick driver comptibile with arduino joystick library is also compatibile with x-box One?
You say you used M8 shoulder bolts for the rudder pedals, but you are using 10mm ID bearings there. Is this a typo in your parts list and it should be M10x30mm shoulder bolts? Also, where did you find your springs? I'm trying to source these parts in Canada, and it is a nightmare D: metric parts are so hard to find...
Hi ! I'm new to this Arduino/clones but I really wants to build some controls for the FS2020 ! I just ordered some controllers from Banggood (not Arduinos but GeekCreit !) I designed a rudder pedal including L/R-brake switch mechanicly and want to make the coding of wiring now. Unfortunaly I see it's NOT the same microcontroler ... I have a board with the 3.3V 8MHz ATmega328P 1) will it work with the library ? 2) is there a forum or so for projects like this FS2020 controls somewhere ?
you will be able to make a guide of the connections and compilation of working arduino? For people who know how to build and print but do not know how to use arduino. Like me, for example. I would pay for this info
I am working on this exact thing this weekend. I am not great with Arduino but I have messed with it enough to figure it out. Literally just finished testing my arduino with the buttons, potentiometer and hall effect sensor and it all works. It is pretty simple. I will be making a UA-cam video and link will be on thingiverse
Hi Tim, thanks for the great project. My 3d printer runs for the second day. I´m going to convert the simulator for a helicopter, so I will use Your rudder pedals and build a collective instead of the throttle stick. For the cyclic I implemented a third party stick but with modifications. This little Arduino Leonardo is my very first Arduino and I try to understand Your code with multiple UA-cam Videos. The upload of your codec was successful so far, but no sensors are connected yet. I have one question about the analog config. My Arduino has 5 Analog Pins and in the codec is written analog A6 as example for the rudder pedals. And pinMode A0-A9. Is Your Board extended? I only need 2 Analog Pins for tail rotor and collectiv. But this confusing me. Mybe someone can help me before I start to rewrite the codec. Best Regards.
the animations of the magnets and hall sensors interacting are really great... lot of value how things get together.
especially this bit also 2:40
Brilliant! I was planning to buy a low cost helicopter simulator controller kit to use with VR. Which is roughly same design as yours, minus collective. The kit is £750. With a bit of design change to accommodate collective instead of throttle, I can DIY it for 1/3 of the kit's price ^_^ Thanks a bunch Tom! You made my day!
planning something similar heli simming is expensive
I'm considering this for the same thing: add a collective and twist grip throttle and possibly remove the cantering springs from the cyclic would be perfect
Oz What heli sim do you plan to play?
@gargy2002 but you see, i have friends with printers, and soldering irons
@gargy2002 Or you could do all that and enjoy learning new skills and accomplishing something you haven't done before. Plus then you'll have new tools and a 3D Printer too! And still spend time with your family. Win, win, and win. (Of course yeah, if the only goal is money saving and you don't have interest beyond the device -- just buy it.)
Very impressive tom! To make a STRONG flight stick of the shelf and keep it relative cheap!!
This is was a brilliantly simple and elegant build! I always thought these kind of joystick or HOTAS set-ups would be really tricky.
One suggestion for the code is it use the Button library. It handles all the current-state/previous-state internally so your code is a lot tighter. Also, you can use arrays to save yourself from repeating code for every axis/button. This makes it a lot easier to add more inputs down the line. That said, arrays can be difficult to figure out, especially with arrays of objects, so there's kind of a learning investment to do.
Thanks for the links! The code and drivers work great as long as one takes a look and makes sure the axis assignments correspond correctly.
Appreciate you sharing your work, happy flying! I'll be working on a Spitfire-style spade grip :)
If you don't have a compass but you know where north is, you can float the magnet in a plastic lid (off a milk bottle or some such) and change the orientation until it lines up N-S. Mark the north pole with a dot from a marker pen.
Didn't know that this second channel existed until you mentioned it in the primary video for this joystick.
Came here because I was wondering how the Joystick driver was made, of course there is already a Arduino library ;)
Looking at your code I noticed a lot of duplication though, especially the switch part could be written way shorter. Just save the pin definitions and lastButtonState as array, then do the setup and readout in a for loop. CurrentButtonState does not need to be global, one temporary variable is enough. This might sound like overengineering, but it makes changing the pins way simpler as well. I can send you a pull request if you want.
