Thanks for sharing this. Recently purchased a new-to-me truck with the same aftermarket controller that continually shows the trailer isn't connected or shows it intermittently. Will definitely check the trailer ground wires as I've been wracking my brain with the wiring at the controller end.
I mean no disrespect, but in my experience, which is a lot over many years, the crimpers you used have about a 50% fail rate. The first thing I do these days is yank on a hand full of wires when someone ask me to trouble shoot their wiring. Not to be a dick, I yank on every wire I just crimped because I still mess up here and there and I do it over right there. You're right , it's just about always the ground when messing with trailers but when that cheep crimper from Walmart is used you'll be back under that trailer sooner than nessisary. it just doesn't crimp. It smashes. Wire nuts would actually do better against those specific crimper. You know better. All that money I see in you're video and you probably have the good stake on crimper in your other truck or tool bag. I have one of those POS I keep around just to cut the 10-24 or 8-32 hardware bolts with on rare occasions. That was a nice trailer you were under by the way. So clean and you were on a slab. Must be nice. OK my break is over and I was just waiting on the JB weld to dry on the break controller case so I could mount it back up again. They designed that controller case to not have screws but to have the plastic melted like a rivet so you have to break it to open it up. I want everybody reading this to take note not just to use proper stake on crimper but also notice how I didn't come on here spreading hate when I had a suggestion on a different way of doing things. Stop the hate, raise your frequency.
i have an 03 chevy Silverado 2500hd WT. brake controller wired into fuse box in the floor. do i need to run the black wire to my 7pin connector or will the power cm from the wiring harness?
I thought that my problem was my truck or the brake controller. I followed your advice (checking wiring and adding grounds at each wheel), and my aftermarket controller now works on my 2016 Ram 1500!
Love the content, thanks. I just got a 7.3l Diesel that I want to tow and the previous owner removed the brake controller. I went and got one from another rig and noticed that the Ford Factory plug in the cab has Ground, Brake pedal Power but the Battery Voltage lead in the plug is dead. The Fuse is good so any idea where I could look next? Appreciate it.
I found a fix for my Nissan Armada. I have a RedArc controller and it was flashing, not detecting the trailer brakes. I did the usual (disconnected and reconnected brake controller, cleaned the connectors at the back using spray etc, nothing). I got my multimeter and selected 12v DC, and switched the Armada on (engine running). Connected the black probe to the negative terminal on the 7 way connector (truck) and red to the brake controller pin (truck) and sure enough I got only 3.5 volts. So the problem was in the Nissan. I checked the fuse boxes (I have 4) and there was a couple of blown ones. I swapped the brake controller relay (it wasn't this) and FINALLY I opened the fuse box with the MPF fuses. These are little boxes with 3 fuses built in, mine was red. Took it out and bam, centre 30a fuse was blown. This was the issue. My Armada is 13 years old. So, before you go looking at trailer brake wires, blue wires etc etc, check the MPF fuses. Part number for mine was 24370. Be mindful the connectors are two horizontal and 2 vertical on the underside. Pull it out with needle nose pliers to check. Best of luck people.
So kinda running into tbe same problem except the controller will be fine for a couple minutes and will then start flashing n.c. and then maybe 10 seconds or so itll go back to reading the breaks again where u see .c and when breaks are pushed u can see the gain levels rise. Itll keep repeating that process. I thought maybe a bad ground cause i ran all new wiring around the whole trailer but used the existing power and ground coming out of the drums. Doni think grounding each break individually to the frame would fix or is this something else.. thanks in advance for any help.
I have told every employee I asked to repair trailer wiring and every trailer manufacturer I considered purchasing a trailer from that the trailer frame should BE grounded, the trailer frame should not BE the ground. Trailers should be wired as if they were entirely made of plastic. ALL electricity should be running through wires, NOT steel or aluminum structure!!