Ooooh I'd be interested in seeing the code myself!
@@timcuatt1640 Here: github.com/Jakeler/Flight-Simulator-Joystick/blob/main/Flight_Sim_Controller.ino
You can also find it through the open pull request in his repo page.
@@1Hippo Other thing to change.. the joystick range should be 0-1023 and not 0-1024. This is a 10bit value.
This is really cool. The hall sensors are definety something that interests me.
Thank you so much! I purchased flight simulator recently but the stick that I wanted to buy is out of stock... Now I know what to build!
I have been designing something similar, very early stages, but one thing I am looking into is to surround the stick with a air bladder (similar to a blood pressure cuff) to make the stick stiffer at higher speeds. In fact, originally I was thinking of creating a seat with air bladders to (poorly) simulate G-forces in the seat. If the pilot is well strapped in, air bladders to the back, right and left inflate and push against the pilot (originally for simracing, but it would work for flight simulation as well with some modifications
Tim you are a legend! Thanks for this awesome DIY project, I am definitely giving it a go.
Thanks for this. I want to do exactly the same but for a helicopter, so will be adding a collective/throttle lever also. Especially thx for the tip on linear hall effect sensors. The link on your video is no longer valid, but I was able to find sensors for less than $1 US and the first one seemed to work great. This will greatly improve the reliability vs a potentiometer. I also really like how you use 80/20 extrusions. They are so handy for anything like this.
Thank you for this you solved all of the design problems I had, I just need some money, and I already see how to add break on the rudder, more throttle, ffb... seems a cool project to do !
Thanks for both videos. You're a real good engineer.
Akaki Kuumeri YT video uses the same technique. I assume he inspired you too.
Both inspiring creations.
This is great timing! I have been thinking about doing this my self but have no experience with arduino. So Im definitely going to build one now. although i might just go with the rudder and throttle setup first.
Nice, I'd not realised you had a second channel - just subscribed! :)
Thank you so much for this project Tom. This should be more accurately described as a HOTAS since it's a lot more than just a joystick. As a FS2020 user I've wanted something like this but you've given me the impetus to build it myself. I was originally using CH Products throttle and stick but the big issue is rudder pedals using a standard office chair. By modifying your design to anchor to the central pillar of the chair it should stop the chair rotating when applying pressure to the pedals. Another design question is that the brakes are supposed to be integrated into the pedals on light aircraft. Maybe a pair of button pads mounted above the rudder pedals?
would you mind sharing the step files for this amazing project? :-)
I want to see you build a collective hand throttle so you can do helicopters
I think you can do the same thing as he did with the throttle, but add a rotational axis with a potentiometer and add it to the code, should be quite straightfoward (I guess)
Thanks very much for your generous sharing and kindness ! Your channel is excellent. I wish my english was better to imply in common project.
Hope you will carry on your experiments and inventions for long.
Not only ambitious, you go as far as possible, with basic stuff and tools, congratulations.
Now you need to use it for some FPV flying!
Thank you Tom, this is fantastic! How about a mod for the throttle quadrant converted into a collective lever for helicopter simulators? 🤓
That are my intensions too. I´m going to use a modificated cyclic / TM Warthog, but try to use the Arduino Sim from Tim for rudder pedals and collective. I just try to understand the Arduino codes and will going to use another hall effect sensor for the collective.
Very nice, been thinking about doing this myself and never found the time, now I don't need to!
Now make a racing setup, you would make some real awesome designs if using Hall effect for those.
using ribbon cable for the switch panel would really help with labeling/ identifying components!
This looks fantastic, better than anything I have seen. Do you, built a helicopter collective that can be use with the accelerator?
Hi Tim, very cool! I have built some hardware for flightsims (I use X-plane 11) like rotary encoders for controlling flight instruments and GPS/Radio/Autopilot.
I like helicopters a lot and I am very interested in your project! Besides a yoke and throttle quadrant, including trimwheel, I have a good joystick (X52), but the
experience with the hardware you built would be way better. We (my wife and me) like the UK very much, been there often for holidays! Cheers from The Netherlands (North-East).
3:30 Seems like you would have benefited from a multicolor ribbon cable here, especially given the common ground/earth. 🤓🤔🤷♂️
great project, looks like a really solid execution, thanks for sharing :D
Those Hall devices are expensive ($5 each). Try searching eBay for 49E Hall sensors @$0.14 each in 10+ quantities.
@PUB Genius Yes these are analog devices so give a output proportional with change in magnetic field
Hello Tim, What is the name of the board below the arduino micro?
How about using I²C hall effect sensor such as SI7210-B-00-IVR? That would be ~13 bit sensor with a cost of less than 1 euro. That supports 4 selectable I²C addresses so you could put 4 such sensors in a single wire. That sensor has internal for temperature compensation but it also supports reading the temperature so you can fix possible temperature caused drift in software, too.
So, sorry: Is your name Tim or Tom? I just watched your clip on making a joystick and there it is Tom, yet here it is Tim.
I don’t have a 3D printer but want this so bad!! The only reason I bought a yoke was that the joystick throw is way too short.
Have pedals and throttle just want the joystick part, shame you don’t make them and sell them!
If you hang the magnets they will orient themselves within the earth magnetic field, the north will be facing north.
What sort of bread board thing is the arduino attached to? Thats the only thing I think I am missing!
Really cool project!
Very interesting work Tim. I just have one query that how had interfaced your controller with the flight simulator.
Hi Tim. A great design. I found all the bolts and bearings at RS Components and the Hall effeect at Farnell. The Arduino came from Cool Components. I have a problem geting the Arduino to be recognised by my Windows 10 machine The old Wingman joystick is seen by the computor but cant work out why the Arduino isnt. Your help would be aprecaed
Can it work with 5x5x5 magnets?
I'm going to try this with a 12 bit ADC rather than 10 bit.
sweet rig!
Hi Tom, I'm building something very similar to use as a training simulator for human powered flying. This might seem quite trivial but how have you secured the hall sensors in position?
> i've got too many links in the description
I see you've streamlined it now by forgoing the main channel video link c:
Can I remove the potentiometer from the joystick and install a hall sensor for greater precision? Regards from Brazil.
Hi Tim thanks for this video. I’m afraid I am a retired military pilot who knows nothing of computer electronics but I am determined to construct my own flying controls for my flight simulator. Can you be more specific about the Arduino Micro board you used as I am having trouble sourcing it from the multitude of Arduino products out there?
I presume that a similar system could be used for a racing wheel and pedal design
Any plans for a collective for helicopter sim?
Very cool. I might try to do this. I never even knew of some of these components. May I ask how long it took you to develop and build this project?
Adding force feedback in verison 2?
nice video. nice project.! is it easy to get the outputs connected to an open tx transmitter?
Hope this set-up works for DCS
Very clever use of magnets! Did you considered using an opamp to do the scaling instead? That's an interesting topic on itself
I've been using this for a few years, and I'm looking to upgrade. Any chance you can post the STEP files?
Good video ! can i use A3144 hall sensor from amazon ? or another stuff like that ?
How do you manage to read from 0 to 1023? The datasheet for SS496A1 says that Vout is from 0.5v to 4.5v.
Hello Tom! Great video like always ! I have 2 questions, do you consider to use ADS1115 module - do u think i will help increase the resolution ? You know maybe, how to eliminate this input lag? do u think that faster MCU like ESP will help with that ?
hi tom
can you do a tutorial of how to build the compositor rc car or rocket?
that would be nice
This is fantastic. Is there any way to adapt this to operate a Collective for Heli flights?
Gorgeous project !! Peeping your code a doubt has risen in my mind. Are you gettting full range (0 -1023) on A4 or other Hall sensors when setting them up as PULL UP ?
you are amazing , thank you so much for your informations
Tim, are you consideing offering kits? I can assemble the parts , maybe even find a printed equipped friend but the electronics and arduino are out of my skill set now.
this is probably the best joystick u could ever have!
sadly dont have a 3d printer :(
if someone wants to sell his or her unit id be intrested tho ;)
also :D
tim would u build one on order :D?
in the process of getting these bits to make this. Can you confirm the sizes of the shoulder bolts for the rudder pedals, i am thinking they should be the same diameter / thread as the shoulder bolts in the joystick?