Hello there. I have a U-Haul trailer ( tandom) with the Prodigy brake system. Recently went out, but two small red light are on, so I know there is power. It worked intermittently, and now it is completely out. You mentioned in this video that it could be a couple of things. One being ground and I’m not sure what the other was. I don’t believe you covered what the other possibility could be.
sounds like a loose connection to me check all your plugs first and make sure they're aren't any loose wires ,then check trailer tail and wires on trailer for loose connections,alsocheck the truck side of the female plug sometimes the internal blades get bent and dont make a good connection. hope this helps
Subscribed! I pull trailers all over the United States - not usually the same one twice. The factory trailer brake controller is bad on my 12 Ram 5500. Should I spend $250 on a new Ram controller or install an older but never used Prodigy on it? Thanks for your channel
Replacing a controller that was "custom" wired up in my 04 Superduty with installing the Tekonsha adapter to the factory plug buried behind the center kick panel (which is why the other person "customized" I bet as it is a PITA to attach). After doing this I've cut the custom plug out, but still have NC at the controller. I assumed with the old plug out of the system it would now function. Any suggestions?
Its hard to say it could be a couple different things possibly grounds are no good on trailer ,check ground connections to frame and body of trailer, also make sure grounds to brakes are good and there is 1 ground per break cylinder (if its equipped with electric trailer brakes)could be weak brake magnets 9 times out of 10 its the ground s ,if it has electric over hydraulic brakes( there only 1 or two grounds by the hydraulic brake actuator)if those are good , its more than likely a wiring issue with the truck, some of the newer trucks ive had to actually run new cable to the rear of the truck because the integrated brake controller wiring won't support an aftermarket brake controller, and dont forget to check the plug and make sure the wiring matches the (truck to trailer) and that there are no pulled wires, hope this helps ! @kirkcondon5996
Usually a minimum of around 200$, it depends on how far I have to drive and how long the job takes . a good way to price it is around 100$ an hour 2$ a mile for travel and a minimum of 1 hours you dont waste your time . thanks for the good question and comment!
So where can I bring my car and travel trailer to fix it? Camping World installed it but won’t touch it when it’s hooked up to the trailer because it’s a 1971. Their dongle showed it working but turns out they grounded the controller to something on rubber bushings under the car. I just had a new battery installed in my Subaru, and now the brake controller isn’t showing anything on the display anymore. When I first start the car it looks like it says oh see but it’s kind of chopped off at the top. I’m in Texas, near San Antonio currently.
I have a 2011 silverado and I went on a trip before I Left the brake controller was working and then when I left hooked up and I had trailer lights but the controller was showing NC (prodigy) controller. So I unplugged it because it felt like the brakes were still applying
How about this twist - I use same brake controller on my expedition and my titan. When I plug brake controller into expedition, trailer works great. When I plug same controller into Titan, the trailer doesn't respond. All voltage looks good at plug on Titan with controller plugged in, I checked each 7 pin for function and voltage. Trailer also works on Titan without brake controller. Where do I start, geez@@@!!! lol
The brake sensing wire could be hooked up to a constant source of power ( when you step on the brakes it sends power to controller), it should sense that there is a trailer connected (NC or C) then go out after not sensing voltage. hope this helps
could be wired incorrectly when the lever is pulled it should be lower voltage and proportional like 6 to 8 volts until the lever is maxed out. I've rarely seen the brake controllers go bad . let me know if I can help
yeah these horse trailers are always screwed up and the owners aren't always willing to pay , they travel all around the country with millions of dollars worth of horses and complain about spending some money on their trailers ? I never really understood it.
@@happybleeding me either. But if something happens shortly after they want blame u and want it warranty. When I can't do things way should be I write out and make them sign a paper stating they stopping me from doing it right.
@@happybleeding yes it covers you and if something could happen cause someone get hurt you have in writing you tried do it right way they refused. Trust me you want cover yourself every which way. Are you keeping track your miles and gas and parts and tools for taxes reasons?
Thanks for sharing this. Recently purchased a new-to-me truck with the same aftermarket controller that continually shows the trailer isn't connected or shows it intermittently. Will definitely check the trailer ground wires as I've been wracking my brain with the wiring at the controller end.