Nice Project, you inspired me to make some additional stuff for my existing setup but I have a question:
what is roughly the maximum possible distance between the magnets?
Lovely Project! Do you have the STEP files available for the 3D printed parts?
Hello! Just wondering how/whether one could make the rudder pedals independent/wireless. Is it possible to transmit their analogue signals over bluetooth/wifi and if so how best to do this? I live in a small flat where I can't afford to have something as large as this setup :-)
The values in the analogRead should be 0-1023 not 1024.
welp, the only thing i wanted was that it didn't needed a 3d printer
Is it possible to explain the size of the bolts a little better for people, like me, don't use the metric system especially the shoulder bolts? Having an issue of finding the right bolt size. Also, what are the pitch of threads on the bolts?
Christmas is coming, and I notice you're a Banggood affiliate.
What's the minimum hobby starter 3D printer? I've wondered about getting one, and this may tip the decision, but I know next to nothing about them when it comes to choosing one to buy for the first time.
Creality Ender 3, about £180. Prints amazing out of the box. With half an hour or so building and leveling the bed, you could get prints the same quality as you see in this video. 3d modelling is another skill that really makes 3d printing useful. Fusion 360 is the best free software. Plenty of videos on printing and fusion on UA-cam.
@@joelaw728 Thanks for that. I'll check that out.
@@joelaw728 Fusion 360, however, will get worse over the next few months as some file export options and tools will be cut from the free version.
How does the signal get sent to the computer?
Oh you absolute god
Please tell me where you can get drawings or files of parts for a 3D printer? I wanted to change your mind a bit.
Dear Tim;
I almost finished my Joystick/Pedal. Did you try other hall sensors, can I use the 495 instead of the 496A1?
I've been looking into building something like this for my RC planes. How easy could you modify the code in the arduino and make the necessary connections to make it easy to connect to a RC Transmitter?
I've seen a couple DIY transmitters, it's mostly an exercise in finding the matching hardware and libraries, give it a google
not sure if this is what you want to hear, but you could take apart a rc transmitter and replace your roll, pitch, yaw, and throttle potentiomiters with the hall effect sensors that are built into tom's joystick. that would be the easiest way in my opinion. The other option is programming the arduino to output a CPPM signal based off of the individual hall sensor's values, and then connecting that to the trainer port on your RC transmitter.
Outputting ppm can be done quite easily with an arduino and then plugging into a RC transmitter with trainer mode so if anything goes wrong you can use the rc transmitter
@@Nicolas_dG is there a ppm library that you know of? I've been wanting to look into this for a while
It’s been a long time, and Tim’s design and implementation are better than mine in every way. I only post this to show you that yes it is very possible to make this work with an RC controller. I don’t recall exactly which library I used, but I know it output ppm and I wired it into the trainer port on my RC transmitter. ua-cam.com/video/gHg2VLMVQRo/v-deo.html
Hi, first of all, thank you very much for such an instructive video, it's been great. Im currentrly running tests in order to see If I can get the circuit up and running, and then, Im going to print everything. One thing Im facing on my tests, using an arduino UNO and a ss49e sensor, is that I cant get the value to reach maxium and minimum values. Printing a simple Serial.println(analogRead(A0)); and using 5x2mm neodymium magnets, I can only move from 400 to 600 output value, no matter how I face or how close I put both magnets (Im sure I faced the north and south poles correctly), while I was exptecting the full 0-1024 range. Is it possible that these magnets are not powerful enough? Thanks in advance!
Great idea, I use the same library to make an additional Clutch Pedal for my El Cheapo Sim Racing Setup. This works perfectly, although my code is not so perfect, as I have no automatic Offset calibration? Did you do this in your code?
Would this work with a yoke steering wheel by mounting the roll below the yoke instead of at the bottom?
Do you think this would work if I used an MPU6050 instead of the hall sensors?
Awesome project.
Question, why the decision not to go with standard skateboard bearings? 8 x 22 x 8
Brilliant idea!
What is the requirement that it must be a 32u4 processor for the Arduino?
It's required by the Arduino Joystick Library; it is for to mimic USB joystick to Windows.
It is the cheapest Arduino that is recognized as USB by a PC, otherwise it will not be seen as a controller or 🕹️.
can we use Arduino UNO R3 to make this simulator ???
I mistakenly ordered m5 screws instead of bolts. Does it matter?
What are the chances of you making one of these for a helicopter with collective and cyclic?
Do you have an approximate spring constant for the springs you used in your design? Working on something similar and trying to decide on the return spring strength...
can someone make a parts list with links ?
I'm interested in making this.
Buttons without pull-up resistors, and going to analog inputs? Never seen that before. Maybe reading all those ADC channels causes some latency, as compared to using pull-up resistors with digital inputs. Though I doubt any such latency it causes is on the 100ms scale.
Still, makes me wonder where all that latency comes from, be nice to see you hook up a logic analyser to some digital outputs of the arduino, which are programmed to turn on at certain stages in the loop so you can debug your circuit without loading it down with much extra code.
Using an external SPI ADC might speed things up, maybe.
You can use all inputs as digital. Atmega have internal pull-ups, no need for adding extra resistors.
Hi TIm great project, which probably persuate me to build a rig where i can run MSFS2020 (curently using apple ecosystem). Are you aware or someone from audience if MS joystick driver comptibile with arduino joystick library is also compatibile with x-box One?
i can make this 3d printed part small to do a sidestick like Airbus?
I get "Error compiling for board Arduino Pro or Pro Mini." any advice
You say you used M8 shoulder bolts for the rudder pedals, but you are using 10mm ID bearings there. Is this a typo in your parts list and it should be M10x30mm shoulder bolts?
Also, where did you find your springs? I'm trying to source these parts in Canada, and it is a nightmare D: metric parts are so hard to find...
Tim Station ftw
Hi !
I'm new to this Arduino/clones but I really wants to build some controls for the FS2020 !
I just ordered some controllers from Banggood (not Arduinos but GeekCreit !)
I designed a rudder pedal including L/R-brake switch mechanicly and want to make the coding of wiring now.
Unfortunaly I see it's NOT the same microcontroler ... I have a board with the 3.3V 8MHz ATmega328P
1) will it work with the library ?
2) is there a forum or so for projects like this FS2020 controls somewhere ?
is should be the 32U4 chip
Hello!
Great project, thanks for inspiration!!!
I have question. Can I use SS495A type of hall effect sensor?
I can't buy in poland 496 type.
Regards
I'm wondering the same thing. Output current of the SS495A1 is less than the SS496A1. Not sure what the result will be.
@@martinbachrodt745 it is perfect. Flight simulator working grate. Thanks !
Can i use hall effect sensor SS49E instead? i cant fined anything about how they are different.
they work just as well.
you will be able to make a guide of the connections and compilation of working arduino? For people who know how to build and print but do not know how to use arduino. Like me, for example. I would pay for this info
I am working on this exact thing this weekend. I am not great with Arduino but I have messed with it enough to figure it out. Literally just finished testing my arduino with the buttons, potentiometer and hall effect sensor and it all works. It is pretty simple. I will be making a UA-cam video and link will be on thingiverse
@@headintheclouds2569 It would be interesting to me too.
@@sleepyhollow6884 you know, I finished this thing and it works great but I never made a dang video or anything 😄
Think you could simplify it by using this BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board from LeoBodnar? Whats the downsides? Works with hall effect.
I was thinking the same. I have the same and currently am just using slide pots for throttles, props and mixtures.
Hi Tim, thanks for the great project. My 3d printer runs for the second day. I´m going to convert the simulator for a helicopter, so I will use Your rudder pedals and build a collective instead of the throttle stick. For the cyclic I implemented a third party stick but with modifications. This little Arduino Leonardo is my very first Arduino and I try to understand Your code with multiple UA-cam Videos. The upload of your codec was successful so far, but no sensors are connected yet. I have one question about the analog config. My Arduino has 5 Analog Pins and in the codec is written analog A6 as example for the rudder pedals. And pinMode A0-A9. Is Your Board extended? I only need 2 Analog Pins for tail rotor and collectiv. But this confusing me.
Mybe someone can help me before I start to rewrite the codec. Best Regards.