I mean no disrespect, but in my experience, which is a lot over many years, the crimpers you used have about a 50% fail rate. The first thing I do these days is yank on a hand full of wires when someone ask me to trouble shoot their wiring. Not to be a dick, I yank on every wire I just crimped because I still mess up here and there and I do it over right there. You're right , it's just about always the ground when messing with trailers but when that cheep crimper from Walmart is used you'll be back under that trailer sooner than nessisary. it just doesn't crimp. It smashes. Wire nuts would actually do better against those specific crimper. You know better. All that money I see in you're video and you probably have the good stake on crimper in your other truck or tool bag. I have one of those POS I keep around just to cut the 10-24 or 8-32 hardware bolts with on rare occasions. That was a nice trailer you were under by the way. So clean and you were on a slab. Must be nice. OK my break is over and I was just waiting on the JB weld to dry on the break controller case so I could mount it back up again. They designed that controller case to not have screws but to have the plastic melted like a rivet so you have to break it to open it up. I want everybody reading this to take note not just to use proper stake on crimper but also notice how I didn't come on here spreading hate when I had a suggestion on a different way of doing things. Stop the hate, raise your frequency.
i have an 03 chevy Silverado 2500hd WT. brake controller wired into fuse box in the floor. do i need to run the black wire to my 7pin connector or will the power cm from the wiring harness?
I thought that my problem was my truck or the brake controller. I followed your advice (checking wiring and adding grounds at each wheel), and my aftermarket controller now works on my 2016 Ram 1500!
Thanks for the positive feedback
@jamesclab1 !
Love the content, thanks. I just got a 7.3l Diesel that I want to tow and the previous owner removed the brake controller. I went and got one from another rig and noticed that the Ford Factory plug in the cab has Ground, Brake pedal Power but the Battery Voltage lead in the plug is dead. The Fuse is good so any idea where I could look next? Appreciate it.
Subscribed!
I found a fix for my Nissan Armada. I have a RedArc controller and it was flashing, not detecting the trailer brakes. I did the usual (disconnected and reconnected brake controller, cleaned the connectors at the back using spray etc, nothing). I got my multimeter and selected 12v DC, and switched the Armada on (engine running). Connected the black probe to the negative terminal on the 7 way connector (truck) and red to the brake controller pin (truck) and sure enough I got only 3.5 volts. So the problem was in the Nissan. I checked the fuse boxes (I have 4) and there was a couple of blown ones. I swapped the brake controller relay (it wasn't this) and FINALLY I opened the fuse box with the MPF fuses. These are little boxes with 3 fuses built in, mine was red. Took it out and bam, centre 30a fuse was blown. This was the issue. My Armada is 13 years old. So, before you go looking at trailer brake wires, blue wires etc etc, check the MPF fuses. Part number for mine was 24370. Be mindful the connectors are two horizontal and 2 vertical on the underside. Pull it out with needle nose pliers to check. Best of luck people.
So kinda running into tbe same problem except the controller will be fine for a couple minutes and will then start flashing n.c. and then maybe 10 seconds or so itll go back to reading the breaks again where u see .c and when breaks are pushed u can see the gain levels rise. Itll keep repeating that process. I thought maybe a bad ground cause i ran all new wiring around the whole trailer but used the existing power and ground coming out of the drums. Doni think grounding each break individually to the frame would fix or is this something else.. thanks in advance for any help.
thanks dude that help a lot
I have told every employee I asked to repair trailer wiring and every trailer manufacturer I considered purchasing a trailer from that the trailer frame should BE grounded, the trailer frame should not BE the ground. Trailers should be wired as if they were entirely made of plastic. ALL electricity should be running through wires, NOT steel or aluminum structure!!
Hello there. I have a U-Haul trailer ( tandom) with the Prodigy brake system. Recently went out, but two small red light are on, so I know there is power. It worked intermittently, and now it is completely out. You mentioned in this video that it could be a couple of things. One being ground and I’m not sure what the other was. I don’t believe you covered what the other possibility could be.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
sounds like a loose connection to me check all your plugs first and make sure they're aren't any loose wires ,then check trailer tail and wires on trailer for loose connections,alsocheck the truck side of the female plug sometimes the internal blades get bent and dont make a good connection.
hope this helps
Love the music bro
thanks diysolar
Subscribed! I pull trailers all over the United States - not usually the same one twice. The factory trailer brake controller is bad on my 12 Ram 5500. Should I spend $250 on a new Ram controller or install an older but never used Prodigy on it? Thanks for your channel
it really depends on you and your preference , I like the prodigy
Replacing a controller that was "custom" wired up in my 04 Superduty with installing the Tekonsha adapter to the factory plug buried behind the center kick panel (which is why the other person "customized" I bet as it is a PITA to attach). After doing this I've cut the custom plug out, but still have NC at the controller. I assumed with the old plug out of the system it would now function. Any suggestions?
Its hard to say it could be a couple different things possibly grounds are no good on trailer ,check ground connections to frame and body of trailer, also make sure grounds to brakes are good and there is 1 ground per break cylinder (if its equipped with electric trailer brakes)could be weak brake magnets 9 times out of 10 its the ground s ,if it has electric over hydraulic brakes( there only 1 or two grounds by the hydraulic brake actuator)if those are good , its more than likely a wiring issue with the truck, some of the newer trucks ive had to actually run new cable to the rear of the truck because the integrated brake controller wiring won't support an aftermarket brake controller,
and dont forget to check the plug and make sure the wiring matches the (truck to trailer) and that there are no pulled wires,
hope this helps !
@kirkcondon5996
Good Video!
thanks Mike!
Brake box gives a oL and SH code st Times. Any helpful suggestions to finding this problem.
you have broken wire/shorted wire ,probably power wire short ed to the frame
hope this helps
How much do you charge for call like that
Usually a minimum of around 200$, it depends on how far I have to drive and how long the job takes .
a good way to price it is around 100$ an hour
2$ a mile for travel
and a minimum of 1 hours you dont waste your time .
thanks for the good question and comment!
Did i blow a fuse on mine i pressed the output too fast and now the trailer brake wont connect to my trucks trailer brake system
possibly a blown fuse or bad ground
So where can I bring my car and travel trailer to fix it? Camping World installed it but won’t touch it when it’s hooked up to the trailer because it’s a 1971. Their dongle showed it working but turns out they grounded the controller to something on rubber bushings under the car.
I just had a new battery installed in my Subaru, and now the brake controller isn’t showing anything on the display anymore. When I first start the car it looks like it says oh see but it’s kind of chopped off at the top. I’m in Texas, near San Antonio currently.
look for a trailer shop or ask around at some of the horse stables, they may know of someone.
I have a 2011 silverado and I went on a trip before I Left the brake controller was working and then when I left hooked up and I had trailer lights but the controller was showing NC (prodigy) controller. So I unplugged it because it felt like the brakes were still applying
probably a ground wire is corroded nc usually comes up when there is a connection problem
How about this twist - I use same brake controller on my expedition and my titan. When I plug brake controller into expedition, trailer works great. When I plug same controller into Titan, the trailer doesn't respond. All voltage looks good at plug on Titan with controller plugged in, I checked each 7 pin for function and voltage. Trailer also works on Titan without brake controller. Where do I start, geez@@@!!! lol
Hi did you ever find the fix ?
Hi, controller stays lit , when trailer is not hooked up? Do you know why? Thanks
The brake sensing wire could be hooked up to a constant source of power ( when you step on the brakes it sends power to controller), it should sense that there is a trailer connected (NC or C) then go out after not sensing voltage.
hope this helps
I’m working on a trailer break problem. The box applies 12.5 volts and doesn’t adjust at all. Wired up wrong or a bad box?
could be wired incorrectly when the lever is pulled it should be lower voltage and proportional like 6 to 8 volts until the lever is maxed out. I've rarely seen the brake controllers go bad . let me know if I can help
Good video. With wire that chewed up. I probably rewired it
yeah these horse trailers are always screwed up and the owners aren't always willing to pay , they travel all around the country with millions of dollars worth of horses and complain about spending some money on their trailers ? I never really understood it.
@@happybleeding me either. But if something happens shortly after they want blame u and want it warranty. When I can't do things way should be I write out and make them sign a paper stating they stopping me from doing it right.
Thats a great point Chris ,
I verbally tell them but should get it in writing.
@@happybleeding yes it covers you and if something could happen cause someone get hurt you have in writing you tried do it right way they refused. Trust me you want cover yourself every which way. Are you keeping track your miles and gas and parts and tools for taxes reasons?
yeah my Wife tracks all my milage and tools and gas, was pretty difficult the first 2 years but finally figured out the taxes
Subscribed
Really?